This channel is such a double-edged sword. The information is so good and concisely put, that I spend hours scouring the internet for deals on parts that I don't really need and modifications that don't really need to be done. But it's winter here in Michigan, and I don't really have shit else to do. Lol. Do I really need to put $5000 of parts into a $4400 motorcycle? Don't answer that. Please.
@kavinsp This guy's delivery and how he simplifies the topics makes it easy for this old man to understand. I've watched dozens of his vidoes on motorcycles. Well done !!
Great video as always. I eliminated two teeth on the rear sprocket of my Wee and it was nice having the RPM go down on the highway but climbing hills sucked
I literally did not know you could do this. Very informative. Would have been great on my old FZS600. Great video(s). Keep it up! PS can you do a video on like dealing with electrical issues and how to examine wiring harnesses?
Very good video. I just got a 88 GSX1100F that my wife and I hope to tour around on and for me anyhow it feels like there should be a 6th gear because 4000 rpm at 100 kph just seems too high. It's not like it doesn't have enough power to change things up so it is maybe at 3500 rpm at the same speed.
Noob question : Does changing gearing affect where the powerband is? Like if you gear a sportbike down for more torque and less top end is it effectively moving the power band down the rev range? Or does it apply increased acceleration across the whole rev range and not effect the power band specifically?
No, powerband is to do with the engine itself and how it makes power. Gearing just affects how that power is put down. Easy to think of if you use a bicycle. When in a high gear (ie low gear ratio) its hard to get the bike to accelerate quick, but in a low gear it is super easy and you can even wheelie if you are not careful. The powerband (ie your legs) never changes, just how quickly youre in it and what affect it has on turning the wheels. So in effect, shorter gearing will make the bike feel more torquey, but you will go through the gear a lot quicker and ultimately have less top speed. hope that helps!
I only use sprockets that have odd number of tooths to have more even wear. I only would go for shorter ratio if the power of the bike not enough in first gear, or on a track bike if the top gear(s) too tall for the straight; then I would use bigger rear sprocket and longer chain if needed than to use smaller front sprocket. IMHO the only good reason to go for shorter gearing, if the bike being slow or sluggish when used around the peak torque and power rpm range in any gear. With my 1000cc bikes I always chosen a bigger front sprocket in the end, even if I have tried a smaller first - getting to the twisties with a lower cruise rpm and better mileage matters for me, as in the twisties I certainly can do one more downshift if I want to. I can live with the worse acceleration if even the first gear is too tall for a few slow corners...
In some cases, it is necessary to reduce the # of teeth of the front sprocket cuz increasing the # of teeth on the rear is not practical (too expensive) or possible (mainly for clearance issues). Also, increasing the # of teeth of the rear sprocket drastically may also wear out the chain faster cuz it increases chain speed for a given road speed. For example, if the stock rear sprocket was 40 teeth but it was changed to 50 teeth, at any given speed (50 MPH, 100 MPH, 200 KPH...), the chain would be moving 25% faster. This may increase wear since there are more times the chain and teeth "mesh" with each other.
Nope that's not the way it works. If you increase the number of teeth on the rear and maintain the same RPM you will just slow the bike down. To speed back up you will have to speed up the engine which will make the FRONT sprocket spin faster just to keep the back sprocket turning at your original number of turns.
Hey I have a question. I have a yamaha yzf r125. That was lowered as it was high ish for me. It wasn't lowered much. However when trying to shift from 1st to second I seem to keep hitting N sometimes it's more then once which a few secs. Only happens between 1 and 2 any tips please 🙏 😊
Hi, I just want to ask. If i change the sprocket size of my YZFR15 V2 from 15/47 to 14/49 does it have a affect or change in reading on the speed meter?
Yes...and that deals only directly with the front sprocket change as chances are with it being directly connected with the transmission shaft, the speed sensor in which is being read deals directly with that. Thus without a Speedohealer or another similar product, the faster you go, the higher the actual difference in real world speed you're doing versus what that stock speedometer in your stock cluster gauge will read One tooth count going UP on my cb 500x 2019 from 15 to 16 tooth = 10% differences in speed readings in stock speedometer in my gauge cluster versus actual gps real world mph at 55 on the speedometer but 60 on the gps in 6th gear. You can adjust the rear sprocket to almost any size that you can find without it messing with the speedometer's reading accuracy. In your exact example would mean your stock speedo will show you're going faster at speeds 40mph and above ( bigger the speed..the bigger the difference), than you're actually doing given you're going down one in the front and up two in the rear...thus that will give you slightly faster acceleration at teh cost of higher rpms needed for the same original whatever speeds above a certain speed range such as 30 or more mph.
Guys I'm doing -1 in the front & +2 in the rear on my 2015 Z1000. The OEM chain has 112 links. Now that I'm changing my sprocket set up, will I need a longer chain or the 112 chain is good to go? Need this answered asap. Will be vv grateful my fellow moto - people.
i need to buy a new chain and sprocket for my bike soon can any one shed some light on what are the best brands? i dont want my chain snapping or sprocket wearing fast
Are individual transmission gears sold online in case you only want to replace a single gear ratio? The ratios from 1st to 4th gears on the DRZ400SM are fine but 5th gear is too short. I dont want to change the final drive, I just want to increase that top gear so the engine wont rev so high on the highway
Don't expect it to be available. I wish I could do the same thing as what you want. You could pave the path by taking your gears out (2 gears need to be made, as they mesh together) and having a machinist custom make some new ones. Get the dimensions of the new ones, and a supplier should be able to replicate them more cheaply. This whole endeavor would cost several hundred, if not a thousand dollars most likely. If you are good at making drawings, you could draw up your own gears though and the process gets a whole lot cheaper!
