Toyota 22RE pickup dashpot adjust fixes unstable idle (dropping to 500 RPM's when coming to a stop)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ส.ค. 2021
- This video outlines how adjusting the dashpot seems to have fixed the mysterious "idle dropping to 500 RPM's when coming to a stop" problem on my 1990 Toyota pickup with a 22RE motor. Also, I should note that I'm currently running my base ignition timing at 8.0 degrees BTDC (set with the diagnostic jumper installed). That seems to work better than the factory 5 degrees. Also running my plug gap at .025" and one heat range hotter. Most is largely stock, except for the LCE ported head and cam (and exhaust).
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Wow. So simple and explains so much of how my truck was behaving. Thank you for the video sir.
I adjusted it and it seems like it helped, been driving it like this for 10yrs. In my case cold start idle is fine, warm start however not so much. Low idle. I adjusted the dash pot and voila warm starts definately better. Still need to test drive but so far so good. Thx man
Thanks! Yeah, the dashpot helps out at times. Sometimes I disable it, other times I run it. A lot depends on where you set your idle also. Lately I've been running more like a 850 to 900 RPM idle, so I haven't been using the dashpot lately.
Great series of videos. Not to many folks anymore like us who have fun with these 22r/re motors. Doing another 22re build myself right now. Something your might be interested in with you level of detail is I sent my plenum and lower intake off to be extrude honed. I know a lot of money for minimal gains but it will be pretty and hope to gain a little efficiency. Keep them coming. Thanks
That's pretty cool. I was just telling a buddy of mine about Extrude honing the other day. Have you seen the porting they do now where they make a bunch of divots (sort of like a golf ball) inside the cylinder head ports these days? I'm building a turbocharged 3RZ and was contemplating doing that on the intake ports maybe
@@ray5961 I have seen that, I want to see some flowbench comparisons on that one, would be awesome to see real results.
I have a 1990 22re 4x4 and mine just idles to low. Plus seems to have a slight miss if I hold the rpm’s at 2,000 rpm in neutral making me wonder if I need to adjust my valves or perhaps the chain has some slack in it. I have already done all of the plugs wires cap and button with all Toyota parts. Need to figure out why I idle so low.
Thank for the explanation 🙏. Man i need to dig in like you did. That engine bay looks amazing.
Thank you! I appreciate it.
Very clean engine bay! Inspiring actually
Thanks!
Finally a video!! For a minute I thought you might have had an accident.
Just been busy welding rebar :) What's the latest with your truck projects over there?
@@ray5961 I’m sanding it. Not much, i post it on Facebook for sale. But not seeing anyone buying it. So I’m slowly sanding it down when I have time. Bought the 1997 Tacoma and had the seat reupholstered.
@@ericrodriguez8556 Nice. Try selling it on Craigslist or cars.com - that's where the action is usually. Or eBay Motors is also good.
That is a hella clean 22re!
Thanks man!
Have been enjoying your Toyota videos, thanks for the content and ideas. Your water neck, did that come tapped 3/8-19 BST like the other block plugs? Haven’t seen one like it yet. Seems like the ideal spot to run a thermo switch for the fan.
I'm not sure what threads it had originally. I had to chase it with a 3/8 NPT tap as I recall, in order for the SPAL fan switch to thread in properly. I want to say I also might have had to drill out the hole at the bottom slightly in order to allow the larger diameter SPAL switch to fully thread down to where I needed it. I agree it's a perfect spot to run a fan switch.
