Yes! I actully shot the other video very late last year and got around to editing and posting it only a few weeks ago , so there has been a few updates since then , thanks for the comment
Mate - as an Norwegian that loves Aussies and theyre cars I got admit this. When I first had my eyes on a blue XR6 turbo Ute on one of my trips Down Under - I was sold. I know what a Volvo redblock turbobrick can do - this was a 4 liter inline six with a stout bottom end and turbo and I was sold. Bad news is its gonna be with a long distance relationship as a right wheel car never sold in Europe are not going to be road worthy here in Norway. Mate - I love your car, I love your upgrades and I send you all the best for the future. Helge
You hit the nail on the head. The hardest decision one makes, is choosing the engine builder they feel is best suited to there needs. We also chose Tunnel Vision to build both our 1000+rwhp engines, A SoHc and Barra. Jason's attention to detail and precision is an awesome journey to be part off.. Enjoy!
Nothing more reassuring than having the engine built (over engineered in this case) so that you know it will handle your current power (and perhaps future upgrade if you so choose to go there)
With parts available today there really is no reason to build a marginal bottom and with Barra's/modulars having good valve-train and heads power is no longer an issue. Traction is the biggest problem.
@@georgeauto oh it'll be an animal with his build and tune, reliable too. Can't wait to see some footage. Ask Jas about the green xe on gas research heading for the power pole when the throttle blade got stuck open on Hammond Rd. (He even warned me lol) was a while ago now but he won't have forgotten hahaha. Good luck man, I will be looking for the next video
It amazes me how some businesses treat customers. They seem to forget that they only exist because of customers. I'm glad you had a positive experience with a business that values you and you are happy to promote them.
Thanks for your comment, as a business owner myself I found that at the beginning the goal was to pick up work and get busy, as I got busier the next goal was to supply demand without compromising quality, a lot easier said then done. It can be difficult for a business with a lot of employees to keep the standards high , its a team effort from everyone
Stumbled across this video and kept watching it. Subbed also, Jason is a top bloke, I'm in Tassie and asked him just about J3 tunes for my old ED and he had plenty of time to answer my questions and help me out. Great video mate 👍👍👍
Awesome. I can guess who didn't get back to you. I wish I had gone the same path you did. Looking forward to seeing how this build goes, looks awesome!
Grouting the block helps reduce the risk of cracking a bore due to the extra harmonics and cylinder pressures of high horsepower applications. Also the grout helps reduce thermal heat from the cylinder bore. I'm about to build mine too. I managed to buy a BF mark 2 engine for 1k complete including the loom.This way, I can still drive my car which runs perfect anyway, I just want more power. My target is 600rwkts. Mine will have Nitto I Beams paired with Atomic Cosworth pistons on E-85. I have already done all the mods needed for that power.
Loving following this bro, love the way you deliver the information, clear and concise, keep doing what you’re doing homie. Digging this series up here in Brissy 👌🏽
Thanks mate for this video as I’m currently doing a Barra project conversion to my 68 mustang and the thought were to buy a turbo engine, or build one👍🏻
Love what you got done,can you give me a price guide for what you had done,like you im not a millionaire but your engine looks great,and how does it perform my fg is my fav also not a turbo
Man I think you should have put in a atomic heavy duty timing chain kit for insurance. Love the build, iv built my fgx engine but only pushing 400rwkw at 16psi. Did headstuds, valve springs. Timing chain kit. Oil pump, harmonic balancer, flex plate. All atomic gear, installed it all myself, extremely satisfying doing it yourself also a little daunting.
Hey mate, have you looked into carbon fibre tailshafts? I've seen nothing but massive gains from falcons with these. Probably one of the most underrated performance part for these cars.
This is the second vid I have watched of yours after seeing the previous one I was hoping you weren't going to go back to maxx they didn't seem good at all.
The Best Barra Ford Engine Builder in Australia 🇦🇺 is Atomic Engines in Sydney. Why ? Because Brad has 2 sets of aftermarket Rods . His Best Piston is from the UK 🇬🇧 A F1 Engine Builder designed his Pistons & Manufacturered them . Lighter & Stronger . Every Ford Part that has ever broken Brad had re engineered so they wouldn't brake. Check them out . The other thing thing that really makes a huge difference is a Plazzmann Xtra Large Radiator & Intercooler.
