DOT 5.1 is better. Doesn't damage the paint and compatible with DOT 4. Also, people should use CNC adjustable levers for the clutch and brake. Brembo RCS19 brake lever is the best upgrade over stock.
A tip from a grumpy old mechanic. Don't pump the brake handle. This can cause any air bubbles in the system to brak into tiny bubbles, think foam. This can lead to your brakes feeling nice and firm until those teeny tiny bubbles get back together into one big bubble. Then you have soft brakes again. Instead of pumping, simply squeeze the break lever, open your bleeder to let fluid and air out, close your bleeder, and repeat. Once no more air is coming out, then you can pump the lever to get a final pressurization in the system. No pumping = no foaming, and this means not risking having to do it again.
Yeah same. Now my rear breaks got no pressure, prolly full of air and no one sells that hose near me. So that's cool. Been working on fixing my rear master pressure for 2 hours now.
Just an extra tip, when you’ve reached the step to refill your reservoir after bleeding the calipers, take a quick look at your brakepads. If they are worn, but not completely worn out, don’t fill your reservoir all the way. When you replace the pads, the pistons in the calipers will push back the brake fluid into the reservoir. The fluid needs somewhere to go.
Extra tip number 2) You can instead when compressing the piston crack the bleeder and the extra fluid will go that way. Start with a little pressure on the piston, open the bleeder and close it again when piston is fully compressed. No air and no fuss.
Great guide. 2 important things to add: 1. Always use fresh bottle of brake fluid. You can't store it after you have opened it. 2. Use gloves AND eye protection. When you remove the hose there is a risk to get some splashes on you. Without eye protection this might not end well. Ask me how I know.
Good and entertaining video Ari! Little tip from me to owners of japanese ABS bikes: I had a SV 650 with ABS 2007, done the brake maintainance accordingly , even more often than recommented. 2 years after I've got the bike experienced ABS motor failure. I've got it exchanged etc. however I was dedicated on finding out what caused the failure. Turned out ... : When you flush you brake system the old brake fluid still remains in the ABS pump unless isn't activated, which isn't that common if you don't ride gravel or dusty roads. What happens is, what Ari explains that brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means that after 10 years in you abs pump the fluid looks like glaze from a burned pan, respectively corosion is being caused inside and soon or later causes issues on the sensitive components. When you flush your brake lines, go for a little ride, activate both abs circles ( front and rear) thus ensures that brake fluid from the abs unit has been transferred over the brake lines, which are flushed afterwards. Repeat the flushing procedure several times to make sure all the old fluid have circulated OR buy a BMW ! :D
Look at any service manual for abs models and you will see that they want you to hook it up to a diagnostic tool. Those tools can activate the ABS pump for brake fluid service and thus flush the ABS circle. It is hard to get your hands on such tools as a non brand specific mechanic, let alone as a private person. That’s why, if people want to get a brake flush done by a trained mechanic, they should go directly to the Manufacturer. As dumb as that sounds, but if you don’t have the tools for the job then you simply don’t have the Tools. (Or you can off course do it the way you said by activating the ABS, but that certainly can involve some risks one needs to take for a result)
@@A_Ride_To Not all manufacturers require or even suggest cycling the ABS pump during brake service. Prior to this vid I reached out to contacts at BMW, Honda, Harley-Davidson, Kawasaki, Suzuki, and Ducati, and only H-D required brake service be performed at a shop where the tech could manipulate the ABS via a diagnostic tool.
That's a good tip GSab. It's also good practice to engage the ABS so you know what it feels like in an actual emergency. BTW, did you disassemble the old ABS module?
@@AriH211 ok my bad, I really thought every manufacturer requires ABS service via an OBD type of Tool. At the same time really is a shame when they said that, because that means they don’t consider old brake fluid behind the ABS Pump a big deal (and might not even service it that way). I must say, I am a bit speechless.
I have bled many brake systems on bikes and this introduction to bleeding brakes is one of the best I have seen . Thanks for putting this up,there will be many watching this who have more confidence in doing the job for the first time . Well done .
One thing I learned is the dot next to the screw to identify the style of fastener, thanks. I always take a black plastic trash bag and cover up the tank along with paper towels, cheep insurance. I'm glad RevZilla picked up this guy, great addition to the team.
Pretty much the same procedure as the brakes. I personally like to take the clutch cylinder off, to give it a good clean, since sometimes they get gunk in them.
@@damianrc5322 Really depends on the style but if is absolutely a requirement on older Kawaski's because you need to inspect the (pretty guaranteed to be leaking) pushrod for oil contamination which leads to a slightly more involved service. On BIG hint if you do take it off, jamb a block of wood between the lever and the bar and ziptie it in place. You can ancidentally grab that lever at any point and in some slave cylinders than means the piston will pop right out. 90% of this time it means a (usually very cheap) rebuild kit will be needed.
This is a great video explaining how to bleed your motorcycle brakes. If you have an air compressor you might want to consider investing in a mityvac pneumatic operated fluid evacuator. The motorcycle shop I worked at had one and it worked so good I had to buy one myself. They will run you $100 but they are well worth it. When connected to compressed air they build a vacuum. You can use it to clean the reservoir and put fresh fluid in it to avoid sending any more old brake fluid through the brake system. They are also great for when the brake system has lots of air, like when you have changed out brake lines or calipers. It is one of the best tools I own for motorcycle work. They come with a nipple attachment that holds onto the bleeder for you, so once its connected to the bleeder you just loosen the bleeder and keep adding brake fluid at the reservoir until it has been fully bled.
@@patthewoodboy damn you are very salty bro everything okay with you? You got real hostile from a simple reply meaning for you to expand on your original comment
@@patthewoodboy oooohhhh brake "lever" that makes sense now. Instead of looking to pick a fight with someone in the youtube comments have you ever thought of meditation or something?
