George, you speaking emulates what goes through my head when I do this stuff. The fact that you drop tools and struggle with wires turning your parts on their side, is EXACTLY how these go together. Truly love your presentation. Its real... Keep it real George.....
Excellent tutorial! You shouldn't apologise for going too slow, that's just what most people need! Me especially! But I found your explanations and instructions very easy to follow. I need to watch it several times to get it set right in my head tho! Thanks again, from the UK.
George you are the Man! I've learned and am learning so much from you. Thank you. When I'm done with this overseas assignment in 2023 I would love to come by and visit if that's OK. My home of record is in Bandera and I'm in Germany right now. I started watching you when the pandemic began and all the Ethanol went away in my region so I had to learn very quickly how to make a quality sanitizer for my Military community. These folks were spraying bleach all over the place. I constantly tell the wife "well George said". I have a background in Chemistry and I have to brief folks on various topics and what you say is spot on. You are an excellent instructor.
I have said this before and I say it again, George, you really are easy to listen to, and you give me a great deal of confidence, you are a remarkable teacher!
Hi George, I needed to build a coating curing oven. Everyone said use a PID controller...I didnt want to mess with that. I found your channel to see what this PID thing was all about. Wow, you are awesome, simplified the entire process...Thank you so very much!!! I am on my way to a great operating oven....
Thank you. I just joined the inlet neutral (white) and neutral to outlet at junction 2. Your tutorial helped no end and very wise repeating and explaining things well.
this was perfect exactly what I needed to hook up my PID thanks it was a pain trying to find anyone with the proper knowledge and instruction (with a good explanation) to make it work. just finished wiring it up last night thanks to you.
One wire goes from Mains 110/ 240V straight to your fan heater etc the other from mains to the PID and it switched on and off by the PID...The PID tells the controller when to switch on or off your Fan/heater.....Best video I have seen and no KRAP noise booming in the foreground
This video is exactly what i was looking for. I have a Masterbuilt smoker that had all dead controls. The individual parts would have been as much as a new smoker. This video helped walk me through making a better control system at much less than it would have cost to repair the original equipment. Thank you so very much. If i may offer a small bit of constructive feedback. It would be helpful if you a wiring diagram overlay somewhere throughout the video, it's also likely I just missed it. Either way thank you so very much. Great video.
without a doubt the best and easiest to follow tutorial on wiring up one of these common little devices. you pretty much made it as simple as it will ever get. great job! one thing though you should mention though is the differences of wiring colour around the world. my main and neutral wires are brown and blue not white and black like the USA leads. but obviously if you dont know this then you should probably leave it to an electrician.
I was absolutely impressed by your explanation and want to say thank you. I am trying to make a cooker that requires a specific temperature to operate with. Earlier I was using a ready made CTW thermostat controller; the kind that is used on pizza pans. however, I was not able to get the right operating temperature as it doesn't have a digital temperature setting dial. hence , while researching for a better temperature controller, I arrived on your You tube explanation which I found to be not only very easy to understand but also exactly what I wanted. I therefore owe you a million thanks. As mentioned by a fellow spectator, please do not apologize for repeating yourself. For a person like me even with a technical background, this is the kind of grass root explanation that I require to understand the fundamentals of how it works. Getachew
Always be safe George? Honestly mate when you were holding that pid with the hot connectors in your palm I thought I was watching Electroboom. Love ya man
I have always wondered why the Chinese who are obviously 'cleaver' at making these devices for 'peanuts' hardly ever supply a decent line drawing and further more that the terminal numbers match the line drawing. You are a gem when it comes to explaining these devices. I have sorted out quite a few faults in my time being a retired commercial heating engineer covering all fuels but I must say I always find it deplorable when good instructions are not given with any instrument that needs an explicit wiring diagram........ Very kind of you to give the excellent demo..... Can you believe how much these PID's cost? The postage seems to cost more than the controller!
Everyone should keep in mind, electrical code would say that needs to be on a 20A circuit as you can only load a circuit to 80%. It won't matter here but an inspector would be upset. Great video though! Very informative!
G’day George from ‘down under’ - pretty new to distilling and found your TH-cam channel - WOW ! So much great info - followed your videos step by step and built a PID - fantastic- works a treat! Have a great Christmas and have a great 2018
Thanks George - Great instructions on this controller and just what I was looking for. I went with a cheaper one this time. I like the InkBird but $40 wasn't in this budget build this time. I hope for $18 it lasts.
Very nice tutorial. I know next to nothing about PID controllers, but I need to get involved. So I'm looking for tutorials to help me learn and get started. I'm subscribing to your channel!
