hey, I had the same t16000M. but when I changed it to left-handed, I didn't need to take out all three of the screws on the base, you can just take out the one big one and then turn it, that's what it says it the manual.
This is an older video, but thank you! I had the orange T16000m and while the orange like didn't bother me too much, the twist function is going and caused my volatile cargo to go nuclear in the latest SC patch, so I am forced to use my old T16000m which has a MUCH brighter green LED which is headache inducing. Your tutorial has allowed me to use it without discomfort. Thank you!
the updated version of orange T16000M had its light dimmed with intensity according to how far you pushed XY axis. However the twist axis has a flawed design where the 2 plastid pieces would add too much weight to the twist sensor when you are resting your hand on the handle. There is a fix/prevention after opening the handle and chip off 1~2mm of the plastid pieces.
@@SPJ-88 The current 2023 version of the T16000M'd LED is only on/off only and there is no variation in intensity. removing the LED from circuit is the fix for its annoying existence.
Great video. I also use thrustmaster duel joysticks and work fine. In Star citizen. I use both sticks in Target and the software recognizes the left stick and right stick by the switch settings. Awesome. Have been using daily and had no failures yet for 8 months.
Nice review! That damn orange light is really a pain in the ass. When changing from right to left hand, you do not need to remove the base - just unscrew the top screw a little bit and you can rotate the entire base rest.
As an alternate to just snipping the wire, you can get a cheap tiny switch that you can place on that circuit to close and open it. A less permanent solution if you ever change your mind about the light.
Thanks for the light disabling tip. Too bad you didn't include some b role footage or screenshot of the necessary wires up close and highlighted to ensure viewers see the exact items being referenced. As is, it is a little difficult to be 100% sure.
Great video tutorial👍 I have the thrustmaster hotas one. Not bad I like the fact I can connect the throttle to the joystick if needed. But I'm now thinking of this system. There is a version that comes with throttle and foot peddles.
great review. and thanks for the light fix. ordered the HOTAS version of this today and didnt know about the annoying light thing. So dumb that it turns on and off like that.. i will be doing the snip as well. Thanks again and happy flying commander!
I have the older green one, but yeah that led light is the worst thing about this joystick, which over that whole I'm very happy with. They should've made it possible to turn it off in the joystick driver.
Oh alternatively you could take a piece of black linen and create a towel with it around the base where the lights are up to the base of the hilt of the joystick simple tie tie up top and a little contact glue or Elmer's at the base and your good.
Just ordered one on sale for $40. Haven’t had a flight stick since 2004. Looking forward playing some combat flying games. Miss CFS 2 and Crimson Skies from back in the day.
@unr1 Amazon. It said back ordered but it shipped today. I didn't care that it was back ordered and it ended up shipping in 2 days anyway. Supposed to arrive tomorrow!
I just picked one up for Star Citizen and my dual controller set up. I'm not technically savvy, and appreciate you trying to help. I desperately hate how peripherals are forcing a bunch of dumb lights on us and really want to make sure to do this right. I just don't want to start cutting wires without being very sure I'm not destroying my nice new stick. Your video you say that the two wires next to the switch (red and black near as I can tell) are the bad ones, and you say you you're going to clip the two next to the switch... but I've rewatched it several times and it looks like you only cut the black one, the red one looks very attached. It's hard to tell cause it's all small circuitry, and I'm kind of a moron with this stuff, but please clarify before I start cutting willy nilly. Thanks for your time!
I don't think I would be brave enough to clip any wires even though you could just solder them back together. Do you think it would be possible to find the LEDs on the board and put a little piece of tape over them so that the can't shine into the orange clear plastic?
I had the Extreme 3D Pro, which was well… "nice" but i totally could not stand the glitch in the middle, especially the rudder function. I hade to set a HUGE deadzone in DCS. Now I have got the HOTAS T.16000 setup. I have not got the package from the postoffice yet, since Im not sure this is the right thing either… Oh... Which else hotas would you recommend? Heard crap about X52 (Pro included). What would you do? =P
LOL! Orange light? Dude just get a bottle of white out and with the little brush paint that clear plastic so the orange light doesn't show through then you can always take a permanent monitor over top of that and paint the white out black. .... Cool thing about that is you can always get the white-out off later if you want.
