If you're looking for more detailed information on how to be better at paint correction and ceramic coating, then check out our new ONLINE training at: www.esotericdetail.com/education
Watched literally eall of polishing videos and by far you are the man . Straight to the point no bullshit talking and bragging and you let your experience talk ! Thank you so much my man.
He didn’t explain that before polishing the car needs to be washed and the clear coat needs to be decontaminated with a clay bar. Experience? I think not.
Chris fix, Darren from auto fetish, and esoteric are the go to guys for car detailing. Chris is an amazing guy with great tips for diy detailers. Darren is professional all about cutting through the nonsense in a verbally thorough way, and this is the best channel that is all about the details.
@@Esotericdetail I’ve been managing touch-less car washes for 13 years with part-time detailing. I’m taking the entrepreneurial jump into the abyss. Thanks the first the motivation.
Im a new detailer. Just returned a month ago from my detailing course in Poland and all he said here is what I learned in Poland. Of course there are exeptions, especially with newer cars that have so many shapes and sharper edges. In order to to a good job, you also need a smaller polisher. Thats a must. Good products is essential. Thanks for this good video
Thank you. Yes, it's a combination of the right products with solid techniques. If you're missing one of those elements, your results will suffer accordingly.
I don’t know how you find the time to do all this great work but I can’t thank you enough for doing so and sharing this plethora of information with professionals and enthusiast alike.
Thanks for that! Yes, video shoots can be quite time consuming for many people within our organization, but they're absolutely imperative! Feedback like this proves why we do this. :)
New to the detailing world but found a peacefulness to this passion. Glad to have found this channel to learn things the correct way and minimizing bad habits right out of the gate
That red C5 Corvette Convertible in the background looks like mine with the exception those taillights have been changed out. I love my Vette... it's peaceful and exciting at the same time. Plus, it's therapeutic considering what happened with me during my deployment last year. 👍🏻🦅
Started detailing in 1999. Started watching detailing videos on TH-cam in 2012. The amount of misinformation on TH-cam is crazy. A big one is the blotting of the pad and product in a 2x2 before engaging the motor. Cheap product has a short working time and good stuff feels endless. Great video.
Anyone who knows anything about detailing and the industry knows that chemical guys is a marketing company more than an actual manufacturer of quality detailing products lol. That's why they're videos and products always target beginners. They don't know any better
This makes total sense. From now on I'm just going to put 3 small dabs of Megs 105 on to my microfiber cutting pad, start her up, put down some pressure and move slowly. I'm almost certain there is no way this can possibly go wrong. Hell, I'm gonna surprise my boss when he's gone this week by making his brand new Audi look even better. Thanks for the tips
Todd is the master. Amazing, succinct , and clear steps. No priming pads, drenching the substrate in product, or using silly 'mowdown' techniques. Just proven things that work. Thanks for keeping things focused and simple.
I couldn't agree more, some channels (all though very popular and considered the best in detailing) saturate detailers with bullshit information. However I have to say that in some cases, using alot more polish can be helpful. Example: I had an old Ford come in for a correction, and it was resprayed poorly, soft clear with tons of "dead" clear. Rotary results were horrible (with different pad and polish combinations) DA results were better but still garbage, untill I drenched the pad in polish, it was simply taking so much garbage clear coat that it overwhelmed the pad and the 3-4 drops of polish that would otherwise suffice. My point is, we're always learning, trial and error etc., and some methods can be very effective in some cases (which rarely come by). Also, you probably already tried the Sonax Cut&Finish product, combined with the sonax yellow or red pad, its a beast of a product.
That was taken way out of context, this video is missing so much information, this pad and polish combo will remove minor defects. This video while very helpful is CLICKBAIT. You don't achieve the level of correction in the thumbnail without a more aggressive pad and and compound combo. The "mowdown" technique you are referring to is from Larry from AMMO NYC, an extremely reputable and experienced detailer. He has made tons of videos on various techniques that aid a detailer in getting the most effective results in the most efficient manner. The mowdown technique is used when there is oxidized or "a layer of dried" paint on the surface that needs to be removed before you can tackle any kind of defect removal. It requires a microfiber pad and a cutting compound (not a polish). If you stuck with a yellow Rupes pad and some Sonax perfect finish it wouldn't do near as good as a job and the pores of the foam pad would quickly get filled causing a detrimental effect to the paint correction process. This is a testament to the statement that each paint is different and it is important for a detailer to know many techniques in order to be prepared for any kind of correction. I'm sure if you watched his full in detail video you would understand but many people are very narrow minded and want one solution to fix all of their problems. The reality of this video is that the pad and polish combo will remove minor to moderate swirls/defects that most weekend warriors will be happy with but a detailer that strives to remove heavy defects and reach perfection will look at this video and laugh. There is no one-shoe-fits-all when it comes to paint correction. There are so many variables that are in play that need to be taken into account. Please keep these thing in mind.
