I run a K&N filter, but I don't believe it offers any improvement over an OEM filter - I do it because throwing away an OEM filter every 30,000km seems less environmentally friendly than using the same filter for the life of the vehicle.
I have been using K&N filters for more than 25 years, having sold 1 car with 212,000 miles on it (Lexus) and did not use any oil between 6,000 mile oil changes without a single problem with engine wear, MAF sensors, and, cleaning the K&N air filter about every 30,000 miles. I agree that if one drives in a very dusty environment, this might cause increased engine wear, but in city driving which is mostly what I do, there has never been a problems, and the cost of paper replacement filters on my cars, were many multiples of the cost of one K&N filter and it's cleaning kit, which has lasted now about 14 years (the kit). These are in my opinion, valid points to consider when using these kinds of filters. The horsepower increases very from none to well documented increases depending on the motor they are placed on.
@@Phone-sh7jg No problems. My truck I had the top end redone at 240,000km (because I wanted more power and had a cam installed). You could still see the cross hatching on the cylinders. My truck has 300,000km now and that filter was installed before the cam upgrade so it probably has 70,000km on it. I just wash it whenever it looks really dirty and the engine oil gets changed every 5,000km with synthetic motor oil and K&N oil filters with a Filtermag and the drain plug is magnetic.
Hit the nail in the head, I live on a dirt road, and I’m much more concerned about filtration and longevity than performance, thanks for the info and I agree with your decision.
Simply don't fucking oil it yourself. Just throw it out and buy a new one. Besides it's fine for 100k. After that sell your dam car 😂 Problem solved. 😂
this guy is right on the money with the maf. replaced my air filter to the kn and turned out my car couldn't pass emission and was throwing p0172 codes. had to replace maf sensor yesterday. cleaned the air filter and will switch back to paper next week when I have time
Cleaning the MAF sensor (with CRC Mass air flow sensor cleaner) would have stopped the problem and clearing the code would have made your car pass the test.
I think this strictly depends on driving habits. If you’re never around major dust, etc. (Farm or dirt roads), K & N works perfectly fine. I have a ‘23 Equinox that was getting 29.2 mpg with oem paper filter. After 3 weeks of K & N in normal clean driving conditions I’m at 31.6 mpg . Keep it clean and oil lightly and the proof is in the pudding.
229,000 miles on my TRD Tacoma that has been on a lot of dirt roads, off road trails, and flat out mud pits lol K&N has been in it since it's first oil change ... So far so good 🤞🤞👌👌 But this post is interesting to be and has me considering which to buy for our Forester right now
Can we run a test where the air flow is not constant? Project Farm and the Nico Club are constant air flow tests (unless I am missing something and excluding the Restriction to Flow test). The K & N advocates seem to claim the fibers are moving as air is not at a constant speed in an engine intake. Particles hit the moving fibers in several layers and are caught by the oil. This seems to make sense as one is accelerating etc. I recall the MAP sensor sending in all different types of values. Interesting that K & N may be able to handle more dirt than paper where gaps are immediately plugged vs fibers that can move to allow air to pass through (again with varying flow). The scale decision on the graphs in the Nico Club are also odd. It's a 3% difference at constant speed between the top and lowest performer in filter efficiency. This would be barely discernible if the graph was true to scale.
Sound like some K&N propaganda nonsense. If it filters it filters. They do not. I switched after watching that test. No way that "pulsing" air is going to drop the ammount of particles it let's thru by ten fold which would barely get it to same level As the cheapest filter
You make valid points. Thanks for helping me make the decision to stay stock. Seems like there are many more cons, than pros. Very informative video. Respect brother. ✊🏽
I'm running a KN air filter but my engine is tuned and my exhaust has been modified. I paid like $72 CAD for the KN filter but I keep a OEM filter and a can of MAF sensor cleaner in the car in the event of MAF sensor being soiled by the KN filter. Also a dirty air filter provide better filtration than a clean one but a clean filter is less restrictive than a dirty one. Lasty if your MAF gets dirty and the engine runs rough etc just clean it, there's absolutely no need to replace it in fact the MAF sensor will last entire lifespan of the engine.
I use K&N filter for all my cars more than 7 years and I have never had any issue. I have noticed more horse power and better millage on my cars after replacing filters. I always clean my filters after 2 to 3 oil changes as I have double filters for each car, I tend to wash them and oil it and secure them with plastic to keep dust away from them so I can use next time I need them.
I also do the alternating filter thing. In my calculation, putting in the clean one then cleaning and storing the dirty one was more manageable yet still much cheaper than paper filters that just end up in the dump after a few thousand miles.
Here is the deal. K&N tested on my BMW with a NA i6 engine. - Smoother idle - +10nm of torque in the low RPMs - Better induction sound - +5hp at the Mid/High range - Better breathing when engine is on load. - Better linear acceleration - K&N must be used as a replacement to the stock air-filter enclosed in its OE housing. - The oil change interval must be reduced to 3/4K miles max. - If you live in a very dusty area. Cleaning the filter should take place every 15.000 miles or so, the proper way. - K&N does not play well with Turbo engines unless the DME is remapped to the new air flow.
I don’t understand. If you had a K&N filter for 5 years and ENJOY the throttle response/mileage, why not just buy a new K&N filter and have it last you another few years or swapping it out every 2-3 years for a brand new one to keep the throttle response/mileage?
Watch project farms video test. I used to believe they were good too. They are horrible at filtering. Not worth the unnoticable performance gain regardless of cost or change out frequency
did you even watch the video? he clearly explained that the minimal horsepower gains didn't outweigh the amount of dirt that the K&N lets into the engine
because rich people don't care about longevity they'll replace their car in 1-2 years when the next trendy thing comes out instead of keeping it for 10 years
i picked up a 2022 TUNDRA k&N air filter and am getting lower MPG crazy..it just sounds slightly better when i punch on the accelerator..changing back to OEM
K&N are great air filters. The key is to use them properly. In the United States, there is a very, very small percentage of the driving population that have relevance in stating the "harsh" air conditions would prevent them from owning a K&N because they let "too" much particulates through.
I hate replacing a filter every 7k miles so I ended up getting a K&N filter for the stock engine air intake box and I was so glad I did. Can't say I noticed a difference in power though.
