I have said this before, and I will say it again. I totally do not get the arguing that PID’s generate. It’s simple people. Try one. If you like it use it. If you don’t like it, don’t use it. The only conclusion that I can come to is there are people with absolutely nothing better to do than argue, insult and cut others down. Just pisses me off to no end. George, don’t let these people get you down! Keep producing these wonderful and desperately needed videos. Until next time. Love ya man...
There is a hilarious video of two dogs growling and snarling at each other, with a gate between them. Someone presses a button, the gate opens, and the dogs just look at each other like nothing is wrong. They close the gate, and they go crazy at each other. Gate opens again, and it's like they are best friends. In the comments someone mentions, humans have that same fence, and it's called social media. That pretty much sums it up :)
I am considering using a third heating element, and then using an Adjustable speed drive. This will give me a PID controlled PWM output. The PID will produce a variable voltage PWM output to my heater elements. The variable will be voltage not time.
@@magnuspym If the On/Off pulses are timed right an effective sine wave can be created. The average voltage over time can be controlled along with the effective frequency of the sine wave. Mostly the PID controller is what would be controlling the On/Off pulses of the PWM. The only issue is that 3 heater elements of matched resistance/impedance would need to be used.
I knew it was only a matter of time that you would chime in on this subject. I love the PID for the shear fact that I'm not constantly chasing a gradual temperature increase for 6 or 8 hours with a propane burner. This device has been a game changer! Thanks for the "George" built PID. 👏👏👏
I built my pid enclosure watching one of georges videos im using a 30 amp breaker running a 5500w heating element On a 13 gallon pot this thing works great ive used a stove and propane I will never go back i will only use i pid from here on out Thank you george for all you do for us
Been using a PID on a keg pot since first watching you and I love it. I can run for hours at 175° pulling 160-170P with no problems. Too each his/her own. My vote is PID
Hi George. I I am new to this and let me tell you one thing, THANK YOU for all the detailed and very informative info in all your you tube video's . I have built one and works perfectly. I think what most misunderstand is that even though there might be amperage spikes in the beginning, that it being imputed into am medium that that reacts slower to the initial impulse and therefore creates a smooth increase in temp rise and control. Wonderful piece of equipment which functions on a closed loop system and brilliant results from it. Thank you for all the time and effort you put in
Built a PID and it works perfect on a 35L pot with 3" bubble plate reflux column, it holds my take off temp very stable and makes the process so easy and accurate. Thanks for all the info George great explanations.
Just completed a control box for temperature and cooling water control from everything I learned watching your videos. Output is a dual 20a outlet with an Inkbird 106 PID on the top plug and a PWM on the bottom. Great videos, thanks George
I built a controller, as George instructed. It works flawlessly on my unit. I follow his other videos using the temperatures he recommends, based on the science behind it. Simple, works, great results.
I’ve used these for 40 years in my past profession. They made life at work so much easier and when coupled to a computer you can trend those temps. Great great videos George
I'm a noob in the hobby and I love my PID . I set at 150 degrees and once there turn to manual and set at 27 % power and run nice and slow . I also want to add between you George ,Jesse from #stillit and #beardedandbored you all have help me tremendously in starting this hobby and actually becoming successful. Thanks to all three of you guys. Happy Distilling ! 😁
Just finished my 4500w unit with 110v to run my pump too. George you are the man!! I'm no electrician but his videos made it easy. Everything worked on the first try! I read a bunch of people saying you can't use it but I think that's bc they don't want to admit you can use technology to make it easier 🤷🏼♂️. Worst case you throw it in manual mode and then you have 0-100% by 1% increment. Little easier than guessing on a dial I think.
Imagine that you are driving your car and you are on a red traffic light waiting for the light to turn to green! and than it turns to green and your goal is to reach 100km/h speed on the road. You push the gas pedal and feed your engine with alot of gas to speed up from 0 to 100km/h and when you reach your target speed, you slowly pull your foot off the gas pedal and try to maintain the right amount of gas to feed into your engine that will make the car go at 100km/h, not lsower not faster 100.00km/h. That's waht exactly a PID controller does. It makes your life easier in a very efficient way. 2 birds down with 1 stone. Sweet video Geroge.
Great analogy. Most people will understand that concept if the drive a car. The cruise control on your car works the same as a PID by adjusting the amount of pedal (gas) to maintain the set value of speed. Nice!
Biggest project I ever worked on cost almost a billion dollars to build. Put simply PID control is what tells the thrusters how much to thrust, at what angle to thrust so we can achieved a desired set point or position. I will be choosing PID control when I finally build my set up.
George, I want to thank you for your earlier videos on making a PID controller set up. I built one that worked fairly well, but I wanted to add some features to it. I rebuilt it and now also use if for temp control on my lead melting pots. I just change the thermocouple out.
I built my PID setup based on your description. I have a water boiler with the sensor next to the heating element in the bottom. And I use it for everything: Heating water, Sous Vide, beer making and so on. I get a more precise reading/heating when using a PID and measure the temperature where it matters.
