2003-2006 Ford Expedition Front Temperature Blend Door Actuator Clicking Repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ส.ค. 2015
- You can grab the latest blend door actuator from Amazon Here-
Dual Climate Control Models:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008...
Manual Climate Control Models:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004...
8mm Gearwrench I use that fits:
Straight-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
Flex Head-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
2007-2014 Ford Expedition removal procedure-
• Ford F150 & Expedition...
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Ive never heard of a flex head. Ive always called it a swivel. No offense intended. I watched another guy do a similar video. He repeatedly put down Ford products. I like Fords. You, on the other hand, produced an educational video on R&R of the actuator. It was a pleasure watching your video. Plain and simple, easy to understand. No opinions, just good, straight forward, instructions. Keep up the good work. It was a big help dude.
Swivel is a socket, this is a wrench.
@@FordTechMakuloco um hi question i know this is like a very old video but I do have a question about when you removed the panel my question is can you do the same thing by removing the panel for a 2005 Ford expedition in order to replace the multi function turn signal switch or no
Hands down...the best mechanical and instructional videos on the internet. Period!
This is one of the best car repair videos I have seen. There is no way I would have looked at any of that and thought it was possible, or even something I would want to attempt (and I have been working on my own cars my whole life). It went great. Thanks a million!
Very helpful video, thanks! My repair was complicated by the fact that I have a manual climate control and I didn't know whether I could disconnect the vacuum lines... I just let the dash panel lay in the passenger seat during the job. The third screw was a real bastard and did NOT go back in when the new actuator was installed. A longer wrench would have helped to remove it, but I eventually got it. Definitely pack your patience for this repair; it took me the better part of a weekend. Big props to James Marshall for his tip to rotate the actuator shaft using the heat control. I used the technique to clock the new actuator so it matched the old actuator and it dropped in right away. I fought it for quite a while before reading his tip. Thanks again FordTechMakuloco! I wouldn't have attempted this job before watching this video.
This is great! Thank you - saved me $700.
*Tip for future folks: If you're having trouble getting the cross-shaft to fall into the slot (I wrestled with mine for quite a while), plug the new actuator motor into the electric and slowing change the heat control. You will feel the cross-shaft pivot into the right position and catch. Then just drop it in.
THANK YOU for pointing that out! Saved me a lot of aggravation.
James Marshall that was the ticket for us after 4 hours of finagling. thanks for putting that helpful tip in for the rest of us😀
James pppp
This helped so much,I hope everyone who watches sees your tip.
Thank you.. 🙌🏼
06 Expedition XLT 2WD Thanks to your excellent instructional video, I just did my main blend-door actuator! Admittedly, I wanted to quit several times. Reading comments helped my case. I carefully cut ¼" off of the T, had difficulty still, opened the unit and removed the gear against the shaft gear. Got everything in, snapped the cover back onto the actuator, and tested. Except for my fan switch likely needing to be replaced, everything works now, for the 1st time since I bought my Expy...4yrs ago.
this video was so helpful! we ended up trimming a 1/4” off the new actuator tip to make it easier
I did that and heard some loud clicking and still have same issue....
I did a 2004 Expedition today. I broke the old one taking it out and I used a Milwaukee Sawzall to cut the back corner of the component frame/bracket/support (What ever you want to call that thing). and the new actuator slid right in.
@@jimholmes2555 fighting mine now. Sounds like I have the same setup on my 05. I was thinking of cutting off the plastic flanges the top front of the heater box off. But you're saying rear corner. Can you clarify what you meant some
@@jimholmes2555 figured it out. It's the back screw receiver that the video suggests you may want to leave out and the mount next to it. There was a flexible handle that I had to remove as well to get to that damn screw in the first place. I used a long sturdy knife and a hammer. Both pieces snapped right out. Just got the actuator in. Wish me luck
Was it the white cross piece of the actuator,that you cut?Im having a hard time getting it in?