I use a aFe dry air filter with stock oem airbox. It doesnt need to be oiled and just needed to be cleaned with a air filter cleaner and some water. I keep my oem air filter while the filter dries
I have 2007 Ford E-350 Clubwagon. Using the K&N filter flow box on the parts counter the OEM filter flowed better then the K&N. My guess is that the Stock filter was a little bigger and had more pleats.
I ditched my k&n air filter on my sport bike (carb) it was letting too much air into the air box and messed with the air/fuel mixture. maybe if i jetted the carbs and adjusted mixture screws it would be ok.
I’ve always been skeptical of the K&N filters, and other brand filters that require oil. Personally I would recommend either the AFE Pro Dry S filter, or the AEM DryFlow filter. I have the AFE intake with the dry filter in my 2006 4Runner, and my friends and family all have a mix of AFE and AEM dry filters in their vehicles. Never went back to the paper filters, and never had to worry about adding oil after washing the filters
I switched back to Denso air filters for my 1988 Toyota Truck-it works better in keeping the dirt out! Being in California with strict laws have to go with what works best.
This is very true. I mean if you hold the K&N up to the light you can see the light coming through like a wet screen door. OK maybe not that bad, but still not good. I used a K&N in my Silverado for years. I never had any engine issues but when i wiped my finger on the intake tube downstream of the filter, there was real fine dust all on my finger. At that point I told myself never again. I stick to OEM filters now. It might have not caused an issue right away with my engine, but it was a Vortec 350 and are very well built. Maybe a different engine wouldn't fare very well with that dust going into the engine. Because that leads to more wear and tear on the engine no matter how you look at it.
exactly. and oiling a filter is another bad idea.theres a reason why a stock vehicle use dry filters. now if u are using vehicle for other purpose like sport then use performance parts
Apparently with static tests where you're just pulling air through the filter (in a test lab) the K&N will perform worse at filtration. However in a real-world scenario with turbulent air flow in a car accelerating, the K&N is meant to vibrate its layers thus trapping more dirt than a paper filter, all the while allowing greater air flow due to the larger 'gaps'.
I've been running the K and N filter in my truck and recently replaced idle intake valve and the throttle was incredibly dirty so was the air box.leading to the throttle body. I'm going back to paper.
I’m guessing they only make more power on twin turbo and or high HP cars. I have always used them in my high end modded cars with power ranges up to about 800 HP. I have no idea if they increase HP though. Companies claim they do. I Never tested on a dyno so who knows.
I just use regular paper filters. Just swap em out more often. I use Wix. I have used K&N in the past with good results. But I never re-oiled or cleaned them. I just swapped out for new. Oiling a filter just seemed to defeat the purpose of flow. I have no problem using K&N. But I’ll just swap them as often as a regular filter. Expensive, but if 5-10 extra horsepower is important to you, then it’s worth it. My car is fast enough the way it is.
438723 miles 98 jeep XJ 4.0 6, Had a K&N on it since 98000. Still has good compression and does not burn oil. (Only work to engine has been two valve jobs which is normal for that milage. )
I tried a 'high flow' oiled air filter on my motorbike and didn't notice any performance improvement. In dusty road conditions like that in India I think that 'high flow' filters won't offer adequate engine protection. I wouldn't trust any filter which filters light through. They may be good on the track, but I think that there's too much hype regarding real road use. Plus, it's a pain cleaning and oiling them. I feel safe with the OEM paper filter.
I see it this way. Paid 70.00 for one and where I live, clean it at 50k. Cleaning kit is 15.00 last time I checked. If I went paper, I’ll spend a 100 bucks or more at 10k intervals. There’s a link showing the filtration results and it’s only off by 2% margin from paper from a top brand. Another one shows a smaller margin pending on the test. I’ve never had an issue. Just make sure it’s dry before you re-oil it.
if they are maintained properly, they do their job properly. The oil absorbs the particulates that you are so deathly afraid of. So having them is a good thing. Over oil them and yes you can have issues with your MAF sensor. They DO work but once again, you have to properly maintain them!
@@Buddyclub33 - What material would you have preferred to be used for the air filter test? The point is the size of the particles, not what they are comprised of.
I heard what I wanted to hear, a true revision that matches the mechanic exact words: Sports air filters are in opposition with engine longevity. Thank you!
The only reason I got it because it last 100,000 miles and I clean it every 10k-15k .it's in a 4runner no dirt roads maybe once a month but usually regular roads . So should I just go back to the white filters I have 90k I'm the original owner I'm was going to buy another one next oil change but now I'm thinking twice?
when I go off roading I put my OEM paper filter on and normally daily driving I put the K&N bc it helps for the highway with no go up hills it doesn’t decelerate as bad as the paper bc of the air flow difference
I never had any issues by using K&N. But K&N also has dry flow air filters without requiring to add oil. AEM is also another good brand of reusable Performance air filter just like K&N. But AEM is also a dry flow filter. Try a dry flow and see what happens.
I agree with you, try the dry filters. To many people over oil there filters and damage MAF sensor. Another brand I like is AFE, they also offer dry filters, I been using them for years without any trouble.
I have been searching high and low for the K&n select dry filters for my truck (2019 2.7 ecoboost f150) But I have only been able to find the drop in flat dry K&n filters for tacoma on amazon. I cannot find the K&N select dry drop in filters for f 150 anywhere. you have any leads?
teres a reason why stock filters are dry filters. i dont even understand why people are changing them. if u are using ur vehicles as everyday car then stick with the stock. now if u r using ur car for sport the use performance parts.
K&N cost about 2x the OEM filter but last all the vehicle lifespan, so is much more cheaper on the long run... I had been using K&N on my Kawa Z800 for 8 years and no problems (save about 200USD on OEM air filters)
People's opinions differ on this matter, but the environment they are driving in makes a huge difference, obviously. While some places are blessed with crisp clean air, some aren't. I got very tempted to put one on my V6 Accord, but then rethought my decision as I basically live in an area with very frequent dust storms.
@shanedostie9002 idk I'm in a dump truck in calichie pit hauling 10 hours straight for 6 years no problems or doesn't puss out like the stock filters when they are plugged try it saves u money
Manufacturers already invested a lot of time and money designing the most efficient and safe intakes, they do take into account sound restrictions and cost so what you can do is always use aluminum straight pipes where possible and removel all the resonators, you can even find a paper cone filter such as the one found in the honda S2000.
