AIR FILTER: amzn.to/3914IpF FULL VIDEO: th-cam.com/video/1D2zyVcJSX8/w-d-xo.html This air filter is cool! As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
The fact this ain't a joke and kids can get a fuck off truck is crazy here (UK)there is literally no way any insurance company would insure you on one of those under the age of 25 at least
DO NOT put it in a bucket to clean it. This is why people have all sorts of dirt issues in their intake or on the MAF with reusable filters. If you clean it in a tub/bucket of water, you're getting the clean side dirty with the contaminated water. The best way to clean it is to bring it to a slop sink (not a kitchen sink, you don't want there where your food goes) or a shower (esp. if you have a removable wand, they're cheap to retrofit, look it up) and make sure you spray from the clean side to the dirty side, essentially spraying the dirt out from the back side. NEVER spray dirty side to clean side or submerge in a bucket unless it's a cone filter and you make sure the water doesn't splash over the neck of the filter.
✅🤙 F-150 1998 odometer 100,000 miles I’ve been doing that from start shower wand the K&N reused it 50,000 miles with stock cold air intake manifold wrapped with heat defense tape helps with dropping temperature intake manifold by 30 degrees get quick throttle response from dead start also improve mpg by 3-5
K&N Filters flow more air because they have holes in the filter media. Every time I take one out of the box at a store and hold it up to the light, I can see holes in the filter media.
Never had an issue with my wideband. I’ve heard of people having problems but I feel like it’s hit or miss. Also the air they make are kick ass especially if you get the sock that goes over it.
@@mr.magicman8001 I've had my w/b for prob 7 years and other than the 02 sensor needing to be replaced never had a problem with it. As far as I know there standalones are good as well. Better be for 2k+.
Be careful about all those trick filters. They don't all filter very well. Check your air filter housing on the down stream side and see how much dirt is getting thru. You can switch to a performance filter when you need to. Otherwise OEM.
Dry filters like AEM Dryflow and aFe ProDry actually filter pretty good and much better than oiled gauze and foam filters. They still don't filter as well as OE paper filters, but they have better flow. If you're gonna use an aftermarket filter the dry types really the best choice; otherwise as you say, stick to OEM.
@@wolfrig2000 actually, this came straight from a filter engineer, who at the time was one of my customers. He was showing me videos on his phone, that he took at work, and the data sheets. The only reason the conversation came up, was because I was bitchin' and moanin' about how many check engine lights, and transmission problems I had to deal with over the years, because of those damn aftermarket air filters. And how shitty the aftermarket fuel filters were, with the low micron filtering capability.
@@rolandm9750 Better have some sources to back up this foolish statement, no offense meant to you personally. I have seen K&Ns on a sport quad and the dirt and sand they let in past the filter, into the airbox. I don't know of any filter that filters better than oiled foam, that is what almost all dirtbikes and sport quads use, not sure about sXs's. On extreme dust condition truck/SxS/buggy race vehicles/farm equipment, sometimes a dust seperator is used as part of the intake filtration system. Also, the AEM filter flow improvement is tiny, and irrelevent. Filtration is critical, and for higher airflow, the engineers simply use a larger cross section filter. For street vehicles, i will only use an OE or wix air filter, the cheap brands don't fit/seal well in airboxes and likely filter worse.
Here's the problem the reason why you oil k&n air filters and the other filters is because the oil is what traps the dirt and hangs on to it not the filter media if you have a paper filter the paper has pores that catch the dirt and as they plug up they get worse you take them out they're stopped up you throw them in the trash you put a new one in, Canon filters to get dirty you take them out you hit them with the cleaner you clean them you dry them out you hit them with the real properly not a lot just a little and then you put it back in. The oil collects the dirt the woven cotton gauze filter catches the big pieces screen catches even bigger pieces pay attention to why the filters do what they do now if this company wants to come through and prove to me that it filters down as well as a Canon or a good high quality paper filter I might be interested but just because it says you don't have to oil it does not make it better.
Buy k&n over aem, because AEM is totally not owned by k&n... The aem dryflow membrane is made from a different material and is has a much finer filtration than the oiled filters
That dry flow filter shits on cotton oiled filters in particulate filtering. They are also more durable and harder to damage when cleaning. Another huge bonus is they don't allow oil to be pulled off the filter onto the MAF sensor fouling it's reading. You won't see any performance gains with it, but if you are going to go to an aftermarket style that's the one to use.
