Thank you Sir! I am a G M Master Tech retired, my son fiddles in Land Cruisers, wanted me to replace both his axles. You were very helpful and professional. Thanks again 👍👍
I've watched a few videos to see if i can do my 07 tundra, never tore into a differential before. This is the best video I've watched with best explanations, hands down. Thanks for posting it!!
you all prolly dont give a shit but does someone know a way to get back into an instagram account?? I somehow lost the login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me!
@Bentley Darwin Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
SUPER GOOD !!! Thanks so much. Very informative, and competent. I've got no hesitation now in getting the old girls diff refreshed Thanks again, you're a Jedi.
Hello! At 34:20 you had to adjust one of the adjusters so the keeper would line up. Do you loosen or tighten or whatever accomplishes the lineup to occur sooner? Was just wondering if there is an rule that you never loosen alway tighten.
Thanks for the great videos on the 80 series! In this diff rebuild video at 8:28 I see you have the spider gears removed but that teardown and inspection process isn't shown. Is it available in a separate video? I'm about to replace my front diff bearings as it very occasionally exhibits a bad vibration/buzz on throttle liftoff. On initial inspection my CW&P backlash looks OK and the CW&P gears look pristine. However, there seems to be excessive movement in the side gears. Is this normal to see on an uninstalled diff? Is the side gear movement/backlash likely to reduce once I replace all bearings, set preload, and reset the CW&P backlash? Or am I up for new set of spider gears as well?
Hello dear i have toyota land cruiser 2003 model. My car rear differential have sound while i am driving and but mechanic told me to change completely differential. If i do same procedure is it work.
Awesome... I like those diff adjusters - I did this on my '66 Bronco front axle and it was much more drawn out than this with shims etc. I'm surprised the bearing replacement didn't throw things out of wack with this project... I would have thought you would be re-shimming somewhere... Nice
Great video , just changed the oil in the read diff of my 200 series , noticed a small amount of metal specks, and what looked like a bit of bronze flake ! Have you seen that before , time to worry ?... cheers mark
Thanks for your good view And i would ask I have land cruiser my rear left axle always it break after it vibrates on the highway I fixed the whole mechanism of the rear axle hub and differential gears and i did replace the pinion bearings but left axle breaks again Could it be the carrier bearings? Or the small gears in the differential which always destroy the hub and vibrates the axle? I need the answer urgently because i am disappointed from this issue too much And thanks so much
There's no way to really know without measuring things and seeing the truck, but if you've broken two axle shafts my guess would be that the housing is bent.
Solid Pinion Spacer: If I set up my diff correctly on the bench using the crush spacer (minus new main pinion seal), can I simply pull the crush spacer and measure it to provide the total length required for a solid spacer plus shims? Or will the crush spacer 'relax' slightly providing an inaccurate measurement and therefore incorrect preload? I figure the price of a crush spacer is worth it to save multiple assembly/disassemblies and risk of damaging a bearing to get a solid spacer bearing preload correct.
I've never tried doing it that way. I'd guess that the crush sleeve would relax some when the load was removed. I don't know for sure though. I just use the crush sleeves. The solid spacers always seem to end up too tight or loose. The shims aren't small enough steps.
If all Americans were as kind as you, we'd have world peace! Thank you from OzMerica mate for a great teaching video. Successfully did the diff (with no noise) on an 86 Cruiser *HJ60 - Many Thanks. PS use some real wood (iron bark) on the floor from Australia ~ That soft crap bounces too much. : ) Another point of interest the pinion nut on the Cruisers has a reputation of coming loose...I use some 'Russian Locktite' (a quick zap with the mig) to lock it in there.
Fantastic job. You sir are an inspiration for me to tackle this myself. Quick question, when you start adding pre-load to carrier bearings, you say at 27:00 "you tighten until you don't have any play here". Where do you mean by "here"? You mean lateral play of the carrier assembly or any play on adjuster cup?
It depends on the year and the axle and if you have a way to lock the center diff while in high range. It's not something you'd want to do except in an emergency.