Good afternoon Geo, I used my PID yesterday and also framed in a pool deck, worked great just as advertised! Wife happy me happy! 2 birds yesterday George. A must have tool.
George, my PID works great due to your videos and explanations given in those videos. Thanks for your time an effort making these instructional videos. Priceless.
I don't have a PID controller, but I do under stand that it would free up my hands a little bit to do other things. Anything that makes my process less stressful or just more enjoyable is a good thing.
I just found your channel last night with "Parts list and decription for PID controller Part 1". It's fantastic information and I'm looking forward to digging into your information further. So far that one video was more helpful than others when researching upgrading my smoker to reach higher temps and be more controllable.
Great info George! I have one of your units and one I built myself. I like the PID and it works well. I also use cruder controls that take some experimentation and more constant attention. You really just have to get some experience and knowledge and they all work, with varying levels of control and necessary attention. If you are working without a PID, YOU have to do the work the PID can do. Used as a temperature controller for fermentation with a heat belt, I can hold a lot more constant temperature than I can with a sort of max/min sensor that would turn the heat belt all the way on when the temperature drops below the min setting, and off when it gets to the max temp. A PID will be working constantly to hold my desired temperature. Oh and for the record, I am always right and those who disagree are always wrong. Just wanted to get that established. Please dont tell my wife I said this. She does not like it.
George, I love your videos! I just wanted to say, when I was younger I guess I was a PID haha. I just tended fire and did what I was instructed to do. Thanks for making all of this hobby so easy to understand.
This concise practical tutorial is superior to what some uni teach to their students. I wish we could get a c program sample for the nerd to see what really happened inside the PID box.
You need to be aware that a thermocouple doesn't give an absolute temperature, rather it reacts to the difference in temperature between the sensing end where the wires are connected and the "Cold Junction" where the wires are terminated. The PID controller will have cold junction compensation to provide the offset to the ambient temperature, but this may be a little different to the temperature in the plug you use. Probably not a great error, but it will be there. Good video, though. I learned something.
What a great ambassador George is for the craft. I have watched many videos avidly to improve my knowledge and understanding. I'm at the start of my journey but understand so much more in a short time. Many thanks buddy and keep up the great work.
George - A 3000 watt element rated for 240V will draw around 1500 watts at 120V and NOT 750 watts. Good PID controllers should be able to calculate the exact duty cycle required and thereby reduce hunting to negligible amounts. I do this easily with just an Arduino Nano and my own control script loaded into it. Can be tweaked in a flash and works like a charm. Thank you.
Okay. Do the math. 240/120 squared will provide you with the total wattage if you use 120 volts on a 240 volt element. This is easy to confuse. One would think that because you have half the voltage that you would get half the wattage. This is not true.
Hey George, Happy distilling I've built a PID after watching your video's and am extremely happy. My question can you use a PID to control a high pressure bango burner and if so could this be video you might be able to produce. Many thanks keep up the great work.
Thanks George I did not realise the autotune feature was so clever love your videos very straightforward and to the point at the same time being that you guys going overboard
This reminds me of when I was an Automotive instructor and students would come in and tell me how I was wrong about something because their dad/uncle etc. told them so. It usually took about a semester and a half for them to realize they're "expert" was wrong.
I use a PID one I built with your help from a TH-cam video. Im probably doing it wrong but my best results are when I set the sat value about 5 degrees above where I need to be. Then I use the reflux to get at the temp i want. On this still in San Diego it is 173.6 I should also add im uesing a 2000 what 110 element in a 13 gal still running 10 gallons at a time. Id like to do 220 with a hotter element but im in the spare bed room of an apartment and they tent to get miffed when you go changing around their fuse box lol
A PID like a pot or reflux still all take time using them to develop experience. Your explanation does much to remove the misconceptions about how a PID works and why it can be a marvelously helpful tool. Realizing what distinguishes a PID above all other temp control devices is its "brain" which "learns" as the run progresses. As you've often noted, Procedure is one of the three critical legs of the distilling craft. It makes no difference how good the equipment or the ingredients if one's Procedure is flawed. Thanks!
I though PV = Process Valve and SP = Set Point. I plan on mounting my thermocouple just before the condensing column so I can adjust more accuracy while running with my CCVM coil. I will still keep a TC at the CCVM coil thou for data logging.
How to sell people on a SSR Be it for PWM or PID. Well running your still at say 1/3rd power you would have to keep switching your still on for one second and off for 3. And you have to do this all the time your still is on except when you run the element at full power. Or.... have a little electric circuit do it for you as much as 60 times a second. When I made my PWM I made alittle mistake and at 50% it would be on for 8 seconds and off for 8. You could see the drips go a little quicker for 8secs and then slower intune with the SSR light. Now its on for about a second and off for another so I can visually see what rate its going at. Great Video, I think you got me wanting to go PID someday. Already got the ktype for temperature display and high and low alarms to dial the temp down before it starts to drip. And for making mash. But I got other upgrades I want to do first.
