Toyota 4runner pickup 22RE - rough, unstable, surging idle only when warm hot cold start injector
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- This is a follow up video to my previous "Idle Air Control IAC valve" video. This video addresses the function of the cold start injector as it relates to idling problems after warming to operating temperature.
To see the original IAC video, click here:
• Toyota 4runner pickup ...
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA W2D5 | Fall | พลาดวันนี้ จะต้องเสียใจ](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A5-Cuo12p6A/mqdefault.jpg)
What injectors are this?
Mr. Monkeynts They are Bosch injectors - here is the link where I purchased them: www.fiveomotorsport.com/bosch-0280155997-toyota-4runner-pickup-upgrade/
@@ray5961 ❤
Everyone told me this before but my problem was the throttle positioner marked it replaced it, back to perfect idle and holding at 1750 rpm at idle normal operating temp! 22re has a self diagnostic capability!!! jump T1 to E2 read the flash code on check engine light on the dash.
That is the cleanest engine I've seen so far. I don't own this kind of vehicle but it is interesting to know, I'm in the process of looking for one with this engine. Thanks
Thanks! Yeah, they are really great trucks
you do an excellent job of making these vids and keeping them so clear and concise. thanks so much.
Thanks! I've been trying to keep the videos a lot more focused and on point lately. I realized a lot of my older TH-cam videos ramble on way too much.
Awsome video, thank you for posting this, clean motor btw.
Thanks man! It's getting there.
Thanks so much for this video. Gave me a much better understanding of an issue I am having with an idle surge on my '85 mr2.
SUBSCRIBED! dude, you are clear and straight to the point. Excellent explanations.
Excellent video
Wow, you the man to go too. I’ve had my 22re since new back in 88’. SR5 4x4. etc.
This is So Much Appreciated you sharing your Knowledge of do’s & don’ts. Are those LC Engineering headers?
Thanks man :) Yes, the exhaust shown is the LCE header - this one here: www.lceperformance.com/LCE-Street-Header-Kit-2WD-Direct-Fit-22R-RE-1982-1-p/1041031.htm - it's very nice quality. Very good fit; ceramic coated.
Thank YOU...GREAT Diagnosis 💯💯💯
Thank you sir I had the same issues and now I know what was causing it. Super clean motor 👌
no the cold start thermo time switch only triggers the cold start injector for a few seconds just to get the truck running it doesn't keep on injecting fuel after the motor is running. You could have a leaking cold start injector and that would definitely cause issues with fuel mixture when the truck is warm.
Thank you very much for the info for us Toyota 22RE owners.
gsg5master You're most welcome!
I think you just solved my problem! I have been having issues with idling only when the truck is warmed up.
theTECHYnewb282 Good luck! Let me (and everyone) know if you solve it and what you find out
My '91 pickup started doing this again after I changed out the IAC valve about 3 years ago. The Duct-Tape Trick confirmed it. I took the IAC valve off and all looks good. Still fairly clean so not sure why it's causing this problem again. I have noticed that the cooling system water is rusty and chunky. Anti-freeze doesn't help, and flushing the water hose to the IAC didn't stop the surging. Stumped!
It could be a couple of things... there could be a blockage in the coolant passage side of the IAC valve. You might want to open it and see if you can clean it up inside, if you haven't already. Also, run hot water through it and confirm the cone / needle thing is actually closing (I have a video which shows the IAC valve hooked up to my sink, which shows how it should move). The other thing you can do, just with regard to the cooling system in general is flush it using this coolant flush made by Evap-o-rust. I forget the name, but I can look it up if you need it. I used that on my truck and had pretty good luck with it. The other thing, which is very important, is to get yourself one of those little radiator / coolant purge kits (the one with the little orange cone that attaches to the radiator cap stuff) and use that to properly purge the cooling system. If you fail to do that (and using that cone is about the only method which actually works), then it's very easy to get air in the system which can vapor lock certain areas of the cooling system... this will cause all sorts of issues and make the motor run terrible, etc, etc. It can also cause the IAC valve to fail to operate properly, since one of its hoses is a high point in the cooling system. Those are a few things to try out.
Well what was it?
