my power steering line broke do to rusting and I didn't want to pay three hundred bucks for a new one so I use this method for 5/16 line and it worked just great thanks for the info buddy
I've got 6 of these under a 99 caravan with 230000 miles on it. drive it 100 miles a day, no issues. take your time and tighten each side a little at a time . nice video!
As bad as some of the brake lines are on old cars on the road, this is safer than the rusty lines out there. However, I always buy a new, flared line and run it between the two closest junctions or brake components. As you stated, flaring a line under a vehicle is difficult.
Zxceelxuz Yes, I agree. Yet, I do not have a flaring tool and I do not trust myself to properly flare a line. The lines that are pre-flared are inexpensive, so, I go that route. If I had more jobs to perform, I would buy a flaring tool and lift the vehicle.
@@joescheller6680 so many bends and turns and going through between the body and front suspension...only way is to remove the engine or, use compression fittings...all vehicles have their brake lines installed on the assembly line than, anything else...
First off, I know it is probably not legal to use compression fittings on brake lines, that being said. I had worked 40 years as a instrument tech at a power plant. We use stainless steel compression fittings all the time. Hooking up gauges and transmitters to pressures up to 5000 PSI, so nobody is going to tell me that compression fittings won't hold. Why they are not allowed on brake systems? I haven't a clue except you don't need any special tools when using compression fittings. Note, that not all fittings are the same quality, we used Parker, and Swagelok brand fittings. Take it for what it's worth.
I bought an old truck that had them and when I went to the mechanic shop they chewed my ass out lol it wasn't my fault on a 1973 GMC! But you are correct!
the stainless steel ones are much stronger than brass ones which was shown in the video and 99% of the time are used in automotive not the steel ones. because were i am brass ones cost 2.50 or buy a steel one $20.00 if your cheap enough to use one your likely going for $2.50
Just a guess but a compression seal will more likely have more of a chance of the line sliding out if not done properly. As the OP mention some compression fittings can hold a lot of pressure but the line has more likelihood to slip out vs a double flared end line. Eric the Car guy was going to use his Ford Fairmont for racing and said compression fittings in his brake line would cause him to fail his tech inspection so I guess they aren’t supposed to be used for some reason.
Auto Manufacturers don't like any kind of repair to a brake line. On the other hand... if they really gave 2 craps about your safety.... they would eat the cost of using stainless steel brake lines. But their profit margin is much more important than your safety.
Thanks for the video. I've got an old F-150 that had a brake line let go on it it's only used just a Old farm truck out in the fields and this was a cheap easy fix thanks
I did this on an '03 century, I'm not savvy in the art of auto mechanics, and you really shouldn't do this if you plan on your everyday driving vehicle, I just did it as a temporary fix to get it out of the garage . The line along the firewall and connecting to the passenger side caliper was rusted and shooting out fluid. I cut out the rusted section 2" away from the end of corrosion on each side(To avoid coupling any rust to the new line). Used a copper nickel line in place of the rusted section and used two of the fittings/couplers to hold the lines together. Also make sure that the line is secure and won't move freely. A quick way to move the vehicle if you have a one car garage and your brother has priority to park in it late afternoon.
For those that say these are not for brake lines or high pressure applications, I suggest researching a little bit and you will find that stainless steel compression fitting that look exactly the same as the brass ones are for high pressure hydraulic lines. A brake system is nothing more than a hydraulic system. Nice video, its a shame that they are illegal there, its definably a low cost quick fix that works.
... yeah cuz most people are completely INCOMPETENT and can barely feed their vehicle GAS. Just came off Scotty Kilmers channel and the same shit. NOW, IF this procedure is ILLEGAL in your state, (this can have more than one definition) ... me thinks you should do things the way they TELL YOU. These compression fittings you can purchase from your local auto let down outlet DO state the fact "NOT INTENDED FOR HIGH PRESSURE.", ... but what EXACTLY IS the definition of HIGH pressure? My fucking BLOOD. Yeah Stinky Cheese, I concur, .. far better to do your research in any case cause too many are lemmings and can NOT think for themselves.
They are illegal because you cannot verify the integrity of the remaining line. Brakes lines generally fail because of rust. If it rusted enough to have a hole... it's obviously not strong / thick enough to support a compression ring, also imperfections on the surface of the line also cause leaks and failures.
Thanks for the video. I've done this to my Durango had four years and not dead yet. I live in the swamp (DC) and they don't do inspection (only for historic registration) emissions only so I don't have worry about them being illegal. It's not what you do it's how you do it that matters. I used hydraulic 5,000 psi rated fitting.
ive use them so many times,. as long as u have a even cut, no burs left, put the seals in and tighten it down. Dont have to wrench the hell out of em either. Ive never had problems with any of the ones i put on a few of my vehicles
This may work but the failure rate is on the high side. A double flare union is much more reliable but the best solution is just to replace the entire brake line. This may be good for an emergency repair while out on the road but remove it as soon as you get home.
Compression fitting are okay for low pressure lines like a/c lines, water lines and power steering lines. But brake lines can experience several thousand psi, not just a few hundred. Over time the splice will fail, it may take a few weeks or a few years, but in time the joint will fail. I would assume several hundred dollars to do a proper repair is worth your life. Besides I believe compression fittings on brakeline are illegal in all 50 states.
Never had any problems with the compression fittings if done correctly. Doing a double flare in these conditions is almost impossible even with the best flaring tool on the market. If the double flares are done wrong on both side of the tubing it will leak and you will have to start all over again.Its better to replace the entire line with copper nickel"NiCop" and double flare at both ends.
Even if done correctly, they will leak under severe load like hard and fast braking or braking while pulling a trailer. Especially if the vehicle is rear drums and one of those braking scenarios happen with a compression fitting on the front disc branch. If you used compression fitting for a single rear drum or even for a hydraulic clutch line you might be able to get away with it. Also, when you say the job is "impossible even with best tools on market", what you really mean is that the job is impossible to do quickly and easily. Much work might be needed to replace an entire line or just a section if you want it done properly as you know. You are 100% correct about your last statement though. Nicop is great. It's far easier to work with than stainless thats for damned sure.
Grew up in The UK for most of my life. Now live in the US... I have to say not sure what part of the country it is, but upon hearing a lot of Canadians on you tube, that some Canadians have British sounding accents, Bristol, England, Gloucestershire area to be specific and Norfolk. Great video!
We call the compression ring a "Olive" when the pipes are connected you should make sure the pipes are all the way into the connector before tightening and if they are over- tightened they will leek so the tightening pressure should be just right
I’ve been working on cars and trucks as well as doing vehicle safety inspections since 1982, and I can tell you after 40 years of experience there is a reason you do not use compression fittings like this on brake lines. It is not the leaking you have to worry about, it is the sudden brake failure they will cause when they fail. And is why I would never pass any vehicle that had compression fittings like this on its brakes or gas lines. As the only proper splice is a double flares line with an AM fitting, or a splice that looks similar to that of the Master cylinder brake line attachment point. As compression fittings like that for used to splice a house hold water line will not withstand the pressures produced by hydraulic lines. And is why you do not see them on heavy equipment, air crafts or automobiles.
It's legal in some states, not others. That means it's safe in all states. Not a brass CF, but a Dorman 800-202 is good for 5k psi on 3/16 brake line, I don't know of any hyd. brake system pushing more than 2100 psi. The Dorman part is steel and I'm in the rust belt, I have a few on my trucks with hydroboost and it's been years, they're still holding pressure. I'll do a quick safe repair on my own plow trucks, but I can't pass a vehicle that I see any CF on in the brake system. Fuel on the other hand, I'll use either, never had a problem in 30 years of racing and passed NHRA tech with them on fuel systems in a 7 second 230" wb dragster.
