OMG! I’m a 50 year old woman in was able to (after watching this video a couple times) change the rear actuator in my 2005 expedition with NO problems. Thank you for posting this video. You saved me boatloads and gave my kids air conditioning.
This is one of the best produced "car fix" videos I have seen. The lighting is good so you can actually see what is being worked on. Sound is clear. Kudos!
Just finished installing 2 new actuators on my wife's 2016 Expedition, first one didn't do the trick (rear heat wouldn't blow and there was a clicking noise), then my wife found this video and watched it, bought another actuator and did the trick. Thank you for making this video, $30 is much better than $1,000.
So the design is the same on years after 2006. I expected so because Ford doesn't change basic designs often. Thanks for commenting as it confirms later years look like this.
Freaking awesome video. I put up with this stupid noise for months. Few days of research, I was able to order $45 replacement. After contemplating for 3 weeks (because my lack of confidence in mechanical common sense), I decided to do it today. I am so glad I watched this video. I followed exact steps and was able to replace the actuator in 30 minutes. That flex wrench suggestion was right on the money. If I can do it anyone should be able to do it as well.
Used this video to replace both the temperature blend actuator and air distribution actuator for 2005 EB Expedition. Only took about 30-40 minutes and about $80 worth of parts. Spend the money on the wrench, trust me. Great video, thanks!
Great video but it took me about an hour to get that arm lined up right to get it back in. About to do this job a second time (actuator went back out after about 18 months) and am back to refresh my memory. Thanks
Thanks, helped me with the replacement. Turns out the keyed plastic shaft of the new actuator didn't want to go in. Ended up filing the edges of the shaft at the tip then it slid on. Much appreciated!
Thanks to you, I'm able to replace both the rear. First time doing this and it took a little over 30 minutes. There was a local shop was going to charge $240/hr to diagnose. The amazing link is very helpful as well. Now my 2003 Lincoln is blowing cold air again.
Great video!! Thanks for taking the time to do this. I'm replacing the rear blend door actuator on my Expedition for the FIFTH TIME tonight. That's five times in 14 years and 170k miles. This video is very helpful because I don't do it often enough to remember the details.
Thanks for the great and informative video. I spent Sunday morning changing out this door. 45 minutes and done on my 2007 Expedition. My part number was slightly different but the process was the same. Thanks for making my repair a lot less expensive for me!
Changed this part out and it started having the same issues a year later. I believe motorcraft should sell better parts. I appreciate you sharing how to replace it.
I originally searched for the back back way back passenger window mysteriously opened and I didnt know it until it started POURING..... searched how to close it and your video popped up first :-D PERFECT because my back A/C has been tapping LOUDLY for about a year now. I never knew why, I just never used it any more. Its great to know it can be repaired and based on what I just saw, I think I could probably do it myself. The husby wants me to get rid of the car but I am protesting because I LOVE the car. It knows me. I know it. We are one :-D Thank you for posting this !!!
Thanks for this video. Loosening the C-pillar trim is actually very important in being able to get room for your hands inside the rear trim panel. I used a 2x2 by 12-14” long to wedge behind the A/c pipes and trim panel to hold it away to create just enough space. Also, I went to Amazon to buy one of those little ratcheting drivers as he suggested.
A quick tip I learned is, you can remove the actuator, open it up (there's a video on his page for it) and use the shaft (D shape or T shape) as a key... To either move the Air to the tempatures you like or the direction of the vents you like) this is free because you are using the old part... Until you get a new part and it stops the clicking.... Or you can use the old part to make sure you are fixing the right problem... By following the same steps... If moving the shaft manually with the key works, you are doing it right
i did the blend door actuator today and use the X key after taking it apart and seeing all the gear teeth shredded. I only use roof controls so i just turned it to roof. The front ac is noticeably colder than the rear. If i take off this part and use the key does it default to a position like its spring tension or can I turn it to full blast cold and it will stay in that position?
Very thorough teacher, and thank you for helping so many including myself to save a few dollars. I just thought of adding this, I am 6'4 big hands, I dropped the wrench, recovered it but it was hard. Tie a string to the wrench just in case. God Bless.
A million thanks to you! Just what I needed on my 03 Expedition. (BTW any other baseball fans think that Brian is really Joc Pederson doing work on the side?)
You're a lifesaver. Dealer said I needed a new rear AC wanted to charge me over $1,500 bucks. Turns out it was those two Motors that were out. Went to O'Reilly's paid 140 for both together took me 45 minutes to install done. Works like a champ.
Thanks Brian on taking your time on making video's on your repairs that your doing. I have a 2006 Expedition that I've had problems with like the HVAC actuator that I ended up changing myself after watching your helpful video's. Keep up the good work and thank you for your help and secrets on how to repair different items....
I used your technique and replaced the actuator on my 2014 Expedition. Mission accomplished without actually removing any of the trim panels. I wouldn’t say I had “plenty of room” but was able to remove and replace the screws. Mine actually had four screws (the bottom one was a bit tricky). Thanks for the great tips!
You Rock!! This video just saved me tons of money!! This noise has been bugging for some time now and if I knew it was this easy to fix, I would have done it sooner
Great video with awesome hacks to make it easier. 2015 Lincoln Navigator has the same setup. Know that the Navigator had 4 screws making it a little tougher. It is definitely helpful to wedge something in the side panel to widen your working room. Thank you.
Fixed mine today as well. While I had everything open I went a head and changed out both. Also disassembled and potentially fixed my back up camera as well.
Dude, THANK YOU. Simple fix. I was able to fit a 1/4" ratchet down there and it was much faster, didn't need an offset box-end ratchet wrench(although i had one(). The bottom most fastener was unfortunately a philips head screw! Not an 8mm like the other 3. I was still able to use my ratchet with a philips attachment to pop it out. I did NOT put it back in tho, lol, 3 bolts will suffice! You made my troubleshooting that much quicker and better yet gave us the part number AND link. So like 30 bucks and 30 minutes: problem solved.
Saved me a lot of time, thanks for the easy way to remove all the plastic in my 2003 Expedition, I used a piece of molding to prop it open and it was kinda tricky especially the side actuator, the one on top for the heater was my problem, I replaced the one you suggested and did not stop the click, so I replaced the top blend door actuator and VOILA!! But your expert info helped me a million ways thanks!!