God I wish my engine bay look like this! Good video btw
Thanks man! Yeah, many many hours of work on that engine bay haha. I cleaned the entire truck with a can of gas and a rag and a toothbrush basically. If you saw what it looked like when I bought the truck off Craigslist for $800.. you'd be shocked. It was a mess.. and heading for the junk yard. I probably have over 200 hours into it just cleaning parts
Hi Ray I need your Help My 1989 Toyota 22Re Auto Trans .When I start up The Idle Raise up High I did bunch the thing But still High If I bring Idler down then the Engine will stall out when I stop for Trapfic ??? Thanks Ray,
See my other videos about the IAC valve and see if the coolant lines running to it are getting warm
Hey man! I have a question about what the part is called that is right above the dash pot. That the accelerator cable is connected to the part that is rotating. I’m looking for a replacement spring for that specific part I have 89 pickup 4wd 22re
It's usually referred to as the "throttle cable bracket" or something along those lines generally. I'm not sure if it has a widely accepted universal term. For springs, check McMaster.com - they usually have plenty to select from, although maybe not that crazy spring on the plate.
Great video!!! Very informative. I have the same pickup with the same header and most likely the same cam. Everything runs great until today. I drove it for roughly 35 minutes and then I would get on the gas and anything above 2000 rpm’s my truck would bog and cut out. It felt like a fuel delivery issue or like its being choked out. I’m going to pull the o2 sensor to see if my cat is plugged up. After that I’m not sure where to go. Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
Yeah I would check restriction in the exhaust system for sure. Also fuel pressure. Check to any vacuum leaks or cracks in the intake pipe / elbow as well. Let me know if you have any other questions or discover anything else.
Do u have a good video on a egr delete? I like how detailed ur videos are and I’m needing help with an egr issue. May have other issues after finishing egr.
Thanks. I don't have any specific videos for removing the EGR system, but there are some out there. What's the EGR issue you are having?
Very good information! I have an 85 and sometimes the same fault happens to me, how do you adjust the dashpot?
8mm wrench and a 2.5mm allen key. The workshop manual has specs, but in this case I just set it for around 1.5 to 2 seconds. Be sure the dashpot is functioning correctly to begin with also. Mine had a tiny speck of dirt clogging the main hole, which was preventing it from working correctly.
I had the same problem thank you
Ever since I had a rebuilt 2.4L EFI engine installed the engine cuts off sometimes when it is extremely humid. It restarts after I stop and sometimes it turns back on while I depress the gas pedal rapidly. I noticed rain doesn't cause this. I thought it might be the broken cover on the relay block behind the battery but even after I sealed it with a good caulk it still does it. Not sure where to look. The engine also idles rough even after I installed new vacuum lines and found no leaks via spraying starter fluid. .
Sounds like maybe an ignition issue. Check your plugs and make sure they are good. Try running the gap at .025" instead of .032". Mainly, however, I would check to see if there is internal carbon build up / tracing inside the distributor cap.. also, check to see if there is any cross arcing around your coil. If the spark plug wires are old or cracked or anything, sometimes surface moisture on the coil itself will allow sparks to run along the coil and to the frame or coil bracket, etc. Check to ensure all your plug wires are making secure contacts. When this happens, you can also pull the spark plug wires off (or just pull the plug out and keep it in the wire) and touch the plugs to the cylinder head and see if they are showing sparking or not. Humid almost always equals electrical issue.
@@ray5961 Thanks. I had a spare coil, changed it and recently cleaned the parts on the inside of the new distributor. I will do a night check with a spray bottle of water and check for arcing. I also cleared the EFI codes by pulling the fuse for 30 secs, which appears to have made the engine run stronger. Afterwards I drove the vehicle for a few days and learned the Throttle Position Sensor is sending a 11 blink malfunction code. Ordered a new OEM TPS. I am also looking around for a new cover to replace the broken one on the relay block behind the battery. Haven't had any humid weather to see if the problem is corrected. I was reading the manual last night and if the TPS code reappears after I change it I will try running a complete EFI volt test on the ECU. I noticed they didn't clean the intake manifold when they put the new long block in and I am wondering if I should have it cleaned. It is black inside.
