Hope you found this video helpful! As always if you have any questions about your vintage cast iron small engine or vintage garden tractor you can always reach out to me directly by email, phone, or our website. Ask for Norman! I help every single person who contacts us whether they are a customer or not. Our mission is to Save the Tractors! Like, Subscribe and Tell your Friends!
Just found your video. I own a 1978 John Deere 316 with this same Kohler engine. It still runs very well but after watching your video it will be receiving more attention. I just bought this tractor last summer from a dealer. It sat there for sale for along time, until I came along. I have always liked this engine...... thank you!
Hi.I brought a tractor and the engine is a kohler and it looks just like that in the video minus a few bits..I cant find where to check the oil and where to refill it.. Any ideas where to find this.. Thanks
I just purchased a 1967 Wheel Horse 1277. Kohler K-341...I believe. Your videos are awesome. I'm not a mechanic. I work with wood. I think I can follow along.
I’m a 15 year old kid I’m not your usual kid as normal kids play video games everyday but that’s not the point I’ve got this John Deere 112 electric lift that I’ve had for years and it sat outside and was run down but he motor and e-lift and e-pto/clutch still works I think it sat for 11 years and I finally got the thing restored last summer lol thank the lord and it’s a beast of a tractor with it’s 12h Kohler my great grandfather got to run it one more time after it was done before he passed so that was a real blessing
If. U want the electric lift to keep working do no use a blower on the front . And none of the parts for the electric life are nla so if. Quit working u have to buy a good use one . I tend to stay away from the elric lift n the one with a cradle 73-74 .
For sure, I bought a 212 a few months back. Noticed not near as much air flowing through as on my 210 when standing on the right side. Pulled some sheet metal and it was full of mouse nest.
I think you should be teaching at a Vo Tech because you really have a knack at getting your instructions across in a real world easy to comprehend manor! I am getting ready to replace head gasket that blew on a k 181 gravely engine and your video walked me thru what I will be encountering. Every so often I find someone like yourself on You Tube who really stands out in their ability to teach ! You are top tier in my opinion! Thanks a bunch ,I am sure you are inspiring a lot of folks to try their own maintenance!
Hi Norman I. Work on these old engines all the time, I have a small collection of Simplicity tractors. The oldest one is a 60s MW Squire 10, and the newest one is a 7119 and overall I have 6 tractors, and they all run. I was a aircraft technician for 48 years and have repaired all types of aircraft. I have a different method of setting points we used on magnetos. What ever the setting is, say .020, use the .019 and the .021 feelers as go no go and you would come out exactly .020. Try it and see how it works for you. I watch your videos and you give me a lot of ideas and information. Thanks A J K
While I agree with 90% of this video, I wouldn’t replace the carburetor if you’re capable of rebuilding one. The original Carter/Kohler carbs are excellent. I rebuild every carb on my K series engines and I’ve only had 1 or 2 that were too far gone to be rebuilt. Keep an eye on the bushing at the top of the throttle shaft and you’ll be fine. Replace it if necessary.
@@stevenmaines9114 I save tractors carbs are American made. The chinaclones are highly variable having no quality control. If you do get one check the insides for shavings before use.
British bloke here - this video is brilliant! I've just picked up a Wheel Horse Commando 8 with a K181S - we obviously don't have many of them round here so this video is a great help is chasing down my no spark issue and general servicing. Thanks a lot. Also, having looked at your website, I may now have to buy a load of stuff!
This video was very well done. I'm impressed. I'm pretty sure I just saved three 200 series John Deere riding mowers from the junk yard. They were at an auction, they were selling as a block of three, and I was certain they would be bought for parts and the rest would be junked. So I went as high as $600 for three, non-running tractors. They all have the rugged Kohler engine and are identical except for engine size. I am in the process of getting the 212 with 46 inch deck running. Thankfully by cleaning the contacts and gently tapping the starter with a stick, it cranked over. I had to slobber oil on the choke cable to get it loosened and then it started with NO SMOKE. Hallelujah. It had sat a long time because the mower deck pulleys were rusted and seized on the belts. I had to pry them off with a screwdriver!. Some fine grade sand paper should clean those up. I estimate I have an average $200 in each tractor, the new belts came to $91, air filter and paint added another $40 so I figure I'm going to have an operational 212 for less than $400. It even has one new tire with the little nubs on it! With a smoke free engine! I really got lucky because once pried free of the rusted on belts all the blades spin free and easy. I suspect the owner sent it to the repair shop, they gave him an estimate for repairs that was pretty high so he either dumped the tractor and left or traded it for a newer John Deere. His loss, my gain. I wasn't afraid of buying the old girls because they have a frame like a tank and the local dealer told me he could get parts for ANY John Deere. Can't beat that. The other tractors are a 210 with 38 inch mower and a 214 with no mower, it has the big dirt style tires on it. I look at the thin metal on new tractors and I know those old 200's will be a good deal for me because they are RUGGED.
It's running and man does it have power. It charged through eight inch high grass with a vengeance. This is not just a riding mower, it is a garden tractor
How do i get the black tar out of the small holes in the carburetor I have already tried all types of ways to clean it out it's the original carburetor I've not tried acetone yet so that's still open for me to try out it needs something that'll dissolve sticky tar all that is is really old gas that sat for years
I just got a 1978 Wheel Horse C121 with the 12hp Kohler engine, Everything seems there, I turn the key and the engine turns over, compression just fine but no spark.
Love those old k series Kohler's have owned 6 over the years. The old saying they don't make them like that anymore definitely holds true, absolutely built like a tank huge ball main bearings huge crank and beefy rod.
I've always wondered why more engines don't have ball bearings. Seems like a much less catastrophic event if it fails, not putting the crank in such danger.
Great information!! I just found your website. I am very glad that you have components for these cast iron engines. I have five wheel horse tractors that I am responsible to keep running. Thanks again I will be ordering some things soon!! Keep up the good work!!
Very informative Norman, one of your best! I've bought a carb and points/condenser from IST...always topnotch service and product. Been an easy winter on my Gravely 5665 with a Kohler 301, less than an hour run time in the Boston area, just about time to do end of season maintenance and put her away until next winter.
