i recently built a 240 volt 30 amp pid with a 4400 watt element would have never new it was some thing i could do my self if not for you and your video so many thanks to you for taking time out of your life to educate the rest of us. i had been using a propain burner before and recently moved to a place where the noise of the burner would have drawn to much attention and looking at spending another four or five hundred on my hobby was just more than i could justify so thank you for making it possible to continue with the hobby
Thanks George for the excellent post. I recently pulled the trigger on a still... Going to build my own controller and your video saved me a lot of research.
I viewed all of your PID Controller videos and was able to put one together with a fan, volt/amp meter and and independent 120 VAC 20 amp outlets, and it works. Thank you.
George, this video helped me today. I’m building a guitar side bender temperature controller for a silicon blanket heater. I’m using the Auber Instruments Ramp/Soak controller and a SSR. I want to have the sides bent at a higher temp and then lower the temp to help the sides from springing back. I wanted to add a fan and I didn’t know where to get the 12V transformer or what to get to keep from having to put a 120V fan. This is great! I appreciate your videos. Thank you.
Since I started using it ,my workplace has been a safer and more comfortable atmosphere. Works great with either Hot plate or internal heater. The stainless foldback treats the wash like family,not an enemy like a simple thermostat.
Hey George I have been watching you videos I am putting together a powder coat oven and I am going to use a PID controller. I just ordered my parts and I am looking forward to putting it together thank you for the great information.
I am working on a PWM controller that has a built in PID loop. Think about an Adjustable Speed Drive (ASD) for motors, but connected to three heater elements. Just need a custom kettle with three heater element ports offset at 120 degrees. I will let you know if I can get it to work.
George, it is better to use a cement made for plastic to mount the transformer. "Superglue" may hold, but for a permanent mount use a plastic cement or epoxy for best results.
I built my PID controller this weekend. Great videos here:) I used the Inkbird PID/40A SSR with switches for the heater and water pump. Got to love Amazon for parts.
George, thanks so much for the additional help today. I would love to support your channel through Patreon or Amazon referral links. I’ll keep you updated on my neonatal puppy incubator! Your PID videos are the best on TH-cam, and you are a super nice guy. Thanks again. -Brittany Levinson Canton, GA
Thanks Gearge, for all of your great information (videos), I would like to know which video would demonstrate the wiring for a 45 gal still, I have already purchased the My pin SSR PID, 2 SSR's 50 amp , and all of the parts that you suggested, I would like to use 220/240v and I am using 10-4 cord coming into the system, I also would like it to be dual element. I purchased a larger enclosure enclosure (13-3/4 x 13-3/4) all in a "nutshell" I am confused and unsure how to wire because of the 4th "Red" hot wire. Could you Get me on the right track? Samuel Ducote
The link you provided shows a Mypin that comes with a K probe, but doesn't state what size. Do you remember what the diameter was on the included K device?
George, you are a gift to the craft; a true gentleman and a scholar. Truly passing along the craft! In a previous video I watched, you suggested the SSR-40va...the one in this video is the SSR-25DA. Is the 40va for the analog system with the dial?
Thanks for the great videos. My smoker PID needs a transformer to go from 120v to 12v ~3 amps to power the fan. I also want to mount it in the box. Any recommendations
In forum debates, most seem to think a heavy rheostat is best for dialing in heating element power. My question is different though, in that I want to know what will actually save electricity, potentially lowering my electric bill. I'm betting the PID wins that category?
I enjoy the way you explain electronics, George. Thanks. I don’t understand how to wire a 220 volt PID controller with an SSR that has only room for one wire. The 220 volt kiln has two hot wires. How would I do that?
Hi George I am enjoying your presentations! But I have a problem - could i use a AC240V To DC 12V 1A Power Supply Adapter Transformer LED Strip to run the fan? I cant find the "Meanwell AC-DC SMPS IRM-10 MEAN WELL Switching Power Supply" that you recommend, on Ebay or here in Australia?
I subscribed because you are an excellent teacher and I love to watch your videos. I also have a total newbie question: I have a thermostat (XH-W3001) and all I want is to control a 75 watts bulb as a heating element. Do I need to buy an SSD relay as well? I think I have a FOTEK SSR-25 DA as the one in your video but I have seen some people having this thermostat and using an SSD relay and others not using it. The bulb will keep a 70-75 degree Celsius temperature for about 1 hour per day. I know is a newbie question but I do not have skills in this trade and I want to learn before I do my build. Thank you.
Hi George, I'm building a powder coating oven about 16"x16"x 72"h with 2 heating elements, not sure if they are for 110 or 220 . I would like to use a PID controller, with a heat disipperator and 12v step down. Can you please tell me the parts I need for this project and where can I buy the parts Thanks Julio
at 7:00 minutes your talking about output, I got one that does say ssr but it is a berm, I found it said 3a 13vdc output, guess I am good, it was 20 bucks just for the module
Is any accuracy lost or are there any discrepancy’s with the extra connection in the thermo couple line? Also what wire do you use from the thermo couple plugs to the PID? I have researched and some manufactures of thermo couples say to use only thermo couple wire and that extra joints or connections can give a false reading to the PID.