@@AlbrightJamesD Cleaning the intake manifold never hurts. It's kinda of a bitch of a job though. I did mine (the plenum and the intake runners) in the kitchen sink over 2-3 days. Nightmare job. The adjustment on the TPS is extremely important and must be perfect. Check the shop manual pages for that.. it's a very fine adjustment; you can't just eyeball that.
@@ray5961 The new TPS made a big difference. Don't have to put my foot into the pedal as much, the motor idles better, responds quicker and the gas mileage went up. I am going to test and if necessary replace the airflow meter. Do you think changing the original 87 catalytic converter will make a difference?
@@AlbrightJamesD That's great news man. On the CAT, it's hard to say. I mean when I first got my truck, I removed the cat and ran carb cleaner and ran the hose through it haha. That seemed to help a little bit. The more exhaust flow you can get the better of course. Try running a test pipe in there for a bit and see how she runs.
It allows the dirty air to flush out so the engine has clean air to burn when you get back on the throttle.hence slow closing of throttle plate at the last part of blade closing.
Yeah, I think that's the basic idea. Helps the catalytic converter do its job a little better too I suspect.
Mine keeps dying when I run the a/c so I tried driving without it but now its dying when I stop unless I slam it into neutral first. Any ideas whatsoever as to why?? Please and thank you
Hard to say. I would start by doing some diagnostics... check compression, check vacuum levels, check for vacuum leaks, etc. I believe there is also some sort of A/C VSV system, although on my truck I don't have A/C so not real familiar with how it all works. My friend's truck had A/C but we removed it all. Just too much trouble.
Does this truck have power steering? Looks like you removed the vacuums lines for the PS pump.
No P/S.. I removed it. There's a video where I talk about it on the channel here actually here th-cam.com/video/6cVDeouHjGE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=V7QE0IJ_QjdTrVWY
my truck doesn’t have the dashpot. should i get one asap?
Nah... it doesn't make a lot of difference either way. I currently have my dashpot disabled on my truck. Doesn't make too much difference usually. Just turn the idle screw up a bit and you should be fine.
hey were did you get all your titanium engine bay hardware
Some of it I had custom made in Russian, China, etc. Most of it, however, came from RaceTi.com - they have really great stuff. All the 12-point nuts come from there. The exhaust studs were all custom made; I used to sell them on eBay
You'd think that slowing down the throttle closing would contribute to a leaner condition since that means more air was allowed in than if the throttle closed faster. I removed the dashpot and all emissions devices from my '94 Xtracab 4x4 DLX 22RE, as well as the VSV that alters the fuel pressure vacuum signal (I was prepared to re-equip that one in case the truck behaved goofy and/or had any quirks starting up hot, but it's been 4 years w/o issue).
I'm also running header (Doug Thorley), test pipe (well, home made flex pipe with flanges to keep stress off the exhaust) and LCE catback. Sometimes on decel in 2nd gear, at low RPM (~1500) I get a nice gurgle, but IDK if that's related to the dashpot being removed.
Yeah, I'm not sure. I have since disconnected my dashpot totally and I'm not having any problems. I believe I have traced the issue I was having to too much oil being drawn in through the PCV valve. I'm still testing, but as soon as I know for sure I may delete this video and post a new updated.
@@ray5961 Interesting. I do have an oil catch can plumbed in between the valve cover PCV and the intake mani plenum. Mine collects maybe about a cup of oil every year. I assume it’s related to my oil consumption, which is bad enough to warrant adding a quart between every 3k mile oil change.
@@cbh148 I'm going to do a video on oil consumption soon here. I ran into similar stuff. For a while my truck was using 1 quart every 450-500 miles and I thought I had oil control ring issues. Turned out it was PCV / baffle issues I think. I made some mods and put the catch can on and discovered it was drawing a huge amount of oil out (about 1.5 oz per 30 miles). After making some modifications to the PCV, I have it down to around 1/2 oz per 35 miles, which is I think around 1 quart maybe over 2000 miles. I've got to modify the internal baffle soon to see if I can reduce it down even more. But thanks for sharing your info, that's really helpful!