Fun fact you’re actually not supposed to blow any air threw it, Just use water and their cleaner and let it dry, if you blast it with air you push the fibers apart and end up damaging the filter and it doesn’t really do its job at that point
I just watch a video just before this one where a guy removes the filter at the car wash, blasts da fuk outta both sides with the pressure washer, then slaps the dripping filter against the wall to remove the water. I hope he doesn't plan on driving home anytime soon...🤦♂️ th-cam.com/users/shortsQyuXyKkhIL8
I'll drive modestly, straight chillin probably half of the time. But I got the car specifically because I knew how masterfully the entire thing was built and that she would handle daily 8k revs, shifting waaay faster than probably any stock car wants you to, and in general basically rally the thing around like the go kart that it is. I wouldn't put a high flow air cleaner on a brand new vehicle that I cared about and wanted to maintain. I have over 10 years experience with K&N air filters, only on high miles hondas that I was pretty much already waiting for something other than a gasket to blow.. Now I take extremely good care of my engines-being a full time mechanic helps. I was planning on rebuilding my rsx, but after blown head gasket around 220k, I overhauled her, spent hours reading data, testing sensors replaced a few, refreshed ground connections, replacing water pump, timing chain, all suspension components with any signs of wear, all engine and tranny mounts, flushed all fluids, replaced worn coolant hoses, rebuilt alternator, modified intake while maintaining stock appearance, after the mod the ecu was continuously going rich on the fuel trims. After several data loggings and reviewing different sensors graphed together I realized that if I launched the car somewhat hard, air to fuel would go lean around 6k rpm just for a few seconds then ecu would force it rich once the fuel pressure could catch up to the airflow. Tested fuel pressure, decided to test oil pressure just because I hadn't in a while. Found inconsistencies in fuel pressure and oil pressure that I didn't like.. So my crazy ass dropped the oil pan, put in a new OE oil pump, all new chain, guides, tensioner and balance shaft. Then I put it an upgraded fuel pump and regulator, ended up testing injector output after seeing a misfire on the scanner. Found that after cleaning, one of my injectors was still having issues. replaced the injector, stayed OE. Fresh coolant, oil and air filter, then once I got all the readiness codes completed I started logging and monitoring all the data again for a while. That's like 2-3 weeks ago, still watching data. Car is running better than it has in the 10 years I've had it.. Was planning on pulling engine and letting the shell rest while I did a full rebuild, but I cant detect any crank bearing issues whatsoever. Runs and shifts so smooth I can't believe its not butter... If it ever develops any knock or possible main bearing noise I will park it and tear her open. I could always find an engine to put in while I do the rebuild, if I don't feel like being eft in the A commuting in my chevy 8 liter v8..
You forgot to mention grabbing the OBD tool and clearing the computer even though there's no fuck colds that way it remaps the field trims and everything and the idle air control valve remaps itself because you are making a change that you're not seeing the fuel efficiency etc that you think you will because you're not clearing and letting the computer remap everything anytime you make a change on intake or exhaust common sense is reset the computer
Don't throw it in a bucket. If the sediment and debris floats around you will dirty the clean, filtered side of your filter. Wash it or blow it from the clean side out towards the dirty side.
These filters are not good for long term use. I had a few of these None Oiled Filters and discovered that the reason K&N oil their filters is because the oil will naturally collect the tiny tiny dust partials that is in the air. How did I discover this? After installing 3 new 50 dollar non oiled filters my fuel efficiency went below 25mpg. I later cleaned my MAF sensor and my efficiency went back to 40+mpg and 2 weeks later back down to 25ish. Cleaned it again and it was back to 40+. Later I changed the filter to a K&N oiled filter and my fuel efficiency went (sadly) down to 30ish mpg but it was at 40+ for a month. Changed to a stock filter and discovered that it stayed above 40+mpg to this day, and I have not changed the filter in 1 year.
@@mfree80286 which in that case you might not get a bad fuel economy based on Air Flow readings but poor engine oil or other factors. Based on my experience with my cars (Which have all had maf sensors) Dirty MAF = shitty mpg
I know reusable filters are seen as a "performance" mod. Yeah, they might. But the real advantage is not wasting $20-30 on a filter every 30k miles and creating a bunch of extra plastic waste. BTW, there are bands other than K&N that are cheaper. Like Vibrant. Even K&N has a buddget dry filter.
I picked one up end of last year just took it off to wash it out. But I found out k&n sells a dry filter cleaner spray, so i picked up a bottle, smack the dirt of the filter, soaked the filter with the cleaner, rinsed it really good and then just let it dry before installing.