It seems like if one hit some really rough terrain or bumps, if your suspension was shotty; theoretically could cause the fitting to seperate idk.. But not everybody can run a whole new line or has access to that one tool that puts a push fitting flare on steel line
not all compression fittings are created equal If you take a high quality fitting as SWAGELOK ( or similar design ) and you follow EXACTLY the assembling fitting, the steel line will burst much before the fitting the problem is that the generic brass fitting is not designed to take the punishment of a brake pressure burst on a panic stop of an heavy car equipped with an hydraboost or a powerfull vacuum power brake booster.
That type of compression fitting is designed for water lines, not high pressure hydraulic lines. They are not legal anywhere in the US, even though some people choose to use them anyway.
I was thinking exactly the same thing! I installed a water filter copper line for the refrigerator ice maker for the first time using these things about 24 years ago. I didn't know what they were called back then. Seriously, there are good ways to save money on car repairs. This is not a good one.
That's funny because a big brand auto parts store in the US just sold me this and it's labelled as a break line repair kit, I'm using it for a fuel line though.
@@ghost2coast296 You might have bought one from a big brand name store but I will guarantee you that a brass compression fitting like you would use on a water line is not acceptable for brake line repairs I don't care what they say. If it is truly for brake line repairs it is a high pressure compression fitting that is probably steel and costs around $12 ea.
PLEASE keep in mind that the power brakes push a LOT of pressure. In order for compression fittings not to slip off under this pressure, you have to tighten them extremely tight, which actually slightly dents the pipe itself with the sleeve that you put on, preventing any slippage.
A Dorman P/N 800-202 steel CF for 3/16 line is rated at 5k PSI. I wouldn't use brass, but I've used the Dorman or comparable steel ones for years with no failures. They won't pass a state inspection if they're discovered, but they do work, and very well. I live in the rust belt and the line that goes front to back along the pinch weld usually takes a crap and this is a very safe and cheap alternative to trying to get rusty fittings out of ABS modules, calipers, prop valves and flaring a whole new line. Brake pressure will rarely exceed 1600 PSI and the 5000PSI rating on the steel fitting is nearly a 3:1 safety factor, I'm good with that. Once a steel CF is on both sides of a line, a truck will not be able to pull it apart, the flared end and fitting will fail first. There's a fella on YT that actually did just that and the flared ends were the weakest link at that point. Steel CF is all I'll use, nothing else for a brake line.
@@gardnetbush9768 Not the 800-202, they're steel. They have a disclaimer about using them on hyd. systems on the website, but lawyers don't wrench, they protect companies from litigation so that's why it's there. I've never had a problem with them.
A guy in a Ford completely destroyed my wife's car and sent her to the hospital with 9 breaks and a punctured lung. Insurance company found compression fittings on his truck and they gave out, causing the accident. The police filed charges against him over it when my insurance company contacted them about what they found. I know a compression fitting is helpful, especially for people who may have a tight budget, but a coil of brake line can be purchased for practically nothing now, and Advancedautoparts/other car parts stores have loaner tools/kits. Advancedautoparts gives you 45 days for loaner tools and its completely free. All you have to do is pay for the tool as a deposit and they give you all of your money back when you return the tools. A brake line bending tool is like $18 on Amazon then just return it.
Never use compression fittings, use flare fitting unions. When in a hard or panick stop the compression fittings can fail.Typical brake line pressures during a stop range from less than 800 psi under "normal" conditions, to as much as 2000 psi in a maximum effort. Take this from a retired truck and heavy equipment mechanic with a New York State Inspectors license. 50+ years experience.
Ughhh! This is why I do brake lines myself. Compression fittings can fail if you have to mash the brakes in an emergency. Just take the extra 20-30 minutes to do a double flare people. It's not hard to do once you learn how to use the flaring tool. And it's peace of mind knowing they won't fail in an emergency stop.
Was gonna say this myself. Never use a compression fitting on brake lines. They can be used on all other metal lines, fuel etc. Not brakes. Use a double flare union if you need to join lines.
I've often wondered why these are illegal in most states and provinces. Presumably the technique is prone to sudden, abrupt failure. I guess I can understand why, especially if the procedure is done incorrectly. It's hard to be certain the pipe was slid in far enough without accidentally backing out. Then the high intermittent pressure of a brake hydraulic causes it to suddenly fail during critical braking, maybe happening months or years after the repair. Then the law draws it's focus back on the mechanic. Compression fitting seem to work fine for water systems, but I would never use them for brakes....
I do hear what you are saying, Steve. However for rare adverse events, personal experience falls down as not being sensitive enough. Suppose the failure rate is 1/10,000. That means an average technician would almost never see it happen. But the guy who does may face criminal investigation, with no support from the legal system. It's what happened to General Motors and their ignition system fiasco. I would not want to face an angry family with their team of lawyers from such an indefensible position.
Steve Rob Why is the fact that he's (Scotty Kilmers) "used them for years and never had a failure" proof that they are they right way to do it and that the other way lacks common sense (as you implied)? If he used duck tape with the same supposed track record, would you also agree that that is the "right way"? How do you even know that, assuming he's telling the truth, the reason why he has never witness one fail was because a customer has never returned to him with a failed line? Any fitting has a chance of failure; the point of compression fittings being illegal in high pressure applications such as brake lines is that their chance of failure there is MUCH HIGHER than a double flare technique when both are done properly. This is especially true when we take the time factor into consideration, as the fitting ages. That doesn't mean that compression fittings will always fail, or even fail at an apparently high rate, but when it comes to your safety and that of your family you'll always want that higher factor of protection, especially if it just means putting in the extra ten minutes that it takes to build a proper flare, or even better, not using unions in your brake lines! Lawyers didn't just dream of these laws to make up liability claims; they were put together with input from engineers and trained experienced professionals that understand the mechanics involved in these devices to save lives. Thinking we just simply know better because we've seen it work is downright arrogant and ignorant. And you should be glad that these laws are in place, because if someone ever hurts anyone close to you and it turns out it was because they cut corners, you'll want them to pay for the rest of their lives. Lastly, I find it hypocritical and bewildering that we belittle safety and liability laws in our own countries (USA, Canada, etc.) and yet frown in distaste at the terrible quality products output by developing countries without such regulations. The next time you turn town a cheap Chinese product over a "Made in the USA" one for safety concerns, you should realize that you turned it down for exactly these reasons: cutting corners and disregard of safety regulations in production. Edit: Thank you backyardmech for putting in the hard work and demonstrating the technique. Demonstrating is not the same as advocating its use and knowledge is always the most important.
Andrew G I have used these in cars for almost 40 years, including cars that i have raced at the drag strip at high speeds, I have NEVER had a problem. The problems arise when somebody installs one that doesn't know what they are doing. The ironic thing is, I have rarely used one on anything but brake lines. They are prone to failure just like anything else, but I would not lose sleep over having one on my vehicle that was installed by a professional mechanic.
You would never have one installed by a professional mechanic today. There is no reason to do it, legality issues aside. If you need a disconnect in the line then use a union, otherwise a straight run. It is a less reliable connection no matter how great the installer thinks he or she is. Gamble on something less important like how long you cook oatmeal, not car brakes.
great video these fittings work great on power steering lines too. also people that are looking down on these should ask themselves why the line broke in the first place the whole line could be rusted out and might have to be changed, changing a small section then blaming the fitting if the line breaks is nonsense the break will most likely be on a rusted section of pipe. if the fitting wasn't tightened properly you'd see it right away. ive used them on my old cars and they out lasted the car everytime
im not a mechanic but always follow the line up and make sure there not rusted for my car but i usually replace them this is only a temporary fix untill you can get the whole lines ect replaced if your broke down or just dont have the money untill payday i like unions and like i said all the cars ive ever owned the lines rusted before anything went wrong with the union. a certified mechanic would just replace the lines or its what he should do when working on someones car.
