As a carpenter with only 4 years experience, I aspire to have your skills someday! 😎 thanks for the quality content. Of all the channels on TH-cam, yours is one of the most informative I’ve found!
Nice job very good video very interesting and informative and very well executed. My name is Gary from the UK retired plumbing and heating engineer, keep up the good work with the videos
Kyle, we never ever put the boot on a rib. We only use round boots. They fit perfectly between the ribs. We also don't use bulent tape. We us thru the roof chalking. Have seen alot of boots leak on a rib due to expansion and contraction. Will always leak at the bottom of the rib. Also I seal around the pipe with thru the roof before I put the boot on for added protection. Just my two cents.
Excellent job Kyle. I regularly vent rangehoods through the roof with 200mm wide flue. We use corrugated iron roofs here so when I do this, i get a flat sheet of iron made up and colour matched to roof. I bring the flue out through that to prevent a dam forming up behind the boot. It doesn't look very pretty as the flat sheet stands out, so I usually bring the flue out close to the Ridge to keep the flat sheet as minimal as possible. I'm no roofing expert but this works well for me.
Another fine demonstration Kyle. Out of curiosity, have you ever thought of using Dycor self-leveling compound on boot installs like this? It's the same product that's all over your skylights and penetrations on your RV. It's a fantastic product which also bonds to most surfaces and requires zero maintenance. Anyway, keep up on the "perfect house" project. Hopefully we get a walk-through in the end.
Fantastic video been wondering about the best way to do this for a while and now I don't need to wonder anymore thank you so much for sharing so much great info over the years, perfect workmanship and great way of explaining everything!
Great lesson on the flashing. I like the idea of the boot that goes up and over the pipe. The pvc expands and contracts a lot and it would prevent the regular boot from wearing out.
I just did this Friday. I was pretty nervous about it. I don't like holes in the roof. Lexel around the flange also screwed down. I'm pretty confident in it lasting a long time. My flashing fit between the ribs just fine also.
I'm not sure which metal roofing you used and the base diameter of your pipe boot. In my instance, my roof penetration fell right on the edge of a lap seam. My roof penetration is on my second sheet of metal, right next to the seam edge where my 3rd sheet is laid. My pipe is just under 5" OD, and the pipe boots available all have bases of 8"x8". My metal has ribs every 9 inches (Pro Rib from Menards). So not only does my boot not fit in a plane without creating a dam, circle or square...Lay out put the boot on a lap seam. My idea is to start the 1st piece of metal as a half sheet. This puts my pipe penetration in the middle of my second sheet and not on a lap seam. Diamonding a square 8'x8" boot should divert water away like is shown in this video.
I wouldn't use butyl tape. The so called roofer who did my roof used butyl to seal the boots and that stuff will eventually squeeze out and harden up and you will have leaks. It's also a pain to scrape off when you have to replace the boot and do it right. Damn near all the RV's used to have butyl at the seams and they all leaked after 8-10 years.
I agree with the install and install them the exact same way. However, I like to put the Lexel on the pipe and push the boot onto the Lexel. This helps keep the Lexel out of UV light and is an extra insurance policy. Roofing caulking has historically had issues with UV light. Rule of thumb when roofing has always been to use calking as an insurance policy not as a primary method of water proofing. Flashing is used to water proof. Caulking is used generally used underneath flashing to help keep it water tight. With all that being said Through the roof and lexel are great products. Never had an issue with them deteriorating because of UV light. But it still is good practice to try and keep them out of UV light. Cheers.
Never thought of putting it on the rip, but it makes sense you’re giving the running water, a place to escape rather than putting its square on the roof you put it out and angle now the water sheds off and around versus damning up and a potential leak makes a lot of sense
If it has any plumbing that is a non starter. Most muni codes will not let you run a plumbing vent out through a sidewall. An appliance vent can be run through an outside wall.
