MYPIN PID Temperature Controller - Demo and Parts List
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.พ. 2025
- MYPIN PID Temperature Controller for Bullet Casting - Demo and Parts List. Using the TA4-SSR PID Controller on my Lee Pro 4 20lb Lead Casting Furnace. These instructions should work equally well for the TA4-SNR and many other Mypin controllers.
This setup is not exclusive to lead furnaces. It should work great for smokers, home brewers, sous-vide cooking, or any other application that requires a PID temperature controller. Your thermocouple requirements will likely be different and you might want different size fuses, but the setup should otherwise be universal.
Wiring diagrams: drive.google.c...
PID Controller: amzn.to/2cLJWzv
SSR: amzn.to/2cCc9ph
Thermocouple: amzn.to/2ds4r7a
Project Box: amzn.to/2cLJCRc
Terminal Strips: amzn.to/2dufk81
Cable Clamps: amzn.to/2ds4zna
10A Fuses: amzn.to/2dueybf
1A Fuses: amzn.to/2dAr0lZ
Switch: amzn.to/2dApDDS
Extension Cord: amzn.to/2dApJve
Thermocouple Plugs: amzn.to/2cLJ3XG
Thermocouple Jack: amzn.to/2daqgWL
Fuse Holder (buy 2): amzn.to/2ds5wvM
Machine Screws: amzn.to/2dArrNh
Heat Sink Compound: amzn.to/2dskL3i
Rubber Feet: amzn.to/2cCcS9W
Terminal Kit: amzn.to/2dAr2dQ
Strippers/Crimpers: amzn.to/2ds5bt3
Step Bits: amzn.to/2cCcVSV
Heat Shrink: amzn.to/2cLK0PW
20ga Hookup Wire: amzn.to/2cCdwEn
Nibbling Tool: amzn.to/2mTwOxI
Being a 65 year old electrical engineer and fabricator, I am now sitting here looking at my phone with two thumbs up. My hat is off for one great tutorial. Build a few of them for friends and they are an absolute lifesaver.
After watching this and using the attached materials list I have built my own PID controller. Thank you!
I don't cast lead bullets, I use my Lee pot to salt bath anneal. I have never been happy with the lag in the temperature control. I do believe this will solve my issue. Thank You for the great videos that you produce. Outstanding!
It's good to see you go through and explain the crimped connectors sizes and how important it is. Too many people don't understand that, yet it is so important, as well as wire sizes, fuses, etc.
Built one using a case and PID from Auber...it came out so well that it is too pretty to use for lead so it will go into the kitchen to make a home made Sous Vide cooker. Starting the lead pot version this weekend using a project box from Amazon. One of the most informative TH-cam series I have watched next to Paul Seller's Workbench build using reclaimed pine boards. Thank you!!
Nice job! I'm a controls nut and I built my PID controller to. Essentially the same with exception of SSR. Mine actually modulates the voltage instead of off/on of voltage.
You always make excellent videos. I'm very impressed.
how did you get yours to modulate instead?
Also interested what was used to monitor voltage vs on off.
WOW that was detailed, I am not complaining that is a good thing! Thank You!
I have built a lot of small things like this and I have found that a person can just solder the wire so its very stiff and form a nice loop that works great with terminal blocks.
Dude.. I'm speechless. "Lost for words" Better yet, I will have to save any comment's till I have seen the whole series, However, The vary heart of the commercial Bullet caster is his heat control for the quality of his product, longevity of his molds and Machine. Awesome Demonstration and Presentation, I could not have done what you have done so far. Awesome Video beginning to you Video series so far. Thoraxe777
+Thorsaxe777 Thanks man. Once you get yours built you should make some vids testing your Pro-Melt! I would be very curious what sort of overshoot it had and how stable it keeps temp. I have about 20 hours of editing time in the first 3 videos. Lol. The first 3 are done but it takes a really long time to upload them. The 2nd should be up this evening. It's 1:45 long. Haha. The thermocouple wire was tricky to strip and connectorize and I spend way too much time on it. Whatever. I wanted to cover everything.
I was thinking the same.. I will do a video when I get mine built. The Controller I plan to use is the mypin TA9-SNR. It should work, However I do have the little one like you have as you have sent me in the Illustrated parts and breakdown list (IPB) as we call it at work. I appreciate your technologic background in coming up with an Awesome instruction, You are a real credit for us "White wire" electricians. I like the fuses comment. "Cheaper than burning down the house" hehehe.. That would defiantly be a "CRAP"!! moment in life. Well.. I be watching, and Yes You Tube takes about Two hours for me to load from a file on my computer even if it is a short one of 10 minutes. Don't worry about how long your videos are. They are informative GOOD instruction, And if anything was a Bad instruction, You are the type of Guy who will fall on his sword for all to see. I respect that. I'll keep in tune. Good Video instruction and advice, Dave.
