Very helpful video thanks. I have same problem with Civic display intermittently going off. The problem is most likely due to dry solder joints - a common problem with old electronics - where they crack and make poor connection over time. The fix is to resolder the joints. You probably don't have to do all of them - typically it will be the ones where component wires go through the board e.g. the main connector with its many pins, as well as the 3-pin 5V regulator (TLE4274V50) and the PNP transistor A1741. The difficulty for me was how to access the other side of the pcb in order to resolder the joints, in particular removing the lcd module which sits atop the othere dials for rev counter, fuel , temp etc. After bending, pulling and poking the thing for a while a realized that you remove it by inserting a small flatblade screwdriver into where black plastic of the module fits into the white plastic of the instrument cluster, underneath the lcd module at the bottom. Put a screwdriver between white and black to prize the black plastic away slightly at the two sides. This releases the unit. Be sure to remove the 4-pin plug and the flat ribbon cable first though! The flat ribbon cable is released by pulling the two tabs up on the pcb receptacle.
This is a common problem and it doesn't happen just on the instrument cluster, but on the speed and climate control display as well. Problem is caused by dry solder joints on the PCB. So simply swapping out the instrument cluster for another one is only a temporary fix as there are 2 voltage regulators that get hot and because of heat cycles the solder on the PCB cracks. That dim potentiometer is mounted on the PCB, that's why pressing it causes the backlight to come back temporarily. The potentiometer is NOT the actual problem and it does not need to be repalced. What needs to be done is disassemble the instrument cluster (the 3 needles will have to be removed for that - mark the zero position with a pencil), remove the PCB and re-do the two TO-220 packages solder joints. Additionally, the main connector should also be re-soldered with fresh solder and flux. You will also find cracked plastic parts in the middle section because of the heat from the LEDs which will need some attention and glue before re-assembying. But fixing the instrument cluster is the only long-term solution, unless you replace it with a brand new one of course.
@@VynZography Mine works smooth, would check the motors themselves to not have any of that fine white disintegrated plastic inside as from mine there were a lot of small plastic pieces that fell off. However getting them to indicate accurately is a bit tricky, I had to remove and re-install them a couple of times until I got it right.
I have just got the very same issue as you. I bought a speedometer that has been promised from an i-vtech however when I installed it it gave the same problem with the upper screen so I have just returned it to the sender.
Having a similar issue with mine. So, when I press the light button in quite hard, it’s all lit up perfectly fine, soon as I remove the pressure it turns off… Squeeze the button in a little more, it’s on.. So it definitely feels like the button is causing the connection issue.. I feel like a tiny piece of plastic between the button and whatever it is contacting would work, but I don’t want to remove my needles. Can you remove the button without interfering with the needles?
@@renderpeach some people in the comments have suggested a way to resolder the power transistors from the back without taking out the needles. I have not tried it myself. I know if you take the needles out they will never go back in correctly.
Great video man!! I have a little problem but in my center display...going darker on hot weather and Im thinking buying a new cluster...just One question...when you buy a new One the km's need to BE changed?? Or do they memorized in car ecu?
Hey. I l live in London but I don’t have the facilities to do this job for people. I recommend getting a replacement cluster off eBay instead of trying to repair it. Just make sure you get the right one for your car and also remember that the new cluster will have the mileage of the car it came from 👍
@@Tintoycar I don’t think it’s possible to change just the lights but you can open it up and have a go if you want otherwise you have to change the entire switch assembly.
I have got same issue. but when I contacted my mechanic he told me that you can't change that thing without properly programming it before putting in. what should I do ??
I have the same problem with my Civic , going to give this a try. Only thing I just want to make sure is does the mileage automatically get programmed into the new dash as the garage that sells the Spares state that you will need to get the mileage programmed in?? Please advise
@@VynZography Ah thanks, I ended up reading the other comments and found out about the soldering trick. Will look into that instead, and if I cock it up, then I'll buy a replacement! Cheers for the informative video.
@@VynZography in my case it seems that one backlight LED has failed, leaving some dark area on the temperature meter... but accessing the LEDs, which are SMD, is quite a challenge because you will have to dismantle the instrument needles as well
You didn't need to replace the whole cluster. Happened to me. You can open the cluster up and you will see a little potentiometer where the switch for cluster light is. It is hold by two pins.wipe the two pins with isopropil and resolder those two pins.And thats it. It took 20min.
Great video. I hope to be lucky to do not need it , becasue it means my dashboard is also broken. I save this video just in case. By the way, your mobile holder is on the CD entry, is your CD broken? Regards, from Spain.
Hi. No the CD player works fine but I hardly use any CDs and this is the best position for a mobile phone. I hate vent mounts because the phone then blocks the vent which is very silly. This is the one I have amzn.to/35NpLjb
Hi thanks for pointing that out. I have been incorrectly telling everyone that the mileage remains the same when you change the cluster. I have since put back the original cluster so not a problem now but I'd like to know how to fix that in the future.