Excellent video. Many thanks for helping us, "the new to the Kohler" bunch. I "inherited" 3 of the wonderful old Kohler engines in an ebay auction. I wanted an older John Deere 200 series because I saw one in action and was impressed with its ruggedness and the fact I can still get parts for them. I accidentally found an auction on ebay and was watching the bidding. For 3 non-running, non inspected garden tractors. The dealer in Ohio had offered them with no reserve. I found out it is a HUGE dealership. I suspect he didn't want his mechanics spending time on those old tractors when they could be earning big bucks on heavy agriculture equipment. They were a 210 with 36 inch mower, a 212 with 46 inch mower, and a 214 with no mower and agriculture tires. I watched the bidding creep up by 10 or 25 dollars at a time over a period of two weeks. I finally get fed up and just decided what my maximum bid would be. I settled on $600 since I knew I would be getting numerous used parts. I placed the bid and forgot about it certain I would be out bid. Lo and behold, I got email telling me I had won and needed to pick them up in two weeks. WOW! So, I rented a U-haul 6x12 and went after them. I used graph paper to figure out placing them sideways I could get them all on by placing the one with no mower in the center. (NOTE:It would have cost more to drive to Ohio, pick up the trailer and haul it back to WI, than to get the trailer in WI and haul it both ways. The drop off fee was greater than a two day rental from WI.) I found your site and started on the 212 first. With your help I managed to get it running. But the mower deck screeched like a banshee so it came off and I had to install all new bearings and belts. It ran great for a season, then the starter would spin, but not engage. Then the corrosion get the best of the wiring and I had to remove and clean ALL the wiring connections. The ignition switch was corroded on the inside! Then the carburetor started acting up, since I had been too cheap to order a new one from you. It was leaking air around the shaft. I found a used one at a local shop but the choke lever was all wrong. So I used a scrap of metal and JBwelded it on. I have to be frugal, I'm retired and living on reduced income. The 214 will start and run if I feed it gas so it needs the fuel pump replaced and the gas line cleaned out. Will start on the 210 soon. I will b doing all the items you recommended on the other two before I put them in service. I just got lucky with the 212, didn't do any of those things. LOL I really appreciate your site and the fact you see value in these older tractors, they really are worth saving. Compared to my MTD 18 horse the John Deere 212 is a beast! That old 12hp has more power than the new 18hp, go figure that!
You win best comment award. Thanks for your kind words about our business and my videos, and I am so glad you decided to save the tractors. If you ever need any help at all, tips, guidance, advice, tech support, you give me a call or send me an email, and I will be there for you.
Some good info... I found a barn find on my 10 hp Kohler. The lady I bought it from she said it's been sitting in same spot for 25 years... looks brand new after cleaning up, just can't wait hear it run.... I got it for go kart for kids... but I'm not sure on it..for 25$ can't beat it
I just picked up a cub cadet 1650 with a kohler. When i went to look at it. The guy was explaining some of the work he's done recently. And he said he did a head gasket on it and got parts from you. I chuckled and siad i love Norman from i save tractors.
I have a Wheelhorse ,1984, with a 12 hp K series engine I bought 3 years ago. I simply cleaned the tractor of squirrel nests, changed the oil, a new battery and it's been my work pony ever since. I don't agree with the advise to change out the carb. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I have cleaned up many carbs with lacquer thinner, reassembled and they still work perfectly. The rest of your advise is good, but not necessarily always required. Thumbs up for a well presented video
I have other videos that go into further detail on some of these things. But to answer your question, you want to finish with a finer finish 150 grit minimum to maintain a good seal, but this can be slightly subjective.
I have owned 3 classic cubs with K-Series engines. As soon as I got them I administratively replaced the carbs with IST carbs, no issues. The one time you DONT want carb issues is when your looking at 3' of snow.
I had an old k181 that i turned the head down in my lathe and years later i welded the spark plug hole to mill and drill where i wanted it. It ran great and i just sold it after owning it for 25 years. It was .030 over as well when i was done with it. A work horse year after year
Norman you have a wonderful channel & web site. I will be using you in the future. Folks you take care of these old Kohler engines & they will take good care of you.
I like to take my Kohler heads to the local machinist and have them milled flat. It usually only takes .005 or .010 to get them cleaned up and flat. An old small engine mechanic also taught me to paint the head gasket with aluminum paint and install the head gasket and head before it dries. Also, maybe I missed it but I do not think you talked about retorquing the head bolts after running the engine.
Great video! I replaced the carburetor but this unit had just the base plate for the air cleaner ( no other parts) ...Is there a spacer between the carburetor and the base plate air cleaner? The new carburetor choke hits against the base plate of the air cleaner Preventing it from closing. Help
Now in regards to oil. My diesel jeep has 250,000 miles and still runs like new thanks to synthetic oil. What would you think of me using that Rotella 20/50 full synthetic in the old Kohler. I have people telling me it has to be straight 30W. But everything I have read indicates synthetic is better in ALL applications and 20/50 should provide more protection than straight 30W
Man, I was intimidated by replacing the points, as I've never done it, but thanks to your instructions, I was able to replace and adjust it, and it runs so much more smoothly now. I put a Bosch 00012 coil on there, too. Who knew that a VW part would work so well on a tractor engine?
Thanks for this video, I just ordered a carbrator from you 2 days ago and was wondering if they was present. Well you answered my question in this video. And I have learned so much from your videos. Thanks for the info and great products I have purchased from you. And I have told many folks about your videos and website to purchase things for a rebuilt on their vantage tractors.
I was just given a 1970(?) Wheel Horse Electro (hydro drive) with a 12hp Kohler that my 100 year old (WWII) neighbor owned. He passed away earlier this year. It's in pretty rough shape, but I hope to get it going. In my experience with small engines.. It's likely the carb! Thanks for the video.
Thank you for your videos and helpful information. If needed, it seems the head should be removed and the cylinder and valves inspected before the other repairs.
I got a neglected k341 that smokes pretty bad. I got a head gasket and breather parts from you. Hopefully a clean up and valve adjustment will help me out. I already did the points and a fresh oil change.