Very good. Here are two playlists of our PID tutorials. You may find what you need here. Feel free to ask questions. th-cam.com/video/En5Ewow4_tU/w-d-xo.html and also: th-cam.com/video/jze4LTONq8s/w-d-xo.html
I've been meaning to do this for years and after watching this vid I finally decided to pull the trigger. I just got a few of these and they work great, couple of gotchas though the instructions that came with mine are poorly translated and full of typos. It took me about 30 min and 4 or 5 youtube videos to figure out how to reverse the action (for keeping temp in a fridge). That being said for the money these cost it's well worth the investment. One other thing, be sure to get the heat sinks and use some thermal paste on them, the SSRs do generate a fair amount of heat when you have a load on them keeping them cool will extend their life significantly.
Thanks for this.. I fabricate car parts.. I'm not an electrician. I'm another one of the DIY powdercoat oven guys. I took a 4 drawer filing cabinet, fabricated a (110v) 1500W two-burner portable stovetop into the bottom and I'm running this C100. It's an ungrounded cooktop so I just replaced the receptical connections with the respective power cable wires. I wouldn't have gotten it right if I was left to my own devices.. lol Thanks again. Now its time to powdercoat some stuff bigger than the inside of a toaster oven.. ;)
Thanks for this video!! Exactly what I needed to wire my PID to the SSR. Their almost all wired up now except for half of the one. I ran out of wire. :-) Great video. Now I need to know how to wire the 22mm push button so it switchces the element on and off.
Concerning this PID with SSR... if I have a 10kw heating element, is there any way to decrease the frequency of the signal from the PID sent to the SSR before limiting my heating element to 9kw? For example, is there an option in the menu that allows 90% of the signal sent to the SSR instead of 100%? That would solve my problem.
What an incredible video! You are the only person on youtube that shows the set up with such ease and detail. I really want to thank you for that. Could i please ask you one question? My brew kettle is 220v. Would you be so kind to tell me how you set it up for my bigger heating element.
By the way there is no reference to the heat sink..... Please can you say if the heat sink is crucial when the relay is fed by 110v and the controller is controlling at 200C. I would appreciate your help. I could check the temp as I have a laser thermometer if it is used without a heat sink. I've not got much room to fit a heat sink but if it's essential I could with difficulty fit it.
hi i am from holland and wach your videos and you say you have to be carefull that the pot dont have a leak so vaper dont get out but the spirel from a boiler when you put it on can get red hot cant that not ge a problem to put that inside a pot ?
Correction- Type K thermocouples don't "measure resistance" but rather they generate a small voltage as a result of dissimilar metals attached at a junction at the end of the probe. Temperature changes, increases/decreases, causes this voltage to vary in magnitude. The voltage variation is sensed by the instrument and converted to a display of temperature using an algorithm that interpolates the small non-linear changes in voltages to temperature. There's a reason that a polarity is assigned to the TC probe terminals and that is because, as I said, the K type (and others) thermocouples generate voltage.
I am trying to wire up a simple heating element for my electric smoker with this PID controller. I need to know how you wire it up. Also, was wondering if the SSR you are using is AC-AC or a DC input and AC output. I cant get the SSR to turn on coming from the PID only. Not unless I add in a DC power supply.
If your SSR is a DA it requires DC as a signal to operate an AC voltage. If it is an AA then it requires an AC signal for an AC voltage. PIDs normally use the DA.
I have an old Satellite kiln that I upgrade to digital, and recently the SSR was burned, now I order another SSR 40A, and I, going to wire with high temperature insulated coated wire, and the wires4 and 5 just regular and probably smaller gauge wire do you think is a good idea?
hi I like your explanation on the use of PID, I am just asking can I use this device as in incubator controller, and can it help in controlling the turning of the motor that used to turn the egg tray?
Great video, question, you have a hot, neutral and ground running down the table to the floor you did not touch on. Where are these wires going? I would think the circuit breaker but i may be wrong.
Hello, where I live, in Argentina, we have 220V between lines and a neutral, therefor between both hotlines we achieve 380V. I’d like to know if it’s feasible to connect the element between bothhot lines to get mor power. If so, in which PID’s terminals should I connect them. Thanks!! F
Question? I only have a 110/15amp plug right now. If I bought the PID and the 40amp SSR and used it with a 1500w element with my current 110v plug. Wired it using 220/30amp gauge wire. Would it work just under 110v? Then in the future when I upgrade to 220v all I would have to do is upgrade my element and plug it into 220? Kinda future proof it if I want to go bigger.
I have a berme rex c100. With the pins? I have 1,2, 3 and 4. no 5? but looks like 3 and 5 are the same?also missing the alarms. and number 8. Hooking up 300watt , cylinder mold heater to it. Very good video, thanks you. I will be doing it this weekend.
