I've changed a few chains over the years but today I found a great tip to help pull the chain together when trying to insert the link. Use a cable tie threaded around the open ends.. zip it up and just slide in the link. It also helps quickly to identify the link you're working on. Simple but effective and really helped. Hope it helps you too. 😊
so much free knowledge your handing out thank you from all of us i just did this a few weeks ago with 0 info how to do it you just gave away so much to other first timers keep killing it man
The grease is not only for the X-rings but should be squirted into each side of chain ends when you out the master link in. Your master link will last way longer with grease actually inside. The X-rings are to keep the grease inside there.
If you’re talking about the hole that the links go into. There’s grease in there already. The greasing exposed parts, sure. But I like to use PJ1 to keep rust off the surface of my chain.
@@adobomoto got ya. Didn’t see the grease already in there. The ek 3d chains are dry and u have to add yourself on the ends. But not if u cut it down to length
Good video, it will be helpful to a lot of riders. I've always cleaned my chains with either WD40, or kerosene as you mentioned, lately I've switched to Bel-Ray lube/cleaner. I have never heard about brake cleaner damaging o-rings, I was told that the brake cleaner was thin enough to get past the o-rings and break down the lube trapped behind them. Everybody is an expert right!
I would like to point out that nyloned locking nuts don't need Loctite, and, specifically, any torqued bolt or nut, the torque, the stretching of that system, is doing the thread locking for you, but more importantly, the Loctite acts like a lubricant or anti-seize before it dries and sets up, meaning your torque readings are completely inaccurate and you likely tightening well above the measurement you see on the torque wrench. To quote Kevin Cameron "Answer: The Loctite people recommend reducing applied torque by 20 percent from dry values when using their liquid thread-locking compounds on threaded fasteners. You can find tables of wet-vs.-dry fastener torques, but judging from the values given, a fair estimate would be a 25 percent reduction in torque when tightening an oiled or anti-seize-treated fastener." This is a nice video. I use a wood post chunk 4"x4"x16" cut diagonally as a wedge for helping keep the tire up at the right height to get the axle back in, since my spacers like to wander and fall out the moment they see I have no free hands.
Folks, DO NOT put your transmission in gear to remove the front sprocket bolt, there is a good chance you will bend the shift forks especially if you use an air gun to do the job. Instead, leave the bike in neutral and get a 2x4 or 1” dowel rod, stick it through the wheel spokes and roll the wheel froward until it stops, hold it there and break the front sprocket bolt/nut loose. Reverse this procedure for install.
Thanks for sharing how it's done.. never seen anyone actually change a chain and sprockets. Loving this channel definitely my favourite then second is matt Armstrong.. bikes then cars always.. 🤙 loving the videos form the 🇬🇧
Aren't you supposed to adjust the chain tensioners like move them back because after a while of riding with that chain it's gonna stretch and typically you know when to change out your chain when it's all the way pushed back
I would say that chain stretch is one indication a chain needs changing, but the "Daylight" test means your sprocket needs changing, which should mean to get a new chain as well. For me, the chain noise and chain links that don't move freely is my clue to budget for a chain. If your chain is ----------- thats a good thing. When your chain is --^----^--- them links (the "o" rings) are in pain.
@@adobomoto yea I was stationed in Spokane I wanted to link up but I got orders to another state lol your content filled the void of not being able to ride in those Washington state winters for sure. Keep it up love to see your channel grow.
"As loose as ur grandma's tiddies" "deez nuts" "u morons" Boy I watch u on shorts its chill, somehow I found interests in bikes and here i am in your long form content. And i realised what monster you are lol. Epic content. @adobomoto
50nm / 37ft lbs for the front and rear sprocket nuts. Not sure about the tuono rear axle nut if you have cast or forged wheels. Don’t over tighten that rear axle nut - bearing failure.