I have a question... Let's say I have a sproket set of 34-15 (2.26) and another set if 31-14 (2.21).. assuming the 0.05 is neglected... What's the difference between both of them.. the 31-14 set should have a shorter chain right.. will there be any difference caused by a shorter chain ?
Hehe nice vid, its good thing to do, a friend of mine bought as first ride a gsxr 750, but he wanned 600, but owner before changed rear fairing ans painted so there wasnt number for engine size wich sais what is "model" 600 750 or 1000 on suzuki, and friend dint watch what owner writte before he contacted hem to buy, and he rode a 600 same model before and can remember a little the feel of pull from 600, when he start to ride hes new bike he says he notice a small difference not big just a arround 10% it pulls stronger in suzu powerband, we watched rided and it runs great but with saim amlunt of gass it goes a bit beter than 600... but anyway it is good thing latter we found it is 750 engine haha 🤣 and becouse he is noob allso i am still noob even i ride coupe of years now, he bought front sprocked bigger 1 tooth, and bike pulls wery similar as 600, and meybe gained few kmh faster bike 😁 and wich is great he if want more power he doesnt need to put powercommander and tune for more, just put back sprocket 🤭 but it is good idea if someone like the look of for example of 1kcc sport bike but is begginer and ride 80% in city trafic, its great idea what he or she can do to reduce torque wich in my opinion is great, i ride 600 k7 gsxr, but i wanned that 750 for futire but tought it is a bit strong even threre is a minor very difference in "stock" form bike i am talkin, so just put sprockets that will gain you more speed and reduce torque and latter when you think u want mlre just put back stock one's, i kinda like this my friend idea what he did, soon i am gettin 750 but for rest of ppl who want for example stronger bike just becouse of that wider tire and looks but are begginers, dont wory buy it and just make it a bit weaker, i know what point is in 750 or 1kcc engine but hey its not that u are weakening ur bike by ecu or some engine parts... its not it is just some small parts that does not effect engine real performance and workin so dont wory ^_^ i am sad i didnt buyed before 750 and did this ^_^ and now just put stock for regular more power
I have a 2000 Honda rc51...The first gear is really tall. My sprocket setup is a 16 front and a 40 rear sprocket.. and won't it change your speedo?... Mileage?
Not unless you're willing to disassemble your transmission and there are suitable gears, which would have to come from a factory race kit or the transmission of a compatible model. In other words, yes, but it'll be extremely challenging to do.
on city riding better go with stock I actually got worse fuel economy on smaller rear sprockets in the city but I got WAY BETTER Fuel Economy on the highway but if you live on a place where there's inclines everywhere I got better fuel economy with a bigger rear sprocket I ride a 74' Honda CB350
It's a parallel twin so it's a bit buzzy above 6500 rpm, so the idea was to gear it taller to bring the cruising RPM down to a smoother speed. Also, the speedo is crazy optimistic, so gearing it taller will help make it more accurate. Someone else commented already that a 43t sprocket is the hot ticket for this bike. Stock is 46t.
Why does company like ktm use 14:42 and 15:45 on their 200 390 lineup but that equals to both "3"... Why not stay with both 14:42 for both 200/390 or both 15:45? Tnx
It is likely due to different chain sizes and sprocket availability for off the shelf suppliers. Also, a 14/42 is lighter than a 15/45 but would be more likely to sling off lubricant from the more dramatic direction changes. The manufacturer may also select their sprocket sizes from how far away from the swingarm they want the chain to be. A thicker(height) swingarm makes the chain more likely to contact it, so they may pick the larger sprocket option even though the gearing is the same for that reason.
Motorcyclist Magazine I live in Bangladesh. In my country there are only permission for 165cc bikes. In my country the best sports bikes are CBR150R, GSX R150 and Yamaha R15 v3. The front tires of those bikes are 90,100 section and the rare tires are 130,140. I like fat tires. And I have CBR150R. So, which tire size will be fat and perfect for my bike. And How many milage have to sacrifice???
If your speedo runs off of the rear wheel, then the faster spinning sprocket is tricking your odometer into thinking it has traveled more miles than it actually has. 16 to 15 would be around a 6.5% difference. More likely the reason is that you were running in lower gears before to compensate for the taller gearing, and now you run in higher gears. Could also be a combination of both.
I agree the back sprocket can be harder to change for some, however be careful going with a smaller front sproket cause most bikes will chew up the rubber chain slider and dig into the spingarn causing some expensive repairs.
On my 2004 Kawasaki ZX-10R (17-39 stock sprockets), I went with -2, +11 (15-50 sprockets) and not only did those look cool, it made the bike MUCH more fun at lower speeds since I could get at the power MUCH quicker without having to go at license losing speeds. When not riding aggressively, I could easily shortshift all 6 gears at legal speeds but when I wanted to hammer it, I had all 6 gears in the speed range of the stock first 4 gears. The bike just "ate up" each gear quickly but still had a theoretical top speed of close to 150 MPH. Lots of fun. The 15-50 sprocket combo is a 3.33 final drive ratio so to get that with the stock 17 tooth front, I would need 57 teeth (3.35) which would have made it look like a stunt bike sprocket. Reducing the # of teeth on the front sprocket somewhat "hides" that it is geared down but a rear sprocket change is kinda obvious.
I replaced the stock 16t front sprocket on my 07 GS500F with a 14t sprocket and it makes a big difference in how the bike accelerates. I love this setup because I do more sporty riding than highway riding
Please explain about fork oils and which oil we use for better usability according to the ride style. Right now I am having problems with my suspension setup.
I dropped a tooth on the front sprocket of my little R3 and it completely changed the characteristic of the bike. And since I do a lot of canyon carving and street riding with it, I much prefer this set-up.
Pepsi Boy42 the OEM is 14 front 43 rear and I just swapped for a 13T takasago front sprocket and left the stock chain and rear sprocket since it all fits. However the speedo is rather enthusiastic reading 100kph when in reality its running about 93kph give or take. But doesn't really bother me since the speed limits in our island are more "guidelines" than actual rules to follow lol.
