Jim, I am so glad that this video both part 1 and part 2 were still being broadcasted. You have helped me tremendously with both expert guidance and insightful and helpful hints. Thanks so much for your contribution to the woodturning society. John von
Thank you Jim for sharing an exceptional video on exactly what I needed. My spindle lock collar cracked and fell off after attempting to remove a very stuck chuck. Your step by step approach has given me the confidence and courage to attempt the replacement. You also gave me the thought to take the shaft with the stuck oneway chuck to an automotive repair in the hopes they can apply the necessary torque needed to loosen it before putting it all back together.
Just completed the repair. Your video was invaluable. Would not have attempted it otherwise. I found it easier to tighten the rear interior stop collar by removing the rear spindle lock and accessing the set screw through the hole in the headstock. This allowed me to set the gap and tighten the screw in one operation (without having to slide the spindle back and forth.) Great video! Thanks!
Thank you for posting this video. Just completed the project on my Jet and everything went smoothly thanks to your instruction. Now to rebuild the live center and then all will be good.
Excellent teaching style. Thank you. I believe I can apply these same principles to my 3520B. I look forward to watching your other videos as I have subscribed to your channel.
had to work on the bearing housings with a small drum sander in a portable drill to get a sliding fit of the bearings in the housing. Then all went well.
Nice instructional video.I did the bearing changeout on my 1642 last week. I would have had a lot more confidence if I had seen this first. I just found your channel and its already one of my favorites. Keep em coming.
Thanks for posting these videos. I used them as a guide in replacing the bearings in my 1642 and I found both to be very helpful...clear and easily understood!
Excellent video. I have a 3520 and sort of dreaded the time when I have to replace the bearings. You have de - mystified it for me. Thanks, and best wishes from Ireland!
Thanks Jim, great instructional video, I'll be doing my 1642 this weekend. I found my spindle to have about .005" side play, hope it will remove that. Thanks again
Thanks Jim, I enjoyed the videos. Well done, and explained. I spent many years repairing industrial machines and can tell you are no rookie. I'm glad I found this video series, but hope I never need to refer back to it. LOL
Thank you Charlie Yes I've been repairing all kinds of things all my life, from lawn mowers to HD trucks and machine shop equipment. I just hope the series helps people take on a pretty simple DYI bearing replacement to save some bucks. That way we can buy more tools.
Thank you very much Jim, after watching this video I have been able to change the bearings on my jet 1642, without I do not think it would have happened. you have saved my a lot of money, once again many thanks from a wood turner in West Yorkshire England.
Thank You for these two. I've been putting off my 3520 bearing replacement for too long. The front bearing is just making noise, no movement yet. It is time and now I have an idea of what is going on. You have some good points. So now to research buying bearings.
@@rockspringswoodturner4502 Thanks, it went pretty good. Mine was a bit more stuck than your but my lathe is now running like a champ, it seems faster! :)
Thanks = Never tried anything like this before, but my AW1416VS does require new bearings. Will order the parts tomorrow, and will let you know how I get on. Bill.
hi jim. thank you very very much. i have the same lathe in it's about 10 years old. it's bearings are shot. i wanted to take it to a shop but now i'm going to do it my self. can you tell me please what's the size of the bearing ? anothre thing... can we upgrade the motor ? all the best shachar
shachar, The front bearing is a 6207-2RS and the rear is 6205-2RS. Be sure to take note of how to set the preload on the bearings. Thank you for finding the videos useful. Good luck and if you have more questions please let me know. Changing the motor out is a big job and quite complicated. It can be done, but besides being complicated it gets expensive to boot.
Great video. Used it when I replaced the bearings in my Jet. Noticed that even with new bearings, when I put in a center, I get a small bit of run out. Not as much so with a chuck jaw. Removed everything, and put it back together, still there, ever so slight. Any ideas on what I can check to fix or find the cause?