@@lawntko6755 There was a whole bunch of rusty crap in the small water tubes that lead to the Idle Air Valve completely blocking the flow. I spent 30 minutes poking and flushing it all out. Works great now! :)
I have I minor surge idle issue with my 22RE 1994 Toyota pick up. I'm going to try covering that big hole you pointed too and see if that helps me out. Thanks for the video
Good luck! Feel free to check back if you have any questions on anything.
So clean, Sir
Let me first start off by saying Excellent Video. Thank you for taking the time to share your new discoveries. In doing so you have saved me busted knuckles and not children rated vocabulary. Question did you change your fuel filter. I'll be honest I haven't looked threw all your videos.
Thanks, most appreciated. I have installed a new fuel filter as part of the entire engine / truck repair and upgrade stuff that I'm currently doing. I hacked sawed open the oil fuel filter to see how dirty it was, etc. It wasn't too bad. It was dirty but definitely flowing plenty of fuel through it. I've since installed a fuel pressure sensor between the fuel filter and fuel rail, so that I can monitor the fuel system PSI in real time from now on. I don't know if I mentioned it in this video, but the way I discovered that 3 of the 4 fuel injectors weren't functioning was during testing them individually with a little computer timer thing. Mainly I was testing the flow rates of the new Bosche injectors, but then I decided to test the ones which came out of the Toyota (because I was planning to rebuild them and sell them on eBay later) and that's when I discovered 3 weren't even working. At first I thought my test equipment had failed, but nope.
Thank you much for the link really appreciated
you're welcome!
Wow, super easy! Thanks, I'm gonna try this
No, the valve that controls that auxiliary injector is the one underneath the throttle body….
Not sure what you are referring to in the video, but yeah the cold start injector is electronically controlled and Toyota has some sort of timing switch over there on the intake runners next to the ECU coolant switch. I still am not sure how long it runs for haha.
DUUUUUDDDEEEE!!!! The tape over the hole in Throttle body thinnggy fixxed my problem!!!!!!!!!! My truck has never ran so good. I guess ill that tape there
Good deal man!
my guess is your new injectors came with new seals where they mount to the intake and was letting air into the system that was unaccounted for by the air flow meter causing a lean mixture when the cold start injector stopped helping richen the mixture when cold... if i had three injectors not working my 22re wouldnt even start... just my opinion...
There were no leaks present on either the old or new injectors. I'm still not 100% sure what was causing the odd idle, but I think it related to the IAC valve stuff as well as maybe one or two of the injectors dying or not working their best. I agree with you that having injectors not working - even one - should cause pretty significant idling issues which you could see and/or which would make the motor barely even run. The other issue which I found later was my wiring harness on the O2 sensors was all broken up, so that might have been a major contributing factor as well.
Are you an auto shop teacher? That was great!!
Thanks!
I have the same same problem with my 89 22RE when is cold is idling good but when I drive for about 10 minutes is idling up and down sometime wants to shut off by itself l did the by pass but the reaction is same nothing changes.sometimes spits black smoke on the muffler.l think my problem is the injectors.. thanks for the video 📸
Yeah, that's very similar to the issue I was having. All is good when it's cold, but once it warms up, the idle is up and down every second or so. I finally traced my issue down to two related problem I think. First, I had a broken wiring harness down to the O2 sensors - the wires were falling apart and I think it was not allowing the ECU to get an accurate signal from the upstream O2 sensor. The second issue (which I discovered later) is that some of my injectors had appeared to fail. When I removed the 4 OEM Toyota injectors to replace them with those blue Bosch injectors, I went back later and tested my OEM injectors and was surprised to find that 3 out of 4 of them weren't even working. I don't know if that is what was going on when they were on the truck originally or if maybe something caused them to fail while sitting around, but I think it was very suspicious. I would definitely recommend checking all your injectors to see if you can feel them firing. Also, the other thing you can do is pull the wiring harness off the injectors one by one. If the injectors are working, when you pull the harness off, you should feel the RPM's of the motor change and the idle will become rough (sort of like what happens when you test spark plugs using this same method). Once I had my truck running again, I used this method to confirm that my new injectors were all working. If you pull the harness off each injector one by one, you can definitely hear the motor idle change until you clip the injector harness back on. Hope this helps, good luck with the diagnosis!