Great video and very helpful. Just a word of advice, considering you're plugging the PID system into a 15 amp circuit (that uses 14awg wire from the main breaker), using 12awg wire for your PID system is redundant. Also 120v heating elements are extremely inefficient and I would highly recommend using a 240v one.
if i want to set the PID in heating mode are we suposed to switch the relay pin? instead of the pin 4 5 you have to use the 3 + ? instead of the pin 4 5 ? i have to test with one invert the signal Edit1 1 week later: 16:20 got my anwser
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing same as in the video and just re wacthed the video at 16:20 you said it lol since i am about to atempt to wire it now xD for some reason i didn't get any alert for your reply but thanks for your help and video :D
but do you know what happen if you plug the DC signal backward on the relay ? will it blow up? if after you pluged it back ward and did an on/off switch and then you plug properly will it still work can't find anwser on google X_X
Hi George, thanks for easy to follow tutorial, i follow your instruction and my PID and SSR works, but why is the lamp is not turn off when it reaching the temperature I set up ? I setup to 45 degree, when it go beyond 45, the lamp is turning on but when it below 45 the lamp is blinking only, I want the lamp is turn off when it go above 45 and turn on if it below 45, what else should i set to do that ? thanks for your help..
very well done, I really like the plug idea. I did the same thing but with 220 bit my experience wasn't as effortless as yours seem to be. keep up the good work
Such an awesome video thank you. I'm also wiring up a heat treat oven and I dont quite understand the purpose of wiring to the receptacle? I need to hook it up to a heating element and dont quite understand this part
2 relay maybe ? test if the relay set in parralle switch on and then i guess wire the 2 relay to a separate wall plug ? in and out ? differant breaker for input and another female plug for output ? do it at your own risk i never actualy played with house electricity
Thanks for the great video. If measuring ambient air temp in an oven, which style thermo would be required? I assume the k style is designed to be immersed..
Hey george, i found out instead of wiring in the light seperate, you can also use an extension cord with a lighted end for the heater element cable, so it will blink on and off when its receiving power.
Can a PID controller be programmed to adjust the ramping rate (e.g., 5 degrees C/min, 20 degC/min, etc.) from an ambient temperature of 25 degC to 600 degC?
In the vid it looked like you hooked up the thermal coupler leads backwards.. does that make a difference?? Or is the red negative and blue positive?? Thanks good vid..
Different makers have them wired both ways so you need to check while assembling it. If they are backwards the PID will read backwards as well. Color code for some manufacturers obviously means nothing.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing ok thanks.. I have the rex-c100 seams to be working but when the out put light comes on ( SSR ) my PV goes crazy.. sometimes the display for PV and SV even looks like when power on...
Well, from what you are telling me it seems as though the out put light comes on which means the element is now working and applying heat. The PV (process value or perceived temperature) starts to change. Where is the problem? It should do that since it is sensing a change in temperature. George
Great video. Made it easy for a dummy like me. My controller is used in a powder coat owen. I am experiencing problems with the PV exceeding the SV. I had SV set at 200 degrees celsius, but PV rose to 240 degrees, and heating elements was still red hot, full power...... Any ideas how to sort this? I have a second Breme REX C100 supposed to be used in a beer boiler, but not keen on using that if I can't control the temerature with it...
You need to go into se setings by pressing the SET button for 5 seconds and and then swith off 'P'. Not the expert myself but play around with settings and you will find how to get it to stop heating once it reaches the set temp.
Could be a simple wiring mistake. Look at the SSR and see if the red light switches on when the PID trips to activate the element. If this does not happen you probably have the wires on pin 3,4 of the SSR backwards. These are polarity specific.
I purchased this exact same PID controller I figure the alarm goes on screw pins 6 and 7 but what do you use for the alarm sound? Can I just use a 8 ohm tweeter driver? and just attach it to the two pins?
Wonderful, clear and concise tutorial. There is just one thing I may have missed. Where does the heating element fit into this circuit? I'm currently building a heat treat oven. Thanks from the UK.
Barley and Hops Brewing Thank you George. Greatly appreciated. How do you find the rex-c100? I've read mixed reviews, some say it won't drive the SSR! Thanks again, Matt
Barley & Hop's What do you know about a high powered silicone controlled rectifier or a Thirister? and can it be used in conjunction with a PID controller?
Hi there George. Just wondering why on post 5 which you said was negative you used black cable and post 4 which you said was positive white. I'm from the UK, so I had to google American electrical cable colour.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing thanks for getting back to me , I've found one that you did with an inkbird so I'll try with some of the settings from that video. Which pid would you recommend ? And when testing the ssr when it has reached temp or gone over temp it goes open circuit which I expect to happen but on a closed circuit condition is it supposed to read 100v when the input voltage is 240v?