@@ray5961 Sounds like a similar path to mine, where I replaced my PCV a few years ago hoping the original one was worn out in an attempt to improve crankcase vacuum and, thus, ring seal to decrease oil consumption. Looking forward to the vid. I've heard some have had luck putting Marvel Mystery Oil in their cylinders, then letting it sit overnight to free up rings, but I haven't tried it.
@@cbh148 I've poured everything you can think of into my cylinders lol. It definitely helps free things up. Most of the oil is being drawn through the PCV typically. In my case, I had to cut off one of the baffles for my dual row timing chain conversion and I think that opened up a path to allow a bunch of oil to get sucked out. I just was messing around with how the PCV is mounted and went back to more of a stock setup; the result was 5 oz of oil sucked into my oil catch can in 88 miles. Unreal.
I just got a 95 pickup 22re and its having the same issue stalling at red lights due to low rpms especially when i put the A/C , i adjusted the dash pot and it definitely helped just not liking the engine being at 1800 rpms when its hot and cold . What can i do to fix the issue?
It's hard to say.. the dash pot doesn't have a lot to do with these sorts of issues typically. It can be helpful, but it's not the end all be all. I would start by running some Berryman B12 chemtool fuel injector cleaner through your gas tank. That can help clean out injectors. Also, check the door inside your AFM to make sure it swings smoothly and there's no binding taking place in there. You might wanna check to ensure your coolant temp wiring and sensor are all working properly (the one on the intake runner up front). Same goes for the wiring harness to the O2 sensors - make sure those are clean (the sensors). On my truck originally I had breaks in the wiring on the O2 harness and that caused issues. Sometimes pulling the 15A EFI fuse out for 5 minutes to reset the ECU can help a bit. You also wanna check for vacuum leaks around the O-ring on the idle adjustment screw as well as for a good seal around the dipstick. Check to make sure your PCV system is working. If you have a vacuum gauge check idle vacuum levels. Also a fresh set of spark plugs can often really improve things, especially if you are burning some oil past the rings or something. Those are some things to check out.
@@ray5961 so the dashpot didn’t help it at all, i moved the airflow on the throttle and rpms went up as of right now, the ac kicks on and off and it hasn’t stalled yet; im going to take ir for a spin see what happens lol
@@E93AZlivin Yeah, definitely check out that AFM door.. if it isn't swinging freely inside there, it will tend to stick and that can really screw up your idle something awful. Here's a video talking about it: th-cam.com/video/oBBr7MPoXaw/w-d-xo.html
@@ray5961 will look into that too bro thank you!!
@@E93AZlivin you're welcome man. Let me know if you have any other questions.. any time.
What spark plug wires are those?
Those are MSD 8.5mm spark plug wires (part # MSD-31949) ordered from Summit Racing for $69.15 - they are really great. I love them. Make sure your distributor is the normal kind, not with the little pins (which I think Toyota switched over to in later years). But yeah, the best wires ever.
Hey Ray how you doing? Why my engine do not drop the rpm’s when I bridge te1 and e1 ? Check engine flashes
It's hard to say, but make sure the engine is up to full operating temp for one thing (this will help ensure the IAC valve has fully closed). Also, when you do jump TE and E1 what base timing are you seeing on your timing light? It should be around 5 degrees BTDC when jumpered and then when you remove the jumper it should pop up to around 12 degrees approximately. I run mine at 7 degrees and when I pull the jumper I think it goes up to around 13 degrees or so. I run my idle at 850-900 RPM's usually.
Yeah, it doesn’t change at all
Timing mark is on 12 degrees
TPS is adjusted
New timing chain
New harmonic balancer and still the same
@@estuardoleiva5647 Sounds like you could have the camshaft off by 1 tooth perhaps. On the camshaft gear, it's 36 teeth, so each tooth is a 10 degree error. Who did the timing chain install?
