The FASTEST 3D Printer I’ve Ever Used (Ankermake M5 Review)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 เม.ย. 2024
- This month I tested the Ankermake M5, a new 3D printer from a new company in the 3D printing space.
Check out the Ankermake M5: tiny.cc/90y4vz
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You guys are totally right! The actual printing speed of the M5 will definitely be further limited by acceleration. As I mentioned, the 5X speed advertised is mostly a marketing gimmick but acceleration is another important limiting factor to consider. A misstep on my part!
Too bad they dont sell at bestbuy under the total tech warranty!
@@darith27 total tech will still cover this! No matter what for replacement for 2 years. I’m a manager I promise you this Darith. Thanks for being a meme bee if you are one. But yeah speak to any manager there. They’ll tell you it’s cover for replacement for electronics damages.
i was looking for a good beginner printer, do you still think the ender is the best or are there any other options?
@@Mewtwo-xi5og it was never the best option. It was the cheapest option. Now everyone else makes a slightly better one, and creality makes a lot of much more expensive ones that are still flawed in the same ways.
Sovol Sv06 is a decent printer.
The truth is, the public doesn't have a "3D printer," it's essentially a *3D Element Solder* machine. And why it's so slow. To actually do a "3D printing." It must solder in a full strip line at any one sliding longitude/latitude/altitude flow per layer make.
The fact that I can make things out of thin air whenever I need them is a dream from my childhood come true. How fast it happens just isn't a factor.
So true
Please come back, your videos are amazing!
Yeah Matt, I loved your videos! Come back plz.
why did u stop making videos?
The 3d printer killed him
Bro died because of the A.I.
Glad to see a new video of you again.
I don’t know you that long but man this quality and effort you put into your videos is insane
Hi, great video, I just wanted to clarify one thing. When you talk about speed you have to take into consideration acceleration too. Even if you set a speed of 250mm/s if you printer is limited by low accelerations, it will never reach that speed. Another thing to keep in mind, especially for vase mode, is layer time. Usually the slicer makes the printer move slow enough to give time to the layer to cool down before printing the next one. This could influence the real printing speed.
In general it is a great machine, considering his cartesian kinematics
Have in mind that acceleration and minimum layer time are just as important as mm/s. TPU can print fast. I have a video showing of 300mm/s I believe but have bin printing at 400mm/s. The flow are the limiting factor.
This was a really great/well-done video. I'm just getting into 3D printing myself and this video really helped as well as answered a lot of my initial questions.
Always love seeing a new video from you! Great work
I may add the Ankermate to a fleet of printers at some point, but I gotta say, I love the versatility of the Ender series (or any printer based on generic aluminum extrusions in general). There is just more customizability in those printers with a HUGE following an support. I'd be interested in the future upgradability for Anker printers.
The z offset requirement on your ender 3 is because the probe is separate from the nozzle. On the anchor make it uses the nozzle itself for probing so it knows exactly what The z offset is already.
Dude your videos are so insanly high quality, keep up the work man! It's always a pleasure to watch. Stay consistant and your audience will 100% catch up to your quality
Bot
@@cayden2407 no monkey business
Hey Matt, we miss ya. Your videos are so clear, helpful and interesting. Hope your doin well
Just what happen?
I miss this absolute Legend
My first working* printer, the DreamMaker Overlord Pro(Deltaprinter), from 2016 printed at 100mm/s according to the official specs, but you could push it higher if you didn't care for finish.(150mm/s was possible) Oh, and it did sensorless bedlevelling... And since it was a Delta printer with Bowden type extruder, it could accellerate like nothing else.
I'm currently rebuilding it... slowly, very slowly, and hoping for higher speeds.
*The Mendel Prusa I built a few years before out of printed parts and threaded rods... never really worked properly.
Where have you been? No new FPV videos in a long time.
5:50
The stepper motor on the Y axis is the same as the ender 5 pro I have.
You can put a dual y axis belt mod on any ender 3.
Linear rails instead of pom wheels are a much better way to spend your money.
I’m so glad your back I love your fpv vids
I just want to say thank you because I used a small part of your video in a video of my clients
If you want to print large items, it’s also worth looking into setting up a little print farm (3 or 4 of the same printer) as opposed to investing in a single (expensive) printer that claims to do it all lightning fast. Different advantages to both for sure, but worth considering.
Print farms are a pain in the ass unless the printers have auto levelling so your going to end up spending a bit more anyway unless you feel like messing with bltouch sensors.
@@acorgiwithacrown467 I don't have any auto leveling on my 4 ender 3's and haven't touched the level in well over 3 months using them daily. I did remove the springs and make the base semi rigid though using silicon spacers.
@@Smokinjoewhite For simple stuff its not an issue, anything complex and eventually you're going to run into issues.
Id rather have more printers
@@acorgiwithacrown467 also not true! I've done many "complex" prints without issues
Hello "Matt Pochwat"! Thank you for showing us such a wonderful video! I feel so happy! I'm looking forward to your next work! Have a nice day!
great review! Thank you for breaking it down for us 👍
You should look into a bamboo labs printer. The p1p is around the same price and offers 10x the printing speeds at good quality. And the x1 has the ai features that work for the most part.
Elon musk
I personally own an X1C and can confirm it is the best printer I have ever used. Also the base speed is higher then what we are seeing here.
They are also a lot bigger, and the P1P is $100 cheaper. This printer gets absolutely blown out of the water by both.
