from what i can work out you need to use the flat side of the clamp and leave a bit extra line protruding when making a fat bubble end. You have followed instructions for the 1st part of a double which is different. This usually works but you might find yourself cranking the nuts super tight to get them to crush onto the mating surface.
That is not a bubble flare. That is step one of a double flare. It LOOKS like a bubble flare, but the bottom is not flat. To complete a double flare, you would need to force the cone into the hole.
Well it is not a proper way to make a bubble flare. It is still usable if you combine the brake line made like this with inverted bubble flare nut. 😂😂 But yes he should use flat side of the tool to make it right and use with nuts for bubble.
wait, so a bubble flair is literally just the very first step to making single/double flares? so if it's so quick and easy, why is it not the standard?
Insane that you spotted this. Everyone is getting so confused about the correct way to do it and i guess the answer is there is not a good way to make a bubble with one of the cheap tools as shown. However it seems that if you use the flat side of the clamp and leave a bit extra protruding and if the pipe is the soft copper looking type and if the end is prepared well and if your yolk is not badly made as most of them are not flat and often pull the die off to the side. So once you have covered all of the above you might be able to make a half decent bubble with a double flaring tool such as the one in the video. Too many people setting the depth to the depth required for a double and making a tiny bubble in the concave side of the clamp. I recently learned that this is a bit too tiny a bubble and is very close to not making a good connection. Seems that when you use the flat side of the clamp and leave extra pipe protruding then you can make a fat enough bubble to clamp down nicely into it's mating surface. Best is to buy the correct tool for metric. these tools are pretty shit and i have always managed to scrape by with them. It took me 5 hours of watching youtube videos to really learn the differences between metric and USA style lines and how you can make a metric bubble with a cheap tool and also that you can make metric bubble to double to make a male to female with male female nuts so that 2x metric will mate directly together without a union. The metric unions have concave mating surfaces inside where the usa unions have convex mating surfaces inside. A euro line can have line ends which are both convex and concave (male to female ends) I can still only assume that this euro style of male to female brake line ends are actually one end a bubble and the other end a double flare but with male nut at one end for the bubble and a female nut with internal thread for the double flared end. took me a long while to work out i could make both with the cheap tool and how the best way to make a bubble was with the cheap tool. Forget about it if you have the factory style steel galvanised pipe. You will need a decent tool for that type of pipe.
This is the incorrect way to do it... Your flare on an ISO/Bubble flare should be completely flat on the line side. This is the first half of making an SAE/American flare. While both can work I suggest using the flat side of the flaring tool not the cupped side.
I found this out the hard way until I read your link. Thanks for your input. It saved me a whole Lotta trouble after fucking up all night I’m trying to get a flare for my daughters car it’s the best of social media and sharing information is all about… Cheers… Keep on rocking brother.
This is not quite a bubble flare because it is supposed to have a straight backside and not a 45 degree angle. Use the other side of the tool if you wanna make a bubble flare. This is just the first step of a double flare. Not the same thing. If it works, that is another question.
Old comment but, the Bubble completes when you screw the nut into the union. The ISO nut has a flat top and forms the flat backside when tightened. it is best not to use the flat side as it forms too small a bubble and it's often lopsided due to lack of side support. Use the flared side and let the nut flatten the back.
Just went through this ordeal and the cheap clamping "vise" all these kits supply does not hold the coated Nicop line securely. Even after using a wrench to tighten the wing nuts, the line just pushes out of the clamp with no flare. I even wire brushed the PFF coating off and tried and the line just pushes out the back of the fixture.
You should use a dedicated bubble flaring tool to do it properly. Even with the right tool I've been having problems making consistent flares. I guess it takes practice.
This looks like the same flaring tool that I just bought. It’s literally a piece of shit and I’d advise anyone to spend a little more and get a better version
Bubble flares are used for attaching rubber line to steel lines double flareing is for attaching fitting to hard lines so be need to 2 steps. All this does is help hold a rubber hose onto the hardline when clamped
When making a bubble flare with a double flare tool do not use the side with the countersunk holes use the opposite flat side.
A bubble flare using a double flare kit. Now I know I already have the tools. Thanks for the video.
I do this all the time using the flat side of the block and it works every time and no leaks
from what i can work out you need to use the flat side of the clamp and leave a bit extra line protruding when making a fat bubble end. You have followed instructions for the 1st part of a double which is different. This usually works but you might find yourself cranking the nuts super tight to get them to crush onto the mating surface.
Wirklich sehr gutes Video ausführlich gezeigt wie es genau gemacht wird und es schaut echt gut aus, danke Gruß Thomas aus München
That is not a bubble flare. That is step one of a double flare. It LOOKS like a bubble flare, but the bottom is not flat. To complete a double flare, you would need to force the cone into the hole.
Well it is not a proper way to make a bubble flare. It is still usable if you combine the brake line made like this with inverted bubble flare nut. 😂😂 But yes he should use flat side of the tool to make it right and use with nuts for bubble.
wait, so a bubble flair is literally just the very first step to making single/double flares? so if it's so quick and easy, why is it not the standard?
other sites say to not use the flair side of the block ?
I noticed that too. Not sure why they say that as i thought it would help the flaring process
That’s a bubble flare. Thanks that was super helpful.
What size adapter did you use?
Nice I love it , thank you
Wondering why you chose to "fudge" a bubble flare with a double flare tool when your company markets a DIN/ISO bubble flare tool kit.