Nice video. The front blend door actuator is also changeable without removing the dash as the book says - I have done it. Had to remove the radio and the glovebox. One arm in the radio hold, the other in the glovebox hole. There was very little room to wiggle it out but it was doable. A gear-wrench would have been worth a ton on that job too - unfortunately I did not have one, so about a million little turns with a box wrench, got all the screws out. It was tricky getting the new one in but that too was doable with patience. The big news is front is also doable without taking the truck apart.
Joseph Przechocki I too had to fix the air condition upfront. That was a struggle. I however for some reason bought a 8 mm ratchet wrench while I was picking up the part. I agree with you it made the job easier. Still was very hard though. Plus my wife’s heart for coming out and helping me
Great video. I have a 2013 Ford Expedition. I ordered the part for the 2013 Ford Expedition but be aware that there are several different types of these actuators in the HVAC System in a Expedition. I purchased the one which was supposed to fit the Dual Zone Automatic Temperature Control for the Lower and Upper Air Mains. The actuator that I needed is the HVAC Heater Blend Door Actuator Auxiliary (passenger side next to the 3rd row - the lower actuator). The actual A/C Rear unit in my 2013 Expedition looks just like the one in the video except your auxiliary label say "EXP AUX", mine says "2009 EXP AUX" guessing that the 2009-2013 are the same. Also the wheel base of your vehicle can determine which part is needed. Still haven't figured out which part is needed because if I google the part numbers on the unit 262 11114132 it leads me to the Dorman 604-260 but is says it does not fit the 2013 Expedition XL. I even searched by VIN. The search by VIN says I need the Dorman 604-277 but if I search by 2009 Expedition is says I need the 604-260. So I obviously have a 2013 Expedition with a 2009 Auxiliary, is that normal? I will probably purchase both parts and see which works even though, I'm thinking connections might be different, even if the actuator stem fits into the auxiliary. Any advice besides pay a dealership $$$ to install a $20 part? Thanks again for the guidance in video above!
Great video man. After replacing my actuator on the side, I found out I realized the bad actuator was the one on top. I have a 2004 expedition. The side actuator is a D shape shank. The actuator on top is a cross shape shank. So after replacing the actuator on the side (which was still good) I removed the bad actuator on top. I opened the housing on the side actuator (the one I removed) and used the good gears to replace the bad gears on the bad actuator on top. Pretty simple fix. Just note the position of the shank before you open the housing.
Thanks!! Still have my 2007 Lincoln Navigator and needed this video (same). Just FYI...when I replaced the one in the video, I still had the same clicking noise as before. Apparently there are two of these inside the panel. The one I needed to replace is right behind the cup holder. So you don't need to remove anything but the cup holder and the flat tray. Thanks for the video!!!!
I just fixed my 2003 today. It was the second time the teeth broke since we purchased it back in 2003. I used your amazon links for the part and a fuel filter. I had to take the seat belts and side panels off to get access to it.
OK, so right off the bat, great info! This video, along with the one for the air direction actuator, helped me get my rear HVAC working right! Caveats? Yes. The screws are a bitch to reach, the the flex-head ratchet would have made a big difference. Plus, there was an extra screw on the bottom of my actuator (4 screws instead of 3). This was an unexpected surprise. Heads up to anyone planning on using the Dorman 604-277. The shaft on this model is larger than the OEM unit. I had to file it down on the three flat sides, and was finally able to get it to fit. Patience, and trial and error, got me to a final solution. As other units are available, you may want to factor this in to your planning.
Just wanted to say Thank You. As a new owner of a 2000 Expedition, your videos have helped a lot. My problem is the back a/c blows ice cold, the front is crap. Not sure if the expansion valve is stopped up or what yet. Guess I will be tearing into something tomorrow. Thanks again.
Great video and great shortcut vs the "official" repair guide. Been putting off this repair since the seasons changed, and we didn't need the rear heat to work lol Just wanted to point out that the ratcheting wrench isn't REQUIRED, just makes it a bit easier. Just pulled mine out with a 3/8 drive AND 1/4 adapter for my 8mm socket. Just had to pull back a little further and CAREFULLY get my crankin arm into the void behind the panel.
Thank you for this video. It really did help me replacing the actuator on a 2007 Expedition. I do hope you gave your supervisor a treat for making sure everything went smoothly. I'm now a subscriber. Also after I changed the actuator it was still making the popping noise. I found another actuator on the front top of the rear unit that was bad too. Changed it out and everything works like it's supposed to. Thanks again.
Hey just wanted to tell you that your video was awesome. Followed the links and ordered my part and tool. I was done in less than 30 minutes. Thanks a ton. Fixed it right up.
+FordTechMakuloco so it works but it is intermittent. I did not replace the actuator that changes from floor to ceiling though. That one does make a popping noise. So even though I never use it in the floor could that one be causing my ceiling air to be warm sometimes. Like I said. The rear ceiling air will blow super cold 50% of the time. I know the actuator that I did replace is not binding because I checked it like you said before installing the new one
Nice, Ford Corp really lost a good man. I could see that you were more comfortable here which is a great thing. Continued great luck with your new venture..
Curiosity, I think the back has a filter for the orifice. I'm a residential and commercial HVAC tech, never worked on cars, but was looking at mine a few days ago.
FordTechMakuloco can there b a freon leak back there I'm hearing a hissing like a leak sound does it have any ac lines my vehicle is leaking freon for sure checked the front with ac freon dye and only saw the dye in the high and low ports.. 1 12 oz can of freon lasts about 2-3 weeks because I can feel the rear vents not cooling
Hi there..it was a great video...your video shows three screws..Mine had 4..and the bottom one was a real bear to get out, my wife had to get her skinny hands in there...other than that it was great. Originally I thought it was the top actuator. I purchased it, and put it in...still making the noise...I opened it up and noticed a bunch of teteh broken...probably was going anyway..SO i replaced both. Amazon sent me the little short 8mm wrench, and I used electrical ties to make an extension for it..it worked. thanks
Thank you great video, after following your steps I found that it was the one on top not the side, but still you got me to where I needed to be "and for that I thank you".