If you upgrade all the lines to 1/2" pex, the fluid flows better and allows for better braking. Not to mention you can mix it up with red, blue, white and or clear tube. I hear the colors add a few hp. 🙃🤥
Some good points made below by Spelunkerd, Steve Rob, and Bg147. Growing up in the 80's, my buddies & I used these on our old cars and never had any problems. We also didn't have the money to take our junkers to a mechanic ! Now they're illegal here; in my opinion, another example of laws being made by people that don't have to worry about saving money.
The compression fitting isn't allowed on brake lines because they are prone to sudden failure. They are a lot more susceptible to failure from pressure differentials and vibrations. It's silly to use compression fittings when it takes 30 seconds to make your own flare or you buy premade lines.
covington race Here in Ontario, Canada, they are entirely illegal for brake line use. They simply aren't designed for the much higher pressures brake fluid is put under. I wouldn't understand why the UK mot would allow it, there's a reason no manufacture makes brake lines that way.
Zxceelxuz I read it wrong they are no appropriate, modifications are not allowed unless appropriate fittings are used, ferrule ones not being appropriate
the problem with a slip style sleeve type fitting is in semi flexible pressure lines . unless the line is clamped to a non moving area. the hose may push apart /___reverse outward pressure____\ but, if using a flare type connection. done properly will not separate like a slip style will
For high pressure brake line I prefer flaring, but if I can't I would use a stronger white steel compressing fittings than the compression fitting you are using. Someone in TH-cam made video comparing compression fittings.
the cheapest chinese brass compression fittings work fine. have done it for years. lasts forever on rear brakes. on fronts eventually it will blow out, but thats because front brakes use higher volume of fluid, probably higher pressure too. but they will get you home or last until payday when you can replace the line. rear brakes the fitting will outlast the car..guaranteed! i live in michigan where cars rust bad, it always works. sae says dont do it ever but it works. just make sure you tighten very good and test by firmly stomping on the brakes in an area where you wont hit someone before tr4usting it to be as good as new.
I wouldnt run these on front brakes, or even brake systems with calipers but in my opinion these are perfectly fine for rear drums. Really not that much pressure
Thanks for showing me exactly how it's supposed to go cuz I've been flaring and putting those fittings on and it won't even screw on that's why thanks man
Thank you for showing hoe to use them .. not a many straight forward videos like this in 2024..... everyone's all about that bs safety stuff. And all I need is for the line to not leak lol
In half the comments people say they have used these with no problems, the other half say its dangerous and illegal. I read through probably a couple hundred comments on this and not a single person said they had these fail on them or someone they know.. all they say is its illegal. So its interesting. How many people actually had a bad experience with these?
I’ll probably use one of these on my brake lines. Thankfully, Michigan doesn’t give a shit about inspections. Although I suspect it’s because half the cars would be illegal if they tried to institute something like what the other states have
Yesterday i spent a whole day getting bad flares on my original line lexus line with no succes. So today i will be doing it with a steel compression fitting instead.
Sometimes things are a set up for more money for other's pockets. Like cars and parts. Well, I can't find a clutch slave assembly that you assemble yourself. I need to replace it and its all one unit. No nut to take off the reservoir from the line or at the other end to take off the slave from the line. There is no way to get the master cylinder reservoir mounted to the engine bay then thread the line and connect it to the clutch slave that mounts to the bell housing. There is no room... So... I will cut the line at the tube and add this compression sleeves and nuts. Thank you!
@@dflex4180 in the UK you would fail an MOT (annual safety test) if you use these compression joints. So I wouldn't argue it's done correctly. Haha, as typing the guy says they are illegal where he lives. They are banned in many places as they can blow off if they loosen. Flared pipes will never do this. Just flare them and do it properly.
I believe Dorman sells a 5000psi rated compression unuon. Its like $13 I think. I'd say if you're gonna do this get that. Just to be on the safe side. Front brakes do most of the braking. Pressure in front might be higher than in rear. Don't quote me though.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge - great video! I wish I had the skills, garage and tools to accomplish this feat and many other D-I-Y projects. I just had a brake line puncture in my 2005 GMC Sierra 1500: brake fluid would disperse inside the engine compartment as if it was a garden hose mister whenever I hit the brake pedal. I didn't drive the truck after the instant I noticed my brake pedal was hitting the floorboard: I got on to the repair job as soon as I could within two-(2) weeks. I didn't drive the truck until I drove to a local auto repair shop. If you were told by a auto repair shop "we have to replace two brake lines; the first the brake line that had the puncture and the second line because it comes off as a pair from the master cylinder" - How much do you think the cost of repair with labor cost? I know from watching your video this is exactly the method and parts the auto shop performed on my truck. I am not happy with the "cost of repair' when the total cost of parts was ~ $20.00. During the "Work Authorization Telephone Conversation" I was told that they need to install two new brake lines; however, in fact they only did a "6 to 8 inch patch-job" on my brake line. They charged me approximately $550.00 - I asked for a oil change too. They also repaired my radio antenna [reception is marginal, but that may be a geographical problem] with my parts. I was upset because I was expecting two-(2) new "contiguous" brake lines, but instead I got a "coupler". I have to return to the shop because the bill is unsettled and they are diagnosing the 1997 Monte Carlo LS "ABS" the "Anti-Lock Brake Light" is always on and there may be a sensor problem. My main concern is that my truck is safe to drive? Will these compression fittings eventually loosen due to road vibration etc ? I used the shop's own words back onto them that they placed onto me during the "Work Authorization Telephone Conversation" - they countered that they could install two new "contiguous" brake lines: I left the shop yesterday [Monday, June 15, 2020] that I will give them my decision when I return for the Monte Carlo LS. Do I stay with their "patch job" or do I have them install two new brake lines? Cost? What would be a fair price in Northwest Florida?
@@superjojo555 No, I did not take the two new brake lines because they would have charged me for another brake job! I will never return to "Holmes Auto Repair"! I don't drive a lot and as of today to the best of my knowledge the fittings are holding up.
@@PappyNet01 Go to the AG office and tell them about the repair. What they used was illegal in Fla. shops cannot install these. Get your money back through the AG or tell the shop you're going to the AG.
@@genefogarty5395 How can it be illegal in Florida? Florida does not have the annual auto safety inspections and I am glad we don't because both New Jersey and Virginia robbed me for nearly 30-years!
@@PappyNet01 Yet you got robbed by a Florida repair shop. Have the line replaced and stop being cheap. Deal with a shop that has the sense to do the job right and pay for it once. They are not DOT approved and if you kill someone in an accident, you've just lost everything you have. Cheers!
In some states this is illegal where you need state inspection stickers. This is NOT what you do to brake lines! Double flare and a connecting union ONLY!! Or you will blow this mess apart and lose your brakes.
thanks for the vid. what if the problem area is on a bend in the line? working on tranny cooler line and it's pissin out right where a bend is. do they got angled compression fittintgs?
Been using the in-line flaring tool for a while now. Great for tight spaces and flares always come out perfect compared to the cheap bar style tool. If you have to use compression I'd only consider it a band-aid until a proper repair can be made. But really, it takes an extra 5 min to make a proper flared connection so why bother.
