Fantastic video Brian. I've been wanting to try the Dr. Beasley's Formula 1201 for some time now but have been hesitant. I'll be buying some of this tomorrow most likely along with the primer product as well. I also love the fact that you showed that wet sanding can also be done, quite easily, with a DA polisher and some trizact discs with minimal experience as long as you follow some basic steps and take you time doing it and don't go all crazy with it, achieving stunning results and like you said, with much less effort than trying to polish off the dead paint and clogging up you pads with the same dead paint. Really great video and very informative. Thank you sir.
For an easy to apply ceramic coating I'd highly recommend looking at Wolfgangs Uber Ceramic Spray Coating. I applied it a couple weeks ago to a prepped car (2 coats). Extremely easy on and off. Similar experience to Meguiar's Fast Finish. Supposed to last a year as well. We'll see...
I stock pile products... but only those that I know I will use eventually and can last the shelf life. For example, I talk about how I buy 5 years worth of motor oil and filters when on sale. And every drop of oil I've ever bought I've used. Keep up the great videos!
Thanks Brian, I’ve been waiting for you to review this product. I have a client who only wants a 1 year protection and I have this product. I am looking forward to applying it and seeing the results.
Apex detail resource guide spreadsheet is in the description!! Check it out!! I made it to answer some of the most common questions Brian gets asked! If you have some ideas. Lmk
Awesome video review and content that thing looked absolutely perfect. Don’t know how you keep so much content rolling but I’m super glad you do , thanks.
Damn I got SO happy when you said Dr. Beasley's bc I asked about their resin pro before and rn it's no. 1 on my list of new coatings to try but I would benefit from a vid from you. Either way, their 1201 is pretty revolutionary from what I heard and definitely a good product to showcase! Also great to see the NSP again!!!
My ceramic coating is a few years old so after watching this video I thought I’d give 1201 a try due to ease of application. I have a bottle of Kamikaze Collection Miyabi coat on standby but as this is effectively a ceramic light coating as it’s a 12 month coating I thought what the hell. Nothing to lose. I’ve corrected the vehicle with CarPro ClearCUT and used CarPro Essence as a polish/Primer to help 1201 with longevity so it’ll be interesting to see how long it lasts with regular top ups with CarPro ReLoad 👍🏽🚗
Paint thickness measure please! You always teach us to take care of the clear coat. Starting with a very oxide paint like this one and using a sanding paper, I am very interested to know of how much clear coat this correction cost? Your unwavering student from QUÉBEC, thank you sir
Like night and day 💎You always teach us how to do new things. I like the knowledge you have and the way you always give us a great video.Thanks as always Brian 💎✊
Thank you for this awesome review / how to guide. This is a coating I’ve been considering as a hobbyist. The Mike Phillips Autogeek ads are what first got me interested.
WoW... Only an impressive grade. Expected at least one higher. I don't have the luxury of working in garage so no cure time containers get my attention. Unfortunately i had to cancel a job today since its snowing 😩. Thanks Brian. Stay well and keep these informative videos coming.
Wow~! when i saw that BMW on Facebook earlier, i was sure that you had wet sanded it!! Oxydation!! crazy, looked like a single stage car or boat ! Thats Awesome no cure time!!!!!!!!!! You're the Best!~
Great video Brian as always and very informative, that hood looked trashed before you worked on it. The formula 1201 looks so easy to put on iam going to try it on my car soon, thanks again and stay safe and well 👌👌👌
So do you prefer a ceramic coating over Ceramic spray? It seams a Ceramic spray would be more cost-effective but doesn't last as long. If you're just a weekend detailer
ceramic sprays r definitely easier to use and more of a beginner thing. but they work great while they last, just like spray sealants. if u dont like to devote alot of time to your personal vehicle, then its definitely a good option
You do such awesome work. So professional too. I am having a similar issue, have an Army Jeep that was painted recently and have oxidation coming through. It appears it was a single stage flat olive green paint. What could cause the oxidation look as it has not been in the sun and took a couple of months to show up after being painted.
So after using these primer polishes you can go straight into the coating process? No need to let the primer polish cure? Just wipe off and then coat immediately after?
