I have a 2008 Ford Ranger 3.0 auto. My dad bought it new. I learned to drive in it, took my test in it. And I now own it today. I bought it from my mom after he passed.
This ranger has to be up north. Rust causes almost all of these issues. I’m in the south and own an 08 and my ranger has 200k miles but still runs like a top. 4cyl 5speed. I did do a clutch job on it myself. Only cost me about 100 dollars in parts. (Already had the tools) I’ll keep my ranger forever. One of the best built trucks in my opinion.
I just took my 94 4 cyclinder 5 speed to the salvage yesterday. Owned it for 18 years. Rust got it. Found a Nice 2002 Ford Ranger 4 x 4 4.0 5 sp auto on the drive back. Test drove it and also had my mechanic test drive it. (We’re both kinda Ford Guys) I bought it. They dealer hadn’t even listed it for sale yet. Gonna do a better job of of washing the salt off from underneath this one.
My 99 rangers wipers would randomly turn on. They would do it in the fast food drive through & make an awful squeak. Peeps working would be like, you know it’s not raining, right?!
@1A Auto you guys provide excellent top notch Ford Ranger repair information! I own a 2011 Ranger 4.0L V6, 156,000km and running great! I've replaced brake rotors, pads, parking brake shoes, front wheel bearings, thermostat (x2) and stereo with help from your videos (Ford Tech. Manual from Amazon also helped). Looking forward to more repairs/projects and videos!! Sending love from Canada!!
These are excellent trucks. Ours is a 1998 XLT extended cab with 4.0L six cylinder engine and 4WD. It's at 270,000 km or about 160,000 miles. I had to replace the alternator many miles ago, replaced the front wheel bearings too, and just replaced the transfer case shift motor, but other than that have never had issues of any kind. Even the dreaded PVH (pulse vacuum hublock) front hubs have never given us trouble. Overall, a very reliable vehicle. We always change fluids and filters when we should, of course.
Bought a new 2001 4x4, 4.0 SOHC, XLT. Closing in on 200 K. Only nonroutine maintenance has occurred in last 5 yrs. Replaced torque converter selenoid, fuel pump/gauge, valve cover and pan gaskets and radiator. Total cost less than $2 K. Runs great doesnt use oil, gonna drive it til it dies.
You forgot the rusting/rotting chassis frame. I've had several that rusted at the connection of the front and rear frame rails. It happens because the bed drains right on the frame rails at that spot. It can get so bad that the frame rots and can break in half if not monitored and maintained.
I have owned a 2000 XLT 4 cylinder with automatic transmission for over 20 years. It currently has 198,000 mi. The multifunction switch was replaced when it was still under extended warranty because the wipers would just turn on without touching the switch. The upper control arms on the front wheels wear out too frequently in my opinion. Currently, it has a check engine light due to a leak in the EVAP system. Last time I had that code, the problem was a hole rusted through my fuel filler neck. Haven't found the leak yet this time. Tail gate won't go down because the bed is warped. Drive it to work everyday.
I paid 3800$ for a 1998 whith 125 k miles it's the 2.3 manual , it's like brand new the paint it's near perfect the only thing that is wrong is my temperature gauge isn't working . I'm happy with my purchase I'll update latter wen I put more miles
2002 Mazda B3000. 289k miles. Still gets around 19-21 mpg. Great truck. Last maintenance done was cleaning the IAC valve, made huge positive impact on the wacky idle it had developed.
My 99 2wd std cab stripper has the 4 banger with AT, and still runs good at 178k miles. The only frill is AC, which wouldn't be a "frill" in a warmer state. It's been wrecked 3 times and has a salvage title, but it just keeps going. I took a 3000 mile road trip with it one year ago, and slept in the bed under a canopy. Not a luxurious trip 😂, but fun.
Got a 2004 Edge with 112K miles. Ran fine for the last seven months; this morning it would not turn over (alternator or starter, guessing). Jumped it, and went to drive it to get it fixed, and it would not move! Shifter was fine into R N D 1 2, but it would not budge. Even in neutral it would not move. I will have to have it towed, and I hope it is not a transmission issue. O.o
Bought my ranger edge new in 2001. 3 liter v6. The engine- Nothing other than tune ups and oil changes. Brake pads at 90 thousand miles. New clutch at 130 thousand miles. Running like new . Had a problem with my seat belt and the seats are worn.
What motor. Was it 4.0my friend 226 k i have 3.0 150 k iv seen 4 cylinders closed too 200k ?? My 3.o did have heads gaskit blow out cuz thermostat wasnt big deal. Ive done electric motor fan and took off belt driven. One. 30 percent more cool radiator from ebay im fixing to last 60 k with after market parts better than 2000 chevy v6 and other competition jeep 4.0 are great
the head issues are only found in the 3.0 Vulcans so if you have the 2.2, 2.3 then you're in the clear. now as for the 4.0 she has a achilles heel from hell far worse then the 3.0 and that's if you have the 4.0 SOHC engine then you're going to run into timing chain failure which happens in the ballpark of 200k-250k miles depending how well the engine was maintained.
they may have their issues but don't worry about them too much because i have a 2000 ranger with the 3.0L paired with the 4r55e auto transmission and the truck is well over 400k miles and still going strong down the road
Lol I know this old but you missed the biggest issue with these trucks! The plastic thermostat housing! That thing cracks and fails every 30k miles or so, but they now finally make a metal one to replace it 👍
found this rather informative, im in the process of buying my grandpas 2007 ford ranger with ~100,000 miles on it so just wanted to have some background going into it
In states that use salt during winter I noticed that the red bottom spring on the brake shoes will wear down and crack. This will cause your brake shoes to drag on the drum until repairs are made with replacement of spring. The spring will last longer if you clean them prior to first snow fall with brake clean. Also clean in the spring make sure to check thel spring for rust or metal fatigue. 2001 ranger 190k. 2 batteries 2 sets of new brake rotors & drums. Complete overhaul of the front suspension and changed all bushings. 3 fuel filter replaced My biggest problem was the inertia switch becoming faulty every other year in winter time. Left me stranded like the saying "Found on road dead". M
08 2.3 5spd 75k on it when I bought it and had to replace the first week the slave cyl/throw bearing so crazy ford put that part in these trucks you have to change the whole trans instead of a 5 min job switching an external mounted slave. Also surprised no one mentioning ball joints failing pretty early on these trucks still yet I love this truck Moved to this truck after scrapping my 2000 Nissan Frontier I got for $500 bought at 220k miles and blew it up at 340k of hard redline miles
Great video. Had my transmission rebuilt about 7 years ago and it's still going strong. Well worth the $1,500 to keep my '01 4.0L on the road. #6 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. These can catastrophically fail but you SHOULD receive the trouble code which will point directly to this faulty switch. You'll experience a sudden crank, no-start condition and may observe (and smell) fuel coming out of the exhaust as you crank the engine. It MAY start after about 2 minutes of cranking (which will save you a tow but get it home right away - it'll run rough). On the bright side this is a $20 switch. Plenty of videos out there on how to swap it out. Lastly, bring it with you to match up with the new part. There are rectangular an round electrical connectors and you want to be sure to get the correct one. As a first check I put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail to ensure adequate pressure i.e., no fuel pump issues. Upon removing the old switch it was reading in MOhms (Mega) when it should have been KOhms. This offered me a bit of relief before putting the new switch in. Good luck.