@@sully7898 Having taught professional detailers from around the world for over 8 years in our academy, I can tell you that the principles here hold true regardless of the paint or condition. Once you have a solid system, it is a rarity to need to steer in a different direction. Clearly, a multi-stage correction is needed for really heavy defect removal, however you'd still use the same processes, principles, and learning points as described in this video.
You are a great instructor sir. Keep the good work up. Its an honor to see such skill and talent at work. I'm a beginner at home polisher. Haven't started yet but I plan to. I have all the tools and items. Just looking for courage videos smiles.
Amazing. The company I work for thankfully had the brains to use Rupes and Sonax products. This video was absolutely perfect. I plan on using these techniques to improve my skills not only for personal knowledge but for work and to keep the business rolling.
Wow. Thanks you. As a detailer this is the best, most informative video i have seen on TH-cam. Very basic, broken down and explained for all levels of expertise. You got yourself a new subscriber.
Thanks for the informative video. When you mention your 4.5 polish speed, is that just for this Rupes polisher or all polishers in general? So do all polishers have the same equation to speed?
Todd would off made a good a good school teacher hahaha but luckily we have you teaching us detailing soo much iv learnt from this channel much appreciated keep up the good work
Bloody hell, this is brilliant! If only I had come across Esoteric's videos before I applied the ceramic coating to my 911 :-/ I must've watched a dozen videos from other 'professionals' to prepare me for the daunting task and sure enough I ended up with high spots! After watching the coating demonstration video... which led me here, I could've easily avoided, and easily rectified the mistakes I made. Now they are days old and there to stay.... unless I invest in DA polishing kit! 😀
Very informative and detailed video. I really appreciate the time you spent giving all the tips to properly polish paint. Thanks also for calling out the incorrect information I have been given through other instructional videos. I have subscribed.
Excellent video todd. Whilst i still love rotary and forced rotation tools after 27 years of doing this, you are correct about DA tools being able to correct as quick as a rotary and get great finishes.
I absolutely love your philosophies of paint correction and detailing in general, keep up the great work! Maybe one day I'll set you at one of your academies!
Great tip using the scale to determine the pressure being applied. Have struggled with knowing if I am applying the correct amount of pressure - never thought of that.
Hi Todd, I learn a lot from you and improve my skills as never before! Saying that, I know I will have to pass your Training first ...Is just finding time and money, soon ! In the meantime I will continue to learn and get better 😉 Please keep posting all valuable videos Thank you
Great video like how simple and to the point you made it. Very knowledgeable and good information to put out for those experienced or beginners looking to get into paint correction and detailing.
Thank you, and that's what it's all about. I too was once just starting out, and understand how confusing and expensive it can be. We're trying to simplify people's processes...fewer polishes, fewer pads, etc.
This is by far the most useful presentation I have seen on this topic. Can you please tell me: Where exactly does this video fit in the refinishing process? I.e. I have painted my car basecoat clearcoat and have some orange peel. I can wet sand that out to 4000 grit. Do I jump right into the DA with your compound? How many months should I wait before attempting any kind of polishing? Thank you.
Thank you for these videos. I am about to re coat my car and I found your videos very helpful. I paid for someoine to do a full paint correction on my car but now it still looks good without swirls, but my coating seems to have come to the end of its life. Now I feel confident to do this myself.
Great teaching video. I plan on watching all your videos. I’m so new I’m looking to buy my first polisher so I can go to work on my truck. If you could buy just one RUPES, which one would you suggest?
Can't express enough thanks and gratitude for the products yall sell and the instructional videos yall make. Made me a beast at cleaning my vehicles and soon polishing them. Thanks and keep it up
Question? At what point should I be scraping or changing my pad after hit X number of panels? So I do a panel, do I clean/blow the pad and re-apply, or just re-apply and move on?
Hey Todd, just newly learning to detail. When working on a 1 step polish on a vehicle, how often do you change your pads when using? And how do you clean your pads between passes during use?
No need to clean out pads between passes. Switch out pads often! For one-step, or finish polishing, we will typically go through 6-8 full sized pads, and 4-6 3" pads.
Some of the things he was saying really spoke to me. I just did some small sections on my truck and I most def did not keep my work area small nor did I find the right speed. I did get to where I was going, it just took a lot longer than it would have if I had followed the advice on this video. Follow his steps and you'll be done a lot quicker than you otherwise would have been.
I have been dreaming of my own business of polishing and cleaning and i can't get any info anywhere. Thanks for taking your time to show us ! Any tips on how to get started? Might be a hard one , but yeah.. :-) Thanks again !
Super informative, thank you. Is it possible to remove a slight orange peel from a fresh painted car with compound and polish? 2 coats of clear coat were applied. Thanks in advance and keep it up
One of the best videos I've seen on how to polish. Similar to other videos, the test area is always a perfectly flat panel. Is there anyway you could make a video the explains your approach to "tricky" areas of a car to polish, ie. the concavity behind door handles, tight areas on the front of a car (between chrome accents), etc. Also would be great to know how and when you tape a particular area. Thanks.