Steven Wimmer I have the same engine that came off a gravely unfortunately he scraped the chassis but kept the motor . Does yours have the gear reduction side case? And does yours leak ? I have only ran it on the bench and after sitting for a month or so it looks like half the oil leaked out , I can’t tell if it’s a inner seal or case bolts or gasket, or maybe all the above ? Mainly I mounted it to my welding table to test it and adjust the carb and have needed the table but I know if I don’t fix the leak I will set it in a corner and it will just sit like a few other projects .
I am loving this video. I just restored a john deere 210 and omg the website and parts is spot on. I can't wait to use it. You bed I can't buy a snow blade of of it
Man I have a new Holland s-14 and a ariens s-18h both have Kohler engines and these things are unstoppable I have plows on both and have rototiller and 1 bottom plow also no problems since I got them and rebuilt them both were sitting in woods with moss growing on them lol love these things
Great videos again. Thank you. I have a k-161 that needs this treatment. It’s been soaking in pb blast for about 3 weeks so it’s probably ready to dig in. 👍
I need your help Norm! KT19 kohler in rare C195 wheelhorse. Ran fine yesterday. Today? Half hearted attempt to start. I checked it over...found blown fuse from ignition switch to ammeter. Attempted to replace fuse....crackling sound in fuse holder. Smoke coming from flywheel side of engine (near top of engine). Each time I attempt to replace the fuse? Same thing. Key out of ignition. Now won't crank or even a solenoid "click". Stator? Volt regulator? Something else?
you should add a segment on doing a hillbilly valve lap job with sandpaper...with commentary on what to look for in deciding when to buy new valves versus rehabing old ones. really enjoy your videos...keep em comin...
Very simplified easy to follow instructions on exactly the same engine I am working on excellent, some people like to show their intelligence more than they need to and confused the shade tree mechanic that could do that hands-down explained the way you did
I really like this guy. He is really helpful when it comes to advice about the part you may need. I have a Jim Dandy Economy and a 72 Sears Suburban 15 to restore and will need the help and parts
Why do you replace the carburetor? I’ve only had to buy a new one maybe once before but for the most part if you clean them up and adjust them they still make the engine run like new.
A carburetor from 1960 for example is 60 years old. The pivot point where the throttle turns in a cast aluminum body will wear and cause rogue air to enter your carburetor making your air fuel mixture more and more lean as even more time goes by. Parts don't last forever, and at this time period, it's appropriate time to consider replacement.
engines and outdoors - I replace the carburetor because there is air that leaks In at the throttle shaft making it run lean, or causing it to smoke like it needs new rings. I’ve found that with a new Carb it runs much better and usually clears up any smoke. That being said if the machine is a low hour unit and everything feels tight then I will rebuild the original carburetor. But I’m finding that for an extra $40 I can slap a brand new carb on and save 1-2 hours. Time / Money
Good ideas, love my old kohlers and the GTs they come on especially john deere 200 series machines. Not a great fan of the briggs as a general rule. Nothing really wrong with them, I just feel like kohler did the carb and ignition better
Great video, didn’t know you sold parts also. I have a 1974 Cub Cadet 149 that I am restoring. I will definitely check ur web page out - thanks Norman!👍🏻
Just got a new to me 1991 Crafstman LT4000 with the Kohler OHV 14hp engine, just needed some buttoning up and love and it runs amazing! Going to be perfect for mowing the 2 acres we just purchased and plowing our driveway in the winter after I find a plow! Great videos!! Subscribed!!
Nice vid. I like the presentation. The info was helpful as well. I just bought a 782 cub cadet yesterday. The governor runs away all by it's self without touching the throttle. I have to manually adjust the governor to keep it running without over reeving the engine. Do you have a vid that goes into more detail on fix repair and/or replace the governor on a 17hp Kohler? I've tried searching a vid on just the governor, but failed to find the right vid so far. Any help from anyone would greatly appreciated.
Have you ever had an issue with the mechanical fuel pump? Mine quit working. Bought and installed a new one and that didn't work either. So I put in an electric pump. Kind of like the electric pump especially at the beginning of the cutting season, you know priming the system. Much easier on the starter. I really have to check the points on mine. The tractor is an 85 and never really done anything to it except changing the oil and clean it and that sort of thing. Believe it or not I have an old homelite chainsaw that I got new when I was about 14. I'm now 63. Have never done anything to it other then changing the spark plug. I used it a few years ago and after 3 pulls it started right up!! I do make sure to drain the gas out of it, same with the tractor. I just drain the gas out of the carburator.
Constructive criticism here... A Gravely fan so I know Kohler engines. I completely agree with these five issues that should be done with every engine. The videos only weakness is that they should demonstrate how to adjust valves using two wrenches and showing all the steps. While the mystery of the crankcase ventilation system is given 5 minutes no time is given to how to adjust the valve and I assume that this video is an attempt to reach out to newbies who are trying to do their own small engine repairs. That said...I love I save tractors!!
With engine in the tractor of my 212, there is a support piece of metal in the way to access the screws in the points cover. I learned by loosening the bolts in that plate. I could jam a rod of metal in there and lift it enough for my screwdriver to slip under the plate and access the screw in the cover. By using a screwdriver with a strong magnet I was able to retrieve the screw. But putting it back in was hard with the flat tip driver. So I took the screw to a hardware store and got a Phillips screw with the same threads. That at least stayed on the tip of the driver for reassembly.
Great video! Would it be prudent to check the head before you adjust valves, in case valves need lapping? How about an engine with the Kohler breakerless ignition? Is it better to convert it to points? Thanks.
Yea this was not necessarily in order. Just how it came out in the editing room to keep it clear for the video. If you have breakerless ignition, I do recommend switching back to using points.
I love the "magnetron" electronic modules. On most engines the points are under the flywheel. No need to remove it. Just clip the wire and splice it in. If the seal happens to leak a little, the oil will not affect your spark.
Nice tutorial. I have several Briggs that I have to get to first then about 5 Kohlers, 1 may be too far gone. Will be at your website for parts in a month or so. See you then stay well, Joe Z
Hey I just bought the points and condenser set from you and it ran for about 30 minutes and I killed it and wouldn’t start and it turns out it was a bad connection to the points I fixed that and now it runs really bad if it starts and just backfires do you think my condenser went bad again?