Yeah did 2 down and three up on my 2005 Triumph Daytona 650... It now is an insanely quick bike.. Yeah I can only do 156-158 top end... BUT I don't ever hit those speeds on the street... I can keep up with my buddies stock ZX14 from a standstill to about 130MPH... SO I am just fine with that...
Anyone have suggestions for a good gearing set up for a ninja 300 if I’m wanting to lower rpm’s at cruising speeds? I’m currently getting around 7k rpm at around 70mph and looking to lower that.
Changing the front is the easiest and best. YOU DON'T NEED MUCH. One tooth is a lot. My SV1000 was too tall so I DROPPED a tooth up front; my old Bandit 1200 was too SHORT (it's a 5- speed), so I went UP a tooth. Both brought the bikes in-line with how I ride. Be careful though! 1) make sure you have enough physical ROOM to increase front sprocket size... and 2) watch your chain slack on the swingarm marks. You could easily make your chain too short or long. PS - I never worked on a bike where you could "easily" swap front sprockets without at LEAST removing the rear wheel.
Another factor to consider when changing the front sprocket is chain life. Going taller in the front extends chain life significantly. Going shorter in the front decreases chain life significantly.
Well I went 2 down on the front and 3 up on the rear... OF my 2005 Triumph Daytona 650 about 20k miles ago... Chain and teeth are still just fine, yes the chain is getting near the point I will want to change it (measured the "stretch"), however it is still well within safe limits. I don't do any sort of wheelies... I do ride aggressively, and I purchased to spec parts. SO while I agree it does put added wear on the chain to do what I did, it's NOT going to wear it out that much faster then if you didn't do it. OR at least in my case (I take really good care of my stuff), it has not really effected the longevity of the life of the chain.
@@yessure5291 Well I only do street riding, so the top end is not important. It really improved the response at speed and the way the bike leaves the line. With everything done to the bike, I am putting about 120hp to the wheel. So the bike is a rocket at street speeds.
It's good to keep in mind that shorter gearing mainly helps off the line, as you can just be in a lower gear when up to speed, and you'll have the same acceleration at a given rpm and mph. If you're always going slow then shorter gears can help you stay in the power band, though. And if you have a sport bike that's geared ridiculously tall, and can go 90+ mph while lugging the engine, then there's no downside to going shorter.
I have a versys 1000 and torn on whatd be better. 1st gear zip seems fine, its more I hate loss of grunt in 6th gear going 60-100mph. Like feels like a bigger change 5-6th than between other gears. So making passes on highway I find myself wanting to go to 5th. Loss of mpg would be sad but feels like wasted gearing when im not running it up to 150mph and even doing 80/90 im only at like 3500/4000 rpm Though as a new rider I may just be scared of keeping it in higher revs. Other than moments of flooring it. Even going fast fron a stop Im enjoying fast up shifts with barely a release rowing up thru the gears at 4500-6000 rpm. Seems better than hitting second and reving it up to 8k hitting 60 then shifting up 4 gears in one go.
One of the factors that influences anti-squat in a motorcycle is the angle between the chain and the swingarm. When you place a smaller countershaft sprocket and a larger rear sprocket this angle increases. This way the motorcycle gets more anti-squat. It works the other way around too, so when you place a larger countershaft sprocket and smaller rear sprocket the bike tends to squat more under acceleration.
I run 2.63 sprocket ratios on my commuter r6. That’s a 16 and a 42. Cruzin on the highway to work at 75mph only turns 5200 rpms. Still plenty of power.
Great video as usual Ari. Would have been nice to show some stats of the differences going up/down teeth on that Versys. Eg. we went up two teeth on the rear and top end dropped from 133 mph down to 1xx mph, but the 1/4 mile time improved from xx seconds to xx seconds. And maybe some fuel consumption figures. Get Zack to do a commute on the standard size sprocket and then change it (up or down in teeth) and do the commute again and see how much it affects consumption. Keep the MC Garage vids coming, I'm always learning something new from them!
I like the MC Garage vids, but sometimes I feel he "cuts corners' -2 front and +3 rear ... isnt that already quite a BIG change?? should mention that... I did -1 front and +2 rear and that made my 2nd gear almost be a first gear??? he says changing the front sprocket is easiest cause less to remove, but that aint (always) true. And those sprockets tend to sit TIGHT, on my dads GSX1200, I could've removed the rear wheel and sprocket 10 times before we got the front one loose. We needed a 2m pipe to get enough leverage to get it loose. And those thin bolts holding the sprocketcover and cluthcablelever are easy to overtighten and break by someone with less experience (my dad did) also, the front spocket is the one that wears fastest and the less teeth, the faster it goes. also, sometimes you cant even go less teeth or max -1 tooth front, cause of chain hitting the frame/swingarm and smaller front sprocket reduces chainlife quite a big amoutn and going up in teeth in the rear can cause your chain to be too short or even tire coming too much forward, hitting the swingarm
you really picked the best bike for this example, as a former owner of a versys, I always thought the gear ration was too low. is too aggressive especially in the city. great video, would have been nice to see real-life results in the versys to see the top end speed change gain in sacrifice to a bit of torque ( which in my opinion there is plenty in that bike)
I'm now thinking about a thing. When getting a higher ratio, it's less expensive and easier to change the front sprocket. But, by changing rear sprocket, is there a gain with lowering the rotating mass and diameter ? Wich can result on same gain that front sprocket but with little acceleration gain (and again more mileage) ? Or is that negligeable ?