I'm a plumber n I wouldn't use compression on my brakes they leak all the time and water has about an avg. of 80psi. brakes require more.. u can fix a leak u can't a mangled body.!!!! one time Deal .
Now you do know they make high compression fittings with a 5000 psi rating for hydraulics? The fittings designed for plumbing have a much less rating. Most toilets and sinks are hooked up with a compression fitting and that is code in most places.
@@kschreihart www.dormanproducts.com/p-65695-800-202.aspx Dorman offers a comprehensive line of Compression Fittings for almost any automotive repair job. All our Compression Fittings are constructed of high-quality materials for long-lasting durability. Not recommended for hydraulic brake systems. this is right off the web site not for brake even if it is 5000 psi rating
They are illegal in NYS. Aside from that, if you ever take it apart for any reason you could NEVER reuse compressed ferrules. Even in home plumbing. So you must cut a new line and make a patch.
The proper way to join brake lines is to double flare each end and use a brake UNION. Not a compression fitting! Compression fittings can crush the brake line especially the smaller sizes like 3/16. Do the job right instead of doing a rig job on something as important as brakes.
so easer said, I have a line that goes through a fender well across the firewall behind the motor and would almost have to pull the motor to get to the line and get it out just to fix 2 inch end that hooks to the flex line
A flaring tool is not that hard to use I paid around £20 years ago and found replacing sections of pipes a real pain I found it fare better to replace complete length with new good quality copper break line its easier to bend to shape and wont rust.
This type of compression fitting is what is used on my Light Sport Aircraft. When used with plastic brake lines do NOT over tighten! That causes the brake line to be cut! I just had my airplane in the shop for some service and one of the shop workers did me a favor and tightened the compression fittings. All of the brake fluid drained out of the system within a couple of hours. Down to the last drop. So, now, I get to replace the compression fittings. i don't know if this is a problem with metal lines.
CAUTION YALL. Everything I've read on brake lines says DO NOT USE COMPRESSION FITTINGS. I guess cause the high psi going thru your brake lines. I also read it in the Chilton, and I trust the Chilton far more than a you tube video.
The irony of this video starting with him saying they're not legal for brakes where he's from is almost too much nonetheless let's show everyone how great they are should tell you what you need to know..
Hey urgent question, do you suggest any type of sealant for extra piece of mind or is it totally unnecessary? Like teflon tape or maybe RTV silicone on those little rings? This is from the top of my head, im not sure what's brake fluid resistant.
im a new car owner got my brothers 88 Caprice off him, need to change the brake line... This video definitely helps. you're awesome! Any car tips for a new driver I could get from you?
this is okay if it's a tractor, atv, etc, any vehicle that does not leave your property and driven on public roads. in canada and most states in the usa this is illegal on any street vehicle
Sir you should really take this down as it's bad advice. Compression fittings should never be used for brake lines, period. These will fail eventually. Flaring is the only acceptable way to repair brake lines.
i BELIEVE THEIR NOR LEGAL ON CARS ANY WHERE. Because their not a flared fitting that is high compression. I'd say you use a compression fitting on a fueoil furnace?
Wierd that these are illegal. For a brass fittings maybe but a steel equivalent should be allowed. On my vehicle the same concept is done by factory on the rear brake drum cilinder. It's also a compression fitting with compression O ring to make the connection. So having a double compression fitting fitted somewhere on the brake line shouldn't be a issue as long the bad part of the line is removed and the rest is still in good condition.
When I was a little kid, dad did the compression fitting fix. We had a terrible wreck when it blew out. TERRIBLE IDEA. He was a well seasoned millwright. He thought it to be a good fix.
Don't ever use those cheap water line compression fittings: the sleeves don't exactly crush, but they always rock over a bit, creating a weak point. Heck, I don't like using them on water lines unless I have to. Get a parker or swagelok fitting, which will have the sleeve stay square in the bore and not only that... hold pressure.
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my power steering line broke do to rusting and I didn't want to pay three hundred bucks for a new one so I use this method for 5/16 line and it worked just great thanks for the info buddy
I've got 6 of these under a 99 caravan with 230000 miles on it. drive it 100 miles a day, no issues. take your time and tighten each side a little at a time . nice video!
I'm the Backwoods Mechanic , you're tge Backyard Mech . Good video dude
As bad as some of the brake lines are on old cars on the road, this is safer than the rusty lines out there. However, I always buy a new, flared line and run it between the two closest junctions or brake components. As you stated, flaring a line under a vehicle is difficult.
Then lift it up.
Zxceelxuz
Yes, I agree. Yet, I do not have a flaring tool and I do not trust myself to properly flare a line. The lines that are pre-flared are inexpensive, so, I go that route. If I had more jobs to perform, I would buy a flaring tool and lift the vehicle.
easier said cant even see the line behind the fender well goes back along firewall impossible to get to without pulling motor
@@joescheller6680 Just go around it and put a new break line. You don't have to pull the motor.😊
@@joescheller6680 so many bends and turns and going through between the body and front suspension...only way is to remove the engine or, use compression fittings...all vehicles have their brake lines installed on the assembly line than, anything else...
First off, I know it is probably not legal to use compression fittings on brake lines, that being said. I had worked 40 years as a instrument tech at a power plant. We use stainless steel compression fittings all the time. Hooking up gauges and transmitters to pressures up to 5000 PSI, so nobody is going to tell me that compression fittings won't hold. Why they are not allowed on brake systems? I haven't a clue except you don't need any special tools when using compression fittings. Note, that not all fittings are the same quality, we used Parker, and Swagelok brand fittings. Take it for what it's worth.
I bought an old truck that had them and when I went to the mechanic shop they chewed my ass out lol it wasn't my fault on a 1973 GMC! But you are correct!
the stainless steel ones are much stronger than brass ones which was shown in the video and 99% of the time are used in automotive not the steel ones. because were i am brass ones cost 2.50 or buy a steel one $20.00 if your cheap enough to use one your likely going for $2.50
Legal in some states, not brass though, steel.
Just a guess but a compression seal will more likely have more of a chance of the line sliding out if not done properly. As the OP mention some compression fittings can hold a lot of pressure but the line has more likelihood to slip out vs a double flared end line. Eric the Car guy was going to use his Ford Fairmont for racing and said compression fittings in his brake line would cause him to fail his tech inspection so I guess they aren’t supposed to be used for some reason.
We use swagelok at the chemical company as well
Auto Manufacturers don't like any kind of repair to a brake line. On the other hand... if they really gave 2 craps about your safety.... they would eat the cost of using stainless steel brake lines. But their profit margin is much more important than your safety.
Then buy cars that have steel brake lines? Don't like what someone's sellin, don't buy it haha.
Blame congress: CAFE standards make weight a premium concern, or else...
All true, and at the same time, it's never a good idea to use these things as a permanent brake line repair like this simpleton.
@@the.reel.mccoy. STFU
@@Doomzdayxx who said it was permanent? and many mechanics use this method...look at AA1 videos..
Thanks for the video. I've got an old F-150 that had a brake line let go on it it's only used just a Old farm truck out in the fields and this was a cheap easy fix thanks
I did this on an '03 century, I'm not savvy in the art of auto mechanics, and you really shouldn't do this if you plan on your everyday driving vehicle, I just did it as a temporary fix to get it out of the garage . The line along the firewall and connecting to the passenger side caliper was rusted and shooting out fluid. I cut out the rusted section 2" away from the end of corrosion on each side(To avoid coupling any rust to the new line). Used a copper nickel line in place of the rusted section and used two of the fittings/couplers to hold the lines together. Also make sure that the line is secure and won't move freely. A quick way to move the vehicle if you have a one car garage and your brother has priority to park in it late afternoon.