I commented months ago to someone who said they were a production engineer who worked with PIDs. He said a PID won't work because water boils at a constant 212 degrees... Seemed to have no idea the feedback temperature was sampled at the condensation point of the distilling column and not at the mash... No reply... yet. Recently, my interest has been drawn to the possibility of using 'molecular sieve' material in distilling. Is molecular sieve material possibly a highly efficient column packing material? etc...
You can have my George built pid control when you pry it from my cold dead fingers I've done our thing every way you can and by far the best way is with a Pid built in Texas by our buddy George. #HappyDistilling
I sent him a message last week asked him to make me one... he said he no longer does it.... I watch so many of his videos... I was really hoping he would but guess not
My chiller has an integrated PID. It has many, many settings. Most couldn't be changed and all of them were incomprehensible. Whatever setting i tried I couldn't get it to stop shooting past the S.V. I couldn't get a user manual for it so just bypassed the logic board and run the compressor circuit off an Inkbird..
I’d like to use a PID to control the speed of a fan in a outdoor wood boiler. Right now the AC 110v fan is either on or off based on water temperature. I want to put a PID between the thermostat and fan so that I can sense the flue temperature and slow the fan down when the flue temperature rises above a certain point. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Easiest way I remember it (very simplified) gain adjust the manipulate variable by the difference in set point the gain setting....intregal repeats that action untill offset is eliminated, derivative look at what it will be at a set time from and reacts accordingly. Great video man....hit me up if you wanna chat
I'm interested in the methanol test. I am friends with Lunatic and Lovers distillery in New Zealand, they take off 20 litres of methanol and want to test and use it in methanol burning motorcycles as seen in my profile picture. Kind regards Matt @ Wheku Spirit Distillery
What do you think of the power regulators which are algorithmically controlled rather than a PID? Supposedly, they require less tuning. Examples include the Auber DSPR220 and DSPR320.
very informative video sir, but my question is regarding another subject. Would you consider explaining why you wouldn't touch the " nuclear ageing methods " (as you have mentioned in another comment in an earlier video) just so that the young buds into this craft will have insights and info about what such an experienced person like you has to share on the matter.
I built one of these with the inkbird about a month ago and regardless of settings I cannot for the life of me get the thing to produce a consistent temperature. I had to trick it into allowing me to run manually based on percentage of total wattage used by element. I would love to use it as an actual PID though! Love the videos George. You're a hell of an inspiration!
Your PID makes perfect sense: especially the way you explained it .If i understood it everyone should. I wasn't the sharpest in school, but you have a gift my friend eplainig. Dont forget is a lot of Haters out there.
I watched your TH-cam movies about PID controllers and I wonder if you can advise me: I built a small kiln to test ceramic glazing. The PID controller I use is similar to InkBird's TIC100, which does not have a shutdown feature. The last time I used the controller, I set it to 1200 degrees and forgot to manually shut it off. The result: the heating element was broken and I have to replace them. My question: Among InkBird's products, is there a PID that can automatically shut down the system when it reaches a certain set point temperature? I would appreciate very much your recommendation.Amos
I understand your use and preference for PIDs, for instance for a long column stabilization job. PIDs are not necessary at all, but they can be certainly useful. The PID/No PID debate (or, the preconceived NO PID position of a known forum) is certainly deprived of logic. On the methanol question, though, I really think you are wrong. All chemistry documents will explain that while using a normal still methanol is present throughout the run, with a small "spike" at the beginning and end of the run. In order to separate methanol from ethanol one needs special devices (such as 70-plates stills or so) and they are not generally available to the home distiller. Methanol has no odour, and it burns with the same transparentish-bluish flame as ethanol. The yellow-flame stinking stuff that comes at the beginning of the run is not methanol (it's acetone and other nasty stuff and is probably worse than ethanol as far as toxicity is concerned, throw it away or use it to kill ants). An overall explanation is here: www.reddit.com/r/firewater/comments/cv4bu8/methanol_some_information/ In general methanol is something of concern only to people distilling from fruit washes. Grain washes contain a fraction of the methanol of fruit washes, and sugar washes contain almost no methanol at all. Unless one distills from fruit, methanol should just not be in the mind of the distiller, it is truly irrelevant. During prohibition methanol was used in certain parts of the US as an alcohol denaturant just because it is not possible to separate it from ethanol with a still (which is what a denaturant must do to be a denaturant, it must make the alcohol undrinkable AND it must be impossible to separate by normal distillation). Also, being very dangerous as a substance, using it as a denaturant made it extremely risky to try to obtain drinkable alcohol from alcohol denaturated with methanol. time.com/3665643/deadly-drinking/ contains a link here: slate.com/technology/2010/02/the-little-told-story-of-how-the-u-s-government-poisoned-alcohol-during-prohibition.html
PID controllers are the heart of thermal circulators used in lab water and oil baths and for sous vide cooking. Good units have an accuracy of 0.1 Deg C which is very precise compared to thermostats.