As usual very informative and interesting video, my query is --> Does alteration in final drive is simple in motorbikes with IMU and cornering ABS. I mean can I just go for it for 2018 Kawasaki Z10000sx or there is a Software complication from IMU
The easy way to change the final drive ration on a shaft drive is to change the aspect ration of your rear tire. Say you have a 190/50/17 on the rear and you want to get a taller final drive, switch to a 190/55/17 and you get a similar effect as changing a rear sprocket by one or two teeth.
The problem with that is the increased weight of the bigger tire, as well as little availability of different motorcycle tire sizes. The number of tire sizes for motorcycles is miniscule compared to car tires. Plus the cost of a new tire easily surpasses different sprockets, unless you needed a tire anyway..
Question...I have a 15T front sprocket 50T rear sprocket....I'm planning on putting a 17T front sprocket on . What can I expect in performance once I make the change ..?? Any feed back from anyone would be great ..
Not quite, in certain scenarios where you're riding a smaller displacement motorcycle on tighter roads, shorter gearing can actually improve gas mileage. Running with 14/36(stock) sprockets on my 220cc motorcycle I'd open the throttle more at lower gears to maintain a decent speed and prevent knocking whereas now with a 14/40 setup all is well and I roughly do half the RPM's and throttle input to maintain the same speeds.
I just bought a 2024 Kawasaki Eliminator and I love the bike. But I;ve been riding V-Tqins since the 1990's and I am use to a lower RPM at highway speeds. I am thinking about changing my front spocket from a 14 tooth to a 16 tooth but I worry that moght be too much. I don't care about the quickness of the bike but I know if I go too big on the front spocket the bike will labor hard when in the higher gears So my question, is going from a 14t to a 16t front spocket too much? Should I just go one tooth larger to a 15 tooth and be happy with that?
actually did this last week. I wanted taller gearing on my R3 as its always revving its tits off. so I worked out I got 8% higher top speed / loss of torque. So to combat that I got myself a high end X ring chain that recovered said lost torque. Win fricking win!
Great video. I have a 2009 CBF1000A and I need to replace my chain and sprocket soon. I am considering different sized sprockets if they would increase the acceleration from start off because the CBF1000A's first and second gears range are so low they really hinder a good take off. I have ridden some other bikes which effortlessly accelerate from zero to say 60km/hr in first gear. How much of a high end speed reduction is there by going with a shorter gearing? Can you provide some examples?
This channel is such a double-edged sword. The information is so good and concisely put, that I spend hours scouring the internet for deals on parts that I don't really need and modifications that don't really need to be done. But it's winter here in Michigan, and I don't really have shit else to do. Lol. Do I really need to put $5000 of parts into a $4400 motorcycle? Don't answer that. Please.
Noo u shouldn't
@@Rohit-ij6eh soooo…you’re saying maybe? 😂
The only sad thing about these videos are the fact that they end
Auto blipper nobody cares about you and your shitty opinion
Auto blipper get lost you are just a device which is used to blip the throttle while downshifting!
How dare are you to speak bad about a human?
Auto blipper both of you guys sound like 12 year olds💀
@kavinsp
This guy's delivery and how he simplifies the topics makes it easy for this old man to understand.
I've watched dozens of his vidoes on motorcycles.
Well done !!
Great video as always. I eliminated two teeth on the rear sprocket of my Wee and it was nice having the RPM go down on the highway but climbing hills sucked
Hi Carlos-I'm in a similar situation. How much did your RPM go down in highway? That is my main objective. Are you happy with the change? Thanks, -DJ
Amazing, simple solution for a big problem
I literally did not know you could do this. Very informative. Would have been great on my old FZS600.
Great video(s). Keep it up!
PS can you do a video on like dealing with electrical issues and how to examine wiring harnesses?
1 tooth biggger front = about 3.5 teeth smallest rear
depends on the bike and gears, some bikes 1:2.5, some 1:3, not always 1:3.5
Learned something new today. Thanks!
love your videos .it helps me learn a lot about my bike . please make videos often
Very Good job , Mate .........Thank you .👍👍👍👍👍👍
Note to the editor: Ari looks warm. Consider adding a gel the main light so it's closer to the background color temp? Great video as usual!
That's because it was 90 degrees in the shop when we filmed ;)
Very good video. I just got a 88 GSX1100F that my wife and I hope to tour around on and for me anyhow it feels like there should be a 6th gear because 4000 rpm at 100 kph just seems too high. It's not like it doesn't have enough power to change things up so it is maybe at 3500 rpm at the same speed.
Noob question : Does changing gearing affect where the powerband is? Like if you gear a sportbike down for more torque and less top end is it effectively moving the power band down the rev range? Or does it apply increased acceleration across the whole rev range and not effect the power band specifically?
No, powerband is to do with the engine itself and how it makes power. Gearing just affects how that power is put down. Easy to think of if you use a bicycle. When in a high gear (ie low gear ratio) its hard to get the bike to accelerate quick, but in a low gear it is super easy and you can even wheelie if you are not careful. The powerband (ie your legs) never changes, just how quickly youre in it and what affect it has on turning the wheels. So in effect, shorter gearing will make the bike feel more torquey, but you will go through the gear a lot quicker and ultimately have less top speed. hope that helps!
@@hisride Thanks that's helpful, it's kind of what I suspected
@@teagan73191 nice one. Im bout to go one tooth down in the front and 7 up in the rear so im imagining ill struggle to keep the front down lol
@@hisride wow let me know how it goes! I did one down two up on my 636, I love the power delivery now
@@teagan73191 will do, thats awesome!
thanks . cleared all my questions .
Hey what showld we do to make speedometer correct after changing sprockets
Really like your videos, to the point with great info, now about Ari's biceps?