I have a problem with my cruise control not working. Green light works but cruise not setting. Test all switches on the clutch. Checked all fuses. The other problem is I have a gear change arrow up down that don’t work and also my rev lights don’t work. Everything works on ignition on to show all lights working but they don’t work when driving. To me it’s pointing to the instrument cluster. At the moment I’m not bothered about cruise control so not in a rush to fix it. I need to see if there is a reset I can do first.
Did you manage to change the cluster and correct the miles to your original number of the car? I'm pretty sure I can change mine out now I've watch your video, it's just not having to correct mileage on the car that bothers me
this saved me a lot of hassle and money!! and very well presented with great calmness!! thank you for making and uploading this !
You are very welcome!
Very helpful video thanks. I have same problem with Civic display intermittently going off. The problem is most likely due to dry solder joints - a common problem with old electronics - where they crack and make poor connection over time. The fix is to resolder the joints. You probably don't have to do all of them - typically it will be the ones where component wires go through the board e.g. the main connector with its many pins, as well as the 3-pin 5V regulator (TLE4274V50) and the PNP transistor A1741.
The difficulty for me was how to access the other side of the pcb in order to resolder the joints, in particular removing the lcd module which sits atop the othere dials for rev counter, fuel , temp etc.
After bending, pulling and poking the thing for a while a realized that you remove it by inserting a small flatblade screwdriver into where black plastic of the module fits into the white plastic of the instrument cluster, underneath the lcd module at the bottom. Put a screwdriver between white and black to prize the black plastic away slightly at the two sides. This releases the unit. Be sure to remove the 4-pin plug and the flat ribbon cable first though! The flat ribbon cable is released by pulling the two tabs up on the pcb receptacle.
This is a common problem and it doesn't happen just on the instrument cluster, but on the speed and climate control display as well. Problem is caused by dry solder joints on the PCB. So simply swapping out the instrument cluster for another one is only a temporary fix as there are 2 voltage regulators that get hot and because of heat cycles the solder on the PCB cracks. That dim potentiometer is mounted on the PCB, that's why pressing it causes the backlight to come back temporarily. The potentiometer is NOT the actual problem and it does not need to be repalced. What needs to be done is disassemble the instrument cluster (the 3 needles will have to be removed for that - mark the zero position with a pencil), remove the PCB and re-do the two TO-220 packages solder joints. Additionally, the main connector should also be re-soldered with fresh solder and flux. You will also find cracked plastic parts in the middle section because of the heat from the LEDs which will need some attention and glue before re-assembying. But fixing the instrument cluster is the only long-term solution, unless you replace it with a brand new one of course.
Hi yes you are quite right. Unfortunately I took out my needles and now they don't work smooth anymore ☹️.
@@VynZography Mine works smooth, would check the motors themselves to not have any of that fine white disintegrated plastic inside as from mine there were a lot of small plastic pieces that fell off. However getting them to indicate accurately is a bit tricky, I had to remove and re-install them a couple of times until I got it right.
@@valentinc22 sure I'll give it a go...nothing to lose now.
I have just got the very same issue as you. I bought a speedometer that has been promised from an i-vtech however when I installed it it gave the same problem with the upper screen so I have just returned it to the sender.
Hi, yeah it can be a pain finding the right one. The only thing that can help is checking that the part number on the back is the same.
@@VynZography I forgot to take a note and I wont open it again for a good 6 months now 😅
clear T-cut will restore the instrument panel glass, but not the glossy plastic on either side...
Brilliant! Thanks for sharing!
Having a similar issue with mine. So, when I press the light button in quite hard, it’s all lit up perfectly fine, soon as I remove the pressure it turns off… Squeeze the button in a little more, it’s on.. So it definitely feels like the button is causing the connection issue.. I feel like a tiny piece of plastic between the button and whatever it is contacting would work, but I don’t want to remove my needles. Can you remove the button without interfering with the needles?
The issue seems to be cold solders on the power ICs, not the button at all.
@@VynZography Do you think I can repair this without having to take the needles out?
@@renderpeach some people in the comments have suggested a way to resolder the power transistors from the back without taking out the needles. I have not tried it myself. I know if you take the needles out they will never go back in correctly.
Thanks, very helpful video guide!
i ve got the same issue.. i was lookin for solution. thank you bro... know i know how to repair mine too!!
Thank You, this video helped me very much, big like
Great video man!! I have a little problem but in my center display...going darker on hot weather and Im thinking buying a new cluster...just One question...when you buy a new One the km's need to BE changed?? Or do they memorized in car ecu?
I was surprised to find out that the kms are stored in the panel itself. So you’re going to have new kms unfortunately! TBH it doesn’t bother me.
Do you know if I can i remouve the two side part of the « front and sides dach part» separately? I would like to cover them or repaint them..
I don't know. Try to find a video of dismantling the whole dash.
Hi pal. Where are you based. I have the same issue and was wondering if your close can come see you to sort mine out.
