I've gone through 3 of those in the past 18 months, I had enough. I fabricated a small metal piece that I could attach an old style choke cable kit to (just like the old days") Works great, pull the knob for heat, push it in for fresh air. Just because they can make something electric doesn't mean they should.
This video is a great tutorial on how to get this issue fixed. I was able to use it to fix the exact issue 2010 Lincoln navigator. Really appreciate your level of detail and ease of explanation, it gave me the confidence to do it on my own.
Thank you soo much for your video! I was able to fix my A/C, & change my actuator, by watching this very instructional video. I also got my part from amazon, & saved myself over half of what the dealership was charging! People like you who take the time to make these videos, are awesome!
I did this today on a 2011 expedition. You really need a low profile socket for the rear screw. I Spent about 45 min. messing with the rear screw and finally went to the store and bought the needed tool. 10 minutes later all was reassembled. Thanks for the great video. It was very helpful.
FTM, I just wanted to say thank you. This video applied to my 2011 F150 Platinum. A $12 motor (Motorcraft YH-1933 DL3Z-19E616-A) and a couple of hours saved me a huge bill at the dealership. My specific issue was that my passenger side temp zone would not respond to dash controls. There was only a tapping noise coming from higher up in the dash, as you've demonstrated. Here are some notes from my experience that I'd like to pass on: - Passenger AC/Heat zone is controlled by the top blend motor, located right behind the radio (NAV unit for me), as shown in this video. - Driver side AC/Heat zone is the bottom motor, which FTM has another video for, but I wouldn't have the guts to try that one! - Each F150 dash model is different, but if you have the Sync USB/phone jacks at the bottom of your dash stack, remove the plate for them before you pull on your center stack cover. There is a hidden screw behind that USB plate that will ruin your day if you don't remove it first, before pulling. - The "616-A" in the motor part name I provided covers the "-B, -C, etc" motors you might see in an exploded parts diagram. Ford parts guy confirmed. - One arm through the radio opening and the other through the glovebox is how I accessed this top motor. I used the smallest ratchet I had to get the two screws out. - For the back screw, I used needle nose pliers for the last few rotations, to ensure I didn't drop it. I used the same pliers to start the screw during reinstall. - Before you take apart anything, you can reach both motors with your hand (top one through the glove box opening), and can feel the pulse of which one is ticking, if you need reassurance of which motor is going bad. - Open the old motor to see the broken gear teeth. It's amazing to think that one little tooth could cost you up to a $1,000.
***** Thanks for listing tips for others! I actually have a brand new video that pertains exclusively to the newer F150's 2009 and newer to help out with the differences.
You are an awesome human being! Thank you so much for this video and all the thorough steps that you included!!!!! This is the 4th time my 2007 expedition failed. The first 3 were trips to mechanic and several hundred dollars each. I think about $600. I am no mechanic whatsoever but your video gave me steps to try it myself. Hardest part was getting that back screw. No wrench anywhere would work. Ended up putting 8mm socket in vice grips and was ‘flat’ enough to fit in back there. Thanks Again!
I had the same thing done by the dealer a couple years ago on my 2010 Expedition. Now it's out of warranty so it looks like I will have to do this. Thanks for the quality videos. They really help us DIY'ers to save $.
A million thanks, replacement worked like a charm! For anyone else who doesn't have the socket tool and/or panel puller, the combo from Amazon works great. Pulled apart old module and saw the stripped gears, hope the new module outlasts the vehicle :)
Brother I appreciate all of your video's! They're extremely beneficial, and informative to a novice like myself. I had the upper actuator start clicking on my 09 F-150 with the full dash, connected cup holders etc. I'm a big ole boy, and I have to say there was no way in hell I could get the back bolt out, or in from the actuator! I cut my arms, and hands up trying to make it happen. I have large hands. I broke the rear eyelet from the actuator. I snugged the one bolt down on the new one, plugged in the rest, and everything is operating fine. I know it's not perfect, but it saved me $3-400 dollars. I would have preferred to put everything back together perfectly, but there was no way I could reach that rear bolt. Thanks for all you do!
Ok, good instructions. I will note that this was my setup on a 2011 Expedition with dual and auto climate control. I didn't have any trouble reaching the back screw with a regular size 8mm socket and ratchet. It was a little challenge to put back in. I put some duct tape around my index finger and stuck the head of the back screw to the tape. That was enough to hold it to get it started. The part I pulled out from my 2011 would not match up by make/model/year at Advance Auto. I found the correct Dorman part number to be 604-234. My local Advance Auto had this part, but it did not reference it for the 2011 Expedition. Of course, I would have liked to use Motorcraft, but when I started working on this, I thought my vehicle had the very difficult one at the bottom of the console, so I ordered that one. Thankfully, my setup was not that and this fix was pretty easy. Thank you @FordTechMakuloco for the instructions.
I can’t thank you enough! I just completed this job and your video was so helpful. I did it step by step. Instead of your custom 8mm socket tool, I tied a string to a 4” 8mm wrench and cut the back tab slightly so I could start threading the back screw on before I put the unit on. The string was preventative in case I dropped it and assisted a wrachet motion. I also used a small telescoping magnet to prevent lost screws. Thanks again !!!
My atm card went inside ... thanks to your video making effort easily opened the lower case and pulled outside ... otherwise technician was supposed to charge some money ...önce again thanks
2011 F150 XLT Basic AC/Heat controls fixed with you video combined with video on Radio removal - thanks for the terrific video - $400 repair cost me $25 though I will say that putting that back screw in place with the Dorman Blend Door Actuator would require a miracle because the Dorman product is thicker than the factory part.
Thanks! Video was spot on for my 2012 Expedition. My part is YH-1933 or DL3Z-19E616-A. $20 at my Ford dealer. Took about 20 minutes max. My symptom was a 10 degree difference in air temp between driver side and passenger in cool mode. The passenger side was 10 degrees higher but there was no clicking sound. New part solved it. I took my old assembly apart and nothing appeared broken. I tested the gears and they worked fine. I wonder if it was just out of calibration and the recalibration step alone could have fixed it? If yours is doing the same thing, it might be worth a try to pull that fuse and let the system reset before replacing the part. Of course, if yours is clicking, it's bad.