I only use sprockets that have odd number of tooths to have more even wear. I only would go for shorter ratio if the power of the bike not enough in first gear, or on a track bike if the top gear(s) too tall for the straight; then I would use bigger rear sprocket and longer chain if needed than to use smaller front sprocket. IMHO the only good reason to go for shorter gearing, if the bike being slow or sluggish when used around the peak torque and power rpm range in any gear. With my 1000cc bikes I always chosen a bigger front sprocket in the end, even if I have tried a smaller first - getting to the twisties with a lower cruise rpm and better mileage matters for me, as in the twisties I certainly can do one more downshift if I want to. I can live with the worse acceleration if even the first gear is too tall for a few slow corners...
for the next videos topics, i suggest you to explain the type of engine configuration such as v or inline engine. it may be interesting
Great info. Thanks for making the vid!
In some cases, it is necessary to reduce the # of teeth of the front sprocket cuz increasing the # of teeth on the rear is not practical (too expensive) or possible (mainly for clearance issues). Also, increasing the # of teeth of the rear sprocket drastically may also wear out the chain faster cuz it increases chain speed for a given road speed. For example, if the stock rear sprocket was 40 teeth but it was changed to 50 teeth, at any given speed (50 MPH, 100 MPH, 200 KPH...), the chain would be moving 25% faster. This may increase wear since there are more times the chain and teeth "mesh" with each other.
Nope that's not the way it works. If you increase the number of teeth on the rear and maintain the same RPM you will just slow the bike down. To speed back up you will have to speed up the engine which will make the FRONT sprocket spin faster just to keep the back sprocket turning at your original number of turns.
Can u please make a video how to get better mileage by changing chain sprockets
Should you "ride it like you stole it" or follow the manual when breaking in a new motorcycle?
Hey I have a question. I have a yamaha yzf r125. That was lowered as it was high ish for me. It wasn't lowered much. However when trying to shift from 1st to second I seem to keep hitting N sometimes it's more then once which a few secs. Only happens between 1 and 2 any tips please 🙏 😊
Hi, I just want to ask. If i change the sprocket size of my YZFR15 V2 from 15/47 to 14/49 does it have a affect or change in reading on the speed meter?
Yes...and that deals only directly with the front sprocket change as chances are with it being directly connected with the transmission shaft, the speed sensor in which is being read deals directly with that. Thus without a Speedohealer or another similar product, the faster you go, the higher the actual difference in real world speed you're doing versus what that stock speedometer in your stock cluster gauge will read
One tooth count going UP on my cb 500x 2019 from 15 to 16 tooth = 10% differences in speed readings in stock speedometer in my gauge cluster versus actual gps real world mph at 55 on the speedometer but 60 on the gps in 6th gear.
You can adjust the rear sprocket to almost any size that you can find without it messing with the speedometer's reading accuracy.
In your exact example would mean your stock speedo will show you're going faster at speeds 40mph and above ( bigger the speed..the bigger the difference), than you're actually doing given you're going down one in the front and up two in the rear...thus that will give you slightly faster acceleration at teh cost of higher rpms needed for the same original whatever speeds above a certain speed range such as 30 or more mph.
I'm going +2 on the rear. 112 links on now. Do I need to add links? And, if so how many? It's for my 450 sumo.
Guys I'm doing -1 in the front & +2 in the rear on my 2015 Z1000. The OEM chain has 112 links. Now that I'm changing my sprocket set up, will I need a longer chain or the 112 chain is good to go? Need this answered asap. Will be vv grateful my fellow moto - people.
Question I have 16 front 42 rear on my kz650 but I want to gear up for more top speed. What would you recommend? Thanks
Awesome ive wondered this for ages. 🤙
This was a great tutorial
i will try it
Can you do cruiser videos along with your sport bikes??
i need to buy a new chain and sprocket for my bike soon can any one shed some light on what are the best brands? i dont want my chain snapping or sprocket wearing fast
Sir question how to avoid clutch plate damage?tnx ride safe
from PHILIPPINES
Thanks a lot for this video!! ;)
Are individual transmission gears sold online in case you only want to replace a single gear ratio? The ratios from 1st to 4th gears on the DRZ400SM are fine but 5th gear is too short. I dont want to change the final drive, I just want to increase that top gear so the engine wont rev so high on the highway
Don't expect it to be available. I wish I could do the same thing as what you want. You could pave the path by taking your gears out (2 gears need to be made, as they mesh together) and having a machinist custom make some new ones. Get the dimensions of the new ones, and a supplier should be able to replicate them more cheaply. This whole endeavor would cost several hundred, if not a thousand dollars most likely. If you are good at making drawings, you could draw up your own gears though and the process gets a whole lot cheaper!
Gud er vedio😘
I have a question... Let's say I have a sproket set of 34-15 (2.26) and another set if 31-14 (2.21).. assuming the 0.05 is neglected... What's the difference between both of them.. the 31-14 set should have a shorter chain right.. will there be any difference caused by a shorter chain ?
Hehe nice vid, its good thing to do, a friend of mine bought as first ride a gsxr 750, but he wanned 600, but owner before changed rear fairing ans painted so there wasnt number for engine size wich sais what is "model" 600 750 or 1000 on suzuki, and friend dint watch what owner writte before he contacted hem to buy, and he rode a 600 same model before and can remember a little the feel of pull from 600, when he start to ride hes new bike he says he notice a small difference not big just a arround 10% it pulls stronger in suzu powerband, we watched rided and it runs great but with saim amlunt of gass it goes a bit beter than 600... but anyway it is good thing latter we found it is 750 engine haha 🤣 and becouse he is noob allso i am still noob even i ride coupe of years now, he bought front sprocked bigger 1 tooth, and bike pulls wery similar as 600, and meybe gained few kmh faster bike 😁 and wich is great he if want more power he doesnt need to put powercommander and tune for more, just put back sprocket 🤭 but it is good idea if someone like the look of for example of 1kcc sport bike but is begginer and ride 80% in city trafic, its great idea what he or she can do to reduce torque wich in my opinion is great, i ride 600 k7 gsxr, but i wanned that 750 for futire but tought it is a bit strong even threre is a minor very difference in "stock" form bike i am talkin, so just put sprockets that will gain you more speed and reduce torque and latter when you think u want mlre just put back stock one's, i kinda like this my friend idea what he did, soon i am gettin 750 but for rest of ppl who want for example stronger bike just becouse of that wider tire and looks but are begginers, dont wory buy it and just make it a bit weaker, i know what point is in 750 or 1kcc engine but hey its not that u are weakening ur bike by ecu or some engine parts... its not it is just some small parts that does not effect engine real performance and workin so dont wory ^_^ i am sad i didnt buyed before 750 and did this ^_^ and now just put stock for regular more power
Hi there , can I ask if you have any how videos on auto cam chain tensioner....