Like the tip on punching holes in the new brake fluid container, but Instead of cutting an X on the side of the milk bottle, what about cutting it into the lid? That way you can use another lid and it's totally sealed when done, no tape required.
I've known this procedure for a life time,(I'm 63). Used it on cars also. Only thing different is that we put the end of the hose into a jar with a little fluid in it already. That way we didn't have to keep opening and closing the bleeder because each pump stroke would only draw fluid back and not air. We just kept pumping until no more air bubbles in the line. BTW. Harley just did an unauthorised fluid change on my bike. Cost me $160 !!!! Thanks for your excellent video.
one thing he didnt mention, if you have a bleeder on your master cylinder start with that. i couldnt figure out what i did wrong since i followed the directions but still had a spongy lever that pulled allt the way into the bar until i noticed i had a bleeder valve at my master cylinder. run 2 full reservoirs of fluid through it, now it will be completely clean for when you do the lines. do the lines as normal then finish off again with bleeding the master cylinder before topping off. my lever now only has a perfect 1/2inch of play, are now STIFF with no sponginess and finally dont pull in all the way to the bars!
The only thing I’d add that we do in the shop is after you’ve bled the front a lot of the bikes will get air trapped in the horizontal parts of the master cylinder so it helps to remove the cover and tap on the side of it a bit and gently make little pulls on the lever until you stop seeing bubbles coming up out of the master cylinder into the reservoir.
@@levis3603 lol. There literally is a comment saying "finally" something right on top of your comment. I'm sure he was aiming to reply to that one. Just guiding him on the right path. The hate must go on, this is the internet after all 😋
Nice straightforward procedure, sprinkled with a few tips of the trade that really make the difference in your daily wrenching. The aluminum seal trick did it for me.
if you pull air in from the reservoir you can close the bleeder screw on the caliper and stick a flat head screwdriver in between the rotor and pad (gently) and pry open the pads which will send fluid back up towards the reservoir pushing all the air out of that end. Then fill the reservoir and continue as normal.
Fill syringes are a godsend - removing old fluids/adding fresh, extracting accidental oil overfill, precise application of grease/sealant, or a makeshift float level sight glass. I usually keep a few handy now.
started using a capri tools vacuum brake bleeder this year, cost like $85 bucks but is the most convenient thing ever when doing brakes. if you have one bike and do brakes every 2 years like in the manual this method is great, but if you have a few bikes and do brakes often you gotta get a vacuum bleeder. great video!
One tip, one suggestion Suggestion, buy a pair of large syringes from a vet for like $10. You can use them a ton in bikes, but suck the fluid from the master. Then use the syringe on the bleeder, push the fluid UP to the master. Never have a bubble doing it this way That JIS brand that was shown is Vessel. They also make other awesome screwdrivers, a $12 ball handle with bits, including JIS, and the Impacta! A JIS screwdriver and impact driver in one. Also pretty inexpensive, but it’ll pop off any stuck JIS fastener.
+1 back bleeding with a syringe was the only way I could bleed my brakes after rebuilding my caliper. I tried the traditional way but the fluid was just going past the air trapped in the caliper no matter how many times I repeated the process. Then I found out about the syringe method and it worked first try, quick and easy
Excellent bro. I watched like six or seven videos before I found yours and I finally felt confident about being able to do this. I’ve done it now I’ll comment back to let you know if it worked. Lol
I bought a five year old KLR650 with 1000 miles and now I'm realizing that there are a ton of PM items that I need to do simply because of the age of the bike. Thanks for this video and all of the other videos that show how easy most of those tasks can be.
That was one of the best tutorials on how to bleed motorcycle brakes. Clear, concise and brilliant tips. It was that good it has given me the confidence to have a go myself. Thank you.
Ari, I am impressed with the detail that your videos enlighten us with. Example- The JIS screwdriver. I didn't even know about them and I worked with Japanese co-workers @ Canon USA for 20 years! Also you mentioned the various metals in the fluid box, possible causing corrosion to watch out for. Excellent Shop Manual video!
Very true for bleed procedure. Other causes of brake sponginess can include old, worn master cylinder, bad seals on caliper, old brake lines, or even warped rotors.
You helped this girl out. I know a lot of my bike already but I never learned to do this. It might not be expensive but I love her all and I wanted to do it myself. For sure you got my subscription
I’m a big fan of using pneumatic air break fluid bleeder. It eliminates having to pump out the brake fluid using the brake lever also keeps thing clean. Just suck it out and keep filling the reservoir until you see clear fluid come out. Very easy and quick. And mine cost me 40$ so cheap to.
Very good tips. I especially the JIS mentioned. As kid I always F'd my moped carburator screw heads. It remained mystery for a very long time. Just few years ago one machine mechanic mentioned me the difference as he was teching me to work with one japanese machine. Indeed there is very slight difference in the profile which makes a huge difference. I immediately ordered myself a kit of JIS screw drivers. They're essential on even a bit older japanese bikes. But on that regard, someone told me that many latest japanese bikes don't have them anymore. I can't confirm this is as I ride older bikes, but just keep out eye for that dot. It's simple as that.
Nice video on how to bleed your brakes. I like to remove the soft black rubber diaphram cover and check for moisture build up. If I find signs of moisture, I first clean off the brake fluid side then lightly blow compressed air to blow on the non brake fluid side to remove the moisture.
Looks simple enough. I was about to buy some needle pump that someone else ended up not using correctly so now at least I know I dont have to worry about doing it the simple way.