Good job. If you wanted to make a further refinement and you would have the maximum certainty of avoiding infiltration, you could create a small lip in the upper arch of the hole by bending the sheet metal of the roof, taking care not to tear it. in this way, even if the external sealing were to give way for any reason and a few drops of water would enter, it would have the possibility to flow laterally to the hole and not enter the house.
Very good sir! Plane and simple. Heading to the hardware store now for the roof boot…I just like saying roof boot, just learned this term today, and this definitely helps when I install my roof boot! Be careful on those roofs, installing those roof boots with your magnet roof boots! You might need to invest in some magnetic knee pads for when you install your next…. roof boot! ✌🏻
Thank you for this video because I here metal roof no good because it always leaks around penetration I trust your work so now I feel there is a correct way to do it
I have always put on a rib, diamond pattern. Water has more space to go around, diverts it. I personally put sealant under boot and a drip ring bedded with sealant.
Thank you for sealing the boot! As a roofer I constantly find boots are leaking around the pipe. I typically seal the pipe with mastic before installing the boot as the secondary protection then on top. I like you sealed the tape though. I don’t have that luxury with the products we use.
I prefer plumbing vents installed up near the peak, especially in cold climates, due to snow loads. The closer to the peak, the less weight on the boot/pipe, and less chance of the pipe opening getting covered with snow. Also if you don't seal the bottom of tge boot, what prevents rainwater from being blown up under the flashing?
Belt + Suspenders! Nice, and I see absolutely no problem with that install. My question, maybe for a larger boot with more edge to lay down, what if you used straight pieces of mending plate AKA framing angle to really lay on top of the boot and put pressure down into ‘the valley’ of that double-bead butyl tape in a continuous way? Would that actually provide extra insurance or just cause unnecessary work/problems?
Placing the boot on diamond is beneficial even on a ribless shingle roof, asphalt or metal. For sure helps guide water away from the upper edge of the boot.
I recently bought a home that needs the boots replaced. The pipes are placed where they aren't on the rib so some "daming" could occur. Any tips for how I should help prevent that? I already purchased some circular boots to replace the old ones.
Mate what a great video I’m a builder In Australia your a great roofer and I loved it we don’t have that tape in Australian can you please send me more details of it
is the gap in the butyl tape wide enough that it leaves the valley of the rib open to drain? if its just ontop of the rib surely the valley just below it, is the low point right?
What happens when you have to replace it? The screws being so close together like that you would have to try and hit the same holes. What would you do in that situation? Asking because I have to replace one and the screws are right next to each other and there's no room between them for new holes.
I'm also curious about this. I've seen videos from reputable people, such as Jake Bruton and Scott True, vent out the side and then up as you described.
Moral of the story- be exacting and particular in the design phase about venting everything thru vertical side walls to avoid horizontal roof vents & get code approval. If u truly want the bomber install that is by far the best and well worth it strategy
UPC allows side venting. Upsize in freezing zones + bird screen + opening’s (windows, doors, soffit vents) min distance. My metal roof has zero penetrations. Furnace, dwv vents and gas fireplace all side vents. Don’t let your plumber get away with the easy path
How come you don't put the pipe there before the sheating? That's how we do it in Norway. We give a meter of pipe with a siga fentrim grommet and some insulation before they start doing the roof
Could have used this video yesterday when I drilled my roof for a vent - and dropped the vent right in the middle - damming up the area between two ribs. Dang it.
Great video Kyle, just wondered if you mentioned not to drill down through where two pieces of metal roofing come together? And also it would be easier to start a hole without the hole saw on there just use your quarter-inch bit and after you get a pilot hole drilled then put your hole saw on. Also if you happen to have a battery angle drill, it's a lot easier on your wrist. Thanks again
Surprised you didn't counter flash over top of that with a aluminum cap, keep the sun off the rubber and degrading it and another barrier for water emtry on the pvc/ rubber interface
Also it's not code to use a holesaw it creates a bur on the edge of the tin causing it to rust quickly, drill a smaller hole with a step drill bit or something trace your hole and cut it with your snips
@@warrenmichael918 considering that this is an exposed fastener roof , and you really should get up there twice a year to check on the screws and washers to prevent leaks , it wouldn't be that much more effort to recoat the boot while you're up there . One of those little things they forget to tell you about when selling you an exposed fastener roof vs. standing seam .
