How to Install a Pipe Boot on a Standing Seam Metal Roof
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ม.ค. 2021
- How do you install an EPDM pipe boot on a standing seam metal roofing project?
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Most residential and commercial roofs have some kind of round penetration like a vent pipe that needs to be flashed properly. Today on The Metal Roofing Channel, Matt Lane from Metal Construction Solutions and Installations demonstrates how to install a rubber pipe boot in the field of a standing seam metal roofing panel and explains what to do if a pipe falls in a seam. Ideally, it's best to lay out the roof panels so any pipe penetration falls in between the panel ribs or, if possible, move the pipes themselves to align with the panel layout.
Check out this content for more information:
"Why Does Sheffield Metals Endorse EPDM Pipe Boots?": bit.ly/why-use-pipe-boots-video
Check out Matt Lane's company, Metal Construction Solutions & Installations, here: bit.ly/metal-construction-ohio
Please note the installation details and methods shown in this video are for reference only. Sheffield Metals recommends following their published installation details or for WTW projects following the required details issued and marked approved for that specific project.
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Beautiful craftsmanship and attention to detail. Thanks.
It's all about the details...those vent sleeves in matching metal, and even the boots in matching EPDM...really nice. And using cardboard to protect the paint finish during the crimp...top quality work right there.
Great work. Loved the music track too.
Nice, thanks Matt. My permits should be approved this week. By the time the roofers get to this level of detail, I'll be able to stand there with my hand on my hip and give directions.
Great video. I've been doing standing seam for off and on 8 years. Very impressive details. I like how you made a cylinder around pipe to color match.
Same
Great video and really helpful, would be great to see a video about retro fitting a roof window. 👍
Great idea, thanks for the suggestion! -Thad
Great video I follow you guys, the only thing is that the harness lanyard is all the way to the gutters, lol Wich means is not properly wearer , 👍🤣
Hi Thod! question, here in UAE, I always encounter details of pipe boot fixed using bulb tite rivets on the sheets, while Matt uses screws fasteners on the video. May I ask you or Matt's opinion if they have a different or just the same impact on the standing seam in terms of weather tightness longevity? Nice and clean video by the way. Cheers!
caulking plus tape on the bottom?
Never in my 14 years of bleeding on the roof top would I have ever thought about the detail used on the smaller pipe boot near the ridge... Absolute genius! I can't wait to see what other killer ways to address off module details your installer has to show us. I find it curious though, with all the painstaking effort the installer took to minimize finish damage, ensure the assembly was watertight (before a single piece of metal hit the deck, thank you all again for stressing the importance of dry-in), and otherwise top notch workmanship, why there would be approval to attach the ridge cap with exposed fasteners? I'm certainly not saying this detail is wrong/bad otherwise, because certain details require, with no way around it, such as pipe boots, exposed fasteners which makes sense. What is the technical reasoning behind doing so with the ridge cap assembly? Based on what I have seen so far, my gut tells me you guys might be on to something here, and I would hate to wait another 14 years for another Metal Roofing Channel video to come, and save me from what I now understand to be an extremely manageable pipe on a seam configuration. Excellent content, keep up the good fight!
Thanks so much, glad you found it helpful! Matt has a lot of good solutions to those kind of scenarios. We are releasing the video that explains the ridge flashing tomorrow (1/27/21) and how we installed it. The cliff notes version is that this house is equipped with a VENTED ridge detail. A standard ridge detail would be installed with rivets, but the additional venting material requires longer fasteners. The key is that the fasteners do not actually penetrate the building envelope. They enter the ridge cap, go through the venting material, and back out through the z-closure, similar to the rivets on a standard ridge. Check out the video when it drops, and leave a comment if you want to know more. Thank you! -Thad
Would have been easier to move the vent to the center away from the standing seam. Plastic pipe is easy and fast and in the long run insures a better seal. Especially in high winds. That lip edge is a tornados door opening.