Hi - Thanks a million - youve made the job one heck of lot easier & for the "Biggest" tip (for me) which was that the screws on the master are JIS (i would have just got the phillips out & torn them apart) & the next important was to draw out the fluid using a syringe -Thankyou
That's super. I've been bleeding my brakes not the right way for years. I've been pumping the leaver locking off the bleed nipple at the same time. It works but it's tricky. Top video. Terry
Haha I was just at the motorcycle store yesterday picking up fluids - oil, coolant, muckoff, etc - and was looking at the brake fluid thinking ‘I should really learn how to do that’, so great timing! I was put off by an overly complicated and messy process on my pushy a year or two ago, but this looks way more manageable than I thought ... if only I hadn’t just had my recycling collected lol
Ditch the philips / cross heads screws and get torx or alen head screws And use antisize. If the heads are stripped or stuck tap them with a punch and use a penetrate spray. On mx bikes you can spray from the bottom of the bolt. If they still down budge use a impact screw driver. If that doesn’t work drill off the top cone head of the the screw then the lid should be removable. cover the reservoir with tape. you might be able to grab the the screws now with a locking plier or put a notch in the screw with a dremel to use a flat head screw driver. if that still doesn’t work try a Ryobi screw extractor. Last chance is to drill through entire screw with a smaller bit and use a tap to clean the threads.
Excellent vid! That X in the bottle and upward loop were genius, never thought of that, add some weight to the bottle like someone else mentioned so it doesn't go flying. Mentioned everything I thought you'd leave out except making sure you get the res gasket seated before screwing it down. They can be old and dry on older bikes and better off with a new gasket.
oh man, i gotta get a little hose! my VTX1800 is a bit more involved due to all the piping and all the fluid the linked brakes use, but as always, thank you Ari!
Great video as always, but the tip on punching the two holes into the foil of the fresh bottle... Mind. Blown. So simple. SO useful. And not just for brake fluid.
Very informative vid and perfect for the amateur spannerman.I prefer the reverse method ie draining the old fluid then pushing the new fluid up through the system using a medical syringe. Cheers
About ABS bikes. It's good idea to activate ABS pump after fluid change and flush it again. Just hard press rear brake while riding and it'll activate. I learned this hard way, because ABS pumps on Yamaha's CP2 engines (i.e. mt07) are not very reliable (with old fluid they get faulty and makes high pitch noise when activated), so better keep a eye on fluid change intervals.
Clear and concise. Great video! Especially the ideas about punching two holes in the foil and the high loop in the discharge hose. I'm like, why didn't I think of that?!
Put a ziptie from the lever to the grip overnight as tight as you can make it. Remove it the next day and thank me. This works for rear brakes and hydraulic clutches as well.
@@ardencassie5150I’ve heard that it helps bleed air bubbles. The increased pressure “pushes” the air through the lines easier than when there is no pressure, so it slowly pushes the air up into the reservoir. Don’t think you should use it as a complete alternative to manually bleeding, but can do it after the main bleeding to make sure there’s no little bubbles left along the lines.
This makes the fluid absorb the air. It'll feel nice and hard to next day but when your emote the zip tie the air will eventually separate from the fluid again and you'll be back to a soft lever.
Just btw if you recently dropped your bike and your lever is soft and spongy, it might be your rotors which could be bent. Basically bent rotors push the pads in when you move the wheel. so just check them in case. Source: dropped bike while loading and spent 2 months trying to fix
Excellent video. I’ve done countless brake jobs on cars but was hesitant to do it on my bike. You made is easy and helped me feel confident to do the job! Also saves me $$$ from having a shop do it, and is rewarding working on your own bike. Thank you!!!
I've nearly stripped the master cylinder screws on my CBR300R before I finally picked up a legit set of JIS screwdrivers on Amazon (and new screws from the dealer)
I could say that the review informative, fun, really well paced and probably one of the best reviews of any kind I've watch for a while. But what I really want to say - kudos to RevZilla management for snatching Ari Henning for their media. What a bright, talented young man with a real spark.
Nice video Ari to show the new riders what to do! When I upgraded my Ninjas front and rear brake lines to Spiegler steel braided lines, I also installed "Speed Bleeders" on the calipers. Boy bleeding brakes is even easier and faster now when I do it!
Before radial master cylinders I used to zip tie my lever to the bar & turn my bars on full lock to the left overnight. It allows any stubborn bubbles up at the lever to flow back into the reservoir. Also the rubber seal is a diaphragm that extends & it's supposed to keep the space free from drawing air (& moisture) into the reservoir should you lose any fluid. It's probably obvious but if not; if the diaphragm/seal popped out, take it away from the bike (it can get splashy) & pop the folds back in place before bleeding.
Awesome video right to the point. I used every single one of your tips. That was long overdue on my bike the rear brake fluid looked like used motor oil. The front, not a whole lot better. New pads and fresh oil talk about stopping power. Next project fork oil.
Indian Scout rear brakes are known to be hard to bleed. It's just difficult to get all the air out. After replacing my rear brake light switch I had to bleed. I put a *Speed Bleeder" screw on and it really made the job easier for one person. I had better pedal than I had after the dealer had done a flush/bleed.
I use a soda bottle to catch the used fluid. I drilled a hole in the cap and put the tube in it; the hole should be small enough that the tube is snug. This is the equipment that I always have on hand. Then I get a new (empty) bottle and put my cap/tube on it. Once done, I put the new cap (without a hole) back on the bottle and it's ready to be disposed of. With the line snug in the drilled-out cap, the bottle can even fall over and nothing will leak. Cutting an "X" like you do allows for possible leakage.
Excellent and easy to follow. You are my go to for anything bike related. I like that you explain exactly why you are doing things and the reason for it. I started on the right side calliper but was confusing at first that you said start on the left. Does it really matter?
