You are the type of person I want working on my vehicles. You are obviously very knowledgeable and you take pride in what you do! Those skills are difficult to come by.
If you are looking for a shop to work on your LandCruiser, OTRAMM is the place to bring it! Without hesitation he is my first choice when I do not perform the work myself.
Ryan every video you produce is top quality, complete, inline with the factory FSM and includes your experience. Wish I had the cash to ship you my 80 series and a blank check for you to go crazy to the 9's. For now with you and the FSM I can get "R" Done. Thanks for all the awesome videos an content!
M5 Aviation, 100% agree with you ! someone whom takes pride in there work nowadays is hard to find, this channels garage is only a few hours from my house and I have plans for him to do some work on my newer LC200 in the near future.
So you forgot the camera on the pinion bearing install piece. When doing new gears do you reuse the shim under the pressed on bearing or do you install a new shim. If new how do you know how much to shim it. Also when doing the initial pattern on this one you hit it right the first time, what if it's not?
I start with the original pinion shim. Then check the pattern. If the pattern is off I add or subtract shim thickness from there. Gears are a blend of art and science since you have to interpret the contact pattern to know what changes need to be made.
When you do the initial test with the pinion are you pressing on the new bearing or using a test bearing that slips on and off easier? I've seen where guys grind the old bearing out a bit so it slips on and off the pinion to do the test and get the shims right.
@@OTRAMM Is why I ask is sometimes the lockers dont lock in without rolling up and back several times also sometimes they wont unlock when bound. Thanks for the reply.
@@crashedking1931 the locker splines have to be lined up on the oe locker to engage. Usually they'll pop in a while you're moving it just takes a bit. I don't know that any lockers will disengage while bound. You've got to release tension for them to be able to disengage.
Due to me being a crazy person i always wonder why make 3 on one side and 4 on other side. More efficient to just mark one side with 1 mark..... sorry i am nuts
I'm a bit OCD about marking things. A single punch mark can get lost in the texture of the cast finish. Three and four are just an easy way for me to be sure I don't mistake the narks.
Isn't 244 Red Locktight too much? I was thinking 242 Blue Locktight or maybe 243... Red 244 is said to be permanent. That's why I'm asking. If your supposed to later need for an adjustment; is 244 Red Locktight, an obstacle then? Just wondering and curious. Thank you all your efforts and dedication! 👍
Dude, you obviously know what you're doing. Too bad you didn't have someone to help you film. A stationary camera is seriously limiting the quality of your videos. The right camera angles and lighting to see all the action can make all the difference to the viewer. Enlist someone to help you while filming and the quality of your videos will go way up. A friendly suggestion from one Automotive TH-camr to another.
I made the original holder probably 20 years ago. It's been changed around depending on shop space several times. It originally mounted in a vise, the a hitch receiver vertically, then horizontally, finally bolted to the engine stand head. I'm building new shop benches soon and some different tool adapters. The diff holder is on the list to rebuild. I'll try and get a video.
OTRAMM yes please that thing is awesome and want to build one myself for rebuilds and re gears. Not enough people do videos on tools needed for the project
I know Dana uses them as well. The old Toyota stuff used shims to set preload. It swapped to crush sleeve in the mid seventies. Crush sleeves are faster for assembly since you just crush them til preload is correct instead if messing with shims. You can dial it in a bit closer to since you don't have shim thickness "steps" sometimes a shim is too thick or thin to be dead on.
I may find myself in the fj80 market soon and find your videos very helpful. Regeqr and lockers are a must and I prefer to do my own installs, though I have only done Nissan's and salsbury style axles.. Do find you have to adjust pinion depth much with these installs? If so do you use a setup bearing?
With Yukon gears at least the factory master shim seems to be really close most of the time. Often enough that I never bothered to make a setup bearing. Having a big press makes it easy too.
G'day from Australia mate, awesome videos, just wondering what sealer you are using on the splines/seals? Just high temp / oil resistant RTV? Do you do the same thing on axle seals and other things? Cheers!
I am about to install a harrop locker on my nissan patrol Y61 3rd member. The adjustment of carrier bearings is exactly the same. I am intrigued with the measurement of the measurement of the adjuster cap using the dial indicator. This is to make sure that the bearings are tight enough on both sides so that a notch turn in opposite directions moves the carrier left or right? Also I have not heard to use loctite on the bearing cap bolts, is this necassary, as Harrop does not mention this, only loctite 262 on the crown to carrier bolts.
The dial indicator the the adjuster is part of Toyota's instructions for setting the preload. It shows that the bearings are loaded. The instructions don't call out locktite. I use it as added insurance. I tend to locktite anything that moves.
