Very impressive! I hadn't guessed that you'd weld on those louvered panels! I've seen people plate over the plastic louvered panel on the *inside* of the boot, directly behind the lock - but that can't work because the water runs down the gaps created where there are strengthening ribs (not sure what they're called) in that inner panel, not through the plastic vent. I think your fix is a first! I'm one of the C1OC members to have written more on the subject of leaks than probably anyone else and I like to keep up-to-date with all of the various attempts to fix them!
I’ve never seen this approach before, so I figured that I’d give it a try and be the first. I put a sheet of plastic over the top with double sided gorilla tape (the same stuff I used to seal my door card membranes) and it’s worked an absolute treat. I was tempted to weld a flat plate in them and get rid completely, but I know that the vents are there to equalize the air pressure when closing the boot hatch.
@@DABDIY Glad to hear that it's worked a treat! I think the vents have secondary function in letting out the air drawn in via the blower / open windows. I suspect even a watertight car would mist up more if they were blocked off completely.
Agreed, there’s a million and one water ingress points on these cars. The welded vents have worked just fine, but I’ve had other leaks since... they’ve been fixed though. I ended up taking the bumper off again and silicone’d pretty much everything that wasn’t plate steel 🤣 That’ll be documented in a follow up video to this one. I go through everything that I did to seal it up. I still have a slight weep, it’s as good as it’s gonna get I guess 🤷🏼♂️
The door seals (weatherstrips) have a bead of permanently-soft putty / mastic in the channel which attaches them to the body. Nevertheless, thanks to low budget design, the bodywork flanges are not folded away from the body and water can still find it's way around the putty. I've had two C1s and have performed almost every known "fix" at least once on each car. It's got to the point where there's now an ancient K11 Micra on the drive and the C1 is a garage queen which may or may not leak but I can't bear the misery of attempting yet more fixes - replacing parts for new off the shelf ones simply doesn't last and you have to resort to sealants and similar measures. I must be mad as I now use the C1 for high days and holidays, only when it's dry mind you!
Of course the Louvre vent offer more than just closing the back door, as well as the main doors you'll have a hard time getting any heating without a path for air exit
The main reason I went with a vent rather than a steel plate is to allow air to escape when closing the boot. I hadn’t really considered allowing heating air to escape, I guess it’s a happy accidental bi-product of the vents 😁
Mine leaks from the top corner of the headlining (near the boot hinge where that twisty cable comes through). Could that be coming from the high brake light?
Wow another great video, well thought out and presented brilliant you make it seem so easy to do has I am sure it won't be when I actually try to do it 😀
It really is as simple as it looks. They’re very easy to work on because they’re so basic. You don’t have to weld up the rear vents though, you can just silicone them up.
They’re a little brighter I guess. The reason why I took the opportunity to install some LED bulbs is because I didn’t want to have to take the lights off again and disturb the silicone sealant that I’d installed. As LEDs generally last a little longer than normal bulbs, I put some LEDs in.
I was far more tempted to do that than I’m willing to admit... they let the air escape when you close the boot though, I should probably keep at least a little bit of a vent for that.
@@DABDIY ha ha yeh the amount of water the seals let in I'm sure the air pressure would of been fine 🤣🤣I like your idea I'd be filling the void behind with foam to help with a bit of sound deadening
That’s right, it can. It’s more the catch behind it really. I did this off camera, but I removed it, cleaned the area, put silicone down and re-fitted it. Seems to have worked.
Hi there thinking of doing the boot vents like you, but have not got the chance of having the vents welded, do you think i could use tiger seal thank you just not sure if tiger seal would make a good bond metal to metal as i have never used tiger seal before thanks for your help.
after watching this kind of nightmare, would you recommend another small frugal city car instead of this one? Suzuki Alto maybe? I don't have a garage. Currently I own a Seat Leon 2005 and I park it on the street for 5 years now. Never got a drop of water inside the car. I would like the same but in a small frugal city car. Thank you
Once these leaks have been resolved, these are fantastic little cars. I once had an Alto as a company car and yes it was small and economical, but I’d certainly not want to be in an accident in one. I actually gave that company car back, I didn’t feel comfortable in it.
I ran a bead of silicone on the sponge gasket on the light cluster and on the corresponding mating surface of the car while both sides were still wet. That allows both sides to join and dry together, forming a water tight seal.
Very impressive! I hadn't guessed that you'd weld on those louvered panels! I've seen people plate over the plastic louvered panel on the *inside* of the boot, directly behind the lock - but that can't work because the water runs down the gaps created where there are strengthening ribs (not sure what they're called) in that inner panel, not through the plastic vent. I think your fix is a first!
I'm one of the C1OC members to have written more on the subject of leaks than probably anyone else and I like to keep up-to-date with all of the various attempts to fix them!
I’ve never seen this approach before, so I figured that I’d give it a try and be the first. I put a sheet of plastic over the top with double sided gorilla tape (the same stuff I used to seal my door card membranes) and it’s worked an absolute treat. I was tempted to weld a flat plate in them and get rid completely, but I know that the vents are there to equalize the air pressure when closing the boot hatch.
@@DABDIY Glad to hear that it's worked a treat! I think the vents have secondary function in letting out the air drawn in via the blower / open windows. I suspect even a watertight car would mist up more if they were blocked off completely.
