One problem with starting on the rear is that rear sprockets can cost three to four times as much as a front one....my experience has been that if you think you might need a little more or less try starting with the front sorocket. One tooth will let you know that it was either way too much, a little too much or just right.. you can always put the original front back on and then change one or two on the rear. At least a $20.00 front will give a good idea where to go with an $80 or more rear.
This is true, to get a quick feel. But generally the front gets eaten up much faster, so it's not a long term solution. It's better to change both by 1-2 teeth so you get a better final ratio.
Smaller front sprockets wear out the chain and themselves more rapidly. Larger front sprockets wear the chain less and wear out more slowly themselves, making both components last longer. So the guiding principle is that you should always use the largest front sprocket that will fit your bike and which will still allow you to achieve the gearing you desire. Therefore, if you need to gear your bike UP, for more top-end speed or a lower cruising RPM or to make first gear more useful if it's too low, ALWAYS gear it UP by adding teeth to the front sprocket until you either 1) achieve the gearing you want, or 2) run out of space to add more teeth. ONLY when you have no more space to install a larger front sprocket should you start subtracting teeth from the rear. For example, I have a Honda XR650R and my current sprocket combo is 17/54, because 17t is the largest countershaft sprocket that will fit. Keep in mind that having larger sprockets in both positions is much, much better for the chain, with the priority on the larger front sprocket. The larger rear sprocket will increase speed the chain moves, but it will also reduce the amount of tension on the chain significantly, and the reduced tension is far more important to chain longevity -- as is the larger front sprocket. Also, if you make a major change your gearing, such as adding a tooth to your front sprocket, ride the bike like that for at least two weeks before you make any decision about further changes. Always give yourself time to adjust, adapt, and get a really good, matured sense of the results of a gearing change before spending more money on sprockets to make another gearing change. Also, adding teeth up front and a possibly a few more in the rear might require a longer chain. Fine. Make that happen. Spend the money on a good quality chain-breaker. Buy a few links of chain from a local motorcycle shop and add them to your chain, or better yet, just buy a new, longer chain and use your chain breaker to adjust the length to fit your new sprocket setup. Proper, USEFUL gearing is a make-or-break issue on any motorcycle, so do not skimp on spending money on a high-quality chain breaker or a new chain or more sprockets in order to find the gearing that serves your purposes and gives you gearing-relief. Spend the money and the time to figure out exactly what final drive gearing will be the most useful to you and make you like your bike rather than curse your bike -- or even sell it. If it eventuates as necessary, become an expert on breaking and re-riveting chains, on lengthening and shortening chains. Do whatever it takes to get the gearing that makes you smile. To recap: 1) Get the largest countershaft sprocket that will fit your bike. 2) Adjust the gearing from there by adding or subtracting teeth from the rear sprocket. 3) Do not allow your current chain length to limit what you do with sprockets. Buy the tools and change your chain length if necessary. 4) Never use a new rear sprocket with an old chain, and vice versa. The old, stretched chain will ruin the new sprocket, and vice versa. Front sprockets are so inexpensive that you should replace them like candy. The INSTANT you can see visible wear on your countershaft sprocket, replace it to preserve your chain. You should go through at least two countershaft sprockets during the life of every rear sprocket and every chain.
So for example, my KTM 690 Enduro makes almost 120MPH, which is kind of ridiculous on an Enduro bike , but the 690 Enduro is more of a dualsport street - offroad bike. I do not ride that much on-road on my 690 Enduro nowadays, I ride more gravel roads and not too technical forest trails. I never ride over 100mph on it, I have like a 40 min highway ride to get to the off-road parts around where I live. So I am now thinking of changing the sprockets on my 690 Enduro, since I never go over 100MPH, I do not care if I loose 20MPH from 120MPH top speed. Sidenote my bike currently makes 73.9 hp, 69nm torque on rear wheel on dynojet and the bike weighs 149kg/328LBS fully fulled so I am not riding any advance motocross trails with it. I always thought my friends KTM 530 exc was fast but this 690 is insane I was thinking maybe going 2 teeth less on the front sprocket and 3 teeth more on the back sprocket, would that give the bike a noticeable increase in acceleration and much less top speed ?
Nice job. I noticed a lot of people today didn't know this. I went from a 40 tooth to a 48 tooth on my Apollo, because it is designed to do 70 mph. I maybe crazy but not that crazy to do 70 on dirt. Now I can do about 55 mph, but get the most out of that 17 hp motor. Hey I'm old and poor, but I'm still riding.
I've hit a gravel road on a cruiser going 65 from pavement.... Definitely like drinking a coffee. Haven't done it many times lately because jerks doing burnouts making it bumpy.
I’m 71 and ridden my Husaberg 650 down the deep sand beach in Baja at 95 mph indicated on my Trail Tech GPS with 14x45 gearing. Bike wasn’t even wound out.
@donaldgrant9067 "Appallo" ? Do you mean Apollo ? Is that those smaller, fiddy kind of bikes ? I remember I had like a small 125 fiddy bike when I was younger, I think it said Apollo on the side of the tank that is why I recognize that name.
The mind twister for me today was thinking that the rear TIRE diameter works the same as the rear SPROCKET diameter because I mean they are both being effectively driven by the front sprocket....but in fact a smaller diameter TIRE gears the bike DOWN....right? as opposed to a smaller diameter rear SPROCKET that would gear the bike UP ....do I have this right? Mentally it had me squirming LOL. But bigger diameter tire turning the same number of RPMs goes farther hence faster but a bigger sprocket goes less farther so slower ....bizarre
I remember racing my CRF450 at Supermoto fondly! I messed around with gear ratio's for certain tracks, but I found happy medium with a 14-42! This produced great top end, which was needed for Supermoto!
Good job, here's another example of a bikes subtleties, I changed gearing on my 600 thumper from 14/42 (3.00 to one) to 14/47 (3.36 to one) on steep single track I found I needed just a touch more low end from 2nd to 3rd, then I installed my Arrow stainless steel slip on pipe (Arrow make pipes for Yamaha race teams) and gained slightly more torque which cleared up that low end so there was no need to change gearing again, sometimes the smallest change is all you need, same can be said for jetting or suspension.
I have GS750 and me putting on new sprockets and chain. The new rear sprocket is larger. I honestly would not mind having the power come in a tad later. I mean right now you crack the throttle and it goes!!
This is a good video to have because I bought a Honda Shadow 750 TODAY (I'm sooooo stoked after 20 years of not riding !!!) and the previous owner replaced the rear sprocket with ONE more tooth and he said it made all the difference in the world and it can now cruise at 2200 RPM at 65 mph with two people riding.
I have 15/45 sprockets from factory on my naked 150cc bike, feels so slow in acceleration, then i change to 14/46 (-1 front and +1 back) it gives very significant change, like more climbing ability, the rpm much revs faster to redline, but i lose about 12 kmh in top speed, yeah for me it's okay because in my place there is lot of traffic jam and i like to ride with pillion so, i prefer torque than top end.. so going 1 up in rear and losing up 1 in front is just same as change to 4 up in the rear with no change at front..
The top speed raises an interesting question. I'm looking at a dual-purpose bike, I want to be able to take it on and off-road, but the cruising speed tops out at 70-80mph. If I wanted to hit and maintain those speeds more comfortably, let's say by trying to reach 100 in 5th gear with the same RPMs, do you think dropping a tooth or two off the rear sprocket would accomplish this?
Loved the video, you said that it is recommended to change a tooth at a time, what if I buy a new bike and change the rear sprocket from 50 to 42, it is a Honda CRF250F, is that bad for the transmission/engine?
went from 13/48 stock to 13/50 on my xr250r and its just an absolute tractor now. I dont run super fast, just trail riding and the xr has a 6 speed so it really gives it a crawler gear.
For my bike first gear was way to short. almost never used it except once by walking beside it when I had a flat.. stock is 13/50 looked at a calculator for speeds. going to a 14/46 going to drop my crusing speed by 850rpm and make 1st gear usable.
