From an old mechanic and a retired engineer. The best air filter there ever was is an oil bath type and they were replaced with the throwaway paper elements (mid 1960's) due to servicing the oil bath was messy and time (money) consuming. The problem with paper elements is quality and they don't last long; I've seen the sand get into them and cut right through the paper, not good. The K&N filters were invented by a desert racer who went through a lot of engines due to the paper elements downfall and there is no way an oil bath would work in that environment, due to vehicle movement. Take a look at the air inlet location, airbox design and where you drive (asphalt, sand or high dust) for a real world analysis as to what may come towards the air filter to begin with. Hope this helps and it's a free world to choose which way you want to go.
You always have to balance/ compromise filtration efficiency and decreased horsepower. At low RPMs there probably won't be much of a difference. At higher rpms the K&N will have a very small advantage. In acceleration experiments , it will be a fraction of a second. One good experiment to try is long distance MPG measurements in hot dusty conditions versus ice cold clear winter air and see how each of these perform.
Modern engines aren't failing due to anything to do with the quality (or lack thereof) of OEM paper air filters, however. This isn't the 1960's anymore.
I would suggest that looking insider the air-box is a good indication. it should be clean on the manifold side, dusty and dirty on the intake side. I guess a lot depends on the environment the vehicle is used in..A vehicle that is used only on public roads/highways is obviously going to have an easier life than one that is using rough tracks/off roading for extended periods.... I use a K&N filter on my Triumph Street Triple 675 with no problems..
Forget "performance" filters. On track day, just buy a brand new OEM filter, take it to the track, and install it there. A brand new filter flows as well as any, and offers much more protection for an engine, especially, because tracks are often more dusty than the road, and, the engine will draw much more air while racing, than just cruising down the road. Between those two things, you REALLY need the filtration capabilities of an OEM filter!
You should have got equal measured amounts of contaminants and pulled them through the filters with a hover for equal times and measured the amounts that passed again.
What people seem to forget that these sport filters aren't technically supposed to be used for daily driving. My daily is my only car and I bought a K&N filter when I want to do more spirited driving during my holidays, for the daily commute I always use the OEM style air filters :)
Yeah you’re totally right. I’m only use K&N filter for track day… other than that, OEM paper filter should work flawlessly for daily drive and keep engine longevity and durability for many years ahead.
I have seen these oil analysis tests with OEM VS K&N with no prob with K&N at all. Even K&N had better filteration rate and prevented harmful materials from accumulating inside the engine such as zinc, iron....etc
Watch these 3 videos presenting the results of used oil analyses before and after switching to a K&N air filter: th-cam.com/video/uvExyfxzsRo/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/cU8UMlMzi30/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/7D9lJxQ1s-U/w-d-xo.html
@@hamedso9030 you're just straight up wrong. Every video that does the oil analysis shows a drastic increase in Iron coming out of the oil. Meaning there is a massive increase (up to 40%) in engine wear.
Thank you, so annoyed that this isn’t talk about more or tested more. Would like to see how foam filters like Pipercross would perform and with finer particles. If you are ever up to it.
I agree to give the filter time to absorb the oil....but a can of M A F sensor cleaner should remove the oil on sensors...Disconnect the battery first or unclip the M.A.F and let dry an hour or so before reinstalling...I'm no mechanic..But this worked for me and many others as well on youtube.
Fantastic video thank you for this. I just did a magnets on the oil video and was wondering about metal dust getting through the filter and here you have it.
@@vincentyap3188 how can even sand, the same amount in the video go inside the hood of a car? and more so, how can you make the air filter violently shake like he did in the video?
@@gj91471 I don't know what year of racing engine you are talking about but modern race engines always use filtering for longer races where contaminants may ruin the engine. When I was at Keith Black Racing engines they weren't used on Drag race engines or boats due to them being rebuilt after every pass. But racing engines use good aftermarket filters.
I sold all my DNA, K&N filters a while ago for my bikes due to this, TBH they were running worse for me with them too as they're so out of spec compared to factory filters
@@bikersquest To get the MOST of what, performance or longevity of your motor? You have to qualify what you are looking for. Known fact that aftermarket header and muffler with proper fueling will outperform most stock set ups. But there have been some tests I can vaguely remember being very close, especially on newer bikes.
@@sfzx54 Reliability yeah, I'm not looking for tuning my bikes anymore. of coiurse with a map and full system + high flow filter you can get lot more out of a bike but I rather just get a faster bike at that point.
I had a performance cold-air intake system(Stillen Gen3 long-tube) installed on my 370z as part of a performance upgrade plan. The system uses two large cone-shaped K&N oiled cotton air filters. I've had it on for about 20K miles and have had two used engine oil analysis reports done during this time. Neither report shows excessive levels of silica(sand) in the oil or anything else that would suggest that excessive dirt is getting through. My examination of the whole intake tracts on both cylinder banks showed no dirt deposits downstream of the filter elements. There was also no sign of oil residue on the MAF sensors, the throttle bodies or anywhere in between. My experience with the filters has not been such that I would have a concern about excessive dirt getting through the filters in normal usage. The only downside that I would see to the use of these filters is the higher upfront cost and the necessity to carefully clean and reoil them. These filters typically last much longer than paper surface filters, so the higher initial cost is at least partially balanced out in the long run. This system, plus the less restrictive exhaust that I put on the car, resulted in so much more air flowing through the engine that my tuner had to recalibrate the air-fuel ratios over the whole rev range and to optimize the ignition timing. This resulted in an estimated 55 hp increase in peak crankshaft horsepower. All of it was a worthwhile thing for me to have done.
Appreciate you doing these tests, and a more restrictive paper filter will obviously filter better than a higher flowing oiled filter. But it's funny how for the first paper filter you're barely tapping it on the table so no particles go through while the K&N you're hitting it on the table much much harder, re-watch your own video and see for yourself.