Thank you Jason. We reserve the more advanced techniques for our Elite Detailer Academy Attendees, which is 2 full days of training on paint polishing.
Perfect explanation & visuals. Now, what about different pad sizes (smaller 3” pads)? Does that 3 pea-size dot rule still apply? Also, is compressed air into pads ( to knock our residue) still needed even with the “right” products?
When using a 3" pad, we'll reduce the size of the drops. When dealing with foam pads at least, you can blow them out, but it is recommended to switch out to new pads after a couple of panels at most as they will quickly reduce in cut and finish.
This is good! At this present time I'm working with a rotary & i dislike it because it takes way to much time!! I know i cut that time with better tools. Looking to upgrade my tools. Thank you!
do you wet the pad or dry? I have been told its best to use a cleaner bucket, and xfer to a clean water bucket, before, and during the process... what are your thoughts?
Hi - After you polish the first panel section (the roughly 24x18 inch section), do you overlap that first section with the next section, and if so, by how much? Thank you
I wish in my life to learn with all the techniques and knowledge on doing soo. All the things with car care polishing and etc.. Sorry for my bad english merry Christmas all
Hey Todd, I just wanna remove my 2 year coating and clean the paint up a little. And then recoat paint..it’s pretty good condition.. I would like to polish and recoat.. how would you handle this situation? Thanks for your professionalism! Cool shit. 😁🤣✌️ps. I was thinking of using the Avalon King Coating that I purchased sometime ago. But not sure now!
Love this video. Very clear and easy to understand for a beginner like me. One question. What's the recommended machine speed for (1) compounding and (2) polishing stages?
Thank you. On most machines that go up to 6, 4.5 should be your "reference" speed for both actions. While it may change from time to time (slower, not faster), this is where you should be spending most of your time. The difference between compounding and polishing is the pressure, with compounding requiring more.
Love my rupes DA machines, lta75 is mind blowing, but still seem to get faster cut with rotary and twisted wool, cant wait for the new rupes twisted wool pads to get delivered! My flex rotary just seems to have added versatility being able to use a 1-7+ in pad with one machine. Sucks it has to be an either or mentality. Loved the detail academy as well!
Thank you for this amazing video. I've only recently starting using a DA and I've been watching lots of videos to better my technique. Many of the videos I've watched online suggest to only use the weight of the machine, and not to exert any pressure, but it makes more sense to add a little pressure to keep the pad against the clearcoat properly. One quick question, but I've started using TW One & Done, and although I'm fairly happy with the results so far, I was wondering if I would benefit from switching to a soft finishing pad and a little more One & Done to add a deeper glossier finish, or is this just a waste of time on an all-in-one product?
Glad the information has helped. I've never heard of the product you're referring to, so I can't comment on techniques related to it. If you really want to step up your polishing game and knowledge, then be sure to check out our Enthusiast Training Course: esotericdetail.com/education/enthusiast-detailing-course-overview/
Kindly Todd. Do you mind to explain the difference between buffing pads. Microfiber buffing pad vs foam. I mean when to use a microfiber and when to use the same foam you are using in the video? Thanks
MF pads are for compounding / heavy correction in a 2-step process. Foam pads are typically either for one-step applications, or for the finish polishing process in a 2-step process (after using the MF pads).
Hi Todd! I’m hoping you can help me with a problem I am having with holograms. Paint has been in pretty good condition prior to detail with no swirls however my end result end with at least one hologram on the hood and at least one on each side. I am using Sonax perfect finish with a Rupes LHR Mark 3 polisher and Rupes yellow polishing pads. You mention in the video that holograms are usually from poor use of a rotary polisher. How can I be achieving such results from a DA polisher? I usually polish with 2-3 passes. I am polishing at speed 4. Any advice you could provide would be very much appreciated.
If you are closely following this guide, then you are left with 2 obvious potential issues. For one, you could be seeing haze (not holograms), and that could be from the yellow pad being too aggressive for that particular paint (or you simply didn't finish it down well enough). The other could be issues you are running into with your towel(s). Marring from a towel can have a hologram-type look to it in the right lighting.
ESOTERIC Thank you Todd, I appreciate the response. Since my paint is in pretty good condition, I think I will try one of the white Rupes finishing pads and upgrade my microfiber towels. I noticed in the video, you were using the super soft red Esoteric towels to remove polish. I think, I’ll give those a try.
Could you fix an audi paint (hard paint) with a porter cable, mf pad and high cut compound? PS I loved the way you explain everything, direct, nonstop!
Awesome vid Todd.. Quick question: I think I heard yvan say not to spray panel wipe or "alcohol " mix after a heavy polish because it distorts the clear while it's still warm.. Can you clarify on this matter. Please and thank you.