@@warrenmichael918 at least once , cause even the best of the Amish crews will miss getting a couple of those screws and washers tight . Then you stand there wondering why your new roof leaks .
@@bobbrinkerhoff3592 I hate exposed screws on metal roofs, even if installed correctly, the heat and cold expands and contracts the metal and the screws loosen up or makes the washers fail. My old barn has an aluminum roof on it, weird i know, but they used it around here in the mid 80s. It was all ring shanked nailed but the washers were all bad when i bought the place. We replaced all the nails that were loose with screws and just a few years some were loose again.
It depends on the local plumbing code. Some require the vent for the main soil pipe to be at least as large as it, and you won't find a soil pipe under 3 inches.
As a plumber, I was taught not to use PVC through the roof on a metal roof. When ice and snow slide down, it can cut off the pipe. If you live in an area that doesn't get snow, then I guess it doesn't matter.
I am in awe of your workmanship and attention to detail, but that roof vent application is a frankenstein nightmare! You can't be happy with the way it looks. Hope someone can come up with a better solution.
ICC P3103.1 clearly allows venting out a sidewall. When I build, I will not be penetrating my roof... I will go toe to toe with the building inspector if I have to. A single penetration like that can turn a 100 year roof into a 5 year roof.
Mate pleas pleas stop putting the roofing scrues through the tray/low point of the roof pleas do it though the ridge or the top as they can’t leak up there as they can when on the bottom
We humans can carry the entire history of our world with one hand and yet, we still use this freaking ugly looking plumbing roof boot style. There has to be a better way. *Just to clarify, Kyle did an amazing job on the install. My comment is about how beautiful metal roofs are somewhat ruined by the ugliest roof flashings in the history of mankind.
I had come across this video a while back. They basically say not to fasten to the deck and not to apply the boot to a rib. It it falls on a rib they have a different detail for that. What are your thoughts on this? th-cam.com/video/Hz19ALEP0wA/w-d-xo.html
1:57 and 2:12. Damning of the Water ... classic first step in the spiral to godlessness and hedonism. Text books say the next step is the damning of the metal. 3:38 There's no hope after that. Get help.
Very thorough and helpful construction and stylish Shed Plans! th-cam.com/users/postUgkxcLVQopTIucrxiVRQA0khLGQEnDVKCSMG Numerous examples of different shed styles . Other may feature more styles, but this was the best Ryan's Shed Plans I found that gave a good sampling and a lot of good information about actually constructing a shed.
![“อาร์ต พศุตม์” เกือบเอี่ยวทุกคดีดัง เอ๊ะไว้ก่อน ไม่มีอะไรได้มาง่ายๆ | แฉ 16 ต.ค. 67 [2/3] | GMM25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0Gx-0-kUBv8/mqdefault.jpg)
I’ve noticed that in just about every video you do I learn something new, even if it’s just a little useful tip
Great tip. I never thought about installing boot/vent flashing using the diamond installation method. It makes perfect since. Thanks for sharing.
As a roofer, I'm glad to see another roofer doing an excellent job. lots of people out there doing crap jobs 😂
As a carpenter with only 4 years experience, I aspire to have your skills someday! 😎 thanks for the quality content. Of all the channels on TH-cam, yours is one of the most informative I’ve found!
Nice job very good video very interesting and informative and very well executed.
My name is Gary from the UK retired plumbing and heating engineer, keep up the good work with the videos
Kyle, we never ever put the boot on a rib. We only use round boots. They fit perfectly between the ribs. We also don't use bulent tape. We us thru the roof chalking. Have seen alot of boots leak on a rib due to expansion and contraction. Will always leak at the bottom of the rib. Also I seal around the pipe with thru the roof before I put the boot on for added protection. Just my two cents.