@@bhvrdr thanks. Also agreed. But the fact foam is the choice for off road and KN type filters recommend foam as pre filter to increase filtering efficiency up to 90% makes me think foam may still be as good as paper type filter.
Has the K&N been oiled? Also, doesn't the air pass through all those filter from the bottom to the top, not from the top to the bottom, as you had poured the sand/dust?
All filters are directional so why did you pour the test contaminates on the wrong side (air out let) VS instead of the air inlet side? Also the K&N appeared to be not oiled properly which would make it an instant fail just like your test. Lastly as someone who has used oiled filters for over 30 years I would not recommend them for a daily used street vehicle. I use them on 100% off road applications, race vehicles and other vehicles often used in very dusty conditions. They work just a good as paper filters “if oiled correctly” and that is the issue many have IE not knowing how much oil to use or what the correct service interval is.
The kn filter is oiled from the factory to their specs. It was brand new. You couldn't oil it better to their specifications since they actually did it. The filter media itself is not directional.
@@vincentyap3188 I guess you’ve never been caught behind other vehicles or gone riding in a group? Where can I find these completely empty roads and trails?
So what i got from this video is OEM filter is good all around. But other filters are more for if you want a bit more air to gain that +1 hp in your car?
You know that the K&N filter should be slightly moistened with a special oil dedicated to these filters. I do not know about the sprintfilter,or BMC filters but I am guessing that it should also not be used dry either.
Of course. The bmc and kn are oiled filters that come from the factory pre oiled. Thsts cotton gauze style. Sprint is single layer synthetic dry filter. Never ever oil those or theyre ruined.
Most engine damage is done by particles in the 5-20 micron range. Even a 37 micron filter does not inspire confidence though it's better than 80 for sure.
Esos filtros *sólo* son para motores que uses en carreras o en un circuito y que no van a tener que durar 300 mil km. *No* son para un motor de uso normal a diario. Para un motor que quieres que dure cientos de miles de km. hay que filtrar el aire todo lo que se pueda, aunque eso suponga una mayor restricción de flujo/menor caudal de aire.
Great video..How about the use of the Kn oil with the filter?.I live in the mountains..up a Non paved dirt road...I wonder if the oil added would catch the fine dust that I see all summer long..Perhaps another test?..
Thanks. The bmc and kn filters come oiled from the factory. Yeah you definitely want to use them oiled but i wouldn't oil a sprint filter. They're designed to go without it and you could cause clogging or breakdown oiling it.
I buy my Yamaha royal star venture used. It had 30,000 miles on it, and it had K & N stock replacement air filters, there are two air filters on these machines. I have a video on my TH-cam channel, Yamaha royal star venture major flaw is the title of it. In that video, I pointed out all the filth and dust inside my intake system. I was blaming that on loosefitting plumbing of the intake system to the carburetors. But it turned out to be the K and N Eric layers were leading all of that dirt in… I have another video pointing out what I would do if I were anyone watching the video that had KNN air filters in their machine. They may pass more air which they do in testing, but, they also let more than 10 times the dirt get in. A TH-camr with a website called project farm prove that by sifting flour into a box with a vacuum below the box, pulling air through the filters in a comparison with a meter that measured particulates that go through the filters. The K and N oiled air filter was the one that passed the most air, and the most Particulates
if this does not persuade you from buying an aftermarket crapfilter then by all means go ahead go for it and take a chance on scratching up them cylinder wallz over time and reducing the life span of your engine ! it is so worth that 1-5 hp.
After 10 years of having a KN in my car she starts up like a charm. Hardly uses oil.... Yeah really bad for my car..... Cylinder walls and piston rings must be shot...... SMH
@@omgwtflmaololrotfl2368 you can drive around for 10 years without an air filter and what will that prove if your car starts up ? 😆 people at the track run without air filter whatsoever you could be just like them.
When he tested both of the reusable filters and said not bad, it is bad. Because if you can see “anything” with the naked eye after his test, that filter is garbage. You notice you couldn’t see anything visible with the naked eye after the paper filter test. Particle abrasives that are far too small to see, will do long term damage to your engine.
When it comes to filters its not the vehicle that benefits it's the person. If you're a lazy person get the OEM filter. If you like spending hours on your vehicle then get the Sprint. And if you want peace of mind get the BMC/K&N.
I agree except piece of mind would be the OEM filter as they filter best and being cheap would be the KN filters as they are much less expensive than most OEM over the course of vehicle ownership
@@bhvrdr the problem with ORM filter is that you have to keep replacing. With KN and BMC you can simple clean and reuse. When out in the woods I rather have one that I can reuse.
@@h.nguyen4193 it is a good point you make which is the difference between having to clean a filter vs just replacing a filter. I'm personally not a big fan of cleaning the cotton gauze filters they really are made out of cotton gauze and if you've ever inspected one after 100000 miles the cotton has broken down quite significantly I'd be happy to show pictures of ones of mine that have. I tend to replace cotton gauze filters at around 50,000 miles. I don't use them in any vehicle that sees significant Dusty environment of course.
@@bhvrdr I ride a triumph street triple motorcycle and it’s wicked important to have a clean filter. But the trade offs are the same. Instead of changing or cleaning the filter after years, a motorcycle filter is change or cleaned annually.
You spilled the iron dust over the back side and then drug the filter across it when you pushed the filter back on the very last one, i feel like most of the iron dust we seen was spilled
Large particles really are not a huge issue to motors, yes the can score cylnder walls but its the stuff 5 microns and smaller which can fit between the tightest of tolerances in a motor. Big particles get filtered out be it in oil filter, air filter, or simply can't progress further into the motor and get drained out with oil. The finest of dust is what makes lap after lap around the motor causing wear each time. Also the same stuff which will not get filtered out by your typical oil filter. That's why filtration at low microns matters.