+radome914gt correct
although advance auto rents the tool,
so I am going to get theres and try it.
Insane that you spotted this. Everyone is getting so confused about the correct way to do it and i guess the answer is there is not a good way to make a bubble with one of the cheap tools as shown. However it seems that if you use the flat side of the clamp and leave a bit extra protruding and if the pipe is the soft copper looking type and if the end is prepared well and if your yolk is not badly made as most of them are not flat and often pull the die off to the side. So once you have covered all of the above you might be able to make a half decent bubble with a double flaring tool such as the one in the video.
Too many people setting the depth to the depth required for a double and making a tiny bubble in the concave side of the clamp. I recently learned that this is a bit too tiny a bubble and is very close to not making a good connection. Seems that when you use the flat side of the clamp and leave extra pipe protruding then you can make a fat enough bubble to clamp down nicely into it's mating surface.
Best is to buy the correct tool for metric. these tools are pretty shit and i have always managed to scrape by with them. It took me 5 hours of watching youtube videos to really learn the differences between metric and USA style lines and how you can make a metric bubble with a cheap tool and also that you can make metric bubble to double to make a male to female with male female nuts so that 2x metric will mate directly together without a union. The metric unions have concave mating surfaces inside where the usa unions have convex mating surfaces inside.
A euro line can have line ends which are both convex and concave (male to female ends) I can still only assume that this euro style of male to female brake line ends are actually one end a bubble and the other end a double flare but with male nut at one end for the bubble and a female nut with internal thread for the double flared end.
took me a long while to work out i could make both with the cheap tool and how the best way to make a bubble was with the cheap tool. Forget about it if you have the factory style steel galvanised pipe. You will need a decent tool for that type of pipe.
This is the incorrect way to do it... Your flare on an ISO/Bubble flare should be completely flat on the line side. This is the first half of making an SAE/American flare. While both can work I suggest using the flat side of the flaring tool not the cupped side.
I found this out the hard way until I read your link. Thanks for your input. It saved me a whole Lotta trouble after fucking up all night I’m trying to get a flare for my daughters car it’s the best of social media and sharing information is all about… Cheers… Keep on rocking brother.
Hey man, do you know about the brake lines flare? Concentricity? Runout?
This is not quite a bubble flare because it is supposed to have a straight backside and not a 45 degree angle. Use the other side of the tool if you wanna make a bubble flare. This is just the first step of a double flare. Not the same thing. If it works, that is another question.
it will almost certainly work
Old comment but, the Bubble completes when you screw the nut into the union. The ISO nut has a flat top and forms the flat backside when tightened. it is best not to use the flat side as it forms too small a bubble and it's often lopsided due to lack of side support. Use the flared side and let the nut flatten the back.
Just went through this ordeal and the cheap clamping "vise" all these kits supply does not hold the coated Nicop line securely. Even after using a wrench to tighten the wing nuts, the line just pushes out of the clamp with no flare. I even wire brushed the PFF coating off and tried and the line just pushes out the back of the fixture.
Buy a better flaring tool. The good one I finally found was not the most expensive
Great graphics
Can this tool work on hard brake line?
No. And I highly recommend you avoid this tool and all like it. You'll never want to do brakes again. Pay more for the better tools
@@Jin-Ro I use NiCopp tubing. Soft copper that flares easy. Any tool works on it easy.
115 degree?
I made this bubble flare and I got a leak so I wonder if this cheap tool works or not?
You should use a dedicated bubble flaring tool to do it properly. Even with the right tool I've been having problems making consistent flares. I guess it takes practice.
I already bought a professional tool. I got it right.
The demonstration was incorrect.Use the flat side of the tool,rather than the countersunk side.The countersunk side is for single and double flares.
Everyone is using soft nicop line. Now let’s see you bubble flare the 20 year old steel line on the car that you have to splice.
Nbs 😂😂😂😂 Im doing it now
No sound?
+Edward Paulsworth No,
I know, I kept turning up my volume......lol
This looks like the same flaring tool that I just bought. It’s literally a piece of shit and I’d advise anyone to spend a little more and get a better version
use an impact gun with a large socket to tighten those wingnuts down its very satisfying
A bad craftsman blames his tools
It's VERY easy to make a bubble, obviously. It is not so easy to make a FLARE! Still searching for a true ISO bubble flare.
Ottimo video
He is showing a european style bubble flare. Common in older, and some newer european cars. DIN/ISO bubble flare is flat on the back end.
Thats basically an incomplete double flare not a true bubble flare
Is this a bubble flare (ISO flare)?
C4 corvettes have these, need to get me this tool.
Double flare nit bubble flare double check your video
He forgot to open the bubble so it will restrict the flow. It's two operations not one
It's called a double flare for a reason!!
great
Sorry but I don’t believe you this tool can only make a double flare I tried it over and over
Incorrect
Wrong
Thats no bubble
You did almost everything wrong with this tool. Really poor video.
Janky fool ...
did you really just skip the whole second step ? lol wow
crettybocker Wouldn't the "second step" create a double flare? This video says how to make a bubble flare...
+crettybocker yes he does,
....
Bubble flares are used for attaching rubber line to steel lines double flareing is for attaching fitting to hard lines so be need to 2 steps. All this does is help hold a rubber hose onto the hardline when clamped