Hi Buddy how are you???….. quick question…… I install to my 1996 FJ80 Goodyear 33”…….. and i will like to upgrade gear ratio…….. is 4.88 ratio is great for this tire size?????……. Because i think that 4.56 ratio will be no difference…… please help me to solve this Thanks a lot
Why didn't you use any grease to the bearings? Are they bad to put since it'll be lubricanted with diff oil? Great video btw but i kinda wanted to see how the spider gears were taken out w/out taking d ring out (gonna put lunchbox locker on my rebuild) Thanks
Yes im curious about the spider gears to. Mine have some play but i dont know how much less the new ones would have. How to tell if i need to replace them??
Hi , thank you for sharing this video with excellent work , I want to ask you I just changed the four bearing because of a new noise coming from the differential but sadly now after the new bearing was fixed the noise becomes louder note the old bearing was not Flexible
It's hard to say without seeing it but I would guess either the backlash adjustment/preload is wrong or the gears wore a funky pattern with the bad bearings and are noisier now that they're back where the originally we're.
@@OTRAMM I know that base of pinion has a shim……. Where does other shims that come in Nitro Gear kit goes…….. the circumference of those shims are TO big and some are thicker then others
Wow that was quick. I got quoted 3 to 4 hours labour to replace the bearings in the rear diff of my 2004 HZJ105. I have an ARB air locker installed in the rear diff, does this mean I need a special bearing kit, or will the standard one do the job?
It's probably close to 3-4 hours by the time the diff is out and back in. We didn't get the 105 here so I'm not sure. Some of the ARBs take a different carrier bearing.
@@OTRAMM Ah okay, I think this is a rear diff pinion bearing that is being replaced, but they said it was wise to do the o-rings for the locker as well. I live remote and they're the only workshop in town, so I wasn't sure whether they were being honest or not.
Hi mate is there any way of knowing when the pinion crush is correct when the centre is still in the vehicle?I want to replace pinion seal only and not have to pull it all to bits if I can help it
Thanks so much mate I finally did the rebuild and turned out great .planning on doing the transfer case rebuild next . Do you have a video on that ? It’s a h55 box . In a hzj75 Ute 1992 model
Is the tundra differential more problematic that the one your working on? And if the pinion bearings aren't wore do they need changed? I've seen that a few videos only change the pinion bearings, and a few that say they arent bad but since your already in there doing the pinion you may as well change the carrier. I ask because im on a budget, and don't have the 2,000 bucks the parts store wants for the master bearing set. I called toyota for a price and when i asked if their 80 a piece bearings came with races, they said i must not be talking about differential bearings because they don't have races. And then i was told id need to know the shim size because they have 40 different thicknesses. Ive never done a differential bearing job, and it seems the parts store and toyota are confusing me with information. One wants me to buy the 2,000 dollar master kit, the toyota shop wants me to bring it in for them to do a 2,100 dollar fix. My buddie works on heavy equipment, semis, dump trucks, cars and trucks and said get the parts and he'd help me for a couple hundred bucks. He has the pullers and a press, and he also said if carrier bearings aren't bad don't waste the money. If we get it tore down and they look bad we'd replace them, which sounds logical to me and saves me a bunch of money if i don't have to buy master kit or pay toyota. Your going thru the process like you could do it in your sleep, so i thought I'd ask for your thoughts. There's no slop when i jacked the truck off the ground and spun the tires, no clunking in drive shaft and differential, so other than the hum i wouldn't be able to tell there was any problem. Any feed back would be appreciated. Do you have a link to Kevin's bearings you mentioned?
There's no way the master kit is 2k. Your parts store is crazy. The Toyota bearings do come with races. I'd check cruiseroutfitters or nitrogear for a master kit. They're likely 300 or so. You'll probably still need shims from Toyota. They're usually special order and by thickness. The factory manual has a chart for figuring sizes.
Hi...I've got an old 1986 Landrcruiser (SWB 4 Cyl. 3.4L Diesel) that's suddenly developed a clunking (not a whine) sound from the rear axle and I've noticed that the pinion/prop-shaft backlash is more than an inch...could it be that the "crushable-sleeve" has collapsed? If so, can I change just the sleeve and seals without having to replace all the bearings as in your video? Thanks, Kevin
Of it's got movement the bearings are shot. The nut may have backed off, the crush sleeve may have collapsed or the bearings just wore out. Either way the run loose and need replacement.
