My throttle body rubs on one side and sticks. It's a bbk throttlebody/plenum for a 4.6 2v. I loosened the screws for the plate and kept opening it until it fit in the right spot, then put the screws back in. So if you're having that grinding issue, there you go
Hi, excelente channel, sorry Ford My English. I have the same problem whit skunk2 trottle body, anda see the skunk don't have spring in TPS side. I put oem spring and fix the problem, i hope they info is useful.
I usually set it until it sticks and adjust the stop screw just a hair to remove the sticking, and double check it while the engine is running, then I'll calibrate the tps 🙂
@@AelAeo I tried to explain it how u explained it (you explained it better hahaha) the billet ones always get a bad rap only cuz the full throttle stop is adjustable so if u are over 4.5v (after setting the idle stop and getting 0.5v) u throw a CEL Then the billet gets blamed lol It simply has an “extra” variable to adjust that’s all
Great info I subscribed! I wonder if this is the cause to my long time issue of my car not idling down. I didn't even think that adjusting the throttle would lead to calibrating the tps, but makes total sense. I wonder if incorrect adjustment could make it seem the IACV is acting up? My B18b1 swap idles high for a long time until I drive it for awhile. The weird part I can't explain is I can manipulate the correction in idle by quickly turning key off and back on before the motor cuts off. This works every time but I hope I don't wear my ignition or electrical system. Any thoughts why the quick on off corrects idle? I'm hoping it will fix this following your video. Thanks for the knowledge! 👍
It is possible I mean it’s a possible cause because let’s say the ecu factory or rechipped the target idle is “900rpm” but mechanically the throttle and tps is closed different or on idle state it’s different the ecu will have a hard time trying to “force” it to idle to its target And vice versa so it’s worth checking
Should you see any light around the the throttle body plate in closed position? I've been having idle issues I have thought about boring out the idle screw adjustment or opening the throttle plate with the stop screw. I built a b20v with a victor x manifold and skunk2 70mm throttle body. I think the IACV is having trouble providing enough air.
@SRDmotorsports when closed i can barely see a little light sorund the edge of the throttle plate, I backed the throttle stop all the way until it started sticking, and then I turned it until it barely touched the plate and no more sticking
@SRDmotorsports also, I do not have any vacuum leaks, but it has something to do with the iacv not being able to keep up, even with iacv duty increased on S300 hondata, I do have a new iacv coming just to give it a shot
Oh good idea can see if I can do that or squeeze it in or even at the shop page… Main challenge here is making it “ More “visual” than just explaining lol
@@SRDmotorsports a lot of people like me learn by seeing and hands on experience lol I learned from the book and going to school but understood it once I got my hands on it
Hey man I love your videos I've been subscribed for a while now. Always great content and great information, keep em coming! But I do have a question I can't figure this out. My 74mm skunk2 TB only sticks with engine running. Engine on if I slowly open the throttle plate by rotating the rotor where cable meets it, you can feel where it gets slightly stuck. Also at a couple more point further open. I did this with cable disconnected to isolate the tb. But with the engine off it's as smooth as can be all the way through. It's driving me crazy I even removed throttle cable and made sire the cable was not sticking anywhere. I would greatly appreciate any input!