Did you find out about the type of wire after? And the yellow K-Type connectors? Are the connections made of the same metal alloys as the wire so as to not give erroneous readings? (Chromel and Alumel?)
Your question is not clearly stated. If you are looking for a 240v to 12v transformer to run your fan, you don' t need one. Use the same transformer that George suggests. Simply connect the input of the transformer to either one of the two power leads from your 240v source (both the red and black are a 120v source...it doesn't matter which you use). Connect the common (white) lead from the 240v source to the ground of the transformer. These two connections from the 240v will provide the 120v input to the transferormer. HAPPY BREWING!
@@rocketsurgeon7057 I only have a 3-wire 240v source (green-ground, black, white). I understand that black should go to the ac/l pin but which (green or white) should go to the ac/n pin?
Thanks for your video sharing. I am going to make one of these to control a heating blanket. 1025 watts 120v Do I need some kind of fuse and where in line do I install it. I have purchased most of the components. Like the MyPin T series. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks db
Very clear cut videos - watched them all on the PID as I have gathered most of the parts to build mine, just adding a few items for the "cool factor". Two things though, I saw another video where they installed fuses and you do not - can you tell me your thoughts on this? The other guy did not install a fan either, saying that for his use (same as mine) that the SSR with the heat sink is good enough on its own - and his box is fully enclosed with no air holes at all. Thoughts ? Thanks
I would always include at least ventilation but a fan is best for high amp draw when the SSR could heat up but you could probably do without it. I prefer to not fuse inside the box since my system is already fused at the panel. Too many additions can lead to more points of failure and fusing int eh box, to me, is an unnecessary redundancy.
Now that makes sense. I found an old small speaker that will be almost perfect for a project box and I can place the SSR/heat sink at the old speaker opening. I can install a fan over that hole later if I decide to add in the transformer to run it. If I go that route, then I may also install an alarm or something to take advantage of that set of pins while using that same power supply. I found out that the Alarm pins are just a switch and can be used for anything you decide to power from another source. Thanks for your quick response. You did a great job on your videos.
Thanks for the video george ,i have a question of a diffrent subject. I havent been down to.your shop in a whe and was woundering with this covid thing .are you still open. Id love to come by and put in a order for a still. Let be know sir .
Hi George What are your thoughts on installing a PWM controller after the PID controller so I could manually limit the power going to the heating elements after the initial heat up and still have the PID auto cruise the temperature ? Great videos George, Your insights are an inspiration.
Not sure if a PWM in series with a PID is a good idea. I've never done this and just thinking about it they may compete with each other and render some weird results like out of control temps.
Thanks for the quick response. My thinking is that a 3000 watt heater to reach temperature then the Pwm could be set to lets say 60% with would equate to a 1800 watt heating element, the iIkbird ITC-106VH would then control the 1800 Watt heater with less on and off's to maintain the set temperature. I'm not an electrician so its all theory on my part.
Hey George. I love your videos and advice. Please keep them coming! I am needing a 120v PID temperature controler like you build in your show. I'm pretty handy a lot of things, but this just might be over my head. Would you be willing to sell one of your systems? Thanks, Jeff
George, I obtained a 2 inch flexible (hollow) stopper that your temperature probe slides into. It slides into the top of my tower. But, I cannot for the life of me remember where I ordered it from! Do you know where I can order one?
Ok call me dumb, But my question is, I'm wiring a PID 120v and a 25SSR. I want a 2000w element. I have a 10gallon boiler. Ok I have checked my breakers all are 15amp. Doing some research, Is this going to work without blowing a breaker?
This is great! Thank you so much for putting these together. I have a quick question. Currently building a set up that has 12 heating elements running at 120V/250W each. Wanted to build it to control all through the controller. Do I need to add multiple relays to cover those or would one be sufficient? I'm not an electrician and learning as I'm doing. Appreciate any help!
One SSR per PID controller. You either use one big-ass SSR, like a 50 Amp and then heat sink the heck out of it, or you use 2 controllers each with an SSR - one PID controller and SSR for 6 heaters, the 2nd for the next 6 heaters. BTW- 12 @ 250W = 3000 W, which is about 25 Amps. But do not use a 25 A SSR. Always use an SSR with 2x the rating. So 50A minimum. Or like I said, do 1 controller/SSR per 6 heaters.
By June of 2021 the parts list is a bit dated - many came up as not available on Amazon. Any chance you could put up a current list of items? And on Amazon.ca some of the items are substituted, not sure how to solve that one.
Hello, hope everyone is well today . I am new to the community and I am shopping for the parts for my PID and I found that they sell the whole thremo coupler kit after I ordered all the parts already except for the solid-state relay. I am confused does anyone know about the kits I do not see the exact kit George puts together .but they have others will these work there is like a Inkbird 120 to 240 ACV 106 vh ITC-40 DA SSR will this thermo coupler set up work .