Smaller front sprockets wear out the chain and themselves more rapidly. Larger front sprockets wear the chain less, and wear out more slowly themselves, making them both last longer. So the guiding principle is that you should always use the largest front sprocket you can that will still allow you to achieve the gearing you desire. Therefore, if you need to gear your bike UP, for more top-end or a lower cruising RPM or to make first gear more useful, ALWAYS gear it UP by adding teeth to the front sprocket until you either 1) achieve the gearing you want, or 2) run out of space to add more teeth. ONLY when you have no more space to install a larger front sprocket should you start subtracting teeth from the rear. I have a Honda XR650R and my current sprocket combo is 17/54. (17 teeth is the largest countershaft sprocket that will fit.)
@@linguinatorschwartz9309 Thankyou for the insight. 14 tooth is the largest a crf230f would fix. I had to modify the Chain Slider Guide / Swingarm Protector because how little room the 14t sprocket had so 15 tooth isn't a option. Is saying that. I hope your comment helps many more people in the future! Thankyou.
The motor still produces the same power, it’s thrust that changes with gearing changes. By faster I take it you mean rate of change of velocity ie acceleration?
When you go smaller on the countershaft sprocket than 12 teeth. Your chain ware accelerates by approximately 30%.. because you have less teeth on the counter shaft sharing the load.. aluminum sprockets wear out way way faster than steel sprockets that compounds how fast the chain wears out also, because if the sprockets are worn out, that wears the chain out, and if the chain is worn out, that wears the sprockets out.. I went one tooth larger on my countershaft sprocket on my Kawasaki Z 400 street bike.. within a half an hour I got a check engine code on my display… The onboard computer sensed that the wheel speed was changed in relation to the counter shaft speed.. my gear indicator also stopped working when that happened. there is a liquid crystal display on my instrument panel that displayed what gear I was in, up until that time that the check engine light came on.. I went back to the stock countershaft sprocket, and my engine was actually happier spinning a little faster through all the gears. It just felt as though the engine was running rougher/ lugging with the larger countershaft sprocket that I intended to lower the RPMs. But I was not lugging the engine. It felt stressed even at six or seven or 8000 RPMs. Redline is 12,000.. So I put the original countershaft sprocket back on, and went through the ritual of resetting the computer to get the check engine light to go out, and the gear position indicator to start working again. Which involved, turning the key off , let the machine idle for at least 30 seconds, then drive off continuously doing at least 25 miles an hour for 10 minutes. Repeat that three times, turn the key off, let it idle, ride the bike for at least 10 minutes, and my check engine light went off and my gear indicator started working again.. Juggling gear ratios is not as easy as it used to be. I carried a pretty wide selection of gears and different chain links on my road racing machines for different tracks. I always geared the machine so that I could red line 6th gear on the highest speed straight for at least half of the straight.. when I loop my chains I always leave the inside of the chain with 90 weight oil, that was a Honda recommendation back in the 1970s when I was a dealership mechanic, and I’ve always done that ever since. One drop between each roller plate on each side of the chain, where an O-ring chain has its O-rings, never use WD-40 or any other solvent on your chain.. don’t forget to check your chain tension when your chain is at its tightest. That is when the countershaft sprocket, the swingarm pivot, and the rear axle are in a straight line in relation to each other. That’s when your chain is at its tightest.. I saw a YZ 490 break the engine cases because the guy did not check his chain tension when he went up one tooth on the counter shaft. He went up over a jump in when he came down, the counter shaft polled and broke the engine case when he landed.. some motorcycles have a short output shaft on the transmission, and they are especially susceptible to chain tightness. The original CB Honda 750 was vulnerable to the tight chain. The chain may seem like it has enough slack, but you have to have The counter shaft, the swingarm pivot, and the rear axle all on the same plane, same level to check your chain tightness
Was recommended going 1 down 2 up in the rear. Yea.. pretty snappy but some punk kid in a Honda Civic was taking me on top end only Gsxr 750. Going back to stock
I put a -1 front sprocket on the 2002 CBR954RR I used to have. That made a noticeable difference; as if the front end on that bike wasn't easy enough to raise up off the ground before....
I have a 2018 Honda Cbr650f front sprocket is 15t and rear sprocket is 42t I plan on upgrading to a 48t rear sprocket do you think I'd get some good gains adding 6t to the rear?
Great advice and presentation, i prefer to work one gear like you mentioned instead of shifting up because the rev ask me to . Smoother and more predictable , i enjoy the power with control.
4:54 same problem bike just wanna go even when a lil bit of gas like coming to turn it times I hit power band outta no where be in shock like dude wth just happened
Had a 1986 GSXR 1100. put a bigger sprocket on the rear from sprocket specialist. had wheelie bars, Electric shifter, Mikuni 36mm carbs & Vance & Hines exhaust without the baffle. 9.80 quarter mile @ 146 mph. the lager rear sprocket was the key in the quarter mile.
I’m pretty happy with my bike. Just going down 3T on the rear to make the top end cruise a little better on the highway. Can’t wait to experiment and vlog it on my channel
Hello I need Help , I just Buy a Honda crf 300 l ,Just transform Supermotord with original sprocket 14 -40 ...I need more speed ...which will be better change
If I have a toque figure from a dyno run with stock gearing and it's say 90 foot pounds if I gear the bike down say -1 on the front and +1 on the rear. Will the torque figure change on the dyno? I know the outright hp figure won't but I'm unsurs about the torque.
I changed up my gearing from 13-49 to 13-52 just assuming it was more what I'd like. Hella difference and taking awhile getting used to it. I'm on a tc250 and when the power hits I'm shocked, wishing I went one tooth at a time cause its almost too much. I ride both woods and track but nervous to get on a track this year lol
Hi so I have an 07 Kawasaki Vulcan vn900 classic and want to put a aftermarket rim 240 40-18 with a custom pulley. The OEM pulleys. Is 34 front and 62 rear how much teeth can I drop on the rear and still function without messing with the front? If that makes any sense 🙏🏼
Im adding another point... im struggling on my TC250 with extremely stiff front end and soft rear end... I theorize on adding two teeth at the rear sprocket so my wheel base drops, and my power increases... helping absorb the load under hard impacts translating it into forward motion rather than down motion (My back is fckn killing me!) plus, third gear is a little laggy and second gear is not as aggressive as it can be... Gonna help with that regard, bike is in theory gonna be more of a hand full but its well balanced so id rather sacrifice the power output to better that torque
I'm currently changing my chain and sprockets I have changed to a 42 on the rear this time instead of 41 do I need to add a extra link in chain or keep the same as it and just adjust the wheel
Hmmm. Some miss use of terms, there. If you increase the rear sprocket by one tooth, the front sprocket has to rotate further to move the rear sprocket the same as before. If the task is accomplished in less time (faster, as you said), then it took more power to do so. If you go one tooth less on the rear, then the front sprocket will rotate less. Torque is rotational force, and if the engine can produce enough , can complete the task in the same given time. It is the increase in rotational force required (torque) to complete the task that has tamed your 450.
I have a stock drz400s. I don’t ride rear technical trails. It’s more of a desert, fire road bike but there are a lot of hills here. I kind of want more top end so I can ride it to work. I don’t feel comfortable going 70mph for more than an exit or 2. I believe my bike has 14/44 gears. Would a 43 tooth make much difference?