Hmm interesting and very odd situation there man…. Only thing I can think of is probably throttle shaft play (lateral) that’s why it only sticks when it’s running = vacuum so as the engine pulls vacuum it pulls the throttle shaft laterally and so it causes to stick on portions Check that out and hopefully you get to solve it brother
Hello, are those 70mm throttle bodies same as the one in shopee? if so are they good? planning to use one on my turbo build, and what would be a better manifold for the 70mm? planning to use a oem one p2j/y8 or p08/z6 intake manifold? port matched
The 70mm I’m not sure if same from shoppee also the 70mm is too big for the sohc manifold will have a thin area for the gasket between throttle and iacv hole
What size tb do you recommend for a stock k24 motor with rrc manifold, 50vtc, plm headers and 3"custom exhaust and ktuner, shooting for 240hp on 98octane here in Australia
Looks like “atleast” 70mm is good and the k24 we building is also stock but the KPower intake came with a 74mm but I feel that as long as it’s a minimum 70mm it’s gold
No idea about bigger TB means more power unless your engine is demanding more air flow. thank you for this sir, currently have a P2J intalke manifold with a stock TB from an LXi, was planning to do a B16 TB upgrade like most people do. Still thinking what can I do as an upgrade to the engine. Current setup is a > PH15 block > P2M Cyl.Head > P2J intake manifold (IACV is Manual already) > PH16 Fuel Injectors > P06 Rechipped ECU the TB is still in it's stock form. Would love to know your thoughts or suggestions. ^.^
Well it’s more complicated than what our locals claim… cuz tb also feeds the plenum and the plenum is where the runners get air from for the engine :) so it’s a “system” not bolt on gaming lol u can check on a CRV tb it might be cheaper cuz locally too many parts are hype priced hehehe Is that a Ph15 lx (carb dati) or a ph15a Lxi block?
@@SRDmotorsports yup, saw some CRV TB's up for grabs that can be a good upgrade pero kasi iniisip ko if little gains lang sayang money and effort if pwede pala sa ibang tuneable parts ilagay. Not sues if PH15 carbie or PH15A. Im thinking of PH15A since it's a EK SiR body, LXi. Nakuha ko kasi changed head na and all the fun stuf
Hey, I have an issue with the Skunk2 70mm for my D serie I have set over all the stock sensors to it and I installed it but for some reason it keep jumping up and down revs from 1000rpm to 1500rpm consistently. I would appreciate any help.
Check vacuum leaks etc If tps is set properly? Good but if issues still occur then might have to redo this but before setting the TPS, pre set the throttle to where it is properly closed with the idle stopper screw Because the tps may be set and it shows “closed” but the butterfly may be still cracked open, just like as if it’s missing the idle air screw pretty much the same symptoms
I have just fixed the weird rev problem. I just didn't connect the idle control, just a dump mistake. But now I'm struggling to set the idle the idle is really high now even when the car is just sitting still. When driving just in first gear and them sitting still, it sometimes at almost 3k rpm. I have tried to set the trottle sensor, but it didn't help.
Always thankful for sharing this info brother! So what you're saying is that, no HP gains will happen even if you upgrade to a bigger TB when you still have a stock intake manifold (non ported/polished), right?
In a sense yeah but also look at the engine as a whole a b16a may not benefit a 74mm tb lol and stroke/piston speeds play a factor too And lastly but def not the least… the intake pipe if it’s a 3in or a 4in
check the sensor in the Honda manual 0.5v closed and 4.5v fully open If u get 4.36 then obviously the ecu will think u are never full throttle when u are full throttle it just shows the ecu it’s 97% full not 100% so big chance I won’t even reach the last vertical column of the map in tuning the ecu
@@martinskolnik9179 ah then the shaft is twisted as I said in the video The arch of the throttle is still “full circle” and the shaft turns 360 perfect “unless” bent if the throttle plate is aligned I assume u tried loosening the throttle plate and seeing how it aligns on all throttle openings 1/4 1/2 3/4 and full throttle?
@@SRDmotorsports i didnt played with it anymore because i failed emissions because of tbody so i installed oem and called it a day 😂😂😂 btw thanks for replying
@@martinskolnik9179 well if the throttle is on the desk or shelf? Try it cuz it might not be a twisted or bent shaft it might be just needing adjustment on the plate alignment Then when it’s okay? Post fs on Facebook “super rare item” hahahaha
@@turtles619916 oh yes yes I know what u mean it’s the one with a nut that locks it in place lemme check what fits it etc and I know if it’s near impossible to find replacements on it from stores? A local nut n bolt place can secure it for u just we gotta see what threat it is As I don’t wanna guess lol
Been looking for this answer for a while! I'll adjust my H22 throttle tomorrow, now that I know the true reason for the sticking
Oh wow thank you man! And definitely super glad this helps in one ways or another :)
Seen this apen before but now I know how to fix it. Thanks.