Thanks for that info I have seen them yes, Jasons motors are superior , heard a few horror stories of atomic stuff, sure some are good , but had another fellow TH-camr have a issue with his motor from atomic
If you plan on keeping this big girl for the rest of your life, go and buy a bucket load of lanolin oil and/or wurths cavity wax, and rust proof her to within an inch of her life. Ba and fg are notorious for rust between panels. (I repair one with 80km on clock and it had rust everywhere between the panels. Its almost like they drove them thru the water at Riverbend before they prime and paint them. Fyi: Lanolin oil is heaps cheaper than the wurths stuff, and does the same if not better job.. Sand doesn't stick to lanolin either. So its perfect for rust proofing the inside of 4wd chassis too :) Everything sticks to the wurths atuff like shit to a blanket. Good luck with the rest of the build brotherhood days from Perth
@@georgeauto forget the wurths cavity wax. Its 20 per can. (Only good when insurance companies are paying for it) And whatwver you do. DONT use fish oil. ( it smells like a manky vag) The lanolin oil is available in an aerosol. Spray it everywhere you can get the nozzle and the little hose into man. Remove trims and grommets to get access if you can. Goto Town when applying.
@@fatasdat I’ve been wanting to do this for a while but haven’t gone balls to the wall yet until I find that perfect brand. I want to redo some seam sealing in a few areas first, if you got any recommendations on that as well?got a preferred brand of lanolin or anything? With some smaller 300g cans being around 20 bux it would add up quick but I’m sure there’s a more economical way. You talk about it like you’ve got a vat of the stuff and put it on ya cereal lol. My first experience with fords unique rust package was when I was doing auto glass. Could almost guarantee you’d find some behind every piece of glass or if not the old urethane that you’ve just tried to trim down has decided to effortlessly peel off the body taking each substrate and seam sealer with it. Brand new dealership deliveries with glass damage on transport were no exception lol
@@georgeautoI know it’s a year old but still relevant . 5 litres of lanotec steel seal plus you can get it online in a package deal with the 750ml or 1.5 litre pressure sprayer that comes with an extension nozzle that pivots around & helps get into tight spots . The aerosol cans are good for getting in behind rubber seal strips , although the old style 400g can was much better with the thin straw you add to the standard type nozzle , I don’t like the new style 300g cans with the integrated fat straw , it doesn’t dispense as accurately & you can’t get behind the seals . This is not a do it once affair , as lanolin will only last so long , the car being in the heat regularly & washed too often will see it need redoing on maybe a yearly basis depending on heat & number of washdowns . It’s a good idea to remove the door & sill sealing rubbers completely before applying lanolin to remove any contaminants from the gutter & steel edges & cleaning inside the rubbers with isopropyl alcohol & cotton buds , ensures your not just putting lanolin on top of salt , soap or other crap that gets deposited over time . I am old school & have kept my au falcons relatively rust free , with one I have owned for 18 years & never garaged using the products & methods stated . I pray most people that read this & I tell my daughter about washing her 4wd , DONT USE A PRESSURE WASHER to wash your car as it pushes contaminants under the rubbers making the car a rust bucket in a much shorter time period , all the young people down at car wash obviously don’t give a hoot about this as they are probably not gong to try & keep there cars for 5 years , let alone 20 . It’s also a good idea if having door trims removed for regulator replacement or speaker upgrades to clean & wipe any crap away & spray lanolin into the intrusion bars & coat the inside skin whilst also checking any drain holes are clear . We have had to cut a bit of rusty metal out of the door skin & prime paint , this happened due to the foam backing on the door trim staying soaking wet after periods of heavy rain & depending on where the car is parked & the angle of the vehicle on the road , water will pool & sit inside the door until either the door is opened or the car is driven & moving around to get the water out , you will be surprised how much water can sit in the door if left sitting in one spot if your car sits idle outside for periods of more than a week , it’s a good idea to open all the doors on a nice warm day & dry out any moisture . Under the door sills of a falcon there is 3 layers of steel & just pulling the rubber plugs on the outer will not get rust protection into the whole cavity , the Jimmy hack channel will show a cut cross section of the sill & explain what is required to get into all of the sill cavity for rust prevention . Hope this helps with keeping the rust out of a few more falcons , as seen in older fords & holdens , its the biggest enemy when it comes to keeping a car alive for decades , the mechanical repairs are in comparison , fairly straight forward .
Hey yes I havnt uploaded on this car in a while , next update coming soon car has been going well but not perfect , goes good! Having some electrical problems now
Glad it's working out for you now, but how on earth did your original shop put that rocker cover back on knowing full well the repercussions? Then proceed to install a few more dollars worth of parts, slap a tune on then whisk you out the door?
They did warn me of it , I’m guessing they already started all of the other mods like exhaust / turbo etc before opening up the rocker cover and it was too late
@@georgeauto As someone in the performance game, that is still inexcusable in my book unfortunately. If you would have come into any reputable shop who has been built on a focus on quality to it's customer's & not a shop purely based on the "high turnover, see you later type of stuff", you wouldn't have left with your car that day the sludge was found. They should have refused to let a car leave that way without coming up with a solution to the problem. Nonetheless, you're in great hands with Tunnel Vision
From the inner west of Melbourne here. Love the XR6's but don't own one (Aurion driver .... please don't judge me), so where do you get E85 from? I mainly fill up at Shell/BP and haven't noticed it sold at any one them. More of an independent petrol station thing?