You can use a KnN one without filter. Back in the day they came without oil. They only started marketing the oil because they realised once people bought a filter they wouldn’t need anything from them again. So to get repeat sales they introduced oil. In reality you don’t need the oil
As a mechanic when I see these washable filters they’re all filthy…. And no I’m not washing an air filter for you unless you wanna pay .5 at 125an hour to wash your air filter
That's not true if it is able to flow more air than the original, an engine is just a big explosion assisted air pump, it just sucks there in and blows air out so the more air that you can suck in and the more air you can blow out the more power it's going to make
I swapped from my new K&N filter and back to my new OEM filter and the OEM made my truck run much better, I actually gained back some MPG.. K&N was causing it to run rich on my scanner.
Oiled filters mess with maf sensors. We had a 02 ws6 trans am built with 550 plus whp. And everything looked amazing. I popped the ram air cover off and pulled out that shitty k&n filter I washed it 3 times with cleaner and got dirt out until the end of the 3rd rinse. I lightly reoiled it and cleaned the maf sensor. It felt like it picked up 30 hp no shit, when I first took the filter out I couldn't figure out how that LS1 was even running.
You do know those type of filters are designed to be cleaned the more often right it's just that when they are clean and freshly-oiled they tend to be the best type of filter, but they're not designed to just put in there and run the shit out of like a dry filter is
@@diychad7268 yeah I know that's what they are designed for, I used them for a long time on my quads cause they worked so well. I was just saying someone forgot to pull that filter out of trans am to clean it. I'm not saying they are bad filters or systems but so of that oil does pull through and onto your maf sensor or that has been the issue I've ran into. Could just be the cars I work on people are putting to much oil on them.
As long as it filters the dirt before it goes into the engine. You'll know when your MAP sensor starts giving you problems. Good part is you can clean it weekly if you want instead of just replacing the whole filter every 3-6 months
The MAP doesn't really get affected. Usually the MAF does, and people find that out the hard way after their transmission blows up. I always hated having to explain to customers they blew up their transmission from a K and N. They would just look at me funny.
For everyone hating on this “junk” air filter, you might wanna look into AEM and what all they’ve done, and still do. They’re the company who came up with the phrase “cold air intake” in the 90’s and worked with K&N to develop conical filters.
You shouldn’t be putting oil soaked filters in vehicles. The mass air flow sensors n such are not designed for those types of filters Oil soaked filters are meant for off roading. Atv. Chainsaws. Off road vehicles. Why? Bc they trap the dirt a little better
These filters might allow more airflow but I'm pretty sure they allow more junk in and it ends up in your oil. I was going to buy K&N but a Google search made me change my mind.
@@digi3218 no k&n filters do an amazing job they filter out better and they flow more air but you have to clean and real them at a certain interval they are not designed to just put in and run the shit out of
@@diychad7268 idk I saw a few results with people getting their oil tested and it had more sand in it than with the stock filter. I know project farm did a video on air filters I don't know what the results were of the top of my head
@@ags4353 I've pulled the choke on my car as it was running. The tone of the exhaust do not change. It'll miss and sputter, but the overall sound is not going to change because of a slight change in airflow.
These type of filters that advertise “higher horsepower” only do one thing and that’s let more debris into your intake. To let in more air it has to let in more dirt
The factory style does a better job cleaning the air. Only time you need more air flow is if you increase the engine air flow capacity (boosted, higher than factory rpm, larger engine). These style filters just let more dust in.
Yeah I have One of these made By AEM on My Mk4 Supra mine is Grey. Don't ever go to the Autoparts store and ask an employee were to find the dry filter cleaner because they do make it but those dum dums will try to.sell you the oil I had to physically show them that it is a oiless filter because they have never seen one!
Just get the original oem filter your truck is designed to work with a certain amount of air flow it could possibly make your truck run worse . I have learned my lesson on messing with my truck if it anit broke don’t fix it
Had a AEM air Filter like that years ago made by K&N i washed it like i was suposed to and it ended looking like shit i threw it in the Garbage and put a new one.
I found a Sparrow in the Inlet Side of the famous 95 MERC's air box when I removed it to remove the snorkle, install a piece of Clothes Dryer Hose, and get cold air from forward of the engine compartment.
Used K&N filter (oil) for almost 80,000 miles. Never had an issue with the sensor. Cleaned once by my mechanic who said sensor and throttle body was pretty clean already. 2004 Dodge Ram 5.7 hemi. Paper filter 65 mph at 2200 rpm, K&N 1700 rpm…
Only if you put way to much oil on the filter, soak it to the point oils is sucked off it. I see you abide by myths or FEAR False Evidence Appeaing Real...to you.