@@OTRAMM people are saying they disengage when in a technical situation. They say if the vehicle moves backwards it will disengage and you are not locked when moving forward.
Mate you’re unbelievable. Amazing work. Can I offer some constructive criticism about your video. As your doing an instructional video it’s very important to have a clear view of what’s happening. It seems that either your hand or you body is blocking the camera. May I suggest raise you camera up and place it at about 45 degrees. (From high looking down at 45) Eg you say stake the nut. Your there tapping but can’t see what you’re doing. Just looks like a guy with a hammer. I do realise you need to make a living and your life isn’t about you tube. I’m just saying your so talented, your videos good be even better. Please don’t take this as criticism, I highly appreciate the effort you go to. On a different not. Diffs are quite complicated. Omg. I’m smart enough to know I’m too dumb to do what you just did.
@@jopaul93 pinion depth can be a pain. I usually start with the factory shim. Usually that'll be pretty close. Some gears brands take more finagling than others.
@@OTRAMM ok now my carrier one side the bearing was pressed on and the other side went on super easy just two taps so set it and it slipped right on is that gonna be to loose or will the bearing caps tighten enough to hold the bearing from spinning on the carrier
@@jopaul93 it may be on the loose side if it popped on easily. You can try staking the carrier. Take a center punch and make a bunch of small prick marks around the bearing surface of the carrier. The raised edges of the pricks will tighten it up. You could also use sleeve retaining compound. A new carrier would be best.
Could you explain what you are looking for as far as the contact pattern goes. You show it in the video but don't explain exactly what it needs to look like.
The pattern reading is kind of a black art and not super early explained. When you get new gears the manual with them shows the various patterns and what they mean. It's easiest just to compare pics.
Thanks for the great video. I’m getting into my third diff rebuild and I really like your attachment to the engine stand. Really helpful when you need to rotate it back and forth setting up the pinion. Custom fabrication or off the shelf?
It's custom. If you look closely you can see how many times I've changed it. It started out bolted to my welding table, then changed to a quick release hitch style mount, then redone to bolt to the engine stand. I really like it on the engine stand.
Forgot to mention I think OTC sells a similar looking adapter. It's listed as a transmission holder. I've never seen one in person but saw one in a catalog years ago.
Your the type of bloke l don’t mind working on my vehicles very thorough , pity you live and work in America .. l don’t trust the ones in Australia too many cowboys...
You are the type of person I want working on my vehicles. You are obviously very knowledgeable and you take pride in what you do! Those skills are difficult to come by.
If you are looking for a shop to work on your LandCruiser, OTRAMM is the place to bring it! Without hesitation he is my first choice when I do not perform the work myself.
Ryan every video you produce is top quality, complete, inline with the factory FSM and includes your experience.
Wish I had the cash to ship you my 80 series and a blank check for you to go crazy to the 9's.
For now with you and the FSM I can get "R" Done. Thanks for all the awesome videos an content!
Amazing and quality work! Thanks for posting this. You now have a new subscriber 😎🙏
M5 Aviation, 100% agree with you ! someone whom takes pride in there work nowadays is hard to find, this channels garage is only a few hours from my house and I have plans for him to do some work on my newer LC200 in the near future.
Very impressed.
Great info👍
Definitely going Harrop now on my GU
Cheers
Nice pattern!
Awesome video🤙
I like your video and the device for holding the differential. Can you show me this device clearly?
Hi, whats the tork for the front and rear 3rd member. Thanks
hi nice video , May i know What is E-LOCKER mean ?
Good job, are fzj80 ring & pinion face milled or hobb milled?
Powerful
What parts are required for front and rear Harrop E-lockers installed on a 96 80 series Land Cruiser also labor
I know this is old… but, why don’t you use starting torque when checking pinion preload like the service manual instructs?
Not sure I understand your question. I follow the service manual building this diff. The pinion preload is set toward the end of the video.
Nice video and well recorded. Keep it up 👍
So you forgot the camera on the pinion bearing install piece. When doing new gears do you reuse the shim under the pressed on bearing or do you install a new shim. If new how do you know how much to shim it. Also when doing the initial pattern on this one you hit it right the first time, what if it's not?
I start with the original pinion shim. Then check the pattern. If the pattern is off I add or subtract shim thickness from there. Gears are a blend of art and science since you have to interpret the contact pattern to know what changes need to be made.
@@OTRAMM Cool thank you. I need to rebuild my diff's and considering a gear swap at the same time. Never done one before so this is very helpful.
When you do the initial test with the pinion are you pressing on the new bearing or using a test bearing that slips on and off easier? I've seen where guys grind the old bearing out a bit so it slips on and off the pinion to do the test and get the shims right.
Try using an box end lond wrench on ring gear bolt by rotating it up and down vigorously meshing the compound revealing your pattern.