Glad to hear of about another 4.0 on the road!! I have 2000 and same, rebuilt transmission, various odds and ends through the years including an engine rebuild. 450k miles on it and still running.
Had a 94 B4000 (same truck) ran forevah! Would stil have it but it got rear-ended & totaled. Love my new to me 01 supercab 4dr, 4.0, 4×4. Great lil trucks!
Don't forget the fuse panel behind the passenger side kick plate. These get corrosion and will short to other circuits. Had this issue on my 04 Ranger and when you turn the headlights on, the horn would sound! Cleaned up the corrosion and the short went away. I was lucky, sometimes you have to replace the fuse panel.
Dont forget the tensioners in the engine depending on if its a 4.0 or a 3.0. Had to rebuild an entire engine Transmission went out on me going down the highway Had alignment issues
I had an awesome 03' Ranger 3.0L XLT 5-speed manual. Sold a few months ago with 97k miles. A great truck for sure. I never experienced any of the issues in the video thankfully. Just the normal maintenance stuff :)
I have a 2002 Ford ranger XLT has the 3.0 liter V6 just turned 216,000 original miles , had it for 4 years , gave $2,600 for it , have not had any trouble like this guy is talking about , no rusted frame , truck uses no oil , has been a great truck no issues
Had a beautiful 2010 Ranger, 4 cyl, auto, 2WD. best small truck I ever owned, and i"ve owned a few over 35 years - all used, like this one. AFter about 2 years of driving it almostexclusively at night becaue of my job, I changed to another shift and noticed that it sat a bit low on the driver side. Though t it was tire pressure but I'm religious about maintainance. No one could figure it out, not a frame and body shop, no one. Bothered me so much I traded it for another truck. Just got into my head. Now, I'm ereducing to one vehicle and I'm looking at another 3rd gen Ranger, but in 4WD. This time I'll but iot in the daylight...
I have a 99 ranger and my problems I had we’re my brakes went out, starter, radiator, and a cylinder 3 misfire with 190 k miles. Overall it drives well those problems are mainly just old truck problems
My 2001 Ranger (218,000 mi) had a bad heat sensor that was under the intake manifold. It would not restart after even a short drive of 3/4 mile. Trying to restart it in this condition, virtually EVERY warning light lit. When dead cold the truck would start normally. Off to a good garage and $480 later it was fixed. Lots of labor. NOT MENTIONED is the TURN SIGNAL problem that develops with TILT STEERING COLUMNS. The signals worked with the tilt UP, but NOT when DOWN. I searched on line to find the issue is the connection block in the steering column. The wires are a bit too short and start to pull loose. The web site demonstrated two or three fixes readers demonstrated that worked.
I have owned a few Rangers. 2.3,3.0 and 4.0.L The only serious issues I had was with 2 standard transmission ones. That hydraulic release bearing is the weak point of the standards. The one I am driving now is a 4.0L. The release bearing went at 110,000 km. The clutch was still in excellent condition.
When I bought my 02 ranger used, the shift cable was so out of adjustment that It wouldn't even go into the 1, or 2 gear selection. The gear select indicator on the dash was way off, no telling what you had selected.
I've got a 2005 had a broken valve spring repaired in the parts store parking lot used rubber hose to fill the cylinder changed the spring drove it home I was in Louisiana drove it home to south Carolina when home I replaced all valve springs and I'm still driving it 300.000 + miles running strong
As an owner of the Mazda brother I’ve had zero of these issues mine are all suspension related front and rear the bushing are trash and can’t find a polyurethane set for some reason And the coil pack went out causing a misfire, super easy fix
The 5 problems I've run into with my 2004 Ford Ranger 3.0L V6 and 5 speed manual. #1. Climate control blower motor. On my 3rd one about to install #4. #2. Muffler rot. OEM didn't last 60,000 miles and I live in Georgia. Put in a Flowmaster series 60 at about 65,000 miles. Now at 276,000. #3. Exterior door handles. Put the second one on the drivers side this past Saturday. Dorman 90606 this time. Better than the sh*t I got off eBay last time. #4. Radiator replacement at 150,000 miles and starting to leak again. Rubber gasket between plastic side tanks and aluminum radiator just don't last more that 5-6 years. #5. Headlights. On second set of aftermarket headlight housings. Doesn't matter how well you clean them they only last 4-5 years before cleaning and polishing is a waste of time. Save the lower outboard adjuster from you original headlights. Install left to left right to right.. If your headlights were aimed well before the change they have a very good chance of being close with the new ones. #6 Bonus!! Heater core.. Got hit in the A pillar passengers side about 5 years ago and last winter it sprung a leak. Bypassed the heater core in spring and forgot about replacing it until about two weeks ago when it started getting cold.
Oh one thing I have seen a lot of is the fuel gauge not working or fluctuates and showing inaccurate fuel levels i wonder how many people out there have seen the same thing
That's the ones I love laying underneath working on something and all the rough falling in your ears and your eyes you got to love it. Look like that truck come from Buffalo New York
The 2.3L DOHC Ranger has other common problems: plastic thermostat leak, heater control valve leak, fuel pumps, intake runner flaps(01-03), 22-28mpg, I do not know about the auto transmission mine is manual.The biggest problem is finding information about the truck
I have a 1999 Ranger 4.0L with 189,000 miles ! passes smog every time. Ive changed the oil every 4 months with new spark plugs every 6 months. The interior is just like new except I had to replace the original leather steering wheel. The AC needs to have its lube and coolant changed out once a year. 22 miles per gallon highway.