Looks like you deleted the coolant bypass right by the cold start injector timer. Any issues after doing this? Do you know what size pipe plug you put in there? Great video thanks!
I'm not sure. That's how the motor was setup when I bought the truck (that plug was already in there), so I couldn't tell ya too much about the bypass stuff. Truck runs fine as it's setup now though.
I have a 1985 4runner and when its cold runs great, as soon as it warms up it stalls the acceleration. Even in neutral. I checked the TPS and MAF sensors. These are tested ok based on your explanation. What else could it be?
Hard to say... check the O2 sensor harness and make sure that's okay. Also check your fuel injectors and fuel pressure. It sounds like when it's coming out of the enrichment cycle, it's having issues. Try unplugging the temp sensor harness on the intake runners and see if it will idle a bit more. Also, try resetting the ECU by pulling the 15A EFI fuse. Finally, open the lid on the AFM (as outlined in my recent video on the channel) and confirm the door is swinging freely).
At a loss with this thing. It had sat for a long time. I drained the tank and dropped it to check for rust but it was clean. Ran poorly. I changed the injectors and fuel filter and now it runs 10 times worse.
Every ignition component is new. No check engine light . Any ideas? Blowing black smoke at idle currently and barley running
Hard to say. Have you done a compression check? You might also try resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery. But usually blowing black smoke isn't good.
Good job
Hey I was hoping you could help me with a cold start issue I've been having on my 1986 4Runner. Basically it takes a little while of cranking in the morning before it will start. When the engine is warm, it will start just fine. So far I've replaced the following: fuel filter, cold start time switch, water temp switch, removed and cleaned the fuel injectors with new seals. I've used my multimeter to test the AFM, circuit opening relay, specs for cold start time switch and water temp switch. If I short the fuel pump check connector it still takes some time cranking before it will start. The way that I have found it will start with the first key turn every time when it's cold is this: short the fuel pump check connector, connect a fuel injector tester to the battery and send 3 short pulses to the cold start injector. This leads me to believe that fuel pressure is ok, fuel pump is working, cold start injector works. I'm thinking there is either an issue with the wiring from the Cold Start Time switch to the ECU or wiring to the cold start injector. Also when using a test light, I get power to the cold start injector but it's not sending a ground pulse and thus the injector is not firing. From my reading it seems the ground pulse is controlled by the Cold Start Time Switch. Any thoughts? (Sorry for the novel. I was trying to explain the best I could)
yeah, when you crank the motor - if it's cold - the 5th fuel injector bolted up high on the intake plenum should inject some gas. Try removing it and see if it's working and/or if it sprays any gas when you start the motor when it's cold. If everything is working correctly, the truck should crank and start right up.
@@ray5961 That's my problem is that it's not spraying fuel. Using a test light I can see the harness is getting voltage but it's not getting a ground pulse which is what causes it to fire. The ground pulse is triggered by the Cold Start Time switch. The switch test out ok using my multimeter. Just curious if you have any ideas what else to check. I think the wire is a green one that goes from the Cold Start Time switch (STJ) to the ground side of the cold start injector
@@TheJadeWilk Make sure the grounds are connected properly. I believe they are brown wires that gang and terminator on that diagonal support under the intake manifold (all the brown injector wires terminate and bolt there). Also check the cold start time switch itself and/or maybe jump it as a test just to rule it out. Also, try triggering the injector itself with 12V while there is pressure in the fuel rail, just to confirm it does spray fuel.
@@ray5961 Hey seriously thanks for taking the time to reply. What I have done to get by, is I have a cheap fuel injector tester from Amazon. It connects to the battery and the cold start injector. In the morning I will short the fuel pump check connector, fire the injector 2 or 3 times and it starts with the first turn of the key. This lets me know that I have fuel/pressure and the fuel injector works. I think it's either an issue with the ground wire (which you said) or the cold start time switch/wiring. When I get some time next week I'll do some more digging. Let me know if you have any other ideas.