I want to add temperature control to my instant hot water heater. What controller and sensor would you recommend? Is there such a thing as proportional control, or a controller that factors in flow rate?
I want to add temperature control to my instant hot water heater. What controller and sensor would you recommend? Is there such a thing as proportional control, or a controller that factors in flow rate?
Unfortunately George their are companies that sell “systems” that are actually based on PIDs but they don’t want consumers to know that they can make their own and then again there are people who have spent thousands on those brewing systems that get touchy about anything that calls into question the need for such systems for a home brewer/distiller. I think people can spend their money on anything they like and it’s none of my business but for me I really appreciate your videos because I have built my own “system” for a couple hundred bucks that is as efficient as those thousands of dollar systems.
PIDs are not for everyone because not everyone understands them. Anyone who has a firm grasp of how they work and how they control your distillation wouldn't consider using anything else.
I have a question can you remove ethanol from a bear before you bottle it and if so would that prevent a hangover and or does it change the flavor of the beer to much to even mess with it. Much regards, chuck.
Hello Mr George I m messaging today to ask about your opinion and info on a topic I saw on a video recently. A guy was saying he wanted to make his own gin and clarify the gin as well. He had bought a copper pot still from amazon and showed the thing and said he got scared and decided against it because it essentially is a bomb since the flammable gasses build up in the pipes and go from very hot to very cold suddenly when they reach the ice bathe. I know essentially it's kind of true but is it actually really really easy to blow up a still and if so or even of not what steps should I take to avoid such an incident as I ll likely be on the house stove when I distil. I ll aslo email you this just in case ya see it one before the other I dont expect an answer on both lol just trying to get with ya on this since I m so new I ve never done this before
my PID went black @ 95c , built on 230V, element 2500W, any ideas ? to hot? not enough cooling ? not good enough connection with the thermal grease? preciate your feedback if any :D
George can u contact me I have a 16 gal Brewhaus not satisfied at all bottom is oil canned wen u run it it comes up to heat n starts violently rocking company is sending me a dented one that won't rock I added the 1/4 " plate so it won't scorch I want to get a pid 220v for it ant wanted to know should I run 2 smaller elements or 1 5500 watt spent 770.00 n really bummed
I need help with my inkbird idt-e2rh. I have 2 different device wired for different times, but I can't get them to stop after the first run. They just continuously reset themselves.
Hi , Please anyone clarify my doubts someone in my company has programmed the pid function to chamber and he left and I'm new to it the main problem is it always working as an on /off switch only because whatever difference between set point and present value it show either 0 or 100 %
I’m following you and building a 120v 2000 watt pdi controller I bought the my pin but I bought the set 40 DA can I use it or do I need to buy the Ssr 25 da
You'll always be my favorite "science" teacher, George:-) Congrats on nearly 100K subscriber!!!!!
I have always felt the same way!!
I have said this before, and I will say it again. I totally do not get the arguing that PID’s generate.
It’s simple people. Try one. If you like it use it. If you don’t like it, don’t use it. The only conclusion that I can come to is there are people with absolutely nothing better to do than argue, insult and cut others down. Just pisses me off to no end. George, don’t let these people get you down! Keep producing these wonderful and desperately needed videos. Until next time. Love ya man...
There is a hilarious video of two dogs growling and snarling at each other, with a gate between them. Someone presses a button, the gate opens, and the dogs just look at each other like nothing is wrong. They close the gate, and they go crazy at each other. Gate opens again, and it's like they are best friends. In the comments someone mentions, humans have that same fence, and it's called social media. That pretty much sums it up :)
I am considering using a third heating element, and then using an Adjustable speed drive. This will give me a PID controlled PWM output. The PID will produce a variable voltage PWM output to my heater elements. The variable will be voltage not time.
I could not have said it any better. Just keep what you have been doing George, there will always be those that can never grasp it.
@@douglasnapier5427 PWM(Pulse Width Modulation") still just adjusts the on/off time(pulse width). Not the voltage.
@@magnuspym If the On/Off pulses are timed right an effective sine wave can be created. The average voltage over time can be controlled along with the effective frequency of the sine wave. Mostly the PID controller is what would be controlling the On/Off pulses of the PWM. The only issue is that 3 heater elements of matched resistance/impedance would need to be used.
I knew it was only a matter of time that you would chime in on this subject. I love the PID for the shear fact that I'm not constantly chasing a gradual temperature increase for 6 or 8 hours with a propane burner. This device has been a game changer! Thanks for the "George" built PID. 👏👏👏
I built my pid enclosure watching one of georges videos im using a 30 amp breaker running a 5500w heating element
On a 13 gallon pot this thing works great ive used a stove and propane I will never go back i will only use i pid from here on out Thank you george for all you do for us
Been using a PID on a keg pot since first watching you and I love it. I can run for hours at 175° pulling 160-170P with no problems. Too each his/her own. My vote is PID
Hi George. I I am new to this and let me tell you one thing, THANK YOU for all the detailed and very informative info in all your you tube video's . I have built one and works perfectly.