In particular for a Yamaha tw 125 but I guess almost any is the same.
I have r15 v2 I want to increase pickup in my bike which size chain sprockets is used to this purpose plzz tell me ✌🏼
Can’t you change over your final belt drive to a gear/chain final drive?
You can, but it will usually require some special offset sprockets.
r u the double of actor ryan gosling?😀
I have a 2000 Honda rc51...The first gear is really tall. My sprocket setup is a 16 front and a 40 rear sprocket.. and won't it change your speedo?... Mileage?
Make one on carburettor jetting
Could you just shorten the 1st or second gear while keeping the rest of the gears same?
Not unless you're willing to disassemble your transmission and there are suitable gears, which would have to come from a factory race kit or the transmission of a compatible model. In other words, yes, but it'll be extremely challenging to do.
super low first and overdrive 6th would be nice on all bikes.
@@JohnErikjohansson then there would be large gaps from 1-2 and 5-6. Not good...
How to flush engine oil and its pros cons?
cool
on city riding better go with stock
I actually got worse fuel economy on smaller rear sprockets in the city but I got WAY BETTER Fuel Economy on the highway
but if you live on a place where there's inclines everywhere
I got better fuel economy with a bigger rear sprocket
I ride a 74' Honda CB350
Your great 👏
Nice😉
You're such a vascular man no cheese ari
Pst, this is your future self, don't go to that fireworks party...
Is it just me or this guy really looks like Captain America?
So whats your reason for changing the Sprocket on the Versey,
Just asking seeing as im looking at a 2017 versey at the moment
It's a parallel twin so it's a bit buzzy above 6500 rpm, so the idea was to gear it taller to bring the cruising RPM down to a smoother speed. Also, the speedo is crazy optimistic, so gearing it taller will help make it more accurate. Someone else commented already that a 43t sprocket is the hot ticket for this bike. Stock is 46t.
Why does company like ktm use 14:42 and 15:45 on their 200 390 lineup but that equals to both "3"... Why not stay with both 14:42 for both 200/390 or both 15:45? Tnx
It is likely due to different chain sizes and sprocket availability for off the shelf suppliers. Also, a 14/42 is lighter than a 15/45 but would be more likely to sling off lubricant from the more dramatic direction changes. The manufacturer may also select their sprocket sizes from how far away from the swingarm they want the chain to be. A thicker(height) swingarm makes the chain more likely to contact it, so they may pick the larger sprocket option even though the gearing is the same for that reason.
About to go plus 8 on my zx10r >:)
awhiteguy24 - the stock gears are so high that redline in 1’st is over 100mph. I would also drop a tooth in the front too.
PapaWheelie well plus 8 on the rear is equivalent to doing 3.5 on the front. You think I still need more?
Nah that should be perfect- just give it a try, you can always mess with the front later. Honestly that bike has insane power already stock.
Motorcyclist Magazine I live in Bangladesh. In my country there are only permission for 165cc bikes. In my country the best sports bikes are CBR150R, GSX R150 and Yamaha R15 v3.
The front tires of those bikes are 90,100 section and the rare tires are 130,140.
I like fat tires. And I have CBR150R. So, which tire size will be fat and perfect for my bike. And How many milage have to sacrifice???
Can someone explain me why when i changed my 16t to 15t i get better mileage by about 20-30 miles? Shouldn't it be backwards? Mainly city driving.
FyWhy you probably don't have to open the throttle as much, or hold it open as long, to get up to speed
If your speedo runs off of the rear wheel, then the faster spinning sprocket is tricking your odometer into thinking it has traveled more miles than it actually has. 16 to 15 would be around a 6.5% difference. More likely the reason is that you were running in lower gears before to compensate for the taller gearing, and now you run in higher gears. Could also be a combination of both.
I want my bike to ride at 1200 rpm in 6th at 100 mph.
u need a 2200cc engine for that,
Great video. Can you do a tutorial on how to make my biceps look like Ari’s?
Grom curls.
John Capozzi Ah ok. That makes sense.
That's on Athleanx's channel.
Dude is doing roids! Cant you tell he is so angry all the time! Hair fell out a few years back. I mean all the signs are there.
lol
I agree the back sprocket can be harder to change for some, however be careful going with a smaller front sproket cause most bikes will chew up the rubber chain slider and dig into the spingarn causing some expensive repairs.
Yup, great point.
I knew all this already, but i still watch these videos, just because they are damn good. :-)
On my 2004 Kawasaki ZX-10R (17-39 stock sprockets), I went with -2, +11 (15-50 sprockets) and not only did those look cool, it made the bike MUCH more fun at lower speeds since I could get at the power MUCH quicker without having to go at license losing speeds. When not riding aggressively, I could easily shortshift all 6 gears at legal speeds but when I wanted to hammer it, I had all 6 gears in the speed range of the stock first 4 gears. The bike just "ate up" each gear quickly but still had a theoretical top speed of close to 150 MPH. Lots of fun. The 15-50 sprocket combo is a 3.33 final drive ratio so to get that with the stock 17 tooth front, I would need 57 teeth (3.35) which would have made it look like a stunt bike sprocket. Reducing the # of teeth on the front sprocket somewhat "hides" that it is geared down but a rear sprocket change is kinda obvious.
