Just done this on my freeloader. As you say it's important not to run the engine, just do the change by hand. If you don't spill much of the new fluid three quarters of a litre is sufficient to do the job keeping back say a quarter of a litre for topping up if necessary.
Ha I dropped the large oil pan half full of Auto box fluid. I was doing a Gibbons flush, the car was on a ramp and I was holding the oil tray with one hand. It went all over my jeans. I should have done it with the ramp lower with the oil pan on the floor.
Great video! Good idea about raising both front wheels off the ground to help turn the wheel. I found I had to start the engine for a fraction of a second to get it to transfer the fluid. Do a few three point turns to get any trapped air out. It took a few days for all the air to come out of mine.
Thanks Scott 👍🏻. The service manual actually says to start the engine to flush it through. But it also says to use a funnel that seals the reservoir perfectly and to make sure there is 3 to 4 litres of fluid in the funnel so the reservoir doesn't run dry and do all of the with just 1 person. I'm not sure what perfect world Land Rover thinks we are living in, but that sounds like a recipe for at least 2 litres of fluid to end up on the deck and the reservoir to be empty of any fluid. 😂 After seeing how quickly your reservoir emptied with just cranking the engine over, we thought we'd play it safe and do it without the engines help until the final bleed. 😁 - Scott
Nice and easy explanation also easy to follow this is how did mine back in 2017 and recently on my new 2014 SD4 i did not remove the head light because it is just as easy to do without the light removed, therefore less work, also un-plugging any electrics will create DTC faults that need clearing after, good job guy's
Hi Guys I came across your video in a post on a LR forum. I don't know if you'd be able to offer any advice but if you can I'd appreciate it. I have a Freelander SD4 duesel and the steering has become very, very heavy when trying to manoeuvre when parking. And today it was heavy when turning when moving. I have no mechanical expertise and someone said I need to get the pump changed. But would you say it's best to get the reservoir changed first to see if that sorts it? Thanks in advance if you are able to answer.
Hi Paul 👋. If it helps, both Alana and I have very little mechanical knowledge so we are in the same boat. 😅 My advice would be to change the fluid and the reservoir at the same time to start with. Once you've done that, inspect the old reservoir as best as you can from outside the reservoir looking in to see what state the mesh filter is in. The reason I say this is because if it's full of gunk, it's either the fluid being really old or it could be a sign that one of the rubber power steering pipes is breaking down internally which they like to do. You'll soon know if it's a pipe that is breaking down as it'll fill the new bottles mesh filter and block. That then leaves you in an awkward predicament on whether to try and clean the mesh filter of the new reservoir or to buy yet another new reservoir. 😅 (We did the latter of the 2 options 😁) Even though my advice isn't worth all that much, I'd start on the cheaper and easier path of changing the fluid and reservoir and see how you get on. 😃 Just make sure you can manage without the car because if it's anything like our situation, our power steering was working fine before changing the fluid and then pretty much not at all after changing the fluid which then meant we had to change the pump. 🙈 If you need the car, you have the funds, and your cars done about 150,000 miles on the same pump, you could do a "hell Mary" and change the fluid, reservoir and pump all at the same time 😅. As a side note, if you do come to do the pump at any point, make sure to get the right one as our friend Michael was doing his last night, only to find the pump was the wrong one... Hopefully that helps you out a little bit. - Scott
😄. Our theory is, by the time we have replaced everything, it'll be time to replace the bits we did at the very start. 😂 Land Rovers weren't built like your Yamaha was that took you all over New Zealand and Australia. 😄 - Scott
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Hi everyone 👋. If you enjoyed this video, here's another one you might like. 😀 th-cam.com/video/x4RWRbW8tPs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fIlURZXQTlG3Nyu3
Really like the explanation with the video, nice easy to understand, just normal people. Great job guys
Thanks a lot Ford Dude, we appreciate it. 👌
- Scott
Just done this on my freeloader. As you say it's important not to run the engine, just do the change by hand. If you don't spill much of the new fluid three quarters of a litre is sufficient to do the job keeping back say a quarter of a litre for topping up if necessary.