I believe that you have it. constant temp. One thing, even the commercial Magma units drop temp when loading material to the furnace side of it causing a short shut down period. I have a friend who makes cast bullets as a business and what he has devised is a c-clamp that contact points (The screw and the clamp) has been sharpened to a point, He suspends a 60 to 80 pound ingot with a chain fall over the melt as it is clamped in by the modified c-clamp and then lowers it in about 2-3 inches into the melt that is in the furnace allowing his machine to run longer periods without stopping for melt down time. He tightens the ingot so the points are imbedded into the ingot for secureness so it wont fall into the melt as it is hanging there. First time I seen it I was Like "OMG", But it works for him. The math,,,, There is 7000 grains in a pound. the bullet weigh just so many grains, divide that by say 18 pounds and that is about what should keep you busy for the days production. I.E 100grain=70 bullets, 18 x 70= 1260. That is 25 boxes of ammo. Dave.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, for taking the time to put this together and sharing all of your hard work.
Thanks for the video! I watched it again last night and ordered all the parts last night. Very excited to get started building it and using it!
great video!
Made a similar unit for fermenting beer a while back. I'm new to bullet casting and having a PID tem controller makes a lot of sense!
thanks for sharing.
I have no idea how to use TH-cam to brush my teeth... but I enjoyed the video!
great video , it allowed me to watch and go to amazon and put all the parts in my list , so I will buy all the right parts the first time , Thanks
Good video I have built these. This is one of the best instructional videos I have come across. Thanks for the effort.
For my brewer friends, this works great with your brew pot, and it is awesome for your still too. All you need to do is buy additional temp probes.
Nice video. There's one thing to remember about using thermocouples though. Your wires from the thermocouple jack to the back of the controller need to be Type-K thermocouple extension wire. Thermocouple leads are a specific material and they have to match from the thermocouple, all the way to the controller. That is why your jack is also labeled for Type-K. Using normal copper hookup wire will induce some error in your temperature reading. The extension wire is cheap and available on Amazon.
I'm not sure that it will matter much in this application, but since your setup is so universal, you may need the accuracy later.
Very good point! I am no expert on thermocouples, but I cover the importance of not introducing any unlike metals in the path in video 2. I actually cut off a foot or so at the end of the thermocouple wire and used it inside the box. Thanks for the comment.
I built two units with one difference, I exchange the position of the switch and thermocouple socket and installed the PID controller 180 degrees from the way you built your unit.
This is so cool. I'm not even into casting, but I love this.
Thank you for this video. You showed me a very valuable option. I didn't fully watch the videos and bought wrong pid the first go. Now I have the correct one and it runs like a champ. Isn't as well thought out as yours but it works. I think I'm going to make a video soon on how it's done. Thanks.
I know this is an old video,but I just finished my PID build with the thermocouple installed on the bottom of the pot. It works great! I did have to reverse the thermocouple polarity. Red is positive.
Mr. Johnny, You certainly have my attention, good job. I hope I'm sharp enough to build one these. Thank Dude.
You can do it! If you run into problems I'm here to help!
Excellent set of videos. Thank You
Nice work and a great video too! Very clear and easy to understand.
Thanks for the video, I just finished my own and it worked correctly the first time.
Thank's Johnny for another great video. Your's are never "professional" dry instruction lectures. I'm building my PID temp controller tonight. Your porn music is great. I'm going to hook up an audio loop of it to my lead melter.
I am in the process of building a PID temp controller but have added some extra stuff to it. I have also added a volt / ammeter, and aux power outlet, and have made provisions to ad a lap time of sorts. I want to use this for melting lead, but also for running my still.
Crock Pot Sous Vide time!!! I like that it's modular; I can use it for my Sous Vide or move it to control a fan on my smoker firebox. I can think of many more uses as well.
Nice. How about mounting the SSR on a heavy aluminum sheet on the back panel instead of putting a heatsink inside the box?
Hats off to you sir. Many Thanks
Haha, "shiny things attract me". I suffer from the same affliction. My wife calls it "channeling my inner Magpie"
Anderson PowerPole connectors are a great plug option if your building electronic projects.