Thankyou , well box is stock for now, surprisingly still holding up , its all in the tune and how you drive it , the motor is built for 700-900kw but I'm not pushing that amount as my turbo is now maxxed out. Ideally a built gearbox and race spec tail shaft is the way to go, then the diff , axles etc need to be upgraded, about 20k
Well done George. I would of done the same bro. You can’t go wrong and it will be reliable as moving forward. Mine is making 600kw atw and believe me it’s enough as a daily especially when it looks like a sleeper. I’m interested to see what yours will make on the dyno. Try put it on a hub dyno if you can and that will give you a exact power reading. Good luck mate and good job 👍
Sick video bro, just maybe turn the background music down a touch when your talking, I had to really listen sometimes, Can't wait to see this thing on the dyno. Cheers for the vid 🤘
best to give Jason a call mate and see as there are many factors including parts availablity, even Maxx performance can do one for you if you like youre looking at around 16-20k thats a super rough estimate
Lucky the gearbox is heaps better than out of the earlier ba and bf models actually im pretty sure that the the last versions of the bf had a zf gearbox, but that zf is a awesome bit of kit much stronger gearbox's than the ba and bf had that was the weak link in the drive train on the ba and bf's and good choice on the haltech ecu ,do it once and do it properly bro and that sounds like exactly what you are doing 👌top shit bro and go the mighty barra
I live in the states how come no one uses the atomic kits like the 998 kit with the fatrods exc. I have a 280z that I am Barra swapping and was wondering why no one using atomic
Some people do use them , some people had issues with them also , weather it’s fitting error or somthing else not sure , my engine builder with this combo running consistent low 8s factory timing gear
@@georgeauto I was just asking I have a quote for a very reasonable kit from them shipped to the states . Looking to make about 800rwhp and absolute max of 1000hp. I will will be doing he build myself.
I hope you asked the shop that "put on the Staged.. er i mean stage 3-4 tuned kit" on your car to please explain. Common-sense says that any performance shop worth half a grain of salt, would have stopped as soon as they seen the schmootz under the timing cover and scalled you about it. Not ignore it, to then go on and install thousands more dollars worth of mods to said engine..
Yes it wasn't ideal, and I didn't really know about oil sludge before this happened, and learnt a lot. I just thoought it wasn't that bad and it would wash out, they did warn me of it happening though and sent pics.
Great video once again George, Nice setup, hopefully & touch wood your ZF Holds out , , Or did Jason calibrate & tune the auto at the same time , Enjoy 🤙
Thankyou sorry for late AF reply , touch wood ZF is still holding out! done over 32,000ks on the motor also pushing over 500kwkw, but yeah i think tailshaft and box soon
Hey super late reply apologies , I want to go a built ZF also , probably a 15k operation though , twin diff hat , axles , and GJ tailshaft , thinking bigger turbo now also , current one is maxxed out :(
Yeah I've seen Michael in some videos, looks like a really knowledgeable guy, I bet he is also amazing at what he does, Im not trying to make it a competition of who is the best, just wanted to say that Jason has a really good reputation when it comes to engine building / car builds
@@georgeauto stock FG cams love 1000hp anyway bro.. No need for Cams unless you wanna have that sick chopp sound, mate's G6ET makes 750kw and has stock turbo cams stock turbo pistons
Thanks yes tune and numbers should be next video, hopefully happening in the next few days, then ill get another video together. Ill see how I go with quarter mile stuff, I don't want to break it again, really need to update my diff to the twin diff hat, I cracked my cradle on my BF launching it off the foot brake last time
It hasn’t skipped a tooth the cams are binding I’m amazed max performance don’t know about this issue on bara’s. You could do a basic freshen up on the motor rings, bearing and make sure they hone the cam tunnels and linish the cams. Gas motor option is awful on a nice car like this . You’d scrape at least 10k off the value.
Hey mate if you don't mind me asking how much did this knocked you back roughly? Doesn't have to be 100% 12-15k possibly? I've also got an FG MKii that I rarely drive and overbuilding for future mods is such a good idea.
@@tiestovic I don't get it either. When someone ask me about cost of the mods I'll tell them straight. No harm in throwing out the figures so people can save up and have a goal etc. Each to their own I guess 🤷♂️
@@hellothere4342 100%. I’ve already tried asking the question to him and it’s been ignored lol. I’m also looking at getting Jason @ tunnel vision to build me a motor pretty much the same as his 800rwkw capable so wouldn’t mind a ball park figure as to what he got charged
Hey mate totally looked over this and didn't see it with all the comment, sorry if you felt ignored , motor was roughly 20k not inculding labour to pull out and put in
@@georgeauto nah man it's all good man. I ended up ordering Atomic 998 long so that way I'll have a spare engine and I can pull the original engine out as I get some spare time and at my own pace.
