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I've been using K&N for decades in every vehicle I've owned. The trick is to not abuse while cleaning or over oil the element. After applying the oil, put the filter on an absorbent paper towel, or wrap one around it, where the towel is in contact with the mesh, and leave it in a warm place. Replace the towels for as long as it takes to stop getting oil residue seeping into the paper. When you've been using these K&N things long enough, you get a feel for what the right amount of oil is, and the process time of cleaning and re-oiling gets shorter, and cheaper in the long run. Doing this prevents contaminating the MAF. I have a paper filter that I use and store in a ziplock bag to install in the air box while I'm waiting for the oil to set and allows me to use the car. That same paper filter has been around for 15 years and serves as a backup only. Be gentle on these elements, and they'll last a very long time and makes the effort very economical.
Yes the paper ones are safer and filter better, but I, like yourself, use K&n on everything including my big rig. Once you figure how much oil to use and you let them rest like you said they last a long time and are not as messy. I still love them
I just buy new K&N filters when they need to be replaced, because I don't trust myself to oil one properly. Buying a new filter actually isn't much more expensive than cleaning your filter. The oiling/cleaning products from K&N aren't cheap, and you have to consider your time and energy. It's also a lot easier!
@@riekopo7638 that's a good question. According to K&N, you only have to do it like every 60,000 to 70,000 miles. However, I don't drive much, and my Xterra has only gone up about 15,000 to 20,000 miles in 7 years. I think I might replace the K&N filter just for peace of mind, even though there's only been 25,000 miles max on it since intallation.
I've used K&N air filters in my vehicles since the early 80's. Never ruined a mass air flow sensor or destroyed the rings or cylinder walls from the demon K&N air filters. Well over half a million miles with no trouble. I'm not a lucky person by nature.
Same here. You can't blame the filter if somebody over oils it or doesn't give it some dry time before reinstalling. I laugh at the people who buy paper filter after paper filter after paper filter. Buy a K&N and it'll outlast the car
@@catfishbilly7425 I clean my K&N filter and oil it every 10,000 miles. the recommendation is every 50,000 miles for regular sized filters. the larger filters is every 100,000 miles.
I'd use one if I didn't live in a dusty environment. Tiny dust particles that a paper filter will catch will go straight through a K&N and end up in the oil.
The problem a lot of people have with K&N filters is that they don’t wait long enough to clean and reoil them. Realistically, then entire process will take 6-8 hours. You need to let the cleaner soak in for about half an hour at a minimum and then after rinsing it, let the filter sit in the sun for for at least 2-3hrs before oiling. And you don’t want to put on too much oil, just enough so you will see the filter media turn pink (assuming your oil is red) then let it dry for another 2-3 hours before adding potentially more oil if you’re seeing any white or gray unoiled filter. And then let sit another 2 hours or so. So I kept my car’s OEM paper filter for the once a year when I’ll have to clean and reoil my K&N filter (either vacuum seal if or just put it in a ziplock bag to keep excess moisture out). As for my motorcycle, I just bought an extra K&N filter so when I need to swap it, I just unbolt old filter, install the clean oiled one and then clean the old one, letting it dry for about 2x the time I mentioned earlier, since I won’t be under a time crunch (weather is good and I wanna ride).
I have two K&N filters. I just swap them out every 30k miles so I can clean properly and re oil. Then I placed the cleaned re oiled filter back in the box the replacement came in and. Let it sit til next filter cleaning.
Ignoring the fact the car needed a new TPMS sensor, yes, under-inflated tires will worsen gas mileage. They make the car more difficult to move and this creates a drag on the engine.
I've had two Toyotas with TPMS and they failed at 85,000 and 100,000 miles. Its about $1000 to fix the TPMS system - no thanks! I'll just buy a $5 air pressure gauge and check the tire pressure regularly (including the spare if its a full-sized one).
Reoiling K&N filters are tricky. I'v been using them in my motorcycle and cars for years. Never had an issue with mass air sensor. Take your time reoiling and wipe off any access oil.
When I reoil my K&N filter I always let it dry over night, that way the oil doesn’t get into the MAF. Then plop it back in. Never had an issue with it. People who say K&N are junk are the ones who aren’t competent of following simple directions. Don’t drench the filter completely of oil to the point it starts dripping.
@@SChecoP11 yeah, I never had any issues with mine, the engine seemed a bit peppier and the kids at the oil change places stopped bothering me about my filters.
@@SChecoP11 I hear ya. Been running one in my 89 mustang GT for almost 25 yrs, no issues. As you said, the problem is most people think more is better so when it's time to re-oil it, they just saturate it with oil & slap it back in the air box. Stay safe, ☮️
Thanks Scotty . I have a K&N air filter in my 2000 Toyota Tacoma SR5 pre runner . I'll change it over now after watching your Vid . The filter was in the truck when i bought it 8 months ago from a used car lot . I paid $4200 cash and had 240,000 on it . I have put a couple grand into it . Tires , Shocks , upper and lower ball joints . But it's a good running engine with no leaks .V6
He was talking about the sensor specifically. He mentions bad batteries in the sensors. I don't think the car is actually being driven with low tire pressure.
I had the same MAF sensor problem on an '03 F150 within a couple of days of installing a K&N filter. Followed the directions so I don't think it was over-oiled. Who knows? Took a while to figure out, but once I did, I retunred it and went back to a stock paper filter after cleaning the MAF sensor. No problems since. Change it every third oil change. 214k miles and climbing!
I used to use these filters. It’s just easier to use paper filters and change it when scheduled. Takes less than a minute to swap it out but when you do those reusable filters to have to wash it, let it dry, and re-oil it before you can drive the car again.
@@hardassteel yeah you buy two of them. One in the car and one ready for the next oil change. It's not rocket science and once you learn how to oil it you won't mess up your maf sensor. Because you do not want to saturate the filter, most people do and then the oil blows buying gets all over the maf sensor. Then they get horrible gas, mileage etc etc😅 This video is complete crap. The air filter in question would get normally one MPG increase. Not to mention you can change it every oil change. Buy two. Million mile filter. So if you have two that's 2 million miles worth of air filters if you don't mistreat it. With one MPG increase at 15,000 mi or so you'll save around $187 a year. So even if you buy two filters at $60 within the first year, just in saving on the fuel you'll still come out ahead by 47. That doesn't include the savings from not having to buy the other filter. Then every year thereafter it only cost you like $4.00 to recharge the filter and that's with the k&n kit. you will save $16 cost of filter minus 4 dollars for cleaning additional plus the $187 in fuel a year because most engine filters are $20 a piece. You want to have the extra filter because if you over oil it cuz you're only supposed to apply the oil to the very peak of the pleat and let it leech the rest of the way down and you don't soak the filter like the individual in your video did as it's almost glowing red not even pink. If the maf sensor does get oil on it, all you have to do is spend another $2 in maf sensor cleaner after you drive about 20 mi you just spray the sensor clean and it's usually easier to get to than the windshield washer fluid. Most of your videos are pretty on point, but this one is so far off par. That its not even funny. If you go to CarMax they have a gas mileage cost calculator so you can compare the vehicle with one mile per gallon increase.
I’ve done some research on those oiled filters. They only provide a negligible performance increase than the best brand paper filter. Amongst the paper filters, I’ve discovered that the WIX air filters are one of the best. I changed the OEM filter to a WIX filter and I immediately noticed a power and performance increase. That’s only because I put in a clean filter. Engines perform well when they can breathe.
This video is complete crap. The air filter in question would get normally one MPG increase. Not to mention you can change it every oil change. Buy two. Million mile filter. So if you have two that's 2 million miles worth of air filters if you don't mistreat it. With one MPG increase at 15,000 mi or so you'll save around $187 a year. So even if you buy two filters at $60 within the first year, just in saving on the fuel you'll still come out ahead by 47. That doesn't include the savings from not having to buy the other filter. Then every year thereafter it only cost you like $4.00 to recharge the filter and that's with the k&n kit. you will save $16 cost of filter minus 4 dollars for cleaning additional plus the $187 in fuel a year because most engine filters are $20 a piece. You want to have the extra filter because if you over oil it cuz you're only supposed to apply the oil to the very peak of the pleat and let it leech the rest of the way down and you don't soak the filter like the individual in your video did as it's almost glowing red not even pink. If the maf sensor does get oil on it, all you have to do is spend another $2 in maf sensor cleaner after you drive about 20 mi you just spray the sensor clean and it's usually easier to get to than the windshield washer fluid. Most of your videos are pretty on point, but this one is so far off par. That its not even funny. If you go to CarMax they have a gas mileage cost calculator so you can compare the vehicle with one mile per gallon increase.
@@gsc512 K&N cai didn’t give me any extra MPG. I really can’t tell a difference. But there is no doubt I didn’t get a gain in gas economy. Two months later I got cat back exhaust. Which also claims to save on gas. Not true in my case. 2020 ram 1500. If anything you lose slightly on mpg because you are always heavy on the throttle loving that engine growl. I also have a tuner and I can gain a couple mpg on the economy tune but the throttle response is slow and not fun to drive. I prefer the 93 octane tune.
@@rickylee2477 if heavy on throttle of course no improvement in mpg but gaining power is a sign of increased mechanical efficiency. Try cleaning the maf sensor as new k and n can ship with heavy oil.
I use a K&N filter in my '99 Acura TL and '18 Camry XLE V-6. I like seeing how much dirt washes out of the filter every 20,000 miles. I put a paper filter in while the K&N dries.
I had a 2008 RAV-4, and the TPMS light came on...every tire was fine. Don't know why I called the dealership anymore, but I mentioned it to them and they said to check the pressure in the spare tire. And whatta ya know!!! That tire was low. So yes, it could be a bad sensor OR it might just be the spare tire... (FYI)
Jeff Diggs Are you sure that the spare tire (still in the trunk) is hooked to the TPMS system? I would love for Scotty to explain We have a 2009 Civic and have concerns with TPMS.