My grandaddy had the ac installed specifically for that only year model at the time, including the idle control and 4.0 245 efi motor in my 1999 ford ranger sport. Just bought a new thermostat, severe duty fan, and clutch, and coolant has been flushed twice with new filters and still going stronger than ever. i tried to finish it the way my grandaddy wouldve wanted his stepside. He didnt get to ride in it for long before he fell and messed up his hip.
Flex-fuel sensor rarely goes bad, BUT... it's EXPENSIVE ($400 up to $900+) so grab one from the U-pick yard. (Only found on Flex-Fuel 3.0 Rangers, with a 'V' in middle of the VIN...)
How about the 4.0 SOHC engines and the plastic thermostat housing cracking and leaking ? Or the plastic timing chain tensioners in the 4.0 ? The axle seals in the 4x4 ? Cruise control module going out ? All of these are very common and could potentially be catastrophic.
1. Timing chain seal leak on the 3-liter V6. Notorious to leak water on the passenger side timing cover. When changing the water pump expect to change the timing cover seal.
2008 4WD 4 ltr. L front hub grind noise. Replaced both front hub bearings. Thermostat housing leak and out of range DTC for temp sensor. Replaced with an aluminum housing with new sensor. Blend air door actuator failure. Crankshaft position sensor caused random engine shut off. This issue does not produce a DTC. These are common issues. My Ranger looks and runs like new. People have asked me if I would sell it.
I just bought one, a 2000 ford ranger XLT with 156,000 miles in good condition for $3000, I thought it was a good deal and 11 people were trying to get it so I bought it.
You forgot the exploding plastic thermostat housing you're going to have to start replacing every couple of years. Repairs have been a constant with this truck. My mechanic did a wellness check when I didn't bring it in one month.
2011 4.0L, these are most of the things replaced over 11 years/115,000 miles: • 2 transmission extension housing seals - leak • Column shifter bushing - worn • Window washer fluid pump - leak • At least one cracked Thermostat housing…of course • AC Temperature Blend door actuator - heat did not work • Master Cylinder - brake pedal to the floor • Radiator Cap - not sealing properly
I just inherited my dad’s 2001 ranger 3.0l Feels way underpowered and holds the rpm high and shifts hard. Overdrive flashes at you (I read that means it’s getting hot?) Googled up some causes and fixes. I serviced the trans, checked the valve body bolts, replaced a rear speed sensor. Biggest help was replacing the bad fan clutch, but trans still feels iffy. Now the radio doesn’t power up. Sheesh
number 1 problem is that it's not a 2nd generation '97 model . . . 220k miles here, nothing replaced except timing belts/water pump, radiator, and alternator.
My 2000 3.0 liter Ranger needed an oil seal replaced which required removing the engine. Cost $1,000 to get it fixed. It was losing a quart of oil every 3 days even if I didn't drive it.
I have a 2005 ranger. I had the multifunction switch problem. Bought a new one and replaced it. It worked for a few days. Wipers work at full speed only now. I’ve had the cylinder misfire problem. Replaced the plugs ,wires, fuel injectors, some other thing I can’t remember what it’s called. Still not fixed. Fuel pump died. Replaced that. So far I’m still waiting to see if that fixed the misfire problem. My transmission makes me nervous every now and again as it seems to not want to shift when I think it should. I don’t have flex fuel ,so that’s one thing I won’t have to worry about. Otherwise I’m sure I’d have a problem with that.
What I’ve seen: 2.3l is a bulletproof engine just change your oil regurlarly 4.0 ohv reliable engine, valve cover leaks are common, cracked cylinder heads when overheated, and poor lubrication to rocker arms. 4.0 sohc if your buying one used just change the tensioners it could save you a lot of money, change your oil very regularly. 3.0 v6 I don’t even know why this was an option same gas mileage as the 4.0 and only 10 more hp than the 2.3. Has head cracking problems.
Hello and thanks for this video. I see a lot of corrosion on the chassis and i just bought a ranger (2007 2.5L TDCI 143ch) with a similar chassis although there is no puncture corrosion. Should it be worried?
My dad has a 2000 ford ranger with the 4.0 v6 now it has 506k and still running decent but does want to die at red lights (it’s an auto). Besides that it’s alright
Number 3 hit me like a truck last week. Truck kept shutting the overdrive off. When the overdrive was turned off it would kick into second. If I let it sit off for a minute then the overdrive comes back on when the vehicle is started and there is no kick into second, but give it a few minutes and the same problem reoccurs. Took it to the shop and it needs a $1800 rebuild 😬 they won't even start till next week as well so that's also nice. Truck only has 130k miles
Seems like my engine light is always on. It's on now and couldn't smog it. They gave me the code P1401. My only engine breakdown was the timing belt broke on the way to work. It costed 50 to tow and 100 to replace belt. It's been a great truck. Only paid 2,700 for it in 2008.
I have replaced all the sensors and it was working great. I just put gas from the same place as always, and when the 2004 Ford Ranger 3.0 XLT is placed on park, the truck starts to shake? Any ideas?
Front differential work for 4x4 models? Love to see a video for removal, axle seal replacement, and carrier/differential inspection for the Dana 35 SLA (AMC Model 35).
@@1AAuto Thank you! Why I asked, NO ONE has a video or even decent tutorial on working with these axles, which seems strange considering how many are on the road in Rangers and Explorers.
I'm surprised you didn't mention slip yoke (clunk) issues...just like on the F150s. For anyone reading this comment, DO NOT clean your slip yoke with any kind of solvent (brake cleaner). You could damage the ceramic coating. Just wipe it clean with a rag, then apply the proper Ford grease when putting it back together. Sadly, when I regrease my slip yoke, the clunk only goes away for a couple of months, then it returns. In fact, it's progressed to a triple clunk. With the slip yoke not sliding forward as it's supposed to, that intended movement has to go somewhere. As a result of the slip yoke not slipping, the front of my rear diff pitches upwards, dramatically (one clunk?), and I suspect the rear springs are warping upwards, too (second clunk?) The third clunk might be the slip yoke, eventually, slipping under pressure. Then, when coming to a stop, I get a single "plunk". I suspect the plunk is the slip yoke releasing under tension (due to binding in the forward position) as the truck and the drivetrain come to a rest.