You have to be really careful with that. The bearings and races can shatter since they're hardened. I've had a few break over the years doing that. Picking race bits out of your hand isn't fun.
Good stuff man, thanks for posting. About to do the bearings on an 03 4 runner 8in rear end. Do you happen to know what bearing race driver kit works with those bearings? Seen several different sets and was leaning to the Lisle pinion bearing race kit but seems to only mention domestic vehicles.
None of the kits we have fit perfect. They all work though. We've got two lisle sets and a snap on. I prefer the lisle pinion race kit for diffs just for the longer handle.
Super helpful dude! Thanks for this. I’m about to take on this job with a Toyota 8” rear diff and it’s nice to see the process laid out so clearly in video form. Quick question: for your dial style torque wrench are you just running a 1/2” drive socket on a 1/4 to 1/2” adapter? Seems like inch pound beam or dial style with inch pounds only come in 1/4” drive.
i have a noise coming from front diff area on a 91 LC . My guess is pinion bearing is going out and my mechanic agreed with me when he looked /heard the noise. curious on what the cost would be to replace bearings on the front diff. what are your thoughts?
Cost can vary quite a bit depending on local labor rates, quality of parts, and what's done with it. It could be maybe 1k for just bearings up to maybe 2500 if our do bearings, knuckle rebuild, brake rotors, and birfields.
OTRAMM unfortunately I do not have a manual so I have to go off a combination of sources. Mostly, Zuks and you. Zuks says 11-17 which seems like a wide gap. If you have a more precise spec I would gladly use it. Thanks
What are your thoughts on solid pinion spacers as opposed to crush sleeves? I've only ever seen the Nitro brand spacers for 9.5" diffs and haven't heard anything bad about them, but given how recent this video is and the fact you used a crush sleeve I'm curious what your take is on them.
I've done solid spacers when the customer asks for them. They're more of a pain to set up and it never seems like you can get the preload just right. It's always either a bit tight or a bit loose due to the steps in shim sizes. The only advantage I see is that you can change the pinion seal later without having to replaces the crush sleeve. I don't see it as enough advantage to use them though. Crush sleeves were good enough for Toyota and last 100s of thousands of miles.
hey how are you? can i just adjust my rear diff without all the measurements tools? just decrease the play between those 2 ? it doesn't matter if the end result is not perfect , just decrease it, can i cause any damage doing that ? is a 1996 80 series land cruiser. thank you so much man, your tutorials are the best ones !
@@OTRAMMeven if is just close the gap? I'm just referring to the last part of the video, just adjust the play , nothing with bearing or race let say that it have a play of 30, and adjusted to 15 , that can ruin the gear ? sorry to bother you again
Since I was just changing bearings , I could reuse the existing shim. Changing gears you've got to do the dance to find the right depth. I usually start with the factory shim and adjust based on the pattern.
Ryan what is the right time to tight up the pinion nut ? You set the preload but I didn’t see when you set the final ft-lbs ? By the way what is the right ft-lbs for this nut ?
You can't just tighten it up. Tightening the pinion but crushes the crush sleeve to set preload. You tighten slowly while checking preload. It's whatever torque it takes to get preload correct. If you go too far you have to replace the crush sleeve which is why you can't just tighten it up.
@@MiguelHernandez-fu9vq solid spacers get the preload set by changing shims. Sometimes it's hard to get the preload dialed in exactly where it should be. The nice thing is that you can change the seal later without worrying about the crush sleeve.
It depends on the vintage of the diff. The old solid spacer ones you can. The newer crush sleeve style you really can't. The crush sleeve needs to be replaced if it's loosened.
@@OTRAMM I purchased a rear limited slip diff the other day. installed it and its humming, would it more than likely be the pinion bearing? do they go much easier than the carrier bearings? ( humming is present above 20kph and under throttle/deceleration)
Thank you Sir! I am a G M Master Tech retired, my son fiddles in Land Cruisers, wanted me to replace both his axles. You were very helpful and professional. Thanks again 👍👍
I've watched a few videos to see if i can do my 07 tundra, never tore into a differential before. This is the best video I've watched with best explanations, hands down. Thanks for posting it!!
you all prolly dont give a shit but does someone know a way to get back into an instagram account??