Thank you for this video, this is quite interesting. However without recreating the pressurised environment you will only be guessing about the filtering effectiveness. Send the filters to Project farm! He could use the other half PS I realise it's an older video
Figure oem gives best filtration so if you dirt bike go with oem. Bmc / k&n are middle ground with better flow and ok filtration so if you street bike or race go with those. Sprint id only put on a dedicated race bike.
@@bhvrdr Thanks for your answer. I only ride on the normal streets but dont want to hurt my engine if I use the BMC longer. I think then i go with the OEM. I thought sport Filter filters the air much more better..
I bet installed in cars these filters will not knock hard on themselves letting debris through as when knocked on the table + If you are not doing of road and hitting asphalt only, then these performance filters + remap will be alright
Keep telling yourself that, if that was the truth you wouldn't be able to mod engine to get double the HP by using other brands of parts. Car manufacturers cut costs everywhere they can. I also guarantee the decent quality suspension will also be much better than stock.
Hello, one question for you. Have you primed the performance filters with their brand oil primer as they should be? 99% of the times they don’t come primed from the factory and you haven’t mentioned it in your video so that’s why I’m asking. Thank you !
The main function of an air filter is to FILTER air. Of course I choose the filter-type that does its job best. I won't waste money for cotton-"filters" that in fact are sieves and unqualified.
Oil analysis shows that 100% of the time you get an increase in iron from your engine oil when you put in one of these filters. That means more engine wear. Don't do it. Even then videos where the "professional K&N user/maintainer" tries to prove they're fine, they miss the mark and show that their engine is being consumed up to 40% faster
The video could be misleading. You need to show whether the filters were oiled as required. The video seems like the filters were dry, which is not the right way to use these filters
Run the same test with a foam filter. Don't use a Pipercross as they are too thin. A Unifilter or something designed for dusty conditions would be ideal. Foam filters ~50% more than paper. 🙂
when you drive a car or ride a motorcycle the amount of sand and dust will not as much show in this video, unless you purposely pour a cup of sand or dust on the filter, as shown in this video
Grazie per questo confronto ero in procinto di installare un filtro sportivo, ma a questo punto non lo farò neppure per sbaglio. Non si sacrifica il motore per vantaggi insignificanti in termini prestazionali.
mmmm think I’ll just change my OEM annually regardless of mileage. Just one drive across a dusty car park with a performance filter in and all that crap will be going into your engine.
I have visited 2 air filter companies inching BMC in Italy. I real world applications these results would not happen and tiny particles will burn up anyway. I appreciate your effort but very deceptive results.
@@bhvrdr ....if it is so bad for the engine that the small particles will be sucked inside - all engines would be on the junkyard after say about 50.000 miles! But it isn´t so! I bet there are engines outside with 200.000 miles fittet with sport filters and they are in a totally normal condition!
they do happen over time...so you visiting companies in Italy proves that aftermarket filters work better than OEM? OHHH K LMAO .... go back to those two BMC filter companies and ask them to put Your car on a dyno rev it to 6000-7000 rpm and let you air snorkel suck up hand full of sand ...first do it with OEM filter and after scope your cylinder walls and then do the same thing with BMC , K&N or which ever aftermarket performance filter... let them two companies scope those cylinders walls after that ... lol
The thing is most people are idiots and they get sold on the whole high flow race filter thing when the only thing they do with their car is drive it on the road like on the road when that stuff is designed for race cars and bikes on a track for very short amounts of time with engines that get rebuilt and maintenanceed extremely often. OEM air filters are designed for people who will drive a car on dirty roads for long periods of time. If you aren't driving on a race track or maintenance and rebuilding your engine very often stick with the OM filter. If you race and every single horsepower matters use sprint or don't even use an air filter at all if you want the most power and max airflow. But if you want your engine to stay clean and last as long as possible stick with the OEM
That is a pretty common sense answer that is the trade-off you want more air in your engine to produce more horsepower supposedly the obvious answer is yes it's going to let more debris in as well choose your poison.
The filters seem very dry to me. Not sure you being very honest. Maybe do a test where you show how you lube the non oem filters. Also go read up on the pulse effect from the valves and performance filters.
K&N and BMC come pre-oiled from the factory. They actually caution against over oiling as this can damage fine wire maf sensors. If you oil a sprint filter you'd destroy it. Sprint filters are dry filters
@@bhvrdr car does not use oil. So cylinder walls and piston rings must still be fine. Also my car is 22 years old 1999 model. She has 250k kilos on the clock. Straight 6 4L motor. So not a new car and she has had her fair share of work. I service her myself. Dunno after the filter change from oem to the KN she just seems so much more happy. Towing big caravan every now and then. Never broke down since I had her from new. Not once. Did not feel a performance increase maybe just a bit better consumption on the open road.
Engineers : **went to college, learned about engineering and then developed the right filter for the engine** Boy racers : "K&N filter wow must buy!! And it only costs 4x as much as the OEM filter!!"
@@mc1996 no no they ARE engineers they just did not get hired by car manufacture companies ...all biter they got together and came up with a ploy to swindle money from boy racers by designing aftermarket filters and it worked . :)
@@hunterharison LOL, because car manufactures have only the best engineers... You realize that K&N filters are on the market for 50 years by now, and are the most used filters on race (on and off road) cars, bikes, trucks. Do you know much manufactures with 60 years of history, 50 years on the market and with air filters designed to virtually every vehicle with a engine?
@@mc1996 car manufactures dont have the best engineers...but just because someone makes something for 50-60 years and does fancy adds to lure not so bright it does not mean they sell superior product filtration wise... most bikers, racers , tear up and rebuild those engines often for you to use them as an example...lol ... to make a claim aftermarket performance filters filter just as good if not better is just dumb.