I'm new to bikes but been a mechanics on hgv and rail for years thanks for this video. 1 question is it typical to not have to adjust the tension after a chain swap? Genuinely asking coz my chain needs to be changed bad and I wanna give it a shot
You speak plainly and it’s appreciated. I just bought the 2023 Fireblade (1000 miles so far), and I want to change the sprockets from 16t/43t to 15t/44t. Can I keep the practically new stock chain and just change sprockets, without separating the chain? All are a 525 pitch. I’ve only tried that on dirt bikes. Sorry if this a dumb question. I’m freakin 52. I should get a mulligan once in a while.
Does the chain breaker also used to install the new o rings/link? Or is that a different tool. Just picked the one up from harbor freight but I’m not sure if it also is used to rivet the new link
Here's a tip from a random dingdong... After messing with your final drive ratio especially if you change your sprocket ratios, (I dropped one one tooth up front and added two in the back). Go to your aprc settings and follow the instructions (it's on page 107 for the Tuono.) All you do is select calibration ride straight ahead at 25mph in 2nd gear. The screen will prompt you to "hold speed". If done correctly the next prompt will be "calibration done Key off wait 60 seconds". PS Don't turn the key off until you safely stop the bike first, Adobo! 🤣
@Adobo Moto Also aprc monitors traction not only speedometer values. By correcting/calibrating/updating the bike allows it to keep your rear end behind you which is where you want it.
It was worth mentioning a couple things at the start that your chain may have a split link master link. And also you said when you change chain you go ahead and change the sprokets like it wasnt a rule never new chaon on old sprokets or vice versa. Alway change as a set. I would also of left the O rings in the brake cleaner for several month vs minutes to get a true outcome or consult manufacturers recommendations that said thir is a rubber O ring around a brake caliper piston. Also why remove the wax that stops the chain rusting? Dont you want it to not rust?
Using brake clean on a chain won't damage anything. Placing seals in brake clean will. It won't be a overnight process takes a while for the seals to swell not melt!
I was demonstrating my point about using brake cleaner to clean a chain. It’s 1000 percent ok to do so. I stopped using kerosene when I realized brake calipers have seals as well. Kerosene smells like crap and makes a mess.
an even easier way of installing the master link is begin with the chain halfway on the rear sprocket and bring the end around to meet it this way the sprocket teeth help hold the chain exactly where you need to slip on the master link
Lmao people think brake cleaner disintegrates o-rings... It's not brake cleaner doing that, it's the WD-40 these idiots are using to clean their shit. Nice job busting that myth Adobo
Quick question. Is it necessary to remap the ecu after changing to 16-45T from 15-45T since the bike is slower to reach the top speed. Mine is a standard CBR150R. Won't hurt anything to remap right? Thanks.
@@buzz6362 if you let the throttle go to use the front brake, you're just engine braking. not pressing the brake "that hard" likely won't affect much tbh because you'll already have shifted the weight towards the front by letting go to the throttle without disengaging the clutch.
Just a thought, you should really always grind the rivet head of the chain you're breaking flat before using a chain breaker, most people use manual ones not power tools so it's much easier to grind the face flat with a angle grinder & that way its much easier & your chain breaker will last longer
Great video dude, I have a question for you. For my Sur Ron do you recommend X ring or O ring 420 chain, and any particular one? I’m tired of all the noise the my non- o ring chain makes 😆, I want something quiet but also efficient
Using a torque wrench to tighten it to the appropriate tightness, also known as the "torque value." It's different for everything, so check your manuals
Brake cleaner will deteriorate the rubber over time. I have a very precision airbrush with an o-ring the size of an ants asshole, and the acetone over time made it unusable. .... $30+ for that damn o-ring. Great video. Ready to do my chain now
😂😂 i used to. There’s too much drama in the pnw groups lol. I like to clown around, i need people that match my energy, not a bunch of depressed mfers 🤣🤣🤣
@@adobomoto definitely not 30k but it was completely toast at 13k. 30+ X rings torn apart, stiff links all over, I got 20k out of my EK ThreeD GP and it still had usable life when I replaced it. The ERV7 started shredding X rings at 3000 miles. Not a good look in my book
Adobo straight going from documentary mode to calling us morons you love to see it
😂😂
HAHAHA I had this exact thought. I call this "Art"
I subbed right away lol
I've changed a few chains over the years but today I found a great tip to help pull the chain together when trying to insert the link. Use a cable tie threaded around the open ends.. zip it up and just slide in the link. It also helps quickly to identify the link you're working on. Simple but effective and really helped. Hope it helps you too. 😊
Thanks will try
“One of the most neglected areas of a motorcycle…. is the rider.” 😔
😔
True story! 👍
🤣🤣🤣🤣😂😂
Spring is coming, time for a new generation of squids as well!