You forgot to mention that HP can translate into better gas mileage if the driver backs off the throttle a bit. If you are city driving in a relatively dirt free environment and you drive allot of miles and gas prices are $7.00 per gallon sometimes, were I am, then saving 1 gallon for every hundred miles pays for the filter in like 500 miles. In the country I have seen what dirt roads do to an entire car. In that situation, I would put my own filter plus add the wix and just suffer the loss in gas mileage.
Correct. Better airflow slight increase in power and the engine works less hard to produce it then add a cat back exhaust so the whole system runs more efficiently.
Used KN in my bikes but never my cars since my old pt would act up after oiling. I use purolator oil and wix air filters on my 2 Toyota hybrids.Amsoil and 20 micron filters are the way to go 5k oil changes.
That's what I wanna know. I just put an AEM dry drop in filter into my 24' Civic that I just bought with 1 mile on the odometer. We'll see if the engine explodes at 10k miles.
Having a dirt bike background they're obviously designed for extremely dusty conditions, we used oiled foam as the OEM method its certainly high maintenance. What if you have an oiled filter foam, K&N or whatever on the intake side then a paper filter on the other side? Im gonna test this out. Im rebuilding my Tacoma right now and desire longevity of my NA air pump.
Also right with you on the intake sound in a truck. I tried a K&N intake years ago and absolutely hated the overwhelming intake drone sound that I returned it. I went with K&N oiled filter but going to put a paper filter after it sandwiched in the box
This heavily depends on the environment you drive in as well. If your car/truck is getting dirty quickly or fine dust is prevalent just stick with the throw aways
Micro particles of dirt aren't going to harm anything. The problem with those micro particles is that they stick to oil that gets into your intake from the blowby of the engine. So if you want the best of both worlds, get the K&N filter and an oil catch can. Especially on a GDI (gasoline direct injection) engine or a turbocharged engine. If you have nothing for the mirco particles to stick to, then they'll just flow into the engine, get burned and get pushed through the exhaust. Both will allow your engine to breathe better, and stay cleaner. Which will increase the longevitiy of the engine
You get much more filtering from a K & N filter. Aprox 2% more horsepower from your rated engines horsepower and Aprox 3% more torque. It's definitely more of a throaty sound with full acceleration. I have changed to this filter on the last 8 vehicles I have owned. There is a noticeable difference. This young man testing this could not be more wrong...On every level!!!
Don’t have the stock air box with mine, and it’s a cold air k and n So what would I do lol other then just replace with a new k and n filter or clean and oil it
Did you bother checking your intake after the filter? If you aren't seeing any build-up, it's working. I like reusing an air filter. I think it's wasteful to toss the filter every year.
I sometimes use a Pipercross free air flow filter i've purchased, in my stock air filter box .... whenever i switch it to the stock paper filter i feel that the car gains torque instead of losing.......this makes me believe that simply running on a free air flow filter doesn't make your car perform better.....
I run a paper filter, and do a lot of driving in very dusty conditions. The last filter lasted 5-6 oil changes before I bothered changing it, and it still would have been fine for at least another. So basically its 20ish bucks once every few years or 80+ and then the charge kit, and you also still wanna have a backup filter because it takes 24 hours to dry a K & N before you oil it. Sometimes you can get clearance plain box filters on Rockauto for less than 5 bucks each. It is a no brainer to me.
I just cleaned my K&N. It dried in about an hour. I think I paid about $40. I have had the car for 15 years and cleaned the filter about 4 times. I just bought my second cleaning kit for $22 since I use K&N on both of my vehicles. I believe I am saving money. It’s hard for me to believe that the oiled cotton is not filtering well, but I guess I have to believe testing. My vehicles have not had any serious issues. Both are 2005s.
Chicken wire as a filter makes a big difference in performance. But it lets in stuff 1 inch and less into your engine. And, never alter your intake system. The OEM system was set up by automotive engineers who practice the black art of fluid dynamics. Backyard Jethro mods are ignorant, especially while drinking Mountain Dew!
I've using those K&N filters for many years. Never had a problem! It took him 5 years...go figure! K&N are good filters if you know how to maintain them.
The only issue is a reduction in long term engine life and efficiency. You wont notice small, incremental differences over the life of a vehicle that has the engine wearing out faster, until it's too late and the damage is already done. It's like cancer, you can't see it, but by the time you feel the consequences of it, by then it's too late and you're dead.
There’s a lot of people who don’t know this, but the K&N filters are designed to make use of the oil on them. The oil prevents particles from going in. The dirtier the top side of the filter gets, the better it filters out smaller particles. Also, K&N is superior to the OEM filter in every way. It may not give you 5+HP like you want it to, but it actually does benefit the engine. An engine is basically a big vacuum that sucks in air. The less resistance and the less restrictive parts put on it, the better it performs. The K&N will help the engine feel slightly less choked and will benefit from the extra airflow through the K&N filter, which is the given benefit of throttle response.
Watch project farms video test. I used to believe they were good too. They are horrible at filtering. Not worth the unnoticable performance gain. I switched next day. Need my engine to last not get a couple extra horses I won't even notice
I just cleaned my K&N for the first time. I liked it when I first bought it. It gave the car a bit raspier sound, but after cleaning it today Im considering going back to an OE Denso or Wix. Damn K&Ns take foreever to dry and the cleaning kit is more expensive than a new Denso or Wix for my car.
@@pickjerry15,000 miles. K&N says you can go a lot further but I live in a really dusty place where high winds can pickup and blow a lot of dirt everywhere. My filter was very dirty.
The only issue is a reduction in long term engine life and efficiency. You wont notice small, incremental differences over the life of a vehicle that has the engine wearing out faster, until it's too late and the damage is already done. It's like cancer, you can't see it, but by the time you feel the consequences of it, by then it's too late and you're dead.
If you are driving a 45 hp motorcycle and a high flow filter bumps you up to 50 hp, you may feel a difference. If you are driving a 245 hp car and a high flow air filter bumps you up to 250 hp, you probably will not notice.
if you're super rich and don't care about making an engine last a long time for the next poor owner then sure use K&N... but if you care about your car and want the engine to last a long time paper is the way to go. Having said that, you wouldn't just change the air filter to increase performance, but use it within a stage 2/stage 3 package adding up all the small and not so small gains together.