@@hunterharison Who buys a performance air filter for the better filtration? No one, LOL. All that to say these filters don't filter as good as a paper filter on most of original models? No wonder, what a surprise! Its not suppose too. Who is being dumb now?
yea ill be sticking with oem paper filter with carbon filter laid on top from factory on my f90 m5. Everyone on Bmw platform are doing front mount intakes, and this video proves its not the best choice.
The testing isn’t that well. You wouldn’t have any problems. I switched to a cold air intake to remove these problems. Oem filters are usually pretty shitty quality and I had more dust in my air box with oem them drop in air filters like k&N. I now have a aem cold air intake for my 19 Sti
@@Goyxrd3 Only cold air intake for mine is done in US, and I'm in Italy. And costs A LOT (more than 480$ from Eurocompulsion). Now, considering my car has a 200HP engine which is the electronically (exclusively) downpowered version of the 280HP and that with a stock airfilter I can bring it back to around 300HP, I think I'll go on that way :) No need for cold air intake as it's already done that way from Alfa, the only reason for a change would be the (good) intake noise, but not for 480$ :)
I have had K&n in my car not for performance but saving some $$$. Been 10 years in my car and I have had 0 issues. Same goes for my MT09 I have DNA filter again not for performance but saving $$$ here and there. The test this guy does is somewhat flawed. As he completely fills the filter with dust. Wont happen in real world. And his fters seems dry. They need a proper coating of oil.
![The ULTIMATE Air Filter Test [Engineer Tested]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RdbFAG5xbyY/mqdefault.jpg)
![The ULTIMATE Air Filter Test [Engineer Tested]](/img/tr.png)
From an old mechanic and a retired engineer. The best air filter there ever was is an oil bath type and they were replaced with the throwaway paper elements (mid 1960's) due to servicing the oil bath was messy and time (money) consuming. The problem with paper elements is quality and they don't last long; I've seen the sand get into them and cut right through the paper, not good. The K&N filters were invented by a desert racer who went through a lot of engines due to the paper elements downfall and there is no way an oil bath would work in that environment, due to vehicle movement. Take a look at the air inlet location, airbox design and where you drive (asphalt, sand or high dust) for a real world analysis as to what may come towards the air filter to begin with. Hope this helps and it's a free world to choose which way you want to go.
Yes, remember, my 1973er Super Beetle hat one of these Oil-Bath-Filter.....
Great experience sharing
You always have to balance/ compromise filtration efficiency and decreased horsepower. At low RPMs there probably won't be much of a difference. At higher rpms the K&N will have a very small advantage. In acceleration experiments , it will be a fraction of a second.
One good experiment to try is long distance MPG measurements in hot dusty conditions versus ice cold clear winter air and see how each of these perform.
Modern engines aren't failing due to anything to do with the quality (or lack thereof) of OEM paper air filters, however. This isn't the 1960's anymore.
Aren't all K&N oiled...?
Really appreciate this. Hadn't thought about how a more permissive filter let's in more particles into the engine.
Thanks man!
I would suggest that looking insider the air-box is a good indication. it should be clean on the manifold side, dusty and dirty on the intake side. I guess a lot depends on the environment the vehicle is used in..A vehicle that is used only on public roads/highways is obviously going to have an easier life than one that is using rough tracks/off roading for extended periods.... I use a K&N filter on my Triumph Street Triple 675 with no problems..
Forget "performance" filters. On track day, just buy a brand new OEM filter, take it to the track, and install it there. A brand new filter flows as well as any, and offers much more protection for an engine, especially, because tracks are often more dusty than the road, and, the engine will draw much more air while racing, than just cruising down the road. Between those two things, you REALLY need the filtration capabilities of an OEM filter!
You should have got equal measured amounts of contaminants and pulled them through the filters with a hover for equal times and measured the amounts that passed again.
good test...he is not lying to an unbeliever
the test was simple, logic and effective.
depend how you want your car to do. OEM for daily driving, BMC/K&N or Sprint Filter for high performance.
So OEM on regular days & BMC/K&N on weekends?!
@@ntwalipat2 up to you if you want to go that far.
@@ntwalipat2yes
What people seem to forget that these sport filters aren't technically supposed to be used for daily driving.
My daily is my only car and I bought a K&N filter when I want to do more spirited driving during my holidays, for the daily commute I always use the OEM style air filters :)
Yeah you’re totally right. I’m only use K&N filter for track day… other than that, OEM paper filter should work flawlessly for daily drive and keep engine longevity and durability for many years ahead.
I would be interested in oil analysis results from a car running with and without the reusable filter.
I have seen these oil analysis tests with OEM VS K&N with no prob with K&N at all. Even K&N had better filteration rate and prevented harmful materials from accumulating inside the engine such as zinc, iron....etc
Watch these 3 videos presenting the results of used oil analyses before and after switching to a K&N air filter:
th-cam.com/video/uvExyfxzsRo/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/cU8UMlMzi30/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/7D9lJxQ1s-U/w-d-xo.html
@@hamedso9030 you're just straight up wrong. Every video that does the oil analysis shows a drastic increase in Iron coming out of the oil. Meaning there is a massive increase (up to 40%) in engine wear.
Thank you, so annoyed that this isn’t talk about more or tested more. Would like to see how foam filters like Pipercross would perform and with finer particles. If you are ever up to it.
You should throw the dirt on the correct side of the air flow.
LoL it's absolutely the same
I cleaned the k&n filter on the mustang and it got less horse power I think the oil mess with the mass air flow sensor
Yeah i would set them out for a day after oiling.
I agree to give the filter time to absorb the oil....but a can of M A F sensor cleaner should remove the oil on sensors...Disconnect the battery first or unclip the M.A.F and let dry an hour or so before reinstalling...I'm no mechanic..But this worked for me and many others as well on youtube.