Yes amigo for also when u check other throttle if buying it’s easy to check too :)
That smoke detector is never going to stop lol. Reminds me of my buddy's house
Bruh it’s tiring I change it then weeks or months later still same 😆😂🤣 my bad guys
Lol maybe get one that uses the electrical wires. You don't have to worry about batteries then
@@jophatb3945 ah yeah true , just realized this vid was a few months down I think it’s okay now maybe next month again it starts yapping 😂🤣😅
My throttle body rubs on one side and sticks. It's a bbk throttlebody/plenum for a 4.6 2v. I loosened the screws for the plate and kept opening it until it fit in the right spot, then put the screws back in. So if you're having that grinding issue, there you go
Yes sir! You worded it perfect!
Hi, excelente channel, sorry Ford My English.
I have the same problem whit skunk2 trottle body, anda see the skunk don't have spring in TPS side.
I put oem spring and fix the problem, i hope they info is useful.
Yes the oem spring would work to help it’s the same size atleast
How did you install the spring in the TPS?
Yeah Buddy. Great info as always. Cheers
Yeeeep bud!
I usually set it until it sticks and adjust the stop screw just a hair to remove the sticking, and double check it while the engine is running, then I'll calibrate the tps 🙂
I think that’s the right way = I do the same just a “smidge” to “unwedge” the plate from sticking and then that’s a GO!
Ftw!
@@SRDmotorsports i thought i was doing it wrong until i watched this video😅
@@AelAeo I tried to explain it how u explained it (you explained it better hahaha)
the billet ones always get a bad rap only cuz the full throttle stop is adjustable so if u are over 4.5v (after setting the idle stop and getting 0.5v) u throw a CEL
Then the billet gets blamed lol
It simply has an “extra” variable to adjust that’s all
Best way
Yes sirrrr
Great info I subscribed! I wonder if this is the cause to my long time issue of my car not idling down. I didn't even think that adjusting the throttle would lead to calibrating the tps, but makes total sense. I wonder if incorrect adjustment could make it seem the IACV is acting up? My B18b1 swap idles high for a long time until I drive it for awhile. The weird part I can't explain is I can manipulate the correction in idle by quickly turning key off and back on before the motor cuts off. This works every time but I hope I don't wear my ignition or electrical system. Any thoughts why the quick on off corrects idle? I'm hoping it will fix this following your video.
Thanks for the knowledge! 👍
It is possible I mean it’s a possible cause because let’s say the ecu factory or rechipped the target idle is “900rpm”
but mechanically the throttle and tps is closed different or on idle state it’s different the ecu will have a hard time trying to “force” it to idle to its target
And vice versa so it’s worth checking
Correct with the sticking issues, but most people don't know how to fine tune a throttle body to manipulate the ECU 😶
So so so so trueeee
Should you see any light around the the throttle body plate in closed position? I've been having idle issues I have thought about boring out the idle screw adjustment or opening the throttle plate with the stop screw. I built a b20v with a victor x manifold and skunk2 70mm throttle body. I think the IACV is having trouble providing enough air.