Excellent job Kyle. I regularly vent rangehoods through the roof with 200mm wide flue. We use corrugated iron roofs here so when I do this, i get a flat sheet of iron made up and colour matched to roof.
I bring the flue out through that to prevent a dam forming up behind the boot. It doesn't look very pretty as the flat sheet stands out, so I usually bring the flue out close to the Ridge to keep the flat sheet as minimal as possible.
I'm no roofing expert but this works well for me.
Great video, so nice to watch a how to video of someone that knows what they are doing.
Another fine demonstration Kyle. Out of curiosity, have you ever thought of using Dycor self-leveling compound on boot installs like this? It's the same product that's all over your skylights and penetrations on your RV. It's a fantastic product which also bonds to most surfaces and requires zero maintenance. Anyway, keep up on the "perfect house" project. Hopefully we get a walk-through in the end.
Fantastic video been wondering about the best way to do this for a while and now I don't need to wonder anymore thank you so much for sharing so much great info over the years, perfect workmanship and great way of explaining everything!
Great lesson on the flashing. I like the idea of the boot that goes up and over the pipe. The pvc expands and contracts a lot and it would prevent the regular boot from wearing out.
I just did this Friday. I was pretty nervous about it. I don't like holes in the roof. Lexel around the flange also screwed down. I'm pretty confident in it lasting a long time. My flashing fit between the ribs just fine also.
Yeah I try to eliminate any penetrations on the roof in the design phase if possible.
I'm not sure which metal roofing you used and the base diameter of your pipe boot. In my instance, my roof penetration fell right on the edge of a lap seam. My roof penetration is on my second sheet of metal, right next to the seam edge where my 3rd sheet is laid. My pipe is just under 5" OD, and the pipe boots available all have bases of 8"x8". My metal has ribs every 9 inches (Pro Rib from Menards). So not only does my boot not fit in a plane without creating a dam, circle or square...Lay out put the boot on a lap seam. My idea is to start the 1st piece of metal as a half sheet. This puts my pipe penetration in the middle of my second sheet and not on a lap seam. Diamonding a square 8'x8" boot should divert water away like is shown in this video.
I love your work ,I always install the boots on a Diamond but never thought about using the butyl tape .
I wouldn't use butyl tape. The so called roofer who did my roof used butyl to seal the boots and that stuff will eventually squeeze out and harden up and you will have leaks. It's also a pain to scrape off when you have to replace the boot and do it right.
Damn near all the RV's used to have butyl at the seams and they all leaked after 8-10 years.
Thank you for showing me the diamond shape . Bin doing metal roofs for ten years never thought of it 😅 . Love your videos man.
I agree with the install and install them the exact same way. However, I like to put the Lexel on the pipe and push the boot onto the Lexel. This helps keep the Lexel out of UV light and is an extra insurance policy.
Roofing caulking has historically had issues with UV light. Rule of thumb when roofing has always been to use calking as an insurance policy not as a primary method of water proofing. Flashing is used to water proof. Caulking is used generally used underneath flashing to help keep it water tight.
With all that being said Through the roof and lexel are great products. Never had an issue with them deteriorating because of UV light. But it still is good practice to try and keep them out of UV light.
Cheers.
Never thought of putting it on the rip, but it makes sense you’re giving the running water, a place to escape rather than putting its square on the roof you put it out and angle now the water sheds off and around versus damning up and a potential leak makes a lot of sense
I am starting my new home. This come out at the perfect time. Thanks for the excellent content!
Nice work Kyle. I always try to eliminate any penetrations on the roof if possible in the design phase.
If it has any plumbing that is a non starter. Most muni codes will not let you run a plumbing vent out through a sidewall. An appliance vent can be run through an outside wall.