A few things to check first off. If you have a magnetic base dial indicator you can do a couple checks to see where the run out is. First check the inside of the morse taper just inside the Spindle nose. If this is good +\- .001 it can be your drive center itself. The spindle shaft is not a super hard steel and can be bent, but not very easily. Next using the dial indicator check the spindle for run out on the collar just behind the spindle threads. If this has more than +\- .005 it's a bent spindle shaft. If this is good then it may be that the MT has burs or needs cleaned up. You can order a Hand MT finishing cutter from Enco pretty reasonable. If your MT drive centers have rough places or scratch marks its a good bet the inside spindle does as well. Also be sure the MT in the spindle is clean and dry when using the MT drive. If you email me at rswoodturner@gmail.com I can send you some pictures of how to do this.
Thank you, I will check that. Though I did put the center in my mini lathe to test it, and no issue there. Checking my chuck again, when turning a bowl, there is some difference there (less than 1/8" over a 11 inch diameter bowl). I think I want to take it apart and reassemble, start over to ensure I am not missing something or a bearing is not in perfectly. Assuming a bearing being off a hair could cause this as well?
There's probably a reason you came up first excellent video and a natural teacher thank you sir
Jim, I am so glad that this video both part 1 and part 2 were still being broadcasted. You have helped me tremendously with both expert guidance and insightful and helpful hints. Thanks so much for your contribution to the woodturning society. John von
Thank you Jim for sharing an exceptional video on exactly what I needed. My spindle lock collar cracked and fell off after attempting to remove a very stuck chuck. Your step by step approach has given me the confidence and courage to attempt the replacement. You also gave me the thought to take the shaft with the stuck oneway chuck to an automotive repair in the hopes they can apply the necessary torque needed to loosen it before putting it all back together.
Glad it helped. Hopefully they can press it off.
Just completed the repair. Your video was invaluable. Would not have attempted it otherwise. I found it easier to tighten the rear interior stop collar by removing the rear spindle lock and accessing the set screw through the hole in the headstock. This allowed me to set the gap and tighten the screw in one operation (without having to slide the spindle back and forth.) Great video! Thanks!
I'm glad it helped and I hope others read your comment. It's a good idea.
Thanks so much for you hard work on this video. My 1642 doesn't need bearings yet, but I know I can do it now! Great job.
Thank you for posting this video. Just completed the project on my Jet and everything went smoothly thanks to your instruction. Now to rebuild the live center and then all will be good.
I am glad it was of good use. Good Luke with the live center.
Just replaced both bearings! A clear, informative and easy to follow video. So great it's in real time. Thank you so much for making this video.
Excellent teaching style. Thank you. I believe I can apply these same principles to my 3520B. I look forward to watching your other videos as I have subscribed to your channel.
The only difference is the 3520 has two front bearings. Thank you for subscribing. I'm going to be putting up more videos later this summer.
Thank you very much for these videos. After watching them I changed my bearings and replaced a broken spindle lock.
You're a natural teacher, Jim, as you've built my confidence into doing this to my Jet 14" lathe.
had to work on the bearing housings with a small drum sander in a portable drill to get a sliding fit of the bearings in the housing. Then all went well.
Nice instructional video.I did the bearing changeout on my 1642 last week. I would have had a lot more confidence if I had seen this first. I just found your channel and its already one of my favorites. Keep em coming.
Just replaced the bearings in my 3520 b. Thank you for the video!
Jim I have PM 3520B. This video is a nice step by step instruction. Extremely helpful. Thank You!
Thanks for posting these videos. I used them as a guide in replacing the bearings in my 1642 and I found both to be very helpful...clear and easily understood!
Very fine job, very thorough and sensibly paced. Thank you
Richard
Excellent video. I have a 3520 and sort of dreaded the time when I have to replace the bearings. You have de - mystified it for me. Thanks, and best wishes from Ireland!
