This is classic Adam Booth. Recreate a shaft or fixture, punctuated with recurring miking of journals and threaded spans, taking off a "thou" here and there, and finishing with a beautiful piece of metal that's equal in every respect to the original. Superb craftsmanship, and beautiful fit and finish. I never tire of it.
Everything you do is like it's very own. Precision is the most important. My 1st electrician that I worked for told me no matter what you are doing, do it as if it were your own home. Have been doing that ever since. It makes a difference to all you do work for.
I like the fact you establish your best practices and you stick to them faithfully. A great way to consistently achieve the desired quality of result. You do same for your safety practices as well. Good on ya Adam for setting a good example, not only in the shop but in your everyday life.
Adam, the following is in no way your fault. When I commented on your last video, I criticized this lathe manufacturer and their faulty spindles. One viewer actually told me to get lost, another commented on the relatively low cost of a new spindle, I think $187.00 USD. I live in Australia, and I had one of these lathes and a new shaft cost me $280.00 USD plus shipping, a local machine shop made one for me for $90.00 AUD on his CNC lathe as he had already programmed his CNC machine as he specialized in making lathe spindles for both metal and wood lathes. The new spindle has no run out, I know wood lathes are not made to the same tolerances as a metal lathes however the care you have taken in getting this spindle to an accuracy level is excellent. Great Work, thanks you.
Adam, I hope you know how much we appreciate the efforts you make to share good machining practice with us. I have been watching your videos since day one and I am constantly reminded of how exacting this work has to be. Thanks very much.
Adam, if I were you, I would make a photo copy of the Ralmike's page and then laminate it. That way the original will be in tact and won't have to be unfolded and folded. Plus, I would keep a cop in a computer file for future print out.
Everybody wants Adam to keep doing what he's always been doing. You, like me, want to see him go to the next level. This part would have been perfect as a CNC learning experience. Learning how to draw it out in CAD, seeing the tool paths, all the stuff Adam needs to learn if he wants to grow. There is a time in everybody's life where they need to leave their past in the past and face the future. Adam, and apparently a lot of his followers don't understand this reality.@@SteveColluns-hm2xx
Amazing. The tolerances and precision you achieve is a true tribute to your talent and professional expertise. So many things could have gone wrong as you progressed through the making the spindle. A true piece of Art.
This method you describe for threading is perfect for those of us with small lathes who do not have a foot brake, all we can do is hit the off switch and of course the lathe doesnt stop immediately. I have seen you use it before, but I didnt understand what you were doing, now I do - thankyou!
I know that high end CNC cannot be matched manually, but there is something satisfyung to the spirit seeing careful, thoughtful manual machining that CNC does not provide to the craftsman. Ray Stormont
Your Awesome ADAM! Love how you end your Videos with the 3 Generations! Always refreshing after seeing the"other adam" on the internet wont mention more names and I see your videos, Makes you the person to learn machining from. Thanks for being PRECISION ADAM!
Omg! Your chart from Ralmikes brought back such great memories, my dad was a tool and die maker for 40 years before retirement and worked 2 doors away from there at 60 brown Ave Springfield nj! God how I wish he was still with us to show him your your work!! He really would have loved your abilities, which is why I am so intrigued also by your channel great job adam!!
I only recently started doing a lot more single point threading, I used to use geometric die heads and/or thread roller heads for any threading I needed to do. I still use those methods quite a bit but single point threading has come in handy now that I do a lot of acme/not 60° threads. For standard threads I will always default to the thread roller as it produces a much better finish and a stronger thread. I bring this up because I learned single point threading from watching your videos. Keep it up Adam, us young fellas can learn a lot from guys like you. Cheers from Cleveland Ohio!