Thanks for that, really some very practical tips - always a pleasure to learn from someone who has both the experience and the "I wonder if that would work better..." attitude - and the tips with the x'ed bottle (or bottle cap, I suppose) and the two holes in the container wil absolutely get put to good use! Another tiny contribution which helped me at one point, getting some nasty trapped air pockets out of a system that was hopelessly bubbled up after messing up my initial attempts, and just wouldn't come out, regardless of how many containers of liquid I ran through: Putting pressure on the brake system obviously compresses the bubbles, making them smaller and in some cases easier to move. So it may help to use a velcro or zip tie to keep the handle pressed over night, and suspend the calipers in varying positions to allow such air pockets to move towards the bleeder eventually. Took me two nights, but it eventually came out - so satisfying to finally see that bubble in the hose, like a nasty dry cough eventually coming loose :)
I did this many times on my bikes and could still learn some small tricks. But isn't it also recommended to clean and check the rubber membrane on top of the reservoir? It always collects water drops over the time.
Great tips on some of the commonly overlooked stuff.....order for calipers and master cyl, looping the drain tube up and small pour/air holes in the brake fluid container. I've bled brakes may times and I've learned from this video. I've used a reverse injection bleeder system several time with varying degrees of success and have reverted to this "pump and dump" that's worked every time. Stubborn part has been on the master cyl at the lever and sometime its necessary to loosen the assembly and rotate the cyl to completely remove trapped air.
Great video Ari! Love the Shop Manual. I use a large seringe with the hose to bleed and to open the reservoir cover I often make use of a impact tool -hammer type (because the screws always get stuck).
They get stuck because you over-tighten them. Counter-sunk screws locks themselves when tightened. I am working on machines that have counter-sunk screws and the over-tightened ones makes sparks fly when you loosen them.
It's usually enough to hammer head with standard screw driver. Obviously screwdriver head should be a model that has through type head that's made for hammering. One of the first things older machine mechanic told me that if something is seriously stuck. Just keep hammering the head with light to moderate force. They usually give up, but it requires quite a bit of patience from mechanic. It can also work if you can tap female thread side, but that usually leaves marks and in most cases isn't possible at all. It's very good tip and used it much. Once my friend was struggling big time with big rusted nut. The thread part turned with seized nut. Taking block of metal to use as anvil and simply hammering sides of nut for a good while resulted nut to be taken out almost with bare fingers. I'm sure you knew about this, but hopefully it could be a good tip for many others :)
Ari you frickin rule. I'm loving these videos. You explain this stuff in a way that even I can understand. I've muddled through this stuff before but made a fricken mess. Never would have thought of the milk jug x cut. Keep doing these videos and my old fz1 will be in top shape before long.
For those who have completely empty new or old brake line. Wrap the line with rag or tower somewhere near the leaver so you don't damage it and pinch it with pliers. You making a one way valve by putting some resistance for fluid to fill the line. If u don't do this u wont manage to fill the line. U should mention this in the video too.
Good video! I know you mentioned there isn't much fluid in a bike, but I still really like the vacuum pumps.. Tons of cheap hand vacuum pump kits for $20 or so, other can actually use an air compressor. Makes brake bleeding so much faster on cars and motorcycles.
Read more about brake servicing on Common Tread: rvz.la/38goTSL
Excellent video and tips. Thanks a lot.
DOT 5.1 is better. Doesn't damage the paint and compatible with DOT 4. Also, people should use CNC adjustable levers for the clutch and brake. Brembo RCS19 brake lever is the best upgrade over stock.
@A A go back to your garage and Google answers about what's best lol
Dude I love your channel thank you so much
Hi guys nice video as always. Question does this method works also for Harleys? I have a 2017 xl883n iron sportster. Thank you
A tip from a grumpy old mechanic. Don't pump the brake handle. This can cause any air bubbles in the system to brak into tiny bubbles, think foam. This can lead to your brakes feeling nice and firm until those teeny tiny bubbles get back together into one big bubble. Then you have soft brakes again. Instead of pumping, simply squeeze the break lever, open your bleeder to let fluid and air out, close your bleeder, and repeat. Once no more air is coming out, then you can pump the lever to get a final pressurization in the system. No pumping = no foaming, and this means not risking having to do it again.
Wow, you actually made me feel capable of doing this...
That's the goal!
Yeah same. Now my rear breaks got no pressure, prolly full of air and no one sells that hose near me.
So that's cool. Been working on fixing my rear master pressure for 2 hours now.
@@DizzySpark my rear brake caliper only engages and is stuck
@@xXxVentrilloxXx aye same here my rear brake setup is currently stuck before watching but I think it’s cause I used dot3 not 4 idk tho
Super easy stuff but great video
Just an extra tip, when you’ve reached the step to refill your reservoir after bleeding the calipers, take a quick look at your brakepads. If they are worn, but not completely worn out, don’t fill your reservoir all the way. When you replace the pads, the pistons in the calipers will push back the brake fluid into the reservoir. The fluid needs somewhere to go.
Thanks for the reminder man. The first time I flushed I over filled and when I pushed the pistons back in I had a nasty overflow.
Did pads too. Forgot to include.
Extra tip number 2) You can instead when compressing the piston crack the bleeder and the extra fluid will go that way. Start with a little pressure on the piston, open the bleeder and close it again when piston is fully compressed. No air and no fuss.
@@rickhughes8998 should I fill it up to max when I have pistons pushed all the way back? Or when I have piston pushed all the way back with new pads?
@@Fordahord1 yes
Great guide. 2 important things to add:
1. Always use fresh bottle of brake fluid. You can't store it after you have opened it.
2. Use gloves AND eye protection. When you remove the hose there is a risk to get some splashes on you. Without eye protection this might not end well. Ask me how I know.
How you know
How you know?
How do you know?
How did you know?
How you know?
Good and entertaining video Ari!
