So many problems seem to arise from the lead free solder now used on Civic mk8 instruments. The same happens with the clock/radio station/heater temp. display. I was quoted £800 for a new instrument cluster alone,let alone the cost of fitting/programming in of the new one. To go second hand seems the cheap option,but then you have to make sure you are getting the right one for your particular model - another minefield + the cost of re-programming of the mileage(which not everyone can do). Excellent video,just wish you were better rewarded for your efforts. I'll have to go back to the future and get another Morris Minor and have a quiet life!
Hi. I really appreciate your comments. Yes it's a shame. They could perhaps give us a break on the replacement part cost, that would have been a nice gesture.
Hi, I had this problem on my Civic, you need to resolder the pins on the two components that have heatsinks on them. These device get quite hot and the solder eventually dries out and cracks. This definitely fixes the problem permanently.
Yeah this is the fix. I managed to sort it without accessing the back. I carefully heated the legs of those components from the front side until they wobbled (indicating that the solder was re flowing). Worked for me but not ideal.
Hi. Please help, where are these components with the heatsinks on the board? You mean the 2 pieces near to the knob, with the a nut on them? On the video, at 3:30 ?
the lighting problem can be caused by two components with coolers, it will help to heat the pin from the side where there is no tin, thanks, good idea :)
Sorry nothing new. I'm just living with it as it's winter and I have to work on my car in the cold and/or rain ☹️. I think I'll look out for another panel from the correct model (auto).
@@horacegrimsby2870 saw a recent update on civ info where a hole was drilled in the corner below the potentiometer to hold the board in place i am going to attempt it on mine
Apparently the board is not situated firmly in some cases and when the button is pushed in the board moves as well Im not as technically minded as you but you could try removing the back of the cluster and connect it while the board is exposed while applying slight pressure where the potentiometer is and see if there are any changes
Yea resolder the two components on the heat sinks. Try to reflow it without getting to the back via thin wire or other means otherwise you won't get the needles back properly
You are right, but just for the odometer. I still have not got around to foxing that. It doesnt really bother me and the MOT people were fine with it too.
za problém z osvětlením mohou dvě součástky z chladičema ohřát pájkou ze strany kde není cín opravdu funguje! díky vám za pomoc!
So many problems seem to arise from the lead free solder now used on Civic mk8 instruments. The same happens with the clock/radio station/heater temp. display. I was quoted £800 for a new instrument cluster alone,let alone the cost of fitting/programming in of the new one. To go second hand seems the cheap option,but then you have to make sure you are getting the right one for your particular model - another minefield + the cost of re-programming of the mileage(which not everyone can do). Excellent video,just wish you were better rewarded for your efforts. I'll have to go back to the future and get another Morris Minor and have a quiet life!
Hi. I really appreciate your comments. Yes it's a shame. They could perhaps give us a break on the replacement part cost, that would have been a nice gesture.
Hi, I had this problem on my Civic, you need to resolder the pins on the two components that have heatsinks on them. These device get quite hot and the solder eventually dries out and cracks. This definitely fixes the problem permanently.
Hi.Yes I did that and it did fix the light issue permanently but the needles never went back back on properly.
@@VynZography how do u get to them since the solderings are on the other side of the circuitboard?
@@vlinkman I took the needles out. But this destroyed the needles so I had to buy a whole new panel ☹️
Yeah this is the fix. I managed to sort it without accessing the back. I carefully heated the legs of those components from the front side until they wobbled (indicating that the solder was re flowing). Worked for me but not ideal.
Hi. Please help, where are these components with the heatsinks on the board? You mean the 2 pieces near to the knob, with the a nut on them? On the video, at 3:30 ?
the lighting problem can be caused by two components with coolers, it will help to heat the pin from the side where there is no tin, thanks, good idea :)
from the outside or inside of the panel
cool. But why didn`t you remove the damn speaker (Bip bip) on the back of the clusterboard
HAHAHHA. I get you but I don't mind it so much 😂😂😂😂
Do you know if i replace my whole cluster, does it show up my mileage, or the car it came off
sorry for the late reply, the mileage will be for the car the panel came off 😞
Hi, you might have to light regulators broken!! manual or automatic shift, a potenciometer is a potenciometer
I think once the weather improves I'm going to take the panel back out and resolder all the joints like I did for the radio display.
Hi. In My honda lcd flashing maybe u have any idea how to fix it ?
Which one? The radio display with the clock?
@@VynZography No is odometer this one witch shows the mileage
Looks like the same problem I was having. I could not fix it I had to change the whole panel with a used one.
Thanks mate
Is there anything new? I have the same problem.
Sorry nothing new. I'm just living with it as it's winter and I have to work on my car in the cold and/or rain ☹️. I think I'll look out for another panel from the correct model (auto).
@@horacegrimsby2870 saw a recent update on civ info where a hole was drilled in the corner below the potentiometer to hold the board in place i am going to attempt it on mine
Apparently the board is not situated firmly in some cases and when the button is pushed in the board moves as well
Im not as technically minded as you but you could try removing the back of the cluster and connect it while the board is exposed while applying slight pressure where the potentiometer is and see if there are any changes
@@kromium7261 Hi sorry for the late reply, i didn't get notified of these comments. Indeed it's all worth a try. Just never take the needles out!
Yea resolder the two components on the heat sinks. Try to reflow it without getting to the back via thin wire or other means otherwise you won't get the needles back properly
I repeat do not try this ,you have to program the cluster ,you can't swop over ,needs to be programmed
You are right, but just for the odometer. I still have not got around to foxing that. It doesnt really bother me and the MOT people were fine with it too.
4274v50 low voltage regulator for tacho blown $1 aliexpress, resolder and done