Thanks
Things i learned, i prefer this job on chevy. As the actuator is on the bottom, easy to access. Takes 5 minutes.
If you dont need the visual, you can save time by not removing the dash panel.
I should have been concerned with the creaking because my panel broke when i tried to take it off, before it cleared the dash, and in a second spot when i decided to push it back into place instead of remove it.
20 minutes not terrible. Got the hard to reach screw first, because that was going to be the deciding factor of having someone else do it.
Thank you for the video, helped a lot more than others. One video even told me to remove the entire dash like i was doing a heater core.
I must say you make the best automotive "how to" videos, hands down! Thank you!
Why thank you!
thanks for the video. I would add that my 2003 Expi used the cross stem. there is another stem that is the shape of a D but that one is for dual temperature control models. Also, if you don't have a ratchet 8mm go and get one, as this is impossible without. Lastly, you should be able to rotate the stem of the new actuator to match the position of the one you have taken out by opening the actuator and then moving the gear. This made an easier instal for me.
Key information! Thank you.
I am not a mechanic even a little bit but this video was so easy and explained it so well. A few notes. I know why mechanics are paid so well. If you have fat sausage fingers like me, take it slow and don’t become frustrated. The spaces are so tight. Working like a charm and took me just a bit over 1 1/2 hrs. Thanks for the video.
Your video is spot on. Thank you. I was having an issue where the front ac in my 2004 expedition would start blowing hot if I turned the fan any higher than 1. I pulled out the actuator and cracked it upen. Sure enough, gear teeth were chewed up. I used a normal 8mm wrench to get it out and it was a huge pain. When I went to autozone for the actuator I picked up some gear wrenches which made reinstallation a bit easier. Russell here in the comments mentioned trimming the actuator rod a bit to help get it in easier and it worked for me so thank you too Russell!
Just wanted to say THANK YOU! Was able to take care of this problem. Took me a little longer then you. But your directions & video was clear. The racketing wrench was essential.
Also it cracks me up that the actuator itself is under-engineered by putting plastic gears whose teeth break off. But the mounting is over-engineered by putting in four screws (in mine) and a support post.
You are a life saver! My front one was way more difficult than yours, I did not have as much clearance above so my hands are all tore up but we got r done! Thank you so much for your video the mechanic wanted so much to fix it so you saved us $$!
Man you are the best!!!!!! It was hot the other day and I put on the air... yesterday it was freezing again and I put on heat, but no dice. I have to drive hours today so I watched this and bought the part. Bingo it WORKS!! You are a life saver!!!!
This video was a huge help! Got the job done in a couple hours. You're right, the 8mm gear wrench is am absolute must. Made it way easier. Thanks again!
Heat!! Thank you so much for the education. After viewing the trouble shooting video you also have, I ordered the correct part from Amazon. With the help of my wife's small hands this was fixed in 1 hour. Really straight forward and easy to do. Again, thank you for posting.
I just completed this job in 1:15 minutes. My shaft was actually broken off from the actuator, so I hade to use a pick to dig it out. Also it's currently 30 degrees outside and I don't have a warm garage to work in. With a flexible head speed wrench I would have easily gotten my time down well under an hour! Just saved myself HUNDREDS!!! My mechanic of 10 years quoted me 10 hours for the job... then told me to do it myself. A trustworthy mechanic is a man's best friend!
+Edward Heaney Nice!!
Thank you for making this video! Saved me a bunch of money. Great camera angles and video editing! Very clear guidance. Was able to get it done in under an hour thanks to your vid!
Thank you for the great easy to follow video!!! I am so happy I could do this to my truck, however, the regular ac just still blows hot, while the max ac is cold. Thank you for the work you do to help us out!!
It was a little harder than the video made it look, but it was much easier than I thought it would be. The key to pulling this off was buying an 8mm flexhead ratchet. Don't try this without it. You saved me a ton of money! Thanks.
yep. watched this video a couple of times and finally tried. I was able to actually remove the original actuator without doing the entire dash. BIG help. Thank you
that was the cleanest, clearest, most complete how-to I have seen. Thank
You!
