I am restoring a Kohler Magnum 12, from the sound it made I think the crank is broke. Soon as I know for sure, I'll be ordering parts from you Norman. So glad to be able to still get parts for these old engines.
Great job on the video. I came to see if it would show why the breaker points push rod no longer pushes the points. It appears there is a lobe on the camshaft. So that suggests the cam is not turning, or the lobe on the cam is so worn there is nothing left to push the pin. There was no noise to indicate trouble. I parked it and about 30 seconds later tried to start and no spark. With the points removed I cranked the engine with my finger on the pin and there was no movement. Guess I'll be doing a tear down.
you need to show removing and installing a older k241 cam that is 2 pieces . mine fell apart in the block pulling it out. and now not sure witch way the lobe for the points goes back in.
I’ve got a Koehler 141 engine I broke the governor pin. Could you do a video please or show one and I can get it re-welded together if possible thank you
So this is an odd question but do u know how to make aluminum dually rims cuz i got a 2 year project starting this summer my plan is to build a small ride able semi truck?
@@Isavetractors I have one of those compressors that looks like two sets of chopsticks with a t handle to tighten it up with. I can't seem to get the valve spring, keepers on top and bottom, and rotator, all in the jaws of the compressor, and get all that out.. I was thinking maybe I need to bite it differently and only take the spring out. Or only the retainers, then the spring will have room?
Yea those kind take a little tweaking. Widen the little "fingers" on the tool so it will hold the spring just right then you can tighten the spring all the way down. It takes a little knack to get it right
@@Isavetractors I adjusted the adjuster all the way down. Then got a bite on the coil of the spring and not the top. Then I removed the rotator, and retainer, then slid the spring down. Got the top cap. Then compressed just the spring and took it out. Took some doing and about 20 minutes of deep thought. Now.. I'm pretty sure the intake valve is supposed to have a rotator as well according to diagrams. Can you confirm that the intake and exhaust rotators are the same size, I can't find a part number for both the intake and exhaust rotators. Only one shows in everything I can find.
Hi i have a k582 that came from a homelite generator that i have never found anything on but is there any way i could find a governor gear a bunch of teeth are missing on mine.
I have what may be a dumb question, but I was working on my k341 and made a mistake and caused the rod to break. When I opened it up, the cylinder wall looked fine, and the crank cleaned up nicely, and nothing looks out of round, but the piston skirt was broken on one side. Otherwise, the piston looked just fine. Is there any way of reusing the piston even with the piston skirt broken on one side or would it cause an out of balance condition and lead to eventual failure?
Norman the tab has broken off my governer cross shaft can I just pull the cam shaft to replace the cross shaft or do I have to pull the crank shaft? great website, lots info thanx
In order to pull the camshaft you will need to pull the crankshaft too. While you're there you should inspect the crank, bore, bearings and replace gaskets and seals if needed
Was your governor cross shaft missing the tab that goes to the governor gear? It's a fairly common problem with those engines for it to snap off. And fall to the oil pan. I put a bead of weld on mine to reinforce it whenever I have them out.