Cool, only just watched the related video a day or so ago. And there is already an update!
Yes! I actully shot the other video very late last year and got around to editing and posting it only a few weeks ago , so there has been a few updates since then , thanks for the comment
Mate - as an Norwegian that loves Aussies and theyre cars I got admit this. When I first had my eyes on a blue XR6 turbo Ute on one of my trips Down Under - I was sold. I know what a Volvo redblock turbobrick can do - this was a 4 liter inline six with a stout bottom end and turbo and I was sold. Bad news is its gonna be with a long distance relationship as a right wheel car never sold in Europe are not going to be road worthy here in Norway. Mate - I love your car, I love your upgrades and I send you all the best for the future.
Helge
Hey Helge, thanks for you comment, haha would be crazy to do a left hand conversion on one , thanks for your kind words also
Can’t go wrong with Tunnel Vision, Jason is a perfectionist
Best of the best
That’s what we need
You hit the nail on the head. The hardest decision one makes, is choosing the engine builder they feel is best suited to there needs. We also chose Tunnel Vision to build both our 1000+rwhp engines, A SoHc and Barra. Jason's attention to detail and precision is an awesome journey to be part off.. Enjoy!
Nothing more reassuring than having the engine built (over engineered in this case) so that you know it will handle your current power (and perhaps future upgrade if you so choose to go there)
So good thank you for your comment , not the cheapest short term but defs future proofs it
With parts available today there really is no reason to build a marginal bottom and with Barra's/modulars having good valve-train and heads power is no longer an issue. Traction is the biggest problem.
Barra the 👑
Jas is the man, you couldn't have picked a better dude. He worked on my XE years ago. His work is mind blowing
Im so excited to pick her up! its there getting tuned right now!
@@georgeauto oh it'll be an animal with his build and tune, reliable too. Can't wait to see some footage. Ask Jas about the green xe on gas research heading for the power pole when the throttle blade got stuck open on Hammond Rd. (He even warned me lol) was a while ago now but he won't have forgotten hahaha.
Good luck man, I will be looking for the next video
I can so relate to your story. Ever single word. Brakes! Buy once cry once is pure gold. Smart man. You made all the right decisions.
Thankyou ! Yes will need to upgrade brakes too
Only just saw your video from 3 weeks ago and commented on that good to see you went and got your motor rebuilt from the ground up.
You chose well with going to Tunnel Vision. Jason is an artist and his engines are just about bombproof.
Yes I’m so happy so far thanks for you comment
Will be solid and reliable car for many years. Awesome to see
Yes thank you , that’s what I hope for
Excellent segment and outcome
Outstanding
Thankyou ! dyno video coming soon
Yep, I've heard Tunnel Vision are the best in the business, so you've made the right choice!
Thankyou yet im very happy
Loving this build so far mate 👍 Great presentation and camera skills.
Thank you bro
You made the right move. Awesome!
Solid video, editing , soundtrack and info. Made me fall in love with the fg
Thankyou so much for your comment
I've watched this delema from the start and I'm impressed in the way you went. Good content and info for those not in the know. Keep it going!!👌
Thankyou so much !l for your comment Dynaman
It amazes me how some businesses treat customers. They seem to forget that they only exist because of customers. I'm glad you had a positive experience with a business that values you and you are happy to promote them.
Thanks for your comment, as a business owner myself I found that at the beginning the goal was to pick up work and get busy, as I got busier the next goal was to supply demand without compromising quality, a lot easier said then done. It can be difficult for a business with a lot of employees to keep the standards high , its a team effort from everyone
Stumbled across this video and kept watching it. Subbed also, Jason is a top bloke, I'm in Tassie and asked him just about J3 tunes for my old ED and he had plenty of time to answer my questions and help me out. Great video mate 👍👍👍
Awesome, thank you! Glad you enjoyed it
I watched the first video the other day and was expecting this but did not expect it this fast😍
That’s how we roll haha , the last video I filmed late last year but only finished and dropped the edit recently , then more updates happened
Awesome. I can guess who didn't get back to you. I wish I had gone the same path you did. Looking forward to seeing how this build goes, looks awesome!
Thankyou ! what kind of car do you have ?
Awesome job on the rebuild
Thankyou
It's pretty much my dream car!!!
Yeah the bois !! Have u got one yet ?
Grouting the block helps reduce the risk of cracking a bore due to the extra harmonics and cylinder pressures of high horsepower applications. Also the grout helps reduce thermal heat from the cylinder bore.