Yes, spare has a sensor. My highlander is the same. Its a full size rim and tire mounted underneath the back. Goes off with drastic temperature changes too.
@@mardyneszelc9771 this was a full size spare mounted to the tailgate. Temp spares in the trunk would not have one. This was also the first vehicle I owned that had a TPMS on the spare.
@@jeffdiggs6318 I've learned something, never owned an SUV didn't realize you would have a full size spare, unlike a car. So you're spare does connect to the TPMS system. Thanks.
@@mardyneszelc9771 Only the more full sized cars have a actual big spare tire, all of the smaller cars have the emergency spare and do not have a tpms valve on them.
@@giveme10feet everything on the vehicle should warn you of lung poisoning, brake cleaner, engine oil transmission fluid. Any of those breathed in can cause lung damage. Just saying and if you're driving and you smell that warm vehicle smell your breathing that stuff in. FYI since your lung is matter
I've owned my 2.3l 4cyl over 12 years, over 9 years with a reusable K&N engine air filters and (knock on wood) I've never had an issue with mine. I clean and oil evenly quarterly and so far so good.
That's just it. People get these filters thinking they're good forever and just neglect them or they don't pay attention to filter care and drown them in oil.
I clean mine once a year and haven’t had any issues. I agree people either never change them, completely soak them in oil, don’t know how to clean them, or who knows what. It’s not that hard. K&N has a simple video explaining how to clean them.
I'm an original owner of an 09 Accord 4 cylinder with 238k+ miles on it, slapped on a K&N since the car was brand new. I get 460 miles on a full tank of gas, no issues. I only use paper air filter (still on the original from the factory) when I clean and re-oil. The key is doing it properly, not to overdo applying oil and make sure the cotton layer evenly absorbs the oil.
I have used K&N air filters on my Explorer for years and I clean them every time I change the oil. I also clean the MAF. Never had a problem with K&N. You are correct that too much oil can cause performance. So, I am careful about how much I spray on. Thanks for your excellent productions - Always enjoy them..........
@@senorbonbon Like I said, I clean mine every time I change the oil (Castrol Edge 20W50) every 3500-4000 miles. However, if you are not in a really dusty environment - maybe once a year would do but at lease every 30K miles. K&N has a spray on oil which works great. For cleaning, I soak in Purple Power for about an hour or two, then rinse well. From there into a Dawn water bath which lifts out the rest of the dirt and oil. Then rinse and air dry.
@wut something Some mechanics work with you but don't guarantee parts you bring to them. 1999 Mirage 2 door DE Coupe 1.5 engine/automatic. Got the "NEW" injector set wholesale for $35.00 from China on E-bay and another $50 bucks to install them & it took him less than a half hour to do it + the car had over 200k miles on it at the time too. The car's been running smoother & like a dream ever since too.
I Disagree Scotty. I've used K&N filters for many many years on my Toyotas, Kia's, etc. Never had a problem. I've never seen oil contamination issues if you follow the simple clean and oil procedure. They last the life of the vehicle, filter better than paper filters, and improve air flow significantly. And, you only need to clean them every 50,000 miles.
Filtration is not good for K&N, which is why airflow is better. They are well made though but anything other than racing applications is not the best use for them.
When I got my truck it had a k&n and there was so much oil on it and under it it left like a 1/4 in of grime in the air box I won’t go with one for that reason u less it’s on a cold air intake and properly oiled and cleaned u gotta use the right amount of oil and their easy to over oil
I find that when the seasons change always requires air in the tires. Say summer to fall will find tires being 5 to 7 lbs low. And the change happens in week. Just something I've run across when I check my tires twice a month.
Mass air flow sensor is fine. If it was messed up, you would get CEL. With that mileage, it likely just needs a good fuel system cleaning as Scotty suggested. The TPMS sensor light was on. Did Scotty check the tire pressure? That could explain some of the mileage loss as well. I've run K&N filters for hundreds of thousands of miles on car without any issues. They don't provide any mileage or horsepower benefit, but if you replace a paper filter every 10,000 miles, you can spend a lot of money on air filters or just one K&N.
This is simply untrue lmao, it'll only throw a code if there's a complete or extreme failure of the maf. If it's simply dirty or on it's way out you're not going to get any codes.
The reason your air flow sensor was malfunctioning is, wait for it...you are using way too much oil when you re-oil the K&N filter after cleaning it (Ding-Ding-Ding what do we have for him, Johnnie?)...I have used K&N air filters on my vehicles for years and never have any problems, just increased fuel mileage and more HP.
I've heard that K&N filters are controversual but I love them myself for how they flow. That said they supposedly don't filter quite as well as a paper filter and they can oil up the MAF sensor if you over oil them. Personally I never had any problems on two cars that I fitted K&Ns to (both Vauhall Opel Cavalier / Vectra 2.0 L petrol). The car that showed the most noticeable improvement in performance was an a old 1986 Citroen Visa 17RD (Diesel, no turbo). Well, you can laugh but it was an excellent car that gave me 55 mpg (UK) seemingly however I drove it. It was a very unfashionable nicotine brown colour 😁😁
I've noticed that too and his unusual lifestyle of going back and forth. Gotta love that "Live Free or Die" sign. Maybe he should move to New Hampshire.
I use k&n filters, mainly because I drive regularly in very dusty conditions for my job. I may have to replace filters 2 times per oil change. I clean it regularly and oil it per instructions and I personally think I get better than oem.
I put a K & N air filter in my 1999 Jaguar 4 years ago. Car runs more responsive. I clean every other oil change. Be careful not to over oil it. If you do, just clean the MAF with MAF spray cleaner. Also, if your engine oil gets dirty fast, that tells you to check the air filter. Follow that and engine won't get damaged due to particles passing thru the air filter. Always liked Scotty!
I've used a K&N in my F-150 for more than a decade. No problems. I used one for 5 years in my GTI. No problems. I just bought a Golf R and put a K&N in it. I'm confident it won't cause any problems.
7:39 my first car was a 90 Acura Legend with 150k miles, and only cost $500. It didn't come with a key to the locking lug nuts installed. Took it to an Acura dealer, and they gave me a key that fit the lug nuts for free.
I have used K & N in motorcycles, cars, vans, trucks and have never had any issue since the 1980’s. The K & N cabin filter has a strong odor new, after a week it is fine, no smell. You have to use K & N air filter oil and not over saturate the filter. I have had no problems and in cars, vans, motorcycles and trucks at all with K & N.
toyota bought out one of the best motor manufacturers in japan (daihatsu, who had been building BETTER powerplants for nearly 100 years) and then pulled the plug on all the service and parts operations associated with this maker only 10 years years later, leaving about 3500 owners high and dry. 3500 units across the USA supposedly threatened toyota's profit margin! i will never buy a toyota product- their products are comparatively stodgy, anyway
FYI, my 2010 rav4 had the tire pressure issue also, drove me crazy, finely checked the spare, yep it has a sensor and was at 20psi, go figure, good luck
@@WCGwkf lmao dude only problem i got with it is the air ride and thats an aftermarket part..other than that no major problems at ALL. DRIVE LIKE ITS NEW STILL. BECAUSE I CHANGED MY OIL ON TIME AND I PUT INTAKE INSTEAD.
Just a comment on the "Bonus Questions & Answers" re: Accura Legend. I have a friend who bought a pretty one, 260K miles, looked good inside and out (well-kept) and he got it cheap ($1500). Fell in love with it! SO: he called Jasper (the engine company), got a completely torn down & rebuilt AS-NEW motor put in (trans checked out fine) with a 36,000 mile nationwide warranty with roadside assistance, a few other repairs like shocks and bushings, had the paint "color sanded" and for $9000 total the guy has a gorgeous daily driver he LOVES. We're too quick to write off old good cars. Not every car is worth it - the Legend definitely IS, a NorthStar Cadillac not so much - but we're too quick to throw away stuff lately. Even Scotty with his "lives forever" Toyota and Lexus.
Decided to dump the Jiffy lube and do my own Corolla. OEM recommended full synth and paper filter. Ran it on the Freeway. The motor sounds better at idle. No tappet type of noise any longer. How about that!
I replaced my stock with a K&N air filter and have had no issues at all. Runs so good with it, actually, but I know not all situations are the same. Perhaps they put too much cleaner solution on it?
I'm not a fan of those air filters either like Scotty. My experience has been they allow too much dirt to pass through them. After all, when you hold an air filter up to the light and you could see light through it, why would you think dirt wouldn't come through were the light does? Having used oil analysis done backs up what I just said, the silicone levels were higher than normal. Changed to paper air filter, problem solved.
@@rigdoc3948 Of course not. The human eye cannot see light in the smallest particle. What I don't like is an air filter that has big enough holes where I can see through it, that will allow dirt to pass through it. To me, gaining possibly one or two extra horsepower at the cost of sucking dirt into the engine simply isn't worth it but to each their own.
@@Len1977gt I also have used them for a number of years with no obvious issues. When used oil analysis shows elevated levels of silicon (dirt) in the oil, that becomes alarming because getting dirt in the oil is never a good idea.
'98 Camry, 247k, bought it in '03 with 74k, V6, 5sp. Dropped in a K&N soon as I got it. Cleaned it last week FOR THE FIRST TIME (unless I did it, like, ten years ago and didn't write it down...). Gas mileage was still around 27 to 30 mpg cruising cross country on back roads at about 65 to 75 mph, passing from time to time to time. In other words, K&N still doin' it's job. Cleaned it thusly: Filter dirty side down in kitchen sink (didn't tell my wife...), squirted it liberally with Castrol Super Clean de-greaser (K&N cleaner ain't nothin' but rebranded Windex), hit it with HOT water from sink tap. Repeat until you're not getting anymore dirt from filter. Mine took 5 or 6 times. Let it air dry--no forced air, please. When dry, oil it very lightly, then put it in the sun to get the oil warm and wick through the filter, and leave it there for a day (I know, pita...). Look for a nice, uniform pink color over the entire filter. Touch it up lightly where needed, then put it back in the sun. When it's that nice uniform pink color, yer good to go. Moderation in oiling and patience are key. Oh yeah, still on the original clutch, motor runs like a watch, not a drop of oil useage, 6k oil and filter changes, full syn and Baldwin oil filter--made in Nebraska, baby! GO SCOTTY!!