Oh my word.. now that paint is *hammered* man! Especially given its relatively young age! Where did it live, the Dead Sea? 😁 Paint like that, and the satisfaction of bringing it back to life, is the reason I got hooked on paint correction. The worse it is, the more rewarding the turnaround. Thanks Brian, I'm sure you couldn't wait to get going on that one and had a blast! 👍👌✌
I have an honest question, Im with you 100 percent when it comes to "time is money" I learned paint correction with a 15 es rupes, not the most powerful but it got the job done. After much research i didn't see the value in buying a mark 3 21 for the additional power when i could spend a fraction and go rotary and be even faster on the heavier jobs. Long story short, i learned the rotary and i very rarely find myself looking for the rupes anymore. Can you shed some light as to why you chose to use a dual action when its painfully slower than using a rotary and finishing the light polish at the end with the d.a.? Great info, love your page, just want to know if theres something im missing.
Would like to know if that product last a year? How has it held up after the application? Have been wanting to buy it, but have been wanting to se about it's durability through out the year. I know it depends on climate and other factors, but some products do last. It's all about testing them out. That's what I've been wanting for, to see if it last a year.
@@apexdetail85 thanks for the Brian, my next line of products to use are the Dr beasley range and watching this has just put the cherry on top. Thanks again.
Brian , enjoy all your content I am going to try DA polishing on an Old car I have obviously cleaned & decontaminated just wondered what basic DA you would recommend & products to try , many thanks mark ,, 🇬🇧🍺👍🏻
Another great video Brian. If you use the Dr Beasley’s 95 but can’t get to the coating until the next day what would you advise using to wipe down the vehicle with before applying the coating without harming the 95’s ability to work as the base properly
My FRIEND, donated a 2016 Ram for me to work on, inside and out. Hasn't had anything but abrasive car washes. Inside, mess. I will see what I can do.😎👍
Another excellent job Brian, with excellent explanation along the way! Yours is by far the best detailing channel on You Tube. What good value 2-3" orbital polisher do you recommend for the DIY detailer? I have a Griot's G9 for 5-6" pads, but I am looking for a smaller unit for tight spots. I was looking at the G8, but thought you may have another good value consideration? Thanks.
Hi Brian! For a 39 foot fiberglass boat, which product solution do you recommend? QpOn 2.0 & Angelwax AIO combo or Dr Beasley (Formula 1201 & NSP 150)?
I wonder if that hood has been refinished because its been a long time since I've seen OEM clear-coat oxidize like that, and considering only the hood did it...since the roof or deck lid are not mentioned, I assume they are fine
When I first started watching, I immediately thought about my black 1989 Firebird Formula and then my black 1991 Firebird Formula...both cars had the hoods turn gray/grey (only the teardrop hood buldge though), top of both front and rear bumper covers also turned gray/grey.. due to complete UV INHIBITOR failure in the factory applied clear-coats. I had people tell me the clear-coat failure was my fault, due to lack of maintenance of wax...lol. One dude told me I had no business having a black car and that Meguiar's #26 Yellow Carnuba wax would have prevented the sun from eating the finish....I hadn't 🤣 that hard in a long time, right to his face too! I said, "Sorry chief, these cars are in my climate controlled home garage all week and come out on weekends between late May to early November. Oh, and by the way...#26 will last a couple days in the hot summer sun, being that it's just carnuba...then I proceeded to explain that carnuba is to make the finish look beautiful and offers very little in protection once it begins to melt in the sun".
Thank you for the video Brian! When doing a full correction, going from the compounding step to the polishing step, should you do a panel prep, such as eraser, before going into the polishing or not necessary? Thx
Enjoy the videos!I just bought a 2020 satin steel Sierra 1500 with Denali wheels.This vehicle will not be driven often, mostly on vacation and special nights.In past I’ve done well with duragloss total performance and aqua wax.I like a good bead.What would you suggest I use? Ceramic , synthetic or what?Also what would be best to clean those wheels and protection?Your help would be appreciated thanks
Saw the car on FB earlier, wonderful turnaround, was impressed with the wet sanding first, do you any idea how much clear was removed with sanding and polishing, and the time it took to sand, polish and coat, ( I’m sure you did other decontamination and washing off camera) . Just trying to get an idea of the time. My point is looks like it might doable in one work day.