Ford ditched the twin plug 2.5L 4 cylinder half way through the 2001 model year. I have my 2004 for sale and several weeks ago some idiot called on it after seeing it outside and asked if the timing belt had been replaced and I replied with that it’s the Mazda design 16 valve 2.3 engine which is better than that old German 2.5 and it has a timing chain. He asked another question which I was answering when he hung up on me. What a jerk!
Extremely vague as there were several different engines available between these years the 4 cylinder the 3.0 and 4.0 v6 4.0 coming in ohv and different ohc variations Running at least 4 different sets of cylinder heads One big downside at least with the 4.0 ohv is the steel parts in the cooling system such as thermostat housing rusting and leaking and of course the expansion plug failure Or the notorious steering pump whine
Is the cylinder head issue on the V-6 or 4-banger? I have had a 1998 V-6 stick, a 2003 4-cyl auto, and a 2011 4-cyl stick. The '98 developed a leak in the clutch slave cylinder and I learned that was a common problem at that time. It didn't slip very bad but if you sat at a stop light very long with the clutch in you would start feel it start to pull. I just lived with it for 98,000 miles. The '03 auto developed the shift issue discussed but I just lived with it. When I would slow to a turn where it had to downshift into 2nd it would seem to slip as I started to accelerate and then really grab. I just learned to accelerate slowly until it shifted. The plastic heater control valve body cracked on the '03. My mechanic replaced it two times with an aftermarket and ultimately had to get the expensive Ford part. Ford dealer told us it was common. Other items to watch that are common on all are rusting of the bed bolts to frame (four of the six on the 03 failed), rust failure rear backets of the leaf springs to frame connection (happened on the 03), and rust failure of the metal straps holding the gas tank (occurred on the 98). The fact that I live in the northeast Ohio winters and thanks to a really good Ford dealer parts manager, I knew to watch all of these items.
At what point would these issue start to surface? 100k, 150k, 200k miles? I have a 99 Ranger with 112k miles, manual transmission, and I don't have any of these issues.
@@chriscope346 i have a 2000 , 4.0 SOHC explorer that has no issues other than the door lock and cruise control buttons becoming goo , that are particular to the explorer , at 216k
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Could you do a video for 2nd generation Ford Explorers, and a separate video for 2nd generation Ford Rangers?? Please. 😬
My ranger won't start batter has fire and starter has fire
I have a 2008 Ford Ranger 3.0 auto. My dad bought it new. I learned to drive in it, took my test in it. And I now own it today. I bought it from my mom after he passed.
Use that bad boy for life and rip to your father my guy head up
Beautiful brotha
Okayyy sooo.. Has there been any issues like this video has mentioned?
I am in the same situation !!! Literally same situation
This ranger has to be up north. Rust causes almost all of these issues. I’m in the south and own an 08 and my ranger has 200k miles but still runs like a top. 4cyl 5speed. I did do a clutch job on it myself. Only cost me about 100 dollars in parts. (Already had the tools) I’ll keep my ranger forever. One of the best built trucks in my opinion.
I just took my 94 4 cyclinder 5 speed to the salvage yesterday. Owned it for 18 years. Rust got it. Found a Nice 2002 Ford Ranger 4 x 4 4.0 5 sp auto on the drive back. Test drove it and also had my mechanic test drive it. (We’re both kinda Ford Guys) I bought it. They dealer hadn’t even listed it for sale yet. Gonna do a better job of of washing the salt off from underneath this one.
What the price range for a 2011 model 4cylinder standard transmission?
That's one tough truck !! I had a 1995 Ranger XLT regular cab, 5 speed, 4 banger, swb, and it had 356,980 miles on it when I finally sold it !!
Hello how are you doing Timothy. I trust you are safe and in good health.
Wow i have the exact same truck you just mentioned but with about 500000 miles on it.
It’s funny, i’ve owned a 1999 Ranger for 10 yrs and have yet to experience any of these issues.
YOU JUST JINXED YOURSELF, BE CAREFUL!
Same here after 811,000 miles!
My 99 rangers wipers would randomly turn on. They would do it in the fast food drive through & make an awful squeak. Peeps working would be like, you know it’s not raining, right?!
@@chriscusick6890 really? Please upload a video of your truck. I’m looking at a 2010 4 cylinder ranger for work
@@chriscusick6890 no way that many miles
@1A Auto you guys provide excellent top notch Ford Ranger repair information! I own a 2011 Ranger 4.0L V6, 156,000km and running great! I've replaced brake rotors, pads, parking brake shoes, front wheel bearings, thermostat (x2) and stereo with help from your videos (Ford Tech. Manual from Amazon also helped). Looking forward to more repairs/projects and videos!! Sending love from Canada!!
These are excellent trucks. Ours is a 1998 XLT extended cab with 4.0L six cylinder engine and 4WD. It's at 270,000 km or about 160,000 miles. I had to replace the alternator many miles ago, replaced the front wheel bearings too, and just replaced the transfer case shift motor, but other than that have never had issues of any kind. Even the dreaded PVH (pulse vacuum hublock) front hubs have never given us trouble. Overall, a very reliable vehicle. We always change fluids and filters when we should, of course.
Bought a new 2001 4x4, 4.0 SOHC, XLT. Closing in on 200 K. Only nonroutine maintenance has occurred in last 5 yrs. Replaced torque converter selenoid, fuel pump/gauge, valve cover and pan gaskets and radiator. Total cost less than $2 K. Runs great doesnt use oil, gonna drive it til it dies.
Looks like a rust problem where you're at as well
I thought that was a Toyota frame there for a second.
Jesse Ward-You're right.I had the 99 Ranger a few years ago.I live in Maine,rock salt eats Rangers for breakfast.
That’s usually problems with every car that lives in snowy areas when they put salt on the road
You forgot the rusting/rotting chassis frame. I've had several that rusted at the connection of the front and rear frame rails. It happens because the bed drains right on the frame rails at that spot. It can get so bad that the frame rots and can break in half if not monitored and maintained.