Late comment, but thanks for the great how-to information. Used your diagnostic tips and information to switch out the actuator on a 2011 Expedition. Everything is working well now up front. Thank you.
First of all, FTM, your videos are awesome. I used your video series to successfully do the cam phaser/timing chain job and the car (2010 Expedition Limited) runs perfect. Here's my current issue: I didn't have the same clicking sound that is demonstrated in the video, it was more of a light gear grinding noise with some less aggressive clicking noises (kinda like the alien in Predator). Anyway, I pulled the dash apart and pulled out the radio. I activated the HVAC system and rested my hand on the actuator module and could feel the noises being transferred into the module, so I figured I had the source of the problem. I replaced the module following all the directions in the video, and I still have the exact same noise. All the blend doors work properly when switching from floor to defrost to dash vents. The only symptom I have beyond the noise is that my heat takes a while to come on even after the engine is warm, and it doesn't make any noise until the engine is up to or approaching operating temperature. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Hi, I appreciate the diagnosis. The air in the front isn't blowing either, should I just start with the fuses and relay and move on to the blower if that doesn't work?
So the 'broken' teeth are inside the actuator casing? If yes it would've been nice to see. Also, since you said to check which of the three actuators was busted it would've been nice to see the location of all three.
I learned two things from my experience: 1) Be sure you have the recommended tools (IOW don't think you'll find a better way without them) and 2) there are at least two of these things in the dash. After an hour and a half or so of scratching the crap out of my hands on the metal framing due to hand un-tightening and dropping things, I gave up last night. I got up early this morning and grabbed a quarter-inch socket wrench from the store, and had it off and the new one on in 10 minutes. And after all that, then another 10 minutes of removing the fuse and testing, the clicking was still there. Turns out there is one on the driver's side by the gas pedal that is MUCH easier to get to, but it's a different part, so I had to order another one. At least I did confirm that one really is the source of the clicking, and it's only another $22 for it. But for what this is, it's a great guide!
Great video! I have a 2006 XLT Super Crew that gets stuck on hot and won’t switch back to cold. I replaced the temp door actuator and it still is doing the same thing. Do I need to recalibrate it?
Couldn't find that Craftsman tool on-line. If you could post a link to it, that would be great. I could then cut a socket down to size. Had a huge challenge getting that back screw out. Replacing the blend door didn't solve our problem though. Have a 2007 Expedition EL with dual climate control and when set for heat, the driver's side blows cold. Passenger gets heat OK. Is there more than one blend door for this (EL) model?
I have two problems... your video helps with the blend door situation which is Awesome! But also when I turn my AC on it only blows High and doesn't cut off unless I cut off the vehicle. Any advice???
i have a 2009 ford expedition, and ive noticed the knocking noise behind the dash..i think its an actuator like you have described in your helpful u tube video guides,,,is there more there one actuator in my truck or is it the one under the radio only ?
Great video, thank-you! 2009 Ford Expedition, loud knocking noise noise behind the dash just like your video except mine is only when I switch to cold ..believe it's the cold air actuator. Is there more there one actuator in my truck before I tear into the dash or would it be the one shown in the video.
Just got a used 2007 Expy XLT. Front manual control on hot, blows hot as it should, but turned all the way cold, only gets down to lukewarm. No clicking or noises. Rear system is perfect and cold/hot as it should work. Does this sound like my problem? (awesome videos, by the way!!!)
Thanks for a great video. Replaced the actuator today with no problems based on your video. The only tip I would add is, remove your CD's before starting! They can get jammed while radio is moved, (according to a friend.) Thanks again!
Wow thank you! Have you run into the issue where the actuator fails in under a year? We had a shop fix it once then 6 months later it failed. He replaced it under warranty then again it failed in under a year. I have a feeling he didnt pull the fuse like you show in this video.
Question once you do this is it necessary to put back that screw in the back ? Asking cause seen couple ppl in thr comments say they had to replace this part several times
So, on my 07 with zone controls, the driver's side and the rear actuators are broke. Driver's side stuck to the cold, Passenger side works fine, rear stuck about half. Are the actuator part numbers all the same? Thanks for the video.
Hi Brian. Thank you for sharing the knowledge and love your videos. Just curious 2011 Ford Expedition with climate control. My issue is when I run the heat I noticed the air on the driver side is hot but passenger side is Luke warm but I do not hear the clicking. Could it still be this actuator? Or another issue?
I have a 2011 with dual controls. The click sounds like it is coming from behind the radio which makes me think it is passenger control. Is there a diagnostic test to make sure it is passenger only? Could they both go bad at the same time? I'm hoping it is passenger because driver's side looks like a beast to change out.
i have a 2009 f150 reg cab pick up. when i turn the heat control all the way to hot i get a loud consistant clucking or popping noise from the blend door area or behind the radio area. If i turn it 3/4 of the way to warm it doesn't do it. only with the knob turn all the way to hot. Is it the blend door motor making the noise? Ok watch the whole video and that is the same noise mine makes. must be it. after replacing it do i have to pull the fuse like you did?
Thank you for this video it helped me immensely! Once I've dismantled the front plate and radio it looks like allot of room until I had to take out that back screw of the actuator that was a huge pain in the ass, especially I didn't have a sawed off socket to wiggle inside. It took some time with an extended back wrench but came out without damage. Once the actuator was in it took me minutes to put everything back in. After install and testing it worked instantly, the next job the back actuator. Thanks for this great video and helping allot of us.
Which fuse do i take out for my F150? I believe it be a 10a mini fuse? You ever change a power steering return line that rusted out? I hear those are common.
We have a 2010 Expedition that on start up does bursts of the clicking for cold air and then eventually stops. It sounds like its directly behind the radio, would this be the same problem? Also the rear air has stopped working completely so I'm almost 100% positive its the rear blower motor but I want to test it before replacing it. Where is the motor located? Thank you for all your videos, they help all the time on the F150 and Expedition.
Yes that is exactly where it is just follow the video. As far as the rear blower I would go right for the resistor card it is on the right side with the blower motor and all that. You will need to remove the interior quarter panel to access it all.