Very useful video. I think I watch it 3 times already. Most problem I have is when polishing non-flat surfaces or close to the edge of panel. Pad just stops turning.
Great video as always Todd. Did you demonstrate 2 full passes with 14lbs of pressure just for one step correction or is this a general rule for any type of polishing? Thanks
The more you're asking out of your pad / process, the more pressure you will need. So with compounding, you'll generally go with more pressure and a smaller work area. With one-step, you'll reduce it a little (14-16lbs), and increase your work area a little. Then with finish polishing, you'll decrease pressure a little more, and increase your work area a little more.
Hi there! Mr Miyagi-I have maybe stupid question-for every polishing machine speed 4 it's the same? In general speaking. I seen Maguier's machine and they have tolerance in explanation from/to for every stage of polishing. btw nice and easy explain. Greetings from UK, Tom.
If you're looking for more detailed information on how to be better at paint correction and ceramic coating, then check out our new ONLINE training at: www.esotericdetail.com/education
Wish I’d have found this guy years ago. He’s so knowledgeable and takes his time explaining.
Watched literally eall of polishing videos and by far you are the man . Straight to the point no bullshit talking and bragging and you let your experience talk ! Thank you so much my man.
Thank you kindly!
I have a digital scale, I appreciate his take on creating muscle memory for a consistent technique
One can tell that this guy is really experienced just by the way he explains everything ! Cheers.
Thank you!
Todd, I heard you’ve done this a time or 2? I want to personally thank you for helping me learn a lot. Seriously thank you sit
He didn’t explain that before polishing the car needs to be washed and the clear coat needs to be decontaminated with a clay bar. Experience? I think not.
Chris fix, Darren from auto fetish, and esoteric are the go to guys for car detailing. Chris is an amazing guy with great tips for diy detailers. Darren is professional all about cutting through the nonsense in a verbally thorough way, and this is the best channel that is all about the details.
Thank You!
@@Esotericdetail I’ve been managing touch-less car washes for 13 years with part-time detailing. I’m taking the entrepreneurial jump into the abyss. Thanks the first the motivation.
@@Vjl5280 Love to hear it! I did the same just over 12 years ago: th-cam.com/video/nGvtVkiqPqY/w-d-xo.html
Im a new detailer. Just returned a month ago from my detailing course in Poland and all he said here is what I learned in Poland.
Of course there are exeptions, especially with newer cars that have so many shapes and sharper edges. In order to to a good job, you also need a smaller polisher. Thats a must.
Good products is essential.
Thanks for this good video
Thank you. Yes, it's a combination of the right products with solid techniques. If you're missing one of those elements, your results will suffer accordingly.
Did you have to go to Poland to learn to Polish?
I don’t know how you find the time to do all this great work but I can’t thank you enough for doing so and sharing this plethora of information with professionals and enthusiast alike.
Thanks for that! Yes, video shoots can be quite time consuming for many people within our organization, but they're absolutely imperative! Feedback like this proves why we do this. :)
Esoteric is really one of the best professional channels to learn about paint correction.
Thank you!
New to the detailing world but found a peacefulness to this passion. Glad to have found this channel to learn things the correct way and minimizing bad habits right out of the gate
Thanks, and welcome to Esoteric!
That red C5 Corvette Convertible in the background looks like mine with the exception those taillights have been changed out. I love my Vette... it's peaceful and exciting at the same time. Plus, it's therapeutic considering what happened with me during my deployment last year. 👍🏻🦅
Excellent and correct presentation of information on the polishing technique👍
Started detailing in 1999. Started watching detailing videos on TH-cam in 2012. The amount of misinformation on TH-cam is crazy. A big one is the blotting of the pad and product in a 2x2 before engaging the motor. Cheap product has a short working time and good stuff feels endless. Great video.
Yep...that one's a waste of time!
The guys at chemical guys need to watch this.
Bahahahahaha. Truth!!! They gotta wheel cleaner for front wheels and back wheels. Helluva business I guess ! Lmao. This made me laugh so loud !
After's still look like the before's 😄🤦🏽♂️
Anyone who knows anything about detailing and the industry knows that chemical guys is a marketing company more than an actual manufacturer of quality detailing products lol. That's why they're videos and products always target beginners. They don't know any better
Lol
😂
This makes total sense. From now on I'm just going to put 3 small dabs of Megs 105 on to my microfiber cutting pad, start her up, put down some pressure and move slowly. I'm almost certain there is no way this can possibly go wrong. Hell, I'm gonna surprise my boss when he's gone this week by making his brand new Audi look even better. Thanks for the tips
The reason for why you wipe up in relatively straight lines @10:11, was worth the price of admission. Subbed.
Glad that you picked up on something!
Todd is the master. Amazing, succinct , and clear steps.
No priming pads, drenching the substrate in product, or using silly 'mowdown' techniques. Just proven things that work. Thanks for keeping things focused and simple.