I think what most misunderstand is that even though there might be amperage spikes in the beginning, that it being imputed into am medium that that reacts slower to the initial impulse and therefore creates a smooth increase in temp rise and control. Wonderful piece of equipment which functions on a closed loop system and brilliant results from it. Thank you for all the time and effort you put in
Built a PID and it works perfect on a 35L pot with 3" bubble plate reflux column, it holds my take off temp very stable and makes the process so easy and accurate. Thanks for all the info George great explanations.
Just completed a control box for temperature and cooling water control from everything I learned watching your videos. Output is a dual 20a outlet with an Inkbird 106 PID on the top plug and a PWM on the bottom. Great videos, thanks George
Nice work!
Built a PID based on George’s design. It’s awesome. Holds temperature at ~0.2 C on either side of set point. Thank you George!
I built a controller, as George instructed. It works flawlessly on my unit. I follow his other videos using the temperatures he recommends, based on the science behind it. Simple, works, great results.
I’ve used these for 40 years in my past profession. They made life at work so much easier and when coupled to a computer you can trend those temps.
Great great videos George
I'm a noob in the hobby and I love my PID . I set at 150 degrees and once there turn to manual and set at 27 % power and run nice and slow . I also want to add between you George ,Jesse from #stillit and #beardedandbored you all have help me tremendously in starting this hobby and actually becoming successful. Thanks to all three of you guys. Happy Distilling ! 😁
Why can't you run it entirely automatically?
Just finished my 4500w unit with 110v to run my pump too. George you are the man!! I'm no electrician but his videos made it easy. Everything worked on the first try! I read a bunch of people saying you can't use it but I think that's bc they don't want to admit you can use technology to make it easier 🤷🏼♂️. Worst case you throw it in manual mode and then you have 0-100% by 1% increment. Little easier than guessing on a dial I think.
Imagine that you are driving your car and you are on a red traffic light waiting for the light to turn to green! and than it turns to green and your goal is to reach 100km/h speed on the road. You push the gas pedal and feed your engine with alot of gas to speed up from 0 to 100km/h and when you reach your target speed, you slowly pull your foot off the gas pedal and try to maintain the right amount of gas to feed into your engine that will make the car go at 100km/h, not lsower not faster 100.00km/h. That's waht exactly a PID controller does. It makes your life easier in a very efficient way. 2 birds down with 1 stone.
Sweet video Geroge.
Great analogy. Most people will understand that concept if the drive a car. The cruise control on your car works the same as a PID by adjusting the amount of pedal (gas) to maintain the set value of speed. Nice!
PID is cruise control! Soylent green is people!
@@oddjobbobb Sigourney Weaver and Willem Defoe are siblings!
Biggest project I ever worked on cost almost a billion dollars to build. Put simply PID control is what tells the thrusters how much to thrust, at what angle to thrust so we can achieved a desired set point or position. I will be choosing PID control when I finally build my set up.
George, I want to thank you for your earlier videos on making a PID controller set up. I built one that worked fairly well, but I wanted to add some features to it. I rebuilt it and now also use if for temp control on my lead melting pots. I just change the thermocouple out.
I built my PID setup based on your description. I have a water boiler with the sensor next to the heating element in the bottom. And I use it for everything: Heating water, Sous Vide, beer making and so on. I get a more precise reading/heating when using a PID and measure the temperature where it matters.
Good afternoon Geo, I used my PID yesterday and also framed in a pool deck, worked great just as advertised! Wife happy me happy! 2 birds yesterday George. A must have tool.
George, my PID works great due to your videos and explanations given in those videos. Thanks for your time an effort making these instructional videos. Priceless.
I don't have a PID controller, but I do under stand that it would free up my hands a little bit to do other things. Anything that makes my process less stressful or just more enjoyable is a good thing.
I just found your channel last night with "Parts list and decription for PID controller Part 1". It's fantastic information and I'm looking forward to digging into your information further.
So far that one video was more helpful than others when researching upgrading my smoker to reach higher temps and be more controllable.
Great info George! I have one of your units and one I built myself. I like the PID and it works well. I also use cruder controls that take some experimentation and more constant attention. You really just have to get some experience and knowledge and they all work, with varying levels of control and necessary attention. If you are working without a PID, YOU have to do the work the PID can do.
Used as a temperature controller for fermentation with a heat belt, I can hold a lot more constant temperature than I can with a sort of max/min sensor that would turn the heat belt all the way on when the temperature drops below the min setting, and off when it gets to the max temp. A PID will be working constantly to hold my desired temperature.
Oh and for the record, I am always right and those who disagree are always wrong. Just wanted to get that established. Please dont tell my wife I said this. She does not like it.
Thank you for the video, My PID is working very well thanks to all your PID videos.
George, I love your videos! I just wanted to say, when I was younger I guess I was a PID haha. I just tended fire and did what I was instructed to do. Thanks for making all of this hobby so easy to understand.
George is brilliant in how he explains how the PID works. If you don't get it, you don't get it. Thanks George, I get it and love it.