I'm 13 and this is deep 😩
so much free knowledge your handing out thank you from all of us i just did this a few weeks ago with 0 info how to do it you just gave away so much to other first timers keep killing it man
The grease is not only for the X-rings but should be squirted into each side of chain ends when you out the master link in. Your master link will last way longer with grease actually inside. The X-rings are to keep the grease inside there.
If you’re talking about the hole that the links go into. There’s grease in there already. The greasing exposed parts, sure. But I like to use PJ1 to keep rust off the surface of my chain.
@@adobomoto got ya. Didn’t see the grease already in there. The ek 3d chains are dry and u have to add yourself on the ends. But not if u cut it down to length
Good video, it will be helpful to a lot of riders. I've always cleaned my chains with either WD40, or kerosene as you mentioned, lately I've switched to Bel-Ray lube/cleaner. I have never heard about brake cleaner damaging o-rings, I was told that the brake cleaner was thin enough to get past the o-rings and break down the lube trapped behind them. Everybody is an expert right!
I would like to point out that nyloned locking nuts don't need Loctite, and, specifically, any torqued bolt or nut, the torque, the stretching of that system, is doing the thread locking for you, but more importantly, the Loctite acts like a lubricant or anti-seize before it dries and sets up, meaning your torque readings are completely inaccurate and you likely tightening well above the measurement you see on the torque wrench.
To quote Kevin Cameron "Answer: The Loctite people recommend reducing applied torque by 20 percent from dry values when using their liquid thread-locking compounds on threaded fasteners. You can find tables of wet-vs.-dry fastener torques, but judging from the values given, a fair estimate would be a 25 percent reduction in torque when tightening an oiled or anti-seize-treated fastener."
This is a nice video.
I use a wood post chunk 4"x4"x16" cut diagonally as a wedge for helping keep the tire up at the right height to get the axle back in, since my spacers like to wander and fall out the moment they see I have no free hands.
Screenshotted this, thank you, & thank you for the wood chunk dimensions!
At last! someone who actually shows how its done, properly :P
Niceone guys!
Folks, DO NOT put your transmission in gear to remove the front sprocket bolt, there is a good chance you will bend the shift forks especially if you use an air gun to do the job.
Instead, leave the bike in neutral and get a 2x4 or 1” dowel rod, stick it through the wheel spokes and roll the wheel froward until it stops, hold it there and break the front sprocket bolt/nut loose. Reverse this procedure for install.
This tip is what I was looking for from this video as I thought that torque against the transmission doesn't feel right
what if you have a bike with spoked/tubed rims?
I agree!💪🍀👋🏻
Put it up agains a wall or something, so that its” stuck”
Thanks for sharing how it's done.. never seen anyone actually change a chain and sprockets. Loving this channel definitely my favourite then second is matt Armstrong.. bikes then cars always..
🤙 loving the videos form the 🇬🇧
Thanks dude
I'm doing my sprockets rn, I was watching a video to just double check and then thus came on, I love it😂
Aren't you supposed to adjust the chain tensioners like move them back because after a while of riding with that chain it's gonna stretch and typically you know when to change out your chain when it's all the way pushed back
I agree he didn't show what could be the most important part.
