Given how cheap they are it would have been a good time to drop the valve body (removes another 500ml of fluid) and do the mechatronic sleeve and the 5 valve body seals while the pan was off. Agree with another comment about refilling temperature, a scan tool to read the temp while confirming the level would have been good move.
I would never ever change the fluid in these unless I did a full complete flush otherwise the exercise is a waste of money. What about the cooler and torque converter? There might be the same amount of fluid in there as what was changed.
Could be wrong, however I believe ford removed the drain plug in order to prevent people from servicing them. As from dealer they claimed that the ZF never needed to be serviced and had a life long guarantee. This is what the dealer said to me when I picked up my FGX.
ok that's something I didn't know, this one feels so much better after the service, shifting better and no convertor slip so I think it helped, thanks for your comment
@George Auto I have a white xr50 turbo 420rwkw sedan with a xr8 bonnet and the standard 19inch wheels if ya see me around Port melb or any car cruises don't be shy to yell out too me man haha
On the subject of oil, discussed this with a transmission specialist who only used the ZF branded oil. As he pointed out, they use it because of warrenty issues. ZF doesn't manufacture it's own oil it's outsourced and made by 'someone' that produces lots of other oils etc. These days there are various producers of an equivalent if not premium priced and ZF branded oil, which will come from someone who produces oils etc... And meets all specifications. Off course everyone has the option of using the ZF branded fluid, it's their/your call so nobody get upset. There maybe those that recall how you can buy those OEM parts from the dealer for $ or by the identical item elsewhere for less. His refill method is fine, maybe if the car was left outside in - 20 overnight but by the time you have been filling it up, start it, run through the gears etc it's at temp, and yes we do have one of those handheld guns to read temp. You could replace the sleeves under the valve body etc but generally these extra services are avoided because of the possibility of things just going wrong, the if it ain't broke... Though there are valid reasons for that service. Incidentally if on your drive, one of those large under bed storage bins works great for draining, B&m make a drainplug you can retrofit.
Love the content man 😏🤙🏻 but just wanted to add your car would of had the steel pan stock, it was only early FGs that had the plastic pan, and just a FYI most steel pan conversions have the drain bung for that future service convenience 😎 also just a FYI the oil level needs to be topped up after running through the gears and the temp range is between 30 - 34°C, if level is topped up any colder or hotter the oil level will either be too full or too low
@@georgeauto i have a saas trans oil temp guage in my car but the numbers start at 50 degrees c, i just take it out for a 5 minute drive and put it back on hoist and open filler bung and squirt more oil in till it comes out and put bung back in and its done.
@@farmer3242 would be way too warm, you'd be under filling it as the oil would of expanded way more giving a false level, they only take a few minutes at idle to come up to 30°
@@GENE_THE_NEMES1S yes i have since been told to refill it from stone cold then put in air on hoist running in drive and pull bung out and fill it till oil comes out. I did this yesterday with a mate to help me with my fgx and got another 2.5-3 litres in it. When it was cold the trans was shifting erraticly until it warmed up and was fine when warm. I havnt test driven it yet to see if its better now that it has more oil in it. But i have learned something. Thanks
I daily my bf and take it to Powercruise and powerplay every time Queensland raceway and I get my mechanic to service the gearbox every 50,000 km and I have no problem with it I have a trans cooler as well. The metal covers are the go because you only have to put a gasket in when you take the pan off
At least it's been serviced in the past as that's not the original pan gasket and filter. Personally when I do these I check the fluid at operating temp around 45 degrees. Also Penrite Multitrans LV works well in ZF's and late model GM boxes.
Thanks yes we did check it when filling as I have a haltech gauge , I got the trans serviced when I got the car I think it’s contributed to helping save the box , thanks for your comment
Why did you lift the car fron the body panels on the hoist instead of the chassis rails . . . ? FYI - There are steel pans available with a built in drain plug and there is also a sump bolt torque and numer sequence for the sump not to leak. The final measure of oil is done with the oil temp above 30 deg C and below 40 deg C.