I have a 2013 Camry. I use a FRAM air filter, just because its sold at Cdn Tire and its the easiest thing to buy. I live in a city and don't drive on dusty and dirty roads, so the filter only get replaced every 2 years. I considered buying a K&N but didn't see any benefit over what is now 10 years. I have paid roughly $75.00 for FRAM air filters or I could have paid roughly $75.00 for a K&N in 2013 + the extra cost of the cleaning solution. I agree the WIX is a better filter, then the FRAM. In the long run, living in Ottawa, I have never lost an engine or a car from a cheep air filter, but RUST is a different story! (I wish we could filter the salt)
Agreed. I haven't run K&N filters since I was in my early 20s. They just aren't as amazing as people seem to think they are. OEM on my 4Runner and Harley for years. Really dig your 4Runner. Its much nicer than mine. What year is it?
@lumity365 I've had one on one of my motorcycles for a couple of years. Seems to be pretty good. And easy to clean- just take it out and hose it off and let dry. Ive never seen anything to think they don't work.
He’s probably upset because he didn’t realize he could clean the air filter with a special cleaners at least twice rinse the bees out of the scalding hot water. Smack it on a towel a couple times. Dry it with the hairdryer re-oil it and put it back in and get maximum airflow once again, but I guess he prefers to pay $25 for a paper filter every six months or more. I love only having tolook at my air filter once or twice a year.
Right! Why buy disposable filters every so often, coming from the WRX platform, even in my old Honda accord I ran a reusable filter, save yourself some money
over oiled my K&N filter and it was fine. like over oiled so much that there was oil pouring off the filter lol. i dabbed it some with a paper towel. probably depends on the car
Pro tip never oil from the clean side always oil it from the dirty side same thing as cleaning it do not clean it from the dirty side clean from the clean side if you clean from dirty side, you’re pushing particles and dirt and bugs back into the clean sideall those particles would get tossed into your engine. If you from the side that oil can contaminate your airflow sensor oil from the side spray enough on there and let it wick for like an hour and a half to two hours not that difficult. Good luck.
I'm no physicist, but you and the ISO testing confirmed my snake-oil suspicions. As far as I can tell, you can't make a passive filter less restrictive without increasing surface area of the filter material or making it more porous. Same goes for passive oil filters which is why the good ones are physically longer than the cheap ones, but there the big gain is no so much in initial reduction of restriction and more about longevity.
For our street driven muscle car classics that hardly get driven and only in nice weather I’d say no problem at all with the K&N filters. I never drive them around any dirt or gravel roads.
![The ULTIMATE Air Filter Test [Engineer Tested]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RdbFAG5xbyY/mqdefault.jpg)
![The ULTIMATE Air Filter Test [Engineer Tested]](/img/tr.png)
What air filter are you running and why is everyone else stupid for not doing the same? FIGHT
th-cam.com/video/0iX9PIW4nqI/w-d-xo.html
OEM
Was told 35 yrs ago, by a man who worked for a Big 3 Dealer, Wix, Hastings, Purolator best.
I use Wix.
I run a K&N filter, but I don't believe it offers any improvement over an OEM filter - I do it because throwing away an OEM filter every 30,000km seems less environmentally friendly than using the same filter for the life of the vehicle.
I have been using K&N filters for more than 25 years, having sold 1 car with 212,000 miles on it (Lexus) and did not use any oil between 6,000 mile oil changes without a single problem with engine wear, MAF sensors, and, cleaning the K&N air filter about every 30,000 miles. I agree that if one drives in a very dusty environment, this might cause increased engine wear, but in city driving which is mostly what I do, there has never been a problems, and the cost of paper replacement filters on my cars, were many multiples of the cost of one K&N filter and it's cleaning kit, which has lasted now about 14 years (the kit). These are in my opinion, valid points to consider when using these kinds of filters. The horsepower increases very from none to well documented increases depending on the motor they are placed on.
Agreed. People should avoid them in dry dusty climates
You took the engine apart and confirmed?
@@CheapSushiconfirmed moron.
😂😂😂😂
K&N=Extra Silicone
Been using K&N for well over 10 years. Love them!
@@ChrisPatrick-q6k300,000KM on it
Keeps running clown.
@World_So_Cold Thanks so much for watching our content 🙂
Any problems? I think I will just throw mine out at 2 years and buy a new one
@@Phone-sh7jg No problems. My truck I had the top end redone at 240,000km (because I wanted more power and had a cam installed). You could still see the cross hatching on the cylinders.
My truck has 300,000km now and that filter was installed before the cam upgrade so it probably has 70,000km on it. I just wash it whenever it looks really dirty and the engine oil gets changed every 5,000km with synthetic motor oil and K&N oil filters with a Filtermag and the drain plug is magnetic.
Hit the nail in the head, I live on a dirt road, and I’m much more concerned about filtration and longevity than performance, thanks for the info and I agree with your decision.
Used K&N for every vehicle I've owned. Maintain it, and OIL it properly. Never had an issue.
Simply don't fucking oil it yourself. Just throw it out and buy a new one. Besides it's fine for 100k. After that sell your dam car 😂
Problem solved. 😂
You'll see more silicon (dirt) on an oil analysis
@@matsudakodo not on my recent Blackstone reports, both vehicles showed a good report, these vehicles had the k&n in well over 50,000 miles so far.
@@RJL1983 what were your levels of silicon?
@@matsudakodo report shows universal average is 11 and mine shows 10
this guy is right on the money with the maf. replaced my air filter to the kn and turned out my car couldn't pass emission and was throwing p0172 codes. had to replace maf sensor yesterday. cleaned the air filter and will switch back to paper next week when I have time
Cleaning the MAF sensor (with CRC Mass air flow sensor cleaner) would have stopped the problem and clearing the code would have made your car pass the test.
Been running a k&n filter for a month now in my 2004 v6 4runner and oh boy what a difference it makes for torque acceleration.
Throttle response*
Placebo.
@brucebruce479 it's not. On a 130hp vehicle you can expect 3-5HP.
@@brucebruce479Bruce the goose
Do you have the flat filter or the tube version?
My v6 Accord make 4hp on the drop in filter and I've had the filter for 5 years .. love it .
I think this strictly depends on driving habits. If you’re never around major dust, etc. (Farm or dirt roads), K & N works perfectly fine. I have a ‘23 Equinox that was getting 29.2 mpg with oem paper filter. After 3 weeks of K & N in normal clean driving conditions I’m at 31.6 mpg . Keep it clean and oil lightly and the proof is in the pudding.