Thanks for the positive feedback, and you're correct...no unnecessarily complicated or convoluted processes here.
I know who talking about 🤣🤣
I couldn't agree more, some channels (all though very popular and considered the best in detailing) saturate detailers with bullshit information.
However I have to say that in some cases, using alot more polish can be helpful.
Example:
I had an old Ford come in for a correction, and it was resprayed poorly, soft clear with tons of "dead" clear.
Rotary results were horrible (with different pad and polish combinations)
DA results were better but still garbage, untill I drenched the pad in polish, it was simply taking so much garbage clear coat that it overwhelmed the pad and the 3-4 drops of polish that would otherwise suffice.
My point is, we're always learning, trial and error etc., and some methods can be very effective in some cases (which rarely come by).
Also, you probably already tried the Sonax Cut&Finish product, combined with the sonax yellow or red pad, its a beast of a product.
That was taken way out of context, this video is missing so much information, this pad and polish combo will remove minor defects. This video while very helpful is CLICKBAIT. You don't achieve the level of correction in the thumbnail without a more aggressive pad and and compound combo. The "mowdown" technique you are referring to is from Larry from AMMO NYC, an extremely reputable and experienced detailer. He has made tons of videos on various techniques that aid a detailer in getting the most effective results in the most efficient manner. The mowdown technique is used when there is oxidized or "a layer of dried" paint on the surface that needs to be removed before you can tackle any kind of defect removal. It requires a microfiber pad and a cutting compound (not a polish). If you stuck with a yellow Rupes pad and some Sonax perfect finish it wouldn't do near as good as a job and the pores of the foam pad would quickly get filled causing a detrimental effect to the paint correction process. This is a testament to the statement that each paint is
different and it is important for a detailer to know many techniques in order to be prepared for any kind of correction. I'm sure if you watched his full in detail video you would understand but many people are very narrow minded and want one solution to fix all of their problems. The reality of this video is that the pad and polish combo will remove minor to moderate swirls/defects that most weekend warriors will be happy with but a detailer that strives to remove heavy defects and reach perfection will look at this video and laugh. There is no one-shoe-fits-all when it comes to paint correction. There are so many variables that are in play that need to be taken into account. Please keep these thing in mind.
@@sully7898 Having taught professional detailers from around the world for over 8 years in our academy, I can tell you that the principles here hold true regardless of the paint or condition. Once you have a solid system, it is a rarity to need to steer in a different direction. Clearly, a multi-stage correction is needed for really heavy defect removal, however you'd still use the same processes, principles, and learning points as described in this video.
You are a great instructor sir. Keep the good work up. Its an honor to see such skill and talent at work. I'm a beginner at home polisher. Haven't started yet but I plan to. I have all the tools and items. Just looking for courage videos smiles.
The best detailing channel in TH-cam!
Thank you!
Thank you sir..! excellent demonstration..!
Thank you. If you liked this, you'll really like the information we have in our online training courses! www.esotericdetail.com/education
Amazing. The company I work for thankfully had the brains to use Rupes and Sonax products. This video was absolutely perfect. I plan on using these techniques to improve my skills not only for personal knowledge but for work and to keep the business rolling.
I so clearly remember reading your posts about detailing your TL Type S nearly a decade ago.
That's been a long time ago for sure!!
This guy doesn't lie or spare feelings......I love it straight to the point with the facts!!!!
I literally had to stop mid way through the video to say thank you for creating such valuable information. Thank you!! Carry on!!
Thank you!
Wow. Thanks you. As a detailer this is the best, most informative video i have seen on TH-cam. Very basic, broken down and explained for all levels of expertise. You got yourself a new subscriber.
Thank you!!
Your each word shows your life time experience.. Thanks for sharing and teaching us.. With regards 🙏
Thank you kindly!
Thanks for the informative video. When you mention your 4.5 polish speed, is that just for this Rupes polisher or all polishers in general? So do all polishers have the same equation to speed?
Most D/A polishers go up to 6, and although 4.5 won't always be the same OPM, it's within the effective range.
watching my 3rd video of your series. very very useful information...subscribed ! thank you again , sir
Thanks and welcome
Todd would off made a good a good school teacher hahaha but luckily we have you teaching us detailing soo much iv learnt from this channel much appreciated keep up the good work
I appreciate that!
Todd. Great vid! Great results!
Wayyy better then the chemical guys vids I watched...very clear and to the point on the techniques you showed.
Thank you.
Anything's better than chemical guys 🤣 all they say is buy our overpriced products and have a bunch of sluts in their videos 🤣.
Love both of my rupes polishers but nothing is quicker on hard clear than the rotory..thanks for this channel alot of great advice and products
One of the best videos on TH-cam explaining this. Thank you
Thank you...glad you liked it!
I just watched your video about busting the myth of priming the pad; great video! I followed this recommended video from that. Great channel!