I appreciate this video! I was getting ready to tackle the thermostat and then possibly the heater core when I decided to google the issue. Your video popped up. The HVAC door sticking fit the possible criteria of the issue I was experiencing. I decided to start here and then move to the others. The job took me about an hour AND solved the problem. Super thankful I came across this before I replaced a bunch of unnecessary parts and drove myself crazy lol keep up the good work 👍🏻
just curious as i'm having an issue with mine, what were you experiencing?
mine blows warm air, but not much air. if i switch it to cold, it blows a ton of air.
sometimes it blows a lot of nice hot air, but it's gotten worse.
I love all your videos. Have seen many. As a 18 year Gm dealership tech, i know how to spot another great tech/ mechanic. I can trust in your diagnosis and repair. Your videos are awesome. Thank you for taking the time to show us your knowledge and how to diagnose and repair our problems the correct way. Not the backyard way. Please keep the videos coming. I am retired and work for myself so i do a lot of research and always look for your videos when working on a ford i need information on. Thank you thank you.
Thank you for making this a little less pain in the butt. There were a few times I thought I wasn't going to be able to do it. After a little over an hour I got it done and yelled F@#$ YEAH after I finished and actually felt heat again. James Marshalls comment helped tremendously. Thanks again.
Just finished this replacement on my 2005 Expedition. Took me 2.5 hours from start to finish.
I was able to remove the screws using a flex head 8mm wrench. It was still hard.
I only replaced two screws. It’s all you need.
For me, the most challenging part was fitting the new blend door white male piece into the hole. You have to line up the cross into the hole. I tried and tried and tried and then all of a sudden it fell in no problem. No idea why.
I also replaced the blend door in the rear of my vehicle (there are at least two). It was way easier. He has a video on that as well.
Good luck all 👍
Hello Jay and everyone.
I'm having a struggle getting the old actuator out.
It seems that "frame" may be in the way.
Any tips on hoe to get this old one out?
Thank you all in advance ☺️
Is it as easy as he makes it look? No. Does he give you every detail you need to do it yourself? Absolutely. Thanks for saving me money!
Thank y very much.
It's amazing how easy you make it look
+otherstuffbybob yep i can imagine quite a few curse words coming from me if i was doing it!
It's not
Very detailed instructions rarely found on TH-cam. Thank you Brian.
Okay, I've watched several videos on the subject of replacing the blend-air damper motor assembly on Expeditions (mine is a 2005) and at first, I felt confident about doing the project. I'm mechanically inclined and have worked on cars for years. So I thought this would be a piece of cake. I bought the motor assembly on Amazon about a year ago and after it arrived, I started in on the project. After removing the dash escutcheon, I reached in with my hands and after feeling around and looking through the glove box opening, I decided to button it up and rethink the whole idea. Recently, the clicking problem got a lot worse, so searched TH-cam again and found your video. Great video and great help. However, your estimate of 30 minutes to an hour is way low for someone who has never performed this repair. I actually taught myself a bunch of new swear words during the 3 plus hours it actually took. That said, your video was truly the inspiration I needed to complete the repair and i'm happy to say, it's now working perfectly. And I keep reminding myself I saved somewhere around $500 in the process.
how did you get the rearmost bolt out? I'm doing this on my 2005 Expedition and I have NO clearance to wrench on that one. The rearmost on other side took a lot of swearing and I could get ONE click on the gear wrench (I now have a fabulous collection of them) and it is a really ridiculously difficult position to work in. It has taken me a few hours to get 3 of them out, This last one takes the prize .. right now I'm thinking SawZall for dash adjustment. If the radio enclosure just had a few access holes.
A lot of creative editing to make this look easy. I am a mechanical guy and this gave me fits.