229,000 miles on my TRD Tacoma that has been on a lot of dirt roads, off road trails, and flat out mud pits lol
K&N has been in it since it's first oil change ... So far so good 🤞🤞👌👌
But this post is interesting to be and has me considering which to buy for our Forester right now
I don't suppose anyone knows why and how K&N came to be???
Racing motorcycles in the dirt??
Thats right, specifically designed for dirt...
@@keithm532yes for dirt, mud, wet….they resist collapse similar to foam filters.
How could you possibly determine fuel mileage? You would have to have the exact same conditions and throttling. It's simply impossible to do that
@@boarhog1979its pretty easy actually... With maths!! lol but if you choke on this cup of water..
Can we run a test where the air flow is not constant? Project Farm and the Nico Club are constant air flow tests (unless I am missing something and excluding the Restriction to Flow test). The K & N advocates seem to claim the fibers are moving as air is not at a constant speed in an engine intake. Particles hit the moving fibers in several layers and are caught by the oil. This seems to make sense as one is accelerating etc. I recall the MAP sensor sending in all different types of values. Interesting that K & N may be able to handle more dirt than paper where gaps are immediately plugged vs fibers that can move to allow air to pass through (again with varying flow). The scale decision on the graphs in the Nico Club are also odd. It's a 3% difference at constant speed between the top and lowest performer in filter efficiency. This would be barely discernible if the graph was true to scale.
Sound like some K&N propaganda nonsense. If it filters it filters. They do not. I switched after watching that test. No way that "pulsing" air is going to drop the ammount of particles it let's thru by ten fold which would barely get it to same level As the cheapest filter
You make valid points. Thanks for helping me make the decision to stay stock. Seems like there are many more cons, than pros. Very informative video. Respect brother. ✊🏽
I'm running a KN air filter but my engine is tuned and my exhaust has been modified. I paid like $72 CAD for the KN filter but I keep a OEM filter and a can of MAF sensor cleaner in the car in the event of MAF sensor being soiled by the KN filter.
Also a dirty air filter provide better filtration than a clean one but a clean filter is less restrictive than a dirty one.
Lasty if your MAF gets dirty and the engine runs rough etc just clean it, there's absolutely no need to replace it in fact the MAF sensor will last entire lifespan of the engine.
Also, cleaning it is stupidly simple. Just some carb cleaner sprayed on it and let it dry.
I use K&N filter for all my cars more than 7 years and I have never had any issue. I have noticed more horse power and better millage on my cars after replacing filters. I always clean my filters after 2 to 3 oil changes as I have double filters for each car, I tend to wash them and oil it and secure them with plastic to keep dust away from them so I can use next time I need them.
I also do the alternating filter thing. In my calculation, putting in the clean one then cleaning and storing the dirty one was more manageable yet still much cheaper than paper filters that just end up in the dump after a few thousand miles.
How do you really know though unless you're taking your engines apart at similar intervals and confirming.
@@CheapSushiexactly how do you know sushi? You talked bad about k&n filters!
Here is the deal.
K&N tested on my BMW with a NA i6 engine.
- Smoother idle
- +10nm of torque in the low RPMs
- Better induction sound
- +5hp at the Mid/High range
- Better breathing when engine is on load.
- Better linear acceleration
- K&N must be used as a replacement to the stock air-filter enclosed in its OE housing.
- The oil change interval must be reduced to 3/4K miles max.
- If you live in a very dusty area. Cleaning the filter should take place every 15.000 miles or so, the proper way.
- K&N does not play well with Turbo engines unless the DME is remapped to the new air flow.
I think you have a good comment
I need some one for honestly answer
I don’t understand. If you had a K&N filter for 5 years and ENJOY the throttle response/mileage, why not just buy a new K&N filter and have it last you another few years or swapping it out every 2-3 years for a brand new one to keep the throttle response/mileage?
Haha exactly my thought, it’s not that expensive
Watch project farms video test. I used to believe they were good too. They are horrible at filtering. Not worth the unnoticable performance gain regardless of cost or change out frequency
@@Joeblk10 Yep I switch back to a paper one (Purolator) after reading more reviews. They aren't good at filtering vs. Paper filters
did you even watch the video? he clearly explained that the minimal horsepower gains didn't outweigh the amount of dirt that the K&N lets into the engine
I didn't think of that before. I just re-oil them and clean them 😂
Your absolutely correct with your assessment of k&n good for the track bad for daily drivers longevity
If thats the case then why do Toyota even sell TRD performance oil air filters? Which is basically an K&N
because rich people don't care about longevity they'll replace their car in 1-2 years when the next trendy thing comes out instead of keeping it for 10 years
i picked up a 2022 TUNDRA k&N air filter and am getting lower MPG crazy..it just sounds slightly better when i punch on the accelerator..changing back to OEM
K&N are great air filters. The key is to use them properly. In the United States, there is a very, very small percentage of the driving population that have relevance in stating the "harsh" air conditions would prevent them from owning a K&N because they let "too" much particulates through.
I hate replacing a filter every 7k miles so I ended up getting a K&N filter for the stock engine air intake box and I was so glad I did. Can't say I noticed a difference in power though.
I use a aFe dry air filter with stock oem airbox. It doesnt need to be oiled and just needed to be cleaned with a air filter cleaner and some water. I keep my oem air filter while the filter dries
I have 2007 Ford E-350 Clubwagon. Using the K&N filter flow box on the parts counter the OEM filter flowed better then the K&N. My guess is that the Stock filter was a little bigger and had more pleats.
You got a k&n performance filter for a 4-Runner?
I ditched my k&n air filter on my sport bike (carb) it was letting too much air into the air box and messed with the air/fuel mixture. maybe if i jetted the carbs and adjusted mixture screws it would be ok.
It "feels the same" is a very scientific answer 🤣 🤣 🤣
I’ve always been skeptical of the K&N filters, and other brand filters that require oil. Personally I would recommend either the AFE Pro Dry S filter, or the AEM DryFlow filter. I have the AFE intake with the dry filter in my 2006 4Runner, and my friends and family all have a mix of AFE and AEM dry filters in their vehicles. Never went back to the paper filters, and never had to worry about adding oil after washing the filters
I switched back to Denso air filters for my 1988 Toyota Truck-it works better in keeping the dirt out! Being in California with strict laws have to go with what works best.
Have you looked into the TRD filter? How do they stand up?