Thanks, and glad you liked them. Welcome to the channel!
Bloody hell, this is brilliant! If only I had come across Esoteric's videos before I applied the ceramic coating to my 911 :-/ I must've watched a dozen videos from other 'professionals' to prepare me for the daunting task and sure enough I ended up with high spots! After watching the coating demonstration video... which led me here, I could've easily avoided, and easily rectified the mistakes I made. Now they are days old and there to stay.... unless I invest in DA polishing kit! 😀
Thank you, and glad you enjoyed it. Yes, you need to be careful and check the background / qualifications of those providing "expert advice".
Very informative and detailed video. I really appreciate the time you spent giving all the tips to properly polish paint. Thanks also for calling out the incorrect information I have been given through other instructional videos. I have subscribed.
Thank you for the positive feedback, and for subscribing! We definitely try to take a no-nonsense approach to detailing, and our instructional videos.
Excellent video todd. Whilst i still love rotary and forced rotation tools after 27 years of doing this, you are correct about DA tools being able to correct as quick as a rotary and get great finishes.
Thanks Matthew, and great to hear from you!
@@Esotericdetail cheers todd yeah being a long time. Training a few guys who are the future of the industry here in adelaide
he is fantastic, i was there at the same shop with him very nice person humble and ready to teach.
Thank you!
This guy explains very very well!
I absolutely love your philosophies of paint correction and detailing in general, keep up the great work! Maybe one day I'll set you at one of your academies!
Thank you, and we hope to see you in our class someday.
Great tip using the scale to determine the pressure being applied. Have struggled with knowing if I am applying the correct amount of pressure - never thought of that.
Glad you liked it, Mike!
Just by him explaining the work in a very detailed way, I SUBSCRIBED! Now time to see your other content, thanks!
Hi Todd,
I learn a lot from you and improve my skills as never before!
Saying that, I know I will have to pass your Training first
...Is just finding time and money, soon !
In the meantime I will continue to learn and get better 😉
Please keep posting all valuable videos
Thank you
Just found the channel and liking it all ...
Products plus equipment plus application equals results...
Great video like how simple and to the point you made it. Very knowledgeable and good information to put out for those experienced or beginners looking to get into paint correction and detailing.
Thank you. There's no need to make things more complicated than they need to be, so we prefer to cut through the hype and get to the point.
Great job Todd. Question. What if I used a micro fiber pad with perfect finish. Would the results be the same.
Really appreciate it for sharing. Slowly gathering the tools to start polishing myself. Your tips are saving me a lot of time and 💰
Thank you, and that's what it's all about. I too was once just starting out, and understand how confusing and expensive it can be. We're trying to simplify people's processes...fewer polishes, fewer pads, etc.
This is by far the most useful presentation I have seen on this topic. Can you please tell me: Where exactly does this video fit in the refinishing process? I.e. I have painted my car basecoat clearcoat and have some orange peel. I can wet sand that out to 4000 grit. Do I jump right into the DA with your compound? How many months should I wait before attempting any kind of polishing? Thank you.
How did you end up taking care of the orange peel?
Thank you for these videos. I am about to re coat my car and I found your videos very helpful. I paid for someoine to do a full paint correction on my car but now it still looks good without swirls, but my coating seems to have come to the end of its life. Now I feel confident to do this myself.
I want to pay you for this lesson. This is elite level education.
Just buy some products from our store to help us fund the continued video production and we'll call it even! ;). Thanks for the positive feedback!
Great teaching video. I plan on watching all your videos. I’m so new I’m looking to buy my first polisher so I can go to work on my truck. If you could buy just one RUPES, which one would you suggest?
Thanks, and glad you enjoyed it. The workhorse would be the LHR15: www.esotericcarcare.com/rupes-lhr15-bigfoot-mark-iii/
Can't express enough thanks and gratitude for the products yall sell and the instructional videos yall make. Made me a beast at cleaning my vehicles and soon polishing them. Thanks and keep it up
Thanks for the positive feedback, Aaron, and thanks for watching!!
Question? At what point should I be scraping or changing my pad after hit X number of panels? So I do a panel, do I clean/blow the pad and re-apply, or just re-apply and move on?
The only one of these guys I can listen to for a whole video.
Thank you!
Hey Todd, just newly learning to detail. When working on a 1 step polish on a vehicle, how often do you change your pads when using? And how do you clean your pads between passes during use?
No need to clean out pads between passes. Switch out pads often! For one-step, or finish polishing, we will typically go through 6-8 full sized pads, and 4-6 3" pads.
Always a good watch. Feel like I’m right back there when I took my training class with you. 👍🏻
Thanks Justin! I figured you would recognize a few of these tips since you attended the course.
I enjoyed my learning there as well. Great investment of time
Some of the things he was saying really spoke to me. I just did some small sections on my truck and I most def did not keep my work area small nor did I find the right speed. I did get to where I was going, it just took a lot longer than it would have if I had followed the advice on this video. Follow his steps and you'll be done a lot quicker than you otherwise would have been.