Agreed, there’s a million and one water ingress points on these cars. The welded vents have worked just fine, but I’ve had other leaks since... they’ve been fixed though. I ended up taking the bumper off again and silicone’d pretty much everything that wasn’t plate steel 🤣
That’ll be documented in a follow up video to this one. I go through everything that I did to seal it up. I still have a slight weep, it’s as good as it’s gonna get I guess 🤷🏼♂️
The door seals (weatherstrips) have a bead of permanently-soft putty / mastic in the channel which attaches them to the body. Nevertheless, thanks to low budget design, the bodywork flanges are not folded away from the body and water can still find it's way around the putty. I've had two C1s and have performed almost every known "fix" at least once on each car.
It's got to the point where there's now an ancient K11 Micra on the drive and the C1 is a garage queen which may or may not leak but I can't bear the misery of attempting yet more fixes - replacing parts for new off the shelf ones simply doesn't last and you have to resort to sealants and similar measures. I must be mad as I now use the C1 for high days and holidays, only when it's dry mind you!
I know what you mean. I use my C1 for pottering around town in. My Volvo XC60 is the motorway mile eater for work.
I absolutely love this guy. I would swear but TH-cam blocks it
Of course the Louvre vent offer more than just closing the back door, as well as the main doors you'll have a hard time getting any heating without a path for air exit
The main reason I went with a vent rather than a steel plate is to allow air to escape when closing the boot. I hadn’t really considered allowing heating air to escape, I guess it’s a happy accidental bi-product of the vents 😁
Really useful video mate, thank you very much! I've found a leak in the boot and this video helped me find the source!
I’m so glad that it helped you! Thanks for your kind feedback 😁
Mine leaks from the top corner of the headlining (near the boot hinge where that twisty cable comes through). Could that be coming from the high brake light?
Sure sounds like it to me 👍🏻
@@DABDIY I'm wondering how the water finds its way into that top corner though. Would have thought it'd run past & downwards.
I’ve seen it before, it happens a lot. The surface tension keeps it clinging to the surface of the metal and runs down I wards the head lining.
Wow another great video, well thought out and presented brilliant you make it seem so easy to do has I am sure it won't be when I actually try to do it 😀
It really is as simple as it looks. They’re very easy to work on because they’re so basic. You don’t have to weld up the rear vents though, you can just silicone them up.
Is the LED bulb conversion better than standard? Are they red LEDs?
They’re a little brighter I guess. The reason why I took the opportunity to install some LED bulbs is because I didn’t want to have to take the lights off again and disturb the silicone sealant that I’d installed. As LEDs generally last a little longer than normal bulbs, I put some LEDs in.
They’re clear LED bulbs. In hindsight, I should have gone with red ones. They’ll do for now 🤷🏼♂️
Nicely done with the louver vents I really need to get round to doing mine although my button is leaking in aswell 😂😂
I did tell you on Facebook that I sealed my rear bulkhead in a novel way 🤣
@@DABDIY you did that is brilliant mate I would of just welded a plate in lmao
I was far more tempted to do that than I’m willing to admit... they let the air escape when you close the boot though, I should probably keep at least a little bit of a vent for that.
@@DABDIY ha ha yeh the amount of water the seals let in I'm sure the air pressure would of been fine 🤣🤣I like your idea I'd be filling the void behind with foam to help with a bit of sound deadening
I’ve got a plan for sound deadening. Watch this space 😉
Perfect video👍
I've been told that the button you push to open the tailgate, can be taking in water?🤔
That’s right, it can. It’s more the catch behind it really. I did this off camera, but I removed it, cleaned the area, put silicone down and re-fitted it. Seems to have worked.
Thank you so much💯👌
For people that don't have access to a welder could you not just use the gasket sealant and just Tek screw it in place?
Sure you could! A lot of people simply silicone around it, but your way sounds better.
Hi there thinking of doing the boot vents like you, but have not got the chance of having the vents welded, do you think i could use tiger seal thank you just not sure if tiger seal would make a good bond metal to metal as i have never used tiger seal before thanks for your help.
Tiger seal would work fine. I’ve used clear RTV and bathroom silicone before and they’ve all worked just fine.
@@DABDIY Great thanks ever so much for you help.
Glad I could help 👍🏻
after watching this kind of nightmare, would you recommend another small frugal city car instead of this one? Suzuki Alto maybe? I don't have a garage. Currently I own a Seat Leon 2005 and I park it on the street for 5 years now. Never got a drop of water inside the car. I would like the same but in a small frugal city car. Thank you
Once these leaks have been resolved, these are fantastic little cars. I once had an Alto as a company car and yes it was small and economical, but I’d certainly not want to be in an accident in one. I actually gave that company car back, I didn’t feel comfortable in it.
@@DABDIY do you mean Suzuki Alto 1st or 2nd generation?
I’m not sure on which generation it was specifically, all I know is that it was a 2008 plate.
when doing the lights, did you leave the silicone to dry before reinstalling it the light on the car ? My aygo seems to have a similar issue.
I ran a bead of silicone on the sponge gasket on the light cluster and on the corresponding mating surface of the car while both sides were still wet. That allows both sides to join and dry together, forming a water tight seal.
Thanks good info 👍