For those that say these are not for brake lines or high pressure applications, I suggest researching a little bit and you will find that stainless steel compression fitting that look exactly the same as the brass ones are for high pressure hydraulic lines. A brake system is nothing more than a hydraulic system. Nice video, its a shame that they are illegal there, its definably a low cost quick fix that works.
I suggest researching a bit more and you will find that the staggering majority advise of both DIYers and professionals is DON'T DO IT.
... yeah cuz most people are completely INCOMPETENT and can barely feed their vehicle GAS. Just came off Scotty Kilmers channel and the same shit. NOW, IF this procedure is ILLEGAL in your state, (this can have more than one definition) ... me thinks you should do things the way they TELL YOU. These compression fittings you can purchase from your local auto let down outlet DO state the fact "NOT INTENDED FOR HIGH PRESSURE.", ... but what EXACTLY IS the definition of HIGH pressure? My fucking BLOOD. Yeah Stinky Cheese, I concur, .. far better to do your research in any case cause too many are lemmings and can NOT think for themselves.
They are illegal because you cannot verify the integrity of the remaining line. Brakes lines generally fail because of rust. If it rusted enough to have a hole... it's obviously not strong / thick enough to support a compression ring, also imperfections on the surface of the line also cause leaks and failures.
Thanks for the video. I've done this to my Durango had four years and not dead yet. I live in the swamp (DC) and they don't do inspection (only for historic registration) emissions only so I don't have worry about them being illegal. It's not what you do it's how you do it that matters. I used hydraulic 5,000 psi rated fitting.
not a good idea to on brake lines for autos on public roads.
Man I like how you work some folks will halfway show you how to get the job done thanks 100
Been doing it for years on many different cars and have never had a failure.
If they do vehicle inspections in your area it should have at least failed that.
ive use them so many times,. as long as u have a even cut, no burs left, put the seals in and tighten it down. Dont have to wrench the hell out of em either. Ive never had problems with any of the ones i put on a few of my vehicles
Oh cool, you've defied the laws of physics. For us normal humans though, compression fittings are a terrible idea for a permanent brake line repair.
This may work but the failure rate is on the high side. A double flare union is much more reliable but the best solution is just to replace the entire brake line. This may be good for an emergency repair while out on the road but remove it as soon as you get home.
Yeah, it literally say "not for brake lines" on the package.
@@bill7774Brass compression fittings are rated for what..1-2k psi? No brake system puts out that kind of force
@@blitzcourt5021 I have used them many times. That's just what it says on the package.
Good idea. As you said sometimes it's a bear to get a flare tool in certain spots under the car to attach the existing line you're tapping into. .
Thank you so much. My fuel line broke in mt sterling Kentucky and this video saved me
How to repair broken fuel line to csrb
Sean Murphy Mt. Sterling is in the middle of nowhere. I'm from northern Kentucky and I like it down there.
for the same amount of time and money , put a flared fitting,,,,,,,,,,But , if your brake line is rusted,,,,,replace it all
Thanks for the advice. This application is still useful in the year 2024.
Yeah I’m here too. Couldn’t find this information elsewhere
@@justinill2705 I just got my ford expedition going. I might use it for a temp solution but at least I’m rolling!
bless you Sir, you just saved me so much time, trouble, money and headache. i really appreciate you and your knowledge.
Compression fitting are okay for low pressure lines like a/c lines, water lines and power steering lines. But brake lines can experience several thousand psi, not just a few hundred. Over time the splice will fail, it may take a few weeks or a few years, but in time the joint will fail. I would assume several hundred dollars to do a proper repair is worth your life. Besides I believe compression fittings on brakeline are illegal in all 50 states.
Yup,compression on brakes is illegal in all 50
Only on commercial vehicles.Automotive stores sell these all day, every day in packages that specifically say for brake lines.
Never had any problems with the compression fittings if done correctly. Doing a double flare in these conditions is almost impossible even with the best flaring tool on the market. If the double flares are done wrong on both side of the tubing it will leak and you will have to start all over again.Its better to replace the entire line with copper nickel"NiCop" and double flare at both ends.
Even if done correctly, they will leak under severe load like hard and fast braking or braking while pulling a trailer. Especially if the vehicle is rear drums and one of those braking scenarios happen with a compression fitting on the front disc branch. If you used compression fitting for a single rear drum or even for a hydraulic clutch line you might be able to get away with it.
Also, when you say the job is "impossible even with best tools on market", what you really mean is that the job is impossible to do quickly and easily. Much work might be needed to replace an entire line or just a section if you want it done properly as you know.
You are 100% correct about your last statement though. Nicop is great. It's far easier to work with than stainless thats for damned sure.
Grew up in The UK for most of my life. Now live in the US... I have to say not sure what part of the country it is, but upon hearing a lot of Canadians on you tube, that some Canadians have British sounding accents, Bristol, England, Gloucestershire area to be specific and Norfolk. Great video!
Thank you for the very detailed video and info! It's crystal clear now.
They are (now) illegal in my state. I just had to remove two of them to pass inspection.
We call the compression ring a "Olive" when the pipes are connected you should make sure the pipes are all the way into the connector before tightening and if they are over- tightened they will leek so the tightening pressure should be just right
Could you elaborate on what's to too tight. I'm bout to do this with a fuel line and dont want to over tighten
Like to know myself on steel and composite fuel lines same sitch. Best i have found out is hand tight plus a full half turn but dont quote me.
I’ve been working on cars and trucks as well as doing vehicle safety inspections since 1982, and I can tell you after 40 years of experience there is a reason you do not use compression fittings like this on brake lines. It is not the leaking you have to worry about, it is the sudden brake failure they will cause when they fail. And is why I would never pass any vehicle that had compression fittings like this on its brakes or gas lines. As the only proper splice is a double flares line with an AM fitting, or a splice that looks similar to that of the Master cylinder brake line attachment point. As compression fittings like that for used to splice a house hold water line will not withstand the pressures produced by hydraulic lines. And is why you do not see them on heavy equipment, air crafts or automobiles.
It's legal in some states, not others. That means it's safe in all states. Not a brass CF, but a Dorman 800-202 is good for 5k psi on 3/16 brake line, I don't know of any hyd. brake system pushing more than 2100 psi. The Dorman part is steel and I'm in the rust belt, I have a few on my trucks with hydroboost and it's been years, they're still holding pressure. I'll do a quick safe repair on my own plow trucks, but I can't pass a vehicle that I see any CF on in the brake system. Fuel on the other hand, I'll use either, never had a problem in 30 years of racing and passed NHRA tech with them on fuel systems in a 7 second 230" wb dragster.
Even fuel injected?
It seems like if one hit some really rough terrain or bumps, if your suspension was shotty; theoretically could cause the fitting to seperate idk..
But not everybody can run a whole new line or has access to that one tool that puts a push fitting flare on steel line
not all compression fittings are created equal
If you take a high quality fitting as SWAGELOK ( or similar design ) and you follow EXACTLY the assembling fitting, the steel line will burst much before the fitting
the problem is that the generic brass fitting is not designed to take the punishment of a brake pressure burst on a panic stop of an heavy car equipped with an hydraboost or a powerfull vacuum power brake booster.
Those will still leak. Line replacement or flared unions are the only legitimate fix.
That type of compression fitting is designed for water lines, not high pressure hydraulic lines. They are not legal anywhere in the US, even though some people choose to use them anyway.
I was thinking exactly the same thing! I installed a water filter copper line for the refrigerator ice maker for the first time using these things about 24 years ago. I didn't know what they were called back then. Seriously, there are good ways to save money on car repairs. This is not a good one.