Thanks for the informative videos. I recently just got one of your new carbs and it works fantastic....thank you....Quick question I hope you can help me with..I have built off road bike engines, 2 and 4 stroke for years, but I am having an issue with my K341. It worked perfectly for a month with the new carb and parts. My tank my fully cleaned, as well as new fuel lines, fuel shut off, and in line filter...I do not believe my problem is carb related, but possibly governor related? I never had to mess with governors on my dirt bike builds..lol! This is why I am asking. What it is now doing is after starting the engine. Just opening the throttle slightly is making the engine over rev. Then put it back to idle position and it stays running fast. .I would then quickly push the throttle lever up and down once and it would go back to normal idle...only to do the same thing again...I looked over all linkages from where the cables connect to where the governor rod moves and nothing is getting caught...I'm a little at a loss if you have any suggestions? I did already reset the governor shaft...it moves as it should when not running and was able to check it and it is correct. The governor spring is in the normal factory position...Cable linkage end is slightly elongated in the hole making it probably a little to less sensitive but I know this isn't what is causing this...when its racing, I took my gloved hand and lightly pushed on the governor shaft to see if it was freely moving..no luck as it is like its stuck there,,,,until I blip the throttle fast and then you can operate it even while the engine is running....Is there weights or something inside on the governor set up that push out by centrifigual force to control is or is it something I am going to have to tear down and replace something....the points gap is holding so I know the came itself shouldn't be grooved or worn...thanks in advance...I need my 1650!! lol For now I am going to take everything off including the cam cover and double check everything..I did replace the bolt where the throttle and choke cables hook to the "levers" with the holes in them as it was stripped inside do to old age and loosening up and it messed it up...i replaced it with the correct size and length and had to put a lock nut on the inside as it seems that it originally had a nut welded into place? not sure hard to see in there...Everything was laid out in order and put back in order and no snags and works as it should.....I'm all ears,,I use this tractor doing my gravel driveway part time job of my own at night and weekends...i use the plow and a small land leveler for small jobs behind it as well as a heavy filled roller to pack it down smooth when finished....My other little Husqvarna lawnmower that is belt driven to the rear end won't take that job very long...help! My main Ford 3910 with FEL and stone rake is lonely without the old cub, :)
Hi There, thanks for your comment. A common breakage point is the governor cross shaft. Try: Remove the governor arm off of the cross shaft, after disconnecting all linkages leading to and from it. Now try to rotate that cross shaft you should feel it press against the governor gear when rotated counter clockwise. If you don't feel anything and it just rotates it means the cross shaft broke. The cross shaft is the piece inside that pushes against the weights on the governor gear. Without this cross shaft, your governor is not able to govern the throttle. This happens, and I've seen it personally on engines that come through my shop many times. Unfortunately to replace the cross shaft, you have to completely disassemble the engine. Give that a check and let me know what you find.
Will do thank you...I just got home from my regular night job and was heading out to the shop to work on the Cub for awhile...thanks for the quick response....I do believe it is not rotating though as I checked it to see if it came out of adjustment...i just scribe lightly a straight vertical line to help with the visual when retightening...it stopped where it was supposed to then...I will take it all off and check again and let you know in awhile...thank you.
Finally got there....Anyhow I took the governor arm off and the shaft is stopping as normal when you turn it counterclockwise...let go and it will slightly shift clockwise on its own....then it turns clockwise almost a 1/4 turn and stops again...slight in and out play...
That's normal. Next do a "Static Adjustment" it's described in the Kohler manual. You essentially make it so the cross shaft matches the governor arm on the outside. Reinstall your governor arm but leave it slightly loose. Install throttle linkage. Grab the cross shaft with pliers and turn counter clockwise until it stops on the governor gear. Now rotate the governor arm until the throttle is at WOT. Tighten everything. This synchronizes the cross shaft to the carburetor.
thank you....Well I found the issue..I can't believe it broke already..I got looking at the new carburetor and the throttle shaft pin or rivet whatever its called..the linkage the governor rod attaches to the carb..well it broke loose from the throttle linkage..same thing my oem did....dang it didn't last a month....I repaired the original with long cure jb weld and used it till the new carb came in.....I don't really want to return it so I will patch it up like the old one...it must be a weak spot in these carbs to have it come loose and its letting the throttle valve do whatever it wants....now i know what it was sticking and lost throttle control.....thanks for the help....if i decide to return i will pm you guys on your website....thank you for your time.
Hi Norman I was wondering how you got into garden tractors and do you run the store by yourself or do you have other people who help and I would also like to see a video on your garden tractor graveyard thanks
Might not be anything wrong but points came way out of adjustment. Loosen the points adjustment screw and push the moveable contact all the way in. Now does the points plunger move? If so, reset gap and off you go.