Hi George I've just tested it with my beer keg still and tested it on just water and to get it to go I had to switch it off then back on again a few times then all of a sudden it stayed on and worked so your right they are unreliable I also noticed the temp in the head stayed at 40 degrees until I loosened the tri-clamp and tilted it and then the temp started to climb haven't got a clue what could have caused the problem as I didn't have a blockage . I'm looking forward though to some of the spirits you have done in your other videos .
George I do have a question I’m wiring up a 120v PID and I want to make sure I have it setup right I have a 4 prong lighted switch for power on/off do you think I should add a Fuze to protect my PID it’s a pretty expensive one it’s a Auber I just don’t want to fry it it’s hooked up to a 20amp breaker is there anyway I can send you pictures so you can check out the setup and see if it’s wired right??
If I'm understanding this all correctly; You plug the heating element into the socket hooked up to the PID and you're pretty much set to go once you set the temp? Where is the best place to install the sensor on the still?
+Barley and Hops Brewing LLC thank you! I think I have it now. I was going to order a heat controller but think I'll make one myself. Will a 1500w element on 120v be sufficient for an 8 gallon kettle? I've learned a great deal from your videos. They're fantastic. Thank you
Just for the record, a thermocouple is not a resistance device, it is a voltage-inducing device. The PID actually senses the voltage produced by the dissimilar metal contact thermocouple. Dissimilar metals (if you know about plumbing which will corrode over time, such as a brass fitting on an iron pipe). The metal corrosion is a result of electron flow. This happens because any ambient heat in the atmosphere here on earth will be converted into an electrical voltage by the dissimilar metal contact point. A thermocouple is actually an electrical generator with the voltage directly related to presence of heat. It takes advantage of this phenomenon when used as a temperature sensor. The controller can put this voltage through a meter that can be marked for a temperature scale. The thermocouple isn't a very efficient generator so it's not used for any practical use other than as a temp sensor since it reliably and predictably varies in voltage output based on its temperature. It is true also that the conductivity of a wire will vary with its temperature, but that's not a thermocouple and is used in a very different manner.
George, you speaking emulates what goes through my head when I do this stuff. The fact that you drop tools and struggle with wires turning your parts on their side, is EXACTLY how these go together. Truly love your presentation. Its real... Keep it real George.....
I just spoke to Mr.George today, on a Sunday at that and I have to say he is one of the nicest guys you will ever speak with. Thanks a bunch.
It was my pleasure speaking with you.
George
Brother you really helped me with my pid your super easy to understand thanks a million
Excellent tutorial! You shouldn't apologise for going too slow, that's just what most people need! Me especially! But I found your explanations and instructions very easy to follow. I need to watch it several times to get it set right in my head tho! Thanks again, from the UK.
Anytime
George
Me TOO!!! I think you do GREAT
George you are the Man! I've learned and am learning so much from you. Thank you. When I'm done with this overseas assignment in 2023 I would love to come by and visit if that's OK. My home of record is in Bandera and I'm in Germany right now. I started watching you when the pandemic began and all the Ethanol went away in my region so I had to learn very quickly how to make a quality sanitizer for my Military community. These folks were spraying bleach all over the place. I constantly tell the wife "well George said". I have a background in Chemistry and I have to brief folks on various topics and what you say is spot on. You are an excellent instructor.
I have said this before and I say it again, George, you really are easy to listen to, and you give me a great deal of confidence, you are a remarkable teacher!
ABSOLUTLY.....i 2nd that ,.....his teaching/communication skills are outstanding
I put the PID CONTROLLER in a PVC Pipe 4-in x 4-in diameter at a 45° sewer pipe. Think round outside of the box. Best diy videos!
Hi George, I needed to build a coating curing oven. Everyone said use a PID controller...I didnt want to mess with that. I found your channel to see what this PID thing was all about. Wow, you are awesome, simplified the entire process...Thank you so very much!!! I am on my way to a great operating oven....
Thank you. I just joined the inlet neutral (white) and neutral to outlet at junction 2. Your tutorial helped no end and very wise repeating and explaining things well.
this was perfect exactly what I needed to hook up my PID thanks it was a pain trying to find anyone with the proper knowledge and instruction (with a good explanation) to make it work. just finished wiring it up last night thanks to you.
One wire goes from Mains 110/ 240V straight to your fan heater etc the other from mains to the PID and it switched on and off by the PID...The PID tells the controller when to switch on or off your Fan/heater.....Best video I have seen and no KRAP noise booming in the foreground
That was a great presentation George, you are a natural born teacher and I am a subscriber.
Hello Mr. I'm finishing right now my plastic injection machine. This tutorial was incredible useful to me. Thank you so much.