Mrng sir I buy a REX-C100FK02-M*AN pid controller its output type is RELAY in the manual it shows RELAY CONTACT OUTPUT. can I replace RELAY CONTACT OUTPUT with Solid state relay
Hey George, another great video, i have a question though, I have a Turbo 500, would this help me regulate my temps when running as an Alembic pot still, i have done one run of apple brandy which turned out good but if i could hold my temps back it could be better. Thanks in advance.
George ; I built this a ways back, but I seem to have developed an issue in the box ... when the heating element is ON, the temperature reading on the PID starts increasing steadily (the PV). After doing some testing, it would seem that there is something going on in the box ... maybe some electrical conenctions touching? what would cause this?
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing OK. More detail. I found this article about the general topic : blog.wika.us/products/temperature-products/six-common-causes-thermocouple-temperature-measurement-errors/ I am wondering if you've heard of other people that have this issue ... I am running a RIMS on my mash tun. I have multiple temp probes running now to help diagnose my issue - which has been missing the mast temp target significantly (10-15*) on the low side. I have one probe in the mash, another at the RIMS tube, and a third at the pump - all of which read the same temp before heating. The box I built has only 1 probe attached to it at a time - I have tested each probe location connected to the box. When the heating unit is on, the heat sink obviously heats up too ... and the fan running helps to cool it a lot, but the air in the box also heats up for sure. What is happening is that the PID reads the PV as increasing at a much higher rate (and the amount higher increases the longer the heater is ON ... rund up to 20* hotter) than the actual product (as compared to the other two probes), and then, dutifully, shuts off. I am 95% sure its' something in the box (ambient temp? some electrical phenomenon that I am unaware of?) as the PID is accurate until the heater is running. is that enough info to help me troubleshoot + course correct?
Using the SSR to run the fan could be problematic since it is 3-32 V DC. Most fans are 6-12V DC. Running it off the SSR if possible would only operate it when the PID turns on and would go off when it shuts off. This acts similar to a pulse width modulator so you are not sure if the amount of electricity through this process is enough for the fan to operate. Hope this makes sense. I always run a small IC transformer to operate the fan. George
Inkbird 106vh, I've got all of your instructions wrote down, Just you never tell how to set the TEMPERATURE you want to maintain. Please tell how to set the temperature.
Hey George, I am struggling to find a few of these components. The transformer is no longer available on Amazon and I'm searching for a comparable replacement. Do you have any recommendations? I'm not an electrical guy so I relying solely on your videos to complete my PID. Thanks in advance for your help
question for you sir ... how the heck do you solder to that ic power switch for the fan?! can you recommend alternative products that do not require soldering???
I have not found any ICs at a reasonable cost that do not require soldering. Doesn't mean that they are not out there. Do a search on google for ICs (120V to 12 V DC). See what you can find.
The link to the sat and heatsink is no longer good can you send me a new link so I can make sure to get the right one there are so many choices thank you
Hey George, if I am planning to run a 220V/3000W-Element in the European Union (230V,50Hz from the Outlet), am I correct in my assumption, that I am able to use all of your listed components except the IC-Transformer!?
The IC transformer will also work. The Hz is a cycle measurement and only affects timing circuits. Transformers are not affected by the difference between 50 and 60 Hz.
Not necessarily cheaper but very reasonable. I assemble these for people who want one made for their particular process. If you are interested send me an email at pidcontrollers76@gmail.com Tell me what your needs are and I will reply with a quote. If you agree I can send you an invoice via email that can be paid online (free shipping) and once paid I will build and ship it. Hope this helps. George
2000 Watt elements are the limit in the market. They don't make larger wattage elements for 120 Volts. Above 2000 watts they are all 240 volt elements.
George, I am having a problem with my Berm Rex C100? I have set my SV to 172 and my PV remains around 101-102? I'm not sure what setting is wrong on my PID?
I changed the setting to Fahrenheit already? I'm not sure what to do to next to check this problem. I have three different versions of instructions for this particular Chinese made PID and they are all different? Please help with any suggestions you may have to find the problem. Thanks and I love your channel!
This is an example of why I normally do not comment on the REX C100. They are not reliable controllers. It sounds like your PID is faulting out . Is the "out" light on or is it off? Did it work originally or is this the first try? This info would be helpful. George
Can you help explain to me how to figure out what size ssr I need? It would be a 500w heating element keeping a small lead pot with less than a quart capacity but need to keep it at 550c. Its standard 110v operation
You can use the 25 amp SSR and feel confident that it will serve you well. The 500 W heater will not require more amperage than this is rated for. These SSRs are fairly cheap (around $8 or so) George
Sorry. I didn't answer the question, I just gave you a recommendation. Here is how you figure out what size you need. You have a 500 Watt element and you also have 120 Volts. Watts divided by Volts will equal Amperage requirement so: 500/120= 4.16666666 amps. As you can see the 25 amp SSR is more than enough to handle your heating requirement. George
Forgive for jumping in...not meaning to highjack OP...just had a question George...the Inkbird I got came with the 40A SSR...if my requirements for amperage will be low do I need the smaller 25A or will the 40A still suffice either wired 120 or 240? Just figured it’s bigger it would still be ok but thought I’d check. Thanks for your videos btw I really enjoy them and are very helpful!