Little tip from me to owners of japanese ABS bikes:
I had a SV 650 with ABS 2007, done the brake maintainance accordingly , even more often than recommented. 2 years after I've got the bike experienced ABS motor failure. I've got it exchanged etc. however I was dedicated on finding out what caused the failure. Turned out ... :
When you flush you brake system the old brake fluid still remains in the ABS pump unless isn't activated, which isn't that common if you don't ride gravel or dusty roads. What happens is, what Ari explains that brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means that after 10 years in you abs pump the fluid looks like glaze from a burned pan, respectively corosion is being caused inside and soon or later causes issues on the sensitive components.
When you flush your brake lines, go for a little ride, activate both abs circles ( front and rear) thus ensures that brake fluid from the abs unit has been transferred over the brake lines, which are flushed afterwards. Repeat the flushing procedure several times to make sure all the old fluid have circulated OR buy a BMW ! :D
Look at any service manual for abs models and you will see that they want you to hook it up to a diagnostic tool.
Those tools can activate the ABS pump for brake fluid service and thus flush the ABS circle.
It is hard to get your hands on such tools as a non brand specific mechanic, let alone as a private person.
That’s why, if people want to get a brake flush done by a trained mechanic, they should go directly to the Manufacturer.
As dumb as that sounds, but if you don’t have the tools for the job then you simply don’t have the Tools.
(Or you can off course do it the way you said by activating the ABS, but that certainly can involve some risks one needs to take for a result)
@@A_Ride_To Not all manufacturers require or even suggest cycling the ABS pump during brake service. Prior to this vid I reached out to contacts at BMW, Honda, Harley-Davidson, Kawasaki, Suzuki, and Ducati, and only H-D required brake service be performed at a shop where the tech could manipulate the ABS via a diagnostic tool.
That's a good tip GSab. It's also good practice to engage the ABS so you know what it feels like in an actual emergency. BTW, did you disassemble the old ABS module?
I have an older bmw and its ABSII is no picnic
@@AriH211 ok my bad, I really thought every manufacturer requires ABS service via an OBD type of Tool.
At the same time really is a shame when they said that, because that means they don’t consider old brake fluid behind the ABS Pump a big deal
(and might not even service it that way).
I must say, I am a bit speechless.
I have bled many brake systems on bikes and this introduction to bleeding brakes is one of the best I have seen . Thanks for putting this up,there will be many watching this who have more confidence in doing the job for the first time . Well done .
One thing I learned is the dot next to the screw to identify the style of fastener, thanks. I always take a black plastic trash bag and cover up the tank along with paper towels, cheep insurance. I'm glad RevZilla picked up this guy, great addition to the team.
Agree, I use saran wrap on any surface that the fluid might splash on.
love the addition of ari and zack to the channel!
Zach and Ari are filming together again? Awesome!
me too!
Thanks for the tips. Now I'm waiting for "how to bleed a hydraulic clutch".
Pretty much the same procedure as the brakes.
I personally like to take the clutch cylinder off, to give it a good clean, since sometimes they get gunk in them.
@@damianrc5322 Really depends on the style but if is absolutely a requirement on older Kawaski's because you need to inspect the (pretty guaranteed to be leaking) pushrod for oil contamination which leads to a slightly more involved service.
On BIG hint if you do take it off, jamb a block of wood between the lever and the bar and ziptie it in place. You can ancidentally grab that lever at any point and in some slave cylinders than means the piston will pop right out. 90% of this time it means a (usually very cheap) rebuild kit will be needed.
Yes I need that
Look up ktm clutch back bleeding
Only homosexuals watch that
This is a great video explaining how to bleed your motorcycle brakes. If you have an air compressor you might want to consider investing in a mityvac pneumatic operated fluid evacuator. The motorcycle shop I worked at had one and it worked so good I had to buy one myself. They will run you $100 but they are well worth it. When connected to compressed air they build a vacuum. You can use it to clean the reservoir and put fresh fluid in it to avoid sending any more old brake fluid through the brake system. They are also great for when the brake system has lots of air, like when you have changed out brake lines or calipers. It is one of the best tools I own for motorcycle work. They come with a nipple attachment that holds onto the bleeder for you, so once its connected to the bleeder you just loosen the bleeder and keep adding brake fluid at the reservoir until it has been fully bled.
Definitely helpful to see from a first person point I’ve view
Right on, good feedback.
Another quick tip: add some water to the receptacle to help keep it stationary on the shop floor or lift.
You could also add some clean left over brake fluid so if it sucks anything up during the initial opening of the bleeder it wont' suck in air.
@@Doctoberfest not needed if you are applying pressure to the lever as you open the bleed nipple
@@patthewoodboy I'm not sure how apply pressure to the bleeder prevents the possibility of sucking in extra air?
@@patthewoodboy damn you are very salty bro everything okay with you? You got real hostile from a simple reply meaning for you to expand on your original comment
@@patthewoodboy oooohhhh brake "lever" that makes sense now. Instead of looking to pick a fight with someone in the youtube comments have you ever thought of meditation or something?
Like the tip on punching holes in the new brake fluid container, but Instead of cutting an X on the side of the milk bottle, what about cutting it into the lid? That way you can use another lid and it's totally sealed when done, no tape required.
I've known this procedure for a life time,(I'm 63). Used it on cars also. Only thing different is that we put the end of the hose into a jar with a little fluid in it already. That way we didn't have to keep opening and closing the bleeder because each pump stroke would only draw fluid back and not air. We just kept pumping until no more air bubbles in the line. BTW. Harley just did an unauthorised fluid change on my bike. Cost me $160 !!!! Thanks for your excellent video.
one thing he didnt mention, if you have a bleeder on your master cylinder start with that. i couldnt figure out what i did wrong since i followed the directions but still had a spongy lever that pulled allt the way into the bar until i noticed i had a bleeder valve at my master cylinder. run 2 full reservoirs of fluid through it, now it will be completely clean for when you do the lines. do the lines as normal then finish off again with bleeding the master cylinder before topping off. my lever now only has a perfect 1/2inch of play, are now STIFF with no sponginess and finally dont pull in all the way to the bars!