When closed not really
Before u bore the adjustment screw for the air
Double check the stopper on idle etc etc just like in the video
@SRDmotorsports when closed i can barely see a little light sorund the edge of the throttle plate, I backed the throttle stop all the way until it started sticking, and then I turned it until it barely touched the plate and no more sticking
@SRDmotorsports also, I do not have any vacuum leaks, but it has something to do with the iacv not being able to keep up, even with iacv duty increased on S300 hondata, I do have a new iacv coming just to give it a shot
Oh I see so ur idle issue is mainly not being able to pick up rpm etc so if that’s the case then definitely it’s leaning more towards a stuck iacv
@SRDmotorsports thanks you for your tips and your informative videos 😁
Can you do a video on how to reset/calibrate a tps? Love the knowledge on how to solve these problems
Oh good idea can see if I can do that or squeeze it in or even at the shop page…
Main challenge here is making it “
More “visual” than just explaining lol
@@SRDmotorsports a lot of people like me learn by seeing and hands on experience lol I learned from the book and going to school but understood it once I got my hands on it
Great tips! Great info! 🙌🏾🙌🏾
Yes sir! Simple tips simple tools… something easy to check when it’s disassembled or not yet installed
Or even inspection when buying a used TB ftw!
Hey man I love your videos I've been subscribed for a while now. Always great content and great information, keep em coming! But I do have a question I can't figure this out. My 74mm skunk2 TB only sticks with engine running. Engine on if I slowly open the throttle plate by rotating the rotor where cable meets it, you can feel where it gets slightly stuck. Also at a couple more point further open. I did this with cable disconnected to isolate the tb. But with the engine off it's as smooth as can be all the way through. It's driving me crazy I even removed throttle cable and made sire the cable was not sticking anywhere. I would greatly appreciate any input!
Hmm interesting and very odd situation there man…. Only thing I can think of is probably throttle shaft play (lateral) that’s why it only sticks when it’s running = vacuum so as the engine pulls vacuum it pulls the throttle shaft laterally and so it causes to stick on portions
Check that out and hopefully you get to solve it brother
Hello, are those 70mm throttle bodies same as the one in shopee? if so are they good? planning to use one on my turbo build, and what would be a better manifold for the 70mm? planning to use a oem one p2j/y8 or p08/z6 intake manifold? port matched
The 70mm I’m not sure if same from shoppee
also the 70mm is too big for the sohc manifold will have a thin area for the gasket between throttle and iacv hole
What size tb do you recommend for a stock k24 motor with rrc manifold, 50vtc, plm headers and 3"custom exhaust and ktuner, shooting for 240hp on 98octane here in Australia
Looks like “atleast” 70mm is good and the k24 we building is also stock but the KPower intake came with a 74mm
but I feel that as long as it’s a minimum 70mm it’s gold
Thanks for the tips
yes brother!
No idea about bigger TB means more power unless your engine is demanding more air flow. thank you for this sir, currently have a P2J intalke manifold with a stock TB from an LXi, was planning to do a B16 TB upgrade like most people do.
Still thinking what can I do as an upgrade to the engine. Current setup is a
> PH15 block
> P2M Cyl.Head
> P2J intake manifold (IACV is Manual already)
> PH16 Fuel Injectors
> P06 Rechipped ECU
the TB is still in it's stock form. Would love to know your thoughts or suggestions. ^.^
Well it’s more complicated than what our locals claim… cuz tb also feeds the plenum and the plenum is where the runners get air from for the engine :) so it’s a “system” not bolt on gaming lol
u can check on a CRV tb it might be cheaper cuz locally too many parts are hype priced hehehe
Is that a Ph15 lx (carb dati) or a ph15a Lxi block?
@@SRDmotorsports yup, saw some CRV TB's up for grabs that can be a good upgrade pero kasi iniisip ko if little gains lang sayang money and effort if pwede pala sa ibang tuneable parts ilagay.
Not sues if PH15 carbie or PH15A. Im thinking of PH15A since it's a EK SiR body, LXi. Nakuha ko kasi changed head na and all the fun stuf
@@NightWorksMediaRYE ah yes lxi if side dipstick and from an EK
@@SRDmotorsports yeeep. It's an LXi. Was wondering what best upgrades can be done next with the current ones I have
@@NightWorksMediaRYE mostly ported manifold or even head is the next best step but that is big work for a daily driver
Hey, I have an issue with the Skunk2 70mm for my D serie I have set over all the stock sensors to it and I installed it but for some reason it keep jumping up and down revs from 1000rpm to 1500rpm consistently. I would appreciate any help.