I would say that chain stretch is one indication a chain needs changing, but the "Daylight" test means your sprocket needs changing, which should mean to get a new chain as well.
For me, the chain noise and chain links that don't move freely is my clue to budget for a chain.
If your chain is ----------- thats a good thing. When your chain is --^----^--- them links (the "o" rings) are in pain.
I started watching back when you had the r1 still watching live the content keep it up !
Damn. You a og og
@@adobomoto yea I was stationed in Spokane I wanted to link up but I got orders to another state lol your content filled the void of not being able to ride in those Washington state winters for sure. Keep it up love to see your channel grow.
I don’t know how to explain it, but I enjoy how much this man insults me
It’s light and fun. People take themselves to seriously
"As loose as ur grandma's tiddies" "deez nuts" "u morons"
Boy I watch u on shorts its chill, somehow I found interests in bikes and here i am in your long form content. And i realised what monster you are lol. Epic content. @adobomoto
Just in time! I was just about to do the 520 swap on my Tuono. Nice vid like always!
50nm / 37ft lbs for the front and rear sprocket nuts. Not sure about the tuono rear axle nut if you have cast or forged wheels. Don’t over tighten that rear axle nut - bearing failure.
@@adobomoto Looks like someone is tryna go through your channel scamming folks,🤣😂🤣😂. Look at the reply on my message from Adobomoto1.
Page 107 of your owners manual when you are done, bro...
Finally my little munchkin made another info video
😂
Yo Adobo can you link the tools you are using for the chain install? Thanks bro
Damn bro we in sync, just aligned and lubed my bikes rear wheel and chain today.
I'm new to bikes but been a mechanics on hgv and rail for years thanks for this video. 1 question is it typical to not have to adjust the tension after a chain swap? Genuinely asking coz my chain needs to be changed bad and I wanna give it a shot
So glad I have single sided swing arm now lol, I have ptsd watching you get the axle back in =D. Great video.
I have a single sided swingarm on the other bike
Adobo Moto Is The Best🎉🎉
Straight forward and clear tutorial
Lol wow my dude I'm so happy u started it so dramatically then u just hit us with the reality of ur channel lol! Love u
Bout to change my chain and sprockets. It might not even need it but im a perfectionist and wont rest unil I feel safe😂❤
Although in a gsxr guy for life (currently own a z900 though) I love your videos
Adding humor to how to's = to adobomoto DING DONGS..
Haha yup
I agree change both at the same time wore sprockets can make a brand new chain wear faster or vice versa great video tho!
Super tutorial that will help me to change the chain and sprockets on me Tuono next week! What brands did you change too there?
You speak plainly and it’s appreciated. I just bought the 2023 Fireblade (1000 miles so far), and I want to change the sprockets from 16t/43t to 15t/44t. Can I keep the practically new stock chain and just change sprockets, without separating the chain? All are a 525 pitch. I’ve only tried that on dirt bikes. Sorry if this a dumb question. I’m freakin 52. I should get a mulligan once in a while.
Yeah honestly the silver and the gold look so nice now that their new. And the gold matches bc it's a sexy ass bike!
Hey pogi I have zx6r 636 2022 and planning dynojet and sprocket change. Was hoping you have a video about sprocket proformance explained
It’s just weight savings bro. Buy name brand when u do
It’s just weight savings bro. Buy name brand when u do
Does the chain breaker also used to install the new o rings/link? Or is that a different tool. Just picked the one up from harbor freight but I’m not sure if it also is used to rivet the new link
Here's a tip from a random dingdong...
After messing with your final drive ratio especially if you change your sprocket ratios, (I dropped one one tooth up front and added two in the back).
Go to your aprc settings and follow the instructions (it's on page 107 for the Tuono.)
All you do is select calibration ride straight ahead at 25mph in 2nd gear.
The screen will prompt you to "hold speed". If done correctly the next prompt will be "calibration done Key off wait 60 seconds".