This is very true. I mean if you hold the K&N up to the light you can see the light coming through like a wet screen door. OK maybe not that bad, but still not good. I used a K&N in my Silverado for years. I never had any engine issues but when i wiped my finger on the intake tube downstream of the filter, there was real fine dust all on my finger. At that point I told myself never again. I stick to OEM filters now. It might have not caused an issue right away with my engine, but it was a Vortec 350 and are very well built. Maybe a different engine wouldn't fare very well with that dust going into the engine. Because that leads to more wear and tear on the engine no matter how you look at it.
exactly. and oiling a filter is another bad idea.theres a reason why a stock vehicle use dry filters. now if u are using vehicle for other purpose like sport then use performance parts
Hey bro i have too k&N OEM and i Noticed there is oil in my air Filter chamber why soo?
Just ordered the Wix, good review from Project Farm.
Apparently with static tests where you're just pulling air through the filter (in a test lab) the K&N will perform worse at filtration. However in a real-world scenario with turbulent air flow in a car accelerating, the K&N is meant to vibrate its layers thus trapping more dirt than a paper filter, all the while allowing greater air flow due to the larger 'gaps'.
Logical reply 🎉
I've been running the K and N filter in my truck and recently replaced idle intake valve and the throttle was incredibly dirty so was the air box.leading to the throttle body. I'm going back to paper.
I’m guessing they only make more power on twin turbo and or high HP cars. I have always used them in my high end modded cars with power ranges up to about 800 HP. I have no idea if they increase HP though. Companies claim they do. I Never tested on a dyno so who knows.
Non oiled dry version of K & N or AEM engine filters
I just use regular paper filters. Just swap em out more often. I use Wix. I have used K&N in the past with good results. But I never re-oiled or cleaned them. I just swapped out for new. Oiling a filter just seemed to defeat the purpose of flow. I have no problem using K&N. But I’ll just swap them as often as a regular filter. Expensive, but if 5-10 extra horsepower is important to you, then it’s worth it. My car is fast enough the way it is.
exactly oiling air filter is nonsense if u are aiming for more airflow.
@@thehobbyist5292you do know that the k&n is oiled from the factory right?
What about k&n for my cabin ??
438723 miles 98 jeep XJ 4.0 6, Had a K&N on it since 98000. Still has good compression and does not burn oil. (Only work to engine has been two valve jobs which is normal for that milage. )
I tried a 'high flow' oiled air filter on my motorbike and didn't notice any performance improvement. In dusty road conditions like that in India I think that 'high flow' filters won't offer adequate engine protection. I wouldn't trust any filter which filters light through. They may be good on the track, but I think that there's too much hype regarding real road use. Plus, it's a pain cleaning and oiling them. I feel safe with the OEM paper filter.
What about the Afepower dry filter??? I don’t clean them I just replace them
I see it this way. Paid 70.00 for one and where I live, clean it at 50k. Cleaning kit is 15.00 last time I checked. If I went paper, I’ll spend a 100 bucks or more at 10k intervals. There’s a link showing the filtration results and it’s only off by 2% margin from paper from a top brand. Another one shows a smaller margin pending on the test. I’ve never had an issue. Just make sure it’s dry before you re-oil it.
Do the K&N filters cause any kind of oil dilution?
Can anyone answer me please.
I’m using AEM Dryflow Panel Filter (by K&N). It flows similar to oiled K&N but filters particles better, close to standard paper filter.
1:50 I don't recognize the Toyota.
This ain't normal Supra right?
What is it?
MR2
Been runnin stock air filters for over 40 years and no problem.
if they are maintained properly, they do their job properly. The oil absorbs the particulates that you are so deathly afraid of. So having them is a good thing. Over oil them and yes you can have issues with your MAF sensor. They DO work but once again, you have to properly maintain them!
Watch project farms video test. You'll see the light
@ericjarvis3051 LOL who drives in fields full of flour? 😂
@@Buddyclub33 - What material would you have preferred to be used for the air filter test? The point is the size of the particles, not what they are comprised of.
Key phrase “maintained properly” if you were to go for warranty from KN…you would lose cuz you didn’t do it correctly
I heard what I wanted to hear, a true revision that matches the mechanic exact words: Sports air filters are in opposition with engine longevity. Thank you!
The only reason I got it because it last 100,000 miles and I clean it every 10k-15k .it's in a 4runner no dirt roads maybe once a month but usually regular roads . So should I just go back to the white filters I have 90k I'm the original owner I'm was going to buy another one next oil change but now I'm thinking twice?
when I go off roading I put my OEM paper filter on and normally daily driving I put the K&N bc it helps for the highway with no go up hills it doesn’t decelerate as bad as the paper bc of the air flow difference
I never had any issues by using K&N. But K&N also has dry flow air filters without requiring to add oil. AEM is also another good brand of reusable Performance air filter just like K&N. But AEM is also a dry flow filter. Try a dry flow and see what happens.
I agree with you, try the dry filters. To many people over oil there filters and damage MAF sensor. Another brand I like is AFE, they also offer dry filters, I been using them for years without any trouble.
I have been searching high and low for the K&n select dry filters for my truck (2019 2.7 ecoboost f150) But I have only been able to find the drop in flat dry K&n filters for tacoma on amazon. I cannot find the K&N select dry drop in filters for f 150 anywhere. you have any leads?
teres a reason why stock filters are dry filters. i dont even understand why people are changing them. if u are using ur vehicles as everyday car then stick with the stock. now if u r using ur car for sport the use performance parts.
I wholeheartedly agree with your decision to use paper filter compared to K&N filter.
Came here for the info on K&N filters, dropping a comment to let you know I love the MR2!!!!
Podrías hablar del filtro de cabina? Si vale la pena o no con K&N?
You have to get the vehicle tuned to adjust for the different airflow and correct the amount of fuel that is injected
K&N cost about 2x the OEM filter but last all the vehicle lifespan, so is much more cheaper on the long run... I had been using K&N on my Kawa Z800 for 8 years and no problems (save about 200USD on OEM air filters)
You gotta grease up the sides of the k&N filter with grease.. particals can get up through the side depending on the design of your airbox
People's opinions differ on this matter, but the environment they are driving in makes a huge difference, obviously. While some places are blessed with crisp clean air, some aren't. I got very tempted to put one on my V6 Accord, but then rethought my decision as I basically live in an area with very frequent dust storms.