Good video, but I will start by removing the head first. There is no point in investing in points, carburetor, etc, if the engine is shoot or need rebuilding. Also, if you need to lap the valves, you will need to remove the carburetor anyways for access... As others have point-out, and new carburetor is only required if the old one is worn-out or have been temper with (which often happens). Thank for the video.
Hey Norman great video thanks for the tips. I have a kohler K241 I was told it was a K301 not sure yet but It was an extra motor that came with a john Deere 112 I had bought. The oil dipstick tube had busted off it was one that mounted to the side. Was going to put this motor in my 68 112 but have not seen the right tube for it. I will have to see if I have the peice that busted off and I can inclued the modle number. The motor will be on my youtube chanel when I get the tractor going again if interested. Please let me know if you have one in stock and thanks for the video
I have done these except replacing the condenser. Is this part particularly important for cold weather starting? Mine are very hard to start under 40F. If I use a booster I can get it to crank faster and that usually works. Or warm it up under a tarp with an electric heater.
Good day. I need some advise. My faithful Gravely 522 conked out on me a few days ago. It has a kohlar engine. Whilst working some brush, heard a snap sound and it started smoking. white. Near the starter. Tried starting but no luck. Engine just tumbles...no spark though. I went thru basic trouble shooting means but still no luck...I fear the worst. Can the coil 'blow out'? Any suggestions would be most welcome. Thanks
Original points compared to today's, no comparison. Clean your original tungsten, provided that they are not FUBU. Regap after using very fine Emery paper, carb clean. You'll go through 4 or 5 condensers before a good stock set of points. Checking the resistance of the coil is also helpful. Good tutorial.
i know you know how to do this stuff but i myself would have to at least fine-tune the carb all motors are a little different and there is no way you're adjusted carb will be ready to rock on all motors what's your take on this i will get a hold of you if i need parts thanks
Can you please do a video on replacing the governor gear of a K series. I know it's a pain because you have to gut everything internally to get it out.... but it would be appreciated. I'll buy a replacement gear from you as well if you can get one.
While you had the carb off I wish you had spent a minute on the fuel pump. They do get dirty and need attention. Doing a compression check would tell me if it needs help. Inspecting the head gasket too would let me know if something was amiss. I'm all for replacing the carb if it was bad. Good informative video , keep them coming.
Take it apart. If the diaphragm us in good condition make sure the little valves are seated good sometimes they come out. Put it together. Good to go as long as the stream is steady your good
I have acquired several of these series of engines over the years. Everyone did not run because the tops of the pistons had separated from the bottoms. What are the odds?
well Horse tractor with a kolher engine but I do not know the power I am looking for a starter if you know a website thanking you good day and great video thank
Which Wheel Horse Model is it? Does it say anything on the hood? You can also email me a picture of it and I can figure out what you have. info@isavetractors.com
Hello Norman !!!! Thank you for your channel I have a 1966 Wheel Horse 12 hp engine With a sick carburetor. I have looked on your website and want order a gasket kit I’m a little confused…. Which one do I get??? Thanks in advance!!! Signed , out in the sticks Terry W
Hope you found this video helpful! As always if you have any questions about your vintage cast iron small engine or vintage garden tractor you can always reach out to me directly by email, phone, or our website. Ask for Norman! I help every single person who contacts us whether they are a customer or not. Our mission is to Save the Tractors! Like, Subscribe and Tell your Friends!
Just found your video. I own a 1978 John Deere 316 with this same Kohler engine. It still runs very well but after watching your video it will be receiving more attention. I just bought this tractor last summer from a dealer. It sat there for sale for along time, until I came along. I have always liked this engine...... thank you!
Hi.I brought a tractor and the engine is a kohler and it looks just like that in the video minus a few bits..I cant find where to check the oil and where to refill it.. Any ideas where to find this.. Thanks
A video of the ignition system and wiring would be greatly appreciated. I’ve replaced all the components and it still has no spark?
I just purchased a 1967 Wheel Horse 1277. Kohler K-341...I believe. Your videos are awesome. I'm not a mechanic. I work with wood. I think I can follow along.
@@johnpepper717 What model is it? Most have a dip stick must be real old..awesome!
I’m a 15 year old kid I’m not your usual kid as normal kids play video games everyday but that’s not the point I’ve got this John Deere 112 electric lift that I’ve had for years and it sat outside and was run down but he motor and e-lift and e-pto/clutch still works I think it sat for 11 years and I finally got the thing restored last summer lol thank the lord and it’s a beast of a tractor with it’s 12h Kohler my great grandfather got to run it one more time after it was done before he passed so that was a real blessing
If. U want the electric lift to keep working do no use a blower on the front . And none of the parts for the electric life are nla so if. Quit working u have to buy a good use one . I tend to stay away from the elric lift n the one with a cradle 73-74 .
Grandpaps are the best !
Steven Maines thanks man for the advice I’ll keep that in mind 👍
heyinway you know it
if only every equipment owner cares about their machines like this guy wonderful job
Add a 6th step. Remove and clean out any build up of grass, dirt, and other foreign debris (mouse nest) from behind the blower housing.
@Robert Kuhnke wow that is a great ole story old Kohler tales are great!!! lol
For sure, I bought a 212 a few months back. Noticed not near as much air flowing through as on my 210 when standing on the right side. Pulled some sheet metal and it was full of mouse nest.
As well as cleaning out the fuel tank
I think you should be teaching at a Vo Tech because you really have a knack at getting your instructions across in a real world easy to comprehend manor! I am getting ready to replace head gasket that blew on a k 181 gravely engine and your video walked me thru what I will be encountering. Every so often I find someone like yourself on You Tube who really stands out in their ability to teach ! You are top tier in my opinion! Thanks a bunch ,I am sure you are inspiring a lot of folks to try their own maintenance!
Perhaps the most thorough and informative instructions I've seen on YT. Thank you Norman.
I'm also a recent customer.
Hi Norman
I. Work on these old engines all the time, I have a small collection of Simplicity tractors. The oldest one is a 60s MW Squire 10, and the newest one is a 7119 and overall I have 6 tractors, and they all run.