If you order parts from Amazon as I did, beware. Make sure that the items are fulfilled by Amazon. Some may take 2 months or more to travel from China after they are supposedly shipped. My annealer works great with the ballistic recreations kit, but I would like the pid controller. Still waiting for ss relay and other small parts. Another thing to consider with this is that it will take just as long to replace a defective part. Make sure of the delivery date before you punch that purchase button.
Will you sell a complete set up with controller and furnace?
When the PID 1st starts, does it call for/allow 100% of the amps of the heater element? Is there a manual way to choose how many amps you want going to the heating element instead of full power?
Will this controller be good enough for powder coating oven. If not what changes would need to be made? Thanks
For anyone making this, you do not need to put a 1A fuse inline with the PID. In fact, it will not help protect the PID. In order for the PID to draw more than the 1A it must be internally shorted. In the event that it is, that means it is fried anyway.
Yes, and an internally shorted PID that's eating a bunch of amperage could catch on fire. Without knowing that the PID has appropriate internal fusing, I choose to fuse its source for the safest possible setup. Your advice is potentially dangerous.
@@JohnnysReloadingBench that's where the 10A would blow. If your gonna try to troll, you better be an EE because I am. Safer not really, overkill definitely.
Why is my 220 mypin pid not stopping at my set temp?
Hey, do you remember Heth Kits? They sold complete build yourself projects. Boy they were nice.
Where is the kit?
Yeah. I made a few bucks building and selling the computer kits while I was in college.
Hi there, I am so impressed by this project that I am collecting all the parts needed to make one for myself. Now the only question I have to ask is that you work with 110 volts but where I am from in Australia we have 240 volts. Is there anything in particular that I have to change or be aware of building this project before I plug it in and turn it on ?
Hello Mr J. Very instructive your video ,,in my case I purchased a lee 4-20 in 220 volts ...I'm guessing the power hookup should be the same as yours as long as I use the the components you used in your device ??
Very nice....in process on one now...
Can this be used with a 220V pot? Or rather can you build a controller that will run a 220V pot?
Genius Bro, I purchased my PID controller in November 2018 after watching this video 🤦🏽♂️ still haven’t even started building mine yet but I’m going to finish it up soon so I can start trying it out. Are you still enjoying the benefits of using it? Thanks for sharing
A Type-E thermocouple can handle high temps too and has no Curie temp. Omega is the world’s leading supplier of thermocouples, so they have almost anything you can think of.
Do you have a ready made plug and play one that I can purchase from you?
Hey brother question what is the model number of the prob I want to make sure I get one that can handle the temp thanks and nice job on yours it was quite interesting watching you put it together
Using the same PID with a k type thermocouple. Unfortunately I have Problems with overshooting. I assume it has to do with the values for P, I and D. Anyone can help? What values are you using?
I am new to casting and it was recommended to me to get a PID. I was wondering if your sell these units?
I am using 400C probe, works just fine. Technically it's good up to 750F but I haven't had any problems.
Seriously when are you going to start making these to sell?? There are probably hundreds of casters with Lee pots asking this same question.
I want to add a 24v cooling fan to my controller. Can I get 24v from this design and if so, what pins do I need to connect to? Thanks
Do you sell these Johnny
I know you talked about the stud size on the PID and the SSR. What was the size of them? Want to pick up the right spade terminals. Can I use 14 gauge wire for hook up wire?
Hey i have spools of 18 guage wire,could the whole project be done with it ,seems you call out some smaller guage. 18guage is what i have on hand?? Please advise
Hi What size is the box and were can I get one, I made a pid controller but can not find a box the right size, GREAT VIDEO!!!
I'll buy one if you make it.
Do you have a actual list of parts that I can copy and paste?
Thanks
Hey johnny! Awesome work and thanks for posting this! What an awesome gift you gave the reloading world! With that said, would you be willing to sell completed PIDs? I would be happy to buy one, I'm not too confident I can build one myself.
Can anyone say how these solid state relays hold up after a few years? My concern is leaving a heatsinked SSR inside a sealed box. His power supply box seems like a great idea. Usually heat sinks should get lost of air circulation. Whatever heat it does build up can't be good for anything electronic in the box. But hey, if it works after a couple years....
For $13 for a new one I don't think it really matters. You just ate and pooped that much at McD's last time!
Instead of a heater plugged into the output can a fan be plugged into the output? Wanting to build something similar to the bbq guru
Yes! You can plug anything into it! You might need a different thermocouple for your temperature range, but this will work just fine.
Where do you have the temp switch on the pot it self set at?
All the way up on high. As high as it will go.
@@JohnnysReloadingBench why dont you bypass the factory thermostat on the lead pot
Hey what is the diff between the ssr model and the snr model controller,do you know?
