Chimney flashing on a metal roof.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2022
- Have you ever scratched your head trying to figure out how to flash a masonry chimney on a metal roof? In this video we demonstrate how it can be done, this is how we like to do masonry chimneys and it works great for us, you probably will need to find a metal roofing supplier who can make custom trims, if you do not have one already, so you can order your trim with at least a 5/8’ bend for brick and block chimneys, and 3’ for stone chimneys. Enjoy!
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You can also get this in a 24” length for Hemming the bottoms of valley angles on standing seam.
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I am an Amazon associate, and may earn a commission if you purchase any of the products using the links I have listed in the description.
Tim needs a raise. Thanks for the great post! Now I need to be like Tim! Easier said than done.
I respect u brother. Well done
Looks very good!
I’ve done a ton of metal and shingle roofing but never flashed a chimney. I’m quoting my first roof for a friend of mine that’s going to need 2 chimneys flashed. Watching this I feel 100% confident I can do this. Thanx for the detailed video!!
Your welcome!!
Felicitaciones de lujo
Very nice 💪
Great!
You have magic hands
Полезное видео, спасибо 👍
nice
Roofers take notice this is the only way to do the job I was doing this type of flashing 60 years ago I see here on you tube some fools do not cut into the brickwork and rely on sealents to prevent water penetration. When I first started doing this type of flashing around chimneys we did not have reliable sealants so we used to roll up small pieces of lead and drive the lead into the cut bricks with a bolster for a good water penetration and 60 years later it is still the only way to go.
Biutiful like bravo 👏
Thank you,
Your welcome
ok I got a few pointers for you cuz, i know but I just couldn't help it:
1. its an apron flashing, and that cut in the brick is called a 'chase' this is a chased apron.
2. when you cut the upstand back for the tabs (only need to be 50mm) on the sides, do it on a 45 instead of along the fold as you did (and cut it off here 1:45 ) and then bend this bit down flat, it helps give a little more coverage but most important this holds the silicon at the corner much better.
3. This is harder to explain without a pic but when you trim the side aprons to suit the folded tabs on the front apron, you need to stop the cut about 20mm above the fold then cut down on 45 degree to give a tab at the bottom, this leads the water away from the tiny gap in the join at centre. Also, dont cut 90 straight down to the front apron, this looks super ugly we always run down on an angle to the side.
4. when you do your side aprons at the top, fold tabs same as the front apron, I can tell you cut that and needed to put tabs on the back tray to make it work. 😉
5. we always use rivets here in nz tech screws for flashings looks rough af and def not as robust
6. We always flash up after sheets, the side aprons are then measured to suit the ribs, we always give an extra pan (dry pan) so if water ingresses the flashing it has another rib or upstand to get over before it gets in building.
7. I would have made the back tray the same profile as the ridge cap that way it would have tied in better
looks like it should be watertight though which is the main thing 👌just a bit rough 😂
Awesome job' question. how would you do this for a woodturning stove insulated chimney using the metal sheets
If your using a round insulated chimney pipe. We cut a hole around the pipe and seal it with a high quality boot. If need be we can get one that is made to withstand high temperatures
How do I order that exact material?
Thank you.
I always wondered how to prevent water from getting behind the flashing, cutting the brick is a good idea.
but I would angle the cut slightly upwards to prevent water from draining backwards off the flashing face into the freshly cut porous brick.
I’ve tried that but it makes it harder to install the flashing. We use a super strong caulk (geocell 2300 construction) we like to use the clear one ) that we put into the groove after cutting and cleaning it out. Then I install the flashing. And then apply more caulk on the outside if needed and then run your finger along both surfaces to seal it and bond it to the chimney and the metal.
@halleffect Check out some others on youtube that are stupid enough not doing this way but rely on sealants to prevent water penetration.
@@plankroofing it looked pretty sweet, if I could add another pointer you can put a crush fold on the chase too so when it pushes into the cut (chase) it kind of springs out. this helps hold the flashing into the chase tight. To make a tidy job we usually use a timber block to tap it home 👌 caulk it up, as you did bro, usually just on top but we always use MS not silicon not sure what you got but 🍻
I live in PA in a house that was made in 1930. How do you do around the plumbing air vents? Do I use flashing?
We use a rubber boot,
You can see an example of one being installed in this video.
th-cam.com/video/lEiaJB7LwmI/w-d-xo.html
That is great looking flashing work. But does it keep the water out if the aluminum enters horizontally and not angled? Too bad they couldn't fix that chimney first!
In our experience yes it does! If you use a high quality caulk like GEOCELL 2300 construction. Which we have found to be extremely strong!
For example two of us were taking a chimney down that we had previously done with this method. And they had to use a jack hammer to get the flashing off because they couldn’t pull it off by hand! Two guys!!! And it was only caulked in in the groove!
( I know it was fastened to the roof as well, under the metal because it was standing seam, but I’m sure they would have taken the screws out first)
All that to say, it works.
And I’ve actually tried to make the groove on an angle. But it only makes it much more difficult to install the flashing.
Really nice work. That river rock is the worst.
Oh they’re so time consuming too!
In Poland, and probably in Europe in general, flashings are performed on a completely different level. As you present it, it was done 15 years ago.