@@Jeff.White.Training I agree, not an easy job at all. I’m still working on it as I type
@@jimhudson937 I cut the plastic gear driven post that moves the door down. Shaved it away until it would just fit and it’s been fine. Took about an inch off.
Mine is a 05 and I'm in the same boat
i just followed these instructions to replace my blend door actuator--outside in winter. it was a really tight squeeze and i scraped my hands pretty good, but got the job done. thanks!
Thank you for your knowledge and videos. I just completed this job on an 05 Expedition XLT. NOT fun and it is different that the set up you worked on. After trying for an hour to get the new actuator in, we realized no matter how we turned it, it would not fall into place. We took the new part apart, slipped in just the bottom half, inserted the shaft, then the gear beside it, put the top part on and snapped it in. We were all set 30 min later. Not sure why my truck looked different under there. Thanks!
Excellent video and great help! I had an actuator that had snapped off at the stem leaving the broken shaft piece inside the blower box. After several attempts i was able to use a long lag screw and thread a few turns into the hole of the broken stem. I pulled up on it and it finally came out. I took the new actuator apart to be able to slide it in easier. I was then able to slide the new shaft in easily and assemble the actuator in place. This is cumbersome but well worth the savings! Thanks a lot MakuLoco!
Thank you so much for this - the clicking noise had been driving my wife nuts for about a year. Your video was a tremendous help and saved me $$$Mine is a 2004 Ford Expedition XLT and the wiring harness was in the way and not held by a clip but a couple of white plastic push things - i cut them off with wire cutters and after reattached with zip ties. Also my actuator was cream plastic, not black, maybe as mine has the manual a/c controls ? It is a very tight fit to get it in and out and has to be at the correct angle but it is doable - getting the new actuator in took me about 20 minutes and the whole job about 3 hours. I could not get that back 3rd screw in but it does not seem to make a difference. I got the actuator from autozone (Dorman version) as i did not want to wait for Amazon.Thanks again
Thank you for posting this video. I don’t do a lot of work on cars but your video gave me the confidence to take this on. Like others I had a little less room to work with but finally managed to get it done. Good tip on not really needing to place that back 3rd screw as that was not going to happen.
Thank you very much for your video. It helped me understand the location and what the actuator looked like. There was less than a human hair of clearance in order to slide the door blend actuator out and the replacement was even tighter. Your video and how detail you narrate it is suuuuper helpful. I appreciate you Mr. FordTechMakucrazy.
That was awesome! Thank you! I don't think I can actually do it myself but it is good to know what is involved so when they quote me some ridiculous price I know what is really going on.
Great video that I followed in order to replace my actuator. I have a 2003 Expedition, and your video seems to show a bit more openness in the working area. I experienced a much tighter fit, especially getting the left screw out. Anyway, I couldn't have completed the job without your video. Thanks for posting!
My dash was much tighter. Very near breaking the actuator stalk because there was only about an inch between the ducting and the metal frame
@@chuckiec20 Mine is the same 03 Expy. Can't get the third screw out. Were you able to get the new one in once you got the old one out?
@@itspat54 Same thing can't get the third screw out. I gave up, unless there is another option, no clearance unless the whole top dash comes out and get access to it.
@@JoeVillarino I have an '04 and it has 4 screws with about an inch of clearance. Very different clearances than what he had but the method was the same. I had to have my daughter unscrew the last one, my hands were too large to get in under the metal frame and it took about 10 minutes of jockeying around but it did come out.
Thanks for the video. I started getting that clicking noise and lost heat. Wasnt sure what the problem other then there was an issue with the door. You saved me the learning curve time. Ive watch some of your other videos that speeded up the repair process on my Expedition.
Just about to buy a 2004 EB Expedition and wanted to drop you a quick thank you. It's got clicking front and rear and now I am not nearly as nervous (plus might help explain the not so optimal AC temps). Last year I did a heater core on my 01 GT and was dreading doing this actuator but thanks to you, not anymore. Great Ford Videos, subed.