I use duel 'Thrustmaster T16000Ms joysticks but I've gone through at least six(>), due to twist motion failure (Z-axis) and I'm unable to repair this known defect. The last two (pair) I got were T16000M FCS and seems to be lasting fairly well (but one is intermittent). I've just noticed, advertised a "Guillemot Thrustmaster T16000M FCS" but have been unable to get details about what a "Guillemot" is (other then a bird)? A "Guillemot" T16KM FCS may be reconditioned Thrustmaster T16000M FCS joysticks, with the defect fixed (permanently) but that's only a guess? Do you have any information if Thrustmaster is planning to replace the T16KM FCS joysticks (without the defect) and/or if the Guillemot is a reconditioned T16KM FCS joystick (with defect fixed)? Thank-you for the time. ;-)
Great comparison and review. Quick question, I plan to buy the T.16000M. Does the joystick squeak a lot? the Thrustmaster X squeaks non stop and I had to return two of them because it was terrible.
@@Centuriom buy a virpil or kbsim. they are more expensive but atleast they are quality that doesnt break after a few months. i had 3x 16000 an all had the same problem. 1 of them even after only 2 months.
So, Can I ask? How many of the FCS sticks have you been through so far? I'm on 3 and that's not a complement to them... They always fail within a few months on the Z Rotation... Please get back to me to confirm if you're having the same problems.
This stick (T.16000M) is a piece of crap. Its design is quite good and the way it works too, at least while it works. The problem is it works for a very short period, ranging between 6 months and a year. I'm considering my typical use in DCS World and FSX. I've had 7 units and they all developed some kind of malfunction. Two of them failed in buttons 1 and/or 2. Two of them failed in the slider. Three of them failed in the Z Rotation sensor, and this is the most annoying fault, because it makes your plane yaw franticly without control, with obvious consequences. So, it becomes clear that the weakest parts of the equipment are the sensors. I had 2 of them replaced within the warranty period, but I didn't even bothered to replace the others, as they were bought online, and I would have to ship them. So, my advice is; don't buy this crap of joystick. I kept buying because I really like its ergonomic and the way it works, but I’m moving on to something different. P.S.: Its flashy design, with all the flashing lights and colours is a bit queer and makes it more expensive than necessary.
To disable the LEDs simply snip the red wire on the center board which is right next to the Left/Right switch.
hey, I had the same t16000M. but when I changed it to left-handed, I didn't need to take out all three of the screws on the base, you can just take out the one big one and then turn it, that's what it says it the manual.
Great point about illuminating the buttons. The amber light at the center is pointless! It would be great if the buttons had a back light!
This is an older video, but thank you! I had the orange T16000m and while the orange like didn't bother me too much, the twist function is going and caused my volatile cargo to go nuclear in the latest SC patch, so I am forced to use my old T16000m which has a MUCH brighter green LED which is headache inducing. Your tutorial has allowed me to use it without discomfort. Thank you!
the updated version of orange T16000M had its light dimmed with intensity according to how far you pushed XY axis. However the twist axis has a flawed design where the 2 plastid pieces would add too much weight to the twist sensor when you are resting your hand on the handle. There is a fix/prevention after opening the handle and chip off 1~2mm of the plastid pieces.
@@SPJ-88 The current 2023 version of the T16000M'd LED is only on/off only and there is no variation in intensity. removing the LED from circuit is the fix for its annoying existence.
Same here as a lefty with the pain in the a$$ led amber light! Thank you for this!
Great video. I also use thrustmaster duel joysticks and work fine. In Star citizen. I use both sticks in Target and the software recognizes the left stick and right stick by the switch settings. Awesome. Have been using daily and had no failures yet for 8 months.
thanks for the guide, finally disabled this stupid backlight. it is particularly annoying on an older stick that's hardly ever centered anymore.
Nice review! That damn orange light is really a pain in the ass. When changing from right to left hand, you do not need to remove the base - just unscrew the top screw a little bit and you can rotate the entire base rest.
FYI all just use non-stick pads for phones to keep this in place. works great!
Thanks for making this great comparison. Just what I needed.