I've read that a work around would be to permanently ground one side of the cold start injector and wire an intermediate 12v switch inside the cab that I can fire when starting. I would like to fix the problem the correct way though
@@TheJadeWilk Yeah, I have one of those amazon fuel injector testers also.. they work great for testing. You can bypass that cold start timer stuff, but it's nice when it works. I think if you check the injector using the tester, that will get you on the right track. The other thing is that it helps to understand how the fuel pressure circuit works. There are two phases to it. First, when you crank the starter, that turns on the fuel pump momentarily - but only during cranking. Once the motor actually fires, then the door of the AFM is pulled open slight due to engine vacuum in the intake manifold (because the motor is now running). When that happens and that door opens, control of the fuel pump is handed off to a small switch which is inside the AFM (under that plastic cover). It's a little contact - I might have another video which shows it - and if that isn't making contact, the engine will die. However, if the relay that is involved before that door is pulled open isn't working, then you will not be able to start the motor because the initial fuel pressure will never come up during the cranking phase. That's controlled by the circuit opening relay stuff (I think I have a short video clip explaining that also). So if you jumper Fp and B+ and suddenly the car fires up where it usually won't, that could point to the relay not providing fuel pressure when the starter is cranked (prior to the motor firing and handing control off to that little switch that is located inside the AFM). Of course, the cold start injector is basically your choke, so it plays a roll also. But just be aware of that two-phase starting stuff to get your fuel pressure going initially.
How can I get rid of all or most of vaccum hoses I see lots of vaccum caps
There is no simple answer here. You would need to study what each hose does and then decide if you still need those systems in place, etc. You can re-route a lot of the VSV stuff to clean up the top of the valve cover. I've removed a lot of accessories off my motor, so I don't need all the original vacuum hoses. Some of the vacuum hoses relate to power steering, which I don't have any more, for example. I moved the AS and EGR hoses and their VSV controllers off the top of the motor for better access and this allowed me to get rid of that crazy vacuum tube manifold thing as well. I have another video which explains what a lot of the hoses do, but the short answer is you would need to understand which hose does what and go from there.
Trouble on cylinder number two and three when it warms up on the 22RE Toyota pickup
Is that a statement or a question? What do you mean by trouble?
My car does the opposite. Cold starts we’re unstable but once fully warmed up it worked just fine
Sometimes that can mean the coolant hoses which run to and from the IAC valve are blocked (or the passageways inside the IAC valve body); the quickest way to check this to see, is wait until the engine warms up a bit and then feel the upper and lower hoses with your fingers to see if both feel hot. If the lower hose (or either hose) are not warm to the touch, it may mean there is a blockage. This will cause the truck to have a poor idle initially, until the engine warms up. The other thing to check is the cold start injector, which is bolted to the upper intake plenum (it has a small fuel line running up to it).
Thanks for this Video How did you like the bosh fuel injectors?
Yeah, they seem to be okay. They have 4 holes and spray more of a spray whereas stock have two holes and produce more like two streams almost. However, the Bosch injectors didn't really fit perfectly; I had to modify the rubber ring parts with a razor as I remember in order to get them to fit and wasn't able to run the little nose plastic thing. Personally, if I had it to do over again, I would either buy factory ones or find some sort of high performance ones designed for Toyota or something. Maybe start at LC Engineering and see what they have.
@@ray5961 Thank You so much Ray. That was very informative. Keep up the good work.
Very helpful video thank you do you mean sharing the part# or where did you buy the injectors I usually buy my parts at AutoZone but they don't have the bosch ones thanks again
I just pinned the comment with my reply providing the link. Check the top comment and you'll find it
Great video thanks for sharing! My IACV was bad but it’s great info!! Beautiful motor. Been considering putting in a header and I was wondering what you have and if you noticed a difference? How much bigger is the pipe? Did you change the CAT to something bigger?
I'm running an LCE pro street cylinder head (larger valves, ported, etc.) and also their Pro EFI cam (higher lift). The LCE header is very nice, but slightly louder than the stock cast iron head; I'm running a 2.25" stainless exhaust with twin vibrant resonators. I have a high flow CAT, but right now I'm running it with a straight test pipe in. You can definitely feel a little bit of extra power. It's about 135-140 HP vs. the stock 115 HP. I'm running a W58 toyota super gearbox and a 4.10 rear end (8") with 28" wheels... it drives nice and has nice power through the gears. You can feel the extra power and the motor seems to breath better but don't expect to be winning any races :)
@@ray5961 Got a stock 22RE on my 91 pickup 4WD and I'm itching for a little more get up and go. I read somewhere that the stock manifold is fine however the pipe is too thin. They recommended to not have a header unless you're doing a whole motor build which makes sense.