I somehow lost the login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me!
@Joshua Matias Instablaster :)
@Bentley Darwin Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Bentley Darwin it worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my ass :D
@Joshua Matias happy to help :D
I'm Impressed!
Yes,you are a good instructor!
I've taken my 87 Toyota half ton rear end out today. If the gears look ok,
I may do what u did here.
Your knowledge of the land cruiser is fantastic
Thank you. M
Nice and professional, thanks!
U R A GOOD TEACHER!
SUPER GOOD !!! Thanks so much. Very informative, and competent. I've got no hesitation now in getting the old girls diff refreshed Thanks again, you're a Jedi.
Awesome! Glad it was helpful.
Are the factory diff lock differential different? Just did mine and there was no adjustment for the carrier just shims.
Yep, the factory lockers are shims instead of adjusters
@@OTRAMM what would cause the new gears to make a shhhhhh noise while driving? Is that normal
@@Logan_H701 they shouldn't be making any noise. No way of saying what's causing it without seeing them.
Now that was a great video, thank you for your efforts!
Another great video. Thank you for passing along the knowledge. I've never seen it done before.
Thank you for showing this!
No problem. I'll be doing a more in depth video on regearing hopefully next week.
Very easy to understand. Great detail cheers mate.
Outstanding.... thank you for sharing.
Saludos desde las canarias 🇮🇨 me podrías decir qué modelo de Toyota es me gustaría saber del land cruiser modelo kj90 año 2000
Thank you for another amazing Video. I will be doing this project shortly.
Hello! At 34:20 you had to adjust one of the adjusters so the keeper would line up. Do you loosen or tighten or whatever accomplishes the lineup to occur sooner? Was just wondering if there is an rule that you never loosen alway tighten.
I generally try and tighten them to line them up.
@@OTRAMM Thanks for the quick response! I love watching your videos. Hope you are doing well.
Thanks for sharing such valuable info. Will use your services in the near future for sure. Your work is so precise.
Good video. What size bearing splitter did you use on the pinion?
Ayyyyy lol got the same gloves lolol they really good this guy must know what he's doing if he got them gloves
How did you remove the carrier bearing?
Thanks for doing this video and sharing your knowledge. Can I ask what kind of sealant you used on the seals itself.
Thanks
Dave
We usually use the Toyota transmission case sealer.
Great job mate👍👍
nice work Sir,
I just realised that tool is not expensive, maybe I'm going to bought it and do the thing the right way
Another great video Thank mate
I've used red RTV on the transmission flange but never on the outside of the seal.
It seems to make the seal easier to drive in and it gives a bit of extra protection against leaks.
Thanks for the great videos on the 80 series!
In this diff rebuild video at 8:28 I see you have the spider gears removed but that teardown and inspection process isn't shown. Is it available in a separate video?
I'm about to replace my front diff bearings as it very occasionally exhibits a bad vibration/buzz on throttle liftoff.
On initial inspection my CW&P backlash looks OK and the CW&P gears look pristine. However, there seems to be excessive movement in the side gears. Is this normal to see on an uninstalled diff?
Is the side gear movement/backlash likely to reduce once I replace all bearings, set preload, and reset the CW&P backlash? Or am I up for new set of spider gears as well?
I've never had to replace a set of spiders. I don't why those were out. Usually we only pull them on the old semi float rears.
Hello dear i have toyota land cruiser 2003 model. My car rear differential have sound while i am driving and but mechanic told me to change completely differential. If i do same procedure is it work.
Awesome... I like those diff adjusters - I did this on my '66 Bronco front axle and it was much more drawn out than this with shims etc. I'm surprised the bearing replacement didn't throw things out of wack with this project... I would have thought you would be re-shimming somewhere... Nice
Great video , just changed the oil in the read diff of my 200 series , noticed a small amount of metal specks, and what looked like a bit of bronze flake ! Have you seen that before , time to worry ?... cheers mark
Thanks for your good view
And i would ask
I have land cruiser my rear left axle always it break after it vibrates on the highway
I fixed the whole mechanism of the rear axle hub and differential gears and i did replace the pinion bearings but left axle breaks again
Could it be the carrier bearings? Or the small gears in the differential which always destroy the hub and vibrates the axle?