Hi Norman ! I am from Romania, Europe, and I have a big problem. My 12 hp Kohler engine have the crankshaft out of standard mesure , practic is oval . Kohler engine is from Haward Gem rotovator, english product. From where I can buy a new crankshaft, or a good one? Because I have all kit from reconstruction, but the crankshaft is inexistent of the market. Please respond me, and dont judge me for the gramatic.
I am restoring a Kohler Magnum 12, from the sound it made I think the crank is broke. Soon as I know for sure, I'll be ordering parts from you Norman. So glad to be able to still get parts for these old engines.
This dude knows these tractors in and out . Real pro dose things right great videos thanks man.
This has been very helpful. Currently doing a mechanical restoration on a Cub 1210 that threw a rod
Great video, how many mm should the points plunger move out for normal operation.
I’m gonna go for it Norman. Going to rebuild the ford lgt 145 with a k321👍🏼
This is very helpful for me as i am trying to restore a simplicity 7112 with the kohler k301 that has bad piston rings.
Great job on the video.
I came to see if it would show why the breaker points push rod no longer pushes the points.
It appears there is a lobe on the camshaft. So that suggests the cam is not turning, or the lobe on the cam is so worn there is nothing left to push the pin. There was no noise to indicate trouble. I parked it and about 30 seconds later tried to start and no spark. With the points removed I cranked the engine with my finger on the pin and there was no movement. Guess I'll be doing a tear down.
Love the audio on these older vids. Im expecting to hear "theres a yellow van in the parking lot, your lights are on" lol
you need to show removing and installing a older k241 cam that is 2 pieces .
mine fell apart in the block pulling it out. and now not sure witch way the lobe for the points goes back in.
I’ve got a Koehler 141 engine I broke the governor pin. Could you do a video please or show one and I can get it re-welded together if possible thank you
Good job Norman
Thanks!
I was wondering if you would know where to find the valve guides or valve sleeves
We sell the valve guides here: isavetractors.com/valve-guide-for-kohler-k241-k301-k321-k341-m10-m12-m14-m16-engines/
@@Isavetractors thank you is there any machining needed for these valve guides?
I didn't notice during disassembly the oil hole on the rod. does that go on the cam side?
Yes camside side with both cap and rod also matching
Where/what name tool is that you're using to compress the valve springs? thanks!
I need some guidance reinstalling my crankshaft, actually just not sure about lining up the two smaller gears on the right
Send us an email or give us a call
Those circular cone shaped things that retain the valves are called Collets. At least over here in Aust.
I've got a John Deere 214 got hot spark gas to carb all new ignition parts still won't start ??
I was wondering how you get the paint off the engine and paint it?
Many ways. Degreaser and paint over it, sandblast it, chemical paint remover, angle grinder with wire brush, sandpaper, etc.
So this is an odd question but do u know how to make aluminum dually rims cuz i got a 2 year project starting this summer my plan is to build a small ride able semi truck?
You can use these wheel spacers to set up duelies: www.millertire.com/products/wheels/parts/dual-spacers/12-dual-wheel-spacer-kit-with-12-bolts/
isavetractors thx
Is it possible to take the valve springs out without removing the long valve guides, or removing the push rod adjusters?
Yes you use a valve spring compressor and you can take them out between the tappers and valve guides
@@Isavetractors I have one of those compressors that looks like two sets of chopsticks with a t handle to tighten it up with. I can't seem to get the valve spring, keepers on top and bottom, and rotator, all in the jaws of the compressor, and get all that out.. I was thinking maybe I need to bite it differently and only take the spring out. Or only the retainers, then the spring will have room?
Yea those kind take a little tweaking. Widen the little "fingers" on the tool so it will hold the spring just right then you can tighten the spring all the way down. It takes a little knack to get it right
@@Isavetractors I adjusted the adjuster all the way down. Then got a bite on the coil of the spring and not the top. Then I removed the rotator, and retainer, then slid the spring down. Got the top cap. Then compressed just the spring and took it out. Took some doing and about 20 minutes of deep thought. Now.. I'm pretty sure the intake valve is supposed to have a rotator as well according to diagrams. Can you confirm that the intake and exhaust rotators are the same size, I can't find a part number for both the intake and exhaust rotators. Only one shows in everything I can find.