No, it wouldn't. Smaller front sprockets wear out the chain and themselves more rapidly than larger front sprockets. Larger front sprockets wear the chain less, and wear out more slowly themselves, making both components last longer. So the guiding principle is that you should always use the largest front sprocket you can that will still allow you to achieve the gearing you desire, even if that means you have to by a larger rear sprocket and a longer chain. Therefore, if you need to gear your bike UP, for more top-end speed or a lower cruising RPM or to make first gear more useful because it's too low, ALWAYS gear it UP by adding teeth to the front sprocket until you either . . . 1) achieve the gearing you want, or . . . 2) run out of space to add more teeth. This means you should never, ever use a 12-tooth or 13-tooth countershaft sprocket, unless you have already installed the largest rear sprocket you can find and you still need lower gearing. And if you need taller gearing, ONLY when you have no more space to install a larger front sprocket should you start subtracting teeth from the rear. For example, I have a Honda XR650R and my current sprocket combo is 17/54, because 17t is the largest countershaft sprocket that will fit. The DRZ400 has a 5-speed transmission with a notoriously narrow 2.65:1 overall ratio (OAR) that everyone complains about. The "S" model also has final drive gearing that's too low for extended hiway cruising, so the SOP (standard operating procedure) on the DRZ400 is to replace the 15t countershaft sprocket with a 16t without even thinking about it (16t is the largest that will fit the DRZ). If I were you, I'd get a 16-tooth c/s sprocket and see how you like that gearing. One more tooth on the front will make a big difference. If that's too much -- not likely -- you then get a rear sprocket with one or two teeth more than your current rear sprocket, to bring the gearing back down a bit. Keep in mind that on your bike, adding or subtracting one tooth up front is almost exactly the same as adding or subtracting three teeth in the rear, so going from 15 up front to 16 would be almost the same as going from 44 down to 41 in the rear. However, having the larger 16t up front would be much, much better for the chain. Likewise, the principle on rear sprockets is that a larger rear sprocket will increase the speed of the chain, but it will reduce the amount of tension on the chain significantly -- and the reduced tension is far more important to chain longevity (as is the larger front sprocket), so going up one tooth in front is far better than going down three teeth in the rear. So ideally, your final sprocket combo would be one of the following . . . Taller: 16/42 16/43 16/44 16/45 16/46 Same as stock: 16/47 Lower: 16/48 16/49 16/50 16/51 16/52 Etc. Also, if you change your front sprocket to 16t, ride the bike like that for at least two weeks before you make any decision about further changes. Always give yourself time to adjust, adapt, and get a really good, matured sense of the results of a gearing change before making another change. Also, adding a tooth up front and possibly a few more in the rear might require a longer chain. Fine. Make that happen. Spend the money on a good quality chain-breaker. Buy a few links of chain from a local motorcycle shop and add them to your chain, or better yet, just buy a new, longer chain and use your chain breaker to adjust the length to fit your sprocket setup. Proper, USEFUL gearing is a make-or-break issue on any motorcycle, so do not skimp on spending money on a high-quality chain breaker or a new chain or more sprockets in order to find the gearing that serves your purposes. Spend the money and the time to figure out exactly what final drive gearing will be the most useful to you and will make you like your bike rather than curse your bike -- or even sell it. If it eventuates as necessary, become an expert on breaking and re-riveting chains, on lengthening and shortening chains. Do whatever it takes to get the gearing that makes you smile. If you start with a 16t countershaft sprocket, it will be an eye-opener. I guarantee it. It may be all you need.
My new E Ride Pro SS 2.0 E Moto e bike has a 19 inch rear wheel and 55 tooth sprocket stock. I'm going to a 16 inch rear wheel and 60 tooth sprocket and Warp 9 is building the wheel for me. Now I'm "re thinking it" and hoping that's not to "RADICAL" of a change, going lower diameter tire size plus 5 tooth larger sprocket! I'm not worried so much in losing top end speed as I mainly just trail ride and hills, hills and technical stuff. Any thoughts or opinions would be most welcome! Thanks for the advice and great Video! : )
Lol I’m out here. I went from 15/45 to 13/50 on my xr650r. Bike only sees off-road so it’s perfect. I don’t even need to be doing 80 mph off road anyways. I used to do 110+ mph on the street and still be able to launch in 3rd with the old gearing. And it still came up in 4th. Yes the new gearing is much and I wish I watched this vid but it’s awesome tho. For off road u want to go as low as possible tbh
When I or friends of mine buy trackish bikes to ride where we ride in the tight and granite gnarly trails. We usually drop one in the front and add in the rear accordingly 2/3 something around there. Iv taken straight up track bikes from others and set them up with diff sprockets and won pretty crazy hairscrambles.
@@carelrossouw7838 yes it all depends on how it’s riding now if it has bad bottom end but it’s high rpm fast that’s a good way to start off. But if it’s all bottom end power you might want to do that backwards. My friend baught a ktm 450 it’s all bottom end power 5th gear going slow crack the throttle and it stands straight up. That’s to much grunt. So I went up on the front and down in the rear to try to make the power more smooth. Now he has a first gear rideable in the woods.
I am lowering the gearing from oem 16 front, 41 rear to 15 front , 42 rear If I go 1 down on the front and 1 up on the rear is this a better combination rather than going 1 down on the front on a KTM Duke 790
I did the 12/50 on an old xr200r but went back to the 13 since it wears on the slider and pretty much felt the same. The bike is geared like a tractor. My CRF250L Rally however needs a little more get up and go on the highway on slight hills or wind. I'm thinking of a 43 or 45 rear but leaving the 14 front alone. Do you think an odd hunting ratio odd/45 with an even/14 set up would wear better for both sprocket and chain. This was a common discussion in the automotive world for the differential axle back in the day.
Odd or even numbers of teeth on the sprockets DOES NOT MATTER. At all. If you need more pep on the hiway, you need a bike with more motor. If you gear your bike down for more zing at hiway speeds, the resulting higher RPM will likely drive you batty.
So i went from a 14/41 to a 14/43 i changed the chain and sprocket out becuase the old ones looked worn and my chain kept loosing tension. I habe a 2018 ninja 400. Now with the 43 tooth in thebtear i get overrev around 6k in every gear so is the sprocket my problem or not because ive already bought a new clutch
If you do the division the other way the numbers come up with your actual ratio. for example 15 front 45 rear. 45/15=3, therefore 3:1 ratio. This means 3 revolutions of the primary sprocket to 1 of the rear. Just my 2 cents and is easier to visualize.
So does this mean that like, lets say you were trying to convert a honda xl 250r to a street bike (mine isn't a street bike anymore), if you change the front, could it possibly handle going 80+?
This is so good. I just want to take "power" and do a find & replace with the word "torque". Let's say you're in a river standing on a log, trying to roll it. Torque gets the log rolling. Horsepower is what allows you to spin it even faster.
Hey i have a Honda which runs on 14/45 im thinking of upping the rear from 45 to a 47 will i have to add chain links or can i just adjust the rear tyre to sit on it...
I bought a older Ducati Monster 900 from a buddy of mine. sometime ago he changed the rear sprocket to a smaller sized one. the bike had quick take off but it topped out about 109mph. I bought the bike and a I replaced the smaller rear sprocket with the factory default size. the take off on the bike was unnoticeable. but the top end went from 109 mph to a whopping 112mph... for $80 and a few hours labor I gained 3 MPH.
@@Hsp44 very true. it will decrease the top end speed, but it will increase the acceleration. my point was that i changed to the smaller factory size and only gained a few MPH on the top end. and to be honest it didn't change the take off at all.
No, no, no. This is all wrong! You are calculating your gear ratios backwards. 13tf and 50tr = 3.84 to 1 not .26. You've just confused thousands of people!
Well I guess I'm going to find out by myself on an electric dirt bike 1500 w see if it makes a difference I want to see how much of a difference it makes
HI enjoyed the video. I just picked up a 2003 GSXR600, and I found a SpeedoHealer under the seat cowl, so I checked out the rear sprocket, and it has a 42 teeth count, I have not pulled the front gear cover yet, but can you tell me you someone would go down -2 in the rear. OEM for my bike is 16-45. Thanks, and keep the videos coming.
I put a 40 rear on my 1250 bandit stock is 43 front is 17 tooth like a 2 ratio 40 divided by 17 its a sports tourer 6speed box I love it take of in second it feels electric smooth better fuel economy and I never really need too be above 3000rpm we're All the torque is
Only problem dropping front tooth say 15 front 45 rear xr 400 to a 13 front tooth U will wear out front sprocket faster keep front stock and change rear only down side have too change chain length and also what terrain your riding excluding road were U want top end big front small rear so engine isn't screaming on Black stuff
I have a concern. I ride a KX 125cc 2002. It has 52t. When I try to hit jumps with short take off area, I end up casing most of them. What tooth ratio would you recommend for this bike?