Glad to hear that it worked out well for you...thanks for the feedback!
Great video! No frills. Straight to the point. Thank you! Subscribed!
Thank you...glad you liked it!
just fantastic stuff !! lots of good tips and i am very pleased to see my favourite brand of polishes and compounds etc front and center !!
Thanks, and glad you liked the video!
What a discussion about priming. Even the Rupes channel talks about initial priming of a pad.. Guess it can’t hurt unless you over saturate the pad ?
Here's your discussion on priming, and how / why it's not necessary: th-cam.com/video/DzJJAV-P8Uw/w-d-xo.html
I have been dreaming of my own business of polishing and cleaning and i can't get any info anywhere. Thanks for taking your time to show us ! Any tips on how to get started? Might be a hard one , but yeah.. :-) Thanks again !
Glad to hear that it was helpful. What you need is this: www.esotericcarcare.com/esoteric-elite-detailer-academy-3-day-detailing-training/
Bulleye, straight to the point. Thank you so much!
This guy is thorough. Thanks 👍
Thank you!
I love to see your videos ..... Smart simple and all the info. thnc a milion we love your videos .......
LOL at the warning wording at the start, with the little music playing. Funny
That was Wes, our videographer / editor...we liked it too! :)
Super informative, thank you. Is it possible to remove a slight orange peel from a fresh painted car with compound and polish? 2 coats of clear coat were applied. Thanks in advance and keep it up
One of the best videos I've seen on how to polish. Similar to other videos, the test area is always a perfectly flat panel. Is there anyway you could make a video the explains your approach to "tricky" areas of a car to polish, ie. the concavity behind door handles, tight areas on the front of a car (between chrome accents), etc. Also would be great to know how and when you tape a particular area. Thanks.
Thank you Jason. We reserve the more advanced techniques for our Elite Detailer Academy Attendees, which is 2 full days of training on paint polishing.
Perfect explanation & visuals. Now, what about different pad sizes (smaller 3” pads)? Does that 3 pea-size dot rule still apply? Also, is compressed air into pads ( to knock our residue) still needed even with the “right” products?
When using a 3" pad, we'll reduce the size of the drops. When dealing with foam pads at least, you can blow them out, but it is recommended to switch out to new pads after a couple of panels at most as they will quickly reduce in cut and finish.
ESOTERIC Thanks
What do you recommend for decals such as the large Ford Raptor bed/door/ hood decals? Leave alone? Polish? Special compound?
This is great. Would have been awesome with an overhead camera. Thanks for this.
This is good! At this present time I'm working with a rotary & i dislike it because it takes way to much time!! I know i cut that time with better tools. Looking to upgrade my tools. Thank you!
You can also look into our course offerings that would help you make that transition! www.esotericdetailedu.com
do you wet the pad or dry? I have been told its best to use a cleaner bucket, and xfer to a clean water bucket, before, and during the process... what are your thoughts?
Finally a good video! Great job mate
Hi - After you polish the first panel section (the roughly 24x18 inch section), do you overlap that first section with the next section, and if so, by how much? Thank you
Great video!!! Wow, I learned a lot. Going to use these steps when I polish my car. New sub.
Glad you learned a bit...be sure to check out our vast library of videos as we have plenty more great info available for you.
I wish in my life to learn with all the techniques and knowledge on doing soo.
All the things with car care polishing and etc.. Sorry for my bad english merry Christmas all
Whoever is editing these videos now is doing a killer job. 🤙🏽 can’t wait to take the course soon
Thanks, Kevin. Wes has been doing our videos for the last 4 years now and does a great job indeed!
Hey Todd,
I just wanna remove my 2 year coating and clean the paint up a little. And then recoat paint..it’s pretty good condition.. I would like to polish and recoat.. how would you handle this situation? Thanks for your professionalism! Cool shit. 😁🤣✌️ps. I was thinking of using the Avalon King Coating that I purchased sometime ago. But not sure now!
I was watching his patterns carefully and the camera angle changed. Nice
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Mowdown,priming and watering got me rolling!!I know exactly who those guy(s) are!😄🙈🤣
chemical guys
Ammo
What rpms does it spin at on your 4.5 setting? Around 3500?
Awesome... simple and clear, but great tips, thank you Todd.
Love this video. Very clear and easy to understand for a beginner like me. One question. What's the recommended machine speed for (1) compounding and (2) polishing stages?
Thank you. On most machines that go up to 6, 4.5 should be your "reference" speed for both actions. While it may change from time to time (slower, not faster), this is where you should be spending most of your time. The difference between compounding and polishing is the pressure, with compounding requiring more.