There are no exposed fasteners in a standing seam installation except for the se rubber boots? Seems like a perfect place for water to fine its way in. Please tell me that there isn't a better way to do this?
We changed some boots on my standing seam roof a couple of years ago, did everything exactly like your video, butyl seams etc. Boots were nice and snug. Had leaks this spring and was up on the roof inspecting for obvious issues. Every single boot appears to have stretched. one has very visible gaps the others take very little effort pushing on them to form gaps. What would have caused this, they were very tight and joints were rigid to the pipes when installed, now sloppy an loose like the rubber was stretched out.
Caulking is not a building material. It’s for temporary structures
just a comment and a question….
I’ve found it helpful to pre drill my holes in the ring so that I don’t distort the ring. I noticed between screws it get pushed / humped if not pre drilled
Also, do you exclusively use the butyl under all your fixtures instead of a polyurethane caulk, like solar seal 900?
What's the benefit to adding the extra pan to raise up the smaller pipe boot vs. just forming the ring of the boot over the rib? Love the content. Thanks.
Pipe boots are not designed to be formed around the extreme angle created by a standing seam vertical rib. We always recommend laying out the roof so the pipe falls in the panel field, moving the actual pipe penetration location, or using a detail that creates a flat pan if neither of those options are viable. Thanks for the question! -Thad
@@TheMetalRoofingChannel
Makes sense. Thank you.
what about when roofer is paid & gone then owner puts twin power stacks inch apart directly below on center of standing seam ?
Perfect until the end, should fold into the waste stack. Rain will go in between the way it was shown at the end of the video.
What is the acceptable type of sealant to be used in this application? Epdm pipe boot to metal roof
We recommend a butyl tape and a silicone-based sealant like Novaflex Metal Roofing Sealant. -Thad
Why not use a bottom and top panel sandwiching a galvanized pipe flashing that will never rot out and fail?
I agree, that would be far superior
What type of caulk do you use for this application
A caulk designed for metal roofing applications would be preferred. We like Novaflex Metal Roof Sealant! Learn more here: bit.ly/metal-roof-wall-sealant-applications-video -Thad
Was there 1/2 inch osb decking under the steel roof panel? If so, should there be a clearance hole larger than the boot base so the screws only penetrate the steel roof only? I'm thinking if the screws goes through osb decking, the expansion/contraction between the steel and the osb would be different and could compromise the butyl seal over time?
There was a 1/2" plywood roof deck. Yes, you are correct about cutting the deck larger than the boot base. The screws simply penetrate the boot and metal, not the wood. -Thad
That's going to leak around that ring every 2 inches is to far apart plus every screw ran in that butal tape ripped it and then there's a 2 inch gap with no pressure pushing down
All you need is an anvil, hammer, and the Spengler skills. I see mall people
Shhh, they don't need to know the German ways
That first pipe is gone start leaking, once that sealing breaks. 2yrs max
That upper pipe boot detail is nice work I will give you that. BUT, completely unnecessary in my opinion! But I got to know why do you guys have all those exposed screws along that Ridge line? That is completely unnecessary as well!
I'm going to go ahead and assume you guys are too lazy to Hem it on to the Z metal and then put pop rivets to connect the Hem to the Z.
I’m not the most intelligent person not have I ever installed a metal roof of any type. But, in my pea brain i see multiple issues with this boot set up.
First. Both boots were installed and a pocket/crease was left in the boot near the bottom. This will collect water, mold freeze and cause issues down the road.
Second. The pipe sleeve is a nice added touch but, ultimately you have made even more places for water to penetrate the roof. Yes I see caulk being used. Caulk only last so long and will become brittle and crack over time.
Third. I have always been told to start at the upper most part of the boot and install the screws 1.5” apart. Going from side to side and finishing at the bottom. He installed the screws 90 degrees from each other then installed screws between them. This can cause a ripple leading towards another possible water penetration.
I heartily agree with you... but only on the pea brain part.
I bet these dudes still using toilet paper