Fun stuff! My Brother came by today and I was showing him my mag base 0.001" dial indicator setup on my drill press. He doesn't do machining and his eyes started glazing over! 😁
Great tip!! Wouldve helped me to see this before yesterday when i was trying to make a metric 4.0, went through the entire process of changing gears for it, as seldom as i do metric threading i forgot about not disengaging the half nut. Even worse for me, the machine i was on doesnt have a functioning reverse. 🤦♂️ With 5 parts to make im just roughing them all out first, and moving to a machine with a collet closer. None the less, im glad i watched this, makes complete sense to keep with the rotations when doing it by disengaging the half nut! Love your videos, long time viewer! 🙌
Hi Adam That operation on cutting threads is the best advice I have seen. Just do machining as a hobby as I have now retired from the motor vehicle industry. I love cutting threads but have not reversed the thread dial. GREAT ADVICE. THANKYOU NSW AUSTRALIA Take care
Excellent advice Abom! It's the person and not the tool sometimes that get the greatest result. If you know you know. Wish I could weld like I play guitar.
Good quality work. I like watching you make the one off's in a job shop environment. Like this video plus the finished part looking so shiny and to speck.
It says a lot about your attention to detail that you spend the tome to make a precision part that will be used to make things that are nowhere near precision. Neatness counts!
I always use direct reading thread measuring micrometers; they do a superb job. You've done a great job. Thanks for the demonstration. The threading chart class of fits are no longer made.
I'm completely un-knowledgeable about the machines and how they work. Maybe you could answer my question of how when cutting threads, the cutting tool hits the same spot on the subsequent passes. I realize the power feed gets the feed rate correctly. But I see he does not start at the same place all the time, what stops hitting the high point on the threads on different passes?
I would really enjoy if you would teach the technique of turning the tool bit upside down and cutting a right hand thread in reverse this way there is never a possibility of crashing. I learned this from an oldtimer and it is my go to way of thread cutting. Start at the shoulder and work outward. Really cool way of doing it. You start by cutting your root to full depth first. Love your videos. keep them coming!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have been able to find thread triangles, though they usually come with the little rubber tabs to hold onto a micrometer, I dont use those tabs and instead use a piece of tubing, inspired by you Ahom!
I have used that technique after watching you do it in a previous video.Most of the time, I use what I call, the Joe Pie method for imperial threading.Meaning,cutter upside down,spindle in reverse,thread from left to right.Try it,you’ll like it.
If your thread has an undercut on the shaft, you could have a tool post on the far side of the slide. You place the single point tool upside down, still on centre. You can start from the undercut and work backwards. That way, the chances of hitting the shaft shoulders are negated, the tool should clear into fresh air. Just an alternative way, which does work. Good post 👍
There are many ways to cut a thread up to a relief at the base of a shoulder. Granted you often need that tiny relief. On my old machines, I do this with the trip dogs. The Hardinge HLV does a killer job threading up to a shoulder. I am still working out the bugs in my monarch 10EE ELSR. The old south bend relies on using the thread dial. It’s kinda hairy threading up to a shoulder on this dinosaur. But it’s a cool antique and I can do precise work on it but takes a bit of tweaking to compensate for wear. I like to see how the more modern lathes do this job.
Really glad you touched on the measuring of the thread at the end. You mentioned you machined it to fit the chuck as your go gauge, but as you also mentioned that’s not the only thing going on there potentially. Utilising an existing part as a go gauge could turn out to be a ‘trap for young players’ as it could be warn past spec. If you then have to replace the chuck or whatever it might be and the new part doesn’t fit the threads you’re in for a bit of hassle to say the least
Hi Adam, it would be interesting to see this part made on the cnc. Specially the time difference and acurracy if any. Or just in simulation if possible please
I’m guessing it would take at least twice as long. All the tooling would need to be selected, installed in the tool changer and proven. After several shafts are machined and corrected for accuracy thirty more shafts could be machined very efficiently at much lower cost than manual.
This is yet another part that would be a good one to put into that CNC lathe to give you some more practice on the thing. That machine doesn't really care metric or standard, it'll do whatever you tell it to do.
Just one small nomenclature thing. US Customary Measures are not the same as British Standard Measures (commonly called Imperial). They are slightly different in the specific definitions. Amusingly both are defined in metric. It’s just the multipliers used are different for each. For most people and most uses US Customary and British Standard measures are interchangeable. It’s just in the weeds that they do differ.