I didn’t do it mate the mechanic did , whatever he didn’t seemed to work fine, we let it heat up there was a lot I cut out as it was dragging on , Tran’s feels a lot nicer now
yes I think its luck of the draw with the gearbox, and it also depends how you drive it, sticky tyres also harder on all driveline parts, I had a 300rwkw BF gearbox die instantly after we turned it up, this guy touch wood is still going now around 680rwhp
Thought ATF is red in Colour ? Did the mechanic flush out the Torque Converter ? XR6 Turbo that have 6 speed ZF transmission usually have 4 litres of ATF in the pan and around 8 litres in Torque converter.
No we didn’t drain the convertor , he did mention connecting up to the AN lines , but we weren’t prepared for it , thing shifts way better now after service so better then it was
Starting the pan bolts with a air ratchet? Red hot 🥵. We were always told when the ZF came out in the BF that it was sealed for life. I always questioned what they thought life was and never got a solid answer from the FSTI
Hey bro just wanna say it’s mad you daily drive your car and put on the ks daily, these cars are meant to be enjoyed because they won’t be around forever. Way too many people are too precious, Can always get shit replaced etc as long as it’s been looked after. Keep pumping out the vids
Yeah she’s been warm , the trans cooler has worked wonder though I usually keep an eye on the temps while I’m driving , the time it heats up the most is stop start driving in traffic hot day seen about 90 degrees at it highest
Good video agian mate 👍. A good 6 speed to handle you power will be over 10k! A turbo 400 will be probably same if not more.issue with turbo 400 is you will dramatically loose your current fuel consumption. As soon as you put a sticky tyre on it you will start to see issues with standard stuff. It's a slippery slope as soon as you go over 400rwkw , adds up real quick 🤑🤑🤑
This is what's keeping me at 360kw. Because once you want a reliable 500kw barra. You're going to want to build the engine. 10K depending on workshops, then another 8-10K for building the box. 2K barra tho hahaha
Thanks mate , yes I know I actually said all of this that you just mentioned on the drive to Chris workshop at the start but I cut it out coz I felt like it was dragging a bit
@ReaLzEdits yes mate 500 is scary fast but adds up real quick.for the price it will cost you it nearly makes sense to sell up and buy one already built
hey mare its the Kayhan V5 they dropped the V6 version now its got a heap new features and updates, see the link: 247parts.com.au/product/car-stereo-with-satnav-for-ford-falcon-fg-mk2-version-6-8″-inch/
How many powercruise , rolling racing and drags has this car seen? Yeah sure it makes 500rwkw but how do you drive it ? Why don’t you just buy a built box? If you’ve gone this far , what’s stopping you ? I could blow that box in a few hours
Not much man it’s my daily driver ( it’s really just money at the moment it will be a good 10-15k for a proper box that will also handle bigger turbo also in future
@@georgeauto it’s just a matter of time mate , I blew my standard box at 355rwkw at powercruise, I’m making your power but with a built box and tail shaft , you’re also on the verge of blowing your standard engine ( same as me ) but when my blows I’ll build it , you’ve got to commit and accept that you’ve started something and we both know you’ll finish it , don’t tip toe your car around , drive it to enjoy it , cause you won’t be able to use any of that power properly other than the dyno , just bite the bullet
@@lloydchristmas2326 thanks mate , motor is built on mine , she’s also running a haltech plug and play , 1650ccs with twin pump process west surge, diff it getting done next , IMS hat etc , box is holding up for now but will do it I reckon in the next year , car was stock a year ago I’ve pumped a bit of cash into it just have other priorities as well , thanks for your comment mate appreciate it
@@georgeauto man you are so close , at least all you have to do now is the box and you’ve got a tuff street package ! Your engine and fuel system can handle it , my box cost 8.5k from monsta torque in WA ( got it shipped to Sydney ) If I was you I would go easy on it , save for the box , so when it does go bang it’s not a surprise and you’re ready to upgrade , than it’s finished and you can stop spending money on it and feed your kids , pay your mortgage like the rest of us lol
@@lloydchristmas2326 did you have to do the 2000km run in procedure around town limited to 3000rpm for the zf to relearn the shifts? Final form dude talked about that, it sounded painful.