As an alternate to just snipping the wire, you can get a cheap tiny switch that you can place on that circuit to close and open it. A less permanent solution if you ever change your mind about the light.
That's only if you want to keep the LED.
Nobody wants the pointless annoying, distracting LED.
Thanks for the light disabling tip. Too bad you didn't include some b role footage or screenshot of the necessary wires up close and highlighted to ensure viewers see the exact items being referenced. As is, it is a little difficult to be 100% sure.
To disable the LEDs simply snip the red wire on the center board which is right next to the Left/Right switch.
@@Seal550 Thank you :)
Great video tutorial👍 I have the thrustmaster hotas one. Not bad I like the fact I can connect the throttle to the joystick if needed. But I'm now thinking of this system. There is a version that comes with throttle and foot peddles.
great review. and thanks for the light fix. ordered the HOTAS version of this today and didnt know about the annoying light thing. So dumb that it turns on and off like that.. i will be doing the snip as well. Thanks again and happy flying commander!
I have the older green one, but yeah that led light is the worst thing about this joystick, which over that whole I'm very happy with.
They should've made it possible to turn it off in the joystick driver.
Oh alternatively you could take a piece of black linen and create a towel with it around the base where the lights are up to the base of the hilt of the joystick simple tie tie up top and a little contact glue or Elmer's at the base and your good.
Just ordered one on sale for $40. Haven’t had a flight stick since 2004. Looking forward playing some combat flying games. Miss CFS 2 and Crimson Skies from back in the day.
@unr1 Amazon. It said back ordered but it shipped today. I didn't care that it was back ordered and it ended up shipping in 2 days anyway. Supposed to arrive tomorrow!
Exactly the review I was looking for! Thanks mate!
I just picked one up for Star Citizen and my dual controller set up. I'm not technically savvy, and appreciate you trying to help. I desperately hate how peripherals are forcing a bunch of dumb lights on us and really want to make sure to do this right. I just don't want to start cutting wires without being very sure I'm not destroying my nice new stick. Your video you say that the two wires next to the switch (red and black near as I can tell) are the bad ones, and you say you you're going to clip the two next to the switch... but I've rewatched it several times and it looks like you only cut the black one, the red one looks very attached. It's hard to tell cause it's all small circuitry, and I'm kind of a moron with this stuff, but please clarify before I start cutting willy nilly. Thanks for your time!
worked well, thanks! No More Light at Night
im about to buy the stick. as if i need to snip the led. nice informative video btw
As an alternate to cutting the wire, just cut a piece of black clothes and make a sleeve that will also double as a dust protector
Thank you for this, it's very nice listening to you and this helped a lot
Is there a way of replacing the orange translucent plastic above the led's with a different color 3d printed option?
Just ordered two of these for SC! Only issue i’ll have is finding two USB ports to put these bad boys in lol
Great video, was wonder how the left or right stick stuff worked!
I don't think I would be brave enough to clip any wires even though you could just solder them back together. Do you think it would be possible to find the LEDs on the board and put a little piece of tape over them so that the can't shine into the orange clear plastic?
Good review. Thank you!
I had the Extreme 3D Pro, which was well… "nice" but i totally could not stand the glitch in the middle, especially the rudder function. I hade to set a HUGE deadzone in DCS.
Now I have got the HOTAS T.16000 setup. I have not got the package from the postoffice yet, since Im not sure this is the right thing either… Oh...
Which else hotas would you recommend? Heard crap about X52 (Pro included).
What would you do? =P
At 10:03 the light did come on. So what you did was cut an activator switch. The lights still work.
I guess he edited the video and spliced that bit to the end of the video before he did the mods.
I was wondering about that too and thought that the exposed wire might have made contact momentarily.
LOL! Orange light?
Dude just get a bottle of white out and with the little brush paint that clear plastic so the orange light doesn't show through then you can always take a permanent monitor over top of that and paint the white out black.
.... Cool thing about that is you can always get the white-out off later if you want.
that led was annoying as fuc know I have peace thank you very much sir
I stopped using Target and I use Joystick Gremlin instead. It gives many more options.
I use duel 'Thrustmaster T16000Ms joysticks but I've gone through at least six(>), due to twist motion failure (Z-axis) and I'm unable to repair this known defect.