I need the answer urgently because i am disappointed from this issue too much
And thanks so much
There's no way to really know without measuring things and seeing the truck, but if you've broken two axle shafts my guess would be that the housing is bent.
Solid Pinion Spacer: If I set up my diff correctly on the bench using the crush spacer (minus new main pinion seal), can I simply pull the crush spacer and measure it to provide the total length required for a solid spacer plus shims? Or will the crush spacer 'relax' slightly providing an inaccurate measurement and therefore incorrect preload?
I figure the price of a crush spacer is worth it to save multiple assembly/disassemblies and risk of damaging a bearing to get a solid spacer bearing preload correct.
I've never tried doing it that way. I'd guess that the crush sleeve would relax some when the load was removed. I don't know for sure though. I just use the crush sleeves. The solid spacers always seem to end up too tight or loose. The shims aren't small enough steps.
@@OTRAMM Thx. I'm overthinking it. I'll stick with the crush sleeve. It's worked for the past 25 years........
Thanks so much for this video. I have a couple to do. Is it the same procedure with the factory Toyota e-locker diff?
It's pretty close. One carrier bearing is different on the elocker ones.
If all Americans were as kind as you, we'd have world peace! Thank you from OzMerica mate for a great teaching video. Successfully did the diff (with no noise) on an 86 Cruiser *HJ60 - Many Thanks. PS use some real wood (iron bark) on the floor from Australia ~ That soft crap bounces too much. : )
Another point of interest the pinion nut on the Cruisers has a reputation of coming loose...I use some 'Russian Locktite' (a quick zap with the mig) to lock it in there.
Sweet, glad the rebuild was a success. I should grab some hard wood from my dad's shop. I usually use whatever is laying around :)
Wonderful and well explained video! Thanks
Fantastic job. You sir are an inspiration for me to tackle this myself. Quick question, when you start adding pre-load to carrier bearings, you say at 27:00 "you tighten until you don't have any play here".
Where do you mean by "here"? You mean lateral play of the carrier assembly or any play on adjuster cup?
i think he is meaning side to side play.
@@ashtontaylor5386 thank you!
Thanks for the informative work. can an 80 series landcruiser be driven without a diff?
It depends on the year and the axle and if you have a way to lock the center diff while in high range. It's not something you'd want to do except in an emergency.
Looks like the spider gears were out of the carrier….?
Yep, on the semi floats you have to pull them to get the diff out
Hi Ray Nice to see you videos.where you have you shop
Bealeton, VA
hi I need to know what kind of key he uses to measure the pressure
Hi Buddy how are you???….. quick question…… I install to my 1996 FJ80 Goodyear 33”…….. and i will like to upgrade gear ratio…….. is 4.88 ratio is great for this tire size?????……. Because i think that 4.56 ratio will be no difference…… please help me to solve this
Thanks a lot
4:88 is mathematically correct for 33's. Most folks don't bother regearing til 35's though
great video! just wondering what kind of torque wrench that is you use to check your bearing drag.
It's a CDI inch pound wrench. There's a link to it the tools we use on our website. www.otramm.com/land-cruiser-drivetrain-repair-videos.html
@@OTRAMM thank you very much
Why didn't you use any grease to the bearings? Are they bad to put since it'll be lubricanted with diff oil? Great video btw but i kinda wanted to see how the spider gears were taken out w/out taking d ring out (gonna put lunchbox locker on my rebuild)
Thanks
The preload procedures just spec a light coat of gear oil so that's all I use. Grease would throw off the preload measurements.
Why would you grease a bearing that's easier to oil??
Yes im curious about the spider gears to. Mine have some play but i dont know how much less the new ones would have. How to tell if i need to replace them??
Hi , thank you for sharing this video with excellent work , I want to ask you I just changed the four bearing because of a new noise coming from the differential but sadly now after the new bearing was fixed the noise becomes louder note the old bearing was not Flexible
It's hard to say without seeing it but I would guess either the backlash adjustment/preload is wrong or the gears wore a funky pattern with the bad bearings and are noisier now that they're back where the originally we're.