I've had the same issue using the KN filters in my 08 Impala. They really do mess with the mass air flow sensor. Drove with one for a few years with odd issues then went back to the oem filter last year and it drives better than it ever did.
I got a toyota camry, change the air filter to a kn. Drove 5,0345, cleaned the filter twice. I have 117942 getting ready to change the plugs, with the tune up I checked the mass. Pulled it out and it was as clean as a washed dinner plate. At 117 thousand I believe it has never pulled out of the vehicle however I cleaned it any way. The point is the oil on the kn filter stays on the filter, I have never had trouble with oil coating the mass from the kn filter
Drove my focus for 3yrs with K&N and never had any issue. I lived in a small city with low pollution very low dust sometimes zero because it rains most of the time. My engine bay is spotless even after 2 weeks without cleaning.
I watched a comparative air filter test recently on TH-cam. Those K&N filters were about the worst for the amount of dirt they removed from the incoming air. The issue was even worse if they weren't oiled properly (and it appears oiling them introduces problems of its own). The tester recommended avoiding fancy filters, buying OEM paper ones and changing them at recommended intervals.
@Dan The car guy Who, me? Being a "motorsport mechanic" doesn't strengthen the value of your opinion, I'm afraid. In motorsport, one needs the maximum amount of airflow into an engine. Racing engines are often run without any form of air cleaner to increase airflow. Performance is all that counts and longevity is not a consideration - engines are stripped regularly and any damage rectified. What works on the track does not necessarily work for long term everyday use.
been using K&N filter for years, 97 mustang GT and recently 2004 explorer. also have 2016 sentra (manual) using Paper filters. Neither vehicles with oiled filters are having any problems. Both older vehicles were bought used and already had the K&N on them, the factory airboxes were gone so returning to paper not in my future. I would never waste money switching from factory air intake to CAI with K&N filters though.
I have three Mustang convertibles, all with K&N filters, and have never had a problem. Clean them out at regular intervals and let the oil dry before you put them back in. It is a vert good product and, when maintained properly, will last longer than the life of the car.
You are correct. Had one in an 05 Chevy. One day I cleaned the filter, and I'm waiting for the new oil to dry so I could put it back in and I'm thinking,why? When my mass air flow sensor went out, I replaced it and went back to OEM filters.
I have a K&N filter in my Jaguar S Type V6 and no problem so far. MAF sensor is fine after 10.000km and i would say jaguars are one of the most sensitive cars when it comes to aftermarket changes, especially with sensors and stuff like that. I cant say much about engine wear, it doesn't look like it has any problem so i give it the benefit of the doubt. Now i got an S Type R and will install K&N next weekend, the R has the same filter as the small eninges and i assume their is even more potential for bether airflow, but we will see. It sounds nice though, probably the first difference you notice after installing.
My Dad laughed at me when I got a K&N filter. He is a mechanical engineer from West Texas and said you can't beat a disposable filter changed often. Ii could feel improved throttle response, but eventually did have to clean the MAF sensor with that spray they make fer it.
Scotty talks like a doctor when he sees that data. A true sign of a pro. "Dr. Kilmer" has written a prescription: "Take two bottles of injector cleaner and call me in the morning!"
I once installed a K&N air filter on a 2002 Nissan Maxima and a few days later my MAF sensor failed and my vehicle died while driving down the highway. Vehicle was towed to Nissan by AAA. In Nissan’s write-up they claimed that the K&N filter was the cause of the MAF failure. I called K&N and sent them the paperwork from Nissan stating their filter was the cause of the failure and surprisingly K&N actually paid Nissan for the parts and labor to replace the MAF sensor!! Pretty cool of them. Regardless, I still haven’t bought another K&N filter for any of my vehicles since then.
Scotty you just keep blessing us with this super helpful information, like always this guy has save me a ton of money, probably the main reason my 2011 durango 3.6L has over 175,000 miles no engine light or problems , and i know for a fact its from your tips and tricks, i thank u like always!!
I just want to say that I like and pay attention to all that Scott says. My wife owns a 2008 rav4 and any issues I have will be asked to Scott Kilmer. He is a fantastic mechanic
I put one of those oil air filters in my 02 Monte Carlo and the gas mileage is better than factory ratings. No issue after a couple of yrs. So I put one in the wife's 04 Monte. It has more miles on it and engine runs better than mine.
Dropped a k&n in my work van that I used for transportation. I got and extra 60 miles per tank of gas with it. It was the same drive everyday so I know for sure it got better gas mileage.
Scotty mentions the owner poured in some fuel injector cleaner and filled it up with super unleaded. Doesn't Scotty recommend against using super unless the vehicle is designed for it?
I've been running them for years on my 04 and 03 benzes and they certainly do trap a lot of dirt and I need to be clean so obviously they they do work but they do need to be clean and properly oiled
AEM dry-flo filter was developed by AEM and K&N to be hi-flo, washable, and doesn't require filter oil. Lasts indefinitely and can be cleaned as often as you wish. I use one on my 4.0 tacoma prerunner(oem style).
I use Techron cleaner twice a year, but I fill up with Chevron (contains Techron as well) This way it should work better. Also I've read the same thing about the K&N many times that is why I did not buy one for my latest car.
Hi Scotty ! Easy on the NorthStar , You know the pre 2006 NS's , have a head bolt fix ! MY 2006 , with 135K , runs like racecar ! Just need to keep it CLEAN ! AND RUN THE HELL OUT OF IT ! W .O. T. no Grany !
Scotty, I love your advice. On this car I would, first, clean the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Then, I would recheck the MAS readings. If if they stabilized, great. If not, I would change the sensor. Also, what are the upstream O2 sensor voltage readings? If they are low, then the sensors are old and producing a low voltage, which causes the ECM to lengthen the fuel injector pulse, making the engine runs rich.
When I ran a K&N, after cleaning and spraying with oil I use to put it in plastic bag and shake the hell out of it to get rid of the excess oil. Got sick of cleaning it so went back to paper.
See my findings: I,actually got tired of messing / spraying/drying,cleaning etc. Interestingly, more comfortable with OEM FILTERS, AND looks more my dust area, driving is safer now... Cannot imagine less restrictions extrapolates to more dust removed( many times my KN WERE filthy quick.....thouhg NEVER HAD MAF PROBLEMS.........???? ( knowlingly).
@@Sir...... it depends on the car really, soem cars have the MAF much closer to the filters. I oil both side and let it sit a few hours to soak up the oil and then I wipe the excess oil, 300k later I never had a problem but these do require vigilance, especially if you do a lot of highway driving, they will get dirty fast.
@@brolyv5802 Oh god please don't do that lol, the whole point of the K&N is to keep it forever but they get dirtier much quicker. I have to clean mine twice pert oil change interval because I do a lot of highway driving. Go to your car now and clean it before its too late.
Interestingly, I used K&;N FOAM FILTERS, carefully in WARSAW INDIANA; some three vehicles::::: APPROX MILES MEMORY::1997 Dodge Intrepid HIPO V6@ some 120,000 miles, 2007 CANYONGMC @ 120,000 ,2015 JOURNEY 4 CYL@40,000 & had no noticeable issues ( MAF,DIRTY OIL,ETC?) .. Actually, with high INVESTIGATIONS, dust and dirt loads relocating to HELENA VALLEY MT SWITCHED TO OEM AIR FILTERS, ALWAYS.........does” appear” gas mileages may be “ slightly” lower in overall....however appears may catch more Dust/ dirts......@20,000 miles a year. .....anyways in summary :: it could,be hard to **(find))* fault OEM Engineers with these areas of flow/overall performances/ engine life. .....
We see the things he says about GM match the Fords we're seeing the last several years, and people around here, in town, love their GMs. I realize each have their own good and bad, but the amount of work and shop time for some of the Ford guys around here is horrible, and people grab the used GMs from each other around here because they have been cared for and very reliable. But I respect his opinion for where he is for what he sees, it's just a LOT different around here and with so many others I talk to. Even the all brands shops around here say they get less GMs in than the others. Go figure, could be bias for them and him, but to each their own.
@@kirstenspencer3630 I know that. I am not thinking that the PCV is blowing oil onto the MAF sensor. I am thinking that if there is excessive blow-by, you will see an excess of oil steam purging out of the PCV outlet. Disconnect the PCV-to-intake hose and check it for higher-than-normal purging. If the rings are worn, that could contribute to lowered fuel economy.
Yes I had too much oil on my k&n in my crosstrek. Don't put a lot of oil just enough to make it red but I've had them in 6 of my cars for years each. Love them and have saved so much money and gas milage. Thankfully the 6 months I had too much oil didn't damage anything in the crosstrek that was 4yrs ago nothing so far.
The K&N filter is not an "oil filter." It is an air filter - it filters air. Specifically, it is an _engine air filter,_ - as opposed to a _cabin air filter._ It may have some oil in it, but that does not make it an oil filter. Many years ago, when Scotty was a young mechanic, and I wasn't born yet, cars had that they called _oil-bath_ air filters. The filter consisted of some sort of rather coarse plant fibers, the bottom of which was immersed in a bath of oil. As you drove along and bounced along, oil would splash around and moisten the fibers, which would enable them to filter out smaller particles. Instead of changing the filter, you could simply replace the oil, along with all the particles that had fallen into it when it splashed over the fibers.