If my stoxk front is 15 T and stock rear is 45T >> if i go for 14T in front or 47 T in rear this would make me rev higher i.e lower speed higher rpm and if i choose a 16T front or 43 T rear, i can accelerate faster and get higher speed for a given rpm...is this correct? (A fan from India)
I have a 14 tooth clutch running to a 36t rear sprocket the bike barely takes off I just used the sprocket I had but I'm going to order a rear sprocket and not sure which one to order maybe a 60 tooth with the 14 tooth clutch I don't know
what bike do you have? 36t rear to a 60t will about half your top speed. if you know the stock gears I can tell you what back sprocket for your 14 tooth youll need to be stock speeds and you can change it a little from there,
So what would you recommend on a mini chopper 10 in wheel 150 lb person with a 14 tooth clutch what rear sprocket would run about 60 mph and still have the torque to take off with a 208 CC
@@williamedwards7315 What bike model do you have? Briggs & Stratton with out a transmission would need 1-1 gearing to go 58mph @ 3,600 rpm on a 10 inch wheel. I need to know you bike to tell you what would top out at 60mph.
i WEnt down to a 15 tooth sprocet as a result of the shop that i'd booked to replace my chain/ sprocket ordering non standard by mistake. Gotta be honest, it felt great on initial wind up but i feel that it ust imitates the revvy feeling of a 600. Dunno if i like tbh
I haven't watched the whole video yet but I had a 400 it was during the Gap years before they discontinued the big rebels. And I went from a 5 and 3/4 rear sprocket to a 4-inch rear sprocket completely forgetting about the circumference of circles and I went from doing 80 mph top speed to about 140 I'll leave it to you to look up pie and all that stuff and do the math but it's a real thing that works and I didn't lose any of my acceleration which is what really astounded me I actually accelerated faster
Great Video. Quick question: I have a 30 hp (9000 rpm), 24 nm torque (7500 rpm). 14T front and 46 T rear. Max speed 145 kmph, 10000 rpm. Best range for the bike for power and torque is from 6000 rpm. I want better acceleration. So which is better front sprocker change 1 toothbdown or rear 1 tooth down or after market ECU map or Fuel injection like fuel x pro?
Do you have a Duke 250? Fuel X pro would be a great addition regardless of the sprocket configuration. But I would suggest going 1 Tooth less on the Front and leave the Rear stock. Happy riding!
1 down on the front, 2 up in the rear if top speed isn't a major factor. It will increase your torque a lot more. Will also bring your gearbox ratios closer as well. If you do a lot of trail riding, it could be a huge benefit. It's best to play around with a few different sizes until you find one that suits your needs.
How much slower am I going to go if I go down a tooth in miles per hour is it just like 3 mph or is it 10 miles per hour what does it depend on what kind of bike you're using motorcycle electric bike anyone know I'm thinking about 3 mph
I go with the biggest front sprocket that will fit the bike, because it saves he engine and the chain, because with a smaller front sprocket the engine spins to fast and wears everything out, that why i put the biggest front sprocket to save the engine and i fix my gearing by up or down with the teeth on the rear sprocket, been doing it this way for years,!
What is better in performance, (if there is a difference other than budget or weight on rear sprocket), if I choose a 3.00 GR. a 15/45 or a 16/48. Thank you
a 16/48 will last a little longer as you'll have more teeth distributing that power, but functionally both are the same. just make sure you've got a long enough chain :)
I've got a motorized 100cc bicycle that goes 40mph with a 26 inch tire with a 28 tooth rear sprocket and a 10 tooth drive sprocket but im finally getting my hands on a 11 tooth drive sprocket and to my surprise going from a 10 tooth drive sprocket to a 11 tooth drive sprocket gives it a 5mph increase which gives it a top speed of 45mph now.
If your road racing the acceleration is critical. You must balance the weight against the gearing so each tooth is important. In trials enduro ect weight is less important so gearing is more important you can have a longer chain with a big rear sprocket. Each track requires a different ratio. That's why racers have pile of sprockets.
Made a huge difference on my old FZ1. Taking off from a stop was awful. Zero bottom end torque. Thought I was going to fry my clutch. 1 up on the main sprocket solved it.
Wonderful video, close in quality to fortnine. Love the channel, you earned a sub. High quality information given in a way that is very easy to understand, music that is at the perfect volume, great mic quality and confident speaker, long single takes instead of constantly cutting because you messed your words up. Keep doing a great job man!!
"Close in quality to Fortnine" ? ? ? That's a laugh, because this video is terrible. This guy shouldn't be allowed anywhere near a math problem or any discussion about gearing.
@linguinatorschwartz9309 I was talking about the editing and composition quality being close to fortnine, dick. You wanna make claims that someone's math is wrong, you better be ready to provide an explanation to back it up as well. Don't just say someone is wrong. You have no credibility. When you say someone is wrong, say WHY, prove them wrong. This comment makes me S.M.H.
1 T less in front. or maybe 2T, if its not enough. Remember u r shorting the gear. So top speed is reduced. 1T equating to thousands of rpm is huge. so know what u r doing!
Rear sprocket: more teeth for power (torque) less teeth for speed. Front sprocket is the exact opposite: more for torque, less for speed. Rule of thumb: 1 tooth on the front is equal to about 3 on the rear.
This is apropos of nothing, others have made good comments, but should you gear your race bike to redline in top gear at the braking point of the longest straight?? Discuss
Don't confuse "power" with "torque" The power developed by the engine does not alter. You have two routes when it comes to gearing. More Acceleration/Torque - Less Top Speed Or More Top speed - Less Acceleration/Torque
My crf300L can go 70-75mph freeway speeds but is a dog off-road. I'm gonna drop a tooth in the front so I don't have to swap my chain. It's worth about 3 teeth in the rear, but if I went up 3 in the rear I'd need to resize my chain. The 300L isn't a freeway bike, so I'm not going to miss the mph
One problem with starting on the rear is that rear sprockets can cost three to four times as much as a front one....my experience has been that if you think you might need a little more or less try starting with the front sorocket. One tooth will let you know that it was either way too much, a little too much or just right.. you can always put the original front back on and then change one or two on the rear. At least a $20.00 front will give a good idea where to go with an $80 or more rear.
Absolutely , 1 tooth on the rear is a total waste of time/ money, start with the front.
This is true, to get a quick feel. But generally the front gets eaten up much faster, so it's not a long term solution. It's better to change both by 1-2 teeth so you get a better final ratio.
Dude in the video got his math backwards for gear ratios
Smaller front sprockets wear out the chain and themselves more rapidly. Larger front sprockets wear the chain less and wear out more slowly themselves, making both components last longer.
So the guiding principle is that you should always use the largest front sprocket that will fit your bike and which will still allow you to achieve the gearing you desire.
Therefore, if you need to gear your bike UP, for more top-end speed or a lower cruising RPM or to make first gear more useful if it's too low, ALWAYS gear it UP by adding teeth to the front sprocket until you either 1) achieve the gearing you want, or 2) run out of space to add more teeth. ONLY when you have no more space to install a larger front sprocket should you start subtracting teeth from the rear. For example, I have a Honda XR650R and my current sprocket combo is 17/54, because 17t is the largest countershaft sprocket that will fit.
Keep in mind that having larger sprockets in both positions is much, much better for the chain, with the priority on the larger front sprocket. The larger rear sprocket will increase speed the chain moves, but it will also reduce the amount of tension on the chain significantly, and the reduced tension is far more important to chain longevity -- as is the larger front sprocket.
Also, if you make a major change your gearing, such as adding a tooth to your front sprocket, ride the bike like that for at least two weeks before you make any decision about further changes. Always give yourself time to adjust, adapt, and get a really good, matured sense of the results of a gearing change before spending more money on sprockets to make another gearing change.
Also, adding teeth up front and a possibly a few more in the rear might require a longer chain.
Fine.
Make that happen.
Spend the money on a good quality chain-breaker. Buy a few links of chain from a local motorcycle shop and add them to your chain, or better yet, just buy a new, longer chain and use your chain breaker to adjust the length to fit your new sprocket setup. Proper, USEFUL gearing is a make-or-break issue on any motorcycle, so do not skimp on spending money on a high-quality chain breaker or a new chain or more sprockets in order to find the gearing that serves your purposes and gives you gearing-relief.
Spend the money and the time to figure out exactly what final drive gearing will be the most useful to you and make you like your bike rather than curse your bike -- or even sell it. If it eventuates as necessary, become an expert on breaking and re-riveting chains, on lengthening and shortening chains. Do whatever it takes to get the gearing that makes you smile.
To recap:
1) Get the largest countershaft sprocket that will fit your bike.
2) Adjust the gearing from there by adding or subtracting teeth from the rear sprocket.