I'm about to build mine too. I managed to buy a BF mark 2 engine for 1k complete including the loom.This way, I can still drive my car which runs perfect anyway, I just want more power. My target is 600rwkts. Mine will have Nitto I Beams paired with Atomic Cosworth pistons on E-85. I have already done all the mods needed for that power.
amazing insight man thank you! nice! what car is it going in ?
Ford BF F6 Typhoon. @@georgeauto
Subscribed 👍🏼looking forward for the dyno vid.
Awesome 👏 coming soon stay tuned
Like it how your honest about $ spent. The xr6 are a great bang for buck performance car but a lot of people think it's cheap.
Thanks well you can do them for cheap, or you can go all out two very different cars at the end of the day
This will be one of the most powerful 11-12sec street cars out there 😎🤘
yes should be in the 11-10's no worries if the gearbox holds up haha
@@georgeauto on the street on street tyres?
Loving following this bro, love the way you deliver the information, clear and concise, keep doing what you’re doing homie. Digging this series up here in Brissy 👌🏽
Thanks bro ! Glad you’re liking it !
Thanks mate for this video as I’m currently doing a Barra project conversion to my 68 mustang and the thought were to buy a turbo engine, or build one👍🏻
No problem 👍
Awesome video mate can’t wait to see the final numbers 💪
Thankyou , super late reply and still pending the next video to come out
beautiful build bro keep it up bro
Thanks Razza !
This is so sick bro
How much $$?
way to go mate, feeling happy for you
Should of saved $$ and stuck with PCMTEC the haltech & zf don’t agree with each other, mint build none the less 👌🏻
oh really I didn't know this was a thing, I went haltech for the extra engine protection and sensors, I really don't want this motor frying itself
Hell yeah thats awesome! Good choice!
Thanks 🙏
Awesome stuff mate 🤘🏼 keep it up
Hey where did you get that oil cooler fitting between the block and oil filter?
Love what you got done,can you give me a price guide for what you had done,like you im not a millionaire but your engine looks great,and how does it perform my fg is my fav also not a turbo
good to see you went this path, totally thought you were going to go the povo gas engine hahah
Loving the videos George 🤙🏼
Thanks bro
Man I think you should have put in a atomic heavy duty timing chain kit for insurance. Love the build, iv built my fgx engine but only pushing 400rwkw at 16psi. Did headstuds, valve springs. Timing chain kit. Oil pump, harmonic balancer, flex plate. All atomic gear, installed it all myself, extremely satisfying doing it yourself also a little daunting.
Thanks mate, my engine builder didn't want to use atomic stuff, he has had great results with the factory setups
Hey mate, have you looked into carbon fibre tailshafts? I've seen nothing but massive gains from falcons with these.
Probably one of the most underrated performance part for these cars.
Hey no I havnt but I defs will , I did call GJ drivelines and they said $2200 for their Big Bang 1500hp tailshaft
i don't know a lot about barra engines, but jason sounds like a bloke who takes a shitload of pride in his work, hard to find in general these days
Yeah he does, the guy is amazing and also super busy so that says alot
Good decision 💪🏽👍🏽 the paint work looks mint too
I think so too! thanks ! we ended up ceramic coating it
How much did the engine build set you back??
Great build
Thankyou !
Great update. Ps: music was too loud when you were talking.
So, cool, thanks. could you give a breakdown of what everything cost would be much appreciated
Might do a video soon on that as had a few people asking
That's awesome bro 👌 very impressive 👏 good job. 👍
Thanks Stevo
Very good choices! I approve. :)
Thank you kindly! excited to see what she makes on the dyno tomorrow !
This is the second vid I have watched of yours after seeing the previous one I was hoping you weren't going to go back to maxx they didn't seem good at all.
The Best Barra Ford Engine Builder in Australia 🇦🇺 is Atomic Engines in Sydney. Why ?
Because Brad has 2 sets of aftermarket Rods . His Best Piston is from the UK 🇬🇧 A F1 Engine Builder designed his Pistons & Manufacturered them . Lighter & Stronger . Every Ford Part that has ever broken Brad had re engineered so they wouldn't brake. Check them out .
The other thing thing that really makes a huge difference is a Plazzmann Xtra Large Radiator & Intercooler.
Thanks for that info I have seen them yes, Jasons motors are superior , heard a few horror stories of atomic stuff, sure some are good , but had another fellow TH-camr have a issue with his motor from atomic
Nice engine and u have taken the right path by rebuilding it.Did the rebuild cost as much as the original car price??
Thanks for your comment, no surprisingly it didn’t
If you plan on keeping this big girl for the rest of your life, go and buy a bucket load of lanolin oil and/or wurths cavity wax, and rust proof her to within an inch of her life.
Ba and fg are notorious for rust between panels. (I repair one with 80km on clock and it had rust everywhere between the panels.
Its almost like they drove them thru the water at Riverbend before they prime and paint them.
Fyi:
Lanolin oil is heaps cheaper than the wurths stuff, and does the same if not better job..