VW beetle air cooled engines used them. Last units rolled off the assembly lines in South America in the 2000's. Yes, they worked, and yes, the.oil bath needed changed out from time to time.
@@RemoteViewr1 Yup. I think the last few years of Mexican air cooled VW's, around 2003 I think, used paper oil filters, but in the US, right up until 1974 or so - oil bath. While US cars started using alternators around 1960 or so, VW did not go from generator to alternator until around 1973! Don't know why. Alternator makes a substantial improvement over generator at low engine RPMs. Doesn't really cost any more either. Plenty of room in the engine bay for an alternator. So why did VW take so long to catch up with the rest of the world? Who knows. Now, the oil bath air filter on the VW worked very nicely. Replacing oil was cheaper than replacing paper filter element. And I would think that oil bath unit would cost VW _much more money_ to manufacture than a paper element filter. Very complexly shaped heavy sheet metal. Paper element filter is a simple plastic box. So why did VW take so long? I have no idea. On the other hand, In regard to fuel injection, VW switched their air-cooled engines from carburetion to fuel injection _earlier_ than most other cars! Around 1976 or so. My 1982 Honda Accord had an overall much more sophisticated engine than the VW air cooled engine. But it still had a carburetor.
My Ford Transit van gets 200 miles to just half a tank of gas. It has the 310 hp twin turbo EcoBoost engine. WOOHOO! I have the K&N filter. My van is 5 years old. P.S. I really like your intro in the red sports car.
I added a K&N filter shortly after buying my 07 RAV4 3.5L. Ran fine but from the start there were throttle response and shift problems (5 sp auto trans). I cleaned the throttle throat had buildup of gasoline varnish built up around the butterfly valve. The butterfly was actually sticking some so that when I opened the throttle, I did not get immediate response. The valve would only pop open when I pressed the gas peddle to a certain point, at which I got less than the gradual opening of throttle I wanted. After cleaning off the varnish, the subtle throttle was restored. But I didn't clean the MAF. I'd cleaned the K&N filter once, being sure to get as much oil out of the filter as I could. Then I saw on one of Scotty's videos how easy it was to clean the MAF in most Toyotas. I sacrificed $10 at the altar of Autozone for enough MAF cleaner to last a hundred cleanings. I cleaned the MAF for the first time - about a year and a half after purchasing the car and installing the K&N filter, spraying the cleaner every place including the little pitot tube in the base of the MAF. The difference was immediately noticeable. The throttle response was as good as it gets. But and unexpected effect was the car shifted better. What I thought might have been an automatic transmission issue may have been an engine issue instead. This isn't too hard to imagine as the engine, airflow, and transmission shifting all go through the car's computer. Maybe there's some kind of link between airflow (monitored by the MAF) and the transmission shifting points. It will be interesting to see if Scotty does any further testing of the K&N filter. Now that I have a can of MAF cleaner, and the fact the MAF is so easy to remove and clean, I'm not going to worry about the K&N polluting the MAF. I'll just take the 5 minutes it takes to clean it every few months.
Most folk absolutely douche the K&N (as well as copy cats) with the oil and it gets pulled down the tract and then coats the mass airflow sensor and throttle body...awesome job, folks
i wouldn't blame it on the air filter...for me, it's either 1. tyre pressure is underpressured, increasing FC 2. the car got old...at that kind of mileage, you'll surely experience FC gone a little worse 3. change the fuel filter if it's never been changed before
We'llll... I've been running K&N air intake filters for a few decades and YES, if you over-oil them your car's MAF sensor will get oily and screwed up and dirty as hell. SO... be SURE to only re-oil just enough to get it all looking pinkish red (after thoroughly cleaning and drying the filter).
Scotty, love your videos! I have used K&N air filters in all my cars & trucks for decades. To clean, I spray degreaser on them, spray-rinse them out with a garden hose & tap them dry. Because of the MAF sensor I DO NOT RE-OIL them. Never an engine problem. Same for friends & family whom I've converted over to using K&Ns.
Tire pressure monitor system is not working, well tire pressure alone can effect fuel mileage greatly. Scotty's absolutely correct about the injectors getting dirty and not spraying a good pattern for optimum atomization so all the fuel burns efficiently. They will squirt a solid stream and a lot of the fuel goes out the tailpipe. I like Seafoam to clean them. I have a high performance motorcycle and it was gumming up the throttle bodies so bad the throttle wouldn't snap back closed which is bad when you have 175 hp on a motorcycle and it had all sorts of hard carbon deposits in the intake runners and back of the valves, after running a couple tanks of Seafoam added to the gas it is completely clean where the fuel hits it and no more sticky throttle plates.
I've been told don't oil the "inside" of the filter, that is what's facing the throttle body. Only oil the "outside" which is what atmosphere air is going against.
I had a Lexus IS350. Bought a new K&N air filter and my check engine light came on after a few days. The dealership said it was because of the K&N air filter that contaminated the MAF sensor. Put the OEM one back on and it ran great after that.
I got a K&N air filter long time now the car had quicker response but was putting too much oil and it interfered with MAF but rides nice with over 368,000 miles 3G Eclipse
![The ULTIMATE Air Filter Test [Engineer Tested]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RdbFAG5xbyY/mqdefault.jpg)
![The ULTIMATE Air Filter Test [Engineer Tested]](/img/tr.png)
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Yeah Scotty! Great Advice!
Hey Scotty! Awesome video! Can't wait for more, every time I see one I light up in joy!
@@shaneslane hello and thank you!
I do not know why, but I miss your old house!
@@scottykilmer hey would you tell us why is it in Tick-Tock app your comment sección is not allowing us write a comment ??? Thanks 🙏
I've been using K&N for decades in every vehicle I've owned. The trick is to not abuse while cleaning or over oil the element. After applying the oil, put the filter on an absorbent paper towel, or wrap one around it, where the towel is in contact with the mesh, and leave it in a warm place. Replace the towels for as long as it takes to stop getting oil residue seeping into the paper. When you've been using these K&N things long enough, you get a feel for what the right amount of oil is, and the process time of cleaning and re-oiling gets shorter, and cheaper in the long run. Doing this prevents contaminating the MAF. I have a paper filter that I use and store in a ziplock bag to install in the air box while I'm waiting for the oil to set and allows me to use the car. That same paper filter has been around for 15 years and serves as a backup only. Be gentle on these elements, and they'll last a very long time and makes the effort very economical.
Yes the paper ones are safer and filter better, but I, like yourself, use K&n on everything including my big rig. Once you figure how much oil to use and you let them rest like you said they last a long time and are not as messy. I still love them
I just buy new K&N filters when they need to be replaced, because I don't trust myself to oil one properly. Buying a new filter actually isn't much more expensive than cleaning your filter. The oiling/cleaning products from K&N aren't cheap, and you have to consider your time and energy. It's also a lot easier!
@@DDDYLN How often do you replace? That's a good idea probably.
@@riekopo7638 that's a good question. According to K&N, you only have to do it like every 60,000 to 70,000 miles. However, I don't drive much, and my Xterra has only gone up about 15,000 to 20,000 miles in 7 years. I think I might replace the K&N filter just for peace of mind, even though there's only been 25,000 miles max on it since intallation.
I do the same exact thing with my K&N
I've used K&N air filters in my vehicles since the early 80's. Never ruined a mass air flow sensor or destroyed the rings or cylinder walls from the demon K&N air filters. Well over half a million miles with no trouble. I'm not a lucky person by nature.
Same here. You can't blame the filter if somebody over oils it or doesn't give it some dry time before reinstalling. I laugh at the people who buy paper filter after paper filter after paper filter. Buy a K&N and it'll outlast the car
@@catfishbilly7425 I clean my K&N filter and oil it every 10,000 miles. the recommendation is every 50,000 miles for regular sized filters. the larger filters is every 100,000 miles.
@@Lincolnator721 I clean mine every 15-20k. Use K&N air filter oil for my Nitro powered R/C car's air filter too lol
Same
I'd use one if I didn't live in a dusty environment. Tiny dust particles that a paper filter will catch will go straight through a K&N and end up in the oil.
If the police ever put handcuffs on Scotty, they'll never get a word out of him.
LOL, good one.
Italian handcuffs, lol
@@51249ca Yeah, if he gets an interrogation from the NAZI's... V. haf veys to make you tok Skotty!! (Scotty) Don't worry, I'll talk, I'll talk.
You’re…not wrong 😁
Uh, can someone explain this for me?
The problem a lot of people have with K&N filters is that they don’t wait long enough to clean and reoil them. Realistically, then entire process will take 6-8 hours. You need to let the cleaner soak in for about half an hour at a minimum and then after rinsing it, let the filter sit in the sun for for at least 2-3hrs before oiling. And you don’t want to put on too much oil, just enough so you will see the filter media turn pink (assuming your oil is red) then let it dry for another 2-3 hours before adding potentially more oil if you’re seeing any white or gray unoiled filter. And then let sit another 2 hours or so.
So I kept my car’s OEM paper filter for the once a year when I’ll have to clean and reoil my K&N filter (either vacuum seal if or just put it in a ziplock bag to keep excess moisture out). As for my motorcycle, I just bought an extra K&N filter so when I need to swap it, I just unbolt old filter, install the clean oiled one and then clean the old one, letting it dry for about 2x the time I mentioned earlier, since I won’t be under a time crunch (weather is good and I wanna ride).
I have two K&N filters. I just swap them out every 30k miles so I can clean properly and re oil. Then I placed the cleaned re oiled filter back in the box the replacement came in and. Let it sit til next filter cleaning.
Yeah that's a ridiculous amount of work
@@el34glo59 it’s not really that much work, just a lot of waiting for things to dry
@@el34glo59 it is , but it’s a lifetime filter. It will save you money in the long run. Actually it will save you money with the first few years .
How do you clean the K&N filters that don't use oil?
Low air in the tires warning is what makes my vehicles gas mileage drop.
mine as well.