3) Do not allow your current chain length to limit what you do with sprockets. Buy the tools and change your chain length if necessary.
4) Never use a new rear sprocket with an old chain, and vice versa. The old, stretched chain will ruin the new sprocket, and vice versa. Front sprockets are so inexpensive that you should replace them like candy. The INSTANT you can see visible wear on your countershaft sprocket, replace it to preserve your chain. You should go through at least two countershaft sprockets during the life of every rear sprocket and every chain.
@@linguinatorschwartz9309 bro your comment taught me more than any video
So for example, my KTM 690 Enduro makes almost 120MPH, which is kind of ridiculous on an Enduro bike , but the 690 Enduro is more of a dualsport street - offroad bike. I do not ride that much on-road on my 690 Enduro nowadays, I ride more gravel roads and not too technical forest trails. I never ride over 100mph on it, I have like a 40 min highway ride to get to the off-road parts around where I live.
So I am now thinking of changing the sprockets on my 690 Enduro, since I never go over 100MPH, I do not care if I loose 20MPH from 120MPH top speed. Sidenote my bike currently makes 73.9 hp, 69nm torque on rear wheel on dynojet and the bike weighs 149kg/328LBS fully fulled so I am not riding any advance motocross trails with it. I always thought my friends KTM 530 exc was fast but this 690 is insane
I was thinking maybe going 2 teeth less on the front sprocket and 3 teeth more on the back sprocket, would that give the bike a noticeable increase in acceleration and much less top speed ?
Nice job. I noticed a lot of people today didn't know this. I went from a 40 tooth to a 48 tooth on my Apollo, because it is designed to do 70 mph. I maybe crazy but not that crazy to do 70 on dirt. Now I can do about 55 mph, but get the most out of that 17 hp motor. Hey I'm old and poor, but I'm still riding.
Rock on brother!
I've hit a gravel road on a cruiser going 65 from pavement.... Definitely like drinking a coffee. Haven't done it many times lately because jerks doing burnouts making it bumpy.
@@boycottjews I would have had to change my shorts.
I’m 71 and ridden my Husaberg 650 down the deep sand beach in Baja at 95 mph indicated on my Trail Tech GPS with 14x45 gearing. Bike wasn’t even wound out.
@donaldgrant9067 "Appallo" ? Do you mean Apollo ? Is that those smaller, fiddy kind of bikes ? I remember I had like a small 125 fiddy bike when I was younger, I think it said Apollo on the side of the tank that is why I recognize that name.
The mind twister for me today was thinking that the rear TIRE diameter works the same as the rear SPROCKET diameter because I mean they are both being effectively driven by the front sprocket....but in fact a smaller diameter TIRE gears the bike DOWN....right? as opposed to a smaller diameter rear SPROCKET that would gear the bike UP ....do I have this right? Mentally it had me squirming LOL. But bigger diameter tire turning the same number of RPMs goes farther hence faster but a bigger sprocket goes less farther so slower ....bizarre
Actually, divide the rear by the front. Like 48/20= 2.4. So your final drive ratio is 2.4:1.
I remember racing my CRF450 at Supermoto fondly! I messed around with gear ratio's for certain tracks, but I found happy medium with a 14-42! This produced great top end, which was needed for Supermoto!
Yea my fe501 is a bit geared taller in the back and I definitely could use some more top end, thats why i have a 1krr🤣
im using the same 14-42 but on a 150 but it feels like it needs a 6th gear, should i up my front sprocket?
@@fakenooby on a 150cc it will rev higher with that ratio! Maybe a taller front sprocket?
@@m12ttd ooh i though that ratios would be kind of the same on every bike, thanks for letting me know! I think ill up it to a 16 tooth
Good explanation. But the bike won’t have more power by adding a tooth in the back. You have more torque applied to the rear wheel.
Good job, here's another example of a bikes subtleties, I changed gearing on my 600 thumper from 14/42 (3.00 to one) to 14/47 (3.36 to one) on steep single track I found I needed just a touch more low end from 2nd to 3rd, then I installed my Arrow stainless steel slip on pipe (Arrow make pipes for Yamaha race teams) and gained slightly more torque which cleared up that low end so there was no need to change gearing again, sometimes the smallest change is all you need, same can be said for jetting or suspension.
I have GS750 and me putting on new sprockets and chain. The new rear sprocket is larger. I honestly would not mind having the power come in a tad later. I mean right now you crack the throttle and it goes!!
This is a good video to have because I bought a Honda Shadow 750 TODAY (I'm sooooo stoked after 20 years of not riding !!!) and the previous owner replaced the rear sprocket with ONE more tooth and he said it made all the difference in the world and it can now cruise at 2200 RPM at 65 mph with two people riding.
Swap the word power for acceleration. Smaller rear sprocket increasing top speed at the expense of acceleration.
Is this the same for smaller front sprocket?
@@zakki3629 nah opposite for smaller front... better acceleration.. easier wheelies on smaller bikes
Torque!!!! Speed vs Torque
I just baught a sproket for my crf 450 r and the rear sproket is 51 teeth is that a good sproket?
I have 15/45 sprockets from factory on my naked 150cc bike, feels so slow in acceleration, then i change to 14/46 (-1 front and +1 back) it gives very significant change, like more climbing ability, the rpm much revs faster to redline, but i lose about 12 kmh in top speed, yeah for me it's okay because in my place there is lot of traffic jam and i like to ride with pillion so, i prefer torque than top end.. so going 1 up in rear and losing up 1 in front is just same as change to 4 up in the rear with no change at front..
The top speed raises an interesting question.
I'm looking at a dual-purpose bike, I want to be able to take it on and off-road, but the cruising speed tops out at 70-80mph.
If I wanted to hit and maintain those speeds more comfortably, let's say by trying to reach 100 in 5th gear with the same RPMs, do you think dropping a tooth or two off the rear sprocket would accomplish this?
It would be cheaper to switch your front sprocket to one with more teeth
@@superstraighthhwhitemale8880 so if I’m running a 13t and go to 15 that would give me more speed cause that’s what I’m looking for more mph
@@85bunnyville47 Try just one extra tooth first. Adding 2 to the front sprocket is a huge difference and might not fit anyways, depending on the bike.
The beauty of a chain and sprocket final drive is the ability to tailor your ridding style for the dirt or street !
Loved the video, you said that it is recommended to change a tooth at a time, what if I buy a new bike and change the rear sprocket from 50 to 42, it is a Honda CRF250F, is that bad for the transmission/engine?
went from 13/48 stock to 13/50 on my xr250r and its just an absolute tractor now. I dont run super fast, just trail riding and the xr has a 6 speed so it really gives it a crawler gear.
For my bike first gear was way to short. almost never used it except once by walking beside it when I had a flat.. stock is 13/50 looked at a calculator for speeds. going to a 14/46 going to drop my crusing speed by 850rpm and make 1st gear usable.
Smaller front sprockets wear out the chain and themselves more rapidly. Larger front sprockets wear the chain less, and wear out more slowly themselves, making them both last longer.
So the guiding principle is that you should always use the largest front sprocket you can that will still allow you to achieve the gearing you desire.
Therefore, if you need to gear your bike UP, for more top-end or a lower cruising RPM or to make first gear more useful, ALWAYS gear it UP by adding teeth to the front sprocket until you either 1) achieve the gearing you want, or 2) run out of space to add more teeth. ONLY when you have no more space to install a larger front sprocket should you start subtracting teeth from the rear.
I have a Honda XR650R and my current sprocket combo is 17/54. (17 teeth is the largest countershaft sprocket that will fit.)
@@linguinatorschwartz9309 Thankyou for the insight. 14 tooth is the largest a crf230f would fix. I had to modify the Chain Slider Guide / Swingarm Protector because how little room the 14t sprocket had so 15 tooth isn't a option. Is saying that. I hope your comment helps many more people in the future! Thankyou.
So, smaller for higher top end speed, and bigger for higher torque?
I’ve always been told one tooth in the front equals three in the rear
2.5
2.73
2.77
2.420
7
The motor still produces the same power, it’s thrust that changes with gearing changes.
By faster I take it you mean rate of change of velocity ie acceleration?