I was a aircraft technician for 48 years and have repaired all types of aircraft. I have a different method of setting points we used on magnetos.
What ever the setting is, say .020, use the .019 and the .021 feelers as go no go and you would come out exactly .020. Try it and see how it works for you.
I watch your videos and you give me a lot of ideas and information.
Thanks
A J K
While I agree with 90% of this video, I wouldn’t replace the carburetor if you’re capable of rebuilding one. The original Carter/Kohler carbs are excellent. I rebuild every carb on my K series engines and I’ve only had 1 or 2 that were too far gone to be rebuilt. Keep an eye on the bushing at the top of the throttle shaft and you’ll be fine. Replace it if necessary.
I agree with you .. the bishop g is replaceble. I rather have it org n not a China carb
I got bushings for the throttle from small parts. Com
@@kevinsheriffjr7700 yeah . Kirk sell them too
@@stevenmaines9114 I save tractors carbs are American made. The chinaclones are highly variable having no quality control. If you do get one check the insides for shavings before use.
@@gregolson5532 I'll never. Use a China carb on k . And I daubt there made in America..
Thanks for shipping the Carb so quickly, Norman! I can't wait to get it installed 😊
British bloke here - this video is brilliant!
I've just picked up a Wheel Horse Commando 8 with a K181S - we obviously don't have many of them round here so this video is a great help is chasing down my no spark issue and general servicing. Thanks a lot.
Also, having looked at your website, I may now have to buy a load of stuff!
Having just picked up a neat old John Deere 216, this might just be my new favorite channel & website. Thanks for the great video!
This video was very well done. I'm impressed.
I'm pretty sure I just saved three 200 series John Deere riding mowers from the junk yard. They were at an auction, they were selling as a block of three, and I was certain they would be bought for parts and the rest would be junked. So I went as high as $600 for three, non-running tractors. They all have the rugged Kohler engine and are identical except for engine size. I am in the process of getting the 212 with 46 inch deck running. Thankfully by cleaning the contacts and gently tapping the starter with a stick, it cranked over. I had to slobber oil on the choke cable to get it loosened and then it started with NO SMOKE. Hallelujah. It had sat a long time because the mower deck pulleys were rusted and seized on the belts. I had to pry them off with a screwdriver!. Some fine grade sand paper should clean those up.
I estimate I have an average $200 in each tractor, the new belts came to $91, air filter and paint added another $40 so I figure I'm going to have an operational 212 for less than $400. It even has one new tire with the little nubs on it! With a smoke free engine! I really got lucky because once pried free of the rusted on belts all the blades spin free and easy. I suspect the owner sent it to the repair shop, they gave him an estimate for repairs that was pretty high so he either dumped the tractor and left or traded it for a newer John Deere. His loss, my gain. I wasn't afraid of buying the old girls because they have a frame like a tank and the local dealer told me he could get parts for ANY John Deere. Can't beat that.
The other tractors are a 210 with 38 inch mower and a 214 with no mower, it has the big dirt style tires on it. I look at the thin metal on new tractors and I know those old 200's will be a good deal for me because they are RUGGED.
It's running and man does it have power. It charged through eight inch high grass with a vengeance. This is not just a riding mower, it is a garden tractor
you need to add one, change the oil, correct 10w 30 check manual.. replace fuel filter...flush fuel tank. great video
Awesome video Norman, thanks. David from Tennessee here.
1:21 carburetor removal
2:47 valve clearance
8:25 carburetor install
11:45 governor
13:23 points
17:13 condenser
18:19 combustion chamber
Thank you! Amazing
@@Isavetractors Rohan king says your carburetors suck, just rebuild stock carb
How do i get the black tar out of the small holes in the carburetor I have already tried all types of ways to clean it out it's the original carburetor I've not tried acetone yet so that's still open for me to try out it needs something that'll dissolve sticky tar all that is is really old gas that sat for years
@@Isavetractorsif the valve clearance isn't right could they cause a tapping sound that speeds up with the RPMs?
I just got a 1978 Wheel Horse C121 with the 12hp Kohler engine, Everything seems there, I turn the key and the engine turns over, compression just fine but no spark.
Love those old k series Kohler's have owned 6 over the years. The old saying they don't make them like that anymore definitely holds true, absolutely built like a tank huge ball main bearings huge crank and beefy rod.
love the K series..on a quest to find a couple more.
What other engine can pull the mower and our weight can the twin briggs engine or is that to small
I've always wondered why more engines don't have ball bearings. Seems like a much less catastrophic event if it fails, not putting the crank in such danger.
Great information!!
I just found your website. I am very glad that you have components for these cast iron engines.
I have five wheel horse tractors that I am responsible to keep running. Thanks again I will be ordering some things soon!! Keep up the good work!!
What to do when the points don't open? Even when loosened and pushed toward the block like the video indicated. I also already replaced the plunger.
Very informative Norman, one of your best! I've bought a carb and points/condenser from IST...always topnotch service and product. Been an easy winter on my Gravely 5665 with a Kohler 301, less than an hour run time in the Boston area, just about time to do end of season maintenance and put her away until next winter.
Excellent video. Many thanks for helping us, "the new to the Kohler" bunch.
I "inherited" 3 of the wonderful old Kohler engines in an ebay auction.
I wanted an older John Deere 200 series because I saw one in action and was impressed with its ruggedness and the fact I can still get parts for them.
I accidentally found an auction on ebay and was watching the bidding. For 3 non-running, non inspected garden tractors.
The dealer in Ohio had offered them with no reserve. I found out it is a HUGE dealership. I suspect he didn't want his mechanics spending time on those old tractors when they could be earning big bucks on heavy agriculture equipment. They were a 210 with 36 inch mower, a 212 with 46 inch mower, and a 214 with no mower and agriculture tires. I watched the bidding creep up by 10 or 25 dollars at a time over a period of two weeks. I finally get fed up and just decided what my maximum bid would be. I settled on $600 since I knew I would be getting numerous used parts. I placed the bid and forgot about it certain I would be out bid. Lo and behold, I got email telling me I had won and needed to pick them up in two weeks. WOW!