Yeah but this car's warning is because of old batteries in the TPMS sensors, not underinflated tires.
No it’s that the tire sensor in broken and the tire in fine.
Ignoring the fact the car needed a new TPMS sensor, yes, under-inflated tires will worsen gas mileage. They make the car more difficult to move and this creates a drag on the engine.
I've had two Toyotas with TPMS and they failed at 85,000 and 100,000 miles. Its about $1000 to fix the TPMS system - no thanks! I'll just buy a $5 air pressure gauge and check the tire pressure regularly (including the spare if its a full-sized one).
Reoiling K&N filters are tricky. I'v been using them in my motorcycle and cars for years. Never had an issue with mass air sensor. Take your time reoiling and wipe off any access oil.
When I had one, it took quite a while to clean and reoil. Had to make sure I wasn't planning to drive anywhere for a while.
When I reoil my K&N filter I always let it dry over night, that way the oil doesn’t get into the MAF. Then plop it back in. Never had an issue with it. People who say K&N are junk are the ones who aren’t competent of following simple directions. Don’t drench the filter completely of oil to the point it starts dripping.
@@SChecoP11 yeah, I never had any issues with mine, the engine seemed a bit peppier and the kids at the oil change places stopped bothering me about my filters.
@@SChecoP11 I hear ya. Been running one in my 89 mustang GT for almost 25 yrs, no issues. As you said, the problem is most people think more is better so when it's time to re-oil it, they just saturate it with oil & slap it back in the air box. Stay safe, ☮️
@@rm2kmidi , have a cheap, back up filter just in case. No need to replace if use only for one-day purpose.
Thanks Scotty . I have a K&N air filter in my 2000 Toyota Tacoma SR5 pre runner . I'll change it over now after watching your Vid . The filter was in the truck when i bought it 8 months ago from a used car lot . I paid $4200 cash and had 240,000 on it . I have put a couple grand into it . Tires , Shocks , upper and lower ball joints . But it's a good running engine with no leaks .V6
Can you imagine my surprise this past summer when I was in my driveway here in Pennsylvania washing my Toyota when Scotty popped out of my trunk.
Tire pressure does affect ur gas/mileage performance, directly or indirectly.
He was talking about the sensor specifically. He mentions bad batteries in the sensors. I don't think the car is actually being driven with low tire pressure.
@@steelonius he quoted: " tire pressure doesnt affect milieage"
Don't believe everything he says! Increasing the pressure to the max-load value does REDUCE rolling resistance thereby giving improved economy.
@@charlieskids4348 exactly!
@James M we do love Scotty however we always try to find areas where we can "tease" him. Smile man, smile! :)
I had the same MAF sensor problem on an '03 F150 within a couple of days of installing a K&N filter. Followed the directions so I don't think it was over-oiled. Who knows? Took a while to figure out, but once I did, I retunred it and went back to a stock paper filter after cleaning the MAF sensor. No problems since. Change it every third oil change. 214k miles and climbing!
I used to use these filters. It’s just easier to use paper filters and change it when scheduled. Takes less than a minute to swap it out but when you do those reusable filters to have to wash it, let it dry, and re-oil it before you can drive the car again.
@@hardassteel yeah you buy two of them. One in the car and one ready for the next oil change. It's not rocket science and once you learn how to oil it you won't mess up your maf sensor. Because you do not want to saturate the filter, most people do and then the oil blows buying gets all over the maf sensor. Then they get horrible gas, mileage etc etc😅
This video is complete crap.
The air filter in question would get normally one MPG increase. Not to mention you can change it every oil change. Buy two. Million mile filter. So if you have two that's 2 million miles worth of air filters if you don't mistreat it. With one MPG increase at 15,000 mi or so you'll save around $187 a year. So even if you buy two filters at $60 within the first year, just in saving on the fuel you'll still come out ahead by 47. That doesn't include the savings from not having to buy the other filter. Then every year thereafter it only cost you like $4.00 to recharge the filter and that's with the k&n kit. you will save $16 cost of filter minus 4 dollars for cleaning additional plus the $187 in fuel a year because most engine filters are $20 a piece. You want to have the extra filter because if you over oil it cuz you're only supposed to apply the oil to the very peak of the pleat and let it leech the rest of the way down and you don't soak the filter like the individual in your video did as it's almost glowing red not even pink. If the maf sensor does get oil on it, all you have to do is spend another $2 in maf sensor cleaner after you drive about 20 mi you just spray the sensor clean and it's usually easier to get to than the windshield washer fluid. Most of your videos are pretty on point, but this one is so far off par. That its not even funny.
If you go to CarMax they have a gas mileage cost calculator so you can compare the vehicle with one mile per gallon increase.
I’ve done some research on those oiled filters. They only provide a negligible performance increase than the best brand paper filter. Amongst the paper filters, I’ve discovered that the WIX air filters are one of the best. I changed the OEM filter to a WIX filter and I immediately noticed a power and performance increase. That’s only because I put in a clean filter. Engines perform well when they can breathe.
This video is complete crap.
The air filter in question would get normally one MPG increase. Not to mention you can change it every oil change. Buy two. Million mile filter. So if you have two that's 2 million miles worth of air filters if you don't mistreat it. With one MPG increase at 15,000 mi or so you'll save around $187 a year. So even if you buy two filters at $60 within the first year, just in saving on the fuel you'll still come out ahead by 47. That doesn't include the savings from not having to buy the other filter. Then every year thereafter it only cost you like $4.00 to recharge the filter and that's with the k&n kit. you will save $16 cost of filter minus 4 dollars for cleaning additional plus the $187 in fuel a year because most engine filters are $20 a piece. You want to have the extra filter because if you over oil it cuz you're only supposed to apply the oil to the very peak of the pleat and let it leech the rest of the way down and you don't soak the filter like the individual in your video did as it's almost glowing red not even pink. If the maf sensor does get oil on it, all you have to do is spend another $2 in maf sensor cleaner after you drive about 20 mi you just spray the sensor clean and it's usually easier to get to than the windshield washer fluid. Most of your videos are pretty on point, but this one is so far off par. That its not even funny.
If you go to CarMax they have a gas mileage cost calculator so you can compare the vehicle with one mile per gallon increase.
@@gsc512 K&N cai didn’t give me any extra MPG. I really can’t tell a difference. But there is no doubt I didn’t get a gain in gas economy.
Two months later I got cat back exhaust. Which also claims to save on gas. Not true in my case. 2020 ram 1500.
If anything you lose slightly on mpg because you are always heavy on the throttle loving that engine growl.
I also have a tuner and I can gain a couple mpg on the economy tune but the throttle response is slow and not fun to drive. I prefer the 93 octane tune.
@@rickylee2477 if heavy on throttle of course no improvement in mpg but gaining power is a sign of increased mechanical efficiency. Try cleaning the maf sensor as new k and n can ship with heavy oil.
@@rickylee2477 need a tune
@@rickylee2477 CAI isn't for mpg increases homie
I use a K&N filter in my '99 Acura TL and '18 Camry XLE V-6. I like seeing how much dirt washes out of the filter every 20,000 miles. I put a paper filter in while the K&N dries.
Does it come out black
20k miles is a lot, filters cost $5 at Walmart
@@haider7866 : Greyish.
Having roamed Texas for centuries, Scotty the legend is straddling Tennessee now_Go Scotty!
😂
It's to get away from all the Californians.
and he is back in texas to film this video...
1860: If you don't buy Toyota horses you're stupid
@@goofyahhmans he obviously made the video before he left... I'm sure he has plenty of videos he hasn't uploaded yet.
I had a 2008 RAV-4, and the TPMS light came on...every tire was fine. Don't know why I called the dealership anymore, but I mentioned it to them and they said to check the pressure in the spare tire. And whatta ya know!!! That tire was low. So yes, it could be a bad sensor OR it might just be the spare tire... (FYI)
Jeff Diggs Are you sure that the spare tire (still in the trunk) is hooked to the TPMS system? I would love for Scotty to explain
We have a 2009 Civic and have concerns with TPMS.
Yes, spare has a sensor. My highlander is the same. Its a full size rim and tire mounted underneath the back. Goes off with drastic temperature changes too.
@@mardyneszelc9771 this was a full size spare mounted to the tailgate.
Temp spares in the trunk would not have one.
This was also the first vehicle I owned that had a TPMS on the spare.
@@jeffdiggs6318 I've learned something, never owned an SUV didn't realize you would have a full size spare, unlike a car. So you're spare does connect to the TPMS system. Thanks.
@@mardyneszelc9771 Only the more full sized cars have a actual big spare tire, all of the smaller cars have the emergency spare and do not have a tpms valve on them.
Cliffnotes: If you overdo the oil on these K&N filters, it will mess with your MAF sensor. Use a AEM DryFlow filter instead, no oil needed.
Also the recharge kit warns of lung poisoning! Sorry, I kinda need my lungs! Good advice.
YOU are the real MVP.
@@giveme10feet Worried about huffing the spray oil. Why? Don't spray in your face.
Also, K&N dont filter micro dust while AEM does.
@@giveme10feet everything on the vehicle should warn you of lung poisoning, brake cleaner, engine oil transmission fluid. Any of those breathed in can cause lung damage. Just saying and if you're driving and you smell that warm vehicle smell your breathing that stuff in. FYI since your lung is matter
I've owned my 2.3l 4cyl over 12 years, over 9 years with a reusable K&N engine air filters and (knock on wood) I've never had an issue with mine. I clean and oil evenly quarterly and so far so good.
That's just it. People get these filters thinking they're good forever and just neglect them or they don't pay attention to filter care and drown them in oil.
I clean mine once a year and haven’t had any issues. I agree people either never change them, completely soak them in oil, don’t know how to clean them, or who knows what. It’s not that hard. K&N has a simple video explaining how to clean them.