Hey. I l live in London but I don’t have the facilities to do this job for people. I recommend getting a replacement cluster off eBay instead of trying to repair it. Just make sure you get the right one for your car and also remember that the new cluster will have the mileage of the car it came from 👍
Привет, сколько смотрел обзоров с англии всегда пасмурно или дождь.комкет в поддержку канала .
Hi thank you for the video, may I ask the new screen's part number how we can find it
Hi. You have to get a screen with the same part number as your current one. The number is printed on a label on the back.
@@VynZography i haven't uninstall that's why I have asked thank you so much for the reply
@@aliaymak1876 oh I see. Yours might be different from mine so you should check 👍
Great video, really useful! 👌
The buttons where the AC is locates, is there a light at night?
Yes, all of the buttons light up at night.
@@VynZography In our Civic the light is out. All the others work...
@@Tintoycar I don’t think it’s possible to change just the lights but you can open it up and have a go if you want otherwise you have to change the entire switch assembly.
@@VynZography Can i open up just this switch?
@@Tintoycar i’m not sure, but if you are going to have to buy a whole new switch anyway you might as well try. Just don’t break anything!
I have got same issue. but when I contacted my mechanic he told me that you can't change that thing without properly programming it before putting in. what should I do ??
He probably means that without reprogramming it your mileage will be wrong. If you tell him you don't care about that then he might change it for you.
@@VynZography all right thanks
I have the same problem with my Civic , going to give this a try. Only thing I just want to make sure is does the mileage automatically get programmed into the new dash as the garage that sells the Spares state that you will need to get the mileage programmed in?? Please advise
Hi. Yes if you change the panel you will need to get the mileage programmed in.
@@VynZography is the reprogramming easy to do ?
@@akhilvarghese2498 I don’t know I never did it. It doesn’t bother me. I think a high end scan tool can do it.
What about the Klms does it just boot up with the original klms yes.
The klms stays with the instrument panel so if you change the panel the odometer will be wrong. I think the Honda dealer can program it.
Your mileage at the start is 170k and when you install the new cluster it's 131k - does it need reprogramming?
Hi yeah the cluster needs reprogramming to the correct mileage. I didn’t bother.
@@VynZography Ah thanks, I ended up reading the other comments and found out about the soldering trick. Will look into that instead, and if I cock it up, then I'll buy a replacement! Cheers for the informative video.
@@goonhaven exactly. Worth a try!
but if I replace this cluster, does the orginal mileage of my Civic cange definitively?
Your mileage will be whatever comes on the new cluster unfotunately.
@@VynZography in my case it seems that one backlight LED has failed, leaving some dark area on the temperature meter... but accessing the LEDs, which are SMD, is quite a challenge because you will have to dismantle the instrument needles as well
@@Cirocarbone avoid taking out the needles, this destroyed my cluster.
@@VynZography that's why my only chance is to replace it with a different cluster but loosing the original mileage
@Cirocarbone well that’s what I did. Been for 2 MOTs where they pointed it out but that’s all. Doesn’t bother me LOL.
You didn't need to replace the whole cluster. Happened to me. You can open the cluster up and you will see a little potentiometer where the switch for cluster light is. It is hold by two pins.wipe the two pins with isopropil and resolder those two pins.And thats it. It took 20min.
Do you have any pictures of video
I'm interested how to do that aswell.
@@jmiah75 did you find yourself any clear tutorial in that?
Nope
Might just do that instead of purchasing another
Great video. I hope to be lucky to do not need it , becasue it means my dashboard is also broken. I save this video just in case. By the way, your mobile holder is on the CD entry, is your CD broken? Regards, from Spain.
Hi. No the CD player works fine but I hardly use any CDs and this is the best position for a mobile phone. I hate vent mounts because the phone then blocks the vent which is very silly. This is the one I have amzn.to/35NpLjb
@@VynZography thanks for the information.
Good video what did you do with your mileage as it’s a lot lower than what you started with.
Hi thanks for pointing that out. I have been incorrectly telling everyone that the mileage remains the same when you change the cluster. I have since put back the original cluster so not a problem now but I'd like to know how to fix that in the future.
@@VynZography you need to get software that programs new mileage or call someone that can do it. Literally takes 5 minutes.
@@babysham318 It's good to know that it's an easy fix! Thanks. I'm still looking on eBay for one from an i-shift model.
I have a problem with my cruise control not working. Green light works but cruise not setting. Test all switches on the clutch. Checked all fuses. The other problem is I have a gear change arrow up down that don’t work and also my rev lights don’t work. Everything works on ignition on to show all lights working but they don’t work when driving. To me it’s pointing to the instrument cluster. At the moment I’m not bothered about cruise control so not in a rush to fix it. I need to see if there is a reset I can do first.
Did you manage to change the cluster and correct the miles to your original number of the car? I'm pretty sure I can change mine out now I've watch your video, it's just not having to correct mileage on the car that bothers me
How can you polish this glass plastic on the gauge?
I haven't tried this...
The plastic of the screen isnt scratched.. just that cheap ass blue coat that goes away when you clean..
Do you have to programme the key