You just made my day, your video is so detail oriented that I was able to flush the brake system myself. Great video!!
The only thing I’d add that we do in the shop is after you’ve bled the front a lot of the bikes will get air trapped in the horizontal parts of the master cylinder so it helps to remove the cover and tap on the side of it a bit and gently make little pulls on the lever until you stop seeing bubbles coming up out of the master cylinder into the reservoir.
man this was exactly what i needed. def not paying a shop to do this easy work.
Executive producer: ChrisFix
Already TONS of videos on TH-cam, this isn't something that hasn't been covered. So i don't understand the "finally", you just didn't look.
@@adrianmack3 dude i think you replied to the wrong comment.
@@revhappymv na na na, just let the negativity melt away here. Prevent the spread like COVID....oh wait.
@@levis3603 lol. There literally is a comment saying "finally" something right on top of your comment. I'm sure he was aiming to reply to that one. Just guiding him on the right path. The hate must go on, this is the internet after all 😋
Hey guys!
I like the tip on only punching holes in the foil. I can use that on alot of stuff. Thanks.
Nice straightforward procedure, sprinkled with a few tips of the trade that really make the difference in your daily wrenching. The aluminum seal trick did it for me.
if you pull air in from the reservoir you can close the bleeder screw on the caliper and stick a flat head screwdriver in between the rotor and pad (gently) and pry open the pads which will send fluid back up towards the reservoir pushing all the air out of that end. Then fill the reservoir and continue as normal.
POV is absolutely the move. This makes it so much easier to understand and follow. Great video! Going to do mine tomorrow
Fill syringes are a godsend - removing old fluids/adding fresh, extracting accidental oil overfill, precise application of grease/sealant, or a makeshift float level sight glass. I usually keep a few handy now.
started using a capri tools vacuum brake bleeder this year, cost like $85 bucks but is the most convenient thing ever when doing brakes. if you have one bike and do brakes every 2 years like in the manual this method is great, but if you have a few bikes and do brakes often you gotta get a vacuum bleeder. great video!
One tip, one suggestion
Suggestion, buy a pair of large syringes from a vet for like $10. You can use them a ton in bikes, but suck the fluid from the master. Then use the syringe on the bleeder, push the fluid UP to the master. Never have a bubble doing it this way
That JIS brand that was shown is Vessel. They also make other awesome screwdrivers, a $12 ball handle with bits, including JIS, and the Impacta! A JIS screwdriver and impact driver in one. Also pretty inexpensive, but it’ll pop off any stuck JIS fastener.
+1 back bleeding with a syringe was the only way I could bleed my brakes after rebuilding my caliper. I tried the traditional way but the fluid was just going past the air trapped in the caliper no matter how many times I repeated the process. Then I found out about the syringe method and it worked first try, quick and easy
Excellent bro. I watched like six or seven videos before I found yours and I finally felt confident about being able to do this. I’ve done it now I’ll comment back to let you know if it worked. Lol
I bought a five year old KLR650 with 1000 miles and now I'm realizing that there are a ton of PM items that I need to do simply because of the age of the bike. Thanks for this video and all of the other videos that show how easy most of those tasks can be.
I actually did this on my dad's Honda which had really spongy brakes and I pulled it off without any problems. Thanks for the assist man.
That was one of the best tutorials on how to bleed motorcycle brakes. Clear, concise and brilliant tips. It was that good it has given me the confidence to have a go myself. Thank you.
I just did my first brake flush on my Fz6. Was much easier than I thought! This video saved me some sweet cash!
Ari, I am impressed with the detail that your videos enlighten us with. Example- The JIS screwdriver. I didn't even know about them and I worked with Japanese co-workers @ Canon USA for 20 years! Also you mentioned the various metals in the fluid box, possible causing corrosion to watch out for.
Excellent Shop Manual video!
Love the first person POV! Super helpful, feels almost hands on.
Very true for bleed procedure. Other causes of brake sponginess can include old, worn master cylinder, bad seals on caliper, old brake lines, or even warped rotors.
You helped this girl out. I know a lot of my bike already but I never learned to do this. It might not be expensive but I love her all and I wanted to do it myself. For sure you got my subscription
I’m a big fan of using pneumatic air break fluid bleeder. It eliminates having to pump out the brake fluid using the brake lever also keeps thing clean. Just suck it out and keep filling the reservoir until you see clear fluid come out. Very easy and quick. And mine cost me 40$ so cheap to.
Very good tips. I especially the JIS mentioned. As kid I always F'd my moped carburator screw heads. It remained mystery for a very long time. Just few years ago one machine mechanic mentioned me the difference as he was teching me to work with one japanese machine. Indeed there is very slight difference in the profile which makes a huge difference. I immediately ordered myself a kit of JIS screw drivers. They're essential on even a bit older japanese bikes. But on that regard, someone told me that many latest japanese bikes don't have them anymore. I can't confirm this is as I ride older bikes, but just keep out eye for that dot. It's simple as that.
Nice video on how to bleed your brakes. I like to remove the soft black rubber diaphram cover and check for moisture build up. If I find signs of moisture, I first clean off the brake fluid side then lightly blow compressed air to blow on the non brake fluid side to remove the moisture.
i guess im not too surprised...its the same thing with a car but easier with the controls close at hand. Awesome video!
I've been changing my own brake fluid for many years but I appreciate this very clear review of the basics.
Looks simple enough. I was about to buy some needle pump that someone else ended up not using correctly so now at least I know I dont have to worry about doing it the simple way.