Was it just me or anybody else got uncomfortable when he was pouring sand from other end of the beaker
Fantastic video thank you for this. I just did a magnets on the oil video and was wondering about metal dust getting through the filter and here you have it.
The only filter that works as it should be is OEM one
the OEM made of paper a strong impact of sand hit it will break it
@@vincentyap3188 how can even sand, the same amount in the video go inside the hood of a car? and more so, how can you make the air filter violently shake like he did in the video?
strong impact of sand?r u driving through a sand storm
@@automachineheadoffroading 🤦♂️
@@thehobbyist5292sand dunes and and engine is sucking air in at high speed use your brain
9:20 11:00 12:45
Could you do the same test with the pipercross filter, and / or other types of filters, for example foam?
The K&N type filters work because of the pulsing effect of the air.
The filter media has microfibers that vibrate and trap the dust.
Racing Engine builders have been wrong for years..... No air filters fitted.... Massive engine wear quickly.
@@gj91471 I don't know what year of racing engine you are talking about but modern race engines always use filtering for longer races where contaminants may ruin the engine. When I was at Keith Black Racing engines they weren't used on Drag race engines or boats due to them being rebuilt after every pass. But racing engines use good aftermarket filters.
@@Mikab61 Yes, the rubber coming off the tires and dust results in grinding the engine.
Still... Loads of guys run without air filters
I'm sure you've seen this effect by high-speed filming at high magnification. Or, you and your source are just full of bulls...t
Isn't that the reverse position? Usually the area filled with dust is the bottom, and the clean area is the top. Or is it the same?
After this, I am sticking to OEM filters for my motorcycles.
I sold all my DNA, K&N filters a while ago for my bikes due to this, TBH they were running worse for me with them too as they're so out of spec compared to factory filters
@@bikersquest What filter would you recommend if installing a full aftermarket exhaust? Wouldn't using the OEM filter make the bike run rich?
@@skiggy007 I avoid running aftermarket exhausts if I can as stock is designed best to get most out of the bike
@@bikersquest To get the MOST of what, performance or longevity of your motor? You have to qualify what you are looking for. Known fact that aftermarket header and muffler with proper fueling will outperform most stock set ups. But there have been some tests I can vaguely remember being very close, especially on newer bikes.
@@sfzx54 Reliability yeah, I'm not looking for tuning my bikes anymore. of coiurse with a map and full system + high flow filter you can get lot more out of a bike but I rather just get a faster bike at that point.
I had a performance cold-air intake system(Stillen Gen3 long-tube) installed on my 370z as part of a performance upgrade plan. The system uses two large cone-shaped K&N oiled cotton air filters. I've had it on for about 20K miles and have had two used engine oil analysis reports done during this time. Neither report shows excessive levels of silica(sand) in the oil or anything else that would suggest that excessive dirt is getting through. My examination of the whole intake tracts on both cylinder banks showed no dirt deposits downstream of the filter elements. There was also no sign of oil residue on the MAF sensors, the throttle bodies or anywhere in between.
My experience with the filters has not been such that I would have a concern about excessive dirt getting through the filters in normal usage. The only downside that I would see to the use of these filters is the higher upfront cost and the necessity to carefully clean and reoil them. These filters typically last much longer than paper surface filters, so the higher initial cost is at least partially balanced out in the long run. This system, plus the less restrictive exhaust that I put on the car, resulted in so much more air flowing through the engine that my tuner had to recalibrate the air-fuel ratios over the whole rev range and to optimize the ignition timing. This resulted in an estimated 55 hp increase in peak crankshaft horsepower. All of it was a worthwhile thing for me to have done.
ma l'aspirazione non funziona con il filtro al contrario? tu butti da sopra ma il verso dell'aria è al contrario o mi confondo io?!?
Been running K&N for years, no problems.
Decades
Are you running the same vehicle for high mileage or do you trade often?
@@deere3321 just change it or oil it every year and you’ll be fine.
Cars engine does not broke down that fast
@@angelgjr1999 why you have to oil the filter?
Whats the point of that?
Great video, thanks!
Excellent test friend, I liked it, I would use the Italian red filter, that would be my second option.
Appreciate you doing these tests, and a more restrictive paper filter will obviously filter better than a higher flowing oiled filter. But it's funny how for the first paper filter you're barely tapping it on the table so no particles go through while the K&N you're hitting it on the table much much harder, re-watch your own video and see for yourself.
You might have to watch the video again because he used decent force tapping the paper filter as he did with the others.
I thought the same, it is noticeable especially on the iron particles
what is the definition of "not too bad, not bad". it doesn't really entail anything
Any thoughts or circumstantial experimental data also for foam ?
Great question. Not sure yet. Foam can be finicky because each company can use different layers and densities so youd have to test several.
@@bhvrdr thanks. Also agreed. But the fact foam is the choice for off road and KN type filters recommend foam as pre filter to increase filtering efficiency up to 90% makes me think foam may still be as good as paper type filter.
can you do this same test on aem dry flow drop in filter?
Good idea. Ill do more
Has the K&N been oiled? Also, doesn't the air pass through all those filter from the bottom to the top, not from the top to the bottom, as you had poured the sand/dust?
All filters are directional so why did you pour the test contaminates on the wrong side (air out let) VS instead of the air inlet side? Also the K&N appeared to be not oiled properly which would make it an instant fail just like your test.
Lastly as someone who has used oiled filters for over 30 years I would not recommend them for a daily used street vehicle. I use them on 100% off road applications, race vehicles and other vehicles often used in very dusty conditions. They work just a good as paper filters “if oiled correctly” and that is the issue many have IE not knowing how much oil to use or what the correct service interval is.