When you go smaller on the countershaft sprocket than 12 teeth. Your chain ware accelerates by approximately 30%.. because you have less teeth on the counter shaft sharing the load..
aluminum sprockets wear out way way faster than steel sprockets
that compounds how fast the chain wears out also, because if the sprockets are worn out, that wears the chain out, and if the chain is worn out, that wears the sprockets out..
I went one tooth larger on my countershaft sprocket on my Kawasaki Z 400 street bike.. within a half an hour I got a check engine code on my display… The onboard computer sensed that the wheel speed was changed in relation to the counter shaft speed..
my gear indicator also stopped working when that happened. there is a liquid crystal display on my instrument panel that displayed what gear I was in, up until that time that the check engine light came on..
I went back to the stock countershaft sprocket, and my engine was actually happier spinning a little faster through all the gears. It just felt as though the engine was running rougher/ lugging with the larger countershaft sprocket that I intended to lower the RPMs. But I was not lugging the engine. It felt stressed even at six or seven or 8000 RPMs. Redline is 12,000..
So I put the original countershaft sprocket back on, and went through the ritual of resetting the computer to get the check engine light to go out, and the gear position indicator to start working again. Which involved, turning the key off , let the machine idle for at least 30 seconds, then drive off continuously doing at least 25 miles an hour for 10 minutes. Repeat that three times, turn the key off, let it idle, ride the bike for at least 10 minutes, and my check engine light went off and my gear indicator started working again..
Juggling gear ratios is not as easy as it used to be. I carried a pretty wide selection of gears and different chain links on my road racing machines for different tracks. I always geared the machine so that I could red line 6th gear on the highest speed straight for at least half of the straight..
when I loop my chains I always leave the inside of the chain with 90 weight oil, that was a Honda recommendation back in the 1970s when I was a dealership mechanic, and I’ve always done that ever since. One drop between each roller plate on each side of the chain, where an O-ring chain has its O-rings, never use WD-40 or any other solvent on your chain..
don’t forget to check your chain tension when your chain is at its tightest. That is when the countershaft sprocket, the swingarm pivot, and the rear axle are in a straight line in relation to each other. That’s when your chain is at its tightest..
I saw a YZ 490 break the engine cases because the guy did not check his chain tension when he went up one tooth on the counter shaft. He went up over a jump in when he came down, the counter shaft polled and broke the engine case when he landed..
some motorcycles have a short output shaft on the transmission, and they are especially susceptible to chain tightness. The original CB Honda 750 was vulnerable to the tight chain. The chain may seem like it has enough slack, but you have to have The counter shaft, the swingarm pivot, and the rear axle all on the same plane, same level to check your chain tightness
Thanks for this bless you.❤
Was recommended going 1 down 2 up in the rear. Yea.. pretty snappy but some punk kid in a Honda Civic was taking me on top end only Gsxr 750. Going back to stock
I put a -1 front sprocket on the 2002 CBR954RR I used to have. That made a noticeable difference; as if the front end on that bike wasn't easy enough to raise up off the ground before....
I have a 2018 Honda Cbr650f front sprocket is 15t and rear sprocket is 42t I plan on upgrading to a 48t rear sprocket do you think I'd get some good gains adding 6t to the rear?
I wanna know how do you get a bicep like that...
Great advice and presentation, i prefer to work one gear like you mentioned instead of shifting up because the rev ask me to . Smoother and more predictable , i enjoy the power with control.
4:54 same problem bike just wanna go even when a lil bit of gas like coming to turn it times I hit power band outta no where be in shock like dude wth just happened
All I need to know is how many links in the chain do I need to add for + 1 tooth on rear sproket
none. just adjust wheel to new chain tightness
Had a 1986 GSXR 1100. put a bigger sprocket on the rear from sprocket specialist. had wheelie bars, Electric shifter, Mikuni 36mm carbs & Vance & Hines exhaust without the baffle. 9.80 quarter mile @ 146 mph. the lager rear sprocket was the key in the quarter mile.
I’m pretty happy with my bike. Just going down 3T on the rear to make the top end cruise a little better on the highway. Can’t wait to experiment and vlog it on my channel
Hello I need Help , I just Buy a Honda crf 300 l ,Just transform Supermotord with original sprocket 14 -40 ...I need more speed ...which will be better change
If I have a toque figure from a dyno run with stock gearing and it's say 90 foot pounds if I gear the bike down say -1 on the front and +1 on the rear. Will the torque figure change on the dyno? I know the outright hp figure won't but I'm unsurs about the torque.
I changed up my gearing from 13-49 to 13-52 just assuming it was more what I'd like. Hella difference and taking awhile getting used to it. I'm on a tc250 and when the power hits I'm shocked, wishing I went one tooth at a time cause its almost too much. I ride both woods and track but nervous to get on a track this year lol
Be a man !
13/50 was perfect for me on a beta 250rr
@@Ice_box714 Being a man means using your head, which obviously you do not. So I'm not sure what to call you.
I’m assuming you’re joking.
Hi so I have an 07 Kawasaki Vulcan vn900 classic and want to put a aftermarket rim 240 40-18 with a custom pulley. The OEM pulleys. Is 34 front and 62 rear how much teeth can I drop on the rear and still function without messing with the front? If that makes any sense 🙏🏼
Question, I have 16 front 42 rear on my kz650 but I want to gear up for more top speed. What would you recommend? Thanks
Im adding another point... im struggling on my TC250 with extremely stiff front end and soft rear end... I theorize on adding two teeth at the rear sprocket so my wheel base drops, and my power increases... helping absorb the load under hard impacts translating it into forward motion rather than down motion (My back is fckn killing me!) plus, third gear is a little laggy and second gear is not as aggressive as it can be... Gonna help with that regard, bike is in theory gonna be more of a hand full but its well balanced so id rather sacrifice the power output to better that torque
I'm currently changing my chain and sprockets I have changed to a 42 on the rear this time instead of 41 do I need to add a extra link in chain or keep the same as it and just adjust the wheel
Hmmm. Some miss use of terms, there. If you increase the rear sprocket by one tooth, the front sprocket has to rotate further to move the rear sprocket the same as before. If the task is accomplished in less time (faster, as you said), then it took more power to do so. If you go one tooth less on the rear, then the front sprocket will rotate less. Torque is rotational force, and if the engine can produce enough , can complete the task in the same given time. It is the increase in rotational force required (torque) to complete the task that has tamed your 450.
I have a stock drz400s. I don’t ride rear technical trails. It’s more of a desert, fire road bike but there are a lot of hills here. I kind of want more top end so I can ride it to work. I don’t feel comfortable going 70mph for more than an exit or 2. I believe my bike has 14/44 gears. Would a 43 tooth make much difference?
No, it wouldn't.
Smaller front sprockets wear out the chain and themselves more rapidly than larger front sprockets. Larger front sprockets wear the chain less, and wear out more slowly themselves, making both components last longer.
So the guiding principle is that you should always use the largest front sprocket you can that will still allow you to achieve the gearing you desire, even if that means you have to by a larger rear sprocket and a longer chain.
Therefore, if you need to gear your bike UP, for more top-end speed or a lower cruising RPM or to make first gear more useful because it's too low, ALWAYS gear it UP by adding teeth to the front sprocket until you either . . .
1) achieve the gearing you want, or . . .
2) run out of space to add more teeth.
This means you should never, ever use a 12-tooth or 13-tooth countershaft sprocket, unless you have already installed the largest rear sprocket you can find and you still need lower gearing. And if you need taller gearing, ONLY when you have no more space to install a larger front sprocket should you start subtracting teeth from the rear. For example, I have a Honda XR650R and my current sprocket combo is 17/54, because 17t is the largest countershaft sprocket that will fit.
The DRZ400 has a 5-speed transmission with a notoriously narrow 2.65:1 overall ratio (OAR) that everyone complains about. The "S" model also has final drive gearing that's too low for extended hiway cruising, so the SOP (standard operating procedure) on the DRZ400 is to replace the 15t countershaft sprocket with a 16t without even thinking about it (16t is the largest that will fit the DRZ). If I were you, I'd get a 16-tooth c/s sprocket and see how you like that gearing. One more tooth on the front will make a big difference. If that's too much -- not likely -- you then get a rear sprocket with one or two teeth more than your current rear sprocket, to bring the gearing back down a bit.