Good job. If you wanted to make a further refinement and you would have the maximum certainty of avoiding infiltration, you could create a small lip in the upper arch of the hole by bending the sheet metal of the roof, taking care not to tear it. in this way, even if the external sealing were to give way for any reason and a few drops of water would enter, it would have the possibility to flow laterally to the hole and not enter the house.
Thanks for making the video with details, I need to install few vents in my metal roof and this will help
Very good sir! Plane and simple.
Heading to the hardware store now for the roof boot…I just like saying roof boot, just learned this term today, and this definitely helps when I install my roof boot!
Be careful on those roofs, installing those roof boots with your magnet roof boots!
You might need to invest in some magnetic knee pads for when you install your next….
roof boot! ✌🏻
Thank you for this video because I here metal roof no good because it always leaks around penetration I trust your work so now I feel there is a correct way to do it
I just finished a metal roof and I used round pipe boots, that was the first time using round ones. But with the square ones I do the diamond as well.
Thanks, was wondering how to do that. Another concern fixed. Drilling holes in a perfect roof., Had me sweating.
You can vent out the sidewall and then up around the roof here in BC, Canada.
I have always wondered why he puts the roofing screws in the valley instead of on the ridges
I have always put on a rib, diamond pattern. Water has more space to go around, diverts it. I personally put sealant under boot and a drip ring bedded with sealant.
Thank you for sealing the boot! As a roofer I constantly find boots are leaking around the pipe. I typically seal the pipe with mastic before installing the boot as the secondary protection then on top. I like you sealed the tape though. I don’t have that luxury with the products we use.
I've had my boot fixed 3 times cause it leaks around the pipe and every time, it still leaks. Thankful for this video and all the good reviews.
I prefer plumbing vents installed up near the peak, especially in cold climates, due to snow loads. The closer to the peak, the less weight on the boot/pipe, and less chance of the pipe opening getting covered with snow.
Also if you don't seal the bottom of tge boot, what prevents rainwater from being blown up under the flashing?
For extra sealing put a bead of sealant around the pipe before you pull the boot down. It will help seal that lip of the boot.
I seal the pipe with silicone as well in case ice breaks the boot 10 years down the road .
Thanks! Great information, especially installing with the diamond pattern.
Belt + Suspenders! Nice, and I see absolutely no problem with that install. My question, maybe for a larger boot with more edge to lay down, what if you used straight pieces of mending plate AKA framing angle to really lay on top of the boot and put pressure down into ‘the valley’ of that double-bead butyl tape in a continuous way? Would that actually provide extra insurance or just cause unnecessary work/problems?
Im thinking the plate or angle would be just adding another piece to a puzzle that doesnt need to be there.
It wouldn't hurt seal the pipe to the metal roofing before installing the boot ( just extra protection).
How many years before that butal tape and lexal break down with the sun and cold air on them?
Put on a second boot without the flange over the first to protect it from UV light.
Maybe even get a light gray or white one 👍
I see this around here, guys that are installing metal roofs on houses do this.
I think it’s good to caulk between the pipe and the metal hole through the roof.
Thanks, I have to put a wood burning chimney pipe through my roof, I've never seen anyone turn it like a diamond like that. Makes sense.
Placing the boot on diamond is beneficial even on a ribless shingle roof, asphalt or metal. For sure helps guide water away from the upper edge of the boot.
I recently bought a home that needs the boots replaced. The pipes are placed where they aren't on the rib so some "daming" could occur. Any tips for how I should help prevent that? I already purchased some circular boots to replace the old ones.
Lexel, best caulk ever. I wish you could get it in more colors.
Thats a monstrous vent for residential
Not if my old girlfriend is using the facility.
Imagine the smell!
great video. could not find "double bead" butyl tape anywhere... just butyl tape.
Mate what a great video I’m a builder In Australia your a great roofer and I loved it we don’t have that tape in Australian can you please send me more details of it
is the gap in the butyl tape wide enough that it leaves the valley of the rib open to drain? if its just ontop of the rib surely the valley just below it, is the low point right?