+FordTechMakuloco I noticed at the end you tested the diverter door instead of the blend door wouldn't you switch from warm to cool to test the blend door?
Thanks for the video. Replaced mine and works fine. I have a leak in one of my rear ac hoses and was wondering if you could show how to fully remove that quarter trim piece so I can get full access to the area and figure out which one is leaking? Mine is a 05 Eddie Bauer. Any thoughts on which hose to look at first?
Hey Makuloco! You're the man. I love your videos. You've saved my butt multiple times. I have a question. Would the repair be the same for a 2005 6.0 Excursion? I'm getting AC in the back but no heat. Winter is approaching and my kids need to be warm back there. Thanks buddy. Keep making great vids!
Thanks for the support video. Really helps. But I still have clicking in rear area with a new actuator installed and the clicking still happens with it unplugged? Is their a second actuator in there or something else causing the clicking? It happens running AC which works but clicks in the rear door area. If I turn AC off it sounds more like a thumping heart beat sound?
Thank you for the video I now fix the problem with the rear ac and heater on my expedition my expedition has 240887 miles 4.6 2V great engine my brother F150 4.6 2V 4X4 has 359.000 miles and still running strong
Hi. Back again. I went ahead and ordered the part # YH-1767 for my 03' Ford Expedition XLT 5.4. This one is the one on the side. I Got that. It felt liked the other one on top was making a noise as well as going by feel. The part # I though that was frequently bought with the other one was YH-1743. Also got the ratcheting wrench as well as the TEKTON 5873 Door Panel Remover. Hope you can give me the positive outlook I'm expecting. Sure hope to hear from you soon!! BTW. I really enjoyed your video which inspired me to do this job myself. Thank You!
Since there are two actuators be sure to know which one is clicking before replacing it. One way is to touch it with your fingers to feel the click. Another way would be to unplug it to see if that stops the clicking.
My actuator has 4 screws holding it down! Took awhile but finally got it done. Only replaced 3 screws hope that is ok. The little flex ratchet wrench is well worth it.
I appreciate the video to take apart the panels. It worked great. I have a 2003 Mercury Mountaineer and the assembly is on the drivers side. Would you happen to know what else might be wrong, I disconnected the actuator and still heard clicking coming from the black assembly box the actuator was connected to. I cannot find any other information out there for my car. If you could help that would be great before I go any further or pay 100's of dollars to have a mechanic do it. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. Definitely a help when pulling all the panels and trim parts. This was for a 2005 Expedition. And in my case, I also had 4 mounting screws to remove. The two you show removing were the easy ones! Ha! For me the Motorcraft stock was YH1749 with a Ford part # 3L1Z 19E616 AA. I took the old part to Ford to insure I got the right one and came away with the same part number with the exception that the two last letters were AB on the new part.I did remove the old "D" shaft from the broke unit to check for unrestricted movement of the Blend Door, noting the relative position of the flat side of the "D" when inserting and removing the shaft. This aided in replacing the new unit. Sure enough, several teeth of the smaller gear were scattered in the grease in the broken unit.
An added thought. Several months ago when we noticed the clicking sound, I removed the cup holder and top tray to find which unit was making the clicks. Reach down and lightly touch the blend actuator and also the distribution actuator. You can feel the one causing the clicks. I unplugged the suspect actuator to confirm the correct one. After all the naggin', I finally broke down and replaced it in cooler AZ weather! Now, on to fixing other nags!
Thanks for the video but a word of advise, when troubleshooting make sure you identify which actuator needs replacing. At 4:18 you can see a second actuator laying flat horizontally (same yellowish shaped part seen towards the top of the cupholder opening). That one can be removed and replaced without needing to pull the clipped panels out (just by removing the cup holder and top access panel). I replaced the side one in the video and didnt know about the second one, but that one is much easier to get to and replace.
Thank you for this video! Had to replace both real actuators on our 2003 expedition. your videos made it a piece of cake!! Oh do you have videos on replacing the keyless entry keypad on the drivers door also?
I got another blend door (I Think) issue. Got the 2005 Expedition 9/2015 hot and cold worked well in the front now it's just cold air(rear hot and cold) I replaced the front actuator (I used old front actuator in rear blend door, perfect fit) as another one of your videos stated(easy thanks) but still get cold air. SO! how can I cut into hvac box and manually move blend door(it's cold outside) till I can replace it?
This is very helpful video. Do you have a video how to trace the leaking air conditioning? I hear a breading like psssss sound every few seconds while the aircon is on. I can hear it from the rear. Mechanic only top it up with coolant but will ran out after a month.
Thanks for your videos. Very useful. I have a 2008 Expedition Limited EL. The AC control unit is stuck on auto. Is this a full AC module replacement or just the controller card replacement? Do you have a video replacing either? Thanks
How did it finally work out, regarding the part numbers for the rear top actuator and the side-mounted blend door actuators? I have a 2010 Expedition with dual zone HVAC, and have been dealing with the same issue. The top one is the Motorcraft YH-1743; looks like the side actuator is the YH-1767 shown in the video., but I can't be sure until I have removed it. While I have a ratcheting head 8 mm wrench, when I replaced the front blend door actuator, located above and behind the radio, I can't remember whether or not I couldn't find the nice Chrome ratchet wrench when I needed it, or if it was too big for the tiny space I was working in. My solution was to take a short, flat, thin reversible ratchet that took 1/4" hex bits, then put an 8 mm hex socket in it, and cut the long part of that socket shaft off at the top of the back of the bit holder. Occasionally I had to put the socket on first, then slip my cheap, flat ratchet wrench over the socket to get it to work, but I didn't have to remove the radio or any parts other than the broken actuator, but I did drop the glove box door to get room to get my hand in there to keep from losing screws. Ford says it's any 8 hour job. After you've done it once on the front top actuator, with the right tool, it's 10 minutes tops.
My issue seems to be with the actuator showing at the 4:19 mark of the video. The one on top. Not sure if it is the same part but I'm guessing a similar process.
We have an Explorer XLT 2005. We have the blower problem you discussed in a previous video but also a constant clicking coming from the back of the vehicle. It clicks even if you have the blower turned off and there is no heat or air running. Could this still be the Actuator? Thanks for all the helpful videos!