A bunch of good running trucks with busted frames in pennsylvania it's definitely an issue in salted areas
I have owned a 2000 XLT 4 cylinder with automatic transmission for over 20 years. It currently has 198,000 mi. The multifunction switch was replaced when it was still under extended warranty because the wipers would just turn on without touching the switch. The upper control arms on the front wheels wear out too frequently in my opinion. Currently, it has a check engine light due to a leak in the EVAP system. Last time I had that code, the problem was a hole rusted through my fuel filler neck. Haven't found the leak yet this time. Tail gate won't go down because the bed is warped. Drive it to work everyday.
I paid 3800$ for a 1998 whith 125 k miles it's the 2.3 manual , it's like brand new the paint it's near perfect the only thing that is wrong is my temperature gauge isn't working . I'm happy with my purchase I'll update latter wen I put more miles
2002 Mazda B3000. 289k miles. Still gets around 19-21 mpg. Great truck. Last maintenance done was cleaning the IAC valve, made huge positive impact on the wacky idle it had developed.
mine has similar mileage and i have notice ever 25-30k miles i have to run 93 or it starts to get a rough idle till warmed up
My 99 2wd std cab stripper has the 4 banger with AT, and still runs good at 178k miles. The only frill is AC, which wouldn't be a "frill" in a warmer state. It's been wrecked 3 times and has a salvage title, but it just keeps going. I took a 3000 mile road trip with it one year ago, and slept in the bed under a canopy. Not a luxurious trip 😂, but fun.
Ty I just got a 2003 ford ranger xlt 3.0 with 80k miles on it, great truck overall! Haven’t had these problems but good to look out for
I got the same thing, 2004 similar miles on it, only thing on it was front rotors warped
Got a 2004 Edge with 112K miles. Ran fine for the last seven months; this morning it would not turn over (alternator or starter, guessing). Jumped it, and went to drive it to get it fixed, and it would not move! Shifter was fine into R N D 1 2, but it would not budge. Even in neutral it would not move. I will have to have it towed, and I hope it is not a transmission issue. O.o
Cool for how much?
@@MichaelMcAlexander sounds like it is
Bought my ranger edge new in 2001. 3 liter v6. The engine- Nothing other than tune ups and oil changes. Brake pads at 90 thousand miles. New clutch at 130 thousand miles. Running like new . Had a problem with my seat belt and the seats are worn.
"Cylinder heads"
"Transmission"
Me, with little expendable income and no backup daily driver: 😓
+Fsilone Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
What motor. Was it 4.0my friend 226 k i have 3.0 150 k iv seen 4 cylinders closed too 200k ?? My 3.o did have heads gaskit blow out cuz thermostat wasnt big deal. Ive done electric motor fan and took off belt driven. One. 30 percent more cool radiator from ebay im fixing to last 60 k with after market parts better than 2000 chevy v6 and other competition jeep 4.0 are great
run away
the head issues are only found in the 3.0 Vulcans so if you have the 2.2, 2.3 then you're in the clear. now as for the 4.0 she has a achilles heel from hell far worse then the 3.0 and that's if you have the 4.0 SOHC engine then you're going to run into timing chain failure which happens in the ballpark of 200k-250k miles depending how well the engine was maintained.
they may have their issues but don't worry about them too much because i have a 2000 ranger with the 3.0L paired with the 4r55e auto transmission and the truck is well over 400k miles and still going strong down the road
Lol I know this old but you missed the biggest issue with these trucks!
The plastic thermostat housing! That thing cracks and fails every 30k miles or so, but they now finally make a metal one to replace it 👍
Im replacing mine as I type this.... damn plastic..
I didn’t know this
Look what you started man how could you I'm typing this as buying the metal one right now
they make a metal one really you have part number is it in canada also.
Which motor?
found this rather informative, im in the process of buying my grandpas 2007 ford ranger with ~100,000 miles on it so just wanted to have some background going into it
In states that use salt during winter I noticed that the red bottom spring on the brake shoes will wear down and crack. This will cause your brake shoes to drag on the drum until repairs are made with replacement of spring.
The spring will last longer if you clean them prior to first snow fall with brake clean. Also clean in the spring make sure to check thel spring for rust or metal fatigue.
2001 ranger 190k.
2 batteries
2 sets of new brake rotors & drums.
Complete overhaul of the front suspension and changed all bushings.
3 fuel filter replaced
My biggest problem was the inertia switch becoming faulty every other year in winter time.
Left me stranded like the saying "Found on road dead".
M
08 2.3 5spd 75k on it when I bought it and had to replace the first week the slave cyl/throw bearing so crazy ford put that part in these trucks you have to change the whole trans instead of a 5 min job switching an external mounted slave. Also surprised no one mentioning ball joints failing pretty early on these trucks still yet I love this truck
Moved to this truck after scrapping my 2000 Nissan Frontier I got for $500 bought at 220k miles and blew it up at 340k of hard redline miles
Great video. Had my transmission rebuilt about 7 years ago and it's still going strong. Well worth the $1,500 to keep my '01 4.0L on the road.
#6 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. These can catastrophically fail but you SHOULD receive the trouble code which will point directly to this faulty switch. You'll experience a sudden crank, no-start condition and may observe (and smell) fuel coming out of the exhaust as you crank the engine. It MAY start after about 2 minutes of cranking (which will save you a tow but get it home right away - it'll run rough). On the bright side this is a $20 switch. Plenty of videos out there on how to swap it out. Lastly, bring it with you to match up with the new part. There are rectangular an round electrical connectors and you want to be sure to get the correct one.
As a first check I put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail to ensure adequate pressure i.e., no fuel pump issues. Upon removing the old switch it was reading in MOhms (Mega) when it should have been KOhms. This offered me a bit of relief before putting the new switch in. Good luck.
Glad to hear of about another 4.0 on the road!! I have 2000 and same, rebuilt transmission, various odds and ends through the years including an engine rebuild. 450k miles on it and still running.
Had a 94 B4000 (same truck) ran forevah! Would stil have it but it got rear-ended & totaled. Love my new to me 01 supercab 4dr, 4.0, 4×4. Great lil trucks!
Just got a 2005 3.0 extended cab xlt looking for what I should do on it to keep it running good. It has 54k miles
Don't forget the fuse panel behind the passenger side kick plate. These get corrosion and will short to other circuits. Had this issue on my 04 Ranger and when you turn the headlights on, the horn would sound! Cleaned up the corrosion and the short went away. I was lucky, sometimes you have to replace the fuse panel.
This channel is a gold mine of information.