Check vacuum leaks etc
If tps is set properly? Good but if issues still occur then might have to redo this but before setting the TPS, pre set the throttle to where it is properly closed with the idle stopper screw
Because the tps may be set and it shows “closed” but the butterfly may be still cracked open, just like as if it’s missing the idle air screw pretty much the same symptoms
I have just fixed the weird rev problem. I just didn't connect the idle control, just a dump mistake. But now I'm struggling to set the idle the idle is really high now even when the car is just sitting still. When driving just in first gear and them sitting still, it sometimes at almost 3k rpm. I have tried to set the trottle sensor, but it didn't help.
Do check the throttle stop screw it may still be set a bit high… and also check vacuum leaks
Who allows there TB to slam shut with a full force unless you slide your foot off the side of the accelerater pedle? Im just saying.
Yup
Always thankful for sharing this info brother! So what you're saying is that, no HP gains will happen even if you upgrade to a bigger TB when you still have a stock intake manifold (non ported/polished), right?
In a sense yeah but also look at the engine as a whole
a b16a may not benefit a 74mm tb lol
and stroke/piston speeds play a factor too
And lastly but def not the least… the intake pipe if it’s a 3in or a 4in
@@SRDmotorsports Much appreciated for your feedback brother! 🙂🙂
No problem man :)
Whats wrong if close 0.5 but open 4.36 ?
check the sensor in the Honda manual
0.5v closed and 4.5v fully open
If u get 4.36 then obviously the ecu will think u are never full throttle when u are full throttle it just shows the ecu it’s 97% full not 100%
so big chance I won’t even reach the last vertical column of the map in tuning the ecu
But what if the plate doesnt return all the way and stays open to an amount that it idles around 1400rpm and u have to blip the gas pedal to close it
Weak return spring
Seen it happen and a lot of times using the oem return spring helps
But a lot of work lol
@@SRDmotorsports i changed the spring to oem but it still didnt return so i used the oem t-body
@@martinskolnik9179 ah then the shaft is twisted as I said in the video
The arch of the throttle is still “full circle” and the shaft turns 360 perfect “unless” bent
if the throttle plate is aligned
I assume u tried loosening the throttle plate and seeing how it aligns on all throttle openings 1/4 1/2 3/4 and full throttle?
@@SRDmotorsports i didnt played with it anymore because i failed emissions because of tbody so i installed oem and called it a day 😂😂😂 btw thanks for replying
@@martinskolnik9179 well if the throttle is on the desk or shelf? Try it cuz it might not be a twisted or bent shaft it might be just needing adjustment on the plate alignment
Then when it’s okay? Post fs on Facebook “super rare item” hahahaha
my idle screw on my skunk2 came off. do you know the thread/size to get it replaced?
oh crap…. Sorry to hear that… lemme check at the shop tommorow I can measure it and let you know
okay thanks! I also meant Idle stop screw. the thing below the throttle plate. One day it was just gone haha
@@turtles619916 oh yes yes I know what u mean it’s the one with a nut that locks it in place lemme check what fits it etc and I know if it’s near impossible to find replacements on it from stores? A local nut n bolt place can secure it for u just we gotta see what threat it is
As I don’t wanna guess lol
Honda power
🔥💯
I wish this was an English.
yeah
Preaent! Lolz
Ftw!! So quick at work haha
@@SRDmotorsports tinira mo nanaman ako.. hahaha.. FYI, last week pa tapos mga reports ko sa work..
chillax mode = SRD Motorsports time..😘💪👍
@@ferdinandbenjaminco9113 ooooh “petiks” mode then def take advantage of the “office tools” such as internet hahaha ftw!!!
@@SRDmotorsports yari nnman ako.. hehehe..
@@ferdinandbenjaminco9113 no no no that’s the perfect use of it… “learnings” vs random pinoy entertainments lol like most waste on