Is this for the roof to ceiling air adjustment, or for the hot to cold adjustment? I thought it was for the temperature but at the end of the video you cycled from the ceiling to floor. My expedition is only blowing hot air from the rear vents, so I'm wondering if this is the part which needs to be changed or if it is a different issue entirely. Thank you for your videos, they help so much!
Thanks so much for the video! I now have back-air! Woot! BUT, there's a little black plastic piece behind the big panel that you had to pull back that is loose. I don't think I have it seated correctly, know what I'm talking about? It's a black plastic "bar" with some little angles (kind of like a small "L" bracket you hang on a wall for a shelf) It's got several screw holes that line up perfectly with the screws behind the big panel, but I can't figure out how that black plastic bar and trim piece fit back together correctly. Any chance you have a video showing/explaining that?
I got the same problem in my expedition 2006, my question is which actuator I have to change? three moths ago the noise start, but now hot air is coming from the ceiling vent when the a/c is on.... like your videos Brian.
Ahhh! where were you 3 years ago!!! took my 03 Expy panels all off... and found out that Ford dealer gave me the wrong actuator. got the one under the cupholder. Grrrr. had to go back, re order etc. several days with the back of my Ex looking like it was rescued from a chop shop :)
Changed out the Blend door motor on my 2002 Exploer. Sure enough, the gears were stripped. Amazon to the rescue. Doorman PN 604-202 for $30 and free shipping. Ordered on Saturday, here on Monday. You gotta love PRIME shipping! Explorers are a little more involved getting at the blend door motor. Complete inner panel removal on the drivers side rear and you have to unbolt the HVAC unit to get at the motor(s).
Hi thanks for posting this video, do you happen to know if a 1999 Ford Expedition has two A/C units I found one to fill in the front end, but wanted to know if the backside had one too?
I watched this video and then ordered the part because I heard the tapping flap in the rear. After replacing the part while watching your video. The flap still taps when I turn on the rear air. Do you have any suggestions on what to look at next?
Thanks for this vid. I was able to fix this myself. I have a quick question. Do the 05 Ford Expedition have cabin air filter? If so, where is it located? Thanks in advance
I don’t know if this was already post on here but on my 05 expedition Eddie Bauer there are 4 screws, one on the bottom of the actuator and I really think that panel that the cup holder sits upon needs to come off to be able to get to the 4th screw to take the screw out. Unless I’m incorrect?
Great Video Brain! Any Tips on the rear '05 Explorer actuators?? Both of mine have failed. Obviously I know they are on the left side opposite from the Expeditions, but they look very hard to get to..
Chris Rippy No real tips but you will have to remove the mounting bolts for the air box and the two nuts down below next to the a/c lines to slide it away from the body to change any actuators.
The temperature blend door controls hot and cold. To the front is another controller for the air flow door. Upper (Ceiling )and lower(vents to your lap area) air flow. 2 Different part numbers. Just for those wondering. Before you change the wrong one put your hand on each one to find the one skipping.
great video and very helpful. have you tried or have a video for 2006 ford explorer eddie bauer 4.0L. The actuator are very hard to get to? any help you can provide is greatly appreciated
Hey Brian! Out of curiosity, is this the same issue that kind of sounds like a kick drum noise in the back when the rear air is blowing? I noticed it is a bit louder when on the feet but still noticeable when on the head? I would describe it as a click, but more of a thump noise. Thank you so much in advance!
Open it up like he shows and place your finger on the actuator. If it's clicking you will feel it. This way you will know which one if any is making the sound.
This and the front version awesome. Unfortunately, in the front version you didn't mention about the blend door binding. In my case, when I took off the actuator, the shaft was broken off. I thought it was just brittle but when installing the new actuator, it is clear the door is bound up. Sure wish I knew what to do next. Looks like BIG trouble:-( any help would be appreciated.
Me and Wifey replaced both because of this video, CarX would have charged at least 130.00 to do it, but they lied to use about other car issues that we actually don't have. So thank you Sir from me and wifey.
OK, so you showed us the Expedition and it's rear HVAC, Now does the Explorer have anything similar? I noticed some condensation dripping by the rear of my explorer, is there another HVAC system in the driver's side panel rear? Is there also a filter that needs to be replaced there also? I noticed the dealership put some aluminum tape over some vents in the rear of my Explorer? I have a 2017 explorer, xlt, 4x4, V-6 no turbos?
OMG! I’m a 50 year old woman in was able to (after watching this video a couple times) change the rear actuator in my 2005 expedition with NO problems. Thank you for posting this video. You saved me boatloads and gave my kids air conditioning.
Nice!
Kathleen Medi
Good job, Mom!!
This is one of the best produced "car fix" videos I have seen. The lighting is good so you can actually see what is being worked on. Sound is clear. Kudos!
Just finished installing 2 new actuators on my wife's 2016 Expedition, first one didn't do the trick (rear heat wouldn't blow and there was a clicking noise), then my wife found this video and watched it, bought another actuator and did the trick. Thank you for making this video, $30 is much better than $1,000.
So the design is the same on years after 2006. I expected so because Ford doesn't change basic designs often. Thanks for commenting as it confirms later years look like this.
Freaking awesome video. I put up with this stupid noise for months. Few days of research, I was able to order $45 replacement. After contemplating for 3 weeks (because my lack of confidence in mechanical common sense), I decided to do it today. I am so glad I watched this video. I followed exact steps and was able to replace the actuator in 30 minutes. That flex wrench suggestion was right on the money. If I can do it anyone should be able to do it as well.
You’d be surprised at what you can fix on your own with a little common sense and a good TH-cam video.
Can I borrow that flex wrench??!!
Used this video to replace both the temperature blend actuator and air distribution actuator for 2005 EB Expedition. Only took about 30-40 minutes and about $80 worth of parts. Spend the money on the wrench, trust me. Great video, thanks!
Great video but it took me about an hour to get that arm lined up right to get it back in. About to do this job a second time (actuator went back out after about 18 months) and am back to refresh my memory. Thanks
Thanks, helped me with the replacement. Turns out the keyed plastic shaft of the new actuator didn't want to go in. Ended up filing the edges of the shaft at the tip then it slid on. Much appreciated!