Hi i have a k582 that came from a homelite generator that i have never found anything on but is there any way i could find a governor gear a bunch of teeth are missing on mine.
I have what may be a dumb question, but I was working on my k341 and made a mistake and caused the rod to break. When I opened it up, the cylinder wall looked fine, and the crank cleaned up nicely, and nothing looks out of round, but the piston skirt was broken on one side. Otherwise, the piston looked just fine. Is there any way of reusing the piston even with the piston skirt broken on one side or would it cause an out of balance condition and lead to eventual failure?
If the piston skirt is broken, you should replace the piston. We have them in stock, so give us a call on Monday and we can get on right out to you
how long does it take for the kit to arrive?
Do you have a video of re wiring a garden tractor?
We do: th-cam.com/video/QXFbtHVMtVc/w-d-xo.html
Norman the tab has broken off my governer cross shaft can I just pull the cam shaft to replace the cross shaft or do I have to pull the crank shaft? great website, lots info thanx
In order to pull the camshaft you will need to pull the crankshaft too. While you're there you should inspect the crank, bore, bearings and replace gaskets and seals if needed
thanks for the quick reply, your videos are very clear and detailed, helps me a lot, thanx
Was your governor cross shaft missing the tab that goes to the governor gear? It's a fairly common problem with those engines for it to snap off. And fall to the oil pan. I put a bead of weld on mine to reinforce it whenever I have them out.
jhitt79 no this one wasn't broken but you're right they break often. we sell used ones if you ever need one.
isavetractors In the video, it looks like it's missing.
jhitt79 you're right. it does look like it's missing but I'm actually holding that part
isavetractors ahh... now I see it, you are a "slight of hand" tractor magician.
jhitt79 :)
Thanks for the informative videos. I recently just got one of your new carbs and it works fantastic....thank you....Quick question I hope you can help me with..I have built off road bike engines, 2 and 4 stroke for years, but I am having an issue with my K341. It worked perfectly for a month with the new carb and parts. My tank my fully cleaned, as well as new fuel lines, fuel shut off, and in line filter...I do not believe my problem is carb related, but possibly governor related? I never had to mess with governors on my dirt bike builds..lol! This is why I am asking. What it is now doing is after starting the engine. Just opening the throttle slightly is making the engine over rev. Then put it back to idle position and it stays running fast. .I would then quickly push the throttle lever up and down once and it would go back to normal idle...only to do the same thing again...I looked over all linkages from where the cables connect to where the governor rod moves and nothing is getting caught...I'm a little at a loss if you have any suggestions? I did already reset the governor shaft...it moves as it should when not running and was able to check it and it is correct. The governor spring is in the normal factory position...Cable linkage end is slightly elongated in the hole making it probably a little to less sensitive but I know this isn't what is causing this...when its racing, I took my gloved hand and lightly pushed on the governor shaft to see if it was freely moving..no luck as it is like its stuck there,,,,until I blip the throttle fast and then you can operate it even while the engine is running....Is there weights or something inside on the governor set up that push out by centrifigual force to control is or is it something I am going to have to tear down and replace something....the points gap is holding so I know the came itself shouldn't be grooved or worn...thanks in advance...I need my 1650!! lol For now I am going to take everything off including the cam cover and double check everything..I did replace the bolt where the throttle and choke cables hook to the "levers" with the holes in them as it was stripped inside do to old age and loosening up and it messed it up...i replaced it with the correct size and length and had to put a lock nut on the inside as it seems that it originally had a nut welded into place? not sure hard to see in there...Everything was laid out in order and put back in order and no snags and works as it should.....I'm all ears,,I use this tractor doing my gravel driveway part time job of my own at night and weekends...i use the plow and a small land leveler for small jobs behind it as well as a heavy filled roller to pack it down smooth when finished....My other little Husqvarna lawnmower that is belt driven to the rear end won't take that job very long...help! My main Ford 3910 with FEL and stone rake is lonely without the old cub, :)
Hi There, thanks for your comment. A common breakage point is the governor cross shaft. Try: Remove the governor arm off of the cross shaft, after disconnecting all linkages leading to and from it. Now try to rotate that cross shaft you should feel it press against the governor gear when rotated counter clockwise. If you don't feel anything and it just rotates it means the cross shaft broke. The cross shaft is the piece inside that pushes against the weights on the governor gear. Without this cross shaft, your governor is not able to govern the throttle. This happens, and I've seen it personally on engines that come through my shop many times. Unfortunately to replace the cross shaft, you have to completely disassemble the engine. Give that a check and let me know what you find.