The kn filter is oiled from the factory to their specs. It was brand new. You couldn't oil it better to their specifications since they actually did it. The filter media itself is not directional.
most carp in motorcycle facing back, so the chance of sucking the sand have small percentage
@@vincentyap3188 I guess you’ve never been caught behind other vehicles or gone riding in a group? Where can I find these completely empty roads and trails?
If a filter is letting more air in it is letting other particles in also.
Exactly! Idk this is so hard for people to understand
Yup, only way to increase airflow while maintaining filter characteristics is by increasing surface area
As long as it filters out the harmful stuff it doesn't really matter
So what i got from this video is OEM filter is good all around. But other filters are more for if you want a bit more air to gain that +1 hp in your car?
You know that the K&N filter should be slightly moistened with a special oil dedicated to these filters. I do not know about the sprintfilter,or BMC filters but I am guessing that it should also not be used dry either.
Of course. The bmc and kn are oiled filters that come from the factory pre oiled. Thsts cotton gauze style. Sprint is single layer synthetic dry filter. Never ever oil those or theyre ruined.
It’s not always dirty, but when it is rest assured your engine will be receiving particulates if your filter is not oem.
12345 testing using the most scientific methods. Lmao...
You could have done this test with the Sprint Filter P037 which has a filtering of 37 microns against the 80 microns of the tested model.
Most engine damage is done by particles in the 5-20 micron range. Even a 37 micron filter does not inspire confidence though it's better than 80 for sure.
Esos filtros *sólo* son para motores que uses en carreras o en un circuito y que no van a tener que durar 300 mil km. *No* son para un motor de uso normal a diario. Para un motor que quieres que dure cientos de miles de km. hay que filtrar el aire todo lo que se pueda, aunque eso suponga una mayor restricción de flujo/menor caudal de aire.
Was the K&N treated with the oil before you tested it? If not, that could make all the difference with its ability to filter finer particulates.
That's exactly my question. The video seems the filters were dry.
I can't imagine particle coming thru like this thru an oiled filter
Great video..How about the use of the Kn oil with the filter?.I live in the mountains..up a Non paved dirt road...I wonder if the oil added would catch the fine dust that I see all summer long..Perhaps another test?..
Thanks. The bmc and kn filters come oiled from the factory. Yeah you definitely want to use them oiled but i wouldn't oil a sprint filter. They're designed to go without it and you could cause clogging or breakdown oiling it.
I buy my Yamaha royal star venture used. It had 30,000 miles on it, and it had K & N stock replacement air filters, there are two air filters on these machines.
I have a video on my TH-cam channel, Yamaha royal star venture major flaw is the title of it. In that video, I pointed out all the filth and dust inside my intake system. I was blaming that on loosefitting plumbing of the intake system to the carburetors. But it turned out to be the K and N Eric layers were leading all of that dirt in… I have another video pointing out what I would do if I were anyone watching the video that had KNN air filters in their machine. They may pass more air which they do in testing, but, they also let more than 10 times the dirt get in. A TH-camr with a website called project farm prove that by sifting flour into a box with a vacuum below the box, pulling air through the filters in a comparison with a meter that measured particulates that go through the filters. The K and N oiled air filter was the one that passed the most air, and the most Particulates
Great content
Thanks man!
if this does not persuade you from buying an aftermarket crapfilter then by all means go ahead go for it and take a chance on scratching up them cylinder wallz over time and reducing the life span of your engine ! it is so worth that 1-5 hp.
After 10 years of having a KN in my car she starts up like a charm. Hardly uses oil.... Yeah really bad for my car..... Cylinder walls and piston rings must be shot...... SMH
@@omgwtflmaololrotfl2368 you can drive around for 10 years without an air filter and what will that prove if your car starts up ? 😆 people at the track run without air filter whatsoever you could be just like them.
When he tested both of the reusable filters and said not bad, it is bad. Because if you can see “anything” with the naked eye after his test, that filter is garbage. You notice you couldn’t see anything visible with the naked eye after the paper filter test. Particle abrasives that are far too small to see, will do long term damage to your engine.
Thanks for the info
When it comes to filters its not the vehicle that benefits it's the person. If you're a lazy person get the OEM filter. If you like spending hours on your vehicle then get the Sprint. And if you want peace of mind get the BMC/K&N.
I agree except piece of mind would be the OEM filter as they filter best and being cheap would be the KN filters as they are much less expensive than most OEM over the course of vehicle ownership
@@bhvrdr the problem with ORM filter is that you have to keep replacing. With KN and BMC you can simple clean and reuse. When out in the woods I rather have one that I can reuse.
@@h.nguyen4193 it is a good point you make which is the difference between having to clean a filter vs just replacing a filter. I'm personally not a big fan of cleaning the cotton gauze filters they really are made out of cotton gauze and if you've ever inspected one after 100000 miles the cotton has broken down quite significantly I'd be happy to show pictures of ones of mine that have. I tend to replace cotton gauze filters at around 50,000 miles. I don't use them in any vehicle that sees significant Dusty environment of course.
@@bhvrdr I ride a triumph street triple motorcycle and it’s wicked important to have a clean filter. But the trade offs are the same. Instead of changing or cleaning the filter after years, a motorcycle filter is change or cleaned annually.
@@h.nguyen4193 those are incredible motorcycles
You spilled the iron dust over the back side and then drug the filter across it when you pushed the filter back on the very last one, i feel like most of the iron dust we seen was spilled
Large particles really are not a huge issue to motors, yes the can score cylnder walls but its the stuff 5 microns and smaller which can fit between the tightest of tolerances in a motor.
Big particles get filtered out be it in oil filter, air filter, or simply can't progress further into the motor and get drained out with oil. The finest of dust is what makes lap after lap around the motor causing wear each time.
Also the same stuff which will not get filtered out by your typical oil filter. That's why filtration at low microns matters.