Oh, different question now. You asked how much did I charge for labor and I understood that to mean in the video. In the video there is no cost because I get to keep it. Now for others who would like for me to wire it is a different story. It would all depend on what the requirements are. George
George Duncan in the video you say, "this customer wants," so I assumed it wasnt for you. I'm installing a 4 PID system with indicator lights and switches, 3 elements, it's a complete kit. I just have to wire it. I dont know how much to charge I was going with $300. So I was just curious as to what YOU WOULD CHARGE. Sorry if it's a loaded question, I know there's alot of factors, just ballpark price.
Your figure sounds fair to me. When I build a basic controller I charge about $70 or so for assembly, testing and shipping. Very economical as i don't make a living from this, it's just a side hobby I don't mind doing. George
Sorry for the delayed response. I was on vacation in Vegas for the past 5 days. Anything is possible. Most 120 V fans are a bit too larger. The cost of a transformer and a 12 or 5 volt DC fan still comes out less expensive.
Hope you had fun! I am using a different box so that makes a difference. Yeah, price can be a bit different, but I still like 'KISS'. More parts means more opportunity for failures. Thanks for the great videos!
You should really take this video down (or correct it) before somebody gets killed. When giving instructions for wiring up the illuminated switch you say the top 2 are the 'hot' connections and the other one goes to ground. It doesn't go to ground, it goes to neutral. If it is connected to ground, at best, it will blow a fuse or trip, at worst, someone will get a (possibly lethal) shock. Further, when suggesting an alterative switch you show what we in the UK call a 'grid' switch. These are mainly used for lighting and are rated at 5 Amps. George, I am guessing that you are not a qualified electrician and, if I'm right, you really should NOT be giving advice on the use of mains electricity.
I’d like to say a big thank you George as I’ve just built my PID controller following your advice and videos
i recently built a 240 volt 30 amp pid with a 4400 watt element would have never new it was some thing i could do my self if not for you and your video so many thanks to you for taking time out of your life to educate the rest of us. i had been using a propain burner before and recently moved to a place where the noise of the burner would have drawn to much attention and looking at spending another four or five hundred on my hobby was just more than i could justify so thank you for making it possible to continue with the hobby
Did you use this kit or did you upgrade something?
Thanks George for the excellent post. I recently pulled the trigger on a still... Going to build my own controller and your video saved me a lot of research.
I viewed all of your PID Controller videos and was able to put one together with a fan, volt/amp meter and and independent 120 VAC 20 amp outlets, and it works. Thank you.
We use PID for mushroom substrate sterilizers.. Love your video. Thank you for sharing!
George, this video helped
me today. I’m building a guitar side bender temperature controller for a silicon blanket heater. I’m using the Auber Instruments Ramp/Soak controller and a SSR. I want to have the sides bent at a higher temp and then lower the temp to help the sides from springing back. I wanted to add a fan and I didn’t know where to get the 12V transformer or what to get to keep from having to put a 120V fan. This is great! I appreciate your videos. Thank you.
George! I have completed all of the "Mypin TA4 PID Contoller" episodes! Thank you for helping get our education together!!
Since I started using it ,my workplace has been a safer and more comfortable atmosphere. Works great with either Hot plate or internal heater. The stainless foldback treats the wash like family,not an enemy like a simple thermostat.
George your efforts are appreciated. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Kind regards from Germany.
Hey George I have been watching you videos I am putting together a powder coat oven and I am going to use a PID controller. I just ordered my parts and I am looking forward to putting it together thank you for the great information.
Thanks George for great information out of South Africa 🇿🇦
George, doing my first test run with the PID. Thanks so much, it’s a pretty amazing tool, thanks for sharing
I am working on a PWM controller that has a built in PID loop. Think about an Adjustable Speed Drive (ASD) for motors, but connected to three heater elements. Just need a custom kettle with three heater element ports offset at 120 degrees. I will let you know if I can get it to work.
These things work great George I've made 2 now both Rex c100's. Thanks for the tip .Cheers from Down under
This is exactly what I want. Time to take notes. Thanks George
George, it is better to use a cement made for plastic to mount the transformer. "Superglue" may hold, but for a permanent mount use a plastic cement or epoxy for best results.
I built my PID controller this weekend. Great videos here:) I used the Inkbird PID/40A SSR with switches for the heater and water pump. Got to love Amazon for parts.
Awesome.
George
Love these videos ... Has been an incredible education
Thank you George for another excellent video!
Thank you so much george, absolutely love your channel. That heat sink , I could not find on amazon, thanks for the education
Well done George keep up the good work
THANK YOU (George) you are great
George, thanks so much for the additional help today. I would love to support your channel through Patreon or Amazon referral links. I’ll keep you updated on my neonatal puppy incubator! Your PID videos are the best on TH-cam, and you are a super nice guy. Thanks again. -Brittany Levinson Canton, GA
It was a pleasure talking with you.