Your videos are always easy to understand, view and follow, thanks for the great effort. Mine 05 is clicking, but only on the cold side of the temperature switch. I'd replace the same on you did here right?
I have an early build 2011 Expedition XLT with clicking behind the radio and I'm guessing it's the same problem your video shows (mine is clicking when temperature is set to cold). I'm confident in doing the work myself (I've already replaced the radio from the standard radio to an oem nav unit and installed an oem backup camera etc), but would really like advice/video on how you made your awesome tool for removing the rear screw. On every forum I've looked at online, removing the rear screw has been the hardest part of the job and I'd really like to emulate the tool you made to get into that tight space. Thanks
Tony Court I took a regular 8mm bit driver for a drill and cut the shank down so it is only long enough to fully insert driver so it is as compact as possible then with a file made a new hex into the shank so it would fit into the hand driver from craftsman which is magnetic to hold that small bit in.
I don't have the homemade tool that you have. I worked for a couple hours trying to figure out a way to get that back screw off of a 2010 Lincoln navigator. There's not enough room to reach through the glove box. I can reach back and put an 8mm socket on the screw but I can't find a way to turn it. Do you think if I bought some needle nose vice grips that they could grip a socket well enough to turn it to loosen the screw?
Jamie & FordTecMakuloco. I now own the world smallest socket wrench set, but I still have the same problem as Jamie. I can reach my hand behind there and I can put a socket bit on that back screw, but the bit is just too tall once I try attaching the wrench. I have two questions: 1) What did you use to shorten that bit, and 2) did the slip joint pliers work for you? If the pliers worked, what size did you use? Thanks!!
Doug Drake I used pliers with a long nose and they did work. I tied a string around the socket in case I knocked it off and that saved me a few times. Unfortunately I still have the clicking so it must be the actual blend door instead of the actuator. I was hoping to save money but this will probably cost me $1000 to fix.
Ok so the actuator is clicking on occasion but seems to work. At least the heater and AC work, but do you know it is not opening all the way? I say this because my AC does work but not real good. I am wondering if replacing this will make a difference?
I am not sure if you still answer any questions concerning the clicking noise. but I have a 2007 expedition limited and the clicking noise will do it anywhere from 5x to 48x when it clicks. it really sounds like it is coming from behind the steering wheel, as opposed to behind the radio. any advice
FordTechMakuloco, I have a 2009 expedition el eddie bauer with dual climate control. I replaced the blend door actuator but still have the clicking. I used P/N YH1933 which is the number given to me by a ford dealer. I get the clicking on start up even if the unit is off, when the temp is moved above 77 degrees or below 67 degrees. It will also click intermittently while driving. Are there any other tricks or parts that it may be. I am stationed overseas and it is a pain in the butt to just throw parts at it. not to mention it isn't cheap to make returns. Thank you.
Two of these OE that were clicking in my 07 Expedition, when I opened up the motor casings, all the plastic gear teeth were in perfect condition. The fail point on both was the plastic pocket on the inside of the upper casing piece in which the top of small gear spindle rests and rotates. The wall of the pocket gave way making the small gear free to push away from its bigger counter part gear, causing the gear teeth to slip over each other, causing the loud clicking sound. The slipping was made easier by the clear grease the plastic gears are packed with. The teeth are small enough it doesn’t take much flex to have them slip. So if the spindle pocket wall was just a bit thicker the units may have lasted many more years.
I have a 2011 F150 xlt and mine did it when setting AC at coldest temp, i rarely use my AC so I didnt get around to fixing it yet but a couple days ago I put a double din headunit in and plugged the AC controls back in and started ticking no matter what and also is only blowing out of the defrost, even when the floor or other vents are chosen! Can you tell me the part number for mine? Thanks and awesome video, keep it up!
Hey man love your videos! I have an 05 expedition limited that I just noticed seems to blow hot air all the time. (I mean HOT off the heater core not just oh the AC isn't working.)If I turn it down to 60 it gets cold for a few minutes but goes back to hot. Then the fan kicks up cause it notices the cabin temp going up. Any advice? Is there a climate module similar to the air suspension control module? I recently had to replace that under the dash.
FordTechMakuloco I've got a 2012 F150 Raptor and it seems the passenger side vents are blowing ice cold AC while the driver side vents are blowing barely colder than room temp. Would you say the blend door is my issue? There's no clicking from the blend door whatsoever.
I have a 2010 Ford F150 Lariat and the hvac door is clicking on the drivers side every time I start the truck but stops after a few seconds. Now thats its summer I'll turn on max AC, drivers side blows hot air with no clicking. If i turn temp all the way up to 90 it starts clicking again, then back down to 60 the clicking stops and the cold air works fine. Is this the Temp Blend Actuator or the Mode Door Actuator?? I'm a bit confused how to know the difference. Passenger temp control works fine. I've been told that the entire dash needs to be removed and I'm getting labor quotes over $1000?
Thank you so much!.....after watching your video I replaced mine on a 2006 F150. It was slightly different but start to finish under 2 hours...and that includes finding the wrench I dropped....I'm not a mechanic but your video gave me the confidence....but the new one clicks after I change from cool to warm....do I need to do it again?
I have a 2007 Expedition with dual control, I don't have the knocking noise, but my passenger side is stuck on cold. I did do the EATC self test and it gave me a code of 22 67. Is this the same actuator I need to replace. If so is it in the same general location, and do you know what fuse I need to remove to calibrate it
I didn't have a socket that could fit on that back bolt, but I snapped the tabs that hold the actuator together and pulled the top half off, pulled the guts of the actuator out and could get a regular box end wrench on that back bolt. Just couldn't get the bolt back in on the new one.
I have an 06 150 supercrew replaced the actuator .I still have an intermitten clicking under dash without touching the climate controls.any help would be much appreciated.Thanks
The original part in the video had a blue dot on it but the new one didn't. Does the blue dot mean anything? I asked because a replacement part I received has a blue dot on it and it seemed peculiar. Great video by the way. I'm asking this odd question also because the packaging for the part was open when I received it.