Fantastic video! Cutting out the complicated non essentials! 👌🏻
Thank you! We like to keep it simple, and not overly complicate or convolute processes just to make ourselves look special! :)
@@Esotericdetail I ordered the sonax product and hey presto, results like never before 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Love my rupes DA machines, lta75 is mind blowing, but still seem to get faster cut with rotary and twisted wool, cant wait for the new rupes twisted wool pads to get delivered! My flex rotary just seems to have added versatility being able to use a 1-7+ in pad with one machine. Sucks it has to be an either or mentality. Loved the detail academy as well!
All I use is a rotary I’ve got 1”-7” backing plates and pads for it, love using it
Thank you for this amazing video. I've only recently starting using a DA and I've been watching lots of videos to better my technique. Many of the videos I've watched online suggest to only use the weight of the machine, and not to exert any pressure, but it makes more sense to add a little pressure to keep the pad against the clearcoat properly. One quick question, but I've started using TW One & Done, and although I'm fairly happy with the results so far, I was wondering if I would benefit from switching to a soft finishing pad and a little more One & Done to add a deeper glossier finish, or is this just a waste of time on an all-in-one product?
Glad the information has helped. I've never heard of the product you're referring to, so I can't comment on techniques related to it. If you really want to step up your polishing game and knowledge, then be sure to check out our Enthusiast Training Course: esotericdetail.com/education/enthusiast-detailing-course-overview/
Kindly Todd. Do you mind to explain the difference between buffing pads. Microfiber buffing pad vs foam. I mean when to use a microfiber and when to use the same foam you are using in the video? Thanks
MF pads are for compounding / heavy correction in a 2-step process. Foam pads are typically either for one-step applications, or for the finish polishing process in a 2-step process (after using the MF pads).
Hi Todd! I’m hoping you can help me with a problem I am having with holograms. Paint has been in pretty good condition prior to detail with no swirls however my end result end with at least one hologram on the hood and at least one on each side. I am using Sonax perfect finish with a Rupes LHR Mark 3 polisher and Rupes yellow polishing pads. You mention in the video that holograms are usually from poor use of a rotary polisher. How can I be achieving such results from a DA polisher? I usually polish with 2-3 passes. I am polishing at speed 4. Any advice you could provide would be very much appreciated.
If you are closely following this guide, then you are left with 2 obvious potential issues. For one, you could be seeing haze (not holograms), and that could be from the yellow pad being too aggressive for that particular paint (or you simply didn't finish it down well enough). The other could be issues you are running into with your towel(s). Marring from a towel can have a hologram-type look to it in the right lighting.
ESOTERIC Thank you Todd, I appreciate the response. Since my paint is in pretty good condition, I think I will try one of the white Rupes finishing pads and upgrade my microfiber towels. I noticed in the video, you were using the super soft red Esoteric towels to remove polish. I think, I’ll give those a try.
Could you fix an audi paint (hard paint) with a porter cable, mf pad and high cut compound?
PS I loved the way you explain everything, direct, nonstop!
I did in the "old days", so yes...you can.
Very good demo and info. Thankyou
You are welcome!
New to the channel and it’s very helpful and very very informative.
New sub here, did so instantly after the scale demonstration for pressure.... woahhh
Glad you liked it! We have close to 300 videos, so be sure to browse around a bit. :)
ESOTERIC thank you, can’t wait to binge watch
Awesome vid Todd..
Quick question: I think I heard yvan say not to spray panel wipe or "alcohol " mix after a heavy polish because it distorts the clear while it's still warm..
Can you clarify on this matter.
Please and thank you.
It's not always the case, but if you get marring, allow the panel to cool first to see if that makes a difference.
@@Esotericdetail thx todd
Absolutely great lesson. Now I gotta buy me some Sonax Perfect Finish.
Glad you liked it! www.esotericcarcare.com/sonax-perfect-finish/
Very useful video. I think I watch it 3 times already. Most problem I have is when polishing non-flat surfaces or close to the edge of panel. Pad just stops turning.
It's all in the technique for sure, and something we teach in our Elite Detailer Academy.
Great video as always Todd. Did you demonstrate 2 full passes with 14lbs of pressure just for one step correction or is this a general rule for any type of polishing? Thanks
The more you're asking out of your pad / process, the more pressure you will need. So with compounding, you'll generally go with more pressure and a smaller work area. With one-step, you'll reduce it a little (14-16lbs), and increase your work area a little. Then with finish polishing, you'll decrease pressure a little more, and increase your work area a little more.
Hi there! Mr Miyagi-I have maybe stupid question-for every polishing machine speed 4 it's the same? In general speaking. I seen Maguier's machine and they have tolerance in explanation from/to for every stage of polishing. btw nice and easy explain. Greetings from UK, Tom.
Every machine is different. We're referring to Rupes LHR machines in this video. Around speed 4 is what we recommend.
Have you used/tried Sonax perfect finish also Rupes ono, and Phoenix Fab-ulous with yellow rupes polishing pad,
Earned my sub👍 thank you for the video