I recently clayed, hand polished with turtle wax ceramic polish and did layer of turtle wax ceramic spray. Do you think I can put coat of 1201 on top or have to start all over again with a clay and polish?
Hey Apex I am new to the channel, do You have any experience with Duragloss? I seemed to only get a year of beading out of their ceramic but the car is in a harsh environment non garaged
brian do you use car bombs? I've tried extremes but the smell doesnt do it for me, just tried turtle wax-x bomb out and I loved the smell. had another company reach out to me bio-bomb but I wasnt to impressed with there product. I do have a extractor in the shop but ehh that can be time consuming and try to only use it on heavily stained vehicles, as to smoked vehicles. my gm wont let put a ionizer on the company card. also do you have any brands u recommend for under carriage attachments
Brian, I don't know what package the customer asked for and the desired end result, but my question is if you could get even a better finish if you would use a finishing pad and go over the area ones more after the 50/50 pad? I notice you don't and I wonder therefor if its a waste of time since you can't improve the clear any further or that it's not what the customer wants? I hope that makes sense? Excellent video, informative, clear, interesting and satisfying to see that poor clear shine once again :) Take care and can't wait for the next video!
Piglet6256 makes perfect sense. So.. you don’t want to disturb the resin you just payed down with the NSP. Leave that foundation to bond with the coating.
I tried this product a while back and it did NOTHING!! Not sure if it was bad or what, but it was one of the worst products I’ve ever bought. I know what I’m doing. 👍🏼 I’d like to see it on a panel.
It's a joy to watch somebody with your knowledge, skill and passion doing such beautiful work on these cars.
*Brain* ?? 😲😲
😁👍✌
Fantastic video Brian. I've been wanting to try the Dr. Beasley's Formula 1201 for some time now but have been hesitant. I'll be buying some of this tomorrow most likely along with the primer product as well. I also love the fact that you showed that wet sanding can also be done, quite easily, with a DA polisher and some trizact discs with minimal experience as long as you follow some basic steps and take you time doing it and don't go all crazy with it, achieving stunning results and like you said, with much less effort than trying to polish off the dead paint and clogging up you pads with the same dead paint. Really great video and very informative. Thank you sir.
No cure time!!! That is huge ... great video
Thanks for the super important " do not let the product freeze " information for us people up north.
For an easy to apply ceramic coating I'd highly recommend looking at Wolfgangs Uber Ceramic Spray Coating. I applied it a couple weeks ago to a prepped car (2 coats). Extremely easy on and off. Similar experience to Meguiar's Fast Finish. Supposed to last a year as well. We'll see...
I stock pile products... but only those that I know I will use eventually and can last the shelf life. For example, I talk about how I buy 5 years worth of motor oil and filters when on sale. And every drop of oil I've ever bought I've used. Keep up the great videos!
Thanks Brian, I’ve been waiting for you to review this product. I have a client who only wants a 1 year protection and I have this product. I am looking forward to applying it and seeing the results.
your wife is not "your client"...
Apex detail resource guide spreadsheet is in the description!! Check it out!! I made it to answer some of the most common questions Brian gets asked! If you have some ideas. Lmk
Awesome!!! Thank you Hank
❤️❤️❤️
Thanks for compiling it. I did the same thing, but with a wish list lol.
Your welcome
Apocalypse487 lol
Awesome video review and content that thing looked absolutely perfect. Don’t know how you keep so much content rolling but I’m super glad you do , thanks.
Great video Brian, thank you and especially your advice about not making impulsive purchases
Coating aside...that was incredible!! Great work!
I can say one thing for sure,you know how to work your magic!! What an amazing transformation!
Can’t wait for the Test Panel video!
Very interested in this one. Looking forward to the polisher review. Thanks B!
it's a joy watching you work
Awesome info.! Very easy to apply. Good to know about products like this.
Damn I got SO happy when you said Dr. Beasley's bc I asked about their resin pro before and rn it's no. 1 on my list of new coatings to try but I would benefit from a vid from you. Either way, their 1201 is pretty revolutionary from what I heard and definitely a good product to showcase! Also great to see the NSP again!!!
Thank you for taking the time to make such an informative video. Dont mind a longer video at all from you sir.
I have a shine mate 12mm RO and they are really impressive.