My mechanic did the timing chain
So you think the distributor is one tooth off ? Thankyou for your help buddy
@@estuardoleiva5647 It's easy to do accidentally if you aren't familiar w/ the 22RE and/or you don't work on them all that often. The alignment marks on the camshaft gear can be a little bit confusing at first. It is also easy to accidentally slip a link on the chain during installation (depending on how you do the job). Here's a video which shows a bit of information on alignment - th-cam.com/video/MnP3DcsUf7g/w-d-xo.html - try adjusting the distributor as far as it will go and see if you can get back to 5 degree initial timing when the Te an E1 are jumpered up.
I'm starting to have an issue with my 94 toyota pick up it turns on with with no hesitation it idles perfectly fine when I have it In park but last week I was at a light and when i took off it started to sputter and jerk as I was pressing the gas and it almost had no power until it just stalled out completely, any idea in what this issue could be ? Like i said it has no issue starting up and idles completely fine on park its just the whole accelerating issue and having almost no power and then stalling out
could be a lot of things, but I'd start by checking your plugs to see if they are dirty or oily and also check fuel pressure.
@@ray5961 thank you sir i removed one of the spark plugs and it had oil on the thread but not on the electrode im going to replace all of them and will run a pressure test
@@AlanGonzalezAGON which plug # had oil? Yeah, a compression test is a good idea. Pull the 15A EFI fuse when you run it and keep the throttle plate open. All plugs out.. PSI should be around 170 +/- across the board
@@ray5961 will do and it was spark plug #4
@@AlanGonzalezAGON Do you live in an area with any hills? Sometimes what happens on the 22RE is that it sucks oil through the PCV into the intake manifold... then when you go up a hill, that puddle of oil rolls back and gets drawn into cylinder #4. Not always, but if you see blue smoke coming out when you are going up a hill under load, you might want to check to see if there is oil being drawn into the intake.
Nice job on the motor and compartment it looks super clean . You dont see that much. I thought i was the only goofball that would do that to a toyota truck. Nice job!!!!
haha thanks! Yeah, it's a lot of cleaning, that's for sure :)
Am I missing something...what do we actually do to adjust the dashpot?
You basically adjust that little tip which goes in and out, so that when you release the throttle, it will settle down gradually at the end (to a count of about 1.5 seconds or so). Make sure the dashpot itself isn't clogged with dirt, since that can stop it from working correctly (and mine did originally have that issue). You might want to also try setting your base timing to around 7 degrees, instead of 5 and set your idle more like 850-950 - I've had much better luck with that.
How did you adjust it?
There is a threaded shaft and a nut... however on the later models they changed it and there is no longer any adjustment (like on the 94 model, for example).
What state are you in ?
I try to always been in a state of equilibrium or nirvana man...
Hey this sounds almost exactly what is happening to mine , but mine will idle at like 250 and gets a little sputtery.
Yeah, getting a steady idle from the 22RE is always entertaining haha.
@@ray5961 I adjusted the screw on the throttle body that adjust the idle and it will fix it but then when I drive it then it starts doing it again
@@ray5961 also do you think that a new air filter would help raise the idle up some top mine is dirty
@@aidanrobbins1619 Try taking the filter out as a test. It's probably not the issue, but it's easy to rule out
@@aidanrobbins1619 You might wanna try inspecting / cleaning your plugs. Dirty or oily plugs will also cause unstable idle issues. Also make sure coolant is flowing around the IAC valve (I have other videos about that specifically and there are some tests you can do to rule the IAC out). Try some fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank also, that can really help. I use Gum Out tune up or sometimes seafood concentrated fuel injector cleaner. Berryman is also very good.
I wouldn’t worry 500 is very sweet
It richens up to idle faster and leans out to slow down
Take it off lol and they you get nice back fires when u slow down lol
Yeah, I noticed that when I had it disabled the other day. Fun stuff.