Sand doesn't stick to lanolin either. So its perfect for rust proofing the inside of 4wd chassis too :)
Everything sticks to the wurths atuff like shit to a blanket.
Good luck with the rest of the build brotherhood days from Perth
ok thanks for that information, so do you paint it on the inner of the panels ?
@@georgeauto forget the wurths cavity wax. Its 20 per can.
(Only good when insurance companies are paying for it)
And whatwver you do. DONT use fish oil. ( it smells like a manky vag)
The lanolin oil is available in an aerosol.
Spray it everywhere you can get the nozzle and the little hose into man. Remove trims and grommets to get access if you can.
Goto Town when applying.
@@fatasdat I’ve been wanting to do this for a while but haven’t gone balls to the wall yet until I find that perfect brand. I want to redo some seam sealing in a few areas first, if you got any recommendations on that as well?got a preferred brand of lanolin or anything? With some smaller 300g cans being around 20 bux it would add up quick but I’m sure there’s a more economical way. You talk about it like you’ve got a vat of the stuff and put it on ya cereal lol.
My first experience with fords unique rust package was when I was doing auto glass. Could almost guarantee you’d find some behind every piece of glass or if not the old urethane that you’ve just tried to trim down has decided to effortlessly peel off the body taking each substrate and seam sealer with it. Brand new dealership deliveries with glass damage on transport were no exception lol
@@georgeautoI know it’s a year old but still relevant . 5 litres of lanotec steel seal plus you can get it online in a package deal with the 750ml or 1.5 litre pressure sprayer that comes with an extension nozzle that pivots around & helps get into tight spots . The aerosol cans are good for getting in behind rubber seal strips , although the old style 400g can was much better with the thin straw you add to the standard type nozzle , I don’t like the new style 300g cans with the integrated fat straw , it doesn’t dispense as accurately & you can’t get behind the seals . This is not a do it once affair , as lanolin will only last so long , the car being in the heat regularly & washed too often will see it need redoing on maybe a yearly basis depending on heat & number of washdowns . It’s a good idea to remove the door & sill sealing rubbers completely before applying lanolin to remove any contaminants from the gutter & steel edges & cleaning inside the rubbers with isopropyl alcohol & cotton buds , ensures your not just putting lanolin on top of salt , soap or other crap that gets deposited over time . I am old school & have kept my au falcons relatively rust free , with one I have owned for 18 years & never garaged using the products & methods stated . I pray most people that read this & I tell my daughter about washing her 4wd , DONT USE A PRESSURE WASHER to wash your car as it pushes contaminants under the rubbers making the car a rust bucket in a much shorter time period , all the young people down at car wash obviously don’t give a hoot about this as they are probably not gong to try & keep there cars for 5 years , let alone 20 . It’s also a good idea if having door trims removed for regulator replacement or speaker upgrades to clean & wipe any crap away & spray lanolin into the intrusion bars & coat the inside skin whilst also checking any drain holes are clear . We have had to cut a bit of rusty metal out of the door skin & prime paint , this happened due to the foam backing on the door trim staying soaking wet after periods of heavy rain & depending on where the car is parked & the angle of the vehicle on the road , water will pool & sit inside the door until either the door is opened or the car is driven & moving around to get the water out , you will be surprised how much water can sit in the door if left sitting in one spot if your car sits idle outside for periods of more than a week , it’s a good idea to open all the doors on a nice warm day & dry out any moisture . Under the door sills of a falcon there is 3 layers of steel & just pulling the rubber plugs on the outer will not get rust protection into the whole cavity , the Jimmy hack channel will show a cut cross section of the sill & explain what is required to get into all of the sill cavity for rust prevention . Hope this helps with keeping the rust out of a few more falcons , as seen in older fords & holdens , its the biggest enemy when it comes to keeping a car alive for decades , the mechanical repairs are in comparison , fairly straight forward .
Blue looks good on a XR6 50 series witch they called an XR50
Thank you yes I agree I love the silver and white also
Nice build, can’t find any vids about it since this one, how’s it go now?
Hey yes I havnt uploaded on this car in a while , next update coming soon car has been going well but not perfect , goes good! Having some electrical problems now
Hard decision mate but i think you made the right decision for the long run. Good luck with your awesome car!
Thankyou so much , yes hopefully stays reliable now !
Love the colour of your car mate. That blue is so eye catching.
Thankyou ! I Agrreee
Nice. But i would have painted the valve cover Ford Blue.
Loved your vid man An love the Nitro Fg. Mint jealous I only have Na Fg .
Thank you! Na are still great bro ! Which colour is yours ?
@@georgeauto Is Same as yours Nitro 2008. Have had it Tuned an Fitted XForce stainless Header's an full 2&1/2 cat back exhaust.
