Project What TF - Into the UPSIDEDOWN to de-rust and treat the underside. It's not all good! MGTF
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.พ. 2024
- It's a dark and dirty job, but the high level of surface corrosion needed sorting...... Join me as I get this done and find a few issues whilst I'm at it.
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Iv subscribed as i have a golf gti to send up to 250- 300 hp a zr that was my old car but iv had to save it but i want a TF in the next COMING YEAR so i will be taking in your journey
Nice video, pity about the rust but the F and TF do suffer from it, I had to change the front and rear mounts they had all corroded badly, luckily no other serious rust on the car just surface on the subframes, I cleaned them off and used chain Greece all over the place, it dry's like wax oil. I only use mine in the summer now and its garaged all year round so hopefully it wont be an issue for me. Great to see people looking after them, they will soon be a rare sight on our roads. They are much better cars than people give them credit for.
Nice video TOP
Thanks for the visit
I pulled and replaced my front subframe last autumn, I got a really good deal on a replacement front and rear, done all the front bushes and bearings and got a couple of minor holes in the front sills to deal with but getting ready to drop the rear subframe to swap it along with all bearings bushes etc is a great chance to clean and paint everything under the old bus.
If it was me pal I’d cut out the serious rust and but weld new plates in, seam it up and seal, then rust converter on the other bits and raptor liner it. Great video btw. 👍
Hi Craig good job on the rust proofing . The gaffer tape was also on mine when I did the subframes, maybe factory fitted to stop water inside ... put some back on it can't hurt . Keep the videos coming bad luck with having to do the welding but all for the good .
Il have a look at putting some back on, although not sure it will stick now?
Noooo after all this work you've got the rot!
I bought my TF last summer, got it home, and before I could drive it, failed MOT on 3 corners for rust. 4th corner was advisory so I've just got it back from some serious(ly expensive) welding work. Need to do most of the jobs you have, then get it to the MOT station. If it stops raining!
Yeah tell me about it..... not too much thankfully but I had planned MOT video for next week so that's gonna be delayed. All fun. Although still un unsure if my new 'drain hole' will pass muster.
Cracking job on this, great effort with the Dynax it’s amazing stuff I’ve used it before. Hopefully the localised rust is easily fixable mate look forward to the next!
Sorting out the welding gear today... and maybe grinding back to see how far it has spread. It'll be ok.👍
Great series. Just found it. Lovely car btw. Great colour.
That's David, I'm enjoying it... the next video will be interesting when I break out the welder.
I love that bilt hamber stuff, use it on mine. Also happen to use it on my roman re-enactment armour and the clear usually lasts at least a couple of years.
Very wide sharp wood chisel for scraping paint off calliper MG
The best obvious advice to repair the chassis is to take out the fuel tank and cut out the rusted part and patch and reweld it. The easy way out is to patch it with a steel plate and tap and use bolts or screws. Make sure to apply rust prevention and suitable sealer under the plate. I don't know how strict the British MOT is regarding this type of repair though, it may be argued that drilling holes in the chassis would potentially weaken it further.
100% agree with that's the best job, but it's also a massive job involving removing the seats and rear trim etc to get the tank out plus draining the tank.... and if your saw my last video I just put it all back in. Nightmare.
So it's staying as is at the moment, well protected from further rust.
But as you say the MOT man might have differing ideas, they are pretty strict and have a pokey thing that looks for weak points. We'll see.
Nice job, good luck with the welding. Done a few bits like that myself, just take your time getting your repair patch to fit. On the off-chance you're in Norfolk give me a shout I have a few of the little bottles of gas.
Thanks for the offer, but I'm in the Midlands so a fair trek away..... going to sort out my welding stuff today and maybe a bit of grinding to see how far it has spread.
Quick update the duck tape was put on at the factory to stop water ingress to the sub frame Mount's so if its good enough for rover it's good enough for me
Or is it just cost cutting under project drive
Frankly iam amazed at this surly a better solution could of been found 😊😊😊
My frount sub frame had two patches of duck tape covering the drain holes must be a thing that was advised by so owners club also the rear of the sills are noted as being mud traps and rott from the inside out so not unusual to see holes and patches there by the way have you seen the hammer spike that is used for an m.o.t its a scary looking thing to attack the chassis and sill with with even if the tester is a bit heavy handed he can do some serious damage still better safe than sorry 😊😊😊
Looks really good 👍 how long does that stuff last?.. isn't hammerite recommended for the underneath
Twelve months to reapply, do you mean wax oil.... that's really really messy stuff, this is so much easier.
I think Mike Satur sell a corner sill repair panel to speed things up.
Yep I have one in my basket, but trying to make one first. Also find out how far the rust goes.
I wouldnt bother..ive had 2nof these..a mgzr..a 75 all with the K series engine...its a menace.;.even if the HG is replacede theres no telling it will go again soon...i have changed to Hondas VTEC...now thats aproper engine..why bother with these rovers..they are dead now and worth redtoring..they were crap when new..and even worse now.
We don't do it because they're worth anything, nor because they're reliable.... just for the love.