Hi - Thanks a million - youve made the job one heck of lot easier & for the "Biggest" tip (for me) which was that the screws on the master are JIS (i would have just got the phillips out & torn them apart) & the next important was to draw out the fluid using a syringe -Thankyou
MUCH better than you older tutorials! Very impressed with your knowledge on this. 👏
That's super. I've been bleeding my brakes not the right way for years. I've been pumping the leaver locking off the bleed nipple at the same time. It works but it's tricky. Top video. Terry
Just wanted to say that Ari is the reason I just spent my first $110.10 on RevZilla! This dude is amazing. Huge respect! (Yeah Zack is cool too...)
Haha I was just at the motorcycle store yesterday picking up fluids - oil, coolant, muckoff, etc - and was looking at the brake fluid thinking ‘I should really learn how to do that’, so great timing!
I was put off by an overly complicated and messy process on my pushy a year or two ago, but this looks way more manageable than I thought ... if only I hadn’t just had my recycling collected lol
Ditch the philips / cross heads screws and get torx or alen head screws And use antisize. If the heads are stripped or stuck tap them with a punch and use a penetrate spray. On mx bikes you can spray from the bottom of the bolt. If they still down budge use a impact screw driver. If that doesn’t work drill off the top cone head of the the screw then the lid should be removable. cover the reservoir with tape. you might be able to grab the the screws now with a locking plier or put a notch in the screw with a dremel to use a flat head screw driver. if that still doesn’t work try a Ryobi screw extractor. Last chance is to drill through entire screw with a smaller bit and use a tap to clean the threads.
Hey, I bled my brakes for the first time the very next day after watching this video . What a difference!
Excellent vid! That X in the bottle and upward loop were genius, never thought of that, add some weight to the bottle like someone else mentioned so it doesn't go flying. Mentioned everything I thought you'd leave out except making sure you get the res gasket seated before screwing it down. They can be old and dry on older bikes and better off with a new gasket.
Best Brake Bleed Tutorial I've seen. Been doing this for quite a few years but I learned a couple of tips to help me do it even better.
Great video tutorial. I followed the tips and bled my brakes in under 30 minutes.
Just did mine! Thanks for the unintimidating tutorial.
oh man, i gotta get a little hose! my VTX1800 is a bit more involved due to all the piping and all the fluid the linked brakes use, but as always, thank you Ari!
Very complete, very clear and detailed with simple tools. THANK YOU.
This video helped me after the vacuum pump method failed. Simplest method proved easiest. Thanks
i actually was having issues with my bike brakes, this comes in handy...
thanks a billion!!
Great video as always, but the tip on punching the two holes into the foil of the fresh bottle... Mind. Blown. So simple. SO useful. And not just for brake fluid.
Right? It helps keeps ya from making a mess.
I've been using a large syringe at the tip of the hose. Helps a lot, allows you to control the draining flow
Very informative vid and perfect for the amateur spannerman.I prefer the reverse method ie draining the old fluid then pushing the new fluid up through the system using a medical syringe. Cheers
I did my own bleeding after watching this! Thanks! - JP from Korea.
About ABS bikes. It's good idea to activate ABS pump after fluid change and flush it again. Just hard press rear brake while riding and it'll activate. I learned this hard way, because ABS pumps on Yamaha's CP2 engines (i.e. mt07) are not very reliable (with old fluid they get faulty and makes high pitch noise when activated), so better keep a eye on fluid change intervals.
Clear and concise. Great video! Especially the ideas about punching two holes in the foil and the high loop in the discharge hose. I'm like, why didn't I think of that?!
Your video on MCG really helped me swap out my brake fluids. This one is even better. Thanks for the good content, Ari. Keep wrenching. 🔧🔧
I'm glad you like the new POV.
@@AriH211 great video as always. you both rocks!
been watching your video on many different channel since 2014(?) never disappoint
Put a ziptie from the lever to the grip overnight as tight as you can make it. Remove it the next day and thank me. This works for rear brakes and hydraulic clutches as well.
I don’t understand. Why should I do this?
@@ardencassie5150I’ve heard that it helps bleed air bubbles. The increased pressure “pushes” the air through the lines easier than when there is no pressure, so it slowly pushes the air up into the reservoir. Don’t think you should use it as a complete alternative to manually bleeding, but can do it after the main bleeding to make sure there’s no little bubbles left along the lines.
This makes the fluid absorb the air. It'll feel nice and hard to next day but when your emote the zip tie the air will eventually separate from the fluid again and you'll be back to a soft lever.
Just btw if you recently dropped your bike and your lever is soft and spongy, it might be your rotors which could be bent. Basically bent rotors push the pads in when you move the wheel. so just check them in case.
Source: dropped bike while loading and spent 2 months trying to fix
Excellent video. I’ve done countless brake jobs on cars but was hesitant to do it on my bike. You made is easy and helped me feel confident to do the job! Also saves me $$$ from having a shop do it, and is rewarding working on your own bike. Thank you!!!
I've nearly stripped the master cylinder screws on my CBR300R before I finally picked up a legit set of JIS screwdrivers on Amazon (and new screws from the dealer)
I could say that the review informative, fun, really well paced and probably one of the best reviews of any kind I've watch for a while. But what I really want to say - kudos to RevZilla management for snatching Ari Henning for their media. What a bright, talented young man with a real spark.
Very helpful walk through for a first time Brake Line Bleeder...:)
Nice video Ari to show the new riders what to do! When I upgraded my Ninjas front and rear brake lines to Spiegler steel braided lines, I also installed "Speed Bleeders" on the calipers. Boy bleeding brakes is even easier and faster now when I do it!
Before radial master cylinders I used to zip tie my lever to the bar & turn my bars on full lock to the left overnight. It allows any stubborn bubbles up at the lever to flow back into the reservoir. Also the rubber seal is a diaphragm that extends & it's supposed to keep the space free from drawing air (& moisture) into the reservoir should you lose any fluid. It's probably obvious but if not; if the diaphragm/seal popped out, take it away from the bike (it can get splashy) & pop the folds back in place before bleeding.