My ceramic coating is a few years old so after watching this video I thought I’d give 1201 a try due to ease of application. I have a bottle of Kamikaze Collection Miyabi coat on standby but as this is effectively a ceramic light coating as it’s a 12 month coating I thought what the hell. Nothing to lose. I’ve corrected the vehicle with CarPro ClearCUT and used CarPro Essence as a polish/Primer to help 1201 with longevity so it’ll be interesting to see how long it lasts with regular top ups with CarPro ReLoad 👍🏽🚗
Wow! What a change. How would this product do over an existing ceramic coating? Thanks Brian.
Paint thickness measure please! You always teach us to take care of the clear coat. Starting with a very oxide paint like this one and using a sanding paper, I am very interested to know of how much clear coat this correction cost? Your unwavering student from QUÉBEC, thank you sir
He starts off a basic enhancement at $500+ I’m pretty sure
0.21 miles were remove during the process.
Apex Detail , thank you...I thought that you took more than that.
Like night and day 💎You always teach us how to do new things. I like the knowledge you have and the way you always give us a great video.Thanks as always Brian 💎✊
Beautiful work Brian. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and good advice.
Thank you for this awesome review / how to guide. This is a coating I’ve been considering as a hobbyist. The Mike Phillips Autogeek ads are what first got me interested.
WoW... Only an impressive grade. Expected at least one higher. I don't have the luxury of working in garage so no cure time containers get my attention. Unfortunately i had to cancel a job today since its snowing 😩.
Thanks Brian.
Stay well and keep these informative videos coming.
I love this channel, it is so informative and therapeutic
Nice! Awesome presentation techniques. Love your videos.
Wow. The Doctor has the cure. Nice work
Wow......big difference....looks great
Brian, you often like to do two coats on products, did you do that on this BMW?
Ditto : ? Did you find an answer Thom ?
Excellent review Brian you make it all look easy
Huge difference compared to previous state of the paint, but there is still a lot of hazing post ceramic coating application.
I enjoy learning from you- you are an artist. Keep it up !
Wow~! when i saw that BMW on Facebook earlier, i was sure that you had wet sanded it!! Oxydation!! crazy, looked like a single stage car or boat ! Thats Awesome no cure time!!!!!!!!!! You're the Best!~
So good! Excellent breakdown and education on a new product.
Wow what a transformation!
Good video. In one year how do remove and place another one on
Can there be a durability test?
Great video Brian as always and very informative, that hood looked trashed before you worked on it. The formula 1201 looks so easy to put on iam going to try it on my car soon, thanks again and stay safe and well 👌👌👌
Great video and information. Looks like a great product for home enthusiasts 👍
So do you prefer a ceramic coating over Ceramic spray?
It seams a Ceramic spray would be more cost-effective but doesn't last as long. If you're just a weekend detailer
ceramic sprays r definitely easier to use and more of a beginner thing. but they work great while they last, just like spray sealants. if u dont like to devote alot of time to your personal vehicle, then its definitely a good option
Always great information, I love my 12mm shine mate here in Australia.
If love to see this or any other ceramic coating go up against something like seal and shine
You do such awesome work. So professional too. I am having a similar issue, have an Army Jeep that was painted recently and have oxidation coming through. It appears it was a single stage flat olive green paint. What could cause the oxidation look as it has not been in the sun and took a couple of months to show up after being painted.
Dan H this hood was poorly refinished. Cheap clear.
Would love to see a test panel. Horizontally arranged with NSP alone, NSP + 1201, 1201 alone. Would be an amazing video.
Big fan of all old trucks but love chevy’s. Any details on the truck at your shop in the last vette video?
Incredible improvement! I will try this!👍
How long do you have to neglect the car to get that kind of oxidation? And how come the adjacent panels aren’t bad
Did you test that zero cure time? I mean did some care go immediately to a messy water and it still performs great?
So after using these primer polishes you can go straight into the coating process? No need to let the primer polish cure? Just wipe off and then coat immediately after?
If you could use one and one only paint correction one step polish what would it be?
Does this need to be applied on the car under shelter inside or can it be applied outside?
Oh my word.. now that paint is *hammered* man! Especially given its relatively young age! Where did it live, the Dead Sea? 😁
Paint like that, and the satisfaction of bringing it back to life, is the reason I got hooked on paint correction. The worse it is, the more rewarding the turnaround.