Good luck
George
Thanks Gearge, for all of your great information (videos), I would like to know which video would demonstrate the wiring for a 45 gal still,
I have already purchased the My pin SSR PID, 2 SSR's 50 amp , and all of the parts that you suggested, I would like to use 220/240v and I am using 10-4
cord coming into the system, I also would like it to be dual element. I purchased a larger enclosure enclosure (13-3/4 x 13-3/4) all in a "nutshell" I am confused and unsure how to wire because of the 4th "Red" hot wire. Could you Get me on the right track? Samuel Ducote
Great video..i look for an affordable PID with a ramp funtion to be able to ramp up 2 degree per minute. Would you know of a good choice?.thank you
excellent job what you do, I am interested in making a controller for my brewery but with gas burners
Thanks George, very informative👍🏻
The link you provided shows a Mypin that comes with a K probe, but doesn't state what size. Do you remember what the diameter was on the included K device?
George, you are a gift to the craft; a true gentleman and a scholar. Truly passing along the craft! In a previous video I watched, you suggested the SSR-40va...the one in this video is the SSR-25DA. Is the 40va for the analog system with the dial?
George, been looking for small 20amp outlet. Only found 15amp on Amazon.... ur doing great work my friend. Keep videos coming. Inspiring
They're pretty common and used in commercial construction all the time. I'd recommend checking out your local electric store
Thanks for the great videos. My smoker PID needs a transformer to go from 120v to 12v ~3 amps to power the fan. I also want to mount it in the box. Any recommendations
This is what I use
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MEJE3KI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I get them from Amazon
In forum debates, most seem to think a heavy rheostat is best for dialing in heating element power. My question is different though, in that I want to know what will actually save electricity, potentially lowering my electric bill. I'm betting the PID wins that category?
Yes. I agree
I enjoy the way you explain electronics, George. Thanks. I don’t understand how to wire a 220 volt PID controller with an SSR that has only room for one wire. The 220 volt kiln has two hot wires. How would I do that?
This is the same as our 120 Volt system. The difference is it is 220 Volts. One hot leg (wire) and one neutral.
George
Do you have a video describing the build of a brew controller for a three-vessel system using gas burners?
Hi George I am enjoying your presentations! But I have a problem - could i use a AC240V To DC 12V 1A Power Supply Adapter Transformer LED Strip to run the fan?
I cant find the "Meanwell AC-DC SMPS IRM-10 MEAN WELL Switching Power Supply" that you recommend, on Ebay or here in Australia?
You are the best George
George do you prefer to have the fan blowing in the box or out of the box?
I subscribed because you are an excellent teacher and I love to watch your videos. I also have a total newbie question: I have a thermostat (XH-W3001) and all I want is to control a 75 watts bulb as a heating element. Do I need to buy an SSD relay as well? I think I have a FOTEK SSR-25 DA as the one in your video but I have seen some people having this thermostat and using an SSD relay and others not using it. The bulb will keep a 70-75 degree Celsius temperature for about 1 hour per day. I know is a newbie question but I do not have skills in this trade and I want to learn before I do my build. Thank you.
An SSR in your case is beneficial and the 25 DA is the proper selection. You can run multiple lights from that single SSR.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Thank you very much for your answer. I will do this with the SSR relay. I learn a lot from your videos.
Hi George, I'm building a powder coating oven about 16"x16"x 72"h with 2 heating elements, not sure if they are for 110 or 220 . I would like to use a PID controller, with a heat disipperator and 12v step down. Can you please tell me the parts I need for this project and where can I buy the parts
Thanks
Julio
at 7:00 minutes your talking about output, I got one that does say ssr but it is a berm, I found it said 3a 13vdc output, guess I am good, it was 20 bucks just for the module
Thanks you St. Arnold
Is any accuracy lost or are there any discrepancy’s with the extra connection in the thermo couple line?
Also what wire do you use from the thermo couple plugs to the PID? I have researched and some manufactures of thermo couples say to use only thermo couple wire and that extra joints or connections can give a false reading to the PID.
Did you find out about the type of wire after? And the yellow K-Type connectors? Are the connections made of the same metal alloys as the wire so as to not give erroneous readings? (Chromel and Alumel?)
Funny but lately my therapeutic event is bagging my own groceries....spending lots of time home from this pandemic
I am trying to build one of these as a 240-volt. I'm having a hard time finding a transformer for the fan. Any suggestions?
Your question is not clearly stated. If you are looking for a 240v to 12v transformer to run your fan, you don' t need one. Use the same transformer that George suggests. Simply connect the input of the transformer to either one of the two power leads from your 240v source (both the red and black are a 120v source...it doesn't matter which you use). Connect the common (white) lead from the 240v source to the ground of the transformer. These two connections from the 240v will provide the 120v input to the transferormer. HAPPY BREWING!
@@rocketsurgeon7057 I only have a 3-wire 240v source (green-ground, black, white). I understand that black should go to the ac/l pin but which (green or white) should go to the ac/n pin?
Thanks for your video sharing.
I am going to make one of these to control a heating blanket. 1025 watts 120v
Do I need some kind of fuse and where in line do I install it.
I have purchased most of the components. Like the MyPin T series.
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks db
You certainly could add a fuse to this. You can put it anywhere in the main stream line of current.