This concise practical tutorial is superior to what some uni teach to their students. I wish we could get a c program sample for the nerd to see what really happened inside the PID box.
Wonderful stuff! I am a mechanical Engineer and I love automation. You have a good way of explaining things, keep it up!
Once again another great video George! definitely was a dispute that needed a little enlightenment. I love the PID you helped me build.
So very helpful! You really have a gift in explaining the complicated in a simple easy to understand way. We all miss you, hope your doing well.
It's cool how they create a hysteresis kind of like battery chargers. Keeps that zone in tune.
George- I’ve been using one of your PIDs for a couple years now and I can’t believe that I ever did anything without one.
Thank you George for taking my call and answering my question. My bottom is sore from falling off my chair.
You need to be aware that a thermocouple doesn't give an absolute temperature, rather it reacts to the difference in temperature between the sensing end where the wires are connected and the "Cold Junction" where the wires are terminated. The PID controller will have cold junction compensation to provide the offset to the ambient temperature, but this may be a little different to the temperature in the plug you use. Probably not a great error, but it will be there.
Good video, though. I learned something.
You're correct.. A 3 wire PT100 would be a better sensor for this.
Please be nice! The best thing you said. Thanks George
I now have a Inkbird for my 120V and a Rex for my 240V. The accuracy is better than 99%. Thank you George 👍 HAPPY DISTILLING
What a great ambassador George is for the craft. I have watched many videos avidly to improve my knowledge and understanding. I'm at the start of my journey but understand so much more in a short time. Many thanks buddy and keep up the great work.
Wow, thank you!
Good Video George, I don't know why there is such reluctance from some people about using them. I look forward to the PWM video.
A PID is like an automatic light dimmer switch. Love the videos George!! Cheers!
George - A 3000 watt element rated for 240V will draw around 1500 watts at 120V and NOT 750 watts. Good PID controllers should be able to calculate the exact duty cycle required and thereby reduce hunting to negligible amounts. I do this easily with just an Arduino Nano and my own control script loaded into it. Can be tweaked in a flash and works like a charm. Thank you.
Okay. Do the math. 240/120 squared will provide you with the total wattage if you use 120 volts on a 240 volt element.
This is easy to confuse. One would think that because you have half the voltage that you would get half the wattage. This is not true.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Yes. I got confused. But when I did it on paper now, I see the fact. Thank you.
Thank you George. PID all the way from you inspirations.
Hey George, Happy distilling I've built a PID after watching your video's and am extremely happy. My question can you use a PID to control a high pressure bango burner and if so could this be video you might be able to produce. Many thanks keep up the great work.
Thanks George I did not realise the autotune feature was so clever love your videos very straightforward and to the point at the same time being that you guys going overboard
This reminds me of when I was an Automotive instructor and students would come in and tell me how I was wrong about something because their dad/uncle etc. told them so. It usually took about a semester and a half for them to realize they're "expert" was wrong.
I use a PID one I built with your help from a TH-cam video. Im probably doing it wrong but my best results are when I set the sat value about 5 degrees above where I need to be. Then I use the reflux to get at the temp i want. On this still in San Diego it is 173.6 I should also add im uesing a 2000 what 110 element in a 13 gal still running 10 gallons at a time. Id like to do 220 with a hotter element but im in the spare bed room of an apartment and they tent to get miffed when you go changing around their fuse box lol
A PID like a pot or reflux still all take time using them to develop experience. Your explanation does much to remove the misconceptions about how a PID works and why it can be a marvelously helpful tool. Realizing what distinguishes a PID above all other temp control devices is its "brain" which "learns" as the run progresses. As you've often noted, Procedure is one of the three critical legs of the distilling craft. It makes no difference how good the equipment or the ingredients if one's Procedure is flawed. Thanks!
I though PV = Process Valve and SP = Set Point. I plan on mounting my thermocouple just before the condensing column so I can adjust more accuracy while running with my CCVM coil. I will still keep a TC at the CCVM coil thou for data logging.
I like SCR for low wines/Stripping run and PID for high wines run/s.
Sharing this page with my Mushroom groups on Facebook this and heater element wiring is something we use a lot of
How to sell people on a SSR Be it for PWM or PID. Well running your still at say 1/3rd power you would have to keep switching your still on for one second and off for 3. And you have to do this all the time your still is on except when you run the element at full power. Or.... have a little electric circuit do it for you as much as 60 times a second.
When I made my PWM I made alittle mistake and at 50% it would be on for 8 seconds and off for 8. You could see the drips go a little quicker for 8secs and then slower intune with the SSR light. Now its on for about a second and off for another so I can visually see what rate its going at.
Great Video, I think you got me wanting to go PID someday. Already got the ktype for temperature display and high and low alarms to dial the temp down before it starts to drip. And for making mash. But I got other upgrades I want to do first.
I like the idea of using a PID set temp to pull off the heads, takes the guesswork out of it.