I was told 2n half years ago my zf box was toast and couldnt be serviced bwahahaha ive still got same box i just let my xr8 bf mk 2 idle for about 10 minuites foot on braek put through gear auto cycle and beutuful every day STILL BWAHAHAHA
This is how a performance car needs to be treated and looked after - no stupid wings, rice or big wings etc - just 100% raw power.
Thank you yes that’s how I feel ! I think if a car is faster in my eyes it looks better
Love these mate! Good to see your uploading
Glad you like them! Thanks for your comment ! Do u have one or ?
Given how cheap they are it would have been a good time to drop the valve body (removes another 500ml of fluid) and do the mechatronic sleeve and the 5 valve body seals while the pan was off. Agree with another comment about refilling temperature, a scan tool to read the temp while confirming the level would have been good move.
Thank you , I have a gauge in the car that shows the temp , maybe I should go back and check the levels again
I would never ever change the fluid in these unless I did a full complete flush otherwise the exercise is a waste of money. What about the cooler and torque converter? There might be the same amount of fluid in there as what was changed.
Could be wrong, however I believe ford removed the drain plug in order to prevent people from servicing them. As from dealer they claimed that the ZF never needed to be serviced and had a life long guarantee. This is what the dealer said to me when I picked up my FGX.
ok that's something I didn't know, this one feels so much better after the service, shifting better and no convertor slip so I think it helped, thanks for your comment
Just serviced my ZF yesterday on my BF xr6 turbo. Perfect timing mate haha
No way ! This was yesterday also
Love the thumbnail bagged 😎🔥
Its making me want to do it I was just looking at it thinking that !
@@georgeauto looks so sexy bro 😎
George keep up with the uploading man love it 👌
Thank you ! Gonna try be more consistent
@George Auto I have a white xr50 turbo 420rwkw sedan with a xr8 bonnet and the standard 19inch wheels if ya see me around Port melb or any car cruises don't be shy to yell out too me man haha
@@michelecursio4213 I’ve seen a white one around at little river servo once not sure if that was you ? Gauges on icc ?
@@georgeauto Na no gauges just the e boost sitting on the dash
On the subject of oil, discussed this with a transmission specialist who only used the ZF branded oil. As he pointed out, they use it because of warrenty issues.
ZF doesn't manufacture it's own oil it's outsourced and made by 'someone' that produces lots of other oils etc. These days there are various producers of an equivalent if not premium priced and ZF branded oil, which will come from someone who produces oils etc... And meets all specifications.
Off course everyone has the option of using the ZF branded fluid, it's their/your call so nobody get upset.
There maybe those that recall how you can buy those OEM parts from the dealer for $ or by the identical item elsewhere for less.
His refill method is fine, maybe if the car was left outside in - 20 overnight but by the time you have been filling it up, start it, run through the gears etc it's at temp, and yes we do have one of those handheld guns to read temp.
You could replace the sleeves under the valve body etc but generally these extra services are avoided because of the possibility of things just going wrong, the if it ain't broke... Though there are valid reasons for that service.
Incidentally if on your drive, one of those large under bed storage bins works great for draining, B&m make a drainplug you can retrofit.
Thanks for your info mate very helpful, ill take that all onboard,
Good work there George.
From William Mount Gambier South Australia 🇦🇺
Thanks Bill! from Zimbabwe
Love the content man 😏🤙🏻 but just wanted to add your car would of had the steel pan stock, it was only early FGs that had the plastic pan, and just a FYI most steel pan conversions have the drain bung for that future service convenience 😎 also just a FYI the oil level needs to be topped up after running through the gears and the temp range is between 30 - 34°C, if level is topped up any colder or hotter the oil level will either be too full or too low
Ok thank you 🙏
@@georgeauto i have a saas trans oil temp guage in my car but the numbers start at 50 degrees c, i just take it out for a 5 minute drive and put it back on hoist and open filler bung and squirt more oil in till it comes out and put bung back in and its done.