I choose the apexi cotton high flow filter. Maybe not reusable but definitely filters way better and flows equally as good
I have been using K&N filter for 8 years and never had an issue. K&N does not ruin your MAF sensor and has been proven.
Bravo. I ja sam koristio taj filter i samo sam bacio novac. Nista bolje nema od pravog filtera koji gabrika nalaže da se stavi.
I have a dump truck with a k/n been running it 7 years no problem im in dirt Calichie all day .. no dirt in engine
How can you confirm there’s no dirt in your engine tho
@shanedostie9002 bro you will know the turbo will blow I've seen turbine break from fine sand dirt
@@BB-xv6hp that can definitely happen yes but it doesn’t mean there’s no dirt in your engine. You’d have to open up the engine to know that
@shanedostie9002 idk I'm in a dump truck in calichie pit hauling 10 hours straight for 6 years no problems or doesn't puss out like the stock filters when they are plugged try it saves u money
@@BB-xv6hp if it works it works, I love K and N too but hearing that it may not filter as much is definitely catching my attention
Manufacturers already invested a lot of time and money designing the most efficient and safe intakes, they do take into account sound restrictions and cost so what you can do is always use aluminum straight pipes where possible and removel all the resonators, you can even find a paper cone filter such as the one found in the honda S2000.
You forgot to mention that HP can translate into better gas mileage if the driver backs off the throttle a bit. If you are city driving in a relatively dirt free environment and you drive allot of miles and gas prices are $7.00 per gallon sometimes, were I am, then saving 1 gallon for every hundred miles pays for the filter in like 500 miles. In the country I have seen what dirt roads do to an entire car. In that situation, I would put my own filter plus add the wix and just suffer the loss in gas mileage.
Correct. Better airflow slight increase in power and the engine works less hard to produce it then add a cat back exhaust so the whole system runs more efficiently.
Used KN in my bikes but never my cars since my old pt would act up after oiling. I use purolator oil and wix air filters on my 2 Toyota hybrids.Amsoil and 20 micron filters are the way to go 5k oil changes.
I was thinking of an AFE prodry filter. What are your thoughts on this vs stock or K&N? Would dry be better?
That's what I wanna know. I just put an AEM dry drop in filter into my 24' Civic that I just bought with 1 mile on the odometer. We'll see if the engine explodes at 10k miles.
My F150's already got 300,000 km. Not worried about longevity at this point lol
Come to El Salvador and notice the incredible amount or dirt in the city. Any air filter resist only 3 months
Having a dirt bike background they're obviously designed for extremely dusty conditions, we used oiled foam as the OEM method its certainly high maintenance. What if you have an oiled filter foam, K&N or whatever on the intake side then a paper filter on the other side? Im gonna test this out. Im rebuilding my Tacoma right now and desire longevity of my NA air pump.
Also right with you on the intake sound in a truck. I tried a K&N intake years ago and absolutely hated the overwhelming intake drone sound that I returned it. I went with K&N oiled filter but going to put a paper filter after it sandwiched in the box
Also decided to not put a K&N filter in, since reliability is a huge point for me.
This heavily depends on the environment you drive in as well. If your car/truck is getting dirty quickly or fine dust is prevalent just stick with the throw aways
Micro particles of dirt aren't going to harm anything. The problem with those micro particles is that they stick to oil that gets into your intake from the blowby of the engine. So if you want the best of both worlds, get the K&N filter and an oil catch can. Especially on a GDI (gasoline direct injection) engine or a turbocharged engine. If you have nothing for the mirco particles to stick to, then they'll just flow into the engine, get burned and get pushed through the exhaust. Both will allow your engine to breathe better, and stay cleaner. Which will increase the longevitiy of the engine
do you mean a dry flow filter is better than an oiled K&N filter?
You get much more filtering from a K & N filter. Aprox 2% more horsepower from your rated engines horsepower and Aprox 3% more torque. It's definitely more of a throaty sound with full acceleration. I have changed to this filter on the last 8 vehicles I have owned. There is a noticeable difference. This young man testing this could not be more wrong...On every level!!!
Maybe you use a tube filter and this guy used a flat filter, is tube filter much better than K&N flat filter?
Don’t have the stock air box with mine, and it’s a cold air k and n
So what would I do lol other then just replace with a new k and n filter or clean and oil it
I think the main thing is to make sure you don't over oil it to keep your MAF sensor healthy
High flow filter will only gain power near the redline will actually reduce your low rpm power
Did you bother checking your intake after the filter? If you aren't seeing any build-up, it's working. I like reusing an air filter. I think it's wasteful to toss the filter every year.
I sometimes use a Pipercross free air flow filter i've purchased, in my stock air filter box .... whenever i switch it to the stock paper filter i feel that the car gains torque instead of losing.......this makes me believe that simply running on a free air flow filter doesn't make your car perform better.....
I run a paper filter, and do a lot of driving in very dusty conditions. The last filter lasted 5-6 oil changes before I bothered changing it, and it still would have been fine for at least another. So basically its 20ish bucks once every few years or 80+ and then the charge kit, and you also still wanna have a backup filter because it takes 24 hours to dry a K & N before you oil it. Sometimes you can get clearance plain box filters on Rockauto for less than 5 bucks each. It is a no brainer to me.
Good point about down time while cleaning it!
I just cleaned my K&N. It dried in about an hour. I think I paid about $40. I have had the car for 15 years and cleaned the filter about 4 times. I just bought my second cleaning kit for $22 since I use K&N on both of my vehicles. I believe I am saving money. It’s hard for me to believe that the oiled cotton is not filtering well, but I guess I have to believe testing. My vehicles have not had any serious issues. Both are 2005s.
Chicken wire as a filter makes a big difference in performance. But it lets in stuff 1 inch and less into your engine. And, never alter your intake system. The OEM system was set up by automotive engineers who practice the black art of fluid dynamics. Backyard Jethro mods are ignorant, especially while drinking Mountain Dew!
I've using those K&N filters for many years. Never had a problem! It took him 5 years...go figure! K&N are good filters if you know how to maintain them.
Watch project farms video test. I used to believe they were good too. They are horrible at filtering. Not worth the unnoticqble performance gain.
@@Joeblk10, using K&N filters for more than 20 years. Never an engine problem. Nothing!!! I clean it every 2 years.