@@grayshadowhandpan4277 running a larger exhaust would help. I did a 2.25" stainless system on mine. Stock exhaust manifold should flow plenty for a stock motor
@@ray5961 Is your exhaust 2.25" from the manifold back? Or from the Cat back?
@@grayshadowhandpan4277 It's 2.25" the whole way back from the header collector. The cat is a high flow 2.25" and so are the resonators - all the tubing is 2.25" with mandrel bends.
1:00 do i reattach the hose and try it ?
Yes... what I mean is tape over that hole to shut down the entire IAC system - make sure the tape is folded over so it can't get sucked into the motor. Put the elbow back on, warm the motor up and test drive it (it won't be happy when cold)... once it's warmed up though, the tape will rule out the IAC being a factor in operation at full temp.
I’m having the same issue and if it was only working on 1 injector could that cause the motor to knock or tick I’m new to the 22re and I’m trying to learn and diagnose the problem I bought a new thermo switch and coolant switch next I’m buying new injectors and iv changed spark plugs and wires
hard to say. One injector and it would be having issues running I think. Usually knocking is incorrect timing or low quality fuel. Have you checked the engine base timing with the pins jumped in the diagnostic box? Also, you might want to check that your knock sensor on the side of the block is working okay.
cold starter injector time switch....left of the temperature sensor
Nice tip i go to try that
Just the tip
i only had one injector out and it ran terrible. i really dont know how your truck even moved on one.
Yeah I'm not sure. Maybe the injectors failed from sitting after I took them out or something. I may not know what I'm talking about haha
Hey great video I have a 93 with the same problem, only after it warms up it not only has a rough idle but it runs like crap too, it seems to miss through acceleration. Any ideas?
Hard to say, but I'd check to make sure the spark plugs are clean and the valves are adjusted property - that can often be the issues with mis-firing during acceleration. Check the IAC coolant lines also, to make sure both are warm and flowing coolant. You can also use duct tape and block off that inlet hole for the IAC valve that I show in the video and see if the truck runs fine once it's up to temp; if it does, then the IAC valve is stuck and not closing most likely.
Great video....appreciate them. Everything was running fine on my 91 22re until I decided to clean the gunk out of my throttle body without taking it off and now my engine surges when I apply the brake. I'm woundering if I should try to clean the iav or just replace it. What are your thoughts?
Michael Eagle try blocking off the brake booster line and see if the problem goes away. That's usually the issue if it's when you hit the brakes
Same thing happened to me. I disabled mine and truck runs fine now
On my Truck my cold start injector only works when you start the engine. The sensor is that activates the injector is wire up to the starter circuit as soon you let your key out of the start position the injector shut off.
Never heard of that. Normally that injector is controlled by a timer which monitors coolant temp. What sort of truck do you have?
@@ray5961 I have an 85 22re pick up. Older versions are slightly different. I opened my ECM and followed the FSM diagram. There is a pin on the ECM board mark as STA I put a Multimeter on it and only have power when the key is on starter position. That STA wire goes is also connected to the cold star injector and the time sensor. When the coolant is cold the time sensor gives ground to the cold start injector. I thought that it was on all the time until it gets hot but no. Make sure your truck has the right injectors. Old trucks injectors have different resistances and don't work well with newer ECMs and the other way around.
@@jonathangonzalez327 ok thanks for the info. Yeah, I would guess your have a carb right? As opposed to fuel injection, given that it's a 1985. I'm running some Bosch fuel injectors, which seem to be working okay. Right now I have some issues with low spark Kv voltage on one of my plugs, so I'm trying to figure that all out. I think I have a valve seal that has let go on me or something. Anyway, I'm putting a new top end on the motor soon, so hopefully she'll be running better shortly here. As far as the injectors, I've definitely gone through 1 by 1 and unplugged each one to make sure they are working haha :-)
@@ray5961 mine is EFI. Some 85s pick up came with factory EFI not all of them.