I can't even imagine the wheelie machine you created. Those are massive changes.
Bruh all this "legal speeds" talk shut your dirty little mouth
Next is how to service your suspension.
keep distance would be awesome
fellow man*
Agreed.
Next video: How do you keep that drivetrain so clean.
We've done that video ;)
Keep the bike in a garage and never let it get rained on.
Soap
Finally, I now know what those "taller" and "shorter" gearing you guys mention in your On Two Wheels videos.
I replaced the stock 16t front sprocket on my 07 GS500F with a 14t sprocket and it makes a big difference in how the bike accelerates. I love this setup because I do more sporty riding than highway riding
Please explain about fork oils and which oil we use for better usability according to the ride style. Right now I am having problems with my suspension setup.
One thing is sure from comments, People need to study high school Physics.
My issue is when my speedo reads 65mph I'm actually doing 60mph, so I would need to increase 1 tooth on the front sprocket?
yes that's right
I dropped a tooth on the front sprocket of my little R3 and it completely changed the characteristic of the bike. And since I do a lot of canyon carving and street riding with it, I much prefer this set-up.
FPSPhilippines i believe front sprocket is 15? So you drop one tooth its now 14? And rear sprocket 45?
Pepsi Boy42 the OEM is 14 front 43 rear and I just swapped for a 13T takasago front sprocket and left the stock chain and rear sprocket since it all fits. However the speedo is rather enthusiastic reading 100kph when in reality its running about 93kph give or take. But doesn't really bother me since the speed limits in our island are more "guidelines" than actual rules to follow lol.
ride safe paps ... nice info na din ..
does changing the front sprocket affects the speedo?? please reply im quite interesting especially in small cc bikes
Yeah did 2 down and three up on my 2005 Triumph Daytona 650... It now is an insanely quick bike.. Yeah I can only do 156-158 top end... BUT I don't ever hit those speeds on the street... I can keep up with my buddies stock ZX14 from a standstill to about 130MPH... SO I am just fine with that...
Anyone have suggestions for a good gearing set up for a ninja 300 if I’m wanting to lower rpm’s at cruising speeds? I’m currently getting around 7k rpm at around 70mph and looking to lower that.
Changing the front is the easiest and best. YOU DON'T NEED MUCH. One tooth is a lot. My SV1000 was too tall so I DROPPED a tooth up front; my old Bandit 1200 was too SHORT (it's a 5- speed), so I went UP a tooth. Both brought the bikes in-line with how I ride. Be careful though! 1) make sure you have enough physical ROOM to increase front sprocket size... and 2) watch your chain slack on the swingarm marks. You could easily make your chain too short or long. PS - I never worked on a bike where you could "easily" swap front sprockets without at LEAST removing the rear wheel.
Another factor to consider when changing the front sprocket is chain life. Going taller in the front extends chain life significantly. Going shorter in the front decreases chain life significantly.
Jay _ yes that's why you always increase in the rear vs decreasing in front, even though ari recommended the opposite
Well I went 2 down on the front and 3 up on the rear... OF my 2005 Triumph Daytona 650 about 20k miles ago... Chain and teeth are still just fine, yes the chain is getting near the point I will want to change it (measured the "stretch"), however it is still well within safe limits. I don't do any sort of wheelies... I do ride aggressively, and I purchased to spec parts. SO while I agree it does put added wear on the chain to do what I did, it's NOT going to wear it out that much faster then if you didn't do it. OR at least in my case (I take really good care of my stuff), it has not really effected the longevity of the life of the chain.
@@JJ_ExMachina Wow that is a drastic change.
@@yessure5291 Well I only do street riding, so the top end is not important. It really improved the response at speed and the way the bike leaves the line. With everything done to the bike, I am putting about 120hp to the wheel. So the bike is a rocket at street speeds.
@@JJ_ExMachina Take it easy - speeding tickets are easy to get and costly in fines and insurance increases. ;)
I have a crf 250. Have to climb a steep slippery trail every day to reach my place. What sprockets are recommended? Thanks
hello, if you go 1- front and 2+ on a literbike, will it make a difference to the 1st gear, as in make it stall at low revs ? more than usual?
It's good to keep in mind that shorter gearing mainly helps off the line, as you can just be in a lower gear when up to speed, and you'll have the same acceleration at a given rpm and mph. If you're always going slow then shorter gears can help you stay in the power band, though. And if you have a sport bike that's geared ridiculously tall, and can go 90+ mph while lugging the engine, then there's no downside to going shorter.
A good tool for doing the math is gearingcommander,com. if you want to know how big of a change it will be.
I have a versys 1000 and torn on whatd be better. 1st gear zip seems fine, its more I hate loss of grunt in 6th gear going 60-100mph. Like feels like a bigger change 5-6th than between other gears. So making passes on highway I find myself wanting to go to 5th. Loss of mpg would be sad but feels like wasted gearing when im not running it up to 150mph and even doing 80/90 im only at like 3500/4000 rpm
Though as a new rider I may just be scared of keeping it in higher revs. Other than moments of flooring it. Even going fast fron a stop Im enjoying fast up shifts with barely a release rowing up thru the gears at 4500-6000 rpm. Seems better than hitting second and reving it up to 8k hitting 60 then shifting up 4 gears in one go.
Already liked the video while the add was playing lol. I know its gonna be good.
Changing the sprockets also affects the anti-squat characteristics of the bike. This is something to keep in mind with this modification.
say more, im not familiar
One of the factors that influences anti-squat in a motorcycle is the angle between the chain and the swingarm. When you place a smaller countershaft sprocket and a larger rear sprocket this angle increases. This way the motorcycle gets more anti-squat. It works the other way around too, so when you place a larger countershaft sprocket and smaller rear sprocket the bike tends to squat more under acceleration.