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@@user-kv1en5zb1k3:12
Яко
Yeah, flashing for the flashing, for the flashing. This looks way better than flat flashing, and doubled up roof metal above the chimney. It turns the chimney into an eyesore, instead of the roofing flowing around it. And you don’t need to buy a 30 piece flashing kit for $$$$
nice work
Leaks in the chimney in the future thank you for the future work 😂😂😂
We have tried to take flashing like this off of a chimney we did one time, and two guys couldn’t pull the trim off. It had to be jackhammered out.
That’s how good Geocell caulk is!
So that gonna last 30 years at least?
Metal roofs are a lifelong investment, sometimes double or triple the cost of a shingle roof.
It never ceases to amaze me at how lazy or short sighted most roofers are to leave the existing old shingle roof/s, layers under neath the new metal roof. Your metal roof will out live you, so why not remove the old roof, add a synthetic water proof barrier under the new steel roof? It creates numerous irritations or problems. #1 the unknown condition under the old shingles, is there rotten boards, plywood, mold, etc? #2. It creates another barrier to collect moister and or preventing house to breath easier. #3. It adds weight to the roof as long as the metal one is there. #4 what are you fastening the new roof too, old weak structure, etc? #4 if you ever want to do repairs or remodels, your fighting an old roof wile doing those repairs. #5 how do you know the roof condition underneath where you are screwing on boards for the new roof, which you might be screwing into rotten joists or wood under layment. #6 Its very unprofessional !!!
I would never suggest to any home owner to leave the old roof even at their request. How can you warranty a roof where it is fastened to layers of old asphalt that cover possible rotten wood? For very little extra money, remove the old roof, repair any flaws in the old under layment if needed, add a synthetic water proof layer and do it right. top being a lazy a$$ contractor because "you feel" it is unnecessary" because it is very necessary! I call it cutting corners.
What material metal you use?
29 gauge metal.
With a 40 year valspar paint.
水切りは屋根を施工してそのあとから取り付けるものとだと思います、それから水切り端の処理がなってない、それでは端から錆びる。
You mean to tell everyone that you are not fastening that chimney flash to the brick or rock??
F$@#ing Hilarious!!
We don’t do that, but it could be done if need be…
So far we haven’t needed to…
@@plankroofing
I strongly suggest that you start putting some for him a faster preferably a tapcon. You'll regret not doing that cuz you're going to have inevitably go back on all those. Manufactured specifications for all metal roof manufacturers and code in all places in America where it's in Forest require that the flashings be fastened to the structure that they're being caught to. I would think you would know that!
@@traceyjscott069 that caulking and the hem being in the brick or stone will hold that basically for at least 25 years. Geocel sticks so well to pretty much anything as long as it is clean. Putting a fastener would just look terrible. Gotta love the haters. Lol.
@@joeshmoe8912 Joe I'm going to work from the assumption that you're attempting to give your best effort. But please take it from a man who's done nothing but high end metal roofing for 33 years. You need to put Fasteners into that flashing so it does not expand and contract and eventually work loose. Your enemy here is expansion and contraction over the course of time it will come apart absolutely guaranteed! Not only is the metal going to expand and contract but the structure is going expanding contract pounding rain high winds are all going to have an impact on a flashing that's not been structurally attached to the building with a faster. You need to rethink your detailing brother all right we'll come back to haunt you I guarantee it!
@@traceyjscott069 buddy I have 23 years of experience in a high wind zone in the mountains of Pa. Never got a call back. Sorry to inform you.
Awesome job, too bad no tuck point for rest of chimney, some dorknob will ruin your great work tuck pointing at a later date
th-cam.com/video/PRGGC-bTm3g/w-d-xo.html
Nice flashing work, but putting metal over shingle without synthetic layer is sad to see.
What is your perspective or idea behind putting underlayment over underlayment and shingles? What good does it do?
Missing counterflashing
👍🇷🇴
An expensive brand new roof, built over an old rotten shingle roof. Brilliant !
The world of half a$$ contractors always cutting corners on the core, to make the surface look nice. AT least your chimney flashing looks nice, but will leak if you do not Polyurethane around the flashing touching the stone or brick. I have watched dozens of these so called "professional" roofers put a $40k new steel roof over an old rotten, multi layer shingle roof everytime. I would say only two home owner builders took the time to strip off the old roof, restructure it if needed, add a synthetic water proof layer and then proceed to do the job right.
Most contractors are lazy and do not care about the foundation of a good installed steel roof. They have no problem going over a crappy old roof, which says everything about their work.
Всем здравствуйте я шитья лучше надо было на замок делать без герметичность и будет крепко
Why install a new steel roof and not replace that crumbling , falling down chimney? A failure on the contractors end for not first requiring a chimney rebuild from the home owner. It doesnt matter how good the flashing job is, its going to fail..and soon. I walk away from these situations because I'm the one who looks bad in the end.
You must only do work a handful of times in your life then, more often than not chimneys need work, that is absolutely not falling down,just needs pointed, and for all you know he bid the chimney and they declined, so its in writing it was declined and they were advised of potential future issues with the chimney and it is not covered by warranty
Don't like the bottom corner
hahahaahghahahaha
What a cheap looking job. No step flashing? Cut right through the brick instead of using the brick joint? I do see it done this way but on houses that are small and cheap looking.