Jonathan Gonzalez Yeah Toyota did some crazy stuff back then :-)
I had similar issues and tried all quick fixes without removing the whole intake and cleaned . Anyway I tighten the bolts that mount the cold start injector and turned one of the heads off the bolt so the bolt is stuck flush in the chamber side at the gasket. Does anyone know what size those two bolts are (not the banjo bolts but the mounting bolts)?
if I remember correctly, the cold start injector bolts are M6x1.00 and then whatever length you need (25mm, etc, etc.)
@@ray5961
I was able to back the bolts out and replaced them with the M6 from my local auto part store. I could use some additional advice regarding the crush washers and understanding of one specific one that has a tab, might be called a lock tab. Like I said I replaced the bolts used the same crush washers on the tube From the rail to the cold start injector but when I energize the system I get a leak/spray from the banjo bolt mounting the injector. Before the bolt extraction issue I snipped the tabs to the crush washer because it wasn’t lining up and assumed the tab was insignificant. I’m wondering now if the tabbed washer aids in the alignment of the banjo bolt to the cold start injector. I have a pic of the washer …trying to figure out how to send it
@@gatzbravo My email address is on the 'about' page of the channel if you'd like to forward it over. The copper sealing wash with the tab is there to help keep the washer in place during assembly so it doesn't fall.
How did you get silver metal parts so clean and shiny?
I wash them in the kitchen sink using Bar Keepers friend (which has a little acid in it). Just be careful not to use it on plated bolts (for anything with cadmium plating, I use Bon Ami instead). And just sit there with a tooth brush and soap and water and also I use a bamboo chopstick to scale the difficult areas. It's just many hours of cleaning basically, but the soaking over night and scrubbing / soaking with a little Bar Keepers friend helps a lot. The acid in the mix brightens up the aluminum really well.
When I cover the big whole my engine shuts off or won’t crank what am I doing wrong
The large hole at 7 o'clock there is the air pathway for the IAC valve system. Blocking it off will make starting the car more difficult and until the motor is up to temp, it won't wanna idle as well (especially if you have other issues lurking around). Also, if the IAC is allowing air through (in other words it's not closing properly to begin with), it's possible that your main idle screw is out of adjustment. Check the hoses going to the IAC valve body and make sure there is warm coolant circulating in and out (upper and lower hoses). When the motor is hot, you can also try blowing air into that hole and see if you hear it rushing into the intake plenum. But normally, you can block that hole off is the motor is warm and it should have no impact either way. If the motor is warm and you block it off - and things start not working right - then it probably means air is getting through there when it shouldn't and if that's the case, most likely some compensation has been made via your idle screw to offset the leak.
@@ray5961 wow three year old video and a response within an hour thanks man I’m calling it for the night but I’ll let you know if that fixes it
@@Stepdad606 let me know how it goes over there and/or if you have any other questions. Always happy to help out a fellow Toyota owner! And yea, I monitor the comments on the channel pretty closely.
If the IAC is clogged or stuck would it affect coolant flow or overheating?
22raddad It depends if you are referring to the part of the IAC which allows air flow into the motor or if you mean the little coolant hose that circulates coolant around the valve that blocks off air. If the coolant line is clogged up, it won't cause the motor to overheat - it will only cause the IAC valve to remain open and allow too much air into the motor. On the other hand, if the IAC valve itself ends up stuck in the closed position, you might have trouble with the motor idling when very cold in the morning. But yeah, if it's blocks it's not going to affect overall coolant flow to the radiator for coolant while driving - that passage is just a side show, only designed to heat up the bottom of the IAC valve assembly.
Am I dumb for asking this? When you tape the hole for iacv do you leave the boot off or put it back on with the tape covering it?
the tape only blocks air going into the little hole inside... wrap the lip out and over the edge and put the intake boot and AFM back
@@ray5961 awesome think you.