...or if you're like us, get a truck load so you spill 5L of it. 😄
- Scott
Ha I dropped the large oil pan half full of Auto box fluid. I was doing a Gibbons flush, the car was on a ramp and I was holding the oil tray with one hand. It went all over my jeans. I should have done it with the ramp lower with the oil pan on the floor.
@@MikeSmith-tg1ku 😂. That would've made for some funny video if there had been a camera around. 😁 Life is a constant learning curve. 😁
- Scott
Great video! Good idea about raising both front wheels off the ground to help turn the wheel. I found I had to start the engine for a fraction of a second to get it to transfer the fluid. Do a few three point turns to get any trapped air out. It took a few days for all the air to come out of mine.
Thanks Scott 👍🏻. The service manual actually says to start the engine to flush it through. But it also says to use a funnel that seals the reservoir perfectly and to make sure there is 3 to 4 litres of fluid in the funnel so the reservoir doesn't run dry and do all of the with just 1 person.
I'm not sure what perfect world Land Rover thinks we are living in, but that sounds like a recipe for at least 2 litres of fluid to end up on the deck and the reservoir to be empty of any fluid. 😂
After seeing how quickly your reservoir emptied with just cranking the engine over, we thought we'd play it safe and do it without the engines help until the final bleed. 😁
- Scott
Bevis I like your movies. As I say it's easier to have the wheels off the ground and turn the steering wheel by hand.
Nice and easy explanation also easy to follow this is how did mine back in 2017 and recently on my new 2014 SD4 i did not remove the head light because it is just as easy to do without the light removed, therefore less work, also un-plugging any electrics will create DTC faults that need clearing after, good job guy's
Thanks alot Steve and thanks for the tip for everyone 👍🏻😀.
- Scott
Love the videos! Keep them coming!
Thank you Ducati Mike 👍🏻😁.
- Scott
Hi Guys
I came across your video in a post on a LR forum. I don't know if you'd be able to offer any advice but if you can I'd appreciate it. I have a Freelander SD4 duesel and the steering has become very, very heavy when trying to manoeuvre when parking. And today it was heavy when turning when moving. I have no mechanical expertise and someone said I need to get the pump changed. But would you say it's best to get the reservoir changed first to see if that sorts it? Thanks in advance if you are able to answer.
Hi Paul 👋.
If it helps, both Alana and I have very little mechanical knowledge so we are in the same boat. 😅 My advice would be to change the fluid and the reservoir at the same time to start with. Once you've done that, inspect the old reservoir as best as you can from outside the reservoir looking in to see what state the mesh filter is in. The reason I say this is because if it's full of gunk, it's either the fluid being really old or it could be a sign that one of the rubber power steering pipes is breaking down internally which they like to do.
You'll soon know if it's a pipe that is breaking down as it'll fill the new bottles mesh filter and block. That then leaves you in an awkward predicament on whether to try and clean the mesh filter of the new reservoir or to buy yet another new reservoir. 😅 (We did the latter of the 2 options 😁)
Even though my advice isn't worth all that much, I'd start on the cheaper and easier path of changing the fluid and reservoir and see how you get on. 😃 Just make sure you can manage without the car because if it's anything like our situation, our power steering was working fine before changing the fluid and then pretty much not at all after changing the fluid which then meant we had to change the pump. 🙈
If you need the car, you have the funds, and your cars done about 150,000 miles on the same pump, you could do a "hell Mary" and change the fluid, reservoir and pump all at the same time 😅. As a side note, if you do come to do the pump at any point, make sure to get the right one as our friend Michael was doing his last night, only to find the pump was the wrong one...
Hopefully that helps you out a little bit.
- Scott
It's gonna be a brand new car soon.
😄. Our theory is, by the time we have replaced everything, it'll be time to replace the bits we did at the very start. 😂 Land Rovers weren't built like your Yamaha was that took you all over New Zealand and Australia. 😄
- Scott