I've always had good luck with using a glove to add drag, but I'll give that a shot next time.
nice video mate
Where does the wire come out. I have OEM 1996 LC lockers. Is this going to work on mine.
If you have factory lockers these won't work. They replace the non locked differential.
@@OTRAMM Are these stronger then my factory and why wont it work.
@@crashedking1931 they're probably the same on strength. The differentials are completely different between the two.
@@OTRAMM Is why I ask is sometimes the lockers dont lock in without rolling up and back several times also sometimes they wont unlock when bound. Thanks for the reply.
@@crashedking1931 the locker splines have to be lined up on the oe locker to engage. Usually they'll pop in a while you're moving it just takes a bit. I don't know that any lockers will disengage while bound. You've got to release tension for them to be able to disengage.
Excellent video brother ...god bless you
Due to me being a crazy person i always wonder why make 3 on one side and 4 on other side. More efficient to just mark one side with 1 mark..... sorry i am nuts
I'm a bit OCD about marking things. A single punch mark can get lost in the texture of the cast finish. Three and four are just an easy way for me to be sure I don't mistake the narks.
Sir what is the torque of the ring gear ?please replay
Aqui en costa rica lo puedo conseguir para Mitsubishi 4x2. 2400 nesecito mas fuersa
Isn't 244 Red Locktight too much? I was thinking 242 Blue Locktight or maybe 243... Red 244 is said to be permanent. That's why I'm asking. If your supposed to later need for an adjustment; is 244 Red Locktight, an obstacle then? Just wondering and curious. Thank you all your efforts and dedication! 👍
Red will come loose it just takes more effort. I dont want anything diff related coming loose so I use red.
great....do you have a rebuild differential service? I need my diff for a 1999 LC series 100 rebuilt. please advise. thank you.
We normally only rebuild differentials on trucks at the shop. That way we can do the break in test drives and make sure everything is happy.
@@OTRAMM ok....well can you recommend anyone in the NY NJ CT PA area ?
@@ceasargeorge2869 I don't know of anyone off hand. Check in the Keystone Cruisers clubhouse on IH8MUD.com. They'll likely know someone.
Dude, you obviously know what you're doing. Too bad you didn't have someone to help you film. A stationary camera is seriously limiting the quality of your videos. The right camera angles and lighting to see all the action can make all the difference to the viewer. Enlist someone to help you while filming and the quality of your videos will go way up. A friendly suggestion from one Automotive TH-camr to another.
Can you make a video of how you made this engine stand into a diff stand please🙏
I made the original holder probably 20 years ago. It's been changed around depending on shop space several times. It originally mounted in a vise, the a hitch receiver vertically, then horizontally, finally bolted to the engine stand head. I'm building new shop benches soon and some different tool adapters. The diff holder is on the list to rebuild. I'll try and get a video.
OTRAMM yes please that thing is awesome and want to build one myself for rebuilds and re gears. Not enough people do videos on tools needed for the project
Ivan perhaps just take a couple of screen shots from the vijao where the stand is visible. I am sure you can knock something up from there. Cheers
....Is the "crush sleeve" just a Toyota thing? I did a '66 Bronco front axle and no crush sleeve - what is the benefit of the crush sleeve?
I know Dana uses them as well. The old Toyota stuff used shims to set preload. It swapped to crush sleeve in the mid seventies. Crush sleeves are faster for assembly since you just crush them til preload is correct instead if messing with shims. You can dial it in a bit closer to since you don't have shim thickness "steps" sometimes a shim is too thick or thin to be dead on.
I may find myself in the fj80 market soon and find your videos very helpful. Regeqr and lockers are a must and I prefer to do my own installs, though I have only done Nissan's and salsbury style axles.. Do find you have to adjust pinion depth much with these installs? If so do you use a setup bearing?
With Yukon gears at least the factory master shim seems to be really close most of the time. Often enough that I never bothered to make a setup bearing. Having a big press makes it easy too.
This would be identical procedure on a 100 series third member correct?
For the rear yes.
13:20 Am I weird for bursting out laughing at the "hammer dance" you did?
How do you adjust pinion depth? Are there shims or washers for that?
There are shims either behind the pinion bearing or behind the race depending on year.
G'day from Australia mate, awesome videos, just wondering what sealer you are using on the splines/seals? Just high temp / oil resistant RTV? Do you do the same thing on axle seals and other things? Cheers!
For the stuff that's trans or gear oil related I use the orange Toyota FIPG. For engine oil I use the black Toyota FIPG.
If you mark one side with 3 marks then why mark the other side with any at all?
Because the marks can be hard to see. It takes 2 seconds to mark the other side and avoid any mix ups.