@@tsmartin You’ve got sharp eyes. I didn’t see that so thanks for pointing it out. Screw on chucks have always bothered me for that reason. Now I know there’s a remedy.
So funny story..., I tried being clever and going away from the big flange, put the lead screw in reverse. That way your going away from the hard spot. easy peasy, didn't realize I was cutting a reverse thread lol. Was lefty tighty righty losey
I love you being so fussy with the spindle nose thread. I’ve been a woodturner for 26 years and all of my chucks fit the spindle a little differently. Plus, this is for a wood lathe. Not much precision needed there. The only time I need any precision is when I’m making something with a threaded lid. And then it’s a little critical.
Could the undersize bearing journal on the original shaft be there to allow for longitudinal expansion of the shaft without damaging the bearings? Only one end can be fixed. In addition to turning out a very nice-looking part, there were many teachable points, especially the one about allowing clearance for other tooling to be threaded on the spindle. Nice work!
You really should scan that triangle chart - maybe even have one copy of the chart laminated so you can grab it without having to carefully unfold it each time (and which would be one less time until the paper falls apart)
Am I the only one who finds dealing with numbers like 0.98465 completely insane, especially given the fact that this isn't even exactly 25mm as it probably should be? Otherwise I really like to watch your videos Adam!
You need to copy and print that chart before it becomes unreadable. Then you can use the copy for thread pitch work and save the original in its present condition.
34:19 "I don't know how much a smidge is, but we're gonna go for it" That was a great line, made me laugh...
Good Evening everyone watching from Lincolnshire UK 🇬🇧
Good evening everyone wathching from São Leopoldo RS BRAZIL
Watching from the same place.. grimsby Lincolnshire. Uk
Good evening from Phoenix Arizona.
Good morning from London.
This is classic Adam Booth. Recreate a shaft or fixture, punctuated with recurring miking of journals and threaded spans, taking off a "thou" here and there, and finishing with a beautiful piece of metal that's equal in every respect to the original. Superb craftsmanship, and beautiful fit and finish. I never tire of it.
That tip about metric threading on a non metric lathe is fantastic and unexpected.
Thank you Adam. Super helpful.
Now I wish my lathe had a brake.
Machinist, teacher and filmmaker. Satisfying channel all around. Thanks
He is one hella of a teacher .
That beginning segment was a great explanation of how you use the lathe to line up the cuts
Great show❤
Everything you do is like it's very own. Precision is the most important. My 1st electrician that I worked for told me no matter what you are doing, do it as if it were your own home. Have been doing that ever since. It makes a difference to all you do work for.
The end was very exciting. I held my breath each time you stopped the lathe, hoping the little chuck didn't spin itself off! 😬
I like the fact you establish your best practices and you stick to them faithfully. A great way to consistently achieve the desired quality of result. You do same for your safety practices as well.
Good on ya Adam for setting a good example, not only in the shop but in your everyday life.
As much as I love the machining, I love the presentation and explanations even more. Good job is always.
That lathe is PF rigid if it won’t even take a spring cut! Gotta love a new machine!!
Adam, the following is in no way your fault. When I commented on your last video, I criticized this lathe manufacturer and their faulty spindles. One viewer actually told me to get lost, another commented on the relatively low cost of a new spindle, I think $187.00 USD. I live in Australia, and I had one of these lathes and a new shaft cost me $280.00 USD plus shipping, a local machine shop made one for me for $90.00 AUD on his CNC lathe as he had already programmed his CNC machine as he specialized in making lathe spindles for both metal and wood lathes. The new spindle has no run out, I know wood lathes are not made to the same tolerances as a metal lathes however the care you have taken in getting this spindle to an accuracy level is excellent. Great Work, thanks you.
A machinist's fit? you sir, are far too humble! This has been amazing to watch from pt 1 and now finished spindle!
Adam, I hope you know how much we appreciate the efforts you make to share good machining practice with us. I have been watching your videos since day one and I am constantly reminded of how exacting this work has to be. Thanks very much.