Good idea.
George
Very clear cut videos - watched them all on the PID as I have gathered most of the parts to build mine, just adding a few items for the "cool factor".
Two things though, I saw another video where they installed fuses and you do not - can you tell me your thoughts on this?
The other guy did not install a fan either, saying that for his use (same as mine) that the SSR with the heat sink is good enough on its own - and his box is fully enclosed with no air holes at all. Thoughts ? Thanks
I would always include at least ventilation but a fan is best for high amp draw when the SSR could heat up but you could probably do without it.
I prefer to not fuse inside the box since my system is already fused at the panel. Too many additions can lead to more points of failure and fusing int eh box, to me, is an unnecessary redundancy.
Now that makes sense. I found an old small speaker that will be almost perfect for a project box and I can place the SSR/heat sink at the old speaker opening.
I can install a fan over that hole later if I decide to add in the transformer to run it.
If I go that route, then I may also install an alarm or something to take advantage of that set of pins while using that same power supply.
I found out that the Alarm pins are just a switch and can be used for anything you decide to power from another source.
Thanks for your quick response. You did a great job on your videos.
Thanks for the video george ,i have a question of a diffrent subject. I havent been down to.your shop in a whe and was woundering with this covid thing .are you still open. Id love to come by and put in a order for a still. Let be know sir .
Do you have the link to the next video, thank you
Can you run a 110 volt with the 40 amp relay
Hi George What are your thoughts on installing a PWM controller after the PID controller so I could manually limit the power going to the heating elements after the initial heat up and still have the PID auto cruise the temperature ? Great videos George, Your insights are an inspiration.
Not sure if a PWM in series with a PID is a good idea. I've never done this and just thinking about it they may compete with each other and render some weird results like out of control temps.
Thanks for the quick response. My thinking is that a 3000 watt heater to reach temperature then the Pwm could be set to lets say 60% with would equate to a 1800 watt heating element, the iIkbird ITC-106VH would then control the 1800 Watt heater with less on and off's to maintain the set temperature. I'm not an electrician so its all theory on my part.
Don't worry about the on/offs. The PID in theory actually acts like a PWM but in the digital realm.
Hey George. I love your videos and advice. Please keep them coming! I am needing a 120v PID temperature controler like you build in your show. I'm pretty handy a lot of things, but this just might be over my head. Would you be willing to sell one of your systems? Thanks, Jeff
Send me an email and I will send you an invoice.
I can't locate your email address. Would you share it with me?
how do I buy one. I would feel more comfortable having someone such as yourself building it, rather than myself.
George, I obtained a 2 inch flexible (hollow) stopper that your temperature probe slides into. It slides into the top of my tower. But, I cannot for the life of me remember where I ordered it from! Do you know where I can order one?
bought the r and r (7.12) ? then just by a SCR its about 4 $
Ok call me dumb, But my question is, I'm wiring a PID 120v and a 25SSR. I want a 2000w element. I have a 10gallon boiler. Ok I have checked my breakers all are 15amp. Doing some research, Is this going to work without blowing a breaker?
This is great! Thank you so much for putting these together. I have a quick question. Currently building a set up that has 12 heating elements running at 120V/250W each. Wanted to build it to control all through the controller. Do I need to add multiple relays to cover those or would one be sufficient? I'm not an electrician and learning as I'm doing. Appreciate any help!
One SSR per PID controller. You either use one big-ass SSR, like a 50 Amp and then heat sink the heck out of it, or you use 2 controllers each with an SSR - one PID controller and SSR for 6 heaters, the 2nd for the next 6 heaters.
BTW- 12 @ 250W = 3000 W, which is about 25 Amps. But do not use a 25 A SSR. Always use an SSR with 2x the rating. So 50A minimum. Or like I said, do 1 controller/SSR per 6 heaters.
@@6strings735 thank you!
By June of 2021 the parts list is a bit dated - many came up as not available on Amazon. Any chance you could put up a current list of items? And on Amazon.ca some of the items are substituted, not sure how to solve that one.
George I still haven’t been able to find the 20 amp panel mount receptacle, could you provide a link please? Love your videos
www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Qualtek/739W-X2-20?qs=EesWBoFYrCN9mFoZ9P8gaQ%3D%3D&gclid=CjwKCAjwzenbBRB3EiwAItS-uy6FceHKnZTLmom04ZijhIHWnEA7WvDVkWws-GTvfXqNn0GAfBCkGBoCZBAQAvD_BwE
www.alliedelec.com/qualtek-electronics-corp-739w-x2-20/70133330/?mkwid=sx7uHoOi8&pcrid=30980760979&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKCAjwzenbBRB3EiwAItS-u63KUYin_ko_jQAdtTOZEyWol8InneL8Nrk8t59oF7EjPfUXk-fkbRoCuIsQAvD_BwE
George you sir are a rock star, thank you
Hello, hope everyone is well today . I am new to the community and I am shopping for the parts for my PID and I found that they sell the whole thremo coupler kit after I ordered all the parts already except for the solid-state relay. I am confused does anyone know about the kits I do not see the exact kit George puts together .but they have others will these work there is like a Inkbird 120 to 240 ACV 106 vh ITC-40 DA SSR will this thermo coupler set up work .