@@farmer3242 would be way too warm, you'd be under filling it as the oil would of expanded way more giving a false level, they only take a few minutes at idle to come up to 30°
@@GENE_THE_NEMES1S yes i have since been told to refill it from stone cold then put in air on hoist running in drive and pull bung out and fill it till oil comes out. I did this yesterday with a mate to help me with my fgx and got another 2.5-3 litres in it. When it was cold the trans was shifting erraticly until it warmed up and was fine when warm. I havnt test driven it yet to see if its better now that it has more oil in it. But i have learned something. Thanks
The trans fluid level should also be checked at 40°c...
ok thanks for that input I will do next time for sure
100%.
Love the vids! How much did the service end up costing you?
Glad you love them , he actually hasn’t sent me the invoice yet so not sure
I daily my bf and take it to Powercruise and powerplay every time Queensland raceway and I get my mechanic to service the gearbox every 50,000 km and I have no problem with it I have a trans cooler as well.
The metal covers are the go because you only have to put a gasket in when you take the pan off
Amazing mate thanks for that
At least it's been serviced in the past as that's not the original pan gasket and filter. Personally when I do these I check the fluid at operating temp around 45 degrees. Also Penrite Multitrans LV works well in ZF's and late model GM boxes.
Thanks yes we did check it when filling as I have a haltech gauge , I got the trans serviced when I got the car I think it’s contributed to helping save the box , thanks for your comment
Why did you lift the car fron the body panels on the hoist instead of the chassis rails . . . ?
FYI - There are steel pans available with a built in drain plug and there is also a sump bolt torque and numer sequence for the sump not to leak. The final measure of oil is done with the oil temp above 30 deg C and below 40 deg C.
I didn’t do it mate the mechanic did , whatever he didn’t seemed to work fine, we let it heat up there was a lot I cut out as it was dragging on , Tran’s feels a lot nicer now
I've heard if you find a good tuner an get them to tune the boost to come in gradually you can run stock gearboxes an won't hurt them with 500-600 hp
yes I think its luck of the draw with the gearbox, and it also depends how you drive it, sticky tyres also harder on all driveline parts, I had a 300rwkw BF gearbox die instantly after we turned it up, this guy touch wood is still going now around 680rwhp
Thought ATF is red in Colour ? Did the mechanic flush out the Torque Converter ? XR6 Turbo that have 6 speed ZF transmission usually have 4 litres of ATF in the pan and around 8 litres in Torque converter.
No we didn’t drain the convertor , he did mention connecting up to the AN lines , but we weren’t prepared for it , thing shifts way better now after service so better then it was
Starting the pan bolts with a air ratchet? Red hot 🥵. We were always told when the ZF came out in the BF that it was sealed for life. I always questioned what they thought life was and never got a solid answer from the FSTI
Seems to have worked fine Chris worked for Ford for a while so he knows what he is doing
I’ve serviced it twice now after owning it for juts over a year
Hey bro just wanna say it’s mad you daily drive your car and put on the ks daily, these cars are meant to be enjoyed because they won’t be around forever.
Way too many people are too precious, Can always get shit replaced etc as long as it’s been looked after.
Keep pumping out the vids
Exactly my thinking mate thank you for your comment !
That transmission oil has sure been a little warm. A bit smelly too?
Yeah she’s been warm , the trans cooler has worked wonder though I usually keep an eye on the temps while I’m driving , the time it heats up the most is stop start driving in traffic hot day seen about 90 degrees at it highest
Good video agian mate 👍. A good 6 speed to handle you power will be over 10k! A turbo 400 will be probably same if not more.issue with turbo 400 is you will dramatically loose your current fuel consumption. As soon as you put a sticky tyre on it you will start to see issues with standard stuff. It's a slippery slope as soon as you go over 400rwkw , adds up real quick 🤑🤑🤑
This is what's keeping me at 360kw. Because once you want a reliable 500kw barra. You're going to want to build the engine. 10K depending on workshops, then another 8-10K for building the box. 2K barra tho hahaha
Thanks mate , yes I know I actually said all of this that you just mentioned on the drive to Chris workshop at the start but I cut it out coz I felt like it was dragging a bit
@ReaLzEdits yes mate 500 is scary fast but adds up real quick.for the price it will cost you it nearly makes sense to sell up and buy one already built
What sort of tune did you do on zf gearbox
Maxx performance did it so not sure exactly
Hi mate what icc unit have you got in your car?