Well Done ! I completed the replacement in < 30 mins. I appreciate your efforts; they are not in vain !
Thanks to you, I'm able to replace both the rear. First time doing this and it took a little over 30 minutes. There was a local shop was going to charge $240/hr to diagnose.
The amazing link is very helpful as well. Now my 2003 Lincoln is blowing cold air again.
Great video!! Thanks for taking the time to do this. I'm replacing the rear blend door actuator on my Expedition for the FIFTH TIME tonight. That's five times in 14 years and 170k miles. This video is very helpful because I don't do it often enough to remember the details.
Thanks for the great and informative video. I spent Sunday morning changing out this door. 45 minutes and done on my 2007 Expedition. My part number was slightly different but the process was the same. Thanks for making my repair a lot less expensive for me!
I also have a 2007 Ford EXPEDITION. Do u have the part number? I want to get rid of that clicking noise
Changed this part out and it started having the same issues a year later. I believe motorcraft should sell better parts.
I appreciate you sharing how to replace it.
I originally searched for the back back way back passenger window mysteriously opened and I didnt know it until it started POURING..... searched how to close it and your video popped up first :-D PERFECT because my back A/C has been tapping LOUDLY for about a year now. I never knew why, I just never used it any more. Its great to know it can be repaired and based on what I just saw, I think I could probably do it myself. The husby wants me to get rid of the car but I am protesting because I LOVE the car. It knows me. I know it. We are one :-D Thank you for posting this !!!
Thanks for this video. Loosening the C-pillar trim is actually very important in being able to get room for your hands inside the rear trim panel. I used a 2x2 by 12-14” long to wedge behind the A/c pipes and trim panel to hold it away to create just enough space. Also, I went to Amazon to buy one of those little ratcheting drivers as he suggested.
A quick tip I learned is, you can remove the actuator, open it up (there's a video on his page for it) and use the shaft (D shape or T shape) as a key... To either move the Air to the tempatures you like or the direction of the vents you like) this is free because you are using the old part... Until you get a new part and it stops the clicking.... Or you can use the old part to make sure you are fixing the right problem... By following the same steps... If moving the shaft manually with the key works, you are doing it right
i did the blend door actuator today and use the X key after taking it apart and seeing all the gear teeth shredded. I only use roof controls so i just turned it to roof. The front ac is noticeably colder than the rear. If i take off this part and use the key does it default to a position like its spring tension or can I turn it to full blast cold and it will stay in that position?
Very thorough teacher, and thank you for helping so many including myself to save a few dollars. I just thought of adding this, I am 6'4 big hands, I dropped the wrench, recovered it but it was hard. Tie a string to the wrench just in case. God Bless.
A million thanks to you! Just what I needed on my 03 Expedition. (BTW any other baseball fans think that Brian is really Joc Pederson doing work on the side?)
You're a lifesaver. Dealer said I needed a new rear AC wanted to charge me over $1,500 bucks. Turns out it was those two Motors that were out. Went to O'Reilly's paid 140 for both together took me 45 minutes to install done. Works like a champ.
+Irineo Uriostegui Nice!
A jumping Hi-5 to you!!! Looks like I'm going to be able to help some friends get that clicking noise to stop. Truly appreciate you and the video.
Thanks Brian on taking your time on making video's on your repairs that your doing. I have a 2006 Expedition that I've had problems with like the HVAC actuator that I ended up changing myself after watching your helpful video's. Keep up the good work and thank you for your help and secrets on how to repair different items....
I used your technique and replaced the actuator on my 2014 Expedition. Mission accomplished without actually removing any of the trim panels. I wouldn’t say I had “plenty of room” but was able to remove and replace the screws. Mine actually had four screws (the bottom one was a bit tricky). Thanks for the great tips!
Modern designs are compact. This is a typical amount of space and reasonably can be called plenty.
You Rock!! This video just saved me tons of money!! This noise has been bugging for some time now and if I knew it was this easy to fix, I would have done it sooner
You always take time to explain why you do what you do to get the job done, Thanks again
Great video with awesome hacks to make it easier. 2015 Lincoln Navigator has the same setup. Know that the Navigator had 4 screws making it a little tougher. It is definitely helpful to wedge something in the side panel to widen your working room. Thank you.
Fixed mine today as well. While I had everything open I went a head and changed out both. Also disassembled and potentially fixed my back up camera as well.
Dude, THANK YOU. Simple fix. I was able to fit a 1/4" ratchet down there and it was much faster, didn't need an offset box-end ratchet wrench(although i had one(). The bottom most fastener was unfortunately a philips head screw! Not an 8mm like the other 3. I was still able to use my ratchet with a philips attachment to pop it out. I did NOT put it back in tho, lol, 3 bolts will suffice!
You made my troubleshooting that much quicker and better yet gave us the part number AND link. So like 30 bucks and 30 minutes: problem solved.
Saved me a lot of time, thanks for the easy way to remove all the plastic in my 2003 Expedition, I used a piece of molding to prop it open and it was kinda tricky especially the side actuator, the one on top for the heater was my problem, I replaced the one you suggested and did not stop the click, so I replaced the top blend door actuator and VOILA!! But your expert info helped me a million ways thanks!!
It helped me a lot... thank you very much, greetings from Cholula, Mexico
Nice video. The front blend door actuator is also changeable without removing the dash as the book says - I have done it. Had to remove the radio and the glovebox. One arm in the radio hold, the other in the glovebox hole. There was very little room to wiggle it out but it was doable. A gear-wrench would have been worth a ton on that job too - unfortunately I did not have one, so about a million little turns with a box wrench, got all the screws out. It was tricky getting the new one in but that too was doable with patience. The big news is front is also doable without taking the truck apart.