So, I rented a U-haul 6x12 and went after them. I used graph paper to figure out placing them sideways I could get them all on by placing the one with no mower in the center.
(NOTE:It would have cost more to drive to Ohio, pick up the trailer and haul it back to WI, than to get the trailer in WI and haul it both ways. The drop off fee was greater than a two day rental from WI.)
I found your site and started on the 212 first. With your help I managed to get it running. But the mower deck screeched like a banshee so it came off and I had to install all new bearings and belts.
It ran great for a season, then the starter would spin, but not engage. Then the corrosion get the best of the wiring and I had to remove and clean ALL the wiring connections. The ignition switch was corroded on the inside! Then the carburetor started acting up, since I had been too cheap to order a new one from you. It was leaking air around the shaft. I found a used one at a local shop but the choke lever was all wrong. So I used a scrap of metal and JBwelded it on. I have to be frugal, I'm retired and living on reduced income.
The 214 will start and run if I feed it gas so it needs the fuel pump replaced and the gas line cleaned out.
Will start on the 210 soon. I will b doing all the items you recommended on the other two before I put them in service. I just got lucky with the 212, didn't do any of those things. LOL
I really appreciate your site and the fact you see value in these older tractors, they really are worth saving. Compared to my MTD 18 horse the John Deere 212 is a beast! That old 12hp has more power than the new 18hp, go figure that!
You win best comment award. Thanks for your kind words about our business and my videos, and I am so glad you decided to save the tractors. If you ever need any help at all, tips, guidance, advice, tech support, you give me a call or send me an email, and I will be there for you.
Some good info... I found a barn find on my 10 hp Kohler. The lady I bought it from she said it's been sitting in same spot for 25 years... looks brand new after cleaning up, just can't wait hear it run.... I got it for go kart for kids... but I'm not sure on it..for 25$ can't beat it
I just picked up a cub cadet 1650 with a kohler. When i went to look at it. The guy was explaining some of the work he's done recently. And he said he did a head gasket on it and got parts from you. I chuckled and siad i love Norman from i save tractors.
I have a Wheelhorse ,1984, with a 12 hp K series engine I bought 3 years ago. I simply cleaned the tractor of squirrel nests, changed the oil, a new battery and it's been my work pony ever since. I don't agree with the advise to change out the carb. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I have cleaned up many carbs with lacquer thinner, reassembled and they still work perfectly. The rest of your advise is good, but not necessarily always required. Thumbs up for a well presented video
You all are awesome. Thank you for what you do.
Do you have a video on the K17 top 5?
Well done on the video. You're a natural. Thanks for posting.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome video, this will be super helpful. Thanks for taking the time to walk us through the maintenance of a forgotten engine.
What grit sandpaper to resurface the head? That's probably an important detail. ;)
I have other videos that go into further detail on some of these things. But to answer your question, you want to finish with a finer finish 150 grit minimum to maintain a good seal, but this can be slightly subjective.
I have owned 3 classic cubs with K-Series engines. As soon as I got them I administratively replaced the carbs with IST carbs, no issues. The one time you DONT want carb issues is when your looking at 3' of snow.
I had an old k181 that i turned the head down in my lathe and years later i welded the spark plug hole to mill and drill where i wanted it. It ran great and i just sold it after owning it for 25 years. It was .030 over as well when i was done with it. A work horse year after year
I'm learning about those new engines right now and whatever stuff I do to mine
Norman you have a wonderful channel & web site. I will be using you in the future. Folks you take care of these old Kohler engines & they will take good care of you.
Thank you Norman for your great video. I am a Mechanic for our farm and have many engines that I maintain. Currently I am working on a K301.
I like to take my Kohler heads to the local machinist and have them milled flat. It usually only takes .005 or .010 to get them cleaned up and flat. An old small engine mechanic also taught me to paint the head gasket with aluminum paint and install the head gasket and head before it dries. Also, maybe I missed it but I do not think you talked about retorquing the head bolts after running the engine.
Great video! I replaced the carburetor but this unit had just the base plate for the air cleaner ( no other parts) ...Is there a spacer between the carburetor and the base plate air cleaner? The new carburetor choke hits against the base plate of the air cleaner Preventing it from closing.
Help
Just picked up a Gravely 8179 that was repowered with a Kohler K321a. Great info here. I’ll be ordering some parts before spring
I've had many of these k-series. Keep oil breather clean! This breather can wear the rings out when clogged. Backpressure/blowby.
Now in regards to oil.
My diesel jeep has 250,000 miles and still runs like new thanks to synthetic oil.
What would you think of me using that Rotella 20/50 full synthetic in the old Kohler. I have people telling me it has to be straight 30W. But everything I have read indicates synthetic is better in ALL applications and 20/50 should provide more protection than straight 30W
nice work,even mentioned the back and forth strategy the K carb bolts .solid work brother and good advice with no bullshit love it thanks
I just bought a carb from you so this is a huge help! Thanks!!!
Man, I was intimidated by replacing the points, as I've never done it, but thanks to your instructions, I was able to replace and adjust it, and it runs so much more smoothly now. I put a Bosch 00012 coil on there, too. Who knew that a VW part would work so well on a tractor engine?
This video was very helpful thank you for all you hard work and amazing content !
Thanks for this video, I just ordered a carbrator from you 2 days ago and was wondering if they was present. Well you answered my question in this video. And I have learned so much from your videos. Thanks for the info and great products I have purchased from you. And I have told many folks about your videos and website to purchase things for a rebuilt on their vantage tractors.
Always used HARDENED washers with the head bolts. The underside of the head of the bolt will dig into soft washers.
I was just given a 1970(?) Wheel Horse Electro (hydro drive) with a 12hp Kohler that my 100 year old (WWII) neighbor owned. He passed away earlier this year. It's in pretty rough shape, but I hope to get it going. In my experience with small engines.. It's likely the carb! Thanks for the video.
I think I need a new carb for my ford. I tried to rebuild it but she ran good in the fall but floods out in cold weather
Thank you for your videos and helpful information. If needed, it seems the head should be removed and the cylinder and valves inspected before the other repairs.
Thanks so much for this video - What great info for reviving my 1975 JD.