Adam, if I were you, I would make a photo copy of the Ralmike's page and then laminate it. That way the original will be in tact and won't have to be unfolded and folded. Plus, I would keep a cop in a computer file for future print out.
It’s funny that when I got your notification of this video, I was watching Max Grant of Sawn Valley Machine Works do a wood lathe spindle.
Brother you do beautiful work, your dad and grandpa would be proud of you.
So glad you got into CNC, but your manual machining just can't be beat.
@@SteveColluns-hm2xx Seriously dude go get a life!
Everybody wants Adam to keep doing what he's always been doing. You, like me, want to see him go to the next level. This part would have been perfect as a CNC learning experience. Learning how to draw it out in CAD, seeing the tool paths, all the stuff Adam needs to learn if he wants to grow. There is a time in everybody's life where they need to leave their past in the past and face the future. Adam, and apparently a lot of his followers don't understand this reality.@@SteveColluns-hm2xx
@@seabreezecoffeeroasters7994 Just wants attention. There’s one on every channel. Take it with a grain, or a whole box full.
Your technique for threading was way easier for me to get the hang of when I had to do metric threads. Thanks for showing that.
Thank you for the old school Abom content
He has a great deal of knowledge as well as machining skill!Very helpful videos.
Amazing. The tolerances and precision you achieve is a true tribute to your talent and professional expertise. So many things could have gone wrong as you progressed through the making the spindle. A true piece of Art.
This method you describe for threading is perfect for those of us with small lathes who do not have a foot brake, all we can do is hit the off switch and of course the lathe doesnt stop immediately. I have seen you use it before, but I didnt understand what you were doing, now I do - thankyou!
The perfect thing I want to watch after I get home from work, an Abom Video :D
The manual machining projects are the best vids IMHO
I know that high end CNC cannot be matched manually, but there is something satisfyung to the spirit seeing careful, thoughtful manual machining that CNC does not provide to the craftsman. Ray Stormont
Your Awesome ADAM! Love how you end your Videos with the 3 Generations! Always refreshing after seeing the"other adam" on the internet wont mention more names and I see your videos, Makes you the person to learn machining from. Thanks for being PRECISION ADAM!
Adam as my Mom says that was succulent ! and i agrees with my mom cause she was a machinist for over 50 years and she loves your wife ❣
Omg! Your chart from Ralmikes brought back such great memories, my dad was a tool and die maker for 40 years before retirement and worked 2 doors away from there at 60 brown Ave Springfield nj! God how I wish he was still with us to show him your your work!! He really would have loved your abilities, which is why I am so intrigued also by your channel great job adam!!
That's far and above better than anything Jet Tools ever made.
I only recently started doing a lot more single point threading, I used to use geometric die heads and/or thread roller heads for any threading I needed to do. I still use those methods quite a bit but single point threading has come in handy now that I do a lot of acme/not 60° threads. For standard threads I will always default to the thread roller as it produces a much better finish and a stronger thread. I bring this up because I learned single point threading from watching your videos. Keep it up Adam, us young fellas can learn a lot from guys like you. Cheers from Cleveland Ohio!
I learn something new with every video I watch! Thanks Adam!
I to learn something from every video.
Fun stuff! My Brother came by today and I was showing him my mag base 0.001" dial indicator setup on my drill press. He doesn't do machining and his eyes started glazing over! 😁
Great tip!! Wouldve helped me to see this before yesterday when i was trying to make a metric 4.0, went through the entire process of changing gears for it, as seldom as i do metric threading i forgot about not disengaging the half nut. Even worse for me, the machine i was on doesnt have a functioning reverse. 🤦♂️ With 5 parts to make im just roughing them all out first, and moving to a machine with a collet closer. None the less, im glad i watched this, makes complete sense to keep with the rotations when doing it by disengaging the half nut! Love your videos, long time viewer! 🙌
Glad to see you doing work with the awesome old machines.
Hi Adam
That operation on cutting threads is the best advice I have seen.
Just do machining as a hobby as I have now retired from the motor vehicle industry.
I love cutting threads but have not reversed the thread dial.