Hey FTM, appreciate ALL your invaluable advice and videos. Hoping you could give me some insight with the issue with my blend door still clicking even after replacing the actuator. 2011 expedition with datc. I've even opened the new actuator to insure that the teeth are all intact and they are. Could it possibly be the part that the actuator sets/mounts onto? If so what is that called or what are your thoughts sir? Thanks so much
Thank you for the information. I had the Passenger/Driver control actuator replaced at the dealer last year in my 2011 F150 because it was stuck on passenger, however now the floor/top vents is stuck on the top vent. It was making more of a 'stripping' sound versus the loud click like your video. Would that be the same actuator you are replacing in this video? Also, have they improved the design, or will I be looking forward to doing this again in 4 years?
Thanks for the video, mine is no longer clicking although when I turn it to max temp it clicks again and if I leave it on max temp and open the door it also clicks. I removed the fuse for a few minutes and unhooked the battery and it still does the same thing
FordTechMakuloco I've got a 2011 Expedition XLT and have determined that the clicking is coming from the passenger side blend door motor. Should I still follow this tutorial?
another great show. 2010 Lincoln navigator Clicking Sound behind radio ,I change the 2 actuators and I still hear the clicking. the clicking happens when the AC is off and clicks only about 5 to 7 clicks. the clicking only happens in the summer. please help .
I have a question. I drive a 2007 mustang gt, 2 weeks ago I got that clicking noise in the dash and they said it was my blend door actuator. they replaced it and it worked fine for a week, then it started clicking again. they replaced it again today and after 2 hours it was clicking again. why does it keep breaking?
Thanks for your videos. Saved me a bundle changing out my window regulators. 2007 Expedition with dual digital temp controls. I hear a fast clicking sound like a fan. Is it the blend motor or something else. Thanks for your help.
My 2010 F150 only pumps out heat regardless of setting on the temperature knob and regardless of ac or vent. I can control the flow but it's super hot all the time. I never heard any clicking at any point prior but I did not a rattle of short when my fan speed was on the lowest but went away when it was blowing harder. Is this the blend door itself that's failed or could it be the temperature knob itself ? Thanks for the video.
It is still likely the actuator itself as it can fail in the hot position and become unresponsive. The doors and front controls are almost never at fault.
On a 2010 XTR Crew cab is this accessible simply be pulling the center section of the dash and glove box? My shifter is on the steering column and I don't have dual climate controls. I don't want Ford to try to claim they have to pull the entire dash to fix it and charge me $1500+
I just got done replacing mine, GREAT video. Other then my hands being all hacked up it was a seamless operation. I still have clicking, it seems to be when setting the tempura at higher settings.
My expedition doesn't have air coming out the vents but I can hear the blower pushing air. Sounds like the air is stuck in the dash and doesn't come out the vents. Any videos for that?
Hey I’m gonna chime in on this video it’s old but I don’t have clicking problems or noises but in heat mode my front vents including dash are Luke warm blowing however my rear vent on my 2007 ford expedition is hot hot hot and with winter around the corner I’m wondering what could cause it?
So I have a 2010 F150 Platinum, I had the same loud clicking sound. My air blown good everywhere. My driver side and air to back cold . All modes work when selected just cool on driver side. It did sound like clicking was behind radio but I'm not sure because sound stopped.
question sir on my wifes 2010 ford expedition it clicks like that when we try and use the rear ac... vents the over head vents dont blow on cold or hot... but when you try and turn the heat on in the back it clicks up front behind the controls just like that but on when we try and use rear heat so what exactly would that be is there a different blendoor for that or actuator
+Isaac Garcia FYI, on the 3rd gen Expedition (2007+) the overhead vents in the rear only blow on cold by design. Hot air comes out under the seats and from the rear passenger side panel.
I had similar problem and fixed replacing the actuator in the back where would click in the back. Now I still have issue where the back heater does not work for top vents (08 expedition), while feet back fan works and gets hot. Only on AC does air come from top back vents. On heat, no air coming from them. Any ideas?
I've gone through 3 of those in the past 18 months, I had enough. I fabricated a small metal piece that I could attach an old style choke cable kit to (just like the old days") Works great, pull the knob for heat, push it in for fresh air. Just because they can make something electric doesn't mean they should.
This video is a great tutorial on how to get this issue fixed. I was able to use it to fix the exact issue 2010 Lincoln navigator. Really appreciate your level of detail and ease of explanation, it gave me the confidence to do it on my own.
Thank you soo much for your video! I was able to fix my A/C, & change my actuator, by watching this very instructional video. I also got my part from amazon, & saved myself over half of what the dealership was charging! People like you who take the time to make these videos, are awesome!
I did this today on a 2011 expedition. You really need a low profile socket for the rear screw. I Spent about 45 min. messing with the rear screw and finally went to the store and bought the needed tool. 10 minutes later all was reassembled. Thanks for the great video. It was very helpful.
FTM, I just wanted to say thank you. This video applied to my 2011 F150 Platinum. A $12 motor (Motorcraft YH-1933 DL3Z-19E616-A) and a couple of hours saved me a huge bill at the dealership. My specific issue was that my passenger side temp zone would not respond to dash controls. There was only a tapping noise coming from higher up in the dash, as you've demonstrated. Here are some notes from my experience that I'd like to pass on:
- Passenger AC/Heat zone is controlled by the top blend motor, located right behind the radio (NAV unit for me), as shown in this video.
- Driver side AC/Heat zone is the bottom motor, which FTM has another video for, but I wouldn't have the guts to try that one!
- Each F150 dash model is different, but if you have the Sync USB/phone jacks at the bottom of your dash stack, remove the plate for them before you pull on your center stack cover. There is a hidden screw behind that USB plate that will ruin your day if you don't remove it first, before pulling.
- The "616-A" in the motor part name I provided covers the "-B, -C, etc" motors you might see in an exploded parts diagram. Ford parts guy confirmed.
- One arm through the radio opening and the other through the glovebox is how I accessed this top motor. I used the smallest ratchet I had to get the two screws out.
- For the back screw, I used needle nose pliers for the last few rotations, to ensure I didn't drop it. I used the same pliers to start the screw during reinstall.
- Before you take apart anything, you can reach both motors with your hand (top one through the glove box opening), and can feel the pulse of which one is ticking, if you need reassurance of which motor is going bad.