Thank you for this walkthrough. I bled mine for the first time last month but I can definitely appreciate this video for the future.
Awesome! I already changed the oil and now break fluid thanks to you. Monies saved! 🤑 Chain and sprockets next.
Awesome video right to the point. I used every single one of your tips. That was long overdue on my bike the rear brake fluid looked like used motor oil. The front, not a whole lot better. New pads and fresh oil talk about stopping power. Next project fork oil.
Indian Scout rear brakes are known to be hard to bleed. It's just difficult to get all the air out. After replacing my rear brake light switch I had to bleed. I put a *Speed Bleeder" screw on and it really made the job easier for one person. I had better pedal than I had after the dealer had done a flush/bleed.
This is a GREAT video for any motorcycle brake job! Well done!
I use a soda bottle to catch the used fluid. I drilled a hole in the cap and put the tube in it; the hole should be small enough that the tube is snug. This is the equipment that I always have on hand. Then I get a new (empty) bottle and put my cap/tube on it. Once done, I put the new cap (without a hole) back on the bottle and it's ready to be disposed of. With the line snug in the drilled-out cap, the bottle can even fall over and nothing will leak. Cutting an "X" like you do allows for possible leakage.
(Before watching the video)
The presentation before you click is brilliant 😂😂❤️
Just made my day guys ❤
Appreciate the video and explanation did my brakes first time and it was much easier than I anticipated !
Excellent video reminding me that more often, simple is best. Thanks
Good to know! I'm learning how to work on my bike so these videos help a lot!! Thank you!
Excellent and easy to follow. You are my go to for anything bike related. I like that you explain exactly why you are doing things and the reason for it.
I started on the right side calliper but was confusing at first that you said start on the left. Does it really matter?
I've this for years, and you added some great small tips that will save a lot of time. Thanks!
Thanks for posting, I'll be using this tutorial to service the brakes AND Hydraulic Clutch on my 2006 Yamaha Stratoliner S...
Channel has saved my life in many ways, but I think my wallet is thanking you more!
Thanks for that, really some very practical tips - always a pleasure to learn from someone who has both the experience and the "I wonder if that would work better..." attitude - and the tips with the x'ed bottle (or bottle cap, I suppose) and the two holes in the container wil absolutely get put to good use!
Another tiny contribution which helped me at one point, getting some nasty trapped air pockets out of a system that was hopelessly bubbled up after messing up my initial attempts, and just wouldn't come out, regardless of how many containers of liquid I ran through: Putting pressure on the brake system obviously compresses the bubbles, making them smaller and in some cases easier to move. So it may help to use a velcro or zip tie to keep the handle pressed over night, and suspend the calipers in varying positions to allow such air pockets to move towards the bleeder eventually. Took me two nights, but it eventually came out - so satisfying to finally see that bubble in the hose, like a nasty dry cough eventually coming loose :)
I did this many times on my bikes and could still learn some small tricks. But isn't it also recommended to clean and check the rubber membrane on top of the reservoir? It always collects water drops over the time.
Hey, I just did this 2 days ago om my FJ-09. I do it exactly like you do including the small holes in fluid bottle. Nice tutorial!
Right on, great job DIYing. It's a pretty simple procedure.
by far the best DIY video i've ever seen on youtube thus far. thank you
Great tips on some of the commonly overlooked stuff.....order for calipers and master cyl, looping the drain tube up and small pour/air holes in the brake fluid container. I've bled brakes may times and I've learned from this video. I've used a reverse injection bleeder system several time with varying degrees of success and have reverted to this "pump and dump" that's worked every time. Stubborn part has been on the master cyl at the lever and sometime its necessary to loosen the assembly and rotate the cyl to completely remove trapped air.
Great video Ari! Love the Shop Manual. I use a large seringe with the hose to bleed and to open the reservoir cover I often make use of a impact tool -hammer type (because the screws always get stuck).
They get stuck because you over-tighten them. Counter-sunk screws locks themselves when tightened.
I am working on machines that have counter-sunk screws and the over-tightened ones makes sparks fly when you loosen them.
It's usually enough to hammer head with standard screw driver. Obviously screwdriver head should be a model that has through type head that's made for hammering. One of the first things older machine mechanic told me that if something is seriously stuck. Just keep hammering the head with light to moderate force. They usually give up, but it requires quite a bit of patience from mechanic. It can also work if you can tap female thread side, but that usually leaves marks and in most cases isn't possible at all. It's very good tip and used it much. Once my friend was struggling big time with big rusted nut. The thread part turned with seized nut. Taking block of metal to use as anvil and simply hammering sides of nut for a good while resulted nut to be taken out almost with bare fingers. I'm sure you knew about this, but hopefully it could be a good tip for many others :)
Ari you frickin rule. I'm loving these videos. You explain this stuff in a way that even I can understand. I've muddled through this stuff before but made a fricken mess. Never would have thought of the milk jug x cut. Keep doing these videos and my old fz1 will be in top shape before long.
For those who have completely empty new or old brake line. Wrap the line with rag or tower somewhere near the leaver so you don't damage it and pinch it with pliers. You making a one way valve by putting some resistance for fluid to fill the line. If u don't do this u wont manage to fill the line. U should mention this in the video too.
Awesome video, thanks. I'm doing this for the first time my bike this weekend so seeing there is litterally no different to a car a great
Best motorcycle channel on TH-cam! Thanks for all the helpful info!
Simple with attention to detail! what more can you ask for!! Cheers mate!
I love this view when you mount a camera on your forhead. Looks like some first person game. I love it..
Good video! I know you mentioned there isn't much fluid in a bike, but I still really like the vacuum pumps.. Tons of cheap hand vacuum pump kits for $20 or so, other can actually use an air compressor. Makes brake bleeding so much faster on cars and motorcycles.
Happy to inform that I change the oil of a bike thanks to this video. Good vídeo!!