Mrng sir I buy a REX-C100FK02-M*AN pid controller its output type is RELAY in the manual it shows RELAY CONTACT OUTPUT. can I replace RELAY CONTACT OUTPUT with Solid state relay
Hey George, another great video, i have a question though, I have a Turbo 500, would this help me regulate my temps when running as an Alembic pot still, i have done one run of apple brandy which turned out good but if i could hold my temps back it could be better. Thanks in advance.
These do not lend themselves to the T500 but you can give it a try
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Thanks, i will give it a bash and see what happens
I need one george!!
how much are they if i buy one from you? and where do I find if for sale?
George ; I built this a ways back, but I seem to have developed an issue in the box ... when the heating element is ON, the temperature reading on the PID starts increasing steadily (the PV). After doing some testing, it would seem that there is something going on in the box ... maybe some electrical conenctions touching? what would cause this?
Not sure. There is not enough information here to even guess.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing OK. More detail.
I found this article about the general topic : blog.wika.us/products/temperature-products/six-common-causes-thermocouple-temperature-measurement-errors/
I am wondering if you've heard of other people that have this issue ...
I am running a RIMS on my mash tun. I have multiple temp probes running now to help diagnose my issue - which has been missing the mast temp target significantly (10-15*) on the low side. I have one probe in the mash, another at the RIMS tube, and a third at the pump - all of which read the same temp before heating.
The box I built has only 1 probe attached to it at a time - I have tested each probe location connected to the box. When the heating unit is on, the heat sink obviously heats up too ... and the fan running helps to cool it a lot, but the air in the box also heats up for sure.
What is happening is that the PID reads the PV as increasing at a much higher rate (and the amount higher increases the longer the heater is ON ... rund up to 20* hotter) than the actual product (as compared to the other two probes), and then, dutifully, shuts off. I am 95% sure its' something in the box (ambient temp? some electrical phenomenon that I am unaware of?) as the PID is accurate until the heater is running.
is that enough info to help me troubleshoot + course correct?
** Is there any reasonably priced prebuilt controller i can buy? Ordering all these parts seems really hard..
Should I use a transformer to run a dc fan or is it possible to use the dc off the ssr to run the fan without compromising any part of the system?
Using the SSR to run the fan could be problematic since it is 3-32 V DC. Most fans are 6-12V DC.
Running it off the SSR if possible would only operate it when the PID turns on and would go off when it shuts off. This acts similar to a pulse width modulator so you are not sure if the amount of electricity through this process is enough for the fan to operate.
Hope this makes sense.
I always run a small IC transformer to operate the fan.
George
Inkbird 106vh, I've got all of your instructions wrote down, Just you never tell how to set the TEMPERATURE you want to maintain. Please tell how to set the temperature.
have some question aboutre rigging my still
Can we buy all this American made???
Thanks !!
Hey George, I am struggling to find a few of these components. The transformer is no longer available on Amazon and I'm searching for a comparable replacement. Do you have any recommendations? I'm not an electrical guy so I relying solely on your videos to complete my PID. Thanks in advance for your help
Scott Bailey I think he uses a usb wall plug now.
George, where did you get the round connector that holds the input power cable into the box?
These are called gland fittings. Search Amazon
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing thank you George.
question for you sir ... how the heck do you solder to that ic power switch for the fan?! can you recommend alternative products that do not require soldering???
I have not found any ICs at a reasonable cost that do not require soldering. Doesn't mean that they are not out there. Do a search on google for ICs (120V to 12 V DC). See what you can find.
George do you sell completed PIDs?
The link to the sat and heatsink is no longer good can you send me a new link so I can make sure to get the right one there are so many choices thank you
I have a quick question - are you still answering messages?
Great video and instructions George! Do you have plans, parts list and wiring diagram for a 240 volt system? Thanks again!
Might be a good idea for another video but really it is the same except for the wiring of the main power. Still I'll see if we can fit it in
George
Thank you George!
Hey George, if I am planning to run a 220V/3000W-Element in the European Union (230V,50Hz from the Outlet), am I correct in my assumption, that I am able to use all of your listed components except the IC-Transformer!?
The IC transformer will also work. The Hz is a cycle measurement and only affects timing circuits. Transformers are not affected by the difference between 50 and 60 Hz.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Thank you George, keep up the good work :)
can i control this with a plc
would it be cheaper to buy one that is already assembled ? if so which one do you recommend ?
Not necessarily cheaper but very reasonable. I assemble these for people who want one made for their particular process.
If you are interested send me an email at pidcontrollers76@gmail.com
Tell me what your needs are and I will reply with a quote. If you agree I can send you an invoice via email that can be paid online (free shipping) and once paid I will build and ship it.
Hope this helps.
George
you're the absolute best.......
Is there a different ssr and heat sink we can use? The one on this list can't be found anymore.
TWTADE SSR-40 DD 40A DC 3-32V to DC 5-60V SSR Solid State Relay + Heat Sink
Size:DC to DC 40A Will this work?