The last two (pair) I got were T16000M FCS and seems to be lasting fairly well (but one is intermittent).
I've just noticed, advertised a "Guillemot Thrustmaster T16000M FCS" but have been unable to get details about what a "Guillemot" is (other then a bird)?
A "Guillemot" T16KM FCS may be reconditioned Thrustmaster T16000M FCS joysticks, with the defect fixed (permanently) but that's only a guess?
Do you have any information if Thrustmaster is planning to replace the T16KM FCS joysticks (without the defect) and/or if the Guillemot is a reconditioned T16KM FCS joystick (with defect fixed)?
Thank-you for the time. ;-)
Great comparison and review. Quick question, I plan to buy the T.16000M. Does the joystick squeak a lot? the Thrustmaster X squeaks non stop and I had to return two of them because it was terrible.
I haven't noticed any squeaking so far. Once SC 3.0 comes out I'll be putting a ton of stick time on it and will try to remember to report back.
LOL
Your name has GOT to be a Privateer reference.
Can't you just turn off the light in the driver/launcher for the stick?
no. but the light is the least problem. this joystick will break after a few months. just google thrustmaster 16000m z axis.
@@MrSimon1909 i have the 3d extreme pro and z axis broke too and thinking to buy the 16000... so now i dont know to do...
@@Centuriom buy a virpil or kbsim. they are more expensive but atleast they are quality that doesnt break after a few months. i had 3x 16000 an all had the same problem. 1 of them even after only 2 months.
Hola cuál de estos es compatible para Xbox series X
can someone explain why is the light annoying?
So, Can I ask? How many of the FCS sticks have you been through so far? I'm on 3 and that's not a complement to them... They always fail within a few months on the Z Rotation... Please get back to me to confirm if you're having the same problems.
Yes i have the extreme pro 3d and z axis broken ,, people say in the 16000m the same in few months of use broken too... so what to buy..
Im left handed too, How do you fly with 3dpro , that joystick the buttons are in the left side.........
Why not just turn off the LED in the T.A.R.G.E.T. software?
You tell bro, marketing brainfart @orange light...
i guess by now you figured out the left switch is for the trustmaster software, since the windows software sucks, 2 years later
Impµlse Slider - Thrustmaster T16000m HOTAS Throttle Upgrade install - th-cam.com/video/uXqHUsm0cho/w-d-xo.html
i just orderd Thrustmaster T16000M FCS dual sticks
hi would two m16000m fcs work
I don't see any reason why not. Just modify one for your left hand and you're good to go. Your system will recognize them as two unique joysticks.
The twist rudders become faulty in a few weeks. Bad quality manufacturing.
...or just turn them of in the the software
Can you program joystick to wasd?
Name of game at the end?
Star Citizen
More of a sidegrade than upgrade .
The dead zone on the Logitech your talking about is not true. I play E.D and that play in the stick will move the ship! Just saying!
...you have to set the deadzone doofus
Then thrustmaster more accuracy
Sorry mate saw the light co e on at 10:03
That's because when I edited together the video, I ended up putting some of the commentary from before I disabled the light at the end.
This stick (T.16000M) is a piece of crap.
Its design is quite good and the way it works too, at least while it works.
The problem is it works for a very short period, ranging between 6 months and a year. I'm considering my typical use in DCS World and FSX.
I've had 7 units and they all developed some kind of malfunction.
Two of them failed in buttons 1 and/or 2.
Two of them failed in the slider.
Three of them failed in the Z Rotation sensor, and this is the most annoying fault, because it makes your plane yaw franticly without control, with obvious consequences.
So, it becomes clear that the weakest parts of the equipment are the sensors.
I had 2 of them replaced within the warranty period, but I didn't even bothered to replace the others, as they were bought online, and I would have to ship them.
So, my advice is; don't buy this crap of joystick.
I kept buying because I really like its ergonomic and the way it works, but I’m moving on to something different.
P.S.: Its flashy design, with all the flashing lights and colours is a bit queer and makes it more expensive than necessary.
I have the extreme pro 3d and z axis broke too,, is necesary totally for me the z axis,, so which joystick to buy???