I'm an original owner of an 09 Accord 4 cylinder with 238k+ miles on it, slapped on a K&N since the car was brand new. I get 460 miles on a full tank of gas, no issues. I only use paper air filter (still on the original from the factory) when I clean and re-oil. The key is doing it properly, not to overdo applying oil and make sure the cotton layer evenly absorbs the oil.
I have used K&N air filters on my Explorer for years and I clean them every time I change the oil. I also clean the MAF. Never had a problem with K&N. You are correct that too much oil can cause performance. So, I am careful about how much I spray on.
Thanks for your excellent productions - Always enjoy them..........
Im planning on getting the K&N air filter for my gs 350, How often should I clean them and how? also, which oil would be the safest for the filter
@@senorbonbon Like I said, I clean mine every time I change the oil (Castrol Edge 20W50) every 3500-4000 miles. However, if you are not in a really dusty environment - maybe once a year would do but at lease every 30K miles. K&N has a spray on oil which works great. For cleaning, I soak in Purple Power for about an hour or two, then rinse well. From there into a Dawn water bath which lifts out the rest of the dirt and oil. Then rinse and air dry.
A couple of hundred $$ for parts & labor combined could decrease the 50 mile per tank issue along with keep it running for another 100k as well.
@wut something I do some things but not everything
@wut something Paid less than $100.00 parts & labor combined to install 4 new injectors in my MItsubishi 2 years ago. Gotta buy parts online.
@wut something Some mechanics work with you but don't guarantee parts you bring to them. 1999 Mirage 2 door DE Coupe 1.5 engine/automatic. Got the "NEW" injector set wholesale for $35.00 from China on E-bay and another $50 bucks to install them & it took him less than a half hour to do it + the car had over 200k miles on it at the time too. The car's been running smoother & like a dream ever since too.
I Disagree Scotty. I've used K&N filters for many many years on my Toyotas, Kia's, etc. Never had a problem. I've never seen oil contamination issues if you follow the simple clean and oil procedure. They last the life of the vehicle, filter better than paper filters, and improve air flow significantly. And, you only need to clean them every 50,000 miles.
Sad thing is they don't filter very well.
Filtration is not good for K&N, which is why airflow is better. They are well made though but anything other than racing applications is not the best use for them.
When I got my truck it had a k&n and there was so much oil on it and under it it left like a 1/4 in of grime in the air box I won’t go with one for that reason u less it’s on a cold air intake and properly oiled and cleaned u gotta use the right amount of oil and their easy to over oil
I've used them in every car I've ever owned . 0 issues. If you must clean the MAF occasionally.
I find that when the seasons change always requires air in the tires. Say summer to fall will find tires being 5 to 7 lbs low. And the change happens in week. Just something I've run across when I check my tires twice a month.
Mass air flow sensor is fine. If it was messed up, you would get CEL. With that mileage, it likely just needs a good fuel system cleaning as Scotty suggested. The TPMS sensor light was on. Did Scotty check the tire pressure? That could explain some of the mileage loss as well. I've run K&N filters for hundreds of thousands of miles on car without any issues. They don't provide any mileage or horsepower benefit, but if you replace a paper filter every 10,000 miles, you can spend a lot of money on air filters or just one K&N.
This is simply untrue lmao, it'll only throw a code if there's a complete or extreme failure of the maf. If it's simply dirty or on it's way out you're not going to get any codes.
oiled K&N would oil up my MAF sensor after a few months. switched to dry ones and no problems.
The reason your air flow sensor was malfunctioning is, wait for it...you are using way too much oil when you re-oil the K&N filter after cleaning it (Ding-Ding-Ding what do we have for him, Johnnie?)...I have used K&N air filters on my vehicles for years and never have any problems, just increased fuel mileage and more HP.
@@michaelchance9405 never added any, fresh out of the box "pre-oiled". but hey, thanks for the sarcasm!
I've heard that K&N filters are controversual but I love them myself for how they flow. That said they supposedly don't filter quite as well as a paper filter and they can oil up the MAF sensor if you over oil them. Personally I never had any problems on two cars that I fitted K&Ns to (both Vauhall Opel Cavalier / Vectra 2.0 L petrol).
The car that showed the most noticeable improvement in performance was an a old 1986 Citroen Visa 17RD (Diesel, no turbo). Well, you can laugh but it was an excellent car that gave me 55 mpg (UK) seemingly however I drove it. It was a very unfashionable nicotine brown colour 😁😁
@@DaveSomething this was exactly my experience as well. Killed a vw Maf before it was ever re-oiled
@Terry Melvin once every 50.000 miles
Scotty obviously loves that TRD Camry so much he drove it back to Houston to film a video lol
@N0RT2G0RD4U woosh
I would too they are nice cars
He pre recorded many videos
I've noticed that too and his unusual lifestyle of going back and forth. Gotta love that "Live Free or Die" sign. Maybe he should move to New Hampshire.
Didn't he buy a supra he can make that drive easy
I use k&n filters, mainly because I drive regularly in very dusty conditions for my job. I may have to replace filters 2 times per oil change. I clean it regularly and oil it per instructions and I personally think I get better than oem.
Never had an issue with my K&N. put them in every car and truck.
If maintained property, they are very good. But some people use the theory of "A little good, more must be better" and saturate them with oil.
absolutely- i have had problems with some of fram's reboxed filters for imports. beware.
I put a K & N air filter in my 1999 Jaguar 4 years ago. Car runs more responsive. I clean every other oil change. Be careful not to over oil it. If you do, just clean the MAF with MAF spray cleaner. Also, if your engine oil gets dirty fast, that tells you to check the air filter. Follow that and engine won't get damaged due to particles passing thru the air filter. Always liked Scotty!
Engine oil and air filter do not correlate with eachother.
Nothing gets past a paper filter. And they breathe perfectly fine when they’re clean. Just keep a paper filter on the shelf, that’s all.
What toyota thats past year 2000 uses a paper filter? they are not made of paper lol.
New Toyota trucks come with the K&N filters. 😂🤣🤣
I've used a K&N in my F-150 for more than a decade. No problems. I used one for 5 years in my GTI. No problems. I just bought a Golf R and put a K&N in it. I'm confident it won't cause any problems.
7:39 my first car was a 90 Acura Legend with 150k miles, and only cost $500. It didn't come with a key to the locking lug nuts installed. Took it to an Acura dealer, and they gave me a key that fit the lug nuts for free.
die grinder and a crescent wrench
I have used K & N in motorcycles, cars, vans, trucks and have never had any issue since the 1980’s. The K & N cabin filter has a strong odor new, after a week it is fine, no smell. You have to use K & N air filter oil and not over saturate the filter. I have had no problems and in cars, vans, motorcycles and trucks at all with K & N.
K&N 🇺🇸 ..I've been using these ON ALL my vehicles since 1974 👍
What happened to the closed captioning? Some of us really need it.
Isn't that about the time K&N started?
@@williamgolden839K&N started in 1969 ..
@@abrahammcdermett3624works on mine.
He has a way of making opinions sound like facts. All I know is I've used these types of filters before without any problems.
250k miles and the only fault active is a tire pressure light ? Toyota quality 👌!
My nissan altima at 230k and has only the tire light too.
toyota bought out one of the best motor manufacturers in japan (daihatsu, who had been building BETTER powerplants for nearly 100 years) and then pulled the plug on all the service and parts operations associated with this maker only 10 years years later, leaving about 3500 owners high and dry. 3500 units across the USA supposedly threatened toyota's profit margin! i will never buy a toyota product- their products are comparatively stodgy, anyway
FYI, my 2010 rav4 had the tire pressure issue also, drove me crazy, finely checked the spare, yep it has a sensor and was at 20psi, go figure, good luck
@@TheSidekickking yeah, and what major problems have you had to take care of to get there?
@@WCGwkf lmao dude only problem i got with it is the air ride and thats an aftermarket part..other than that no major problems at ALL. DRIVE LIKE ITS NEW STILL. BECAUSE I CHANGED MY OIL ON TIME AND I PUT INTAKE INSTEAD.
Just a comment on the "Bonus Questions & Answers" re: Accura Legend. I have a friend who bought a pretty one, 260K miles, looked good inside and out (well-kept) and he got it cheap ($1500). Fell in love with it! SO: he called Jasper (the engine company), got a completely torn down & rebuilt AS-NEW motor put in (trans checked out fine) with a 36,000 mile nationwide warranty with roadside assistance, a few other repairs like shocks and bushings, had the paint "color sanded" and for $9000 total the guy has a gorgeous daily driver he LOVES.
We're too quick to write off old good cars. Not every car is worth it - the Legend definitely IS, a NorthStar Cadillac not so much - but we're too quick to throw away stuff lately. Even Scotty with his "lives forever" Toyota and Lexus.
Scotty has such good energy. I could literally watch him all day!
Forget the computer, for get the text drive, forget all the blah blah blah and just check/change the air filter first.
I've been using it for much more than 10 years and my CR-V runs excellent! Come on, Scotty!
Great topic. Have tried oiled air filter, but prefer paper because of the better air filtration.
Decided to dump the Jiffy lube and do my own Corolla. OEM recommended full synth and paper filter. Ran it on the Freeway. The motor sounds better at idle. No tappet type of noise any longer. How about that!
I replaced my stock with a K&N air filter and have had no issues at all. Runs so good with it, actually, but I know not all situations are the same.
Perhaps they put too much cleaner solution on it?
I'm not a fan of those air filters either like Scotty. My experience has been they allow too much dirt to pass through them. After all, when you hold an air filter up to the light and you could see light through it, why would you think dirt wouldn't come through were the light does? Having used oil analysis done backs up what I just said, the silicone levels were higher than normal. Changed to paper air filter, problem solved.
yea i've used K&N air filters for 20 years, never had any problems
@@markkauffman6184 So, light and dirt are the same size molecularly? 🤔
@@rigdoc3948 Of course not. The human eye cannot see light in the smallest particle. What I don't like is an air filter that has big enough holes where I can see through it, that will allow dirt to pass through it. To me, gaining possibly one or two extra horsepower at the cost of sucking dirt into the engine simply isn't worth it but to each their own.