This video is exactly what i was looking for. I have a Masterbuilt smoker that had all dead controls. The individual parts would have been as much as a new smoker. This video helped walk me through making a better control system at much less than it would have cost to repair the original equipment. Thank you so very much. If i may offer a small bit of constructive feedback. It would be helpful if you a wiring diagram overlay somewhere throughout the video, it's also likely I just missed it. Either way thank you so very much. Great video.
without a doubt the best and easiest to follow tutorial on wiring up one of these common little devices. you pretty much made it as simple as it will ever get. great job! one thing though you should mention though is the differences of wiring colour around the world. my main and neutral wires are brown and blue not white and black like the USA leads. but obviously if you dont know this then you should probably leave it to an electrician.
I appreciate your boldness and thoroughness in making this tutorial
I normally hate lengthy videos, but you did an awesome job of explaining everything. Thanks so much!
I was absolutely impressed by your explanation and want to say thank you. I am trying to make a cooker that requires a specific temperature to operate with. Earlier I was using a ready made CTW thermostat controller; the kind that is used on pizza pans. however, I was not able to get the right operating temperature as it doesn't have a digital temperature setting dial. hence , while researching for a better temperature controller, I arrived on your You tube explanation which I found to be not only very easy to understand but also exactly what I wanted. I therefore owe you a million thanks.
As mentioned by a fellow spectator, please do not apologize for repeating yourself. For a person like me even with a technical background, this is the kind of grass root explanation that I require to understand the fundamentals of how it works.
Getachew
Very good video. Just what I was looking for! I liked the pace you explained it, it made it a lot easier to follow. I will be connecting my pid today.
Always be safe George? Honestly mate when you were holding that pid with the hot connectors in your palm I thought I was watching Electroboom. Love ya man
I have always wondered why the Chinese who are obviously 'cleaver' at making these devices for 'peanuts' hardly ever supply a decent line drawing and further more that the terminal numbers match the line drawing.
You are a gem when it comes to explaining these devices.
I have sorted out quite a few faults in my time being a retired commercial heating engineer covering all fuels but I must say I always find it deplorable when good instructions are not given with any instrument that needs an explicit wiring diagram........ Very kind of you to give the excellent demo..... Can you believe how much these PID's cost?
The postage seems to cost more than the controller!
Everyone should keep in mind, electrical code would say that needs to be on a 20A circuit as you can only load a circuit to 80%. It won't matter here but an inspector would be upset. Great video though! Very informative!
G’day George from ‘down under’ - pretty new to distilling and found your TH-cam channel - WOW ! So much great info - followed your videos step by step and built a PID - fantastic- works a treat!
Have a great Christmas and have a great 2018
This is one of the best diy videos I've seen. Very well done, and very appreciated.
Thank you, wired my first PID controller with plug and works like a charm👍. Tried it on my kettle.
Thanks George - Great instructions on this controller and just what I was looking for. I went with a cheaper one this time. I like the InkBird but $40 wasn't in this budget build this time. I hope for $18 it lasts.
Excellent video. Needed to make my own DIY Sou vide setup, couldn't find any till I got to your video. Thanks mate.
George, great presentation. Thanks for taking this hobby to a professional level.
Very nice tutorial. I know next to nothing about PID controllers, but I need to get involved. So I'm looking for tutorials to help me learn and get started. I'm subscribing to your channel!
Very good. Here are two playlists of our PID tutorials. You may find what you need here. Feel free to ask questions.
th-cam.com/video/En5Ewow4_tU/w-d-xo.html
and also:
th-cam.com/video/jze4LTONq8s/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much for the help when I called. You are amazing!
Any time. We are here to help in any way we can.
George
You really saved my butt with this video George!
Thank you. I avoided reading the instructions. Much appreciated.
Excellent tutorial! Great instructions on this controller Thanks
I've been meaning to do this for years and after watching this vid I finally decided to pull the trigger. I just got a few of these and they work great, couple of gotchas though the instructions that came with mine are poorly translated and full of typos. It took me about 30 min and 4 or 5 youtube videos to figure out how to reverse the action (for keeping temp in a fridge). That being said for the money these cost it's well worth the investment. One other thing, be sure to get the heat sinks and use some thermal paste on them, the SSRs do generate a fair amount of heat when you have a load on them keeping them cool will extend their life significantly.
Awesome
Thank you very much for this, other tutorials were very vague about the specifics, you've saved me a lot of time
Thanks for this.. I fabricate car parts.. I'm not an electrician. I'm another one of the DIY powdercoat oven guys. I took a 4 drawer filing cabinet, fabricated a (110v) 1500W two-burner portable stovetop into the bottom and I'm running this C100.