That's funny because a big brand auto parts store in the US just sold me this and it's labelled as a break line repair kit, I'm using it for a fuel line though.
@@ghost2coast296 You might have bought one from a big brand name store but I will guarantee you that a brass compression fitting like you would use on a water line is not acceptable for brake line repairs I don't care what they say. If it is truly for brake line repairs it is a high pressure compression fitting that is probably steel and costs around $12 ea.
i went to napa auto parts store and asked for brake line compression union, guy looked it up in the computer and they had it in stock
if you have to use these get the all steel ones that can handle higher pressure.....these brass ones cant handle it.
PLEASE keep in mind that the power brakes push a LOT of pressure. In order for compression fittings not to slip off under this pressure, you have to tighten them extremely tight, which actually slightly dents the pipe itself with the sleeve that you put on, preventing any slippage.
A Dorman P/N 800-202 steel CF for 3/16 line is rated at 5k PSI. I wouldn't use brass, but I've used the Dorman or comparable steel ones for years with no failures. They won't pass a state inspection if they're discovered, but they do work, and very well. I live in the rust belt and the line that goes front to back along the pinch weld usually takes a crap and this is a very safe and cheap alternative to trying to get rusty fittings out of ABS modules, calipers, prop valves and flaring a whole new line. Brake pressure will rarely exceed 1600 PSI and the 5000PSI rating on the steel fitting is nearly a 3:1 safety factor, I'm good with that. Once a steel CF is on both sides of a line, a truck will not be able to pull it apart, the flared end and fitting will fail first. There's a fella on YT that actually did just that and the flared ends were the weakest link at that point. Steel CF is all I'll use, nothing else for a brake line.
And use a drop or two of ATF on the ferrule and threads, prevents galling and just makes it all work better for some reason.
Agreed, brake fluid can soften brass.
@@genefogarty5395Dorman are brass too
@@gardnetbush9768 Not the 800-202, they're steel. They have a disclaimer about using them on hyd. systems on the website, but lawyers don't wrench, they protect companies from litigation so that's why it's there. I've never had a problem with them.
Thank you so much for this , needed to know a cheap way to fix a broke brake line on my derby car
A guy in a Ford completely destroyed my wife's car and sent her to the hospital with 9 breaks and a punctured lung. Insurance company found compression fittings on his truck and they gave out, causing the accident. The police filed charges against him over it when my insurance company contacted them about what they found.
I know a compression fitting is helpful, especially for people who may have a tight budget, but a coil of brake line can be purchased for practically nothing now, and Advancedautoparts/other car parts stores have loaner tools/kits. Advancedautoparts gives you 45 days for loaner tools and its completely free. All you have to do is pay for the tool as a deposit and they give you all of your money back when you return the tools. A brake line bending tool is like $18 on Amazon then just return it.
Never use compression fittings, use flare fitting unions. When in a hard or panick stop the compression fittings can fail.Typical brake line pressures during a stop range from less than 800 psi under "normal" conditions, to as much as 2000 psi in a maximum effort. Take this from a retired truck and heavy equipment mechanic with a New York State Inspectors license. 50+ years experience.
Ughhh! This is why I do brake lines myself. Compression fittings can fail if you have to mash the brakes in an emergency. Just take the extra 20-30 minutes to do a double flare people. It's not hard to do once you learn how to use the flaring tool. And it's peace of mind knowing they won't fail in an emergency stop.
Remember the person who posted this must have some hay that is not in the loft...aka. Well you know..
Geo Man, 100% true.
Was gonna say this myself. Never use a compression fitting on brake lines. They can be used on all other metal lines, fuel etc. Not brakes. Use a double flare union if you need to join lines.
I've often wondered why these are illegal in most states and provinces. Presumably the technique is prone to sudden, abrupt failure. I guess I can understand why, especially if the procedure is done incorrectly. It's hard to be certain the pipe was slid in far enough without accidentally backing out. Then the high intermittent pressure of a brake hydraulic causes it to suddenly fail during critical braking, maybe happening months or years after the repair. Then the law draws it's focus back on the mechanic. Compression fitting seem to work fine for water systems, but I would never use them for brakes....
I do hear what you are saying, Steve. However for rare adverse events, personal experience falls down as not being sensitive enough. Suppose the failure rate is 1/10,000. That means an average technician would almost never see it happen. But the guy who does may face criminal investigation, with no support from the legal system. It's what happened to General Motors and their ignition system fiasco. I would not want to face an angry family with their team of lawyers from such an indefensible position.
Steve Rob Why is the fact that he's (Scotty Kilmers) "used them for years and never had a failure" proof that they are they right way to do it and that the other way lacks common sense (as you implied)? If he used duck tape with the same supposed track record, would you also agree that that is the "right way"? How do you even know that, assuming he's telling the truth, the reason why he has never witness one fail was because a customer has never returned to him with a failed line?
Any fitting has a chance of failure; the point of compression fittings being illegal in high pressure applications such as brake lines is that their chance of failure there is MUCH HIGHER than a double flare technique when both are done properly. This is especially true when we take the time factor into consideration, as the fitting ages. That doesn't mean that compression fittings will always fail, or even fail at an apparently high rate, but when it comes to your safety and that of your family you'll always want that higher factor of protection, especially if it just means putting in the extra ten minutes that it takes to build a proper flare, or even better, not using unions in your brake lines!
Lawyers didn't just dream of these laws to make up liability claims; they were put together with input from engineers and trained experienced professionals that understand the mechanics involved in these devices to save lives. Thinking we just simply know better because we've seen it work is downright arrogant and ignorant. And you should be glad that these laws are in place, because if someone ever hurts anyone close to you and it turns out it was because they cut corners, you'll want them to pay for the rest of their lives.
Lastly, I find it hypocritical and bewildering that we belittle safety and liability laws in our own countries (USA, Canada, etc.) and yet frown in distaste at the terrible quality products output by developing countries without such regulations. The next time you turn town a cheap Chinese product over a "Made in the USA" one for safety concerns, you should realize that you turned it down for exactly these reasons: cutting corners and disregard of safety regulations in production.
Edit: Thank you backyardmech for putting in the hard work and demonstrating the technique. Demonstrating is not the same as advocating its use and knowledge is always the most important.
taledarkside do you have a link? I'm curious to check out the technology and pressure rating, etc. Thanks for the info.
Andrew G I have used these in cars for almost 40 years, including cars that i have raced at the drag strip at high speeds, I have NEVER had a problem. The problems arise when somebody installs one that doesn't know what they are doing. The ironic thing is, I have rarely used one on anything but brake lines. They are prone to failure just like anything else, but I would not lose sleep over having one on my vehicle that was installed by a professional mechanic.
You would never have one installed by a professional mechanic today. There is no reason to do it, legality issues aside. If you need a disconnect in the line then use a union, otherwise a straight run.
It is a less reliable connection no matter how great the installer thinks he or she is. Gamble on something less important like how long you cook oatmeal, not car brakes.
great video these fittings work great on power steering lines too. also people that are looking down on these should ask themselves why the line broke in the first place the whole line could be rusted out and might have to be changed, changing a small section then blaming the fitting if the line breaks is nonsense the break will most likely be on a rusted section of pipe. if the fitting wasn't tightened properly you'd see it right away. ive used them on my old cars and they out lasted the car everytime
+1 for rusted lines are even more dangerous
-1 for not taking a little more time to change the whole line
right?
im not a mechanic but always follow the line up and make sure there not rusted for my car but i usually replace them this is only a temporary fix untill you can get the whole lines ect replaced if your broke down or just dont have the money untill payday i like unions and like i said all the cars ive ever owned the lines rusted before anything went wrong with the union. a certified mechanic would just replace the lines or its what he should do when working on someones car.