Thanks Jim, great instructional video, I'll be doing my 1642 this weekend. I found my spindle to have about .005" side play, hope it will remove that. Thanks again
Thanks Jim, I enjoyed the videos. Well done, and explained. I spent many years repairing industrial machines and can tell you are no rookie. I'm glad I found this video series, but hope I never need to refer back to it. LOL
Thank you Charlie
Yes I've been repairing all kinds of things all my life, from lawn mowers to HD trucks and machine shop equipment. I just hope the series helps people take on a pretty simple DYI bearing replacement to save some bucks. That way we can buy more tools.
Thank you very much Jim, after watching this video I have been able to change the bearings on my jet 1642, without I do not think it would have happened. you have saved my a lot of money, once again many thanks from a wood turner in West Yorkshire England.
Thank You for these two. I've been putting off my 3520 bearing replacement for too long. The front bearing is just making noise, no movement yet. It is time and now I have an idea of what is going on. You have some good points. So now to research buying bearings.
Amazon VBX or is it VXB
Thank you for the Video Jim.I am getting ready to change my bearings,Will be very helpful.
Thanks for posting the 2 videos. This info. will eventually become handy.
+Julian Lech
That is my hope and reason for doing them. If you get into doing it and have questions please feel free to ask.
Thanks for the informative video Jim. I own the same lathe. Very helpful
Great job
what a great video , thank you so much , I will save it.
all best sonny
Thank you! I am getting ready to do this!
You are welcome and best of luck.
@@rockspringswoodturner4502 Thanks, it went pretty good. Mine was a bit more stuck than your but my lathe is now running like a champ, it seems faster! :)
@@maryalicebirk6624 I'm gald you got it fixed up, enjoy.
good video.
Thanks = Never tried anything like this before, but my AW1416VS does require new bearings. Will order the parts tomorrow, and will let you know how I get on. Bill.
Hello Bill
How did the bearing replace go? Jim
Thank you. You had a bearing for Jet 1221, do you know the replacement bearing number for that bearing? Mine is bad. Thanks again.
Try this link
www.ereplacementparts.com/jet-jwl1221vs-evs-woodworking-lathe-parts-c-32652_32854_566311.html
hi jim. thank you very very much. i have the same lathe in it's about 10 years old. it's bearings are shot. i wanted to take it to a shop but now i'm going to do it my self. can you tell me please what's the size of the bearing ?
anothre thing... can we upgrade the motor ?
all the best
shachar
shachar, The front bearing is a 6207-2RS and the rear is 6205-2RS. Be sure to take note of how to set the preload on the bearings. Thank you for finding the videos useful. Good luck and if you have more questions please let me know. Changing the motor out is a big job and quite complicated. It can be done, but besides being complicated it gets expensive to boot.
Great video. Used it when I replaced the bearings in my Jet. Noticed that even with new bearings, when I put in a center, I get a small bit of run out. Not as much so with a chuck jaw. Removed everything, and put it back together, still there, ever so slight. Any ideas on what I can check to fix or find the cause?
A few things to check first off. If you have a magnetic base dial indicator you can do a couple checks to see where the run out is. First check the inside of the morse taper just inside the Spindle nose. If this is good +\- .001 it can be your drive center itself. The spindle shaft is not a super hard steel and can be bent, but not very easily. Next using the dial indicator check the spindle for run out on the collar just behind the spindle threads. If this has more than +\- .005 it's a bent spindle shaft. If this is good then it may be that the MT has burs or needs cleaned up. You can order a Hand MT finishing cutter from Enco pretty reasonable. If your MT drive centers have rough places or scratch marks its a good bet the inside spindle does as well. Also be sure the MT in the spindle is clean and dry when using the MT drive. If you email me at rswoodturner@gmail.com I can send you some pictures of how to do this.
Thank you, I will check that. Though I did put the center in my mini lathe to test it, and no issue there.
Checking my chuck again, when turning a bowl, there is some difference there (less than 1/8" over a 11 inch diameter bowl).
I think I want to take it apart and reassemble, start over to ensure I am not missing something or a bearing is not in perfectly. Assuming a bearing being off a hair could cause this as well?
Yes it could make a difference. Be sure the outer bearing race area is clean and burr free in the housing.
RSW: Where did you get your bearings?
Actually from Amazon.