hey mare its the Kayhan V5 they dropped the V6 version now its got a heap new features and updates, see the link: 247parts.com.au/product/car-stereo-with-satnav-for-ford-falcon-fg-mk2-version-6-8″-inch/
Evry time I see a fg xr50 in real life or on yt like yours. It makes me want one even more 🥹
Love it I think it’s the universe telling you to get one ☝️
@@georgeauto you never know 😂
How much was the service
Invoice just came in $600 , the box feels way better now , changing better and feels like it’s gripping better too 👌
@@georgeauto what’s the business name of where you went? Keen on doing my fg box
@@Barrapotter nezzi motors
Hi mate my question is zf 6 ok push power after tune any issues with sift
Yes if it’s tuned right as I said 670rwhp on this one over a year , heaps of Ks I do respect it though ,
Turbo versions are stronger then NA
When you say 'stock', do you mean 'stock-n/a' or 'stock-turbo'?
stock turbo box
if the 6 speed doesnt last could always upgrade to a zf8hp70 its better than the zf6hp26 that ford decided to use
Ok that’s something I think hasn’t been done before
interesting idea
anyone know what head unit he had?
Kayhan V5 , I’m doing a video on it soon
Mine milkshaked after I had it serviced
That’s sucks man , external cooler I think is a must or make sure you’re replacing the factory cooler
He laughs about cross threading whilst not even getting the thread started by hand before using the electric impact..
Yes you’re right and they all went in perfect 👌
I know right gave me anxiety right there using electric to start the thread
So how much did it end up costing you?
Hey waiting for the invoice tomorrow morning
How many powercruise , rolling racing and drags has this car seen? Yeah sure it makes 500rwkw but how do you drive it ?
Why don’t you just buy a built box? If you’ve gone this far , what’s stopping you ?
I could blow that box in a few hours
Not much man it’s my daily driver ( it’s really just money at the moment it will be a good 10-15k for a proper box that will also handle bigger turbo also in future
@@georgeauto it’s just a matter of time mate , I blew my standard box at 355rwkw at powercruise, I’m making your power but with a built box and tail shaft , you’re also on the verge of blowing your standard engine ( same as me ) but when my blows I’ll build it , you’ve got to commit and accept that you’ve started something and we both know you’ll finish it , don’t tip toe your car around , drive it to enjoy it , cause you won’t be able to use any of that power properly other than the dyno , just bite the bullet
@@lloydchristmas2326 thanks mate , motor is built on mine , she’s also running a haltech plug and play , 1650ccs with twin pump process west surge, diff it getting done next , IMS hat etc , box is holding up for now but will do it I reckon in the next year , car was stock a year ago I’ve pumped a bit of cash into it just have other priorities as well , thanks for your comment mate appreciate it
@@georgeauto man you are so close , at least all you have to do now is the box and you’ve got a tuff street package ! Your engine and fuel system can handle it , my box cost 8.5k from monsta torque in WA ( got it shipped to Sydney )
If I was you I would go easy on it , save for the box , so when it does go bang it’s not a surprise and you’re ready to upgrade , than it’s finished and you can stop spending money on it and feed your kids , pay your mortgage like the rest of us lol
@@lloydchristmas2326 did you have to do the 2000km run in procedure around town limited to 3000rpm for the zf to relearn the shifts? Final form dude talked about that, it sounded painful.
I was told 2n half years ago my zf box was toast and couldnt be serviced bwahahaha ive still got same box i just let my xr8 bf mk 2 idle for about 10 minuites foot on braek put through gear auto cycle and beutuful every day STILL BWAHAHAHA
I work next door
Nice ! At the glass place or other side ?
@@georgeauto other side
This has 680 hpthats heaps
Yes but need to turn it up haha
i have a g6e turbo got it at 218000 ks shifts like its brand new aha i have serviced it also
Amazing ! The zf is a great box I’m happy with it so far