- Open the old motor to see the broken gear teeth. It's amazing to think that one little tooth could cost you up to a $1,000.
***** Thanks for listing tips for others! I actually have a brand new video that pertains exclusively to the newer F150's 2009 and newer to help out with the differences.
I had success as well! Thank you so much for sharing. $25 was much better than paying someone else to do the work!
You are an awesome human being! Thank you so much for this video and all the thorough steps that you included!!!!! This is the 4th time my 2007 expedition failed. The first 3 were trips to mechanic and several hundred dollars each. I think about $600. I am no mechanic whatsoever but your video gave me steps to try it myself. Hardest part was getting that back screw. No wrench anywhere would work. Ended up putting 8mm socket in vice grips and was ‘flat’ enough to fit in back there. Thanks Again!
This is one of the best "how to" vids I've seen. Thanks!
I had the same thing done by the dealer a couple years ago on my 2010 Expedition. Now it's out of warranty so it looks like I will have to do this. Thanks for the quality videos. They really help us DIY'ers to save $.
A million thanks, replacement worked like a charm! For anyone else who doesn't have the socket tool and/or panel puller, the combo from Amazon works great. Pulled apart old module and saw the stripped gears, hope the new module outlasts the vehicle :)
Brother I appreciate all of your video's! They're extremely beneficial, and informative to a novice like myself. I had the upper actuator start clicking on my 09 F-150 with the full dash, connected cup holders etc. I'm a big ole boy, and I have to say there was no way in hell I could get the back bolt out, or in from the actuator! I cut my arms, and hands up trying to make it happen. I have large hands. I broke the rear eyelet from the actuator. I snugged the one bolt down on the new one, plugged in the rest, and everything is operating fine. I know it's not perfect, but it saved me $3-400 dollars. I would have preferred to put everything back together perfectly, but there was no way I could reach that rear bolt. Thanks for all you do!
Ok, good instructions. I will note that this was my setup on a 2011 Expedition with dual and auto climate control. I didn't have any trouble reaching the back screw with a regular size 8mm socket and ratchet. It was a little challenge to put back in. I put some duct tape around my index finger and stuck the head of the back screw to the tape. That was enough to hold it to get it started. The part I pulled out from my 2011 would not match up by make/model/year at Advance Auto. I found the correct Dorman part number to be 604-234. My local Advance Auto had this part, but it did not reference it for the 2011 Expedition. Of course, I would have liked to use Motorcraft, but when I started working on this, I thought my vehicle had the very difficult one at the bottom of the console, so I ordered that one. Thankfully, my setup was not that and this fix was pretty easy. Thank you @FordTechMakuloco for the instructions.
Great video and you saved me $861.00 as in what two dealerships quoted me for this repair. The part was $12.86. Took less than 30 minutes.
Sounds about right.
Now that part is over 40$...
I can’t thank you enough! I just completed this job and your video was so helpful. I did it step by step. Instead of your custom 8mm socket tool, I tied a string to a 4” 8mm wrench and cut the back tab slightly so I could start threading the back screw on before I put the unit on. The string was preventative in case I dropped it and assisted a wrachet motion. I also used a small telescoping magnet to prevent lost screws. Thanks again !!!
My atm card went inside ... thanks to your video making effort easily opened the lower case and pulled outside ... otherwise technician was supposed to charge some money ...önce again thanks
2011 F150 XLT Basic AC/Heat controls fixed with you video combined with video on Radio removal - thanks for the terrific video - $400 repair cost me $25 though I will say that putting that back screw in place with the Dorman Blend Door Actuator would require a miracle because the Dorman product is thicker than the factory part.
Best visual and verbal communication. Just saved me $700. Ford estimate. 2-3 hrs labor $185 hr + parts and diagnostic.😊
This was so helpful, took me about 15 minutes to complete. Thank you for being so great at showing and explaining what to do.
Thanks! Video was spot on for my 2012 Expedition. My part is YH-1933 or DL3Z-19E616-A. $20 at my Ford dealer. Took about 20 minutes max. My symptom was a 10 degree difference in air temp between driver side and passenger in cool mode. The passenger side was 10 degrees higher but there was no clicking sound. New part solved it. I took my old assembly apart and nothing appeared broken. I tested the gears and they worked fine. I wonder if it was just out of calibration and the recalibration step alone could have fixed it? If yours is doing the same thing, it might be worth a try to pull that fuse and let the system reset before replacing the part. Of course, if yours is clicking, it's bad.
Thanks! Fixed our clicking noise and saved hundreds for install. I appreciate it.
Late comment, but thanks for the great how-to information. Used your diagnostic tips and information to switch out the actuator on a 2011 Expedition. Everything is working well now up front. Thank you.
First of all, FTM, your videos are awesome. I used your video series to successfully do the cam phaser/timing chain job and the car (2010 Expedition Limited) runs perfect. Here's my current issue: I didn't have the same clicking sound that is demonstrated in the video, it was more of a light gear grinding noise with some less aggressive clicking noises (kinda like the alien in Predator). Anyway, I pulled the dash apart and pulled out the radio. I activated the HVAC system and rested my hand on the actuator module and could feel the noises being transferred into the module, so I figured I had the source of the problem. I replaced the module following all the directions in the video, and I still have the exact same noise. All the blend doors work properly when switching from floor to defrost to dash vents. The only symptom I have beyond the noise is that my heat takes a while to come on even after the engine is warm, and it doesn't make any noise until the engine is up to or approaching operating temperature. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
You’re the man. You’ve helped me plenty of times with Ford repairs. I appreciate your video format: Clear and to the point!
What year of Ford is this for? different years have different locations of the actuator..Thanks.
one of the best vids ive watched as a mechanic in alberta canada i liked his knoeledgable oresentation WTG brother
Hi, I appreciate the diagnosis. The air in the front isn't blowing either, should I just start with the fuses and relay and move on to the blower if that doesn't work?
So the 'broken' teeth are inside the actuator casing? If yes it would've been nice to see. Also, since you said to check which of the three actuators was busted it would've been nice to see the location of all three.
I learned two things from my experience: 1) Be sure you have the recommended tools (IOW don't think you'll find a better way without them) and 2) there are at least two of these things in the dash.