I commented months ago to someone who said they were a production engineer who worked with PIDs. He said a PID won't work because water boils at a constant 212 degrees... Seemed to have no idea the feedback temperature was sampled at the condensation point of the distilling column and not at the mash... No reply... yet.
Recently, my interest has been drawn to the possibility of using 'molecular sieve' material in distilling. Is molecular sieve material possibly a highly efficient column packing material? etc...
You can have my George built pid control when you pry it from my cold dead fingers I've done our thing every way you can and by far the best way is with a Pid built in Texas by our buddy George. #HappyDistilling
I sent him a message last week asked him to make me one... he said he no longer does it.... I watch so many of his videos... I was really hoping he would but guess not
My chiller has an integrated PID. It has many, many settings. Most couldn't be changed and all of them were incomprehensible. Whatever setting i tried I couldn't get it to stop shooting past the S.V. I couldn't get a user manual for it so just bypassed the logic board and run the compressor circuit off an Inkbird..
I’d like to use a PID to control the speed of a fan in a outdoor wood boiler. Right now the AC 110v fan is either on or off based on water temperature. I want to put a PID between the thermostat and fan so that I can sense the flue temperature and slow the fan down when the flue temperature rises above a certain point. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I'll be building 1 as soon as I buy my next still. With YOUR help of course, George. 😉 Thank You Sir 🥃
Easiest way I remember it (very simplified) gain adjust the manipulate variable by the difference in set point the gain setting....intregal repeats that action untill offset is eliminated, derivative look at what it will be at a set time from and reacts accordingly. Great video man....hit me up if you wanna chat
Mine works great! Thank you George 😎
I'm interested in the methanol test.
I am friends with Lunatic and Lovers distillery in New Zealand, they take off 20 litres of methanol and want to test and use it in methanol burning motorcycles as seen in my profile picture. Kind regards Matt @ Wheku Spirit Distillery
Thanks for the great information with all your videos.. One question, does the wire need to be a single strand or can it be multi strand?
want to understand Washington D.C.? Remember the people who can't wrap their mind around a PID get to vote. Carry on George. You're a hero!
These videos are so good. I'm sure someone has done it, but I'd like to see what could be done with a PID and a Raspberry Pi setup.
George you are top man, thanks for that!
What do you think of the power regulators which are algorithmically controlled rather than a PID? Supposedly, they require less tuning. Examples include the Auber DSPR220 and DSPR320.
very informative video sir, but my question is regarding another subject. Would you consider explaining why you wouldn't touch the " nuclear ageing methods " (as you have mentioned in another comment in an earlier video) just so that the young buds into this craft will have insights and info about what such an experienced person like you has to share on the matter.
Great video as always, I love using a PID
I built one of these with the inkbird about a month ago and regardless of settings I cannot for the life of me get the thing to produce a consistent temperature. I had to trick it into allowing me to run manually based on percentage of total wattage used by element. I would love to use it as an actual PID though! Love the videos George. You're a hell of an inspiration!
If you reach out to him by phone or email I am sure he can help you make your PID work correctly. That is what I did before my build.
Your PID makes perfect sense: especially the way you explained it .If i understood it everyone should. I wasn't the sharpest in school, but you have a gift my friend eplainig. Dont forget is a lot of Haters out there.
Great info George!!!
I watched your TH-cam movies about PID controllers and I wonder if you can advise me: I built a small kiln to test ceramic glazing. The PID controller I use is similar to InkBird's TIC100, which does not have a shutdown feature. The last time I used the controller, I set it to 1200 degrees and forgot to manually shut it off. The result: the heating element was broken and I have to replace them. My question: Among InkBird's products, is there a PID that can automatically shut down the system when it reaches a certain set point temperature?
I would appreciate very much your recommendation.Amos
George, please keep on keeping on!!!
I understand your use and preference for PIDs, for instance for a long column stabilization job. PIDs are not necessary at all, but they can be certainly useful. The PID/No PID debate (or, the preconceived NO PID position of a known forum) is certainly deprived of logic.
On the methanol question, though, I really think you are wrong. All chemistry documents will explain that while using a normal still methanol is present throughout the run, with a small "spike" at the beginning and end of the run. In order to separate methanol from ethanol one needs special devices (such as 70-plates stills or so) and they are not generally available to the home distiller. Methanol has no odour, and it burns with the same transparentish-bluish flame as ethanol. The yellow-flame stinking stuff that comes at the beginning of the run is not methanol (it's acetone and other nasty stuff and is probably worse than ethanol as far as toxicity is concerned, throw it away or use it to kill ants).
An overall explanation is here: www.reddit.com/r/firewater/comments/cv4bu8/methanol_some_information/
In general methanol is something of concern only to people distilling from fruit washes. Grain washes contain a fraction of the methanol of fruit washes, and sugar washes contain almost no methanol at all. Unless one distills from fruit, methanol should just not be in the mind of the distiller, it is truly irrelevant.