Keep in mind that on your bike, adding or subtracting one tooth up front is almost exactly the same as adding or subtracting three teeth in the rear, so going from 15 up front to 16 would be almost the same as going from 44 down to 41 in the rear. However, having the larger 16t up front would be much, much better for the chain.
Likewise, the principle on rear sprockets is that a larger rear sprocket will increase the speed of the chain, but it will reduce the amount of tension on the chain significantly -- and the reduced tension is far more important to chain longevity (as is the larger front sprocket), so going up one tooth in front is far better than going down three teeth in the rear.
So ideally, your final sprocket combo would be one of the following . . .
Taller:
16/42
16/43
16/44
16/45
16/46
Same as stock: 16/47
Lower:
16/48
16/49
16/50
16/51
16/52
Etc.
Also, if you change your front sprocket to 16t, ride the bike like that for at least two weeks before you make any decision about further changes. Always give yourself time to adjust, adapt, and get a really good, matured sense of the results of a gearing change before making another change.
Also, adding a tooth up front and possibly a few more in the rear might require a longer chain.
Fine.
Make that happen.
Spend the money on a good quality chain-breaker. Buy a few links of chain from a local motorcycle shop and add them to your chain, or better yet, just buy a new, longer chain and use your chain breaker to adjust the length to fit your sprocket setup. Proper, USEFUL gearing is a make-or-break issue on any motorcycle, so do not skimp on spending money on a high-quality chain breaker or a new chain or more sprockets in order to find the gearing that serves your purposes.
Spend the money and the time to figure out exactly what final drive gearing will be the most useful to you and will make you like your bike rather than curse your bike -- or even sell it. If it eventuates as necessary, become an expert on breaking and re-riveting chains, on lengthening and shortening chains. Do whatever it takes to get the gearing that makes you smile.
If you start with a 16t countershaft sprocket, it will be an eye-opener. I guarantee it. It may be all you need.
My new E Ride Pro SS 2.0 E Moto e bike has a 19 inch rear wheel and 55 tooth sprocket stock. I'm going to a 16 inch rear wheel and 60 tooth sprocket and Warp 9 is building the wheel for me. Now I'm "re thinking it" and hoping that's not to "RADICAL" of a change, going lower diameter tire size plus 5 tooth larger sprocket! I'm not worried so much in losing top end speed as I mainly just trail ride and hills, hills and technical stuff. Any thoughts or opinions would be most welcome! Thanks for the advice and great Video! : )
Lol I’m out here. I went from 15/45 to 13/50 on my xr650r. Bike only sees off-road so it’s perfect. I don’t even need to be doing 80 mph off road anyways. I used to do 110+ mph on the street and still be able to launch in 3rd with the old gearing. And it still came up in 4th. Yes the new gearing is much and I wish I watched this vid but it’s awesome tho. For off road u want to go as low as possible tbh
When I or friends of mine buy trackish bikes to ride where we ride in the tight and granite gnarly trails. We usually drop one in the front and add in the rear accordingly 2/3 something around there. Iv taken straight up track bikes from others and set them up with diff sprockets and won pretty crazy hairscrambles.
I have a crf 250r will your technique work on my bike
@@carelrossouw7838 yes it all depends on how it’s riding now if it has bad bottom end but it’s high rpm fast that’s a good way to start off. But if it’s all bottom end power you might want to do that backwards. My friend baught a ktm 450 it’s all bottom end power 5th gear going slow crack the throttle and it stands straight up. That’s to much grunt. So I went up on the front and down in the rear to try to make the power more smooth. Now he has a first gear rideable in the woods.
I am lowering the gearing from oem 16 front, 41 rear to 15 front , 42 rear If I go 1 down on the front and 1 up on the rear is this a better combination rather than going 1 down on the front on a KTM Duke 790
What's a good gear ratio for an 06 cbr1000?
What happens to your speedometer reading if you change sprockets?
I did the 12/50 on an old xr200r but went back to the 13 since it wears on the slider and pretty much felt the same. The bike is geared like a tractor. My CRF250L Rally however needs a little more get up and go on the highway on slight hills or wind. I'm thinking of a 43 or 45 rear but leaving the 14 front alone. Do you think an odd hunting ratio odd/45 with an even/14 set up would wear better for both sprocket and chain. This was a common discussion in the automotive world for the differential axle back in the day.
Odd or even numbers of teeth on the sprockets DOES NOT MATTER.
At all.
If you need more pep on the hiway, you need a bike with more motor. If you gear your bike down for more zing at hiway speeds, the resulting higher RPM will likely drive you batty.
can u post some biceps exercises?
So if I go with bigger tires from a 110 to 120 both 90. What should I change my gearing to ?
If I go down on on rear will the gears seem longer?
Yes
So i went from a 14/41 to a 14/43 i changed the chain and sprocket out becuase the old ones looked worn and my chain kept loosing tension. I habe a 2018 ninja 400. Now with the 43 tooth in thebtear i get overrev around 6k in every gear so is the sprocket my problem or not because ive already bought a new clutch
just wondering do you have a license? for those HUGE GUNS
If you do the division the other way the numbers come up with your actual ratio. for example 15 front 45 rear. 45/15=3, therefore 3:1 ratio. This means 3 revolutions of the primary sprocket to 1 of the rear. Just my 2 cents and is easier to visualize.
So does this mean that like, lets say you were trying to convert a honda xl 250r to a street bike (mine isn't a street bike anymore), if you change the front, could it possibly handle going 80+?
This is so good. I just want to take "power" and do a find & replace with the word "torque".
Let's say you're in a river standing on a log, trying to roll it. Torque gets the log rolling. Horsepower is what allows you to spin it even faster.
I want to do drift on my duke 200, what should i improve, torque or horsepower?
I have a 2001 Yamaha blaster 200 what do I do for better top end
So, as a general rule, adding 1 tooth to the front is equal to dropping how many teeth on the rear?
Hey i have a Honda which runs on 14/45 im thinking of upping the rear from 45 to a 47 will i have to add chain links or can i just adjust the rear tyre to sit on it...
I bought a older Ducati Monster 900 from a buddy of mine. sometime ago he changed the rear sprocket to a smaller sized one. the bike had quick take off but it topped out about 109mph. I bought the bike and a I replaced the smaller rear sprocket with the factory default size. the take off on the bike was unnoticeable. but the top end went from 109 mph to a whopping 112mph... for $80 and a few hours labor I gained 3 MPH.
Bigger rear sprocket is gonna decrease the top speed not increase it
@@Hsp44 very true. it will decrease the top end speed, but it will increase the acceleration. my point was that i changed to the smaller factory size and only gained a few MPH on the top end. and to be honest it didn't change the take off at all.
No, no, no. This is all wrong! You are calculating your gear ratios backwards. 13tf and 50tr = 3.84 to 1 not .26. You've just confused thousands of people!
At .26 he's must trying to do 300mph
Just found this and glad someone already corrected it
Bro I thought that to , I was like wtf is he talking about😂
Yeah, i was like wuuuuut? Is this a Bike Course or a Bugatti Course?
Thanks. Decided not to watch after 10 seconds
Can I go down 4 teeth on the rear without changing my front sprocket?
Well I guess I'm going to find out by myself on an electric dirt bike 1500 w see if it makes a difference I want to see how much of a difference it makes
HI enjoyed the video. I just picked up a 2003 GSXR600, and I found a SpeedoHealer under the seat cowl, so I checked out the rear sprocket, and it has a 42 teeth count, I have not pulled the front gear cover yet, but can you tell me you someone would go down -2 in the rear. OEM for my bike is 16-45. Thanks, and keep the videos coming.
How much per tooth does it bring the rpm down?
I put a 40 rear on my 1250 bandit stock is 43 front is 17 tooth like a 2 ratio 40 divided by 17 its a sports tourer 6speed box I love it take of in second it feels electric smooth better fuel economy and I never really need too be above 3000rpm we're All the torque is
Only problem dropping front tooth say 15 front 45 rear xr 400 to a 13 front tooth U will wear out front sprocket faster keep front stock and change rear only down side have too change chain length and also what terrain your riding excluding road were U want top end big front small rear so engine isn't screaming on Black stuff
I have a concern. I ride a KX 125cc 2002. It has 52t. When I try to hit jumps with short take off area, I end up casing most of them. What tooth ratio would you recommend for this bike?