Joseph Przechocki I too had to fix the air condition upfront. That was a struggle. I however for some reason bought a 8 mm ratchet wrench while I was picking up the part. I agree with you it made the job easier. Still was very hard though. Plus my wife’s heart for coming out and helping me
Great video. I have a 2013 Ford Expedition. I ordered the part for the 2013 Ford Expedition but be aware that there are several different types of these actuators in the HVAC System in a Expedition. I purchased the one which was supposed to fit the Dual Zone Automatic Temperature Control for the Lower and Upper Air Mains. The actuator that I needed is the HVAC Heater Blend Door Actuator Auxiliary (passenger side next to the 3rd row - the lower actuator). The actual A/C Rear unit in my 2013 Expedition looks just like the one in the video except your auxiliary label say "EXP AUX", mine says "2009 EXP AUX" guessing that the 2009-2013 are the same. Also the wheel base of your vehicle can determine which part is needed. Still haven't figured out which part is needed because if I google the part numbers on the unit 262 11114132 it leads me to the Dorman 604-260 but is says it does not fit the 2013 Expedition XL. I even searched by VIN. The search by VIN says I need the Dorman 604-277 but if I search by 2009 Expedition is says I need the 604-260. So I obviously have a 2013 Expedition with a 2009 Auxiliary, is that normal? I will probably purchase both parts and see which works even though, I'm thinking connections might be different, even if the actuator stem fits into the auxiliary. Any advice besides pay a dealership $$$ to install a $20 part? Thanks again for the guidance in video above!
Great video man. After replacing my actuator on the side, I found out I realized the bad actuator was the one on top. I have a 2004 expedition. The side actuator is a D shape shank. The actuator on top is a cross shape shank.
So after replacing the actuator on the side (which was still good) I removed the bad actuator on top. I opened the housing on the side actuator (the one I removed) and used the good gears to replace the bad gears on the bad actuator on top. Pretty simple fix. Just note the position of the shank before you open the housing.
Thanks!! Still have my 2007 Lincoln Navigator and needed this video (same). Just FYI...when I replaced the one in the video, I still had the same clicking noise as before. Apparently there are two of these inside the panel. The one I needed to replace is right behind the cup holder. So you don't need to remove anything but the cup holder and the flat tray. Thanks for the video!!!!
We have one at the shop right now same car also and because of your vid you safe me some time thank you
u remind me of diesel tech Ron , he was a good man , he help me out with so much on my 6.0 now i found u thanks for the videos
I just fixed my 2003 today. It was the second time the teeth broke since we purchased it back in 2003. I used your amazon links for the part and a fuel filter. I had to take the seat belts and side panels off to get access to it.
This was really helpful for my 04 expi ❤❤❤you saved me a few dollars and lots of time on this by watching your video
OK, so right off the bat, great info! This video, along with the one for the air direction actuator, helped me get my rear HVAC working right! Caveats? Yes. The screws are a bitch to reach, the the flex-head ratchet would have made a big difference. Plus, there was an extra screw on the bottom of my actuator (4 screws instead of 3). This was an unexpected surprise. Heads up to anyone planning on using the Dorman 604-277. The shaft on this model is larger than the OEM unit. I had to file it down on the three flat sides, and was finally able to get it to fit. Patience, and trial and error, got me to a final solution. As other units are available, you may want to factor this in to your planning.
Just wanted to say Thank You. As a new owner of a 2000 Expedition, your videos have helped a lot. My problem is the back a/c blows ice cold, the front is crap. Not sure if the expansion valve is stopped up or what yet. Guess I will be tearing into something tomorrow. Thanks again.
Great video and great shortcut vs the "official" repair guide. Been putting off this repair since the seasons changed, and we didn't need the rear heat to work lol
Just wanted to point out that the ratcheting wrench isn't REQUIRED, just makes it a bit easier. Just pulled mine out with a 3/8 drive AND 1/4 adapter for my 8mm socket. Just had to pull back a little further and CAREFULLY get my crankin arm into the void behind the panel.
Great video, changed both blend doors in one shot. Everything clicked back together. Awesome💥
Thank you for this video. It really did help me replacing the actuator on a 2007 Expedition. I do hope you gave your supervisor a treat for making sure everything went smoothly. I'm now a subscriber. Also after I changed the actuator it was still making the popping noise. I found another actuator on the front top of the rear unit that was bad too. Changed it out and everything works like it's supposed to. Thanks again.
Hey just wanted to tell you that your video was awesome. Followed the links and ordered my part and tool. I was done in less than 30 minutes. Thanks a ton. Fixed it right up.
+mjsummer Nice!!
+FordTechMakuloco so it works but it is intermittent. I did not replace the actuator that changes from floor to ceiling though. That one does make a popping noise. So even though I never use it in the floor could that one be causing my ceiling air to be warm sometimes. Like I said. The rear ceiling air will blow super cold 50% of the time. I know the actuator that I did replace is not binding because I checked it like you said before installing the new one
So who DID NOT like this video?????
Probably some dealer principal/owner. hahaaaa.
Problem solved, rear air service is working now. Thanks so much brother!!
Thank you for your video. I was able to get it done in 30 minutes. It was easy to follow.
Nice, Ford Corp really lost a good man. I could see that you were more comfortable here which is a great thing. Continued great luck with your new venture..
Thanks I am not the best tech out there but pretty darn good. Good enough anyway.
FordTechMakuloco One that can do it and show it is the best tech out there.
FordTechMakuloco is there any other reason why the rear ac won't work? It blows out warm air just not cold. The front AC works fine. Thanks
Curiosity, I think the back has a filter for the orifice. I'm a residential and commercial HVAC tech, never worked on cars, but was looking at mine a few days ago.
FordTechMakuloco can there b a freon leak back there I'm hearing a hissing like a leak sound does it have any ac lines my vehicle is leaking freon for sure checked the front with ac freon dye and only saw the dye in the high and low ports.. 1 12 oz can of freon lasts about 2-3 weeks because I can feel the rear vents not cooling
Hi there..it was a great video...your video shows three screws..Mine had 4..and the bottom one was a real bear to get out, my wife had to get her skinny hands in there...other than that it was great. Originally I thought it was the top actuator. I purchased it, and put it in...still making the noise...I opened it up and noticed a bunch of teteh broken...probably was going anyway..SO i replaced both. Amazon sent me the little short 8mm wrench, and I used electrical ties to make an extension for it..it worked.
thanks
Thank you great video, after following your steps I found that it was the one on top not the side, but still you got me to where I needed to be "and for that I thank you".
+Juan Carlos Yup I have videos on both
+FordTechMakuloco I noticed at the end you tested the diverter door instead of the blend door wouldn't you switch from warm to cool to test the blend door?