I’ve got a 91 and as soon as it starts. The idle jumps up and down. What do you think ? This thing is driving me crazy.
does it level out when it warms up? When I first bought my truck, it did this annoying thing where the idle would cycle once a second roughly, up and down up and down. I believe it was because the harness to the O2 sensors was frayed. You can also block off the IAC valve passage way inside the throttle body to help rule out coolant passage blockage, but that only works after the truck warms up
Not sure I don’t want to run it that long. When I say the idle goes up and down. I’m taking like 800 rpm to 4000 or 5000 rpm
@@leevoght3741 Yikes.. so you mean like it's idling normal at 800 RPM's and then it will suddenly just randomly rev up to 4000 or 5000 RPM's? That must be wild lol. Not sure what would cause that. Start by resetting the ECU by pulling the 15A EFI fuse for 5 or 10 minutes. I'd also check the Throttle Position switch to make sure it's not hosed. The other thing would be to ensure that all your injectors are okay and that one of them isn't leaking. I'd also block off the IAC valve passage way just to make sure it's not sticking open and allowing a bunch of air in. But yeah, that's a strange one.
I checked all of that
@@leevoght3741 Do you have any USB devices attached to the car? I noticed on my truck, when I'm streaming bluetooth music, it causes my tach to bounce around. Maybe something inside the car is causing the computer to wig out a bit. The other thing is to check the EGR valve and the AS (air suction) system. Have you tried capping both of those off? Do you know how to check to see if the EGR valve is good? Also, on my truck I had a blown vacuum modulator, which was allowing air into the intake; that's something else to check. Finally, I would put a vacuum gauge on the manifold and see if vacuum is dropping towards zero when the engine RPM's rise, just to determine if the increase is happening in conjunction with some air being let into the motor outside of the plate in the throttle body. You might also open the top of the AFM and see if the door is flapping open when the engine RPM's go up as well (you have to cut the silicone seal around that black top and pop it up very carefully).
Where did you buy your fuel injectors
Eduardo Sandoval - five O motorsports - here is the link where I bought them. I had to modify the rubber gasket parts a bit to make it fit. I had to use a razor to cut down part of the little rubber O-ring thing... not sure if that's par for the course or what, but I was able to get them to bolt up nice and tight in the end. It did take a little work though. They are nice injectors for sure... the four I received all worked and flowed within .5 cc over each other over a 60 second pulse test. Here is the link: www.fiveomotorsport.com/bosch-0280155997-toyota-4runner-pickup-upgrade/
Are you having any issues with the vacuum lines off like you have them or dose that not have an effect on the engine?
Michael Roben All those are going to be re-connected. I'm going to do a video soon explaining what all those do and how to understand the individual systems and how to modify some areas using those hoses, etc.
@@ray5961 yes please! Also, I noticed my extra fuel injector as you called it, actually looks like a big plastic bolt/screw, and allows it to be adjusted now I don't know how far in or out I should turn that thing but it's never been set correctly. do you have any experience with these if you know what I'm talking about and would it cause some of my idling issues if not set correctly?
Thank you!
Always interested fixing diagnosing those beautiful 22 RE engines driven mine for 22 years one big lesson I learned Make sure the cooling system works properly if it gets volcano hot it will blow a head gasket lesson learned the hard way still love my 88 pick up single cab automatic I’am 73 years old now and my pick up always ready when I am
Why wouldn’t it throw a light ?
What specifically are you referring to with regard to the light?
Is it harmful to keep tape covering the hole
It's not a great idea, because the continual vacuum will try to pull the tape in. I would just use it as a diagnostic tool mainly.
@@ray5961 thanks but other then the tape being sucked in there wouldn't be any negative affects
@@dillmontgomery8432 No, it should be fine otherwise. I have run my truck for a while with tape over it (I just curled the edge of the tape back so it wouldn't get sucked in). However, the contact sucking action did want to suck the tape over the hole itself into the motor, so you do have to be aware of that (in other words, if the tape dries out and cracks and ends up getting sucked in, it's going through your cylinder). But outside of that, just blocking that hole off shouldn't harm anything; that's what happens when the IAC valve warms up anyway (it closes that hole). With the hole blocked, the car might start up a tiny bit rich, but that shouldn't hurt much.
My 1990 Toyota pick up when it warms up it will not idle at all it just dies
Idoling should be around 700-800 rpm?!
AppleGuy670 Yeah, whatever the manual shows, but sometimes people adjust it up or down a 100 or so RPM's based on preference. My truck is torn apart right now and has never idled correctly so I'm not sure what normal is :-)
Ray Nada lol hope you post your results I like finding out that engine the cold start injector and switches are common and the icv good luck bud the head if not machined right was my issue years ago in 1999
Awesome video man!!