PS Don't turn the key off until you safely stop the bike first, Adobo! 🤣
nice. cool that you can do that fine tune from the aprc itself. I remember before we had actual speed sensors we'd have to get a speedo healer.
@@adobomoto True story brother, personally I love the technology.
Keeps dingdongs like me rubber-side up, 😆
@Adobo Moto Also aprc monitors traction not only speedometer values. By correcting/calibrating/updating the bike allows it to keep your rear end behind you which is where you want it.
Adobo is right brake cleaner does not hurt or dry out the orings. Auto brake systems have a lot of rubber seals and parts.
My tuono is due for a chain n sprocket change. What brand did u go with?
It was worth mentioning a couple things at the start that your chain may have a split link master link. And also you said when you change chain you go ahead and change the sprokets like it wasnt a rule never new chaon on old sprokets or vice versa. Alway change as a set. I would also of left the O rings in the brake cleaner for several month vs minutes to get a true outcome or consult manufacturers recommendations that said thir is a rubber O ring around a brake caliper piston. Also why remove the wax that stops the chain rusting? Dont you want it to not rust?
My favourite moto content creator. Love the content keep it up bro💯
Using brake clean on a chain won't damage anything. Placing seals in brake clean will. It won't be a overnight process takes a while for the seals to swell not melt!
I was demonstrating my point about using brake cleaner to clean a chain. It’s 1000 percent ok to do so. I stopped using kerosene when I realized brake calipers have seals as well. Kerosene smells like crap and makes a mess.
@@adobomoto I agree that using it on a chain it won’t damage anything.
Totally in love with that intro :D
Thank you. I wanna change my sprocket and chain and I needed this 🙌. Although I got a kawasaki ninja haha
Seems the front sprocket had sort of a bushing? Any drawbacks to the lighter rear and front sprockets, like weaker material?
Does this guy answer questions? I just asked one but it looks like he never replied to yours.
Dude this intro made me subscribe 😂
an even easier way of installing the master link is begin with the chain halfway on the rear sprocket and bring the end around to meet it this way the sprocket teeth help hold the chain exactly where you need to slip on the master link
bro your guides are super helpful thanks so much!!
Lmao people think brake cleaner disintegrates o-rings... It's not brake cleaner doing that, it's the WD-40 these idiots are using to clean their shit. Nice job busting that myth Adobo
Hi what should I put on my Yamaha tdr 125.. it's got a 57t sprocket.. 520 chain or 428 ?
Hell Ya that gold looks I only run a gold D.I.Ds🤘🏾
Less rust!
How can i get the engine sprocket to torque down without moving? It's still spinning the wrong direction even With the bike in gear
Put a cotton rag between the chain and sprocket.
Also do you have just adobomoto sticker word only for low profile
Not right now bro
Quick question. Is it necessary to remap the ecu after changing to 16-45T from 15-45T since the bike is slower to reach the top speed. Mine is a standard CBR150R. Won't hurt anything to remap right? Thanks.
Yo adobo what happened if you press the brake without pulling the clutch first
Go to the track, we use engine braking and a fist full of front brake all the time to push the front end into the ground
@@adobomoto not pressing brakes thet hard
@@buzz6362 if you let the throttle go to use the front brake, you're just engine braking. not pressing the brake "that hard" likely won't affect much tbh because you'll already have shifted the weight towards the front by letting go to the throttle without disengaging the clutch.
I’m currently in process of doing this also! Thanks for tip on break cleaner 😂
I’ve been wanting to demo this. These morons know more than me always. Honda’s chain lube bottle also tells you to use brake cleaner lmfao
Does this video apply to like all bikes that need a new chain and sprocket
I'm guessing too go from 530 chain to 520 chain the sprockets are different to match the pitch?
Why the F does my cm400 take a 530 chain stock?