Will do thank you...I just got home from my regular night job and was heading out to the shop to work on the Cub for awhile...thanks for the quick response....I do believe it is not rotating though as I checked it to see if it came out of adjustment...i just scribe lightly a straight vertical line to help with the visual when retightening...it stopped where it was supposed to then...I will take it all off and check again and let you know in awhile...thank you.
Finally got there....Anyhow I took the governor arm off and the shaft is stopping as normal when you turn it counterclockwise...let go and it will slightly shift clockwise on its own....then it turns clockwise almost a 1/4 turn and stops again...slight in and out play...
That's normal. Next do a "Static Adjustment" it's described in the Kohler manual. You essentially make it so the cross shaft matches the governor arm on the outside. Reinstall your governor arm but leave it slightly loose. Install throttle linkage. Grab the cross shaft with pliers and turn counter clockwise until it stops on the governor gear. Now rotate the governor arm until the throttle is at WOT. Tighten everything. This synchronizes the cross shaft to the carburetor.
thank you....Well I found the issue..I can't believe it broke already..I got looking at the new carburetor and the throttle shaft pin or rivet whatever its called..the linkage the governor rod attaches to the carb..well it broke loose from the throttle linkage..same thing my oem did....dang it didn't last a month....I repaired the original with long cure jb weld and used it till the new carb came in.....I don't really want to return it so I will patch it up like the old one...it must be a weak spot in these carbs to have it come loose and its letting the throttle valve do whatever it wants....now i know what it was sticking and lost throttle control.....thanks for the help....if i decide to return i will pm you guys on your website....thank you for your time.
Hi Norman I was wondering how you got into garden tractors and do you run the store by yourself or do you have other people who help and I would also like to see a video on your garden tractor graveyard thanks
Could you tell me if the K181 turns in a counter clk wise rotation?
All of the K series engines turn clockwise when looking at the flywheel
Whats wrong when the points plunger doesn't move anymore in my K301 12hp engine ?
Might not be anything wrong but points came way out of adjustment. Loosen the points adjustment screw and push the moveable contact all the way in. Now does the points plunger move? If so, reset gap and off you go.
@@Isavetractors while removing points I discovered the points wire was loose, tighten up, running good. Thanks for your help 👍
just takes a second to knock the seals out and yeah sometimes the bearings are stubborn but
Why didn't you tell about the camshaft shim?
Where can I get a mower deck for a Ford 195
Hard to find! Best way is to set up search alerts that automatically crawl internet classifieds postings.
Hi Norman ! I am from Romania, Europe, and I have a big problem. My 12 hp Kohler engine have the crankshaft out of standard mesure , practic is oval . Kohler engine is from Haward Gem rotovator, english product. From where I can buy a new crankshaft, or a good one? Because I have all kit from reconstruction, but the crankshaft is inexistent of the market. Please respond me, and dont judge me for the gramatic.
Try www.joesoutdoorpower.com
Save the tractor s
Are u going to make a video on reassembling the engine?
Ytrevor rice yes. all being filmed and edited now
Could you tell me if the K181 turns in a counter clk wise rotation?
He is yelling into the microphone! Lol
WHAT????!!!!
Why didn't you narrate this video yourself?
I did.
1:15