After an hour and a half or so of scratching the crap out of my hands on the metal framing due to hand un-tightening and dropping things, I gave up last night. I got up early this morning and grabbed a quarter-inch socket wrench from the store, and had it off and the new one on in 10 minutes. And after all that, then another 10 minutes of removing the fuse and testing, the clicking was still there.
Turns out there is one on the driver's side by the gas pedal that is MUCH easier to get to, but it's a different part, so I had to order another one. At least I did confirm that one really is the source of the clicking, and it's only another $22 for it.
But for what this is, it's a great guide!
You dude you rock, appreciate you making our lives a lot easier!
My 08 Expedition is doing the same thing, greatly appreciate the video, looks easier than what I thought, thank you sir !
Fixed mine. Took the actuator assembly apart, found a broken tooth in it. Superglued that mug back on the gear. No more clickity clicks 👍
😂😂😂😂....superglued that mug back on!!!!!😂😂😂😂😂
Great video! I have a 2006 XLT Super Crew that gets stuck on hot and won’t switch back to cold. I replaced the temp door actuator and it still is doing the same thing. Do I need to recalibrate it?
Couldn't find that Craftsman tool on-line. If you could post a link to it, that would be great. I could then cut a socket down to size. Had a huge challenge getting that back screw out. Replacing the blend door didn't solve our problem though. Have a 2007 Expedition EL with dual climate control and when set for heat, the driver's side blows cold. Passenger gets heat OK. Is there more than one blend door for this (EL) model?
I have two problems... your video helps with the blend door situation which is Awesome! But also when I turn my AC on it only blows High and doesn't cut off unless I cut off the vehicle. Any advice???
i have a 2009 ford expedition, and ive noticed the knocking noise behind the dash..i think its an actuator like you have described in your helpful u tube video guides,,,is there more there one actuator in my truck or is it the one under the radio only ?
Great video, thank-you! 2009 Ford Expedition, loud knocking noise noise behind the dash just like your video except mine is only when I switch to cold ..believe it's the cold air actuator. Is there more there one actuator in my truck before I tear into the dash or would it be the one shown in the video.
Just got a used 2007 Expy XLT. Front manual control on hot, blows hot as it should, but turned all the way cold, only gets down to lukewarm. No clicking or noises. Rear system is perfect and cold/hot as it should work. Does this sound like my problem? (awesome videos, by the way!!!)
Thanks for a great video. Replaced the actuator today with no problems based on your video. The only tip I would add is, remove your CD's before starting! They can get jammed while radio is moved, (according to a friend.) Thanks again!
Wow thank you! Have you run into the issue where the actuator fails in under a year? We had a shop fix it once then 6 months later it failed. He replaced it under warranty then again it failed in under a year. I have a feeling he didnt pull the fuse like you show in this video.
Question once you do this is it necessary to put back that screw in the back ? Asking cause seen couple ppl in thr comments say they had to replace this part several times
Adding the link for the parts ... not all heroes wear capes 🙏🏻
So, on my 07 with zone controls, the driver's side and the rear actuators are broke. Driver's side stuck to the cold, Passenger side works fine, rear stuck about half. Are the actuator part numbers all the same? Thanks for the video.
Hi Brian. Thank you for sharing the knowledge and love your videos. Just curious 2011 Ford Expedition with climate control. My issue is when I run the heat I noticed the air on the driver side is hot but passenger side is Luke warm but I do not hear the clicking. Could it still be this actuator? Or another issue?
I have a 2011 with dual controls. The click sounds like it is coming from behind the radio which makes me think it is passenger control. Is there a diagnostic test to make sure it is passenger only? Could they both go bad at the same time? I'm hoping it is passenger because driver's side looks like a beast to change out.
Good diagnosis explanation. It helped me determine which of the many, many actuators need to be replaced.
Thanks.
i have a 2009 f150 reg cab pick up. when i turn the heat control all the way to hot i get a loud consistant clucking or popping noise from the blend door area or behind the radio area. If i turn it 3/4 of the way to warm it doesn't do it. only with the knob turn all the way to hot. Is it the blend door motor making the noise? Ok watch the whole video and that is the same noise mine makes. must be it. after replacing it do i have to pull the fuse like you did?
Thank you for this video it helped me immensely! Once I've dismantled the front plate and radio it looks like allot of room until I had to take out that back screw of the actuator that was a huge pain in the ass, especially I didn't have a sawed off socket to wiggle inside. It took some time with an extended back wrench but came out without damage. Once the actuator was in it took me minutes to put everything back in. After install and testing it worked instantly, the next job the back actuator. Thanks for this great video and helping allot of us.
Which fuse do i take out for my F150? I believe it be a 10a mini fuse? You ever change a power steering return line that rusted out? I hear those are common.
What year and yes I have replaced the pressure lines for rot on the 04-08 years
+FordTechMakuloco It's a 2008. Mine has rusted out and leaking slow. Tomorrow is that big day.
We have a 2010 Expedition that on start up does bursts of the clicking for cold air and then eventually stops. It sounds like its directly behind the radio, would this be the same problem? Also the rear air has stopped working completely so I'm almost 100% positive its the rear blower motor but I want to test it before replacing it. Where is the motor located? Thank you for all your videos, they help all the time on the F150 and Expedition.
Yes that is exactly where it is just follow the video. As far as the rear blower I would go right for the resistor card it is on the right side with the blower motor and all that. You will need to remove the interior quarter panel to access it all.
The interior panel in the pack of the expedition? Which side?
right side
Your videos are always easy to understand, view and follow, thanks for the great effort. Mine 05 is clicking, but only on the cold side of the temperature switch. I'd replace the same on you did here right?
I have an early build 2011 Expedition XLT with clicking behind the radio and I'm guessing it's the same problem your video shows (mine is clicking when temperature is set to cold). I'm confident in doing the work myself (I've already replaced the radio from the standard radio to an oem nav unit and installed an oem backup camera etc), but would really like advice/video on how you made your awesome tool for removing the rear screw. On every forum I've looked at online, removing the rear screw has been the hardest part of the job and I'd really like to emulate the tool you made to get into that tight space. Thanks
Tony Court I took a regular 8mm bit driver for a drill and cut the shank down so it is only long enough to fully insert driver so it is as compact as possible then with a file made a new hex into the shank so it would fit into the hand driver from craftsman which is magnetic to hold that small bit in.