+FordTechMakuloco
your expedition is really clean props to you man
Thanks for the video. Replaced mine and works fine. I have a leak in one of my rear ac hoses and was wondering if you could show how to fully remove that quarter trim piece so I can get full access to the area and figure out which one is leaking? Mine is a 05 Eddie Bauer. Any thoughts on which hose to look at first?
Hey Makuloco! You're the man. I love your videos. You've saved my butt multiple times. I have a question. Would the repair be the same for a 2005 6.0 Excursion? I'm getting AC in the back but no heat. Winter is approaching and my kids need to be warm back there. Thanks buddy. Keep making great vids!
Thanks for the support video. Really helps. But I still have clicking in rear area with a new actuator installed and the clicking still happens with it unplugged? Is their a second actuator in there or something else causing the clicking? It happens running AC which works but clicks in the rear door area. If I turn AC off it sounds more like a thumping heart beat sound?
Yes there is a second actuator on the top left.
Thank you for the video I now fix the problem with the rear ac and heater on my expedition my expedition has 240887 miles 4.6 2V great engine my brother F150 4.6 2V 4X4 has 359.000 miles and still running strong
Thanks man this actuator gave me turrets for about a year. I don’t know what kind of camera you got but I’m getting one
Hi. Back again. I went ahead and ordered the part # YH-1767 for my 03' Ford Expedition XLT 5.4. This one is the one on the side. I Got that. It felt liked the other one on top was making a noise as well as going by feel. The part # I though that was frequently bought with the other one was YH-1743. Also got the ratcheting wrench as well as the TEKTON 5873 Door Panel Remover. Hope you can give me the positive outlook I'm expecting. Sure hope to hear from you soon!! BTW. I really enjoyed your video which inspired me to do this job myself. Thank You!
Since there are two actuators be sure to know which one is clicking before replacing it. One way is to touch it with your fingers to feel the click. Another way would be to unplug it to see if that stops the clicking.
Perfect video. Easy to follow. I had it done in under 30 minutes.
My actuator has 4 screws holding it down! Took awhile but finally got it done. Only replaced 3 screws hope that is ok. The little flex ratchet wrench is well worth it.
I appreciate the video to take apart the panels. It worked great. I have a 2003 Mercury Mountaineer and the assembly is on the drivers side. Would you happen to know what else might be wrong, I disconnected the actuator and still heard clicking coming from the black assembly box the actuator was connected to. I cannot find any other information out there for my car. If you could help that would be great before I go any further or pay 100's of dollars to have a mechanic do it. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. Definitely a help when pulling all the panels and trim parts. This was for a 2005 Expedition. And in my case, I also had 4 mounting screws to remove. The two you show removing were the easy ones! Ha! For me the Motorcraft stock was YH1749 with a Ford part # 3L1Z 19E616 AA. I took the old part to Ford to insure I got the right one and came away with the same part number with the exception that the two last letters were AB on the new part.I did remove the old "D" shaft from the broke unit to check for unrestricted movement of the Blend Door, noting the relative position of the flat side of the "D" when inserting and removing the shaft. This aided in replacing the new unit. Sure enough, several teeth of the smaller gear were scattered in the grease in the broken unit.
An added thought. Several months ago when we noticed the clicking sound, I removed the cup holder and top tray to find which unit was making the clicks. Reach down and lightly touch the blend actuator and also the distribution actuator. You can feel the one causing the clicks. I unplugged the suspect actuator to confirm the correct one. After all the naggin', I finally broke down and replaced it in cooler AZ weather! Now, on to fixing other nags!
Thanks for your help. Unfortunately my actuator has a screw in the bottom. Very difficult to get out.
Thanks man .This video helped me out a lot. Noise free
He is AWESOME... But can you tell me how to get my second row seat to flip up like that? I can't figure it out, I have a 2003 expedition
Thanks for the video but a word of advise, when troubleshooting make sure you identify which actuator needs replacing. At 4:18 you can see a second actuator laying flat horizontally (same yellowish shaped part seen towards the top of the cupholder opening). That one can be removed and replaced without needing to pull the clipped panels out (just by removing the cup holder and top access panel). I replaced the side one in the video and didnt know about the second one, but that one is much easier to get to and replace.
Thank you for this video! Had to replace both real actuators on our 2003 expedition. your videos made it a piece of cake!! Oh do you have videos on replacing the keyless entry keypad on the drivers door also?
Great vid! it is fixed!! blowing ice and no more clicking!!! PS: loved watching the dog, mine is all about field trips IN THE TRUCK!!!!
Thanks for this video I will be removing the trim panels like this soon to run some 1/0 power wire for a sound system
I got another blend door (I Think) issue. Got the 2005 Expedition 9/2015 hot and cold worked well in the front now it's just cold air(rear hot and cold) I replaced the front actuator (I used old front actuator in rear blend door, perfect fit) as another one of your videos stated(easy thanks) but still get cold air. SO! how can I cut into hvac box and manually move blend door(it's cold outside) till I can replace it?
This is very helpful video.
Do you have a video how to trace the leaking air conditioning? I hear a breading like psssss sound every few seconds while the aircon is on. I can hear it from the rear. Mechanic only top it up with coolant but will ran out after a month.
+Edwin Banaag A/C dye is the only way.
Thanks for your videos. Very useful. I have a 2008 Expedition Limited EL. The AC control unit is stuck on auto. Is this a full AC module replacement or just the controller card replacement? Do you have a video replacing either? Thanks
Thank you AGAIN for your awesome videos!
How did it finally work out, regarding the part numbers for the rear top actuator and the side-mounted blend door actuators? I have a 2010 Expedition with dual zone HVAC, and have been dealing with the same issue. The top one is the Motorcraft YH-1743; looks like the side actuator is the YH-1767 shown in the video., but I can't be sure until I have removed it. While I have a ratcheting head 8 mm wrench, when I replaced the front blend door actuator, located above and behind the radio, I can't remember whether or not I couldn't find the nice Chrome ratchet wrench when I needed it, or if it was too big for the tiny space I was working in. My solution was to take a short, flat, thin reversible ratchet that took 1/4" hex bits, then put an 8 mm hex socket in it, and cut the long part of that socket shaft off at the top of the back of the bit holder. Occasionally I had to put the socket on first, then slip my cheap, flat ratchet wrench over the socket to get it to work, but I didn't have to remove the radio or any parts other than the broken actuator, but I did drop the glove box door to get room to get my hand in there to keep from losing screws. Ford says it's any 8 hour job. After you've done it once on the front top actuator, with the right tool, it's 10 minutes tops.