What do you think the mechanic did wrong and I think he did not tided the bolts with torch
OTRAMM think so much for replying I think I need to open it a gain 😢
hi how are you? great videos man.
can you tell me what is the diameter of the carrier bearing adjuster toll ? thank you so much
Shoot me an email so I remember to check when I'm at the shop. The one we use most often was cheap from Randy's Ring and Pinion.
@@OTRAMM hi how are you? can you tell me your email , I tried to find it but no luck, thanks again
Hi Would you show me how to do the same thing toyota land cruiser hj61 with lock on cable with rear axle
We never got those in the US.
What's the dial torque wrench you're using, I've bn looking to buy one, what range torque is it. Thanks
It's an inch pound dial torque wrench. I think it's from CDI.
Hi. How tight should the splines be between the flange and the pinion shaft? I have noticeable slack on the one I am doing. Many thanks.
There Should be just enough play that they can slide together.
@@OTRAMM I have got more than that, not sure if I will get away with locktite or something? what you say makes sense. Thanks.
hey there, if I were to send you my rear diff off my 2002 tundra would you do the rebuild and ship it back?
Shoot me an email to otramm@otramm.com and I can get an estimate together.
Replacing a pinion seal on my FJ40. Saw you used sealer on the pinion seal. What kind of sealer do you use?
We usually use the orange Toyota FIPG. Any gear oil rated RTV will work though.
Hi how are you??….. im re gearing my 96 FJ80 with 4.88……… on new kit comes some shims…… do i need to use them?????
Thanks
Yes
@@OTRAMM I know that base of pinion has a shim……. Where does other shims that come in Nitro Gear kit goes…….. the circumference of those shims are TO big and some are thicker then others
@@alexmoreno-oc5oe regearing isn't really a job to learn on. You'll want someone who's done them before to do it or show you how.
Wow that was quick. I got quoted 3 to 4 hours labour to replace the bearings in the rear diff of my 2004 HZJ105. I have an ARB air locker installed in the rear diff, does this mean I need a special bearing kit, or will the standard one do the job?
It's probably close to 3-4 hours by the time the diff is out and back in. We didn't get the 105 here so I'm not sure. Some of the ARBs take a different carrier bearing.
@@OTRAMM Ah okay, I think this is a rear diff pinion bearing that is being replaced, but they said it was wise to do the o-rings for the locker as well. I live remote and they're the only workshop in town, so I wasn't sure whether they were being honest or not.
Hi mate is there any way of knowing when the pinion crush is correct when the centre is still in the vehicle?I want to replace pinion seal only and not have to pull it all to bits if I can help it
Not that I'm aware of. We pull the diff out and do the seal on the bench. Most of the time they're due for bearings anyway.
Thanks so much mate I finally did the rebuild and turned out great .planning on doing the transfer case rebuild next . Do you have a video on that ? It’s a h55 box . In a hzj75 Ute 1992 model
You are the BEST
Is the tundra differential more problematic that the one your working on? And if the pinion bearings aren't wore do they need changed? I've seen that a few videos only change the pinion bearings, and a few that say they arent bad but since your already in there doing the pinion you may as well change the carrier. I ask because im on a budget, and don't have the 2,000 bucks the parts store wants for the master bearing set. I called toyota for a price and when i asked if their 80 a piece bearings came with races, they said i must not be talking about differential bearings because they don't have races. And then i was told id need to know the shim size because they have 40 different thicknesses. Ive never done a differential bearing job, and it seems the parts store and toyota are confusing me with information. One wants me to buy the 2,000 dollar master kit, the toyota shop wants me to bring it in for them to do a 2,100 dollar fix. My buddie works on heavy equipment, semis, dump trucks, cars and trucks and said get the parts and he'd help me for a couple hundred bucks. He has the pullers and a press, and he also said if carrier bearings aren't bad don't waste the money. If we get it tore down and they look bad we'd replace them, which sounds logical to me and saves me a bunch of money if i don't have to buy master kit or pay toyota. Your going thru the process like you could do it in your sleep, so i thought I'd ask for your thoughts. There's no slop when i jacked the truck off the ground and spun the tires, no clunking in drive shaft and differential, so other than the hum i wouldn't be able to tell there was any problem. Any feed back would be appreciated. Do you have a link to Kevin's bearings you mentioned?