@@ConnorDonahoe2712 I’ve ran a k&n for a long time and haven’t had a single issue with particulates getting into my engine. Couldn’t use oem as I’m running a modified motorcycle carb I adapted to my engine
When i redid the cylinder heads on my truck there was a bunch of fine dust throughout the intake. Went back to an OEM filter. Now my truck burns oil from AEM’s crappy filter.
The only thing more garbage than K&N filters are generic versions of it. Fun fact K&N filters are actually terrible filters hints the greater air flow.
AIR FILTER: amzn.to/3914IpF
FULL VIDEO: th-cam.com/video/1D2zyVcJSX8/w-d-xo.html
This air filter is cool!
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
You look like zlatan ibrahimovic, he played for La Galaxy, you might be related to him
Im sorry but it is crap
High schoolers when they get their first truck
The fact this ain't a joke and kids can get a fuck off truck is crazy here (UK)there is literally no way any insurance company would insure you on one of those under the age of 25 at least
@@danielbarrett6960 In the UK, you don't own a car, but the UK owns you lol
Better then highschoolers not wanting to learn to work on their cars... nice way to sound like a douche tho 👍
@@shawnhenderson1130 Literally all the comments you've made on this channel are just you being a complete ass but okay 👍
@@danielbarrett6960 yes we know you brits are neutered thank your government
Yo why my mans looks like he about to ask me for a cigarette at the gas station?
Haha
No ragrets naw sayin
He's your "mans"? Weird
2 smokes. Let's go. *snaps fingers*
😂😂😂
DO NOT put it in a bucket to clean it. This is why people have all sorts of dirt issues in their intake or on the MAF with reusable filters. If you clean it in a tub/bucket of water, you're getting the clean side dirty with the contaminated water. The best way to clean it is to bring it to a slop sink (not a kitchen sink, you don't want there where your food goes) or a shower (esp. if you have a removable wand, they're cheap to retrofit, look it up) and make sure you spray from the clean side to the dirty side, essentially spraying the dirt out from the back side. NEVER spray dirty side to clean side or submerge in a bucket unless it's a cone filter and you make sure the water doesn't splash over the neck of the filter.
✅🤙 F-150 1998 odometer 100,000 miles I’ve been doing that from start shower wand the K&N reused it 50,000 miles with stock cold air intake manifold wrapped with heat defense tape helps with dropping temperature intake manifold by 30 degrees get quick throttle response from dead start also improve mpg by 3-5
Or just hose it off
K&N have a non oiled filter also. People didn't like spraying oil just to "recharge" their air filter.
Yeah but little did they fuckin know it’s trapping finer dust particles
K&N has been around since the 1960's..All my vehicles since 1977 have used K&N Filters..👍
K&N Filters flow more air because they have holes in the filter media. Every time I take one out of the box at a store and hold it up to the light, I can see holes in the filter media.
@@deerinmyyard8430thats why its oiled👍👍👍
@@sgt.vernex6378Baaaaaaaaaaa sheep
they’re garbage
Couldn’t clean mine properly until his bucket method suggestion. 👍
The bucket helps big time!
AEM makes good products.
Other then their widebands, on my second kit.
@@mr.magicman8001mine came pre broken💀 they hooked it up real quick with the warranty
@@yusufmohamed5635 yup. Got mine in a few days
Never had an issue with my wideband. I’ve heard of people having problems but I feel like it’s hit or miss. Also the air they make are kick ass especially if you get the sock that goes over it.
@@mr.magicman8001 I've had my w/b for prob 7 years and other than the 02 sensor needing to be replaced never had a problem with it. As far as I know there standalones are good as well. Better be for 2k+.
I run clean them a few times and then replace. Beats hunting down a fliter every time it gets dirty..
Be careful about all those trick filters. They don't all filter very well. Check your air filter housing on the down stream side and see how much dirt is getting thru. You can switch to a performance filter when you need to. Otherwise OEM.
Dry filters like AEM Dryflow and aFe ProDry actually filter pretty good and much better than oiled gauze and foam filters. They still don't filter as well as OE paper filters, but they have better flow. If you're gonna use an aftermarket filter the dry types really the best choice; otherwise as you say, stick to OEM.
One of my customers was a filter engineer. He said the same thing. Flows better because it catches less dirt.
@@VitoVeccia of course a competitor would say their competitions product is bad, they want you to trust/but only theirs.
@@wolfrig2000 actually, this came straight from a filter engineer, who at the time was one of my customers. He was showing me videos on his phone, that he took at work, and the data sheets. The only reason the conversation came up, was because I was bitchin' and moanin' about how many check engine lights, and transmission problems I had to deal with over the years, because of those damn aftermarket air filters. And how shitty the aftermarket fuel filters were, with the low micron filtering capability.