What happens when you have to replace it? The screws being so close together like that you would have to try and hit the same holes. What would you do in that situation?
Asking because I have to replace one and the screws are right next to each other and there's no room between them for new holes.
wouldnt you want to seal the bottom as well from wind driven rain or snow?
Nice work. I'd like to see what the best method would be on a hidden fastener metal roof.
On a hidden fastener roof, you have 12-16" between ribs. Most boots will fit between with diamond installation.
Thanks Kyle. 👍😁
do you not use sheet metal and fabricate flashing for vent pipes "?
I fill the space around the vent pipe and on the high side under the boot with low-expanding urethane foam
Most Beatifull Video I Realy Like Video #Greatprocess
Is that really code that plumbing vents can't go out the side? I thought it could go out the side as long as it didn't terminate underneath the eave.
I'm also curious about this. I've seen videos from reputable people, such as Jake Bruton and Scott True, vent out the side and then up as you described.
Depends where you are and what an inspector allows
Moral of the story- be exacting and particular in the design phase about venting everything thru vertical side walls to avoid horizontal roof vents & get code approval. If u truly want the bomber install that is by far the best and well worth it strategy
UPC allows side venting. Upsize in freezing zones + bird screen + opening’s (windows, doors, soffit vents) min distance. My metal roof has zero penetrations. Furnace, dwv vents and gas fireplace all side vents. Don’t let your plumber get away with the easy path
How come you don't put the pipe there before the sheating? That's how we do it in Norway. We give a meter of pipe with a siga fentrim grommet and some insulation before they start doing the roof
I can even be the first to thank you for another great video.
I second that!
Could have used this video yesterday when I drilled my roof for a vent - and dropped the vent right in the middle - damming up the area between two ribs. Dang it.
Good stuff Kyle!!
what if an exhisting piece comes through the center and not on a rib? do the ehisting protrusions need to be modified or whats a good alternative?
Mike Holmes did the diamond boot way back in the day.
One day I'll build me 1 of these. I'll know how to do it too cause I've seen all it damn videos 😂
We do Residencial and commercial finish work mostly
how was is it to put a flashing over that from the ridge down? that way it’ll last more than 5 years
Brilliant 👍 could you please do this same thing “video “for a hidden fastener tin “pro snap “ thank you
What is brand of butyl tape all I can find is joist tape?
Very nice 😊 excellent video
A New York City mostly flat roof. We need a roofer quick dry cement, hot tar tar paper is a project.
Great video Kyle, just wondered if you mentioned not to drill down through where two pieces of metal roofing come together? And also it would be easier to start a hole without the hole saw on there just use your quarter-inch bit and after you get a pilot hole drilled then put your hole saw on. Also if you happen to have a battery angle drill, it's a lot easier on your wrist. Thanks again
I'm trying to source the butyl tape. Could you help me?
Surprised you didn't counter flash over top of that with a aluminum cap, keep the sun off the rubber and degrading it and another barrier for water emtry on the pvc/ rubber interface
Siempre likean las pipes.
Hole hawg Kyle. #savethebruises
why dont you seal the pipe to the metal before the boot?
Is this w.a ? Strange not to see the ridge scribed especially a lower pitched roof
Also it's not code to use a holesaw it creates a bur on the edge of the tin causing it to rust quickly, drill a smaller hole with a step drill bit or something trace your hole and cut it with your snips
I've seen several comments about putting a metal cap over the boot to protect it from UV rays , what about using Armor All instead ?
sure, if youre up on the roof every other week doing a wash n wax on the old Buick i guess! LOL
@@warrenmichael918 considering that this is an exposed fastener roof , and you really should get up there twice a year to check on the screws and washers to prevent leaks , it wouldn't be that much more effort to recoat the boot while you're up there . One of those little things they forget to tell you about when selling you an exposed fastener roof vs. standing seam .