They had 3 different engine options for the truck. The cylinder head issue is likely not on all there.
Dont forget the tensioners in the engine depending on if its a 4.0 or a 3.0. Had to rebuild an entire engine
Transmission went out on me going down the highway
Had alignment issues
I had an awesome 03' Ranger 3.0L XLT 5-speed manual. Sold a few months ago with 97k miles. A great truck for sure. I never experienced any of the issues in the video thankfully. Just the normal maintenance stuff :)
+Lucas Stuart-Chilcote Thanks for the feedback!
I have a 2002 Ford ranger XLT has the 3.0 liter V6 just turned 216,000 original miles , had it for 4 years , gave $2,600 for it , have not had any trouble like this guy is talking about , no rusted frame , truck uses no oil , has been a great truck no issues
Rear front and rear spring hangers and shackls in the rust belt
same with the shock perches as well along with frame rot behind the perch
The previous owner of mine didn't replace his and the leafs went through the bed
Had a beautiful 2010 Ranger, 4 cyl, auto, 2WD. best small truck I ever owned, and i"ve owned a few over 35 years - all used, like this one. AFter about 2 years of driving it almostexclusively at night becaue of my job, I changed to another shift and noticed that it sat a bit low on the driver side. Though t it was tire pressure but I'm religious about maintainance. No one could figure it out, not a frame and body shop, no one. Bothered me so much I traded it for another truck. Just got into my head.
Now, I'm ereducing to one vehicle and I'm looking at another 3rd gen Ranger, but in 4WD. This time I'll but iot in the daylight...
1) Cylinder Heads 0:21
2) Flex Fuel Sensor 0:57
3) Transmission Issues 1:41
4) O2 Sensor Wires 2:07
5) Wiper/Combo Switch 2:55
6)R.U.S.T......1:10
7) Rust 1:17
8) And More Rust 1:53
I have a 99 ranger and my problems I had we’re my brakes went out, starter, radiator, and a cylinder 3 misfire with 190 k miles. Overall it drives well those problems are mainly just old truck problems
Cylinder heads, transmission and sensors. Never mind then, was thinking of buying one but I’ll go a different way.
All trucks have there problems but I bet if you ask any Ford ranger owners they will recommend this truck for they’re amazing reliability
My 2001 Ranger (218,000 mi) had a bad heat sensor that was under the intake manifold. It would not restart after even a short drive of 3/4 mile. Trying to restart it in this condition, virtually EVERY warning light lit. When dead cold the truck would start normally. Off to a good garage and $480 later it was fixed. Lots of labor.
NOT MENTIONED is the TURN SIGNAL problem that develops with TILT STEERING COLUMNS. The signals worked with the tilt UP, but NOT when DOWN. I searched on line to find the issue is the connection block in the steering column. The wires are a bit too short and start to pull loose. The web site demonstrated two or three fixes readers demonstrated that worked.
I have owned a few Rangers. 2.3,3.0 and 4.0.L The only serious issues I had was with 2 standard transmission ones. That hydraulic release bearing is the weak point of the standards. The one I am driving now is a 4.0L. The release bearing went at 110,000 km. The clutch was still in excellent condition.
+Robert Olsen Thanks for the feedback!
When I bought my 02 ranger used, the shift cable was so out of adjustment that It wouldn't even go into the 1, or 2 gear selection. The gear select indicator on the dash was way off, no telling what you had selected.
I've got a 2005 had a broken valve spring repaired in the parts store parking lot used rubber hose to fill the cylinder changed the spring drove it home I was in Louisiana drove it home to south Carolina when home I replaced all valve springs and I'm still driving it 300.000 + miles running strong
Finally a GOOD MECHANIC. KEEP SENDING THE GOODS
+Ran Ger Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
As an owner of the Mazda brother I’ve had zero of these issues mine are all suspension related front and rear the bushing are trash and can’t find a polyurethane set for some reason
And the coil pack went out causing a misfire, super easy fix
+David Anthony Verderosa Thanks for the feedback!
The 5 problems I've run into with my 2004 Ford Ranger 3.0L V6 and 5 speed manual.
#1. Climate control blower motor. On my 3rd one about to install #4.
#2. Muffler rot. OEM didn't last 60,000 miles and I live in Georgia. Put in a Flowmaster series 60 at about 65,000 miles. Now at 276,000.
#3. Exterior door handles. Put the second one on the drivers side this past Saturday. Dorman 90606 this time. Better than the sh*t I got off eBay last time.
#4. Radiator replacement at 150,000 miles and starting to leak again. Rubber gasket between plastic side tanks and aluminum radiator just don't last more that 5-6 years.
#5. Headlights. On second set of aftermarket headlight housings. Doesn't matter how well you clean them they only last 4-5 years before cleaning and polishing is a waste of time. Save the lower outboard adjuster from you original headlights. Install left to left right to right.. If your headlights were aimed well before the change they have a very good chance of being close with the new ones.
#6 Bonus!! Heater core.. Got hit in the A pillar passengers side about 5 years ago and last winter it sprung a leak. Bypassed the heater core in spring and forgot about replacing it until about two weeks ago when it started getting cold.
Oh one thing I have seen a lot of is the fuel gauge not working or fluctuates and showing inaccurate fuel levels i wonder how many people out there have seen the same thing
Did you figure out the temperature gauge issue?
my $200 ranger has been good to me other than a starter and battery
How'd you get a ranger for 200 dollars?
Dam that frame is rusted wow !
LMAOOOOO
Where I come from every car 10 years or older looks like that underneath
That's the ones I love laying underneath working on something and all the rough falling in your ears and your eyes you got to love it. Look like that truck come from Buffalo New York
The 2.3L DOHC Ranger has other common problems: plastic thermostat leak, heater control valve leak, fuel pumps, intake runner flaps(01-03), 22-28mpg, I do not know about the auto transmission mine is manual.The biggest problem is finding information about the truck
I have a 1999 Ranger 4.0L with 189,000 miles ! passes smog every time. Ive changed the oil every 4 months with new spark plugs every 6 months. The interior is just like new except I had to replace the original leather steering wheel. The AC needs to have its lube and coolant changed out once a year. 22 miles per gallon highway.