There's no way the master kit is 2k. Your parts store is crazy. The Toyota bearings do come with races. I'd check cruiseroutfitters or nitrogear for a master kit. They're likely 300 or so. You'll probably still need shims from Toyota. They're usually special order and by thickness. The factory manual has a chart for figuring sizes.
Hi...I've got an old 1986 Landrcruiser (SWB 4 Cyl. 3.4L Diesel) that's suddenly developed a clunking (not a whine) sound from the rear axle and I've noticed that the pinion/prop-shaft backlash is more than an inch...could it be that the "crushable-sleeve" has collapsed? If so, can I change just the sleeve and seals without having to replace all the bearings as in your video?
Thanks, Kevin
Of it's got movement the bearings are shot. The nut may have backed off, the crush sleeve may have collapsed or the bearings just wore out. Either way the run loose and need replacement.
@@OTRAMM Thanks for your advice
If you dont have all the tools, cut the cages off the old bearings and you can use the old bearings and races to drive the new ones in back on.
You have to be really careful with that. The bearings and races can shatter since they're hardened. I've had a few break over the years doing that. Picking race bits out of your hand isn't fun.
Good stuff man, thanks for posting. About to do the bearings on an 03 4 runner 8in rear end. Do you happen to know what bearing race driver kit works with those bearings? Seen several different sets and was leaning to the Lisle pinion bearing race kit but seems to only mention domestic vehicles.
None of the kits we have fit perfect. They all work though. We've got two lisle sets and a snap on. I prefer the lisle pinion race kit for diffs just for the longer handle.
@@OTRAMM ok cool good to know, thanks man
Dose it matter which way the oil slinger is placed back on the pinion ?
It will only go on one way. The fins bend towards the flange. Backwards and the fins get smashed flat against the bearing.
Super helpful dude! Thanks for this. I’m about to take on this job with a Toyota 8” rear diff and it’s nice to see the process laid out so clearly in video form. Quick question: for your dial style torque wrench are you just running a 1/2” drive socket on a 1/4 to 1/2” adapter? Seems like inch pound beam or dial style with inch pounds only come in 1/4” drive.
Yep, it's got an adapter to step it up to the larger socket drive.
@@OTRAMM thanks!!
i have a noise coming from front diff area on a 91 LC . My guess is pinion bearing is going out and my mechanic agreed with me when he looked /heard the noise. curious on what the cost would be to replace bearings on the front diff. what are your thoughts?
Cost can vary quite a bit depending on local labor rates, quality of parts, and what's done with it. It could be maybe 1k for just bearings up to maybe 2500 if our do bearings, knuckle rebuild, brake rotors, and birfields.
@@OTRAMM thanks! Planning on doing knuckle / birf rebuild myself
great video , what's that drag dial gauge your using , I'm struggling to find it's proper name cheers 👍
It's a dial type inch pound torque wrench. I think there's a link to it on the videos page of our website.
I have read 9-11 for new pinion bearing preload and I have watched you do 18. I am working a 62 9.5" Which do I do?
Used bearing is lower like your 9-11, new bearings are higher so they wear in to the proper load. You need the manual though to have exact specs
OTRAMM unfortunately I do not have a manual so I have to go off a combination of sources. Mostly, Zuks and you. Zuks says 11-17 which seems like a wide gap. If you have a more precise spec I would gladly use it. Thanks
Are the front and back diff the same!
Depends on the model. 40,60,62,55 yes. Newer stuff is different in front.
What are your thoughts on solid pinion spacers as opposed to crush sleeves? I've only ever seen the Nitro brand spacers for 9.5" diffs and haven't heard anything bad about them, but given how recent this video is and the fact you used a crush sleeve I'm curious what your take is on them.
I've done solid spacers when the customer asks for them. They're more of a pain to set up and it never seems like you can get the preload just right. It's always either a bit tight or a bit loose due to the steps in shim sizes. The only advantage I see is that you can change the pinion seal later without having to replaces the crush sleeve. I don't see it as enough advantage to use them though. Crush sleeves were good enough for Toyota and last 100s of thousands of miles.
hey how are you?
can i just adjust my rear diff without all the measurements tools? just decrease the play between those 2 ? it doesn't matter if the end result is not perfect , just decrease it, can i cause any damage doing that ? is a 1996 80 series land cruiser. thank you so much man, your tutorials are the best ones !