When tightening the fitting, how tight do you wanna go?
I use pex tubing and sharkbite fittings on my brake lines.
If you upgrade all the lines to 1/2" pex, the fluid flows better and allows for better braking. Not to mention you can mix it up with red, blue, white and or clear tube. I hear the colors add a few hp. 🙃🤥
Man, that sounds so much better than my setup, I use garden hose and lemon 🍋 clips.
This video saved me, thanks from sweden! :)
Some good points made below by Spelunkerd, Steve Rob, and Bg147. Growing up in the 80's, my buddies & I used these on our old cars and never had any problems. We also didn't have the money to take our junkers to a mechanic ! Now they're illegal here; in my opinion, another example of laws being made by people that don't have to worry about saving money.
The compression fitting isn't allowed on brake lines because they are prone to sudden failure. They are a lot more susceptible to failure from pressure differentials and vibrations. It's silly to use compression fittings when it takes 30 seconds to make your own flare or you buy premade lines.
+Zxceelxuz UK mot says its not advisable/recommend but it doesn't say you can't use them, well that's my.interpretation
covington race
Here in Ontario, Canada, they are entirely illegal for brake line use. They simply aren't designed for the much higher pressures brake fluid is put under. I wouldn't understand why the UK mot would allow it, there's a reason no manufacture makes brake lines that way.
Zxceelxuz I read it wrong they are no appropriate, modifications are not allowed unless appropriate fittings are used, ferrule ones not being appropriate
Griffon129
How about you do something useful, like trying to breathe underwater?
the problem with a slip style sleeve type fitting is in semi flexible pressure lines . unless the line is clamped to a non moving area. the hose may push apart /___reverse outward pressure____\ but, if using a flare type connection. done properly will not separate like a slip style will
For high pressure brake line I prefer flaring, but if I can't I would use a stronger white steel compressing fittings than the compression fitting you are using. Someone in TH-cam made video comparing compression fittings.
the cheapest chinese brass compression fittings work fine. have done it for years. lasts forever on rear brakes. on fronts eventually it will blow out, but thats because front brakes use higher volume of fluid, probably higher pressure too. but they will get you home or last until payday when you can replace the line. rear brakes the fitting will outlast the car..guaranteed! i live in michigan where cars rust bad, it always works. sae says dont do it ever but it works. just make sure you tighten very good and test by firmly stomping on the brakes in an area where you wont hit someone before tr4usting it to be as good as new.
I wouldnt run these on front brakes, or even brake systems with calipers but in my opinion these are perfectly fine for rear drums. Really not that much pressure
Great video. Just what I needed. Thank you!
Thanks for showing me exactly how it's supposed to go cuz I've been flaring and putting those fittings on and it won't even screw on that's why thanks man
They are not legal because they can not hold the 1500 PSI generated in brake lines.
Good job,just what i was looking for,thank you!
Glad it helped Billy !
Thank you for showing hoe to use them .. not a many straight forward videos like this in 2024..... everyone's all about that bs safety stuff. And all I need is for the line to not leak lol
Stick it on , always say you had no idea it was there , bought vehicle like it , nice concise video
They should write that on your epitaph, - Kam Gamble rests here. He hit a concrete barrier at 80mph, and had no idea it was there ! -
In half the comments people say they have used these with no problems, the other half say its dangerous and illegal. I read through probably a couple hundred comments on this and not a single person said they had these fail on them or someone they know.. all they say is its illegal. So its interesting. How many people actually had a bad experience with these?
no one did theyre just regurgitating bullshit they see on google with no actual experience personally.
I’ll probably use one of these on my brake lines. Thankfully, Michigan doesn’t give a shit about inspections. Although I suspect it’s because half the cars would be illegal if they tried to institute something like what the other states have
Very useful, now time to do it on my truck
thank you very much for posting this you did a very good job appreciate it very much! Go Canada!
+John Hall Thanks John !
Yesterday i spent a whole day getting bad flares on my original line lexus line with no succes. So today i will be doing it with a steel compression fitting instead.
Sometimes things are a set up for more money for other's pockets. Like cars and parts. Well, I can't find a clutch slave assembly that you assemble yourself. I need to replace it and its all one unit. No nut to take off the reservoir from the line or at the other end to take off the slave from the line. There is no way to get the master cylinder reservoir mounted to the engine bay then thread the line and connect it to the clutch slave that mounts to the bell housing. There is no room... So... I will cut the line at the tube and add this compression sleeves and nuts.
Thank you!
I used a compression fitting on my a/c condenser once when the orifice valve got clogged. Lasted a season before it loosened enough to leak.
I have done some janky things on my vehicles from time to time, but I don't mess with fuel lines and brakes. It's not worth it. Do it correctly.
this was done correctly lol these adapter are perfectly fine for brake line repair it easier just monitor for leaks like any other fix
@@dflex4180 in the UK you would fail an MOT (annual safety test) if you use these compression joints. So I wouldn't argue it's done correctly. Haha, as typing the guy says they are illegal where he lives. They are banned in many places as they can blow off if they loosen. Flared pipes will never do this.
Just flare them and do it properly.
That line on the right is toast.
I just referred to this video because I need to splice a transmission cooler line. wasn't sure if I needed to flare the ends or not. Thanks
I don’t know if I would use on a transmission line thers a lot of psi on a tranny line
@@jeffleblanc8850
I thought oil cooler lines were pretty low psi wise?
I believe Dorman sells a 5000psi rated compression unuon. Its like $13 I think. I'd say if you're gonna do this get that. Just to be on the safe side. Front brakes do most of the braking. Pressure in front might be higher than in rear. Don't quote me though.
This video is simple and good
Excellent video
Thanks, very good demonstration.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge - great video! I wish I had the skills, garage and tools to accomplish this feat and many other D-I-Y projects. I just had a brake line puncture in my 2005 GMC Sierra 1500: brake fluid would disperse inside the engine compartment as if it was a garden hose mister whenever I hit the brake pedal. I didn't drive the truck after the instant I noticed my brake pedal was hitting the floorboard: I got on to the repair job as soon as I could within two-(2) weeks. I didn't drive the truck until I drove to a local auto repair shop. If you were told by a auto repair shop "we have to replace two brake lines; the first the brake line that had the puncture and the second line because it comes off as a pair from the master cylinder" - How much do you think the cost of repair with labor cost? I know from watching your video this is exactly the method and parts the auto shop performed on my truck. I am not happy with the "cost of repair' when the total cost of parts was ~ $20.00. During the "Work Authorization Telephone Conversation" I was told that they need to install two new brake lines; however, in fact they only did a "6 to 8 inch patch-job" on my brake line. They charged me approximately $550.00 - I asked for a oil change too. They also repaired my radio antenna [reception is marginal, but that may be a geographical problem] with my parts. I was upset because I was expecting two-(2) new "contiguous" brake lines, but instead I got a "coupler". I have to return to the shop because the bill is unsettled and they are diagnosing the 1997 Monte Carlo LS "ABS" the "Anti-Lock Brake Light" is always on and there may be a sensor problem. My main concern is that my truck is safe to drive? Will these compression fittings eventually loosen due to road vibration etc ? I used the shop's own words back onto them that they placed onto me during the "Work Authorization Telephone Conversation" - they countered that they could install two new "contiguous" brake lines: I left the shop yesterday [Monday, June 15, 2020] that I will give them my decision when I return for the Monte Carlo LS. Do I stay with their "patch job" or do I have them install two new brake lines? Cost? What would be a fair price in Northwest Florida?
did u take the new lines? if not, how are the comp fittings holding up?