@@bobbrinkerhoff3592 people aint doing none of that! LOL should they, sure,,,do they, no
@@warrenmichael918 at least once , cause even the best of the Amish crews will miss getting a couple of those screws and washers tight . Then you stand there wondering why your new roof leaks .
@@bobbrinkerhoff3592 I hate exposed screws on metal roofs, even if installed correctly, the heat and cold expands and contracts the metal and the screws loosen up or makes the washers fail. My old barn has an aluminum roof on it, weird i know, but they used it around here in the mid 80s. It was all ring shanked nailed but the washers were all bad when i bought the place. We replaced all the nails that were loose with screws and just a few years some were loose again.
Why does the code mandate thru top of roof vs side of structure?
We always use the round boots I never knew they even make metal roof boots square
Round boot , center between ribs, seal pipe to panel and let dry caulk and install boot , no putty tape here.
is a 4" vent normal? I usually see 1.5 to 2" vents.
It depends on the local plumbing code. Some require the vent for the main soil pipe to be at least as large as it, and you won't find a soil pipe under 3 inches.
Where do you get the double bead tape?
Home Depot is where I found some in the wild here
As a plumber, I was taught not to use PVC through the roof on a metal roof. When ice and snow slide down, it can cut off the pipe. If you live in an area that doesn't get snow, then I guess it doesn't matter.
He's about five feet from the peak here, not an issue.
👍
I have seen some vents have vent caps some don’t, is that normal?
The sewer vent will allow rain to just go right on down with the pee pee water, no problem.
@@warrenmichael918 It is a problem if small birds or rodents get into it; you may find them crawling out of your toilet.
I am in awe of your workmanship and attention to detail, but that roof vent application is a frankenstein nightmare! You can't be happy with the way it looks. Hope someone can come up with a better solution.
Function over beauty is what I'm hoping for?
ICC P3103.1 clearly allows venting out a sidewall. When I build, I will not be penetrating my roof... I will go toe to toe with the building inspector if I have to. A single penetration like that can turn a 100 year roof into a 5 year roof.
😂😂😂😂
Angle of plumbness 😂
Just glue it .
I am supprised the roofing company does not make a boot for the roof
I'm sure that works fine, but theres gotta b a better solution than that.
Mate pleas pleas stop putting the roofing scrues through the tray/low point of the roof pleas do it though the ridge or the top as they can’t leak up there as they can when on the bottom
The vent pipe boot thing is putrid and will 100 % fail over time. Make up a metal flashing
On a plastic pipe??
Boy. That is ugly. 😂 good thing it’s up high on the roof.
We humans can carry the entire history of our world with one hand and yet, we still use this freaking ugly looking plumbing roof boot style. There has to be a better way.
*Just to clarify, Kyle did an amazing job on the install. My comment is about how beautiful metal roofs are somewhat ruined by the ugliest roof flashings in the history of mankind.
Please stick to metal buildings because siding and interior anything is not your field. Check your screw lines
I had come across this video a while back. They basically say not to fasten to the deck and not to apply the boot to a rib. It it falls on a rib they have a different detail for that. What are your thoughts on this? th-cam.com/video/Hz19ALEP0wA/w-d-xo.html
They're talking about standing seam. What he's dealing with in this video is not a standing seam roof.
Yeah, I did notice that. Seems to me it would still apply though? I’m not in the trades so just curious.
1:57 and 2:12. Damning of the Water ... classic first step in the spiral to godlessness and hedonism. Text books say the next step is the damning of the metal. 3:38 There's no hope after that. Get help.
Looks good
Very thorough and helpful construction and stylish Shed Plans! th-cam.com/users/postUgkxcLVQopTIucrxiVRQA0khLGQEnDVKCSMG Numerous examples of different shed styles . Other may feature more styles, but this was the best Ryan's Shed Plans I found that gave a good sampling and a lot of good information about actually constructing a shed.