Thanks Brian, I'm sure you couldn't wait to get going on that one and had a blast!
👍👌✌
Wow what a difference
I have an honest question, Im with you 100 percent when it comes to "time is money" I learned paint correction with a 15 es rupes, not the most powerful but it got the job done. After much research i didn't see the value in buying a mark 3 21 for the additional power when i could spend a fraction and go rotary and be even faster on the heavier jobs. Long story short, i learned the rotary and i very rarely find myself looking for the rupes anymore. Can you shed some light as to why you chose to use a dual action when its painfully slower than using a rotary and finishing the light polish at the end with the d.a.? Great info, love your page, just want to know if theres something im missing.
Would like to know if that product last a year? How has it held up after the application? Have been wanting to buy it, but have been wanting to se about it's durability through out the year. I know it depends on climate and other factors, but some products do last. It's all about testing them out. That's what I've been wanting for, to see if it last a year.
Stunning work yet again Brian. What stopped you giving it a higher mark?
Dave Graham I am unsure of durability. I will keep you all posted.
@@apexdetail85 thanks for the Brian, my next line of products to use are the Dr beasley range and watching this has just put the cherry on top. Thanks again.
Where do you get those half moon Microfiber pads.
Brian , enjoy all your content I am going to try DA polishing on an
Old car I have obviously cleaned & decontaminated just wondered what basic
DA you would recommend & products to try , many thanks mark ,, 🇬🇧🍺👍🏻
Hey Brian, what's the water behavior like on this product. Is it like a true ceramic coating?
Which brand of sanding discs where you using Brian?
Showing off them skills and excellent job do the head lights too
Brian another great video ... have u tried looking at The Last Coat Black Ice yet ??? Would love your thoughts on it .... Thanks again!
Dang! Was waiting for you to pull a rabbit out of a hat💫🎩🐇. Beautiful work!💥
Another great video Brian. If you use the Dr Beasley’s 95 but can’t get to the coating until the next day what would you advise using to wipe down the vehicle with before applying the coating without harming the 95’s ability to work as the base properly
have you tried and other pre prep products with this coating?
Is it ok for vinyl strips
Where are you getting your half micro fiber applicator pads?
What do you guys reccomend for hard water spots?
How resistant is this coating against chemicals? This might replace my current coating car pro lite.
Can this be layered?
Hi can you Stack the 1201 and if so the timing t do so.?
as always great video again buddy. what speed setting when u used sanding disk 1?
Hi Brian what speed did you have the polisher on during the wet sanding process?. Amazing turnaround on the hood excellent job as Always 👌
Went to buy one of these 4oz they were sold out. Guaranteed some of us from this channel got some. Im jealous!
you can buy from here as well:
www.autogeek.net/dr-beasleys-1201-coating.html
@@5hift6ear thank you!🤝
Great video sir
My FRIEND, donated a 2016 Ram for me to work on, inside and out. Hasn't had anything but abrasive car washes. Inside, mess. I will see what I can do.😎👍
What speed did you run the 3000 grit sandpaper on the polisher
tom martin 2nd speed setting
Another excellent job Brian, with excellent explanation along the way! Yours is by far the best detailing channel on You Tube. What good value 2-3" orbital polisher do you recommend for the DIY detailer? I have a Griot's G9 for 5-6" pads, but I am looking for a smaller unit for tight spots. I was looking at the G8, but thought you may have another good value consideration? Thanks.
Another great video!!!
In relation to your other video on the meguiars ceramic layering, could you test ceramic liquid, then ceramic wax, and then ceramic detailer
BRIAN WHAT BRAND IS THAT YELLOW CORD REEL YOU HAVE IN YOUR SHOP AND WE'RE DID YOU PURCHASE IT THE ( ELECTRIC ONE ) AS ALWAYS ENJOY YOUR VIDEOS
Hi Brian! For a 39 foot fiberglass boat, which product solution do you recommend? QpOn 2.0 & Angelwax AIO combo or Dr Beasley (Formula 1201 & NSP 150)?
a deep clear mirror shine
Hmmm... I had IGL F4 and Premier on my to buy list, but this may have to replace it.