Miguel Sustaita thanks!
blocking off the IAC does not make sense to me to spell out idle problems. The IAC is FOR IDLE air control... 3 of 4 injectors were not working, he said ? A 4 cylinder engine will hardly move on 1 live cylinder only/ Be clear on what you say...
Doug H. in VA You might want to research the cold start injector system a little more. The idle air control valve is completely disabled once the motor warms up; it's only there to provide additional air when the motor is cold and when the cold start injector is adding more gas. Not sure when my injectors started to fail, but again when the cold start system is working, the 5th injector would be providing extra gas. Blocking off the IAC will sever to tell you if it's failing to close when the motor is warm (as it should do when everything is working correctly) - if it's not costing, this can dramatically affect how the car idles, if it's stuck open. But by manually blocking it off with duct tape, then once the motor is warmed up, you can isolate whether or not there is an issue with those small coolant lines. You might want to also check out my other video on the subject for further info; in that video I more clearly explain how the system functions. This video was more of a follow up to that other one.
What injectors did you get? Link please?
Dusty Does It I purchased them here www.fiveomotorsport.com/bosch-0280155997-toyota-4runner-pickup-upgrade/
Where are all the rubber hoses that are on my 22RE. Looks like you're missing quite a lot of stuff???????????? So many hose delete caps???????????
I relocated a lot of stuff to the side. Also, I don't have A/C or P/S, so I don't have a lot of those systems attached. I'm just running the main systems, but sometimes I disable them for tuning/testing also. I also run the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose directly to the regulator on the fuel rail, since the VSV switching doesn't really make a lot of difference either way.
I got a question for a misfire
fire away...
I have talked to you before about cooling issues, but anyway, I kind of have the same problem, but not really my 4runner was misfireing when warm also a rough idle I replaced plugs wires cap and rotor was fine for acouple days now the rough idle misfire is back it dose smoothen out sometimes not to sure I was kind of think fuel or timing
@@nickwinter2145 I'd start by pulling the plugs and reading them to see how they look. That can tell you a lot. Check to see if there is oil on the threads also. In my experience with my 22RE, oil impingement into the cylinders can often cause the symptoms you are describing. Sometimes what happens is the PCV system is sucking oil into the intake and it tends to pool; then when going up or down hill, it will roll into the #1 or #4 runner and foul the spark plugs out and/or combine to screw up the air/fuel mixture. So that's something to check. If you see my video on installing the oil catch can, that might be sometime to try out. That's how I discovered that a lot of my oil consumption issue was actually related to the PCV breather, as opposed to a failure in the oil control rings. Once I started trapping the oil in the catch can, my spark plugs stopped showing an oily build up on the threads and started staying cleaner longer. This translates to less misfiring because there is no fouling or anything. So definitely keep a close eye on your plugs and maybe consider installing a catch can. I'd try pulling the plugs and cleaning them with a wire brush (stainless steel) and some gasoline. You can bring them back to pretty much brand new condition. Then reinstall them and see if your motor is good for a few days ago (smooth, no miss fire). if so, then you know it's probably degradation of the spark plugs which is the issue and you can try to find out what is causing that, since normally the plugs should remain clean for at least a few thousand miles or more. Also, which heat range plugs are you running and what brand? Denso W16EXR-U is the best plug in my experience for the 22RE. Nothing else really works as well.
1# cylinder dose burn oil my plugs where very bad and I will pull plugs tonight I use ngk
@@nickwinter2145 Yeah, oil getting into the cylinder will cause the misfire. See if you can trace the source of the oil. The catch can I just installed in my truck helps a lot. I'm still trying to figure out why oil is being sucked up through the PCV. I was just about to make a video on it to update where things stand. NGK is okay. I personally prefer the Denso. Have you run a compression check across your cylinders? You could have a head gasket issue. There is an oil passage which is under pressure near cylinder #1, so that could be something to be concerned about. If you watch my videos showing scrapping the block, you can see where the oil passages are located. There is a front passage that is under pressure (it supplies oil up one of the head bolts and to the valve train stuff) and there is a larger drain passage (not under pressure) near the back of the block. Also, have you checked to make sure all your head bolts are torqued down okay? I run 66 ft lbs here, as the 58 ft lbs the manual shows is a bit low in my opinion.