The only issue is a reduction in long term engine life and efficiency. You wont notice small, incremental differences over the life of a vehicle that has the engine wearing out faster, until it's too late and the damage is already done. It's like cancer, you can't see it, but by the time you feel the consequences of it, by then it's too late and you're dead.
What's the red car?
Looks like Toyota MR2 oldschool goodie sportscar... Cheers!
Does a KNM filter get worse gas mileage
There’s a lot of people who don’t know this, but the K&N filters are designed to make use of the oil on them. The oil prevents particles from going in. The dirtier the top side of the filter gets, the better it filters out smaller particles. Also, K&N is superior to the OEM filter in every way. It may not give you 5+HP like you want it to, but it actually does benefit the engine. An engine is basically a big vacuum that sucks in air. The less resistance and the less restrictive parts put on it, the better it performs. The K&N will help the engine feel slightly less choked and will benefit from the extra airflow through the K&N filter, which is the given benefit of throttle response.
Watch project farms video test. I used to believe they were good too. They are horrible at filtering. Not worth the unnoticable performance gain. I switched next day. Need my engine to last not get a couple extra horses I won't even notice
325,000 miles on V8 land cruiser with K&N . Death valley dunes, talc and sand. @@Joeblk10
I just cleaned my K&N for the first time. I liked it when I first bought it. It gave the car a bit raspier sound, but after cleaning it today Im considering going back to an OE Denso or Wix. Damn K&Ns take foreever to dry and the cleaning kit is more expensive than a new Denso or Wix for my car.
How long did you use the filter before cleaning it?
@@pickjerry15,000 miles. K&N says you can go a lot further but I live in a really dusty place where high winds can pickup and blow a lot of dirt everywhere. My filter was very dirty.
A driver playing with their phone is more likely to write off your vehicle before a K&N air filter damages your engine.
Had a k&n filter on my truck for 200k miles. Never ran into any issue’s whatsoever.
Guys using a KN filter don’t keep their cars for long and change them often. So longevity is not priority.
Been using k&n for years and zero issues. Running in beach sand, dirt good and bad roads, again no issues.
The only issue is a reduction in long term engine life and efficiency. You wont notice small, incremental differences over the life of a vehicle that has the engine wearing out faster, until it's too late and the damage is already done. It's like cancer, you can't see it, but by the time you feel the consequences of it, by then it's too late and you're dead.
@@HiTechOilCo 69,000 still going strong.
@@badkarma5776 report back when you get to 250 000
i wont use one for two reasons, one is i dont want to clean , reoil etc. My second reason is the dirt they let in as he said. Paper is fine.
If you are driving a 45 hp motorcycle and a high flow filter bumps you up to 50 hp, you may feel a difference. If you are driving a 245 hp car and a high flow air filter bumps you up to 250 hp, you probably will not notice.
if you're super rich and don't care about making an engine last a long time for the next poor owner then sure use K&N... but if you care about your car and want the engine to last a long time paper is the way to go. Having said that, you wouldn't just change the air filter to increase performance, but use it within a stage 2/stage 3 package adding up all the small and not so small gains together.
I have a 2013 Camry. I use a FRAM air filter, just because its sold at Cdn Tire and its the easiest thing to buy. I live in a city and don't drive on dusty and dirty roads, so the filter only get replaced every 2 years. I considered buying a K&N but didn't see any benefit over what is now 10 years. I have paid roughly $75.00 for FRAM air filters or I could have paid roughly $75.00 for a K&N in 2013 + the extra cost of the cleaning solution. I agree the WIX is a better filter, then the FRAM. In the long run, living in Ottawa, I have never lost an engine or a car from a cheep air filter, but RUST is a different story! (I wish we could filter the salt)
Agreed. I haven't run K&N filters since I was in my early 20s. They just aren't as amazing as people seem to think they are. OEM on my 4Runner and Harley for years.
Really dig your 4Runner. Its much nicer than mine. What year is it?
Thanks Chris, it's a 2007 👍
@@CanadianGearhead Thanks for the quick response! Have a good night ✌️
Hi chriss what do you think about the dry filters from kn not the oil
@CanadianGearhead
@lumity365 I've had one on one of my motorcycles for a couple of years. Seems to be pretty good. And easy to clean- just take it out and hose it off and let dry. Ive never seen anything to think they don't work.
I put K&N filter in PT cruiser. went 190,000 then the car was worn out. Filter still good.
Have a check about what David Vizard think about k&n filters eventualy.
He’s probably upset because he didn’t realize he could clean the air filter with a special cleaners at least twice rinse the bees out of the scalding hot water. Smack it on a towel a couple times. Dry it with the hairdryer re-oil it and put it back in and get maximum airflow once again, but I guess he prefers to pay $25 for a paper filter every six months or more. I love only having tolook at my air filter once or twice a year.
Yes it is too easy to do.
Right! Why buy disposable filters every so often, coming from the WRX platform, even in my old Honda accord I ran a reusable filter, save yourself some money
Been using k&n for 8years now and all on our cars no issue just maintaining every k&n every 5k-10k(max) KM
I had 2 MAF sensors go out due to over oiling, I stopped using K&N oil filters.
Sounds like a user error and not a K&N problem
@@solovolante630 was definitely my error. I stick to a dry performance filter now just in case
over oiled my K&N filter and it was fine. like over oiled so much that there was oil pouring off the filter lol. i dabbed it some with a paper towel. probably depends on the car
Pro tip never oil from the clean side always oil it from the dirty side same thing as cleaning it do not clean it from the dirty side clean from the clean side if you clean from dirty side, you’re pushing particles and dirt and bugs back into the clean sideall those particles would get tossed into your engine. If you from the side that oil can contaminate your airflow sensor oil from the side spray enough on there and let it wick for like an hour and a half to two hours not that difficult. Good luck.
@@bobg3221 I've been running Rtunes drop in filter for a while now. they're only $25 so I just get a new one after a year.
Wix and Fram from my opinion are the best filters 👌🏻
I'm no physicist, but you and the ISO testing confirmed my snake-oil suspicions. As far as I can tell, you can't make a passive filter less restrictive without increasing surface area of the filter material or making it more porous. Same goes for passive oil filters which is why the good ones are physically longer than the cheap ones, but there the big gain is no so much in initial reduction of restriction and more about longevity.
For our street driven muscle car classics that hardly get driven and only in nice weather I’d say no problem at all with the K&N filters. I never drive them around any dirt or gravel roads.