@@Len1977gt I also have used them for a number of years with no obvious issues. When used oil analysis shows elevated levels of silicon (dirt) in the oil, that becomes alarming because getting dirt in the oil is never a good idea.
'98 Camry, 247k, bought it in '03 with 74k, V6, 5sp. Dropped in a K&N soon as I got it. Cleaned it last week FOR THE FIRST TIME (unless I did it, like, ten years ago and didn't write it down...). Gas mileage was still around 27 to 30 mpg cruising cross country on back roads at about 65 to 75 mph, passing from time to time to time. In other words, K&N still doin' it's job. Cleaned it thusly: Filter dirty side down in kitchen sink (didn't tell my wife...), squirted it liberally with Castrol Super Clean de-greaser (K&N cleaner ain't nothin' but rebranded Windex), hit it with HOT water from sink tap. Repeat until you're not getting anymore dirt from filter. Mine took 5 or 6 times. Let it air dry--no forced air, please. When dry, oil it very lightly, then put it in the sun to get the oil warm and wick through the filter, and leave it there for a day (I know, pita...). Look for a nice, uniform pink color over the entire filter. Touch it up lightly where needed, then put it back in the sun. When it's that nice uniform pink color, yer good to go. Moderation in oiling and patience are key. Oh yeah, still on the original clutch, motor runs like a watch, not a drop of oil useage, 6k oil and filter changes, full syn and Baldwin oil filter--made in Nebraska, baby! GO SCOTTY!!
I've had the same issue using the KN filters in my 08 Impala. They really do mess with the mass air flow sensor. Drove with one for a few years with odd issues then went back to the oem filter last year and it drives better than it ever did.
It there any way to refresh the mass air flow sensor without dismantling things?
I got a toyota camry, change the air filter to a kn. Drove 5,0345, cleaned the filter twice. I have 117942 getting ready to change the plugs, with the tune up I checked the mass. Pulled it out and it was as clean as a washed dinner plate. At 117 thousand I believe it has never pulled out of the vehicle however I cleaned it any way. The point is the oil on the kn filter stays on the filter, I have never had trouble with oil coating the mass from the kn filter
Wix filters for the win.
over-rated, over-priced
I just grab the local Napa gold filters with the AAA discount.
Drove my focus for 3yrs with K&N and never had any issue. I lived in a small city with low pollution very low dust sometimes zero because it rains most of the time. My engine bay is spotless even after 2 weeks without cleaning.
I watched a comparative air filter test recently on TH-cam. Those K&N filters were about the worst for the amount of dirt they removed from the incoming air. The issue was even worse if they weren't oiled properly (and it appears oiling them introduces problems of its own). The tester recommended avoiding fancy filters, buying OEM paper ones and changing them at recommended intervals.
K&N is over-priced krap!
@Dan The car guy Who, me? Being a "motorsport mechanic" doesn't strengthen the value of your opinion, I'm afraid. In motorsport, one needs the maximum amount of airflow into an engine. Racing engines are often run without any form of air cleaner to increase airflow. Performance is all that counts and longevity is not a consideration - engines are stripped regularly and any damage rectified. What works on the track does not necessarily work for long term everyday use.
What was the channel, am interested in watching 🙂 @Laurie Harper
been using K&N filter for years, 97 mustang GT and recently 2004 explorer. also have 2016 sentra (manual) using Paper filters. Neither vehicles with oiled filters are having any problems. Both older vehicles were bought used and already had the K&N on them, the factory airboxes were gone so returning to paper not in my future. I would never waste money switching from factory air intake to CAI with K&N filters though.
I have three Mustang convertibles, all with K&N filters, and have never had a problem. Clean them out at regular intervals and let the oil dry before you put them back in. It is a vert good product and, when maintained properly, will last longer than the life of the car.
How often do you change yours?
I stopped using K&N air filters years ago. The negligible performance gains are not worth the trouble.
You are correct. Had one in an 05 Chevy. One day I cleaned the filter, and I'm waiting for the new oil to dry so I could put it back in and I'm thinking,why? When my mass air flow sensor went out, I replaced it and went back to OEM filters.
Did the mistake of buying k and n. Cabin filter. Made my car smell like oil. Now just buy regular paper cabin filter. Easier
I have a K&N filter in my Jaguar S Type V6 and no problem so far. MAF sensor is fine after 10.000km and i would say jaguars are one of the most sensitive cars when it comes to aftermarket changes, especially with sensors and stuff like that.
I cant say much about engine wear, it doesn't look like it has any problem so i give it the benefit of the doubt.
Now i got an S Type R and will install K&N next weekend, the R has the same filter as the small eninges and i assume their is even more potential for bether airflow, but we will see. It sounds nice though, probably the first difference you notice after installing.
The best mechanic ever am 11 and I absolutely admire your work I am really excited to grow up and follow you advices.
hello and thank you!
Yes
Yes.
Yes
Yes
My Dad laughed at me when I got a K&N filter. He is a mechanical engineer from West Texas and said you can't beat a disposable filter changed often. Ii could feel improved throttle response, but eventually did have to clean the MAF sensor with that spray they make fer it.
Scotty talks like a doctor when he sees that data. A true sign of a pro. "Dr. Kilmer" has written a prescription: "Take two bottles of injector cleaner and call me in the morning!"
We'll have ports in our head in the future to analyze with their fancy scan tool.
😂😂
theres only one problem , injector cleaner is a waste of money
Lol
I once installed a K&N air filter on a 2002 Nissan Maxima and a few days later my MAF sensor failed and my vehicle died while driving down the highway. Vehicle was towed to Nissan by AAA. In Nissan’s write-up they claimed that the K&N filter was the cause of the MAF failure. I called K&N and sent them the paperwork from Nissan stating their filter was the cause of the failure and surprisingly K&N actually paid Nissan for the parts and labor to replace the MAF sensor!! Pretty cool of them. Regardless, I still haven’t bought another K&N filter for any of my vehicles since then.
Scotty you just keep blessing us with this super helpful information, like always this guy has save me a ton of money, probably the main reason my 2011 durango 3.6L has over 175,000 miles no engine light or problems , and i know for a fact its from your tips and tricks, i thank u like always!!
I just want to say that I like and pay attention to all that Scott says. My wife owns a 2008 rav4 and any issues I have will be asked to Scott Kilmer. He is a fantastic mechanic
I personally prefer non oiled K&N filters. But to be fair oem filters are just fine.
I put one of those oil air filters in my 02 Monte Carlo and the gas mileage is better than factory ratings. No issue after a couple of yrs. So I put one in the wife's 04 Monte. It has more miles on it and engine runs better than mine.
Scotty I the best I love how energetic he is and one of the best mechanics
Dropped a k&n in my work van that I used for transportation. I got and extra 60 miles per tank of gas with it. It was the same drive everyday so I know for sure it got better gas mileage.
Scotty mentions the owner poured in some fuel injector cleaner and filled it up with super unleaded. Doesn't Scotty recommend against using super unless the vehicle is designed for it?
I've been running them for years on my 04 and 03 benzes and they certainly do trap a lot of dirt and I need to be clean so obviously they they do work but they do need to be clean and properly oiled
157k miles using my properly maintained k&n. Clean MAF sensor, clean intake tube, plenum clean up until the PCV return, dirty after that as usual.
AEM dry-flo filter was developed by AEM and K&N to be hi-flo, washable, and doesn't require filter oil. Lasts indefinitely and can be cleaned as often as you wish. I use one on my 4.0 tacoma prerunner(oem style).
@Mark Codiroli meh. Lots of good UAO numbers to back up dry flos. They are great filters, I'll take them any day over a paper filter.
I use Techron cleaner twice a year, but I fill up with Chevron (contains Techron as well) This way it should work better. Also I've read the same thing about the K&N many times that is why I did not buy one for my latest car.
Hi Scotty ! Easy on the NorthStar , You know the pre 2006 NS's , have a head bolt fix ! MY 2006 , with 135K , runs like racecar ! Just need to keep it CLEAN ! AND RUN THE HELL OUT OF IT ! W .O. T. no Grany !
Scotty, I love your advice. On this car I would, first, clean the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Then, I would recheck the MAS readings. If if they stabilized, great. If not, I would change the sensor.
Also, what are the upstream O2 sensor voltage readings? If they are low, then the sensors are old and producing a low voltage, which causes the ECM to lengthen the fuel injector pulse, making the engine runs rich.
What does Long Term Fuel Trim mean? Is it an average of the injector flow? I’m a little confused.
When I ran a K&N, after cleaning and spraying with oil I use to put it in plastic bag and shake the hell out of it to get rid of the excess oil. Got sick of cleaning it so went back to paper.
See my findings: I,actually got tired of messing / spraying/drying,cleaning etc. Interestingly, more comfortable with OEM FILTERS, AND looks more my dust area, driving is safer now... Cannot imagine less restrictions extrapolates to more dust removed( many times my KN WERE filthy quick.....thouhg NEVER HAD MAF PROBLEMS.........???? ( knowlingly).
Rev up your engines with dirty filters!!!!
🚗 💨💨
I wish I could get you to diagnose my 2013 chrysler town and country. Has P0420 code. I've replaced the catalytic, and all 4 o2 sensors...
250k with k&n filter? I dont see how thats a fail. I clean my filters often and my engines go 300k +
Unless they oiled the wrong side of the filter (?) Directions say only oil on the 'dirty' air / intake side , not the side facing the MAF
@@Sir...... it depends on the car really, soem cars have the MAF much closer to the filters. I oil both side and let it sit a few hours to soak up the oil and then I wipe the excess oil, 300k later I never had a problem but these do require vigilance, especially if you do a lot of highway driving, they will get dirty fast.