Thank you for this video, this is quite interesting. However without recreating the pressurised environment you will only be guessing about the filtering effectiveness. Send the filters to Project farm! He could use the other half
PS I realise it's an older video
have you oiled the k&n filter? I bet not
Can you do this test with the DNA filter?
Dna is a 4 layer cotton gauze. Just like K&N and BCM
@@bhvrdr which one is the best? DNA ir KeN?
@@pqp6651 they should be extremely similar. Same exact technology. Go with the one thats less expensive.
For the biker guys here: Should i install now the BMC Filter in my yamaha r1 rn19 or better use the OEM one? I am honestly confused now....
Figure oem gives best filtration so if you dirt bike go with oem. Bmc / k&n are middle ground with better flow and ok filtration so if you street bike or race go with those. Sprint id only put on a dedicated race bike.
@@bhvrdr Thanks for your answer. I only ride on the normal streets but dont want to hurt my engine if I use the BMC longer. I think then i go with the OEM. I thought sport Filter filters the air much more better..
I need the info on the organ filter. That one looks like it could fit on my motorcycle when cut in half.
I think I found something, thanks anyway. have a great day. keep spreading your smile.
the best video of ever!! really thanks
The filters shown here were oiled?
You don't oil sprint...it looks like I wasted 100euro on filter. I'm not installing it after seeing this video.
Was wondering why you put the particles on the wrong side of the filter?
Only so they didn't fall off. The media itself is non directional
A filter that is less restrictive WILL let in more debris, it's as simple as that.
I bet installed in cars these filters will not knock hard on themselves letting debris through as when knocked on the table
+ If you are not doing of road and hitting asphalt only, then these performance filters + remap will be alright
nothing beats stock parts for reliability
Yep and the stock filter provides more than enough air for the engine. Just change them when dirty
This is where we have the trouble. The authorized dealers fleece us. They charge 3 times the cost of filters found online!!!
Keep telling yourself that, if that was the truth you wouldn't be able to mod engine to get double the HP by using other brands of parts. Car manufacturers cut costs everywhere they can. I also guarantee the decent quality suspension will also be much better than stock.
planned obsolescence
You put the sand in the wrong direction... that's not the same direction as air flow..
It doesn't really matter. It's not like they make the micron better one side, it's all wind into the mesh in and out.
it doesn't matter, both sides should not allow dirt to pass through the filter.
not even true
*Thanks for the interesting video*
So leave your high flow high performance filters for race cars, they rebuild engines constantly
Too bad i just bought sprint filter a few hours ago and watch your video lol... Mind as well use it and see what i will get..
can you do a test with the pipecross filter ?
Was the BMC oiled ?
Yes
Hello, one question for you. Have you primed the performance filters with their brand oil primer as they should be? 99% of the times they don’t come primed from the factory and you haven’t mentioned it in your video so that’s why I’m asking. Thank you !
Great question. Yes i have. All K&N and all BMC come oiled from the factory btw and i have oil and cleaning kits from both.
The main function of an air filter is to FILTER air. Of course I choose the filter-type that does its job best. I won't waste money for cotton-"filters" that in fact are sieves and unqualified.
How many layers was the k&n style filter?
They are 4 layer offset. Same for most quality cotton gauze
Oil analysis shows that 100% of the time you get an increase in iron from your engine oil when you put in one of these filters. That means more engine wear.
Don't do it. Even then videos where the "professional K&N user/maintainer" tries to prove they're fine, they miss the mark and show that their engine is being consumed up to 40% faster
The video could be misleading. You need to show whether the filters were oiled as required.
The video seems like the filters were dry, which is not the right way to use these filters
Thank you for comparison its very helpful
Non of these are actually K&N Brand air filters just similar style. Wish is was with a real deal though.
Run the same test with a foam filter.
Don't use a Pipercross as they are too thin.
A Unifilter or something designed for dusty conditions would be ideal.
Foam filters ~50% more than paper.
🙂
what about 2x k&n? im curious that one...
The only thing that k&n is good for is keeping leaves out of your motor. Anything smaller will get through😂
Did you oil the BMC?
Bmc comes oiled
when you drive a car or ride a motorcycle the amount of sand and dust will not as much show in this video, unless you purposely pour a cup of sand or dust on the filter, as shown in this video
Grazie per questo confronto ero in procinto di installare un filtro sportivo, ma a questo punto non lo farò neppure per sbaglio. Non si sacrifica il motore per vantaggi insignificanti in termini prestazionali.
per piacere e per un altro pensiero it prego di guardare un astro video di “Frank” di You Tube canale “Motorvate”. Gracie.
mmmm think I’ll just change my OEM annually regardless of mileage. Just one drive across a dusty car park with a performance filter in and all that crap will be going into your engine.
I have visited 2 air filter companies inching BMC in Italy. I real world applications these results would not happen and tiny particles will burn up anyway. I appreciate your effort but very deceptive results.
Sand and iron burn up?
@@bhvrdr ....if it is so bad for the engine that the small particles will be sucked inside - all engines would be on the junkyard after say about 50.000 miles! But it isn´t so!
I bet there are engines outside with 200.000 miles fittet with sport filters and they are in a totally normal condition!
they do happen over time...so you visiting companies in Italy proves that aftermarket filters work better than OEM? OHHH K LMAO .... go back to those two BMC filter companies and ask them to put Your car on a dyno rev it to 6000-7000 rpm and let you air snorkel suck up hand full of sand ...first do it with OEM filter and after scope your cylinder walls and then do the same thing with BMC , K&N or which ever aftermarket performance filter... let them two companies scope those cylinders walls after that ... lol
th-cam.com/video/XjHjpuSjDvM/w-d-xo.html
@@omgwtflmaololrotfl2368 debunked
www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html
These test are flawed because our not mimicking airflow correctly. You poured the sand/debris on the wrong side of filter.