Very calm and confidently teaching those to do it themselves. 👍
Man!!!!! You just saved me quite a bit of money. Thank you, especially your QUALITY. It's IMPECCABLE.
Well with the help of this video I saved $1000. It took about two hours, with plenty of breaks, but i got it. I only put two of the screws back in because I couldn't get to the right rear screw but oh well. Thanks man, you're the best!!!!!
Great video,I put a actuator in just fine by following your demonstration. The only thing I did different was take the radio out to have more hand positions to help insert the new part! Thanks!!!!!!
I'm embarrassed to say how long the front actuator on my 2004 expedition has been acting up. I recently replaced the two in the back near the right rear wheel well. That wasn't too bad..... I just ordered the part from the link you provided, this one is a little more invasive but I think I can do it after watching your great tutorial. Thanks big time.
Thanks for sharing this excellent instructional video.
Today this video enabled me to replace the front temperature blend door actuator of my 2004 Expedition and saved me $645.00 of labor charges by doing it myself.
Like the saying goes, "knowledge is power", so more power to you Bryan for sharing with us, your subscribers, some very good videos to help us save money.
Brian to start this project there was no key in the lock cylinder to put the shifter in L1. But at the end you needed the key to shift the shifter into L1. Sort of confused if we need to use the key or not.Excellent videos! Thanks for all you doing for us. You rock man!
+Hawaiian F150 There was no key in because there was no power I was doing a intake manifold and battery was disconnect. Just do what you normally do to be able to move the shift lever which is acc position forward
Ditto what he said. I just left the key in the ignition while doing this. Door ring was kind of annoying, but only a problem when removing/putting in the black dash piece. Driver's door can be kept closed for most of the work.
That's awesome man. Keep up the great work. Thanks for the clear views and voice sound.
I love your how to videos like this one. I find this infinitely better than Mitchell or Alldata. Thanks and keep them coming!
Ok great video as always, took me about 3-4 hrs but looking at the comments really helped, I cut about 1/4 off shaft before reading comments & still couldn't get it but plugging blend door in & adjusting temp to move that shaft got it in also because I didn't remove entire trim bezel, just lifted it up because first connector I touched the tabs broke, worked on my 2004 Expedition
THANKS! '06 done... no it's not easy because it is so tight! Had the wrench, bought the part... extraction wasn't too bad, putting the new one in sucked! Read many previous comments, found one from 5 years ago by James Marshall - couldn't get the shaft to line up... plug in new motor and your temp adjust temporarily to "move" the shaft... adjusted it to the same angle as the one I removed, cut off about an 1/8 inch and it went in no problem... even got the back (3rd screw) in most of the way! works great, took me about 2+ hours with all the reading and smashing fingers (removed radio too - better vision and hand position)... bet I could do it again in under an hour!
Awesome video. Very clear and excellent info. Gave me peace of mind how easy it was done. Thank you for taking the time and educating the rest of us.
Thank you for helping so many ppl as for myself to save money when it's hard to find great mechanics like you
Thank you for a concise video. My 2005 Expedition has this issue from the click click clicking to the need for replacing of the the blend actuator. Your a Godsend! I do have one more issue with my vehicle and I'm hoping to find one of your videos to take care of this problem.
It's a po453 code fuel tank pressure sensor issue. Thanks again!
When I am working with screws in tight areas, I use a small magnet on a flexible stalk to work it into the hole, and press it in with a flat screw driver, then use wrenches like yours to turn it in. I sometimes tie a thread to the screw so if I drop it I can find it very easily.
Finally done. This was not a pleasant experience. My hands are all bruised from fitting them into a tight space. I was not able to remove all the clips from the connectors. I tried but couldn’t get them all. So basically the panel was partially in place while I did the work. The third screw was the hardest. Putting the actuator in was a not hard but did take some work, about 5 minutes of maneuvering and another 10 minutes screwing them in. Putting everything back was about 45 minutes total. I want to thank FordTechMakuloco for the how to video. Couldn’t have done it without him. I said a little prayer and the actuator worked. My original problem was that I could hear a clicking when I moved the hot/cold dial. I could still get A/C at the Max setting but at no other setting. Now I think I need to recharge my A/C since it feels somewhat cool, but at least its not blowing hot air. Thanks Again. Saved me a ton of money.