Roll over image to zoom in
VIDEO
TWTADE SSR-25 DD 25A DC 3-32V to DC 5-60V SSR Solid State Relay + Heat Sink or is this one ok?
Wait.. is 2000w/ @120 /20 at the upper end of your safety range?
2000 Watt elements are the limit in the market. They don't make larger wattage elements for 120 Volts. Above 2000 watts they are all 240 volt elements.
George, I am having a problem with my Berm Rex C100? I have set my SV to 172 and my PV remains around 101-102? I'm not sure what setting is wrong on my PID?
I changed the setting to Fahrenheit already? I'm not sure what to do to next to check this problem. I have three different versions of instructions for this particular Chinese made PID and they are all different? Please help with any suggestions you may have to find the problem. Thanks and I love your channel!
This is an example of why I normally do not comment on the REX C100. They are not reliable controllers.
It sounds like your PID is faulting out . Is the "out" light on or is it off?
Did it work originally or is this the first try?
This info would be helpful.
George
Can you help explain to me how to figure out what size ssr I need? It would be a 500w heating element keeping a small lead pot with less than a quart capacity but need to keep it at 550c. Its standard 110v operation
You can use the 25 amp SSR and feel confident that it will serve you well.
The 500 W heater will not require more amperage than this is rated for. These SSRs are fairly cheap (around $8 or so)
George
Sorry. I didn't answer the question, I just gave you a recommendation.
Here is how you figure out what size you need.
You have a 500 Watt element and you also have 120 Volts. Watts divided by Volts will equal Amperage requirement so:
500/120= 4.16666666 amps.
As you can see the 25 amp SSR is more than enough to handle your heating requirement.
George
Forgive for jumping in...not meaning to highjack OP...just had a question George...the Inkbird I got came with the 40A SSR...if my requirements for amperage will be low do I need the smaller 25A or will the 40A still suffice either wired 120 or 240? Just figured it’s bigger it would still be ok but thought I’d check. Thanks for your videos btw I really enjoy them and are very helpful!
How much did you charge for labor? Thanks for your video!
We are a zero cost channel.
Barley and Hops Brewing so if someone comes up to you with a 4 PID system and asks you to wire it, you wouldn't charge them?
Oh, different question now. You asked how much did I charge for labor and I understood that to mean in the video. In the video there is no cost because I get to keep it. Now for others who would like for me to wire it is a different story.
It would all depend on what the requirements are.
George
George Duncan in the video you say, "this customer wants," so I assumed it wasnt for you. I'm installing a 4 PID system with indicator lights and switches, 3 elements, it's a complete kit. I just have to wire it. I dont know how much to charge I was going with $300. So I was just curious as to what YOU WOULD CHARGE. Sorry if it's a loaded question, I know there's alot of factors, just ballpark price.
Your figure sounds fair to me. When I build a basic controller I charge about $70 or so for assembly, testing and shipping.
Very economical as i don't make a living from this, it's just a side hobby I don't mind doing.
George
If I wanted to make a 220v model to run a 3000W element, what would I need to do differently? Great video as always George!
Make sure you have the wire to handle the amps. Wire it the same way but realize that you need a 240 V receptacle.
George
Thanks George! Also, is there a ground connected to the heater element? @@BarleyandHopsBrewing
Where do I get the box from?
Amazon
Yeah. I found one on there. Thanks man
Does your shop have this kit available
I do not sell kits. Sorry
Rather than buying a 12VDC power supply to run off 120VAC, it is cheaper to just buy a 120VAC muffin fan. Less wiring, fewer things to go wrong.
Sorry for the delayed response. I was on vacation in Vegas for the past 5 days.
Anything is possible. Most 120 V fans are a bit too larger. The cost of a transformer and a 12 or 5 volt DC fan still comes out less expensive.
Hope you had fun!
I am using a different box so that makes a difference. Yeah, price can be a bit different, but I still like 'KISS'. More parts means more opportunity for failures.
Thanks for the great videos!
I do not see a ITC-106 VA
Why did he use 14 gauge wire in one build and 12 in the other
Sellaseeus
The black part you dont know the name of and call a cord keeper in tne next video is called a gland
That one always trips me up. It has done so on other videos as well.
George
Part 2: th-cam.com/video/wHY4HJle0Ww/w-d-xo.html
The adorable gas initially branch because balloon covalently unlock during a easy greece. zesty, blushing blizzard
You should really take this video down (or correct it) before somebody gets killed. When giving instructions for wiring up the illuminated switch you say the top 2 are the 'hot' connections and the other one goes to ground. It doesn't go to ground, it goes to neutral. If it is connected to ground, at best, it will blow a fuse or trip, at worst, someone will get a (possibly lethal) shock. Further, when suggesting an alterative switch you show what we in the UK call a 'grid' switch. These are mainly used for lighting and are rated at 5 Amps. George, I am guessing that you are not a qualified electrician and, if I'm right, you really should NOT be giving advice on the use of mains electricity.
You are correct and that was my mistake. The single pole connection is for the neutral wire.
Do you endorse this pid method for running a smoker?