It's an ungrounded cooktop so I just replaced the receptical connections with the respective power cable wires. I wouldn't have gotten it right if I was left to my own devices.. lol
Thanks again. Now its time to powdercoat some stuff bigger than the inside of a toaster oven.. ;)
Thanks for this video!! Exactly what I needed to wire my PID to the SSR. Their almost all wired up now except for half of the one. I ran out of wire. :-) Great video. Now I need to know how to wire the 22mm push button so it switchces the element on and off.
Awesome
Thanks for all your help on wiring , works great as it should.😁
Sir big Solute:
Awesome video as an engineer I never see such a great explanation,
Nice effort.
Fantastic video, very easy to follow your explanation. Thanks!
Great lesson...with thanks from Australia
Thank you so much! PID controlers are awesome!
I just like your style in the way you explain things so I subscribed... Cant wait to watch more vids! thanks!
Thank you for this video. Very helpful!
Would it be beneficial to add a 10A fuse and a 15A LED switch between the power source and the SSR input #1?
Very good presentation I have one question where do my heating band wires get attached?
Concerning this PID with SSR... if I have a 10kw heating element, is there any way to decrease the frequency of the signal from the PID sent to the SSR before limiting my heating element to 9kw? For example, is there an option in the menu that allows 90% of the signal sent to the SSR instead of 100%? That would solve my problem.
Hi George, I noticed that you don’t put any heat paste or a gap pad on the SSR, will the thermal transfer be good enough to the heats ink?
Hey thanks, i just wired up my PID using this guide and im watching the temp rise right now. Thanks!
Let me know if you need anything or any help. These things are great
George
What an incredible video! You are the only person on youtube that shows the set up with such ease and detail. I really want to thank you for that. Could i please ask you one question? My brew kettle is 220v. Would you be so kind to tell me how you set it up for my bigger heating element.
By the way there is no reference to the heat sink..... Please can you say if the heat sink is crucial when the relay is fed by 110v and the controller is controlling at 200C. I would appreciate your help. I could check the temp as I have a laser thermometer if it is used without a heat sink. I've not got much room to fit a heat sink but if it's essential I could with difficulty fit it.
hi i am from holland and wach your videos and you say you have to be carefull that the pot dont have a leak so vaper dont get out but the spirel from a boiler when you put it on can get red hot cant that not ge a problem to put that inside a pot ?
hello - does the PID goes back to the selected temperature after losing power?
What is the work around option if you buy a relay output pid controller instead of a ssr output pid controller ?
Correction- Type K thermocouples don't "measure resistance" but rather they generate a small voltage as a result of dissimilar metals attached at a junction at the end of the probe.
Temperature changes, increases/decreases, causes this voltage to vary in magnitude. The voltage variation is sensed by the instrument and converted to a display of temperature using an algorithm that interpolates the small non-linear changes in voltages to temperature.
There's a reason that a polarity is assigned to the TC probe terminals and that is because, as I said, the K type (and others) thermocouples generate voltage.
Very true. Thanks
This helps so much! Super simple! This also made me subscribe. Thanks again!!!
Did you have a product list in one of these videos?
I am trying to wire up a simple heating element for my electric smoker with this PID controller. I need to know how you wire it up. Also, was wondering if the SSR you are using is AC-AC or a DC input and AC output. I cant get the SSR to turn on coming from the PID only. Not unless I add in a DC power supply.
If your SSR is a DA it requires DC as a signal to operate an AC voltage. If it is an AA then it requires an AC signal for an AC voltage. PIDs normally use the DA.
thanks, george, great help by phone fast pick up and with great concern
I have an old Satellite kiln that I upgrade to digital, and recently the SSR was burned, now I order another SSR 40A, and I, going to wire with high temperature insulated coated wire, and the wires4 and 5 just regular and probably smaller gauge wire do you think is a good idea?
hi I like your explanation on the use of PID, I am just asking can I use this device as in incubator controller, and can it help in controlling the turning of the motor that used to turn the egg tray?
Great video, question, you have a hot, neutral and ground running down the table to the floor you did not touch on. Where are these wires going? I would think the circuit breaker but i may be wrong.
What size are the fork connectors going into the screws of the pid controller?
Hello, where I live, in Argentina, we have 220V between lines and a neutral, therefor between both hotlines we achieve 380V.
I’d like to know if it’s feasible to connect the element between bothhot lines to get mor power. If so, in which PID’s terminals should I connect them.
Thanks!!
F
Question? I only have a 110/15amp plug right now. If I bought the PID and the 40amp SSR and used it with a 1500w element with my current 110v plug. Wired it using 220/30amp gauge wire. Would it work just under 110v? Then in the future when I upgrade to 220v all I would have to do is upgrade my element and plug it into 220? Kinda future proof it if I want to go bigger.