Rất cảm ơn bài kiểm tra này của bạn, rất mong nhận được nhiều video bổ ích như thế này !!!
Đù gặp vn lun . Hello vn 😂
@@PHAMTUANMOTORCYCLE e chào a Tuấn 😁
@@NguyenNhutLinh a coi review lại cái lọc cuối. Đúng y bữa xe a bụi vào đầy .
The thing is most people are idiots and they get sold on the whole high flow race filter thing when the only thing they do with their car is drive it on the road like on the road when that stuff is designed for race cars and bikes on a track for very short amounts of time with engines that get rebuilt and maintenanceed extremely often. OEM air filters are designed for people who will drive a car on dirty roads for long periods of time. If you aren't driving on a race track or maintenance and rebuilding your engine very often stick with the OM filter. If you race and every single horsepower matters use sprint or don't even use an air filter at all if you want the most power and max airflow. But if you want your engine to stay clean and last as long as possible stick with the OEM
That is a pretty common sense answer that is the trade-off you want more air in your engine to produce more horsepower supposedly the obvious answer is yes it's going to let more debris in as well choose your poison.
Thanks pro !!
No problem bro!
Sprint filter only catches flies :D
il genio ha fatto la prova al contrario....
Testi sanki hatalı test arka taraftan yapılmalıydı
The filters seem very dry to me. Not sure you being very honest. Maybe do a test where you show how you lube the non oem filters.
Also go read up on the pulse effect from the valves and performance filters.
K&N and BMC come pre-oiled from the factory. They actually caution against over oiling as this can damage fine wire maf sensors. If you oil a sprint filter you'd destroy it. Sprint filters are dry filters
Been using KN in my car for 10 years. 0 issues. Same goes for my DNA in my bike. Everything is happy...
@@bhvrdr car does not use oil. So cylinder walls and piston rings must still be fine. Also my car is 22 years old 1999 model. She has 250k kilos on the clock. Straight 6 4L motor. So not a new car and she has had her fair share of work. I service her myself.
Dunno after the filter change from oem to the KN she just seems so much more happy. Towing big caravan every now and then. Never broke down since I had her from new. Not once. Did not feel a performance increase maybe just a bit better consumption on the open road.
@@omgwtflmaololrotfl2368 that's excellent but anecdotal evidence is not scientific. Glad youve had good luck!
Engineers : **went to college, learned about engineering and then developed the right filter for the engine**
Boy racers : "K&N filter wow must buy!! And it only costs 4x as much as the OEM filter!!"
Who do you think design K&N filters? Farmers and fishermans (with all the deserved respect)?
@@mc1996 no no they ARE engineers they just did not get hired by car manufacture companies ...all biter they got together and came up with a ploy to swindle money from boy racers by designing aftermarket filters and it worked . :)
@@hunterharison LOL, because car manufactures have only the best engineers...
You realize that K&N filters are on the market for 50 years by now, and are the most used filters on race (on and off road) cars, bikes, trucks.
Do you know much manufactures with 60 years of history, 50 years on the market and with air filters designed to virtually every vehicle with a engine?
@@mc1996 car manufactures dont have the best engineers...but just because someone makes something for 50-60 years and does fancy adds to lure not so bright it does not mean they sell superior product filtration wise... most bikers, racers , tear up and rebuild those engines often for you to use them as an example...lol ... to make a claim aftermarket performance filters filter just as good if not better is just dumb.
@@hunterharison Who buys a performance air filter for the better filtration? No one, LOL. All that to say these filters don't filter as good as a paper filter on most of original models? No wonder, what a surprise! Its not suppose too.
Who is being dumb now?
will not matter to the 'racer boys ' they will still run the k&n filter beace they know it will make 20-25 more hp
Its a shame you didn't replicate dust or sand actually traveling up through the filter like how it would be in vehicle ,pointless test
I prefer every time when I change oil change air filter. Nothing gonna happened if you are one's year buy new OM filter.
👏👏👏👏👏
OEM ONLY!!!!!🏍💨💨💨
yea ill be sticking with oem paper filter with carbon filter laid on top from factory on my f90 m5. Everyone on Bmw platform are doing front mount intakes, and this video proves its not the best choice.
Exactly what I expected, 'normal' filters always do better.
No way I'm going to put those "filters" into my performance car. To gain 2Hp and grind down my cylinders? NO WAY...
The testing isn’t that well. You wouldn’t have any problems. I switched to a cold air intake to remove these problems. Oem filters are usually pretty shitty quality and I had more dust in my air box with oem them drop in air filters like k&N. I now have a aem cold air intake for my 19 Sti
@@Goyxrd3 Only cold air intake for mine is done in US, and I'm in Italy. And costs A LOT (more than 480$ from Eurocompulsion). Now, considering my car has a 200HP engine which is the electronically (exclusively) downpowered version of the 280HP and that with a stock airfilter I can bring it back to around 300HP, I think I'll go on that way :) No need for cold air intake as it's already done that way from Alfa, the only reason for a change would be the (good) intake noise, but not for 480$ :)
I have had K&n in my car not for performance but saving some $$$. Been 10 years in my car and I have had 0 issues. Same goes for my MT09 I have DNA filter again not for performance but saving $$$ here and there.
The test this guy does is somewhat flawed. As he completely fills the filter with dust. Wont happen in real world. And his fters seems dry. They need a proper coating of oil.
I put a K&N in my car.
Seller: K5 GSXR 750 FOR SALE. mint! Never raced.
Buyer: what type of filter?
Seller: only the best K&N
Buyer: it's pretty but I will keep looking.
Why are you saying um/uh so much?
0% dirt To my engine 430tkm drive already so ofcourse i choose oem seeing dust intake manifold not make worth To couple horsepower