Hi Bill, I'm still a noob at this 3d printing game... I just started at Christmas this year. I have an Ender3v2 and still learning about the settings.. this is very helpful to me and your information is better for me as you didn't rush through it as a lot of others do and you explained why you did that and that helps my train of thought work out these things.. I am always about quality but also speed as many of the items I would like to print that I have found on Thingiverse take 12+ hrs and I do not want to have my printer working all night while I am asleep as I am very cautious with things operating like a 3d printer while asleep as I am an ex-firefighter and don't want to be woken up by a fire at home situation.
Smart man! I cringe when I see people ask if it's ok to run your printer over night or while you leave your house, and everybody tells them it's fine. I don't do it. I treat it like a clothes dryer, only to be used while you're home and awake.
I love the way you explain, and totally understand about the speeds and feeds, Just t say for quality i tend to stay at around 40ms on my enders 3 v2 ,But after seeing this i will give it a ramp up and see what happens. Thank you for taking the time to share. oh can you share your curu Profile of the ender 3. I know all are different but i have not used Curu yet and would like a good working profile to try it
Great info Bill! Even printing at moderate speeds, 3D printing has so many variables, that it takes epic amounts of time, patience, and deductive skills to get quality prints. The machine, filaments, environment, and even the designs themselves all add up to one hell of a challenge. I thought I was getting good, then I switched filament brands and met my match with a part that, as of now, is impossible to print cleanly at reasonable speeds. That's all part of the fun though, isn't it!
Cross these items off of the list if you've already done them..when I get a new printer I always check my esteps first followed by flow rate. THem I'll run a temperature tower to dial that in. The next step I would do is check the flow rate, then retraction. I have videos for doing all of those things on my channel. Temperature and retraction will go along way in reducing stringing. A slow print speed helps to. I hope this information helps!
And you tried different filaments? Could just be the filament. Insufficient retraction or just a bit of moisture in the nozzle can cause a tiny bit of plastic to ooze out and form small strings. Depending on the filament, turning on wipe-while-retract (typically under filament settings in the various slicers) might help (or make things worse ;-) ).
This need for speed has gotten out of control as companies race to advertise speeds up to 600mm/s! There are no statistics as to whether this machines have reliability in the long term never mind the short term. Most of the prints I have seen are mostly junk and I see reviews pass over the faults and saying " looks good"! I want quality prints and will print as slow as necessary to obtain that result. Also want a reliable machine that is quiet unlike the Bambu and others that make a racket. Gerry
I can't argue with that! I do have a Bambu X1 and I do like it. But like you said, there are no statistics as to their reliability in the long term. I am keeping my fingers crossed. But what bugs me most is that when somebody gets a Bambu Labs printer, they jump on FB/Reddit and saying they are selling their "Fill In The Blank Brand Printer". I'm still using my Ender 3's, 5 and 5 Plus's just as much as I did before. I also agree with review pass over of "Looks Good". 9 times out of 10 I see those comments and think "Really?" Speed is nice, but quality is the ultimate goal. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
@@pushingplastic7445 You might prefer looks, others prefer strength or fast prototyping cycles. I don't care about zits or other small artefacts as long as my part works correctly and doesn't break easily and if that can be done at 300mm/s on my corexy, then I prefer that over waiting twice as long to avoid those tiny artefacts. But regardless of whether you want quality or speed, Klipper really makes a difference. OctoPrint + Marlin caused many more zits on my printers than printing twice as fast on Klipper - and this was with a 32bit board. I like the simplicity of Marlin, but just moving to Klipper, doubling the speed, tuning PA and Input Shaping (with a print, you don't even need the ADXL) will significantly improve quality. Marlin just has to do too much on that printer's mcu and that hampers accuracy. Sure, Marlin now has input shaping and I tried it, but it didn't come close to the quality and smoothness of Klipper. So, regardless whether you want speed or quality or both, move to Klipper!
Don't get me wrong... I am totally agreeing with you but........... As a 8 month newbie to 3D printing, my assessment is that it is a major waste of time. Now don't get your panties in a bind. IF this a hobby or career for you then all is good. But if you want to just print useful items and enjoy the process... the consumer 3d market is pathetic. The industry is very immature. Cohesive documentation, support, out of the box experience, quality of output, time to complete output all are a "C" at best. If the document printer biz delivered the hum-hum experience of the 3D printing market (consumer), then people would still be handwriting documents. Time is money and my time of having to spend 15 hours to print a simple little desk tray organizer is pretty ineffective. Is it fun? Sure is! But the forementioned experience is a mostly a major deficit in effective and efficient use of time. Ok... I need to get back to Fusion360, Cura, fumbling with calibrating my printer (again and again) so I can print a widget.... oh boy.
I agree, in fact time is money was one of the lines I used in the video but was cut out. Another saying I use a lot "if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right". That's why I was searching for the balance between speed and quality. If I was doing something like a bracket, I would go for speed and strength. But in a functional model, I would go for quality over speed. Keep those comments coming! Thanks for watching!