Small photo of it on my profile pic there I can c at my end here.
@@jasonorlowski1775 yes I see it !! Still sick
@@georgeauto yeah Cheers 🍻 ended up being great on fuel economy an NM of Torque but not huge power.
Glad it's working out for you now, but how on earth did your original shop put that rocker cover back on knowing full well the repercussions? Then proceed to install a few more dollars worth of parts, slap a tune on then whisk you out the door?
They did warn me of it , I’m guessing they already started all of the other mods like exhaust / turbo etc before opening up the rocker cover and it was too late
@@georgeauto As someone in the performance game, that is still inexcusable in my book unfortunately. If you would have come into any reputable shop who has been built on a focus on quality to it's customer's & not a shop purely based on the "high turnover, see you later type of stuff", you wouldn't have left with your car that day the sludge was found. They should have refused to let a car leave that way without coming up with a solution to the problem. Nonetheless, you're in great hands with Tunnel Vision
From the inner west of Melbourne here. Love the XR6's but don't own one (Aurion driver .... please don't judge me), so where do you get E85 from? I mainly fill up at Shell/BP and haven't noticed it sold at any one them. More of an independent petrol station thing?
haha no judgement mate at all! they are great cars, usually United is the go to place
A story all too familiar. Looks awesome now though! Could you comment on the rough cost of the rebuild ? Just a ball park number?
Cheers
Nice car, what do you have to do to the gearbox and rest of the driveline to handle that kind of power?
Thankyou , well box is stock for now, surprisingly still holding up , its all in the tune and how you drive it , the motor is built for 700-900kw but I'm not pushing that amount as my turbo is now maxxed out. Ideally a built gearbox and race spec tail shaft is the way to go, then the diff , axles etc need to be upgraded, about 20k
Awesome bro…
Thankyou
End of the year ill have an fg im too keen.
Had 6 b series so far i need a new look
Late AF reply but finally got to you, did you end up getting your FG yet ?
Wow great build. I don't get how or why people skimp on oil changes especially with performance engines. Looks awesome now mate 👍
I know , so bad but I guess life gets in the way and forget , everyone has different situations i guess
Congrats
Thanks 🙏
Aye I'm in the intro
Where ?
Well done George. I would of done the same bro. You can’t go wrong and it will be reliable as moving forward. Mine is making 600kw atw and believe me it’s enough as a daily especially when it looks like a sleeper. I’m interested to see what yours will make on the dyno. Try put it on a hub dyno if you can and that will give you a exact power reading. Good luck mate and good job 👍
That’s tufff !! I don’t think I’ll get anywhere near that as I’m staying a 98 tune for now
Sick video bro, just maybe turn the background music down a touch when your talking, I had to really listen sometimes,
Can't wait to see this thing on the dyno.
Cheers for the vid 🤘
Thankyou and thanks for the feedback I’ll keep that in mind for sure
Who done the detailing?? it looks amazing .
Thankyou ! we did it !
How much did the built motor set you back as I’m looking into getting mine built
best to give Jason a call mate and see as there are many factors including parts availablity, even Maxx performance can do one for you if you like youre looking at around 16-20k thats a super rough estimate
Hey mate great video glad it’s all coming together! If you don’t mind me asking how much did the built engine cost you all up?
Thanks mate , shoot me an inbox on Instagram happy to chat
Dude what was the total build cost including ecu
20k plus
Lucky the gearbox is heaps better than out of the earlier ba and bf models actually im pretty sure that the the last versions of the bf had a zf gearbox, but that zf is a awesome bit of kit much stronger gearbox's than the ba and bf had that was the weak link in the drive train on the ba and bf's and good choice on the haltech ecu ,do it once and do it properly bro and that sounds like exactly what you are doing 👌top shit bro and go the mighty barra
I live in the states how come no one uses the atomic kits like the 998 kit with the fatrods exc. I have a 280z that I am Barra swapping and was wondering why no one using atomic
Some people do use them , some people had issues with them also , weather it’s fitting error or somthing else not sure , my engine builder with this combo running consistent low 8s factory timing gear
@@georgeauto I was just asking I have a quote for a very reasonable kit from them shipped to the states . Looking to make about 800rwhp and absolute max of 1000hp. I will will be doing he build myself.
@@hellhawk4680 yeah no worries you’ll get mixed reviews and advice
Great video man! Just one thing, turn that music down a tad, I can hear it more than you.
Thanks for the feedback , will do in future
I hope you asked the shop that "put on the Staged.. er i mean stage 3-4 tuned kit" on your car to please explain.
Common-sense says that
any performance shop worth half a grain of salt, would have stopped as soon as they seen the schmootz under the timing cover and scalled you about it.
Not ignore it, to then go on and install thousands more dollars worth of mods to said engine..