@@rolandm9750 Better have some sources to back up this foolish statement, no offense meant to you personally. I have seen K&Ns on a sport quad and the dirt and sand they let in past the filter, into the airbox. I don't know of any filter that filters better than oiled foam, that is what almost all dirtbikes and sport quads use, not sure about sXs's. On extreme dust condition truck/SxS/buggy race vehicles/farm equipment, sometimes a dust seperator is used as part of the intake filtration system. Also, the AEM filter flow improvement is tiny, and irrelevent. Filtration is critical, and for higher airflow, the engineers simply use a larger cross section filter. For street vehicles, i will only use an OE or wix air filter, the cheap brands don't fit/seal well in airboxes and likely filter worse.
Here's the problem the reason why you oil k&n air filters and the other filters is because the oil is what traps the dirt and hangs on to it not the filter media if you have a paper filter the paper has pores that catch the dirt and as they plug up they get worse you take them out they're stopped up you throw them in the trash you put a new one in, Canon filters to get dirty you take them out you hit them with the cleaner you clean them you dry them out you hit them with the real properly not a lot just a little and then you put it back in. The oil collects the dirt the woven cotton gauze filter catches the big pieces screen catches even bigger pieces pay attention to why the filters do what they do now if this company wants to come through and prove to me that it filters down as well as a Canon or a good high quality paper filter I might be interested but just because it says you don't have to oil it does not make it better.
Someone bump this to the top before he messes up his cylinder walls
Buy k&n over aem, because AEM is totally not owned by k&n...
The aem dryflow membrane is made from a different material and is has a much finer filtration than the oiled filters
That dry flow filter shits on cotton oiled filters in particulate filtering. They are also more durable and harder to damage when cleaning. Another huge bonus is they don't allow oil to be pulled off the filter onto the MAF sensor fouling it's reading.
You won't see any performance gains with it, but if you are going to go to an aftermarket style that's the one to use.
th-cam.com/video/sJ3L-E-ufYo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=78DAa3Qf8QdqNUYh
@@jeepmanxjjust say you don’t know how to simply oil a fuckin filter literally passing on your lack of responsibility on someone’s else ridiculous
Straight from AEM
Do not used compressed air either as it will damage the filter. We suggest using the AEM Synthetic Air Filter Cleaner only.
nah. I'll just keep using the paper.
We???? Who the hell is we, do you have a turd in your pocket?
@@robertmaybeth3434 using the paper what
@@diychad7268paper filter
Be sure to keep your filters spotlessly clean all the time.
It's the best way to dust out some rings and valves.
Great point!
This is all mods at car shows now 🤣
Fun fact you’re actually not supposed to blow any air threw it, Just use water and their cleaner and let it dry, if you blast it with air you push the fibers apart and end up damaging the filter and it doesn’t really do its job at that point
I just watch a video just before this one where a guy removes the filter at the car wash, blasts da fuk outta both sides with the pressure washer, then slaps the dripping filter against the wall to remove the water. I hope he doesn't plan on driving home anytime soon...🤦♂️ th-cam.com/users/shortsQyuXyKkhIL8
I'll drive modestly, straight chillin probably half of the time. But I got the car specifically because I knew how masterfully the entire thing was built and that she would handle daily 8k revs, shifting waaay faster than probably any stock car wants you to, and in general basically rally the thing around like the go kart that it is. I wouldn't put a high flow air cleaner on a brand new vehicle that I cared about and wanted to maintain. I have over 10 years experience with K&N air filters, only on high miles hondas that I was pretty much already waiting for something other than a gasket to blow.. Now I take extremely good care of my engines-being a full time mechanic helps. I was planning on rebuilding my rsx, but after blown head gasket around 220k, I overhauled her, spent hours reading data, testing sensors replaced a few, refreshed ground connections, replacing water pump, timing chain, all suspension components with any signs of wear, all engine and tranny mounts, flushed all fluids, replaced worn coolant hoses, rebuilt alternator, modified intake while maintaining stock appearance, after the mod the ecu was continuously going rich on the fuel trims. After several data loggings and reviewing different sensors graphed together I realized that if I launched the car somewhat hard, air to fuel would go lean around 6k rpm just for a few seconds then ecu would force it rich once the fuel pressure could catch up to the airflow. Tested fuel pressure, decided to test oil pressure just because I hadn't in a while. Found inconsistencies in fuel pressure and oil pressure that I didn't like.. So my crazy ass dropped the oil pan, put in a new OE oil pump, all new chain, guides, tensioner and balance shaft. Then I put it an upgraded fuel pump and regulator, ended up testing injector output after seeing a misfire on the scanner. Found that after cleaning, one of my injectors was still having issues. replaced the injector, stayed OE. Fresh coolant, oil and air filter, then once I got all the readiness codes completed I started logging and monitoring all the data again for a while. That's like 2-3 weeks ago, still watching data. Car is running better than it has in the 10 years I've had it.. Was planning on pulling engine and letting the shell rest while I did a full rebuild, but I cant detect any crank bearing issues whatsoever. Runs and shifts so smooth I can't believe its not butter... If it ever develops any knock or possible main bearing noise I will park it and tear her open. I could always find an engine to put in while I do the rebuild, if I don't feel like being eft in the A commuting in my chevy 8 liter v8..