I talk about that around the 32:00 mark. One of them has alarm outputs and the other does not. I don't use any alarm outputs in my design so -SSR or -SNR should work the same.
Johnny's Reloading Bench thanks for the quick info,ive got stuff on order.great vids thanks
Hi geat vid, do you sell these?? i would be very interested in one as iv just started out casting and powder coating
Nice videos. Did you use the MYPIN TA4-RNR or MYPIN TA4-SNR? I'm unsure of the difference but would like to use the same unit you demonstrated. Thank you.
I see that all you guys send each other your fantastic inventions but where can a average guy with zero electrical skills get one of these?
perhaps you can explain the purpose of this pid. it seems to me this is just a fancy thermometer. what is different about using this device verses the temp adjustor on the pot along with the Lyman temp gauge. what am I missing.
Digital control is a lot more precise than the built in adjustor. Also, you always know what the pot temp is at all times, exactly.
can I use a 12 volt dc power supply on unit with out the ssr ? going to hook up a computer fan 12 volts 0.5 amp draw on it ?
Thank you Johnny!
Has anyone been able to find the correct thermocouple probe? As of lately, I am having trouble finding the appropriate one. The only ones I can find are only rated (0-400 deg. C) and (0-600 deg. C). Thank you.
Here is one that works great: smile.amazon.com/dp/B07MCSY1SZ/?coliid=I2GRCLGJ5K01U9&colid=TOAJ7ZP3OSWB&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Johnny, I've been putting off building a controller for a year. Everything ready to order except the thermocouple. Amazon says they are out and don't know when they'll be getting any in stock. Searched and searched the web looking for one that meets the specs. Can't find anything. Don't suppose you have an extra one around you'd be willing to sell? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thomas, have a look at this one: amzn.to/2KW08wY
I think the specs are the same. 4" probe, 800C, K Type. It even has the Male connector already installed on the cable!
The search that got me results was "800c k type thermocouple". Good luck!
Johnny's Reloading Bench Saw that. The fact that it is a thermistor threw me off. Wasn't sure if it was the same thing.
Sorry. Looking at the wrong one. Thank you for your help.
Johnny, just wanted to say thank you for your help and instructions. Got mine put together and everything works, so far, as it should. Probably watched the #2 video 35 times but persistence paid off. Wanted to ask a question though before I started fritzing with the display panel. Yours looks so clear and sharp and mine seems almost fuzzy. Looked for a protective cover but didn't really see one. Did yours come with one? Thanks again for the videos.
Yo Johnny, I built a temp controller like yours, thank you for all the effort you put into your instructions. I had a small problem with it though. When I turned it on the temp went down when I applied heat to the thermo couple instead of up. I reversed the POS and NEG on the plug and it worked, temp went up when heat was applied. Any chance that the blue clad wire is negative instead of positive?? Let me know as it is driving me batty.
Yo Johnny, Carlos Again.
Went to look at your video again, and I noticed that you put the red wire on the positive mark. I do believe problem solved. Thanks again.
Johnny, great idea. It would be perfect if you had a way to add heat capacity when you add lead or pour six cavity mold as fast as you can. The PID loop does anticipate heat loss but it need like a second. Heating element in the pot in order to maintain a consistent temperature.. I have a lot of experience with PID loops controlling 100 foot long X 20 feet. Wide bread ovens in commercial 200 loaves per minute bakeries. The PID controller is infinitely adjustable but you must have enough reserve heat source to recover. When it needs it.. Hope this helps. Great video. Thank you for taking the time to give us the information.
I get a 404 error when I try to look at the Wiring diagrams. Is that just me or is their a problem with the link?
It should be fixed now! Thanks for the heads up. drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BxMxNQO4vYQdNC15SE9Ybk9XUnc?usp=sharing
do you sell these completed?
Barley and Hops sells these completed if you are still looking for one. Visit his TH-cam channel for contact information.
Regarding how to cut the square holes, here is a tool that works very well if you are using a thin aluminum project box: www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-29524-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B0001QNM7G/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1479592881&sr=8-16&keywords=sheet+metal+nibbler
Not for plastic boxes or ammo cans. It is listed as discontinued by the manufacturer but still available through Amazon.
That's a good find! Here's one that looks the same but isn't discontinued: www.amazon.com/Nickel-Plated-Nibbling-Tool-1/dp/B0002KRACO/ref=pd_sim_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002KRACO&pd_rd_r=J3PZ1Z0YWTM45VBR7F9E&pd_rd_w=TOJlj&pd_rd_wg=Hgvnx&psc=1&refRID=J3PZ1Z0YWTM45VBR7F9E
Would you like to make and sell one of these p.i.d for me
This is awesome man! Nice work. Could you please tell me if I can connect an infrared temperature sensor with this controller as well as this thermocouple?
the temp difference is likely the distance between the two until the temp stabilizes within the pot...