I am about to install a harrop locker on my nissan patrol Y61 3rd member. The adjustment of carrier bearings is exactly the same. I am intrigued with the measurement of the measurement of the adjuster cap using the dial indicator. This is to make sure that the bearings are tight enough on both sides so that a notch turn in opposite directions moves the carrier left or right? Also I have not heard to use loctite on the bearing cap bolts, is this necassary, as Harrop does not mention this, only loctite 262 on the crown to carrier bolts.
The dial indicator the the adjuster is part of Toyota's instructions for setting the preload. It shows that the bearings are loaded. The instructions don't call out locktite. I use it as added insurance. I tend to locktite anything that moves.
I need to get me those toyota instructions from somewhere. Nissan does not mention this anywhere.
Nissan may have a different method for establishing preload. We didn't really get Patrols here so I've never had to look it up.
OTRAMM, I love your channel. Where are you located and how much do you charge for a regear? I DIY all of the other work on my Cruiser.
Thanks! We're in Bealeton VA about an hour SW of Washington DC. Shoot me an email at otramm@otramm.com and we can go over gear options and prices.
Any complaints about the locker?
We've installed quite a few and haven't heard anything but good things.
@@OTRAMM people are saying they disengage when in a technical situation. They say if the vehicle moves backwards it will disengage and you are not locked when moving forward.
@@nathanrotar5012 they unlock for like half a rotation. I don't see where it would really matter other than competition crawling.
Mate you’re unbelievable. Amazing work. Can I offer some constructive criticism about your video. As your doing an instructional video it’s very important to have a clear view of what’s happening. It seems that either your hand or you body is blocking the camera. May I suggest raise you camera up and place it at about 45 degrees. (From high looking down at 45) Eg you say stake the nut. Your there tapping but can’t see what you’re doing. Just looks like a guy with a hammer. I do realise you need to make a living and your life isn’t about you tube. I’m just saying your so talented, your videos good be even better. Please don’t take this as criticism, I highly appreciate the effort you go to. On a different not. Diffs are quite complicated. Omg. I’m smart enough to know I’m too dumb to do what you just did.
gday my friend, would this be the same on the VDJ Landcruisers? cheers
I don't know. We didn't get the VDJ models here. I would assume it's the same but I'm not positive.
That messed me up when your phone rang, it's the same as the phone I'm watching this on.
why the three and four marks ?! one mark for one side and non marked goes to the other side
Sometimes the marks don't stay clear after the parts washer. A distinct pattern makes sure I know which goes where.
do you do any videos on toyota pick ups ? basically the same tho
I haven't yet. We mostly just get Cruisers in the shop.
@@OTRAMM im doing front end and your vids have been a tremendous help thanks alot brother . only thing im struggling with is setting my pinion depth
@@jopaul93 pinion depth can be a pain. I usually start with the factory shim. Usually that'll be pretty close. Some gears brands take more finagling than others.
@@OTRAMM ok now my carrier one side the bearing was pressed on and the other side went on super easy just two taps so set it and it slipped right on is that gonna be to loose or will the bearing caps tighten enough to hold the bearing from spinning on the carrier
@@jopaul93 it may be on the loose side if it popped on easily. You can try staking the carrier. Take a center punch and make a bunch of small prick marks around the bearing surface of the carrier. The raised edges of the pricks will tighten it up. You could also use sleeve retaining compound. A new carrier would be best.
What brand is that dial indicator?
I think the one in that video is a Central. I had just dropped my Mitutoyo.
I think he's somewhere up North maybe Massachusetts
I lived in Boston for a bit, but we're back down in Virginia now.
Could you explain what you are looking for as far as the contact pattern goes. You show it in the video but don't explain exactly what it needs to look like.
The pattern reading is kind of a black art and not super early explained. When you get new gears the manual with them shows the various patterns and what they mean. It's easiest just to compare pics.
Thanks for the great video. I’m getting into my third diff rebuild and I really like your attachment to the engine stand. Really helpful when you need to rotate it back and forth setting up the pinion. Custom fabrication or off the shelf?
It's custom. If you look closely you can see how many times I've changed it. It started out bolted to my welding table, then changed to a quick release hitch style mount, then redone to bolt to the engine stand. I really like it on the engine stand.
Forgot to mention I think OTC sells a similar looking adapter. It's listed as a transmission holder. I've never seen one in person but saw one in a catalog years ago.
Your the type of bloke l don’t mind working on my vehicles very thorough , pity you live and work in America .. l don’t trust the ones in Australia too many cowboys...
I am the same way. Took my 80 to a Toyota repair shop and my 80 came back worse. Even did "repairs" without contacting me and charged me for it :/
пятно контакта отвратительное
SUBBED. Thanks for the video