My grandaddy had the ac installed specifically for that only year model at the time, including the idle control and 4.0 245 efi motor in my 1999 ford ranger sport. Just bought a new thermostat, severe duty fan, and clutch, and coolant has been flushed twice with new filters and still going stronger than ever. i tried to finish it the way my grandaddy wouldve wanted his stepside. He didnt get to ride in it for long before he fell and messed up his hip.
Flex-fuel sensor rarely goes bad, BUT... it's EXPENSIVE ($400 up to $900+) so grab one from the U-pick yard. (Only found on Flex-Fuel 3.0 Rangers, with a 'V' in middle of the VIN...)
How about the 4.0 SOHC engines and the plastic thermostat housing cracking and leaking ? Or the plastic timing chain tensioners in the 4.0 ? The axle seals in the 4x4 ? Cruise control module going out ? All of these are very common and could potentially be catastrophic.
I find this channel concise and to the point(s) Thumbs up
With the compression test your lowest cylinder compression should be with in 15psi of the highest cylinder compression
Ay I ask for this a while back, thanks for doin it!
+A furry degenerate You're welcome! Thanks for watching! 1AAuto.com
Hey let's do a top problems for 8th generation Honda Civic please!
+Ziggy Herbacek We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1AAuto.com
1. Timing chain seal leak on the 3-liter V6. Notorious to leak water on the passenger side timing cover. When changing the water pump expect to change the timing cover seal.
2008 4WD 4 ltr. L front hub grind noise. Replaced both front hub bearings. Thermostat housing leak and out of range DTC for temp sensor. Replaced with an aluminum housing with new sensor. Blend air door actuator failure. Crankshaft position sensor caused random engine shut off. This issue does not produce a DTC. These are common issues.
My Ranger looks and runs like new. People have asked me if I would sell it.
I just bought one, a 2000 ford ranger XLT with 156,000 miles in good condition for $3000, I thought it was a good deal and 11 people were trying to get it so I bought it.
I also have a Ranger excellent truck very reliable vehicle Would buy another one in a heart beet
Have on myself. 99' - 3.0liter. I have the wiper going crazy issue.
Ford fixed that for free back in 2000... probably still sell the replacement part (stalk knob).
You forgot the exploding plastic thermostat housing you're going to have to start replacing every couple of years. Repairs have been a constant with this truck. My mechanic did a wellness check when I didn't bring it in one month.
2011 4.0L, these are most of the things replaced over 11 years/115,000 miles:
• 2 transmission extension housing seals - leak
• Column shifter bushing - worn
• Window washer fluid pump - leak
• At least one cracked Thermostat housing…of course
• AC Temperature Blend door actuator - heat did not work
• Master Cylinder - brake pedal to the floor
• Radiator Cap - not sealing properly
I just inherited my dad’s 2001 ranger 3.0l Feels way underpowered and holds the rpm high and shifts hard. Overdrive flashes at you (I read that means it’s getting hot?) Googled up some causes and fixes. I serviced the trans, checked the valve body bolts, replaced a rear speed sensor. Biggest help was replacing the bad fan clutch, but trans still feels iffy. Now the radio doesn’t power up. Sheesh
number 1 problem is that it's not a 2nd generation '97 model . . . 220k miles here, nothing replaced except timing belts/water pump, radiator, and alternator.
I'm glad I found this video I have a 98 thanks for the great video
+Master of Lightning 2001 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Just got a 97 with 68k miles needs love but looking forward to fixing her up hows your truck?
Great vid, I always wondered what the 3rd Gens were like. Glad I passed on trading my 95 lol
Cylinder heads are a problem with the 3.0 V6 engines and timing chains on the 4.0 SOHC.
I have a 216k mile one that the chains are quiet on
2011... nothing yet.
I have a 5 speed manual & 4 cyl. Extra Cab.
My 2000 3.0 liter Ranger needed an oil seal replaced which required removing the engine. Cost $1,000 to get it fixed. It was losing a quart of oil every 3 days even if I didn't drive it.
Never had an issue with either of mine, gd Chevy has left me stranded and walking a lot
Ford power
really? I've had more issues with ford than any gm product
U know what they say. A family that rides in a Ford together don’t die in a Chevy.
...that 6th Spark Plug....🤪😉
You know, the last one at the back towards the dash?
Have fun getting that last one replaced!
😄
i got the 2002 4.0 easy peasy to do considering the 96 and 97 ranger xlt with the 2.3 are harder
If you go through the wheel well with the tire off you can reach all spark plugs without taking anything off the motor.
Had a 02 b3000. Good truck. However was a victim of cylinder head issue
I`ve owned a 2007 Ford Ranger 4x4 3.0 Vulcan w/Auto since new......90,000 Trouble Free Miles.....Fords Forever.....
I have a 2005 ranger. I had the multifunction switch problem. Bought a new one and replaced it. It worked for a few days. Wipers work at full speed only now. I’ve had the cylinder misfire problem. Replaced the plugs ,wires, fuel injectors, some other thing I can’t remember what it’s called. Still not fixed. Fuel pump died. Replaced that. So far I’m still waiting to see if that fixed the misfire problem. My transmission makes me nervous every now and again as it seems to not want to shift when I think it should. I don’t have flex fuel ,so that’s one thing I won’t have to worry about. Otherwise I’m sure I’d have a problem with that.
Since when could you put e85 in these?
I scratched my head when he said that.
Have a 2002 XLT 60/40 seats. Drivers side recliner broken; seat falls if pushed on. Found the head of a Torex shouldered bolt on the floor.
I’ve got a 2010 2.3 with 170k still purring pretty good. Gonna sell this bad boy. Any takers?
Had a 2000 4.0 .replaced idle control valve about 3 times. Hard to start.
What I’ve seen:
2.3l is a bulletproof engine just change your oil regurlarly
4.0 ohv reliable engine, valve cover leaks are common, cracked cylinder heads when overheated, and poor lubrication to rocker arms.
4.0 sohc if your buying one used just change the tensioners it could save you a lot of money, change your oil very regularly.
3.0 v6 I don’t even know why this was an option same gas mileage as the 4.0 and only 10 more hp than the 2.3. Has head cracking problems.
little to no difference in a mazda b2500 compared to the ranger right?
Don’t forget #6
E-Brake cable rubbing on leaf spring
Hello and thanks for this video. I see a lot of corrosion on the chassis and i just bought a ranger (2007 2.5L TDCI 143ch) with a similar chassis although there is no puncture corrosion. Should it be worried?