My issue seems to be with the actuator showing at the 4:19 mark of the video. The one on top. Not sure if it is the same part but I'm guessing a similar process.
My exact issue. Thanks for the high quality info!
Really good video, thanks for making it easy. The only thing wish I you would have done is let us hear the noise before it was fixed.
We have an Explorer XLT 2005. We have the blower problem you discussed in a previous video but also a constant clicking coming from the back of the vehicle. It clicks even if you have the blower turned off and there is no heat or air running. Could this still be the Actuator? Thanks for all the helpful videos!
Jake Whitney Yes any clicking from back there is either actuator has failed I have videos on both.
i unplugged ours a few months ago and now just ordered one. I've put it off long enough lol
Is this for the roof to ceiling air adjustment, or for the hot to cold adjustment? I thought it was for the temperature but at the end of the video you cycled from the ceiling to floor. My expedition is only blowing hot air from the rear vents, so I'm wondering if this is the part which needs to be changed or if it is a different issue entirely. Thank you for your videos, they help so much!
Took about an hour and only $75 for OEM part. Thanks!
Had to watch the pup a few times. So adorable!
I got a dog in my panels??? awesome vid, I have a 05 Lincoln Aviator and you just saved me big.
Thanks so much for the video! I now have back-air! Woot! BUT, there's a little black plastic piece behind the big panel that you had to pull back that is loose. I don't think I have it seated correctly, know what I'm talking about? It's a black plastic "bar" with some little angles (kind of like a small "L" bracket you hang on a wall for a shelf) It's got several screw holes that line up perfectly with the screws behind the big panel, but I can't figure out how that black plastic bar and trim piece fit back together correctly. Any chance you have a video showing/explaining that?
I got the same problem in my expedition 2006, my question is which actuator I have to change? three moths ago the noise start, but now hot air is coming from the ceiling vent when the a/c is on.... like your videos Brian.
Ahhh! where were you 3 years ago!!! took my 03 Expy panels all off... and found out that Ford dealer gave me the wrong actuator. got the one under the cupholder. Grrrr. had to go back, re order etc. several days with the back of my Ex looking like it was rescued from a chop shop :)
Changed out the Blend door motor on my 2002 Exploer. Sure enough, the gears were stripped. Amazon to the rescue. Doorman PN 604-202 for $30 and free shipping. Ordered on Saturday, here on Monday. You gotta love PRIME shipping!
Explorers are a little more involved getting at the blend door motor. Complete inner panel removal on the drivers side rear and you have to unbolt the HVAC unit to get at the motor(s).
Thank you so much and I have saved a couples of hundreds from the mechanic
Thanks for the video. I was able to save on the replacement part and do it myself.
Hi thanks for posting this video, do you happen to know if a 1999 Ford Expedition has two A/C units I found one to fill in the front end, but wanted to know if the backside had one too?
Great video, and I love your step by step approach. Do you have any advice for changing the front actuator on an 04 Lincoln Navigator?
I watched this video and then ordered the part because I heard the tapping flap in the rear. After replacing the part while watching your video. The flap still taps when I turn on the rear air. Do you have any suggestions on what to look at next?
Thanks for this vid. I was able to fix this myself. I have a quick question. Do the 05 Ford Expedition have cabin air filter? If so, where is it located? Thanks in advance
I don’t know if this was already post on here but on my 05 expedition Eddie Bauer there are 4 screws, one on the bottom of the actuator and I really think that panel that the cup holder sits upon needs to come off to be able to get to the 4th screw to take the screw out. Unless I’m incorrect?
Great Video Brain!
Any Tips on the rear '05 Explorer actuators??
Both of mine have failed. Obviously I know they are on the left side opposite from the Expeditions, but they look very hard to get to..
Chris Rippy No real tips but you will have to remove the mounting bolts for the air box and the two nuts down below next to the a/c lines to slide it away from the body to change any actuators.
FordTechMakuloco
Thank You!!
The temperature blend door controls hot and cold. To the front is another controller for the air flow door. Upper (Ceiling )and lower(vents to your lap area) air flow. 2 Different part numbers. Just for those wondering. Before you change the wrong one put your hand on each one to find the one skipping.
Thank You so much, please tell me how to clean the front AC refrigerator in the front dash for Expidition 2005 as the air flow is week and not cold.
Thank you I appreciate you for this video. Saved me time and money
great video and very helpful. have you tried or have a video for 2006 ford explorer eddie bauer 4.0L. The actuator are very hard to get to? any help you can provide is greatly appreciated
Hey Brian! Out of curiosity, is this the same issue that kind of sounds like a kick drum noise in the back when the rear air is blowing? I noticed it is a bit louder when on the feet but still noticeable when on the head? I would describe it as a click, but more of a thump noise. Thank you so much in advance!
Open it up like he shows and place your finger on the actuator. If it's clicking you will feel it. This way you will know which one if any is making the sound.
This and the front version awesome. Unfortunately, in the front version you didn't mention about the blend door binding. In my case, when I took off the actuator, the shaft was broken off. I thought it was just brittle but when installing the new actuator, it is clear the door is bound up. Sure wish I knew what to do next. Looks like BIG trouble:-( any help would be appreciated.
Me and Wifey replaced both because of this video, CarX would have charged at least 130.00 to do it, but they lied to use about other car issues that we actually don't have. So thank you Sir from me and wifey.
OK, so you showed us the Expedition and it's rear HVAC, Now does the Explorer have anything similar? I noticed some condensation dripping by the rear of my explorer, is there another HVAC system in the driver's side panel rear? Is there also a filter that needs to be replaced there also? I noticed the dealership put some aluminum tape over some vents in the rear of my Explorer? I have a 2017 explorer, xlt, 4x4, V-6 no turbos?