Sure
Thx for the detailed video, I am setting up an injection machine and was not sure how to wire it up... Thx again
I have a berme rex c100. With the pins? I have 1,2, 3 and 4. no 5? but looks like 3 and 5 are the same?also missing the alarms. and number 8. Hooking up 300watt , cylinder mold heater to it. Very good video, thanks you. I will be doing it this weekend.
Great video and very helpful. Just a word of advice, considering you're plugging the PID system into a 15 amp circuit (that uses 14awg wire from the main breaker), using 12awg wire for your PID system is redundant. Also 120v heating elements are extremely inefficient and I would highly recommend using a 240v one.
if i want to set the PID in heating mode are we suposed to switch the relay pin?
instead of the pin 4 5 you have to use the 3 + ? instead of the pin 4 5 ? i have to test with one invert the signal
Edit1 1 week later: 16:20 got my anwser
What type of PID are you setting?
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing same as in the video and just re wacthed the video at 16:20 you said it lol since i am about to atempt to wire it now xD
for some reason i didn't get any alert for your reply but thanks for your help and video :D
but do you know what happen if you plug the DC signal backward on the relay ? will it blow up? if after you pluged it back ward and did an on/off switch and then you plug properly will it still work
can't find anwser on google X_X
Hi George, thanks for easy to follow tutorial, i follow your instruction and my PID and SSR works, but why is the lamp is not turn off when it reaching the temperature I set up ? I setup to 45 degree, when it go beyond 45, the lamp is turning on but when it below 45 the lamp is blinking only, I want the lamp is turn off when it go above 45 and turn on if it below 45, what else should i set to do that ? thanks for your help..
You have it set to cooling instead of heating.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing yes you are right, I'd change SL6 parameter value, and now it's ok, thanks for the tutorial, you save may life :)
does the PID output DC to pins 3-4 on the SSR? IF so which REX C100 PID did you buy?
got one for ya, temp difference of ssr? with and without a fan in the controller box.?
very well done, I really like the plug idea. I did the same thing but with 220 bit my experience wasn't as effortless as yours seem to be. keep up the good work
Such an awesome video thank you. I'm also wiring up a heat treat oven and I dont quite understand the purpose of wiring to the receptacle? I need to hook it up to a heating element and dont quite understand this part
Justin, you can wire it straight to the element. Most of us use a receptacle for convenience.
Barley and Hops Brewing ok I will try that. Gotta get a new ssr, just fried mine lol
It happens. 👍
Excellent tutorial! How I add shutoff timer to this and wich one. Thanks fore all your help
sir i need to control a drive with pid controler honeywell 1040 pid
How would you wire 2 120v 1500w elements in parallel with 2 pumps with a main switch and switch for each pump and element
2 relay maybe ? test if the relay set in parralle switch on and then i guess wire the 2 relay to a separate wall plug ? in and out ? differant breaker for input and another female plug for output ?
do it at your own risk i never actualy played with house electricity
Thanks for the great video. If measuring ambient air temp in an oven, which style thermo would be required? I assume the k style is designed to be immersed..
The K-type can sense temperature either way.
Barley and Hops Brewing thanks.
Thank you sir. You may have just very well saved my life :)
Excellent video!! But, if I want to connect an alarm? I connect that directly to the PID?
unfortunately my dryer plug-in is a 4-prong. Does anybody know if there's a video showing how to wire a PID when you have four wires?
Excellent tutorial. I realize this has been out for some time, however, if you are still checking this, where do you buy your relays from?
I have several sources. Mostly factory direct.
Hey george, i found out instead of wiring in the light seperate, you can also use an extension cord with a lighted end for the heater element cable, so it will blink on and off when its receiving power.
Thanks for the video, for those that learn by hands on this is absolutely perfect
Can a PID controller be programmed to adjust the ramping rate (e.g., 5 degrees C/min, 20 degC/min, etc.) from an ambient temperature of 25 degC to 600 degC?
In the vid it looked like you hooked up the thermal coupler leads backwards.. does that make a difference?? Or is the red negative and blue positive?? Thanks good vid..
Different makers have them wired both ways so you need to check while assembling it. If they are backwards the PID will read backwards as well.
Color code for some manufacturers obviously means nothing.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing ok thanks.. I have the rex-c100 seams to be working but when the out put light comes on ( SSR ) my PV goes crazy.. sometimes the display for PV and SV even looks like when power on...
Well, from what you are telling me it seems as though the out put light comes on which means the element is now working and applying heat. The PV (process value or perceived temperature) starts to change. Where is the problem?
It should do that since it is sensing a change in temperature.
George
Do you have a full written plan on how you can set up the PID? Thank you, Great videos!
Great video. Made it easy for a dummy like me. My controller is used in a powder coat owen. I am experiencing problems with the PV exceeding the SV. I had SV set at 200 degrees celsius, but PV rose to 240 degrees, and heating elements was still red hot, full power...... Any ideas how to sort this? I have a second Breme REX C100 supposed to be used in a beer boiler, but not keen on using that if I can't control the temerature with it...