During prohibition methanol was used in certain parts of the US as an alcohol denaturant just because it is not possible to separate it from ethanol with a still (which is what a denaturant must do to be a denaturant, it must make the alcohol undrinkable AND it must be impossible to separate by normal distillation). Also, being very dangerous as a substance, using it as a denaturant made it extremely risky to try to obtain drinkable alcohol from alcohol denaturated with methanol.
time.com/3665643/deadly-drinking/
contains a link here: slate.com/technology/2010/02/the-little-told-story-of-how-the-u-s-government-poisoned-alcohol-during-prohibition.html
Apparently, the PID you made for me was meant to be ! A perfect solution
Hi George do you still build PID's I live in the uk 🇬🇧
George here is the definition of an expert - lets break it down, x is a has-been, and a spurt is a drip under pressure.
PID controllers are the heart of thermal circulators used in lab water and oil baths and for sous vide cooking. Good units have an accuracy of 0.1 Deg C which is very precise compared to thermostats.
I want to add temperature control to my instant hot water heater. What controller and sensor would you recommend?
Is there such a thing as proportional control, or a controller that factors in flow rate?
I want to add temperature control to my instant hot water heater. What controller and sensor would you recommend?
Is there such a thing as proportional control, or a controller that factors in flow rate?
Unfortunately George their are companies that sell “systems” that are actually based on PIDs but they don’t want consumers to know that they can make their own and then again there are people who have spent thousands on those brewing systems that get touchy about anything that calls into question the need for such systems for a home brewer/distiller.
I think people can spend their money on anything they like and it’s none of my business but for me I really appreciate your videos because I have built my own “system” for a couple hundred bucks that is as efficient as those thousands of dollar systems.
How much would it cost to buy one of these from you George? or do you have an idea what it would cost to build? Many thanks.
PIDs are not for everyone because not everyone understands them. Anyone who has a firm grasp of how they work and how they control your distillation wouldn't consider using anything else.
Are those PID's for sale? And if yes how much? I Like your channel! Thanks for shearing.
I have a question can you remove ethanol from a bear before you bottle it and if so would that prevent a hangover and or does it change the flavor of the beer to much to even mess with it.
Much regards, chuck.
Why would you bottle a bear?
I bought a reverse acting PID controller by mistake. Anyway it can be used for heating? It's a CX100 F
I want 4-20ma for my app.
What is the brand plastic box that you use? I want to get a bigger box but like the one you use.
George are you selling the controllers in the background?
Can I use my PID on my smoker to operate the gas blower for those 14 hour cooks?
Hey George, I have an inkbird 106, do you know of any Bluetooth or wifi upgrades that would allow controll using an Android app?
I love using my PID.
SMIB, Brother!./G\
I have a turbo 500 and I'm wondering if a PID would be beneficial and if it was where i would place the termo-coupler?
How hard is it to add another heating element to just 1 controller.
Hello Mr George I m messaging today to ask about your opinion and info on a topic I saw on a video recently. A guy was saying he wanted to make his own gin and clarify the gin as well. He had bought a copper pot still from amazon and showed the thing and said he got scared and decided against it because it essentially is a bomb since the flammable gasses build up in the pipes and go from very hot to very cold suddenly when they reach the ice bathe. I know essentially it's kind of true but is it actually really really easy to blow up a still and if so or even of not what steps should I take to avoid such an incident as I ll likely be on the house stove when I distil. I ll aslo email you this just in case ya see it one before the other I dont expect an answer on both lol just trying to get with ya on this since I m so new I ve never done this before
What kind of material can I use to keep a a very hot part from transferring heat to another part that I want to stay cool
I hate solid state relays...they ALWAYS fail shorted, and smoke your process. Ever used electro-mechanical relays?
What parameters do you have the PID set at? I'm getting some pretty high overrun temps.
my PID went black @ 95c , built on 230V, element 2500W, any ideas ? to hot? not enough cooling ? not good enough connection with the thermal grease? preciate your feedback if any :D
George can u contact me I have a 16 gal Brewhaus not satisfied at all bottom is oil canned wen u run it it comes up to heat n starts violently rocking company is sending me a dented one that won't rock I added the 1/4 " plate so it won't scorch I want to get a pid 220v for it ant wanted to know should I run 2 smaller elements or 1 5500 watt spent 770.00 n really bummed
I like my pid but one problem. It swings 8 to 10 degrees. I can't get it to do any better than that. Any ideas?
I need help with my inkbird idt-e2rh. I have 2 different device wired for different times, but I can't get them to stop after the first run. They just continuously reset themselves.
Hi ,
Please anyone clarify my doubts someone in my company has programmed the pid function to chamber and he left and I'm new to it the main problem is it always working as an on /off switch only because whatever difference between set point and present value it show either 0 or 100 %
I’m following you and building a 120v 2000 watt pdi controller I bought the my pin but I bought the set 40 DA can I use it or do I need to buy the Ssr 25 da
Hi George ,
Where can we purchase a Barley And Hops polo shirt ?.
Cheers
Paul.
These are offered only during live feeds and special events. Sorry, I do not sell them (yet)