Thanks :)
FordTechMakuloco can I buy one of those special but from you? I'm so incredibly frustrated and will gladly pay for a bit that fits?
I don't have the homemade tool that you have. I worked for a couple hours trying to figure out a way to get that back screw off of a 2010 Lincoln navigator. There's not enough room to reach through the glove box. I can reach back and put an 8mm socket on the screw but I can't find a way to turn it. Do you think if I bought some needle nose vice grips that they could grip a socket well enough to turn it to loosen the screw?
Jamie Buchanan That is an option yes but I would use a small pair of slip joint pliers instead.
Jamie & FordTecMakuloco. I now own the world smallest socket wrench set, but I still have the same problem as Jamie. I can reach my hand behind there and I can put a socket bit on that back screw, but the bit is just too tall once I try attaching the wrench. I have two questions: 1) What did you use to shorten that bit, and 2) did the slip joint pliers work for you? If the pliers worked, what size did you use? Thanks!!
Doug Drake I used pliers with a long nose and they did work. I tied a string around the socket in case I knocked it off and that saved me a few times. Unfortunately I still have the clicking so it must be the actual blend door instead of the actuator. I was hoping to save money but this will probably cost me $1000 to fix.
Ok so the actuator is clicking on occasion but seems to work. At least the heater and AC work, but do you know it is not opening all the way? I say this because my AC does work but not real good. I am wondering if replacing this will make a difference?
Very well put together and detailed video! will this procedure be the same for a 2006 F-150 Larriat?
The part listed in the link is not the same part you replace. The part replaced is the Motorcraft YH1881 Blend Door Actuator.
You mention that a regular 8mm socket does not fit in the back bolt area. Can you describe the tool you made to fit? Thank you.
Thank you for your tutorial really helpful. I replaced my front actuator and it was cold for about a day. Now it blows warm air. Any advice?
Great video. Is the actuator located in the same place on a 2007 Ford Expedition? Thank you
I am not sure if you still answer any questions concerning the clicking noise. but I have a 2007 expedition limited and the clicking noise will do it anywhere from 5x to 48x when it clicks. it really sounds like it is coming from behind the steering wheel, as opposed to behind the radio. any advice
FordTechMakuloco, I have a 2009 expedition el eddie bauer with dual climate control. I replaced the blend door actuator but still have the clicking. I used P/N YH1933 which is the number given to me by a ford dealer. I get the clicking on start up even if the unit is off, when the temp is moved above 77 degrees or below 67 degrees. It will also click intermittently while driving. Are there any other tricks or parts that it may be. I am stationed overseas and it is a pain in the butt to just throw parts at it. not to mention it isn't cheap to make returns. Thank you.
Did you ever figure it out?
Two of these OE that were clicking in my 07 Expedition, when I opened up the motor casings, all the plastic gear teeth were in perfect condition. The fail point on both was the plastic pocket on the inside of the upper casing piece in which the top of small gear spindle rests and rotates. The wall of the pocket gave way making the small gear free to push away from its bigger counter part gear, causing the gear teeth to slip over each other, causing the loud clicking sound. The slipping was made easier by the clear grease the plastic gears are packed with. The teeth are small enough it doesn’t take much flex to have them slip. So if the spindle pocket wall was just a bit thicker the units may have lasted many more years.
I have a 2011 F150 xlt and mine did it when setting AC at coldest temp, i rarely use my AC so I didnt get around to fixing it yet but a couple days ago I put a double din headunit in and plugged the AC controls back in and started ticking no matter what and also is only blowing out of the defrost, even when the floor or other vents are chosen! Can you tell me the part number for mine? Thanks and awesome video, keep it up!
Casey Bryant I would call the dealer the truck has date breaks for the part numbers and they would need your vin.
Hey man love your videos! I have an 05 expedition limited that I just noticed seems to blow hot air all the time. (I mean HOT off the heater core not just oh the AC isn't working.)If I turn it down to 60 it gets cold for a few minutes but goes back to hot. Then the fan kicks up cause it notices the cabin temp going up. Any advice? Is there a climate module similar to the air suspension control module? I recently had to replace that under the dash.
FordTechMakuloco I've got a 2012 F150 Raptor and it seems the passenger side vents are blowing ice cold AC while the driver side vents are blowing barely colder than room temp. Would you say the blend door is my issue? There's no clicking from the blend door whatsoever.
I have a 2010 Ford F150 Lariat and the hvac door is clicking on the drivers side every time I start the truck but stops after a few seconds. Now thats its summer I'll turn on max AC, drivers side blows hot air with no clicking. If i turn temp all the way up to 90 it starts clicking again, then back down to 60 the clicking stops and the cold air works fine. Is this the Temp Blend Actuator or the Mode Door Actuator?? I'm a bit confused how to know the difference. Passenger temp control works fine. I've been told that the entire dash needs to be removed and I'm getting labor quotes over $1000?
Thank you so much!.....after watching your video I replaced mine on a 2006 F150. It was slightly different but start to finish under 2 hours...and that includes finding the wrench I dropped....I'm not a mechanic but your video gave me the confidence....but the new one clicks after I change from cool to warm....do I need to do it again?
Same issue on my 06.
Mine still sounds like plastic dragging or something with a click.
You ever figure out why?
I have a 2007 Expedition with dual control, I don't have the knocking noise, but my passenger side is stuck on cold. I did do the EATC self test and it gave me a code of 22 67. Is this the same actuator I need to replace. If so is it in the same general location, and do you know what fuse I need to remove to calibrate it
I didn't have a socket that could fit on that back bolt, but I snapped the tabs that hold the actuator together and pulled the top half off, pulled the guts of the actuator out and could get a regular box end wrench on that back bolt. Just couldn't get the bolt back in on the new one.
I have an 06 150 supercrew replaced the actuator .I still have an intermitten clicking under dash without touching the climate controls.any help would be much appreciated.Thanks
The original part in the video had a blue dot on it but the new one didn't. Does the blue dot mean anything? I asked because a replacement part I received has a blue dot on it and it seemed peculiar. Great video by the way. I'm asking this odd question also because the packaging for the part was open when I received it.