You can't do it without the measurement tools or a ton of experience. You can ruin the gears really quick if you get it wrong.
@@OTRAMMeven if is just close the gap? I'm just referring to the last part of the video, just adjust the play , nothing with bearing or race
let say that it have a play of 30, and adjusted to 15 , that can ruin the gear ?
sorry to bother you again
Did you just use the old pinion shim to set pinion depth? I’m rebuilding a 10.5 tundra rear diff myself
Since I was just changing bearings , I could reuse the existing shim. Changing gears you've got to do the dance to find the right depth. I usually start with the factory shim and adjust based on the pattern.
Where did you get that bearing puller? I've been trying to find a good one like that but haven't had any luck?
The carrier bearing puller? It's a Marco but I think OTC makes it.
@@OTRAMM perfect, thank you!
Ryan what is the right time to tight up the pinion nut ? You set the preload but I didn’t see when you set the final ft-lbs ? By the way what is the right ft-lbs for this nut ?
You can't just tighten it up. Tightening the pinion but crushes the crush sleeve to set preload. You tighten slowly while checking preload. It's whatever torque it takes to get preload correct. If you go too far you have to replace the crush sleeve which is why you can't just tighten it up.
OTRAMM perfect got it , I destroyed the pinion bearing set and It was de reason . Second question: what about solid spacer ? Same procedure ?
@@MiguelHernandez-fu9vq solid spacers get the preload set by changing shims. Sometimes it's hard to get the preload dialed in exactly where it should be. The nice thing is that you can change the seal later without worrying about the crush sleeve.
Can the rear pinion seal be replaced without removing the pinion gear and shaft?
It depends on the vintage of the diff. The old solid spacer ones you can. The newer crush sleeve style you really can't. The crush sleeve needs to be replaced if it's loosened.
@@OTRAMM im not sure. Its a 93 fzj80
@@wolfman5494 93 is going to be crush sleeve style.
@@OTRAMM Damn! Weekend plans dashed. Thanks for the heads up though. Saved me a huge headache.
What torque wrench did you use to measure the drag?
It's a CDI dial inch pound torque wrench
Im rebuilding a Toyota 8" out of a solid axle hilux. Are the tensions the same across toyota?
The process is the same, the torque settings are likely different. It's been forever since I put an 8" together.
no
thanks very good job
How do you set the Pinion Depth? Do you just set it by looking at the paint pattern?
There's a factory depth setting tool but I've never seen it in person. I do them based on the paint pattern.
The depth distance comes printed on the face of the pinion right?
Is this the same process as a toyota hilux diff from the 1990s
It's not exactly the same but pretty close. Well for the rear at least. The front is different.
@@OTRAMM I purchased a rear limited slip diff the other day. installed it and its humming, would it more than likely be the pinion bearing? do they go much easier than the carrier bearings? ( humming is present above 20kph and under throttle/deceleration)
Pinion bearings seem to go sooner than carrier bearings and are easier to hear.
Man, what an excellent video. Do you also sell parts?
I can, but we don't really stock much. I usually refer folks to Cruiser Brothers and Cruiser Outfitters.
Is this relatively the same for the front diff?
It's mostly the same process. Some of the specs change
How do you mount these to a stand or what do you have it secured tp?
Looks like he is using a normal engine stand.
twwtb he said he made it custom to fit the stand
Where did you get that differential holder?
It's homemade. I think OTC sells a similar one though. They may call it a transmission holder
Woow man good job
Vere good I Like this
I like your channel I have subscribed
parts list is not loading, goes to a dead link at amazon.
Thanks, I'll have to see what I can do to fix it
The links are working from my end. Here's the list on our website. www.otramm.com/land-cruiser-drivetrain-repair-videos.html
how strange, I get a 404 from within the video, but it works manually. this is a great list. I bookmarked it. thanks.
👍
I NOTE YOU ARE QUOTING THOUSANDS ON YOUR BACKLASH, BUT YOU ARE USING A METRIC DTI gauge.
brother, your videos and explanations are awesome. But, please... get a camera person.
You realize that I do these for free right? I'm pretty sure camera people cost money.
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