AEM developed some of its Dryflow Air Filters in collaboration with K&N Engineering
I don't doubt that.
You forgot to mention grabbing the OBD tool and clearing the computer even though there's no fuck colds that way it remaps the field trims and everything and the idle air control valve remaps itself because you are making a change that you're not seeing the fuel efficiency etc that you think you will because you're not clearing and letting the computer remap everything anytime you make a change on intake or exhaust common sense is reset the computer
AEM filters are also pretty good
Dry filters, filter better than oil/cotton ones, but they don't flow as well. I prefer the dry ones and buying the biggest one that fits.
Amazing difference! You will
Get more flow if you hit it with a blow nozzle at 120psi and separate the fibers
More to the point, was that a dust buster? I have not seen one of those since the early 90s
Haha
I was gonna say the same thing... my grandparents had one up till the early 2000s lol
Don't throw it in a bucket. If the sediment and debris floats around you will dirty the clean, filtered side of your filter. Wash it or blow it from the clean side out towards the dirty side.
Or just don't completely submerge it to where the dirty water can flow into the clean side/inside. I soak mine all the time
@@TTime685 good point
@@TTime685and the point of that is? Just to saturate your filter? Youre not actuslly cleaning it at all by just half soaking it.
It actually makes the car sound louder and smoother?! Very nice.
It does a little bit.
I’ve seen these. People in the reviews say they deteriorate and particles if the filter get into engine. Just get a good paper filter.
I haven't had any problems.
@MattsShop probably because it's rather new. It takes time before it starts to deteriorate
These filters are not good for long term use. I had a few of these None Oiled Filters and discovered that the reason K&N oil their filters is because the oil will naturally collect the tiny tiny dust partials that is in the air. How did I discover this? After installing 3 new 50 dollar non oiled filters my fuel efficiency went below 25mpg. I later cleaned my MAF sensor and my efficiency went back to 40+mpg and 2 weeks later back down to 25ish. Cleaned it again and it was back to 40+. Later I changed the filter to a K&N oiled filter and my fuel efficiency went (sadly) down to 30ish mpg but it was at 40+ for a month. Changed to a stock filter and discovered that it stayed above 40+mpg to this day, and I have not changed the filter in 1 year.
Been using oiled filters for 250,000 miles now, though it's a small engine and MAP (no MAF to screw up by over-oiling the filter).
@@mfree80286 which in that case you might not get a bad fuel economy based on Air Flow readings but poor engine oil or other factors. Based on my experience with my cars (Which have all had maf sensors) Dirty MAF = shitty mpg
@@TheOptionalKind Not saying it doesn't cause bad mileage.... just saying not everything is a MAF mapped setup with that problem.
That usually fall apart after a year unless it’s a brand name .
I know reusable filters are seen as a "performance" mod. Yeah, they might. But the real advantage is not wasting $20-30 on a filter every 30k miles and creating a bunch of extra plastic waste. BTW, there are bands other than K&N that are cheaper. Like Vibrant. Even K&N has a buddget dry filter.
I picked one up end of last year just took it off to wash it out. But I found out k&n sells a dry filter cleaner spray, so i picked up a bottle, smack the dirt of the filter, soaked the filter with the cleaner, rinsed it really good and then just let it dry before installing.
You can use a KnN one without filter. Back in the day they came without oil. They only started marketing the oil because they realised once people bought a filter they wouldn’t need anything from them again. So to get repeat sales they introduced oil. In reality you don’t need the oil
AEM is better than K&N. You get the airflow plus it actually stops the dirt.
Yea, and no oil!
Send this to Project Farm. Watch his K&N comparison before buying.
Haha
@@MattsShop haha?
What was the point in showing the tachometer and exhaust sound?
Why did you hide the brand name of the filter, it's AEM Dryflow.
To show before and after. I didn't hide anything
As a mechanic when I see these washable filters they’re all filthy…. And no I’m not washing an air filter for you unless you wanna pay .5 at 125an hour to wash your air filter
What about fine dust...