Makes perfect sense and I learned it today. Thank you.
I run 2.63 sprocket ratios on my commuter r6. That’s a 16 and a 42. Cruzin on the highway to work at 75mph only turns 5200 rpms. Still plenty of power.
so you have longer gears?
Great video as usual Ari. Would have been nice to show some stats of the differences going up/down teeth on that Versys. Eg. we went up two teeth on the rear and top end dropped from 133 mph down to 1xx mph, but the 1/4 mile time improved from xx seconds to xx seconds. And maybe some fuel consumption figures. Get Zack to do a commute on the standard size sprocket and then change it (up or down in teeth) and do the commute again and see how much it affects consumption. Keep the MC Garage vids coming, I'm always learning something new from them!
Looking for stats:www.gearingcommander.com
Nice link, thanks!
i wonder if he answers questions, anyway here we go, does a lighter chain help all around performance on a bike because of less rotational mass?
*Sooooooo…*
Does adding teeth make each gear rev out slower but also for longer *??*
LOL, the cheapest way to change the ratio on a shaft driven bike is to change the tire size!😁
I like the MC Garage vids, but sometimes I feel he "cuts corners'
-2 front and +3 rear ... isnt that already quite a BIG change?? should mention that...
I did -1 front and +2 rear and that made my 2nd gear almost be a first gear???
he says changing the front sprocket is easiest cause less to remove, but that aint (always) true.
And those sprockets tend to sit TIGHT, on my dads GSX1200, I could've removed the rear wheel and sprocket 10 times before we got the front one loose.
We needed a 2m pipe to get enough leverage to get it loose.
And those thin bolts holding the sprocketcover and cluthcablelever are easy to overtighten and break by someone with less experience (my dad did)
also, the front spocket is the one that wears fastest and the less teeth, the faster it goes.
also, sometimes you cant even go less teeth or max -1 tooth front, cause of chain hitting the frame/swingarm
and smaller front sprocket reduces chainlife quite a big amoutn
and going up in teeth in the rear can cause your chain to be too short or even tire coming too much forward, hitting the swingarm
what about chain size, there are kind of chain size ex : 415, 420, 428, 512.
is this give effect to motorcycle power transfer??
Quality content as always 💪🏼
you really picked the best bike for this example, as a former owner of a versys, I always thought the gear ration was too low. is too aggressive especially in the city. great video, would have been nice to see real-life results in the versys to see the top end speed change gain in sacrifice to a bit of torque ( which in my opinion there is plenty in that bike)
Nice video guys. Maybe the next MC Garage can be on "how to know when to replace your clutch plates, clutch cable, etc"?
I'm now thinking about a thing.
When getting a higher ratio, it's less expensive and easier to change the front sprocket. But, by changing rear sprocket, is there a gain with lowering the rotating mass and diameter ?
Wich can result on same gain that front sprocket but with little acceleration gain (and again more mileage) ?
Or is that negligeable ?
As usual very informative and interesting video, my query is --> Does alteration in final drive is simple in motorbikes with IMU and cornering ABS. I mean can I just go for it for 2018 Kawasaki Z10000sx or there is a Software complication from IMU
The easy way to change the final drive ration on a shaft drive is to change the aspect ration of your rear tire. Say you have a 190/50/17 on the rear and you want to get a taller final drive, switch to a 190/55/17 and you get a similar effect as changing a rear sprocket by one or two teeth.
The problem with that is the increased weight of the bigger tire, as well as little availability of different motorcycle tire sizes. The number of tire sizes for motorcycles is miniscule compared to car tires. Plus the cost of a new tire easily surpasses different sprockets, unless you needed a tire anyway..
15 /45 is exactly what i have w my 00 gsxr 600, had 16/46 2.87 fd to 15/45 3.00 fd n man what a difference
Question...I have a 15T front sprocket 50T rear sprocket....I'm planning on putting a 17T front sprocket on . What can I expect in performance once I make the change ..?? Any feed back from anyone would be great ..
Anyone ever told you that you look like Tom cruise and Mathew McConaughey 😂 both
Not quite, in certain scenarios where you're riding a smaller displacement motorcycle on tighter roads, shorter gearing can actually improve gas mileage. Running with 14/36(stock) sprockets on my 220cc motorcycle I'd open the throttle more at lower gears to maintain a decent speed and prevent knocking whereas now with a 14/40 setup all is well and I roughly do half the RPM's and throttle input to maintain the same speeds.
I just bought a 2024 Kawasaki Eliminator and I love the bike. But I;ve been riding V-Tqins since the 1990's and I am use to a lower RPM at highway speeds. I am thinking about changing my front spocket from a 14 tooth to a 16 tooth but I worry that moght be too much. I don't care about the quickness of the bike but I know if I go too big on the front spocket the bike will labor hard when in the higher gears
So my question, is going from a 14t to a 16t front spocket too much? Should I just go one tooth larger to a 15 tooth and be happy with that?
actually did this last week.
I wanted taller gearing on my R3 as its always revving its tits off. so I worked out I got 8% higher top speed / loss of torque. So to combat that I got myself a high end X ring chain that recovered said lost torque. Win fricking win!
What should I do to increase initial pickup for wheelie?
Great video.
I have a 2009 CBF1000A and I need to replace my chain and sprocket soon. I am considering different sized sprockets if they would increase the acceleration from start off because the CBF1000A's first and second gears range are so low they really hinder a good take off. I have ridden some other bikes which effortlessly accelerate from zero to say 60km/hr in first gear.
How much of a high end speed reduction is there by going with a shorter gearing? Can you provide some examples?
Ari can you talk about engine braking/downshifting and rev matching?