Thanks again, just changed the one your talking about here, took little longer, 1 3/4 of an hour
tight fight but did it and nor SHE has Heat. THANK YOU AGAIN
Your video is excellent... I'm so proud we found it before we spent a lot more money than needed...We thank you so very much!!! This guy is incredible..
I haven't done a blend door motor in years and I'm about to do my 2006 F150. Think you just saved me some time for sure.
I thought I was going to have to replace the actuator in my '03 because I was only getting air through the floor ducts. Turned out to be a bad vacuum hose back behind the battery. What a relief that was. Easy fix. Well, not counting pulling the battery out, LOL. Anyway, I'm book marking this video for when the day comes to replace the actuator. BTW, I enjoy your videos. Clear and concise DIY info.
Great video. Great camera work. Thanks for taking the time to show how to do the job the right way.
Thanks for the great video! Like someone else before me, I had so little clearance above the unit that I could not put the new actuator in no matter what. In the end I took the actuator apart, removed the top cover and the large cog wheel inside, inserted the bottom with the shaft into the blender unit, popped the large wheel back in and pressed the cover back on. Bingo! The actuator was hard to take out, but impossible to put back it in, and I don't think I could have done it at all without taking the radio out first. Cheers. (Btw, only just bought the 2005 Expy as a re-import from Japan, with only 80,000 miles on it. Looks like new.)
Great video. Helped me fix the problem of heat always on. 2004 ford expedition.
Thank You for the help, I've changed the rear 2 Actuator It was FUN
Thanks for the great video! I'm a novice so it took me about 3 hours. I had an issue with the orange wire to the stereo impeding clearance when extracting the old actuator and installing the new one. I didn't have a flex-head but my 8 mm stubby ratcheting wrench worked just fine. Once I inserted the shaft, I was concerned the amount of torque required too align it with the alignment tab might damage the shaft but it didn't and no more clicking.
Thank you very much. Each step is explained in detail. The adjustable 8 mm did the trick for me. Thanks again.
Seriously... you are awesome. I so appreciate this video!!!!! Very well done. Now to talk the husband into trying this out or do it myself!
Back several years later, in a search to figure out how to change out the 4 wheel selectors light. OMgoodness , such a helpful Vid. Thanks again...
Really great video. Thanks for taking the time to record this and publish it.
You saved us $$$$, thank you so much! Love you video, how you articulate and encourage! Much appreciated 🙏
Excellent, very informative video! Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Thank you for all your repair videos! They are some of the most helpful on TH-cam! Seriously your a life saver. I've watched so many!
That is why "stealerships" have a bad name. I realize they have to make money, but charging 7-8 hours for a job that takes 30 minute is BS, IMO. Thanks Brian for educating us.
+ReclusiveMountainMan I agree. The official procedure probably involves taking a lot more out than he did, but if it can be done in 30 minutes thats all you should be charged for.
Keep in mind, mechanics get paid book time. If the job pays 3 hours and it takes the tech 20 hours to do it, they still only get paid for 3 hours. If they get it done in 3 minutes, they still get paid for 3 hours. Dealerships make make a killing, but the techs get screwed an awful lot.
Great camera work and audio levels are among the best.
Great video, it's helping me replace mine. As for the engineers, I have some not so nice things to say. Last screw is especially tough if you have freaking sausage fingers. I will also say that using a pick to remove that connector is really easy.
I did the F150 and I didn’t have to remove the dash, but hey great video! It helped me out a lot
You are awesome. Thanks to this video; I feel confident in accomplishing this repair.