I jst thrw it out and get a new k&n. It lasts long enuf anyways
@@brolyv5802 Oh god please don't do that lol, the whole point of the K&N is to keep it forever but they get dirtier much quicker. I have to clean mine twice pert oil change interval because I do a lot of highway driving. Go to your car now and clean it before its too late.
Interestingly, I used K&;N FOAM FILTERS, carefully in WARSAW INDIANA; some three vehicles::::: APPROX MILES MEMORY::1997 Dodge Intrepid HIPO V6@ some 120,000 miles, 2007 CANYONGMC @ 120,000 ,2015 JOURNEY 4 CYL@40,000 & had no noticeable issues ( MAF,DIRTY OIL,ETC?) .. Actually, with high INVESTIGATIONS, dust and dirt loads relocating to HELENA VALLEY MT SWITCHED TO OEM AIR FILTERS, ALWAYS.........does” appear” gas mileages may be “ slightly” lower in overall....however appears may catch more Dust/ dirts......@20,000 miles a year. .....anyways in summary :: it could,be hard to **(find))* fault OEM Engineers with these areas of flow/overall performances/ engine life. .....
We see the things he says about GM match the Fords we're seeing the last several years, and people around here, in town, love their GMs. I realize each have their own good and bad, but the amount of work and shop time for some of the Ford guys around here is horrible, and people grab the used GMs from each other around here because they have been cared for and very reliable. But I respect his opinion for where he is for what he sees, it's just a LOT different around here and with so many others I talk to. Even the all brands shops around here say they get less GMs in than the others. Go figure, could be bias for them and him, but to each their own.
We love you Scotty! What about checking ring blow-by at the PCV? Could be worn rings.
Correct, but the pvc valve is usually away downstream of the MAF. Of course blowby will lower fuel economy. Thanks for your post. Jus'sayin'
Janine you are hot!
@@kirstenspencer3630 I know that. I am not thinking that the PCV is blowing oil onto the MAF sensor. I am thinking that if there is excessive blow-by, you will see an excess of oil steam purging out of the PCV outlet. Disconnect the PCV-to-intake hose and check it for higher-than-normal purging. If the rings are worn, that could contribute to lowered fuel economy.
@@Arttheclown1981 Thank you. Of course, to be fair, you are only seeing me at my best. LOL!
Could be Scotty is a businessman that knows 💩 about cars. Who only cares about money. 🤫💵💵💵
Yes I had too much oil on my k&n in my crosstrek. Don't put a lot of oil just enough to make it red but I've had them in 6 of my cars for years each. Love them and have saved so much money and gas milage. Thankfully the 6 months I had too much oil didn't damage anything in the crosstrek that was 4yrs ago nothing so far.
The K&N filter is not an "oil filter." It is an air filter - it filters air. Specifically, it is an _engine air filter,_ - as opposed to a _cabin air filter._ It may have some oil in it, but that does not make it an oil filter. Many years ago, when Scotty was a young mechanic, and I wasn't born yet, cars had that they called _oil-bath_ air filters. The filter consisted of some sort of rather coarse plant fibers, the bottom of which was immersed in a bath of oil. As you drove along and bounced along, oil would splash around and moisten the fibers, which would enable them to filter out smaller particles. Instead of changing the filter, you could simply replace the oil, along with all the particles that had fallen into it when it splashed over the fibers.
VW beetle air cooled engines used them. Last units rolled off the assembly lines in South America in the 2000's. Yes, they worked, and yes, the.oil bath needed changed out from time to time.
@@RemoteViewr1 Yup. I think the last few years of Mexican air cooled VW's, around 2003 I think, used paper oil filters, but in the US, right up until 1974 or so - oil bath. While US cars started using alternators around 1960 or so, VW did not go from generator to alternator until around 1973! Don't know why. Alternator makes a substantial improvement over generator at low engine RPMs. Doesn't really cost any more either. Plenty of room in the engine bay for an alternator. So why did VW take so long to catch up with the rest of the world? Who knows. Now, the oil bath air filter on the VW worked very nicely. Replacing oil was cheaper than replacing paper filter element. And I would think that oil bath unit would cost VW _much more money_ to manufacture than a paper element filter. Very complexly shaped heavy sheet metal. Paper element filter is a simple plastic box. So why did VW take so long? I have no idea. On the other hand, In regard to fuel injection, VW switched their air-cooled engines from carburetion to fuel injection _earlier_ than most other cars! Around 1976 or so. My 1982 Honda Accord had an overall much more sophisticated engine than the VW air cooled engine. But it still had a carburetor.
My Ford Transit van gets 200 miles to just half a tank of gas. It has the 310 hp twin turbo EcoBoost engine. WOOHOO! I have the K&N filter. My van is 5 years old. P.S. I really like your intro in the red sports car.
I added a K&N filter shortly after buying my 07 RAV4 3.5L. Ran fine but from the start there were throttle response and shift problems (5 sp auto trans). I cleaned the throttle throat had buildup of gasoline varnish built up around the butterfly valve. The butterfly was actually sticking some so that when I opened the throttle, I did not get immediate response. The valve would only pop open when I pressed the gas peddle to a certain point, at which I got less than the gradual opening of throttle I wanted. After cleaning off the varnish, the subtle throttle was restored. But I didn't clean the MAF. I'd cleaned the K&N filter once, being sure to get as much oil out of the filter as I could. Then I saw on one of Scotty's videos how easy it was to clean the MAF in most Toyotas. I sacrificed $10 at the altar of Autozone for enough MAF cleaner to last a hundred cleanings. I cleaned the MAF for the first time - about a year and a half after purchasing the car and installing the K&N filter, spraying the cleaner every place including the little pitot tube in the base of the MAF. The difference was immediately noticeable. The throttle response was as good as it gets. But and unexpected effect was the car shifted better. What I thought might have been an automatic transmission issue may have been an engine issue instead. This isn't too hard to imagine as the engine, airflow, and transmission shifting all go through the car's computer. Maybe there's some kind of link between airflow (monitored by the MAF) and the transmission shifting points. It will be interesting to see if Scotty does any further testing of the K&N filter. Now that I have a can of MAF cleaner, and the fact the MAF is so easy to remove and clean, I'm not going to worry about the K&N polluting the MAF. I'll just take the 5 minutes it takes to clean it every few months.
Scotty Kilmer I love watching as many videos you make I learn a lot about cars and what to expect .You are the best
Most folk absolutely douche the K&N (as well as copy cats) with the oil and it gets pulled down the tract and then coats the mass airflow sensor and throttle body...awesome job, folks
Hey scotty. Love when you show trouble shooting with real time diagnostics. I'm learning a lot. Thanks.
He's a parts changer
Improperly inflated tires could effect the mileage.
i wouldn't blame it on the air filter...for me, it's either
1. tyre pressure is underpressured, increasing FC
2. the car got old...at that kind of mileage, you'll surely experience FC gone a little worse
3. change the fuel filter if it's never been changed before
We'llll... I've been running K&N air intake filters for a few decades and YES, if you over-oil them your car's MAF sensor will get oily and screwed up and dirty as hell. SO... be SURE to only re-oil just enough to get it all looking pinkish red (after thoroughly cleaning and drying the filter).
Seems like a lot of mundane work for less filtration, and negligible airflow for stock applications.
Customer: Scotty, can you check out this car before I buy it.
Scotty: the A/C is freezing cold.
Customer: ok thank you 😊.
What about MAF cleaner? The oil doesn't damage the sensor, it coats it after time and needs routine cleaning.
Scotty, love your videos! I have used K&N air filters in all my cars & trucks for decades. To clean, I spray degreaser on them, spray-rinse them out with a garden hose & tap them dry. Because of the MAF sensor I DO NOT RE-OIL them. Never an engine problem. Same for friends & family whom I've converted over to using K&Ns.
You put the filter back in with no oil? And it performs well? That’s interesting.
Is it the same as a dry filter once you remove the grease?
@@giveme10feet
A dry filter with some pretty big holes in it
Tire pressure monitor system is not working, well tire pressure alone can effect fuel mileage greatly. Scotty's absolutely correct about the injectors getting dirty and not spraying a good pattern for optimum atomization so all the fuel burns efficiently. They will squirt a solid stream and a lot of the fuel goes out the tailpipe. I like Seafoam to clean them. I have a high performance motorcycle and it was gumming up the throttle bodies so bad the throttle wouldn't snap back closed which is bad when you have 175 hp on a motorcycle and it had all sorts of hard carbon deposits in the intake runners and back of the valves, after running a couple tanks of Seafoam added to the gas it is completely clean where the fuel hits it and no more sticky throttle plates.
Scotty, can a mass air flow cleaner remove the KN filter treatment oil ? Any ideas ? Excellent video segment.
MAF cleaner should remove the excess oil. Just be careful as those sensors are fragile.
I've been told don't oil the "inside" of the filter, that is what's facing the throttle body. Only oil the "outside" which is what atmosphere air is going against.
Scotty youre the best man they just dont make em like you anymore man
I use those K&N filters but I don't use those oils. Keeping em dry. They still last long. I replace them only when needed.
I own a RAV. I’ll keep this in mind!
wat model year
@@goofyahhmans 2014
I had a Lexus IS350. Bought a new K&N air filter and my check engine light came on after a few days. The dealership said it was because of the K&N air filter that contaminated the MAF sensor. Put the OEM one back on and it ran great after that.
I love these vids with all my soul
I got a K&N air filter long time now the car had quicker response but was putting too much oil and it interfered with MAF but rides nice with over 368,000 miles 3G Eclipse
Awesome video, full of info as always. Had issues with my mass air flow sensor before, simply cleaned it and never had an issue again
My brother had a 87 Acura legend and he used it as a daily driver no issues with it with just basic maintenance