Front sprocket down one tooth.
What gear ratio would you recommend for a blaster because I feel it’s just not fast enough
If my stoxk front is 15 T and stock rear is 45T >> if i go for 14T in front or 47 T in rear this would make me rev higher i.e lower speed higher rpm and if i choose a 16T front or 43 T rear, i can accelerate faster and get higher speed for a given rpm...is this correct? (A fan from India)
I have a 14 tooth clutch running to a 36t rear sprocket the bike barely takes off I just used the sprocket I had but I'm going to order a rear sprocket and not sure which one to order maybe a 60 tooth with the 14 tooth clutch I don't know
what bike do you have? 36t rear to a 60t will about half your top speed. if you know the stock gears I can tell you what back sprocket for your 14 tooth youll need to be stock speeds and you can change it a little from there,
@@BensMiniToons it's a mini chopper there's a video on my channel listed under mini chopper real Harley parts
ive grinded 4 sprocket tooths off with my angle grinder and the bikes not faster wtf?
So what would you recommend on a mini chopper 10 in wheel 150 lb person with a 14 tooth clutch what rear sprocket would run about 60 mph and still have the torque to take off with a 208 CC
try 50 tooth it should still produce power and speed.
@@joegim okay I just ordered a 60 tooth I'll order a 50 tooth also and do a comparison with the 14 tooth clutch
@@williamedwards7315 What bike model do you have?
Briggs & Stratton with out a transmission would need 1-1 gearing to go 58mph @ 3,600 rpm on a 10 inch wheel. I need to know you bike to tell you what would top out at 60mph.
i WEnt down to a 15 tooth sprocet as a result of the shop that i'd booked to replace my chain/ sprocket ordering non standard by mistake. Gotta be honest, it felt great on initial wind up but i feel that it ust imitates the revvy feeling of a 600. Dunno if i like tbh
Yeah but, what gear you hittin that gym at? Fuggin 6th prolly. But with that staché the weights are probably lifting themselves.
I haven't watched the whole video yet but I had a 400 it was during the Gap years before they discontinued the big rebels. And I went from a 5 and 3/4 rear sprocket to a 4-inch rear sprocket completely forgetting about the circumference of circles and I went from doing 80 mph top speed to about 140 I'll leave it to you to look up pie and all that stuff and do the math but it's a real thing that works and I didn't lose any of my acceleration which is what really astounded me I actually accelerated faster
Great Video. Quick question: I have a 30 hp (9000 rpm), 24 nm torque (7500 rpm). 14T front and 46 T rear. Max speed 145 kmph, 10000 rpm. Best range for the bike for power and torque is from 6000 rpm. I want better acceleration. So which is better front sprocker change 1 toothbdown or rear 1 tooth down or after market ECU map or Fuel injection like fuel x pro?
Do you have a Duke 250?
Fuel X pro would be a great addition regardless of the sprocket configuration. But I would suggest going 1 Tooth less on the Front and leave the Rear stock.
Happy riding!
1 down on the front, 2 up in the rear if top speed isn't a major factor. It will increase your torque a lot more. Will also bring your gearbox ratios closer as well. If you do a lot of trail riding, it could be a huge benefit. It's best to play around with a few different sizes until you find one that suits your needs.
Whats best for wheelies
How much slower am I going to go if I go down a tooth in miles per hour is it just like 3 mph or is it 10 miles per hour what does it depend on what kind of bike you're using motorcycle electric bike anyone know I'm thinking about 3 mph
Sorry mistake stock front 18 tooth on bandit super tall gearing
I had a 2007 Honda CBR600RR and i couldn't wheelie on stock sprockets. I went down 1 tooth in the front and wheelies were easy.
I go with the biggest front sprocket that will fit the bike, because it saves he engine and the chain, because with a smaller front sprocket the engine spins to fast and wears everything out, that why i put the biggest front sprocket to save the engine and i fix my gearing by up or down with the teeth on the rear sprocket, been doing it this way for years,!
What is better in performance, (if there is a difference other than budget or weight on rear sprocket), if I choose a 3.00 GR. a 15/45 or a 16/48. Thank you
a 16/48 will last a little longer as you'll have more teeth distributing that power, but functionally both are the same. just make sure you've got a long enough chain :)
@@slow_bike_show thank you, I will check the length beforehand. I appreciate the input
I've got a motorized 100cc bicycle that goes 40mph with a 26 inch tire with a 28 tooth rear sprocket and a 10 tooth drive sprocket but im finally getting my hands on a 11 tooth drive sprocket and to my surprise going from a 10 tooth drive sprocket to a 11 tooth drive sprocket gives it a 5mph increase which gives it a top speed of 45mph now.
What would you change on a 450 to have less engine braking?
Replace the engine with a 250.
If your road racing the acceleration is critical. You must balance the weight against the gearing so each tooth is important. In trials enduro ect weight is less important so gearing is more important you can have a longer chain with a big rear sprocket. Each track requires a different ratio. That's why racers have pile of sprockets.
Made a huge difference on my old FZ1. Taking off from a stop was awful. Zero bottom end torque. Thought I was going to fry my clutch. 1 up on the main sprocket solved it.
I have a pw80 stock with 15t front and 35t back. I ordered a front sprocket with 10t and back with 41. What's the difference it's really gonna make
it almost doubles your gear ratio
stock 15/35 = .428 new 10/41 = .243
so lower geared -43% speed loss
Great explanation for a beginner to understand
Wonderful video, close in quality to fortnine. Love the channel, you earned a sub.
High quality information given in a way that is very easy to understand, music that is at the perfect volume, great mic quality and confident speaker, long single takes instead of constantly cutting because you messed your words up.
Keep doing a great job man!!
"Close in quality to Fortnine" ? ? ?
That's a laugh, because this video is terrible. This guy shouldn't be allowed anywhere near a math problem or any discussion about gearing.
@linguinatorschwartz9309
I was talking about the editing and composition quality being close to fortnine, dick.
You wanna make claims that someone's math is wrong, you better be ready to provide an explanation to back it up as well. Don't just say someone is wrong. You have no credibility. When you say someone is wrong, say WHY, prove them wrong.
This comment makes me S.M.H.
If I need some more torque which side to change …
Front or rear one ?
Smaller front or larger rear will achieve your goal
If i need faster acceleration, should i put bigger rear sprocket or bigger front sprocket or maybe both?? Please someone answer me
1 T less in front. or maybe 2T, if its not enough. Remember u r shorting the gear. So top speed is reduced. 1T equating to thousands of rpm is huge. so know what u r doing!
my bike have a 14 teeth spracket on the front and a 44 at the back how can I get more power from it
Mount turbo.
Changing gearing won't affect power.
so what would happen if i made both of them smaller?
Rear sprocket: more teeth for power (torque) less teeth for speed. Front sprocket is the exact opposite: more for torque, less for speed. Rule of thumb: 1 tooth on the front is equal to about 3 on the rear.
u mean front more for speed and less for torque
@@razielradd3016Yep. What I said was correct (that it's opposite) but I messed up the example 🤦♂
This is apropos of nothing, others have made good comments, but should you gear your race bike to redline in top gear at the braking point of the longest straight?? Discuss
Went from a 17/39 to a 16/40 on my zx10r. Have yet to ride new setup
How do you like it
@@brianbrooks5947 It’s nice! I need to get bike reflashed but she feels much more potent now!
Don't confuse "power" with "torque" The power developed by the engine does not alter. You have two routes when it comes to gearing.
More Acceleration/Torque - Less Top Speed
Or
More Top speed - Less Acceleration/Torque
Hey y’all I am trying to find out what I should change to make my bike have more torque I have a 14 tooth front and a 42 rear
I ride a 2006 CR260R. 13/52 also a 2008 CRF450R 13/52. Works for me.
My crf300L can go 70-75mph freeway speeds but is a dog off-road. I'm gonna drop a tooth in the front so I don't have to swap my chain. It's worth about 3 teeth in the rear, but if I went up 3 in the rear I'd need to resize my chain.
The 300L isn't a freeway bike, so I'm not going to miss the mph