You need to go into se setings by pressing the SET button for 5 seconds and and then swith off 'P'. Not the expert myself but play around with settings and you will find how to get it to stop heating once it reaches the set temp.
thank you very much for the video sir i followed all the instructions but my heating element wont turn on what could be the problem
Could be a simple wiring mistake. Look at the SSR and see if the red light switches on when the PID trips to activate the element. If this does not happen you probably have the wires on pin 3,4 of the SSR backwards. These are polarity specific.
I purchased this exact same PID controller I figure the alarm goes on screw pins 6 and 7 but what do you use for the alarm sound? Can I just use a 8 ohm tweeter driver? and just attach it to the two pins?
Wonderful, clear and concise tutorial. There is just one thing I may have missed. Where does the heating element fit into this circuit? I'm currently building a heat treat oven. Thanks from the UK.
It goes in the oven and connected to pins 1,2 on the solid state relay.
George
Barley and Hops Brewing Thank you George. Greatly appreciated. How do you find the rex-c100? I've read mixed reviews, some say it won't drive the SSR! Thanks again, Matt
I am not a big fan of the Rex C-100. I prefer the Mypin TA series or the Inkbird ITC 106-VH model.
George
Barley and Hops Brewing great! Thanks George.
Thank you for your effort. I was skipping around the video and I couldn't find where you attached the ground. Please let me know.
Barley & Hop's What do you know about a high powered silicone controlled rectifier or a Thirister? and can it be used in conjunction with a PID controller?
Do they offer one to control air pressure? For a air compressor
Hi there George. Just wondering why on post 5 which you said was negative you used black cable and post 4 which you said was positive white. I'm from the UK, so I had to google American electrical cable colour.
Hi George great tutorial , have you got any tutorials on programming the rex-c100 at all many thanks
I have not done one on that model for several reasons. Mostly because it is unreliable. Sorry.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing thanks for getting back to me , I've found one that you did with an inkbird so I'll try with some of the settings from that video. Which pid would you recommend ? And when testing the ssr when it has reached temp or gone over temp it goes open circuit which I expect to happen but on a closed circuit condition is it supposed to read 100v when the input voltage is 240v?
It may since the PID controls the amount of power provided to the element.
Hi George
I've just tested it with my beer keg still and tested it on just water and to get it to go I had to switch it off then back on again a few times then all of a sudden it stayed on and worked so your right they are unreliable I also noticed the temp in the head stayed at 40 degrees until I loosened the tri-clamp and tilted it and then the temp started to climb haven't got a clue what could have caused the problem as I didn't have a blockage . I'm looking forward though to some of the spirits you have done in your other videos .
George I do have a question I’m wiring up a 120v PID and I want to make sure I have it setup right I have a 4 prong lighted switch for power on/off do you think I should add a Fuze to protect my PID it’s a pretty expensive one it’s a Auber I just don’t want to fry it it’s hooked up to a 20amp breaker is there anyway I can send you pictures so you can check out the setup and see if it’s wired right??
If I'm understanding this all correctly; You plug the heating element into the socket hooked up to the PID and you're pretty much set to go once you set the temp? Where is the best place to install the sensor on the still?
The only place to put it is in the head (the highest point in the column where the vapor passes to the condenser).
George
+Barley and Hops Brewing LLC thank you! I think I have it now. I was going to order a heat controller but think I'll make one myself. Will a 1500w element on 120v be sufficient for an 8 gallon kettle? I've learned a great deal from your videos. They're fantastic. Thank you
Yes. The 1500 watt band is perfect for the 8 gallon kettle.
Won't that constant off and on cycle shorten the heating element life?
Just for the record, a thermocouple is not a resistance device, it is a voltage-inducing device. The PID actually senses the voltage produced by the dissimilar metal contact thermocouple. Dissimilar metals (if you know about plumbing which will corrode over time, such as a brass fitting on an iron pipe). The metal corrosion is a result of electron flow. This happens because any ambient heat in the atmosphere here on earth will be converted into an electrical voltage by the dissimilar metal contact point. A thermocouple is actually an electrical generator with the voltage directly related to presence of heat. It takes advantage of this phenomenon when used as a temperature sensor. The controller can put this voltage through a meter that can be marked for a temperature scale. The thermocouple isn't a very efficient generator so it's not used for any practical use other than as a temp sensor since it reliably and predictably varies in voltage output based on its temperature. It is true also that the conductivity of a wire will vary with its temperature, but that's not a thermocouple and is used in a very different manner.
Thanks Dave. I appreciate it and will try to incorporate this in the future.