I use f4 and premier and love it as do my clients
I wonder if that hood has been refinished because its been a long time since I've seen OEM clear-coat oxidize like that, and considering only the hood did it...since the roof or deck lid are not mentioned, I assume they are fine
brianallen0826 yup.. the hood was poorly refinished.
When I first started watching, I immediately thought about my black 1989 Firebird Formula and then my black 1991 Firebird Formula...both cars had the hoods turn gray/grey (only the teardrop hood buldge though), top of both front and rear bumper covers also turned gray/grey.. due to complete UV INHIBITOR failure in the factory applied clear-coats. I had people tell me the clear-coat failure was my fault, due to lack of maintenance of wax...lol. One dude told me I had no business having a black car and that Meguiar's #26 Yellow Carnuba wax would have prevented the sun from eating the finish....I hadn't 🤣 that hard in a long time, right to his face too! I said, "Sorry chief, these cars are in my climate controlled home garage all week and come out on weekends between late May to early November. Oh, and by the way...#26 will last a couple days in the hot summer sun, being that it's just carnuba...then I proceeded to explain that carnuba is to make the finish look beautiful and offers very little in protection once it begins to melt in the sun".
Thank you for the video Brian! When doing a full correction, going from the compounding step to the polishing step, should you do a panel prep, such as eraser, before going into the polishing or not necessary? Thx
Tundra Whisperer yes...I panel prep before each step.
Enjoy the videos!I just bought a 2020 satin steel Sierra 1500 with Denali wheels.This vehicle will not be driven often, mostly on vacation and special nights.In past I’ve done well with duragloss total performance and aqua wax.I like a good bead.What would you suggest I use? Ceramic , synthetic or what?Also what would be best to clean those wheels and protection?Your help would be appreciated thanks
a giant difference how brutal it looks I love it or my god 👍👍👍
Saw the car on FB earlier, wonderful turnaround, was impressed with the wet sanding first, do you any idea how much clear was removed with sanding and polishing, and the time it took to sand, polish and coat, ( I’m sure you did other decontamination and washing off camera) . Just trying to get an idea of the time. My point is looks like it might doable in one work day.
Alan Wallace 0.21 miles were removed... minimal
Tell me more about the buffer you are playing with Bryan.
Video coming later today
I recently clayed, hand polished with turtle wax ceramic polish and did layer of turtle wax ceramic spray. Do you think I can put coat of 1201 on top or have to start all over again with a clay and polish?
Ronald Marconetto you need a
" naked" starting point to bond with the paint. I wouldn't do it.start from scratch.
Brian, was that a FL or some other sunny State BMW? Did you do any thickness measurements?
PAUL F the hood was poorly refinished. I only removed 0.21 mils
@@apexdetail85 I've never seen that technique. DA wet sanding. Thanks for sharing.
Hey Apex I am new to the channel, do You have any experience with Duragloss? I seemed to only get a year of beading out of their ceramic but the car is in a harsh environment non garaged
brian do you use car bombs? I've tried extremes but the smell doesnt do it for me, just tried turtle wax-x bomb out and I loved the smell. had another company reach out to me bio-bomb but I wasnt to impressed with there product. I do have a extractor in the shop but ehh that can be time consuming and try to only use it on heavily stained vehicles, as to smoked vehicles. my gm wont let put a ionizer on the company card. also do you have any brands u recommend for under carriage attachments
Brian, I don't know what package the customer asked for and the desired end result, but my question is if you could get even a better finish if you would use a finishing pad and go over the area ones more after the 50/50 pad? I notice you don't and I wonder therefor if its a waste of time since you can't improve the clear any further or that it's not what the customer wants?
I hope that makes sense?
Excellent video, informative, clear, interesting and satisfying to see that poor clear shine once again :)
Take care and can't wait for the next video!
Piglet6256 makes perfect sense. So.. you don’t want to disturb the resin you just payed down with the NSP. Leave that foundation to bond with the coating.
Great video
How did it get that oxidized? Is it single stage paint or clear coated?
Andys 87 poorly refinished. Cheap clear was used.
Wow what a difference 👍😁
I tried this product a while back and it did NOTHING!! Not sure if it was bad or what, but it was one of the worst products I’ve ever bought. I know what I’m doing. 👍🏼 I’d like to see it on a panel.