Hi Bill, I'm still a noob at this 3d printing game... I just started at Christmas this year. I have an Ender3v2 and still learning about the settings.. this is very helpful to me and your information is better for me as you didn't rush through it as a lot of others do and you explained why you did that and that helps my train of thought work out these things.. I am always about quality but also speed as many of the items I would like to print that I have found on Thingiverse take 12+ hrs and I do not want to have my printer working all night while I am asleep as I am very cautious with things operating like a 3d printer while asleep as I am an ex-firefighter and don't want to be woken up by a fire at home situation.
Smart man! I cringe when I see people ask if it's ok to run your printer over night or while you leave your house, and everybody tells them it's fine. I don't do it. I treat it like a clothes dryer, only to be used while you're home and awake.
I am such a noob at 3d printing, but I always seem to slow my printer way down because the prints come out amazing!!!
I love the way you explain, and totally understand about the speeds and feeds, Just t say for quality i tend to stay at around 40ms on my enders 3 v2
,But after seeing this i will give it a ramp up and see what happens.
Thank you for taking the time to share.
oh can you share your curu Profile of the ender 3. I know all are different but i have not used Curu yet and would like a good working profile to try it
My profile is still a work in progress, I'll try to wrap it up this week and see about getting it out there!
Great info Bill! Even printing at moderate speeds, 3D printing has so many variables, that it takes epic amounts of time, patience, and deductive skills to get quality prints. The machine, filaments, environment, and even the designs themselves all add up to one hell of a challenge. I thought I was getting good, then I switched filament brands and met my match with a part that, as of now, is impossible to print cleanly at reasonable speeds. That's all part of the fun though, isn't it!
LOL, you got that right! I'm to the point of not like to change filament brands sometimes!
Thanks for the video. I am using the Anycubic Kobra Max. I cannot get rid of hair-type stringing on my prints.
Cross these items off of the list if you've already done them..when I get a new printer I always check my esteps first followed by flow rate. THem I'll run a temperature tower to dial that in. The next step I would do is check the flow rate, then retraction. I have videos for doing all of those things on my channel. Temperature and retraction will go along way in reducing stringing. A slow print speed helps to. I hope this information helps!
And you tried different filaments? Could just be the filament. Insufficient retraction or just a bit of moisture in the nozzle can cause a tiny bit of plastic to ooze out and form small strings. Depending on the filament, turning on wipe-while-retract (typically under filament settings in the various slicers) might help (or make things worse ;-) ).
This need for speed has gotten out of control as companies race to advertise speeds up to 600mm/s! There are no statistics as to whether this machines have reliability in the long term never mind the short term. Most of the prints I have seen are mostly junk and I see reviews pass over the faults and saying " looks good"! I want quality prints and will print as slow as necessary to obtain that result. Also want a reliable machine that is quiet unlike the Bambu and others that make a racket. Gerry
I can't argue with that! I do have a Bambu X1 and I do like it. But like you said, there are no statistics as to their reliability in the long term. I am keeping my fingers crossed. But what bugs me most is that when somebody gets a Bambu Labs printer, they jump on FB/Reddit and saying they are selling their "Fill In The Blank Brand Printer". I'm still using my Ender 3's, 5 and 5 Plus's just as much as I did before. I also agree with review pass over of "Looks Good". 9 times out of 10 I see those comments and think "Really?" Speed is nice, but quality is the ultimate goal. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
@@pushingplastic7445 You might prefer looks, others prefer strength or fast prototyping cycles. I don't care about zits or other small artefacts as long as my part works correctly and doesn't break easily and if that can be done at 300mm/s on my corexy, then I prefer that over waiting twice as long to avoid those tiny artefacts. But regardless of whether you want quality or speed, Klipper really makes a difference. OctoPrint + Marlin caused many more zits on my printers than printing twice as fast on Klipper - and this was with a 32bit board. I like the simplicity of Marlin, but just moving to Klipper, doubling the speed, tuning PA and Input Shaping (with a print, you don't even need the ADXL) will significantly improve quality. Marlin just has to do too much on that printer's mcu and that hampers accuracy. Sure, Marlin now has input shaping and I tried it, but it didn't come close to the quality and smoothness of Klipper. So, regardless whether you want speed or quality or both, move to Klipper!
Don't get me wrong... I am totally agreeing with you but...........
As a 8 month newbie to 3D printing, my assessment is that it is a major waste of time.
Now don't get your panties in a bind.
IF this a hobby or career for you then all is good.
But if you want to just print useful items and enjoy the process... the consumer 3d market is pathetic.
The industry is very immature. Cohesive documentation, support, out of the box experience, quality of output, time to complete output all are a "C" at best.
If the document printer biz delivered the hum-hum experience of the 3D printing market (consumer), then people would still be handwriting documents.
Time is money and my time of having to spend 15 hours to print a simple little desk tray organizer is pretty ineffective.
Is it fun? Sure is! But the forementioned experience is a mostly a major deficit in effective and efficient use of time.
Ok... I need to get back to Fusion360, Cura, fumbling with calibrating my printer (again and again) so I can print a widget.... oh boy.
I agree, in fact time is money was one of the lines I used in the video but was cut out. Another saying I use a lot "if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right". That's why I was searching for the balance between speed and quality. If I was doing something like a bracket, I would go for speed and strength. But in a functional model, I would go for quality over speed. Keep those comments coming! Thanks for watching!