I got a neglected k341 that smokes pretty bad. I got a head gasket and breather parts from you. Hopefully a clean up and valve adjustment will help me out. I already did the points and a fresh oil change.
Norman Great video and thankyou for your information and help, soon there will be a great K341 and Work Horse running well in France. Gooday
Thank you for this information. Without breaking open the engine can you think why the points plunger isn’t moving when the crankshaft id rotated?
i bought alot great parts off you points condensors coils gaskets connecting rods im very happy with all parts =)
Thanks for the tutorial. I have a K181 8hp on my Gravely that needs some love.
Steven Wimmer I have the same engine that came off a gravely unfortunately he scraped the chassis but kept the motor . Does yours have the gear reduction side case? And does yours leak ? I have only ran it on the bench and after sitting for a month or so it looks like half the oil leaked out , I can’t tell if it’s a inner seal or case bolts or gasket, or maybe all the above ?
Mainly I mounted it to my welding table to test it and adjust the carb and have needed the table but I know if I don’t fix the leak I will set it in a corner and it will just sit like a few other projects .
I am loving this video. I just restored a john deere 210 and omg the website and parts is spot on. I can't wait to use it. You bed I can't buy a snow blade of of it
Man I have a new Holland s-14 and a ariens s-18h both have Kohler engines and these things are unstoppable I have plows on both and have rototiller and 1 bottom plow also no problems since I got them and rebuilt them both were sitting in woods with moss growing on them lol love these things
I thought your were going to say to change the oil as step 1
that's step zero lol
We’re supposed to change the oil?
No, never change the oil, it actually gets better over time, and after 40-50 years amazing!!
Jose M. Exactly. I know this because wine is the same way
Love those K and M series Kohlers! Really like the video's!
Great videos again. Thank you.
I have a k-161 that needs this treatment. It’s been soaking in pb blast for about 3 weeks so it’s probably ready to dig in. 👍
My wheel horse is straight piped. It sounds good.
just picked up an old K91 on a wacker plate compactor
I need your help Norm!
KT19 kohler in rare C195 wheelhorse.
Ran fine yesterday. Today?
Half hearted attempt to start.
I checked it over...found blown fuse from ignition switch to ammeter. Attempted to replace fuse....crackling sound in fuse holder. Smoke coming from flywheel side of engine (near top of engine).
Each time I attempt to replace the fuse? Same thing. Key out of ignition. Now won't crank or even a solenoid "click".
Stator? Volt regulator? Something else?
you should add a segment on doing a hillbilly valve lap job with sandpaper...with commentary on what to look for in deciding when to buy new valves versus rehabing old ones. really enjoy your videos...keep em comin...
Used tri clover on mine
Very simplified easy to follow instructions on exactly the same engine I am working on excellent, some people like to show their intelligence more than they need to and confused the shade tree mechanic that could do that hands-down explained the way you did
I really like this guy. He is really helpful when it comes to advice about the part you may need. I have a Jim Dandy Economy and a 72 Sears Suburban 15 to restore and will need the help and parts
Why do you replace the carburetor? I’ve only had to buy a new one maybe once before but for the most part if you clean them up and adjust them they still make the engine run like new.
He doesn't make any money when you clean and use your perfectly good carb that wasn't made in China
A carburetor from 1960 for example is 60 years old. The pivot point where the throttle turns in a cast aluminum body will wear and cause rogue air to enter your carburetor making your air fuel mixture more and more lean as even more time goes by. Parts don't last forever, and at this time period, it's appropriate time to consider replacement.
@maggs131 Our carbs are not made in China. While we are a business, we exist only to help customers and tractors. So don't be an ass.
@@Isavetractors only to help customers? So your profits go to charity. Well that's cool then
engines and outdoors - I replace the carburetor because there is air that leaks In at the throttle shaft making it run lean, or causing it to smoke like it needs new rings. I’ve found that with a new Carb it runs much better and usually clears up any smoke. That being said if the machine is a low hour unit and everything feels tight then I will rebuild the original carburetor. But I’m finding that for an extra $40 I can slap a brand new carb on and save 1-2 hours. Time / Money
Picked up a Jacobsen Chief with a Kohler K241. Runs sweet.
Good ideas, love my old kohlers and the GTs they come on especially john deere 200 series machines. Not a great fan of the briggs as a general rule. Nothing really wrong with them, I just feel like kohler did the carb and ignition better
Great video, didn’t know you sold parts also. I have a 1974 Cub Cadet 149 that I am restoring. I will definitely check ur web page out - thanks Norman!👍🏻
Do you have a video on the charging system and how to repair? My battery is not charging.
Just got a new to me 1991 Crafstman LT4000 with the Kohler OHV 14hp engine, just needed some buttoning up and love and it runs amazing! Going to be perfect for mowing the 2 acres we just purchased and plowing our driveway in the winter after I find a plow! Great videos!! Subscribed!!
Nice vid. I like the presentation. The info was helpful as well. I just bought a 782 cub cadet yesterday. The governor runs away all by it's self without touching the throttle. I have to manually adjust the governor to keep it running without over reeving the engine. Do you have a vid that goes into more detail on fix repair and/or replace the governor on a 17hp Kohler? I've tried searching a vid on just the governor, but failed to find the right vid so far. Any help from anyone would greatly appreciated.
Have you ever had an issue with the mechanical fuel pump? Mine quit working. Bought and installed a new one and that didn't work either. So I put in an electric pump. Kind of like the electric pump especially at the beginning of the cutting season, you know priming the system. Much easier on the starter. I really have to check the points on mine. The tractor is an 85 and never really done anything to it except changing the oil and clean it and that sort of thing. Believe it or not I have an old homelite chainsaw that I got new when I was about 14. I'm now 63. Have never done anything to it other then changing the spark plug. I used it a few years ago and after 3 pulls it started right up!! I do make sure to drain the gas out of it, same with the tractor. I just drain the gas out of the carburator.
Constructive criticism here... A Gravely fan so I know Kohler engines. I completely agree with these five issues that should be done with every engine. The videos only weakness is that they should demonstrate how to adjust valves using two wrenches and showing all the steps. While the mystery of the crankcase ventilation system is given 5 minutes no time is given to how to adjust the valve and I assume that this video is an attempt to reach out to newbies who are trying to do their own small engine repairs. That said...I love I save tractors!!