"Torque specs of deez nuts" 😂
How nobody got it but me... 😂
Just a thought, you should really always grind the rivet head of the chain you're breaking flat before using a chain breaker, most people use manual ones not power tools so it's much easier to grind the face flat with a angle grinder & that way its much easier & your chain breaker will last longer
Nice content man
Love these how to videos bro 👍🏽
Love your vids bro! Regards from Philippines! Hope more vids to come!
i bought a zx6r thats geared for wheelies but i want it back to stock. will buying a oem sprocket and chain do the trick???
Yep!
Is ur jacket for riding? If so what is it? 👀
Love the safety shoes.
Good stuff, good stuff. How many miles did you have on the original stuff?
Love the videos man!
Great video. Ty for your hard work.
How do you hold up the bike when you take off the rear wheel.
lol lock-tite on Nylock nuts. Edit: brake clean is straight from heaven.
How many links should I add if I go up 2T on the rear?
Its pretty commendable that you are calling out idiots for putting up fake infos without any doubt of mind.
Anyone who takes the internet too seriously has no life
Great video dude, I have a question for you. For my Sur Ron do you recommend X ring or O ring 420 chain, and any particular one? I’m tired of all the noise the my non- o ring chain makes 😆, I want something quiet but also efficient
Stick with Non o ring man. The noise isn’t going to change much. I run both oem with o ring and non o ring. I can’t tell the difference
how has a 520 held up? forums alight with folk saying not to
Po this is how we roll my boy
Bro how many miles did you do before you replaced the chain?
how do you torque front sprocket without it spinning or damaging trans
He put in gear.
if you're not changing sprockets, pin the new chain to the old chain while removing so that the new chain can be placed easily
I Always replace sprockets if im swapping the chain, unless it’s to try different sizing
How did you put the front sprocket on
What grease dyou use for the rear spindle
Where did you buy that chain tool?
Will this set up work for a fz07?
Make sure you align your push pin when breaking the chain. Otherwise, you are going to have a bad day. No mariachis, no tequila.
What is torquing the rear sprocket. Pls explain
Using a torque wrench to tighten it to the appropriate tightness, also known as the "torque value."
It's different for everything, so check your manuals
Gr8 vid. Ride safe, god bless u.
Motorcycle lift bro would be a good investment for your growing mc vlogs
Brake cleaner will deteriorate the rubber over time. I have a very precision airbrush with an o-ring the size of an ants asshole, and the acetone over time made it unusable. .... $30+ for that damn o-ring. Great video. Ready to do my chain now
And i thought this video was different 😂
Never 😂
why the switch from 525 to 520? weight? just curious. thanks
Yup, unsprung weight. That is all lol
Need some critical advice how can I reach out to you?
Twt? I thought you didn’t ride with pnw riders?;)
😂😂 i used to. There’s too much drama in the pnw groups lol. I like to clown around, i need people that match my energy, not a bunch of depressed mfers 🤣🤣🤣
Good vid but be careful using an impact to press a new link!
Did you use aluminum sprockets?
Nope. Both steel
@@adobomoto im changing chain and sprocket soon
That ERV7 chain is nice but I only got 13k miles out of mine on my CBR1k
That’s a lot lol. You trying to get 30k out of a chain?
@@adobomoto definitely not 30k but it was completely toast at 13k. 30+ X rings torn apart, stiff links all over, I got 20k out of my EK ThreeD GP and it still had usable life when I replaced it. The ERV7 started shredding X rings at 3000 miles. Not a good look in my book
"and when you guys weren't looking I added a little brake cleaner"
so much fun building
what cleaner r u using?
Break cleaner
nice video man
What brand chain and sprockets?
brake cleaner smells better 💀
I think you got your nm to ft lb conversion wrong
Unless I misheard you? Sounds like you say 15nm
50nm = 36.878 lb ft. Google it
@@adobomoto yeah i thought you said 15nm
Sit down and use your foot to hold the rear wheel up when putting the axel back in
Saved 1.8 lbs or 0.82KG and thats rotationsal weight that equals to 15 lbs or 6.8 kg saved on static weight