Most of the things you said in the video are things that are wrong with my 2001 ford ranger lol I also have a big rust problem like you guys
+sonsonny1000 Thanks for the feedback!
My dad has a 2000 ford ranger with the 4.0 v6 now it has 506k and still running decent but does want to die at red lights (it’s an auto). Besides that it’s alright
Would have been nice to mention which engine is common to have the head problems and if other option do or don't as well.
+Ryan Mickels We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
3.0's mostly, some 4.os. main cause for crscke heads is gettig overly hot, blown head gasket is sometimes problem too .
Number 3 hit me like a truck last week. Truck kept shutting the overdrive off. When the overdrive was turned off it would kick into second. If I let it sit off for a minute then the overdrive comes back on when the vehicle is started and there is no kick into second, but give it a few minutes and the same problem reoccurs. Took it to the shop and it needs a $1800 rebuild 😬 they won't even start till next week as well so that's also nice. Truck only has 130k miles
Seems like my engine light is always on. It's on now and couldn't smog it. They gave me the code P1401. My only engine breakdown was the timing belt broke on the way to work. It costed 50 to tow and 100 to replace belt. It's been a great truck. Only paid 2,700 for it in 2008.
I have replaced all the sensors and it was working great. I just put gas from the same place as always, and when the 2004 Ford Ranger 3.0 XLT is placed on park, the truck starts to shake? Any ideas?
My 99 is doing this right now. 3.0 also. Replaced the spark plugs & wires today, running much better now but still shaking. Coil, maybe. Good luck!
Jose, could be idle control sensor .
@@sarahbehler5437 3.0s cam shaft syncronizer go by 100k in 3.0. Look into it.100$ish part, 3 bolts. Takes 20 mins.
Front differential work for 4x4 models? Love to see a video for removal, axle seal replacement, and carrier/differential inspection for the Dana 35 SLA (AMC Model 35).
+MrAcuta73 We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1AAuto.com
@@1AAuto Thank you! Why I asked, NO ONE has a video or even decent tutorial on working with these axles, which seems strange considering how many are on the road in Rangers and Explorers.
I'm surprised you didn't mention slip yoke (clunk) issues...just like on the F150s. For anyone reading this comment, DO NOT clean your slip yoke with any kind of solvent (brake cleaner). You could damage the ceramic coating. Just wipe it clean with a rag, then apply the proper Ford grease when putting it back together.
Sadly, when I regrease my slip yoke, the clunk only goes away for a couple of months, then it returns. In fact, it's progressed to a triple clunk. With the slip yoke not sliding forward as it's supposed to, that intended movement has to go somewhere. As a result of the slip yoke not slipping, the front of my rear diff pitches upwards, dramatically (one clunk?), and I suspect the rear springs are warping upwards, too (second clunk?) The third clunk might be the slip yoke, eventually, slipping under pressure. Then, when coming to a stop, I get a single "plunk". I suspect the plunk is the slip yoke releasing under tension (due to binding in the forward position) as the truck and the drivetrain come to a rest.
Ford ditched the twin plug 2.5L 4 cylinder half way through the 2001 model year. I have my 2004 for sale and several weeks ago some idiot called on it after seeing it outside and asked if the timing belt had been replaced and I replied with that it’s the Mazda design 16 valve 2.3 engine which is better than that old German 2.5 and it has a timing chain. He asked another question which I was answering when he hung up on me. What a jerk!
Holy rust bucket! If I didn't know any better, I would say this poor thing came from Pittsburg, Pennsylvania or Weirton, WV.
Extremely vague as there were several different engines available between these years the 4 cylinder the 3.0 and 4.0 v6 4.0 coming in ohv and different ohc variations
Running at least 4 different sets of cylinder heads
One big downside at least with the 4.0 ohv is the steel parts in the cooling system such as thermostat housing rusting and leaking and of course the expansion plug failure
Or the notorious steering pump whine
Love me some Rangers. I have a b4000 that isn't for sale.
Is there any difference between the Mazda B4000 and the Ford Ranger?
@@drumyogi9281 nothing, Just the looks
Is the cylinder head issue on the V-6 or 4-banger? I have had a 1998 V-6 stick, a 2003 4-cyl auto, and a 2011 4-cyl stick. The '98 developed a leak in the clutch slave cylinder and I learned that was a common problem at that time. It didn't slip very bad but if you sat at a stop light very long with the clutch in you would start feel it start to pull. I just lived with it for 98,000 miles. The '03 auto developed the shift issue discussed but I just lived with it. When I would slow to a turn where it had to downshift into 2nd it would seem to slip as I started to accelerate and then really grab. I just learned to accelerate slowly until it shifted. The plastic heater control valve body cracked on the '03. My mechanic replaced it two times with an aftermarket and ultimately had to get the expensive Ford part. Ford dealer told us it was common. Other items to watch that are common on all are rusting of the bed bolts to frame (four of the six on the 03 failed), rust failure rear backets of the leaf springs to frame connection (happened on the 03), and rust failure of the metal straps holding the gas tank (occurred on the 98). The fact that I live in the northeast Ohio winters and thanks to a really good Ford dealer parts manager, I knew to watch all of these items.
Send me a video about the transmission problems please thank you
I have a 2001 Ford ranger XLT 4x4 3.0 engine and it's very hard to put gas in it what do you think the problem is?
I'm looking at a manual, so no concerns about the transmission. But is that cylinder head issue with the 2.3 or the 3.0?
Loved buying new suspension for my jeep and it being wrong and having to pay y'all $98 to ship it back to you!! thanks for that one
I guess Ca is good for preserving cars…zero rust whatsoever on my 01.
At what point would these issue start to surface? 100k, 150k, 200k miles? I have a 99 Ranger with 112k miles, manual transmission, and I don't have any of these issues.
I have a 01 Ranger with 235k miles on the odometer and I have had none of these problems.
Hey Victor, I’m looking at picking one up for a little fun run around town truck. You still happy with your truck?
Probably around 150k
@@chriscope346 i have a 2000 , 4.0 SOHC explorer that has no issues other than the door lock and cruise control buttons becoming goo , that are particular to the explorer , at 216k
I'm at 811,000 on 2.3 Ranger and have none of these problems.
my ranger had 450 K on it and only ever had the valve body issue which was a small fix.. otherwise ran great til the end when crashed it
+WPGinterceptor Thanks for the feedback!