Hello I have a jonh deere 212 what causing oil to be in breather ? Thanks
I remember everyone going the other way on the JD 318 and now your bringing back points lol.
I prefer points over the other systems. Old school reliability in my opinion.
With engine in the tractor of my 212, there is a support piece of metal in the way to access the screws in the points cover.
I learned by loosening the bolts in that plate. I could jam a rod of metal in there and lift it enough for my screwdriver to slip under the plate and access the screw in the cover. By using a screwdriver with a strong magnet I was able to retrieve the screw. But putting it back in was hard with the flat tip driver. So I took the screw to a hardware store and got a Phillips screw with the same threads. That at least stayed on the tip of the driver for reassembly.
Yea several machines where the engine sits deeper in the frame can have access issues for the points. Good thinking on your part!
As always, a clear and informative video. This makes me more confident about working on my Kohler engine. I guess I've got some work to do!
Hi Norm, That was a really good video. Look forward to the next one.
😏 yes thank ya Norman!
Great video! Would it be prudent to check the head before you adjust valves, in case valves need lapping? How about an engine with the Kohler breakerless ignition? Is it better to convert it to points? Thanks.
Yea this was not necessarily in order. Just how it came out in the editing room to keep it clear for the video. If you have breakerless ignition, I do recommend switching back to using points.
I love the "magnetron" electronic modules. On most engines the points are under the flywheel. No need to remove it. Just clip the wire and splice it in. If the seal happens to leak a little, the oil will not affect your spark.
Nice tutorial. I have several Briggs that I have to get to first then about 5 Kohlers, 1 may be too far gone. Will be at your website for parts in a month or so. See you then stay well, Joe Z
Great job I like to do all the same things when i get one in to tune up.
Hey I just bought the points and condenser set from you and it ran for about 30 minutes and I killed it and wouldn’t start and it turns out it was a bad connection to the points I fixed that and now it runs really bad if it starts and just backfires do you think my condenser went bad again?
Good video, but I will start by removing the head first. There is no point in investing in points, carburetor, etc, if the engine is shoot or need rebuilding. Also, if you need to lap the valves, you will need to remove the carburetor anyways for access... As others have point-out, and new carburetor is only required if the old one is worn-out or have been temper with (which often happens). Thank for the video.
Hey Norman great video thanks for the tips. I have a kohler K241 I was told it was a K301 not sure yet but It was an extra motor that came with a john Deere 112 I had bought. The oil dipstick tube had busted off it was one that mounted to the side. Was going to put this motor in my 68 112 but have not seen the right tube for it. I will have to see if I have the peice that busted off and I can inclued the modle number. The motor will be on my youtube chanel when I get the tractor going again if interested. Please let me know if you have one in stock and thanks for the video
Also do you have any filter asembly housings for a 112 kohler
I got my kit from you all and it's worked out great
Why use a haywire adjustable wrench? Surely you have the correct wrench?
What about replacing the innards of the fuel pump too?
If the 40 year old carb needs to be rebuilt, would the same apply to the fuel pump?
I have done these except replacing the condenser. Is this part particularly important for cold weather starting? Mine are very hard to start under 40F. If I use a booster I can get it to crank faster and that usually works. Or warm it up under a tarp with an electric heater.
Good day.
I need some advise.
My faithful Gravely 522 conked out on me a few days ago. It has a kohlar engine.
Whilst working some brush, heard a snap sound and it started smoking. white. Near the starter. Tried starting but no luck.
Engine just tumbles...no spark though. I went thru basic trouble shooting means but still no luck...I fear the worst.
Can the coil 'blow out'?
Any suggestions would be most welcome.
Thanks
Original points compared to today's, no comparison. Clean your original tungsten, provided that they are not FUBU. Regap after using very fine Emery paper, carb clean. You'll go through 4 or 5 condensers before a good stock set of points.
Checking the resistance of the coil is also helpful.
Good tutorial.
i know you know how to do this stuff but i myself would have to at least fine-tune the carb all motors are a little different and there is no way you're adjusted carb will be ready to rock on all motors what's your take on this i will get a hold of you if i need parts thanks
I'll definitely be hitting up your website. Hopefully this weekend I'll be picking up a k231 for my 65 case 130
I need a valve cover and the valve cover guts for a k241.
If u did buy a carb and it needed adjusted for a 212 jd how many turns is the high and low
Can you please do a video on replacing the governor gear of a K series. I know it's a pain because you have to gut everything internally to get it out.... but it would be appreciated. I'll buy a replacement gear from you as well if you can get one.
I was thinking the same. Mine was loose and hanging when I got it. I tightened it down. Not sure if theres damage
While you had the carb off I wish you had spent a minute on the fuel pump. They do get dirty and need attention. Doing a compression check would tell me if it needs help. Inspecting the head gasket too would let me know if something was amiss. I'm all for replacing the carb if it was bad. Good informative video , keep them coming.
Take it apart. If the diaphragm us in good condition make sure the little valves are seated good sometimes they come out. Put it together. Good to go as long as the stream is steady your good
@@mjj8170 One in my garage now is proving hard to get the diaphram . Sitting for years with bad gas took a tole on it.
I have acquired several of these series of engines over the years. Everyone did not run because the tops of the pistons had separated from the bottoms.
What are the odds?
Norman I have a 42 year old John Deere 212 Garden Tractor K series. It backfires once in a while I guess that is carbon build up on the valves?
well Horse tractor with a kolher engine but I do not know the power I am looking for a starter if you know a website thanking you good day and great video thank
Which Wheel Horse Model is it? Does it say anything on the hood? You can also email me a picture of it and I can figure out what you have. info@isavetractors.com
@@Isavetractors merci beaucoup
Greetings from across the pond! Would one of these engines be in a Wheelhorse C-165?
Yes this would be the exact one!
Hello Norman !!!!
Thank you for your channel
I have a 1966 Wheel Horse 12 hp engine
With a sick carburetor. I have looked on your website and want order a gasket kit I’m a little confused…. Which one do I get???
Thanks in advance!!! Signed , out in the sticks Terry W