GREAT ADVICE. THANKYOU
NSW AUSTRALIA
Take care
That turned out better than the factory part........One of these days I'd like to see you do a video on picking up threads on the lathe.
Pretty sure he has, might want to look back through the vids.
Excellent advice Abom! It's the person and not the tool sometimes that get the greatest result. If you know you know. Wish I could weld like I play guitar.
As always AMIGO, another EXCELLENT and very informative video! Thanks for your time and efforts.
Good quality work. I like watching you make the one off's in a job shop environment.
Like this video plus the finished part looking so shiny and to speck.
It says a lot about your attention to detail that you spend the tome to make a precision part that will be used to make things that are nowhere near precision. Neatness counts!
Love watching your video's. Never had a chance doing this kind of stuff growing up. Mine was all in construction and vehicle work
I always use direct reading thread measuring micrometers; they do a superb job.
You've done a great job.
Thanks for the demonstration.
The threading chart class of fits are no longer made.
I'm completely un-knowledgeable about the machines and how they work. Maybe you could answer my question of how when cutting threads, the cutting tool hits the same spot on the subsequent passes. I realize the power feed gets the feed rate correctly. But I see he does not start at the same place all the time, what stops hitting the high point on the threads on different passes?
Great as usual, cant wait for pt.3
I would really enjoy if you would teach the technique of turning the tool bit upside down and cutting a right hand thread in reverse this way there is never a possibility of crashing. I learned this from an oldtimer and it is my go to way of thread cutting. Start at the shoulder and work outward. Really cool way of doing it. You start by cutting your root to full depth first. Love your videos. keep them coming!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have been able to find thread triangles, though they usually come with the little rubber tabs to hold onto a micrometer, I dont use those tabs and instead use a piece of tubing, inspired by you Ahom!
Expert in lathe machining very good video Adam keep goin' making those......
Really nice finish!
I have used that technique after watching you do it in a previous video.Most of the time, I use what I call, the Joe Pie method for imperial threading.Meaning,cutter upside down,spindle in reverse,thread from left to right.Try it,you’ll like it.
Never thought of that as an option, you are awesome
If your thread has an undercut on the shaft, you could have a tool post on the far side of the slide. You place the single point tool upside down, still on centre. You can start from the undercut and work backwards. That way, the chances of hitting the shaft shoulders are negated, the tool should clear into fresh air. Just an alternative way, which does work. Good post 👍
Really enjoying your manual machining videos 🤙
Really helpfull explanation of the half nut, never understood that till now
8:23 You know the machine is doing well for you when you start talking to it.
8:21 love the way you talk the machine when it's giving you sass 😅
Things well done,Adam and I hope that it will work for you.Thank you.
I like using the 4 jaw for another reason. When talking heavy cuts the 4 jaw holds the work piece tighter than a 3 jaw .
G'day Adam... Excellent machine finish to the complete job. Well done
Hey adam, I hope you have scanned all of the old charts, that way you can always print them if the original gets worn out. God Bless you and Abbey.
There are many ways to cut a thread up to a relief at the base of a shoulder. Granted you often need that tiny relief.
On my old machines, I do this with the trip dogs. The Hardinge HLV does a killer job threading up to a shoulder. I am still working out the bugs in my monarch 10EE ELSR.
The old south bend relies on using the thread dial. It’s kinda hairy threading up to a shoulder on this dinosaur. But it’s a cool antique and I can do precise work on it but takes a bit of tweaking to compensate for wear.
I like to see how the more modern lathes do this job.
Really glad you touched on the measuring of the thread at the end. You mentioned you machined it to fit the chuck as your go gauge, but as you also mentioned that’s not the only thing going on there potentially. Utilising an existing part as a go gauge could turn out to be a ‘trap for young players’ as it could be warn past spec. If you then have to replace the chuck or whatever it might be and the new part doesn’t fit the threads you’re in for a bit of hassle to say the least
*worn
@@paulcopeland9035 what about Warne
14:14 You were proud of that one! Rightly so!