Worked like a charm. Thank you for these video instructions. Keep up the good work.
My wife's 2011 expedition has a different a/c panel than the one in your video. Is the actuator still in the same area?
Hey FTM, appreciate ALL your invaluable advice and videos. Hoping you could give me some insight with the issue with my blend door still clicking even after replacing the actuator. 2011 expedition with datc. I've even opened the new actuator to insure that the teeth are all intact and they are. Could it possibly be the part that the actuator sets/mounts onto? If so what is that called or what are your thoughts sir? Thanks so much
You mentioned in the video, that the door itself inside the heater unit could be stuck?
Thank you for the information. I had the Passenger/Driver control actuator replaced at the dealer last year in my 2011 F150 because it was stuck on passenger, however now the floor/top vents is stuck on the top vent. It was making more of a 'stripping' sound versus the loud click like your video.
Would that be the same actuator you are replacing in this video? Also, have they improved the design, or will I be looking forward to doing this again in 4 years?
+Shoddie Shotgun My guess is it is not the same actuator?
Thanks for the video, mine is no longer clicking although when I turn it to max temp it clicks again and if I leave it on max temp and open the door it also clicks. I removed the fuse for a few minutes and unhooked the battery and it still does the same thing
Thanks! Mine started clicking a day or so ago. I'll attempt this one myself (with your video's help of course)
On an 08 Expedition with dual air digital is this blend door motor behind the radio the drivers side or passenger side? Thanks for the great videos.
B Scott drivers side is the lower one.
FordTechMakuloco I've got a 2011 Expedition XLT and have determined that the clicking is coming from the passenger side blend door motor. Should I still follow this tutorial?
another great show. 2010 Lincoln navigator Clicking Sound behind radio ,I change the 2 actuators and I still hear the clicking. the clicking happens when the AC is off and clicks only about 5 to 7 clicks. the clicking only happens in the summer. please help .
I have a question. I drive a 2007 mustang gt, 2 weeks ago I got that clicking noise in the dash and they said it was my blend door actuator. they replaced it and it worked fine for a week, then it started clicking again. they replaced it again today and after 2 hours it was clicking again. why does it keep breaking?
Thanks for your videos. Saved me a bundle changing out my window regulators.
2007 Expedition with dual digital temp controls. I hear a fast clicking sound like a fan. Is it the blend motor or something else.
Thanks for your help.
+Frank Osborn Turns out it was a malfunctioning navigation player. I removed the cd and it stopped making the noise.
My 2010 F150 only pumps out heat regardless of setting on the temperature knob and regardless of ac or vent.
I can control the flow but it's super hot all the time.
I never heard any clicking at any point prior but I did not a rattle of short when my fan speed was on the lowest but went away when it was blowing harder.
Is this the blend door itself that's failed or could it be the temperature knob itself ?
Thanks for the video.
It is still likely the actuator itself as it can fail in the hot position and become unresponsive. The doors and front controls are almost never at fault.
On a 2010 XTR Crew cab is this accessible simply be pulling the center section of the dash and glove box? My shifter is on the steering column and I don't have dual climate controls. I don't want Ford to try to claim they have to pull the entire dash to fix it and charge me $1500+
yes yours is very close to how this one is done.
I just got done replacing mine, GREAT video. Other then my hands being all hacked up it was a seamless operation. I still have clicking, it seems to be when setting the tempura at higher settings.
+Allen Kelmer You have dual climate control?
+FordTechMakuloco Yes I do (UT-OH), I'm siting.......
My expedition doesn't have air coming out the vents but I can hear the blower pushing air. Sounds like the air is stuck in the dash and doesn't come out the vents. Any videos for that?
What is the description for the calibration on the 2007 Expy ? , thank you !!!!
Thank you so much for this video! Fixed mine in like 15 minutes and plus I would have had no idea what was making this sound. Your the man!!
Great video- I was inclined to make one on the topic, but why? You NAILED IT!
+briansmobile1 Thanks!
How many actuators are there? My 07 Expedition is doing the same noise... Thanks! Great videos as always!
How about a vid on the blend door? Have defrost and heater but no panel vent air.
Could you give some advice my ac or heat will stay running will not cut off unless I turn vehicle off any suggestions
another satisfied customer! instructions worked great!
Hey I’m gonna chime in on this video it’s old but I don’t have clicking problems or noises but in heat mode my front vents including dash are Luke warm blowing however my rear vent on my 2007 ford expedition is hot hot hot and with winter around the corner I’m wondering what could cause it?
So I have a 2010 F150 Platinum, I had the same loud clicking sound. My air blown good everywhere. My driver side and air to back cold . All modes work when selected just cool on driver side. It did sound like clicking was behind radio but I'm not sure because sound stopped.
question sir on my wifes 2010 ford expedition it clicks like that when we try and use the rear ac... vents the over head vents dont blow on cold or hot... but when you try and turn the heat on in the back it clicks up front behind the controls just like that but on when we try and use rear heat so what exactly would that be is there a different blendoor for that or actuator
+Isaac Garcia if it clicks up front behind the controls then this actuator needs to be replaced first.
+Isaac Garcia FYI, on the 3rd gen Expedition (2007+) the overhead vents in the rear only blow on cold by design. Hot air comes out under the seats and from the rear passenger side panel.
Does this solve the problem with the heat not working? but a.c does, but there’s clicking in the back
Thanks, is the installation proses the same as the video ?
I had similar problem and fixed replacing the actuator in the back where would click in the back. Now I still have issue where the back heater does not work for top vents (08 expedition), while feet back fan works and gets hot.
Only on AC does air come from top back vents. On heat, no air coming from them. Any ideas?
Will this work if your heat works then turns cool
is this the correct one for my 2008 f150? Motorcraft YH1884 Heater Blend Door Actuator Assembly
What year truck are you working on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That would be some great info!
Sorry just pissed I can’t a 07 expedition actuator video.
The interior tells all, this is obviously an 07-14 expedition interior. You really cannot mistake it, not sure what the problem is here.