@@superjojo555 No, I did not take the two new brake lines because they would have charged me for another brake job! I will never return to "Holmes Auto Repair"! I don't drive a lot and as of today to the best of my knowledge the fittings are holding up.
@@PappyNet01 Go to the AG office and tell them about the repair. What they used was illegal in Fla. shops cannot install these. Get your money back through the AG or tell the shop you're going to the AG.
@@genefogarty5395 How can it be illegal in Florida? Florida does not have the annual auto safety inspections and I am glad we don't because both New Jersey and Virginia robbed me for nearly 30-years!
@@PappyNet01 Yet you got robbed by a Florida repair shop. Have the line replaced and stop being cheap. Deal with a shop that has the sense to do the job right and pay for it once. They are not DOT approved and if you kill someone in an accident, you've just lost everything you have. Cheers!
In some states this is illegal where you need state inspection stickers. This is NOT what you do to brake lines! Double flare and a connecting union ONLY!! Or you will blow this mess apart and lose your brakes.
Thanks for sharing!!
My flare tool doesn’t even scratch the steel lines on my Jetta. What tool do i need?
thanks for the vid. what if the problem area is on a bend in the line? working on tranny cooler line and it's pissin out right where a bend is. do they got angled compression fittintgs?
Do u think i can do that on a trasmission line ???
Thanks so much brother this is great 👍
Been using the in-line flaring tool for a while now. Great for tight spaces and flares always come out perfect compared to the cheap bar style tool. If you have to use compression I'd only consider it a band-aid until a proper repair can be made. But really, it takes an extra 5 min to make a proper flared connection so why bother.
My band aid repair has lasted 3 years so far. 68k miles of delivery driving
That band aid is permanent as far as I'm concerned. Doesn't leak and never will
You got a link to that tool?
I think you left out double flaring the tip of the lines. That will prevent it from blowing out under pressure
I'm a plumber n I wouldn't use compression on my brakes they leak all the time and water has about an avg. of 80psi. brakes require more.. u can fix a leak u can't a mangled body.!!!! one time Deal .
Now you do know they make high compression fittings with a 5000 psi rating for hydraulics? The fittings designed for plumbing have a much less rating. Most toilets and sinks are hooked up with a compression fitting and that is code in most places.
@@kschreihart www.dormanproducts.com/p-65695-800-202.aspx Dorman offers a comprehensive line of Compression Fittings for almost any automotive repair job. All our Compression Fittings are constructed of high-quality materials for long-lasting durability. Not recommended for hydraulic brake systems. this is right off the web site not for brake even if it is 5000 psi rating
@@littleman2005 don't bother. This is Darwinism at its purest form. Hopefully they don't kill anyone else in the process...
They are illegal in NYS. Aside from that, if you ever take it apart for any reason you could NEVER reuse compressed ferrules. Even in home plumbing. So you must cut a new line and make a patch.
Use proper flared fittings, compression fittings are illegal to use on brake pipes
nobody wants illegal brake pipes
The proper way to join brake lines is to double flare each end and use a brake UNION. Not a compression fitting! Compression fittings can crush the brake line especially the smaller sizes like 3/16. Do the job right instead of doing a rig job on something as important as brakes.
so easer said, I have a line that goes through a fender well across the firewall behind the motor and would almost have to pull the motor to get to the line and get it out just to fix 2 inch end that hooks to the flex line
Ive never had 1 fail used for 20 yrs on all my beaters only will fail if u dont tighten all the way but doesnt that go for everything lmao
A flaring tool is not that hard to use I paid around £20 years ago and found replacing sections of pipes a real pain I found it fare better to replace complete length with new good quality copper break line its easier to bend to shape and wont rust.
you have to have room to get a flaring tool in to work right. cant hardly even see the mend let alone get a tool like that in there
This type of compression fitting is what is used on my Light Sport Aircraft. When used with plastic brake lines do NOT over tighten! That causes the brake line to be cut! I just had my airplane in the shop for some service and one of the shop workers did me a favor and tightened the compression fittings. All of the brake fluid drained out of the system within a couple of hours. Down to the last drop. So, now, I get to replace the compression fittings. i don't know if this is a problem with metal lines.
CAUTION YALL. Everything I've read on brake lines says DO NOT USE COMPRESSION FITTINGS. I guess cause the high psi going thru your brake lines. I also read it in the Chilton, and I trust the Chilton far more than a you tube video.
How long did it take until your wrecked your car from not having brakes?
🤣🤣
dramatic Automotive Hardware F3451 3/16" High Pressure Steel Compression Union (5000 PSI) tell me this wont work..u cant cuz it does
The irony of this video starting with him saying they're not legal for brakes where he's from is almost too much nonetheless let's show everyone how great they are should tell you what you need to know..
There is no law that says this is illegal please post it here if there actually is one .
Where to buy fitting from?
Dont do this bro
@@delta6583 already done bro good for temp fix
Compression fittings are not rated for the pressures a lot of brake systems work at.
Hey urgent question, do you suggest any type of sealant for extra piece of mind or is it totally unnecessary? Like teflon tape or maybe RTV silicone on those little rings? This is from the top of my head, im not sure what's brake fluid resistant.
im a new car owner got my brothers 88 Caprice off him, need to change the brake line... This video definitely helps. you're awesome! Any car tips for a new driver I could get from you?
Here's a tip for you. Never use compression fittings on a brake line. NEVER!!
this is okay if it's a tractor, atv, etc, any vehicle that does not leave your property and driven on public roads. in canada and most states in the usa this is illegal on any street vehicle
Sir you should really take this down as it's bad advice. Compression fittings should never be used for brake lines, period. These will fail eventually. Flaring is the only acceptable way to repair brake lines.
Double or bubble flaring only. Single flaring while better than this, it's still not adequately safe for brake systems on road vehicles.
I cant get them to thread together while under the hood but outside of it they go together just fine??????
You don't use brass on steel Jesbus
Even illegal if you were in a pinch that would be a nice way to get you home
i BELIEVE THEIR NOR LEGAL ON CARS ANY WHERE.
Because their not a flared fitting that is high compression.
I'd say you use a compression fitting on a fueoil furnace?
I have never had one fail !
I would flare up the ends of the lines, it is safer that way, no criticizing the video just saying what i would do if that was the case.
Thanks for this video
Wierd that these are illegal. For a brass fittings maybe but a steel equivalent should be allowed. On my vehicle the same concept is done by factory on the rear brake drum cilinder. It's also a compression fitting with compression O ring to make the connection.
So having a double compression fitting fitted somewhere on the brake line shouldn't be a issue as long the bad part of the line is removed and the rest is still in good condition.
How then can you legally connect two new lines that are flared to each other? Connectors I got don't look like that?
There are flared union fittings that are designed to connect two pieces of brake line together.
How pressure can this joint withstand
Enough to get you all the way to the crash site...
@@DL101ca stop it they sell 5000 psi adapters like this 1500 psi is all that is needed
When I was a little kid, dad did the compression fitting fix. We had a terrible wreck when it blew out. TERRIBLE IDEA. He was a well seasoned millwright. He thought it to be a good fix.
Don't ever use those cheap water line compression fittings: the sleeves don't exactly crush, but they always rock over a bit, creating a weak point. Heck, I don't like using them on water lines unless I have to. Get a parker or swagelok fitting, which will have the sleeve stay square in the bore and not only that... hold pressure.
Thanks my friend 🙏🏼