Wow, that cold ingot really dropped it down. It pays to have ingots sitting on the woodstove or on the side of the pot to preheat before dunking them in.
Hm, $184 when I add everything I would need to my cart on Amazon. This is making the $200 add-on that Magma charges for their built in controller on their Master Pot look very attractive :) I'm using the RCBS Pro Melt right now anyway - this seems more like an upgrade for Lee owners. Not sure how much the Pro Melt would benefit.
I doubt very many people have tried this due to the high cost of ordering everything via Amazon. Still almost $200 worth of stuff even now.
Do you mind to sell a kit?
If you build a CNC or a 3D printer please let me know. Great job!
I don't know if you are still watching the comment's here.
I just found your videos and have been wanting to build a pid controller for my lead pot.
It looks like the pid and thermocouple are discontinued at Amazon.
Have you flund a alternate supply of them.
Thanks!
I just ordered the 100mm one here. Seems to match the specs www.amazon.com/dp/B079BQQJKN/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B079BQQJKN&pd_rd_w=VY43f&pf_rd_p=46cdcfa7-b302-4268-b799-8f7d8cb5008b&pd_rd_wg=NzxSf&pf_rd_r=CH26CBHS2CKZ1CT5MEPW&pd_rd_r=979a09ad-67ca-11e9-8e21-1bab6014d995
Check out DigiKey or Mouser
if you lowered the load percentage to 70% once you hit your temp it would take out the huge swings....if it has a programmable switched input you can incorporate a switch to kick it back up to 100%
These don't really work that way. Once I get the settings correct I won't have to do anything except set the temp and forget about it! I don't want to have to fiddle with anything.
Are you building these to sell
So 3 minutes for every second for X200 speed?
Any chance you'd be willing to build and sell one? I don't do a lot of electronics stuff so it wouldn't be worth it for me to buy the stuff just to build this one item.
I think your project is Awesome, but your right the pliers are awful, i would suggest to buy dissent Crimping pliers for more better working, your hands would say after a couple crimpings, thank you very much for spare me the pain ;-)
Brilliant!
Nice job.
+Nick L Thanks!
I wouldn't want to build it using the correct lid right side up. You can't get into there very easy to repair/fix it later on and it is much harder to build and wire up mounting things in the lid instead of the bottom how you have it. The way it is now you simply slide off the top and everything is right there easy to work on. You don't have to deal with smashed/burnt wires "stuffing" that lid on either.
“Temperature set point”is the terminology you’re looking for.
I should probably watch the video before I ask...but hey, you haven’t answered my question in the first 6.5 minutes so I’m going to be that guy :).
Is this really that much better than the factory thermostat? While you are using PID logic, there isn’t any modulated control of either current, voltage, or waveform. Just a simple on/off. Which is exactly what is in the original temp control, just without the bigger brain. But the brain is kinda hog tied. Without modulating something via mosfet or vfd, at best it can only predict/prevent overshooting temp. Not maintain temp within a very small window like modulation coupled with PID would allow (kinda the point of PID). Maybe you’re able to set a more narrow window than factory, but it still needs to drop to that set temp before power is restored. Maybe the original is just so bad that anything is an improvement. Just that this seems like building an awesome muscle car, then putting 13” skinnies all around.
Or maybe I should just shut up and watch the video before asking😐
This seems like a great Arduino project, then you can tune the code much more precisely. Little bit more involved though.
New response for the benefit of new viewers- PID is purpose built for this, I doubt you would do better with Arduino etc.. Remember this PID unit has not been tuned yet. That said, an Arduino project would be a great deal of fun.
The one thing you forgot to put in was a computer fan for cool the inside of a box
Dear Lord the music
Where did you get your PID parts.
right.....on pot change gradually increasing. BAD. even worse, a 1# cold ingot dropped 75 deg. = high SD bullets.
Seems to be different PIDS mine does nothing like the vids ..but being knock offs who knows??
You should just build me 1 and charge me lol
George, a friend of mine and fellow distiller, explains all things PID better than anybody I have found. He goes through the settings on this controller. th-cam.com/video/En5Ewow4_tU/w-d-xo.html
You state it’s simply an on/off switch. That’s simply untrue. The P is proportional as as such it will vary the voltage/amperage to your heater element to arrive and maintain at the SV, SetValue.