YOU ARE AMAZINGGGGGGGGGGG! Thank you so much for sharing this information.
Great video I’m here because I needed it lol just to add to something for Folks. All you have to do is the panel like he said in the wiring starting from the 4 wheel drive controls all the way to the right after that you can just hang it from the rearview mirror by a small bungee chord or wire. No need to mess with headlight controls. That is what I figured out.
AWESOME! Now I can work on my dad's Expedition. You took the mystery out of it.
I was just quoted $800. That's not in my budget, so I'm going to order the parts and take care of it myself. Thank you!
Took me one hour, and had to rewatching the video twice, thanks very much sir
Hi,
I can't say enough "Thank You" for creating this youtube channel on these Ford Expedition. You saved me a lots of money. Plus it's fun working on the issues and knowing you're a click away on my phone (TH-cam).
Thx ....this fixed my problem. It wasn't getting cold nor hot out of front vents in 06 expedition...
Excellent strategy and very informative
So.... just did this on my 03 Expedition.... the video was helpful.... but this was not an easy task!! The space you’re working in is confined to say the least.... that back screw took me over an hour to get out, and didn’t go back in when I reassembled.... pack your patience when replacing this!!.... I used the 8mm wrench with swivel head.... good luck
Thank you great video very helpful. Question I have no heat or air none at all.
I just ran across your video and I think you have solved my problem. I would like to order an actuator for both the front and rear AC units but when I do a search there generally is not distinction between the two. If you have the part numbers available that would be like icing on the cake for me. Thank you so much for the great instructional video!
Thank you SO much! I saved hundreds of dollars by following your instructions.
I didn't have to completely remove the front panel with all of the electrical connections. I just got it loose and then held up the right side with a wire to the sun visor mount. That gave me just enough room to get my arm in beneath it to work. I had a bit of trouble getting the actuator to drop in. I used a stubby screw driver to rotate the door a bit and that helped.
Again, thank you!
Hey KW, I'm yrying yo get my old actuator out.
It's a struggle.
Did you find this step hard to do?
Do you have any tips on how to possibly get it out?
It seems as if metal framing is in the way. I can't lift the plastic white piece up and out.
Thank you in advance for your help
@@thomt1675 Once the actuator lever is out of the hole, I just kept twisting it around till I found the right position to get it out. I think it came out slightly toward the driver side and toward you. When it comes free, note the position so you can put the new one in the same way. NOTE: I struggled for 20-30 minutes trying to get the new one in, but finally it dropped in. Good luck
@@KW-ei3pi KW thank you so much for the tip .
I'm back at it tomorrow morning
@@thomt1675 Did you finally get it replaced?
@@KW-ei3pi great new day to you. No, not as of yet. The piece that has to drop, I'm lining it up however, its not dropping down
This is a GREAT VIDEO MAN I really wish this was for a 1998 Lincoln Navigator as my ac seems to have a mind of its own right now
You explained this so well. Best I have seen. Keep up the great videos.
Thanks!
@@FordTechMakuloco where does the wire go with the red end that you can see in the far left of the screen at the 6:37 mark? I couldn`t find a spot for it. Mine is 2 wheel drive and was wondering if that`s just an extra wire for 4x4
Thanks for the video. Just changed my blend actuator thanks to this video. Keep it up '
Great camera work, as well as a great repair video.
IN the early 2000s I was removing dashes to replace a lot of heater blend door boxes and actuators, Taurus, explores, Rangers, and a few f150s
Great video, just replaced mine on wife's Expedition and saved $$$.
thank you so much. I can't say it was easy ( knuckle buster) definitely saved me big bucks. I have AC now just in time for hot summer.
+Paul Riojas Nice!
For 1997 and newer Fords, The best tool to have is a Milwaukee Sawzall!
You're an excellent instructor thank you 👍
This applies to the 2003-2006 Lincoln Navigator as well.
Might want to add that to the Video Title and description so its searchable and you can get more hits.
And thereby more money.