That's the whole purpose of the oil on the K and N.
That filter did absolutely nothing for your vehicle's performance just so we all know
That's not true if it is able to flow more air than the original, an engine is just a big explosion assisted air pump, it just sucks there in and blows air out so the more air that you can suck in and the more air you can blow out the more power it's going to make
@@diychad7268 I know how an engine works I just like to bust balls...
If it's a stock motor it is probably not possessing more air than the stock filter can supply
@@james10739 you need to watch some videos, before saying bs.
@@MWAclanGaming and you probably need to stop watching so many videos
Like k&n that oil the filters can mess with your MAF sensors. It's better to have a dry filter.
😂 looks like an AEM air filter from the brand on the box that you didn’t want to show.
So secretive 😂 and such a breakthrough discovery
I swapped from my new K&N filter and back to my new OEM filter and the OEM made my truck run much better, I actually gained back some MPG.. K&N was causing it to run rich on my scanner.
Yep, K&N used to be a great brand, but now their quality has gone down a lot.
Bros a mechanic fixed the air filter with a knock off kn. Good job 😂
K&N owns AEM.
Oiled filters mess with maf sensors. We had a 02 ws6 trans am built with 550 plus whp. And everything looked amazing. I popped the ram air cover off and pulled out that shitty k&n filter I washed it 3 times with cleaner and got dirt out until the end of the 3rd rinse. I lightly reoiled it and cleaned the maf sensor. It felt like it picked up 30 hp no shit, when I first took the filter out I couldn't figure out how that LS1 was even running.
The oil messes up MAF sensors for sure.
You do know those type of filters are designed to be cleaned the more often right it's just that when they are clean and freshly-oiled they tend to be the best type of filter, but they're not designed to just put in there and run the shit out of like a dry filter is
@@diychad7268 yeah I know that's what they are designed for, I used them for a long time on my quads cause they worked so well. I was just saying someone forgot to pull that filter out of trans am to clean it. I'm not saying they are bad filters or systems but so of that oil does pull through and onto your maf sensor or that has been the issue I've ran into. Could just be the cars I work on people are putting to much oil on them.
Cheers mate , good Vid 👌
Glad you enjoyed it
As long as it filters the dirt before it goes into the engine. You'll know when your MAP sensor starts giving you problems.
Good part is you can clean it weekly if you want instead of just replacing the whole filter every 3-6 months
The MAP doesn't really get affected. Usually the MAF does, and people find that out the hard way after their transmission blows up. I always hated having to explain to customers they blew up their transmission from a K and N. They would just look at me funny.
For everyone hating on this “junk” air filter, you might wanna look into AEM and what all they’ve done, and still do. They’re the company who came up with the phrase “cold air intake” in the 90’s and worked with K&N to develop conical filters.
K&N makes dry filters too
The filters will get too brittle and dry. Use the oil one or regular single use.
Wow! No difference at all!
It ran better!
Filter oil should never be used on a fuel injected engine.
This is dry!
Yeah I call bs ...he didn't even show if it worked right ....longevity bro show it since that's kinda your argument
If you think about it, the wet filters play havoc on your mass air flow sensor. Better to use a dry filter
Yup
He just spent his stimulus money
Lol
You shouldn’t be putting oil soaked filters in vehicles. The mass air flow sensors n such are not designed for those types of filters
Oil soaked filters are meant for off roading. Atv. Chainsaws. Off road vehicles. Why? Bc they trap the dirt a little better
Why do people want reusable filters? The interval change is so far apart on them and they're really kind of inexpensive
Easier and cheaper than always ordering new.
These filters might allow more airflow but I'm pretty sure they allow more junk in and it ends up in your oil. I was going to buy K&N but a Google search made me change my mind.
@@digi3218 no k&n filters do an amazing job they filter out better and they flow more air but you have to clean and real them at a certain interval they are not designed to just put in and run the shit out of
@@diychad7268 idk I saw a few results with people getting their oil tested and it had more sand in it than with the stock filter.
I know project farm did a video on air filters I don't know what the results were of the top of my head
@@digi3218prob had more sand in it bc they weren’t cleaning it, been using a k&n air filter for years never had a issue
I've never heard an air filter change the sound of the exhaust, before.
Bc it has more airflow same thing if you put a cold air intake on it will change the sound bc of the airflow
@@ags4353 I've pulled the choke on my car as it was running. The tone of the exhaust do not change. It'll miss and sputter, but the overall sound is not going to change because of a slight change in airflow.