Hi Adam, it would be interesting to see this part made on the cnc. Specially the time difference and acurracy if any. Or just in simulation if possible please
I’m guessing it would take at least twice as long. All the tooling would need to be selected, installed in the tool changer and proven. After several shafts are
machined and corrected for accuracy thirty more shafts could be machined very efficiently at much lower cost than manual.
This is yet another part that would be a good one to put into that CNC lathe to give you some more practice on the thing. That machine doesn't really care metric or standard, it'll do whatever you tell it to do.
Perfect machining
Those thread triangles look WAY easier to use than wire...
Great stuff - really enjoyed that.
GREAT SMIDGE .. I MEAN VID ! .. BEST 2 U & ABBY .. GOD BLESS
Just one small nomenclature thing. US Customary Measures are not the same as British Standard Measures (commonly called Imperial). They are slightly different in the specific definitions. Amusingly both are defined in metric. It’s just the multipliers used are different for each. For most people and most uses US Customary and British Standard measures are interchangeable. It’s just in the weeds that they do differ.
That looks great Good job
Another job done.
It always brings a year to my yet when I watch to the end and see the three of you there though.
It brings a year to my yet also. 😢😢
I was thinking at the end, "don't hit the foot brake! That little chuck will come flying off."
Was thinking the same, but wonder if it locks itself to the shaft some how. Heard a click noise when it was screwed on all the way.
@@DiscretesignalsNo it doesn’t lock to the shaft except for compressive jam fit against the machined shoulder.
@@ellieprice363 Stop the video at 37:01. You will see a set screw that locks the chuck to the spindle on the thread relief.
@@tsmartin You’ve got sharp eyes. I didn’t see that so thanks for pointing it out. Screw on chucks have always bothered me for that reason. Now I know there’s a remedy.
Thank you, very informative.
i love watching this
excellent work!
So funny story..., I tried being clever and going away from the big flange, put the lead screw in reverse. That way your going away from the hard spot. easy peasy, didn't realize I was cutting a reverse thread lol. Was lefty tighty righty losey
... classic Abom ...
i learn something every video
You should make a t-shirt saying tighten the highs and loosen the lows
I was never able to cut threads on my mini lath and now i know why, Thanks for explaining so well on how its done.
Thanks A 79 ❤
Great technique, I use it too.
Te felicito amigo quedó espectacular esa pieza bien centrado sin errores así se hace 🙏👍
I love you being so fussy with the spindle nose thread. I’ve been a woodturner for 26 years and all of my chucks fit the spindle a little differently. Plus, this is for a wood lathe. Not much precision needed there. The only time I need any precision is when I’m making something with a threaded lid. And then it’s a little critical.
Outstanding work! :o)
Ever feel a bit crazy like you're just talking to yourself?🤪
JK, love watching you work!
👍👍
Could the undersize bearing journal on the original shaft be there to allow for longitudinal expansion of the shaft without damaging the bearings? Only one end can be fixed. In addition to turning out a very nice-looking part, there were many teachable points, especially the one about allowing clearance for other tooling to be threaded on the spindle. Nice work!
I bet Keith Rucker would love to have a copy of that chart if he doesn’t already.
One word....True!
Thx 😁
Great content
You really should scan that triangle chart - maybe even have one copy of the chart laminated so you can grab it without having to carefully unfold it each time (and which would be one less time until the paper falls apart)
I love this stuff
Am I the only one who finds dealing with numbers like 0.98465 completely insane, especially given the fact that this isn't even exactly 25mm as it probably should be? Otherwise I really like to watch your videos Adam!
YES YOU'RE THE ONLY ONE COMMIE.
Did a quick look on Amazon and they have two different listing for 60 degree thread triangles.
I bet Adam could build an amazing race engine. The attention to detail would payoff in horsepower
that was awesome that is teaching thank you
At the end, I kept saying "Don't step on the brake"
I could just see the chuck unscrewing itself off the threads.
This hits home. I stuck a nail in a gutter screw hole standing on a ladder and it was the worst threading ever. I thought of you.
You need to copy and print that chart before it becomes unreadable. Then you can use the copy for thread pitch work and save the original in its present condition.