Yes it wasn't ideal, and I didn't really know about oil sludge before this happened, and learnt a lot. I just thoought it wasn't that bad and it would wash out, they did warn me of it happening though and sent pics.
Great video once again George,
Nice setup, hopefully & touch wood your ZF Holds out , , Or did Jason calibrate & tune the auto at the same time ,
Enjoy 🤙
Thankyou sorry for late AF reply , touch wood ZF is still holding out! done over 32,000ks on the motor also pushing over 500kwkw, but yeah i think tailshaft and box soon
That's a hell of an engine build! What's your plan for the driveline?
Hey super late reply apologies , I want to go a built ZF also , probably a 15k operation though , twin diff hat , axles , and GJ tailshaft , thinking bigger turbo now also , current one is maxxed out :(
Looks like my brothers old Xr next to it ??
Did he buy it recently ? I had to sell that beast to pay for this motor :(
@@georgeauto he sold it about 2 years ago I’d say was pretty tuff wonder if it was his
@@MrAjs346 I bought it off an older Phillipino guy , car was a bit trashed and not looked after , was also totally stock at the time
what was the rough cost of the built motor if delivered to Tunnel vision?
Hey mate best to give Jason a call as prices can change , let’s just say rougly 15k for long block rebuilt
Mate sick as I would have done the same if your gonna do it once your gonna wanna do it properly
Yeah the bois , thanks for your comment
Wait whats the 50th anniversary for ?
You've had falcons since early 60s ?
50th year of falcons this is a 2010
@George Auto I seem to have lost track of time that just makes me feel old😪
I think Micheal from quickbits would give him a run for his money on being the best for the barra
Yeah I've seen Michael in some videos, looks like a really knowledgeable guy, I bet he is also amazing at what he does, Im not trying to make it a competition of who is the best, just wanted to say that Jason has a really good reputation when it comes to engine building / car builds
Lmao
Did you go aftermarket cams?
Hey no stayed with the stock cams #daily and don’t really
Need them for the power I’m gonna push
@@georgeauto stock FG cams love 1000hp anyway bro..
No need for Cams unless you wanna have that sick chopp sound, mate's G6ET makes 750kw and has stock turbo cams stock turbo pistons
@@s4ss.m8 is your mates stock pistons still in one piece? That's amazing they can handle 750kw.
Great stuff. Really looking forward to seeing any tune / dyno results. Are you going to run it over the 1/4??
Thanks yes tune and numbers should be next video, hopefully happening in the next few days, then ill get another video together. Ill see how I go with quarter mile stuff, I don't want to break it again, really need to update my diff to the twin diff hat, I cracked my cradle on my BF launching it off the foot brake last time
How's this combo going?
Yeah going really good, believe it or not I've done about 32,000ks on the motor already, next video coming soon, sorry super late reply
Where’s a Dyno vid or track run bro?
Would you be open to sharing the costing of this mate?
yeah add me on insta george auto inbox me if you want to chat
By the way that motor is smick
Hey mate noticed you got the carbon steering wheel was that hard to install
Hey no it wasn’t , juts a little tricky undoing the clip at the bottom of the wheel you have to use a certain technique
@@georgeauto thanks mate definitely want to get one.... Loving the videos keep them coming 👌
It hasn’t skipped a tooth the cams are binding I’m amazed max performance don’t know about this issue on bara’s.
You could do a basic freshen up on the motor rings, bearing and make sure they hone the cam tunnels and linish the cams.
Gas motor option is awful on a nice car like this . You’d scrape at least 10k off the value.
Take a shot every time he says Jason
we'd all be on the ground
Nice!
Thanks bro !!
Whats a rough figure of getting this work done if your willing to say. cheers.
Hey shoot me in inbox on insta if you wana chat
Yeah boi
yeah da boissss
Cool ✌😎
Thanks 🙏
How much did it cost
Hey mate if you don't mind me asking how much did this knocked you back roughly? Doesn't have to be 100% 12-15k possibly? I've also got an FG MKii that I rarely drive and overbuilding for future mods is such a good idea.
People are sensitive about cost questions I don’t know why
@@tiestovic I don't get it either. When someone ask me about cost of the mods I'll tell them straight. No harm in throwing out the figures so people can save up and have a goal etc. Each to their own I guess 🤷♂️
@@hellothere4342 100%. I’ve already tried asking the question to him and it’s been ignored lol. I’m also looking at getting Jason @ tunnel vision to build me a motor pretty much the same as his 800rwkw capable so wouldn’t mind a ball park figure as to what he got charged
Hey mate totally looked over this and didn't see it with all the comment, sorry if you felt ignored , motor was roughly 20k not inculding labour to pull out and put in
@@georgeauto nah man it's all good man. I ended up ordering Atomic 998 long so that way I'll have a spare engine and I can pull the original engine out as I get some spare time and at my own pace.