I wonder, does "peace" means it work, or it doesn't work? or something else? maybe nothing!
He just gained 10hp.
These type of filters that advertise “higher horsepower” only do one thing and that’s let more debris into your intake. To let in more air it has to let in more dirt
AEM & K&N are the same company
I used same filter for intake air for my crystal making operation.😊
The factory style does a better job cleaning the air. Only time you need more air flow is if you increase the engine air flow capacity (boosted, higher than factory rpm, larger engine). These style filters just let more dust in.
AEM is better than K&N in my opinion but to just clean it use a air hose nothing less or more 🤙🏼
People where putting to much oil on them and it was causing problems with turbo chargers and gumming up other stuff
Blowing air through it! That’s the exact thing they tell you not do.
After how many kilometers should the K&N filter be cleaned?
Why not put before and after 'back to back'?
Yeah I have One of these made By AEM on My Mk4 Supra mine is Grey. Don't ever go to the Autoparts store and ask an employee were to find the dry filter cleaner because they do make it but those dum dums will try to.sell you the oil I had to physically show them that it is a oiless filter because they have never seen one!
Haha I believe this 100%
That doesn't surprise me in the least.
Bro make a shirt that says “lllaaaaaatttteeerrrr” lol
Just get the original oem filter your truck is designed to work with a certain amount of air flow it could possibly make your truck run worse . I have learned my lesson on messing with my truck if it anit broke don’t fix it
Had a AEM air Filter like that years ago made by K&N i washed it like i was suposed to and it ended looking like shit i threw it in the Garbage and put a new one.
k&n makes them that way now too
Lets in a ton of air but also a ton of dust into the engine. Stick to a good oem air filter
I wouldn't trust it without seeing some testing that compares it to other quality brands.
Like all air filters they keep out big sticks and opposums!
I found a Sparrow in the Inlet Side of the famous 95 MERC's air box when I removed it to remove the snorkle, install a piece of Clothes Dryer Hose, and get cold air from forward of the engine compartment.
Adds “Built not bought” sticker.
Haha, assembled not bought.
That's funny
As a retired mechanic I would not trust it
First of all...Get Rid Of That AIR BOX!!..That's where you get Air Flow Resistance...
K&N oil filters are a good way to ruin your MAF sensor as the hot wire slowly gets coated with oil that burn off leaving ridue ruining sensor.
Used K&N filter (oil) for almost 80,000 miles. Never had an issue with the sensor. Cleaned once by my mechanic who said sensor and throttle body was pretty clean already. 2004 Dodge Ram 5.7 hemi. Paper filter 65 mph at 2200 rpm, K&N 1700 rpm…
Only if you put way to much oil on the filter, soak it to the point oils is sucked off it.
I see you abide by myths or FEAR False Evidence Appeaing Real...to you.
I the round k and n filter on mine.
Aem is also made by k&n
I used one of these and it passed a bunch of dust into my intake
How exactly do you know that
@@diychad7268 there was dust in his intake
Had a K&N one and I never had to clean it... Because it never got dirty, threw that shit in the trash and got an OEM filter
@@ConnorDonahoe2712 I’ve ran a k&n for a long time and haven’t had a single issue with particulates getting into my engine. Couldn’t use oem as I’m running a modified motorcycle carb I adapted to my engine
When i redid the cylinder heads on my truck there was a bunch of fine dust throughout the intake. Went back to an OEM filter. Now my truck burns oil from AEM’s crappy filter.
Way better to use oem filters , but that’s just me
Paper filters suck
Nice.
Thanks!
.... oil on the filter? Wtf! 😂dont do that. Ever.
I just got a aem dry flow fikter but mine came oiled is that nornal?
Y’all are haters this man knows these cat eyes like the back of his hand
Hey on your chevy have the MPG you can see if this increase over time 🤙🏼 and do a follow up on it
I'm pretty sure it helped MPG a little. It flows way better than the old paper one for sure.
Do u still have it on?
Yes!
Lots of counterfeits on Amazon. Also, K&N sucks
Can not take any one seriously who wears a cap back to front.
Sounds like cap.
It sounds exactly the same
so is that a yay or nay ? 🤔
So how do you like it so far, thanks
Working great for like 2 years now.
Wait, why would you put oil on an air filter ? wtf ?
So what's your point ?
The only thing more garbage than K&N filters are generic versions of it. Fun fact K&N filters are actually terrible filters hints the greater air flow.
don’t blow air
Don't just wash off with a hose. Buy the actual cleaner made for cleaning them.
I swear I thought I heard oil filter
It’s an aem filter
Yea!
Drove my Chevy to the levee but the levee was dry