@@HarryPorpise yep there’s a reason the Bambu labs printers are being used by literally everyone. They’ve change the entire industry.
10x the speed of M5? No. Don't get me wrong, P1P is great and mighty actually be a better choice but it is NOT 10x faster.
Can you use the slicer with the app, or do I need a pc to do that?
how do you make it that after a print, you dont leave resudues?
Bro, where'd you go???
Hey Matt as a fellow Canadian I just wanted to let you know Bott Grinder just mentioned you as one of the most honest FPV you tubers and hoped everything was ok with you as do I.. you are who I watch the most getting into FPV . Where did you go?
Thx for such a great review. I was considering this printer as my 2nd (1st Creality CR 6-SE), but I've also been wanting to go Core XY. There are just so many choices. Did you by chance test Octoprint with this printer? If so, does it work? The camera work with it?
Planning to buy a printer and wonder the vases you made which filament did you use and as if it’s good for the plants and dirt along with water.
Did you put a hole at the bottom.
At first this will be my main reason to buy.
Yes, I am still at a beginning stage. I would like to know if the printer is quite, it sounded like it in the video and if you had tried the firmware update. I replaced the main board in my Ender 3 , firmware definitely had its issues.
glad ur back!
We have 2 M5's and a full-blown Ultimate s5. I would rather use the M5! Ankermaker did a wonderful job at design, materials, and manufacturing. Their slicer to print over wifi works great. I hope they make a bigger enclosed model for ABS and other high temp plastics.
I do want to mention that the Bambu labs p1p does accelerate up to 2000mm/s ^2 and uses the vibrations to make it faster.
7 month .. Where are you now ?
I'm at the market right now for 3D printers, BTW I'm new to all of this which would you recommend Ender-3 S1 Plus vs Ankermake M5? I know there is a huge price difference between the two of them or maybe I should also consider the Prusa i3 MK3S+? Im planning to use also for my shop not only for a hobby.
Best parts of the video are the warning at the end, well put, and the editing master judo move at 14:25.
my skirt and first layer are at 60mms then the rest of the print is 120mms. i use .4 and .6mm nozzles depending on how big the print is. I use the same settings on 2 printers. i have a longer lk4 pro (ender 3) and a longer lk5 pro (cr10). the lk5 pro will print way faster than the lk4 pro because it has the extra supports that significantly stiffen up the z "tower". and i have all upgraded steppers and dual z steppers. But i leave the settings the same so the files are interchangeable. Even with the bigger bed of the lk5 i can use lk4 files itll just be off center when it prints. i have a ton of upgrades but even stock both of my printers were great. there is absolutely no need to buy expensive printers when there are amazing cheap(ish) printers that exist.
As a first buyer for 3D Printers I was wondering if you could tell me which would be better quality and faster between the Creality 3 S1 or the Creality 3 S1 pro
Hello im wondering if you can use the beta 2se fpv controller for the emax tiny hawk 2 freestyle
For that price, you just buy a P1P or some coreXY printer, this design isn't ment to print fast but to be cheap to produce.
do you use tolerance when printing? I am new to printing, but I have been learning about things like interference and clearance fits and the classes they have. If you look up these charts, you can try and make parts to work with the real world with as little mistakes as possible. These charts however are mainly for holes and shafts and you have to keep in mind the values you see for the tolerance are for thousanths of an inch. Even if the printer were to print something that has exactly the nominal dimentions you instruct, having the same interior diameter of a holder with the same exterior diamter of the thing that is being held will create a very snug press fit and that isnt even taking into account the horrizontal expansion of 3d printing. I think it is enough to be of concern when fitting objects together. If you try these maybe the mistakes will be lessened
Havn't finished watching it but came here to say you should try the BambuLabs X1 Carbon or even P1P. I think the P1P is more in this price range (actually cheaper) and better.
Finished watching now. Another great video. Love the honesty and always respect your opinions! How's the FPV flying been?
Exactly what I thought!
100% Anker's biggest mistake is staying with a bed slinger. This limits the speed of tall thin objects. My X1C is incredible, and has changed my entire perspective on 3d printing- and I've been printing for over 10 years! Started with a Solidoodle.
@@Jwmbike14 same! Been printing for 10 years now. I went from a wooden Replicator and finally "upgraded" to a Duplicator i3 machine a few years ago because it was $100 and found that was a bigger problem than i would have thought. Not only that it also moves the parts through the air, effectively cooling parts when you don't want to. Learned even though it could print at 120mm/s at first it would have to be lowered the higher and heavier the print gets. While my old Replicator could print at 160mm/s perfectly (when printing via USB, offloading the board processing).
I picked up a Creality Sermoon D1 last year for $275, on clearance and open box. Going back to a solid bed had made prints far better since. Far more predictable prints and i can run it at 250mm/s 2,500 acceleration without an issue. Anything faster and the board can't keep up, needs faster electronics. I generally run it at 200mm/s 1,000 acceleration to keep it quiet, can barely hear it outside the closet it lives in.
*Should note tons of custom mods done to my old Replicator
i was gonna say the same thing
The "leaver" on top of the extruder can actually be used to change filaments. Just push it down and you can feed or pull out the filament
Like always great footage 👍👍
Is that camera usable locally? I don't want/need my 3d printer sending videos of my house to a random server that can later be hacked. For that matter, Anker recently had an issue with their web cameras not being encrypted, but claiming them to be encrypted. (I'm assuming Anker and AnkerMake are the same company.)
Tbh all i need is something to print a tiny camera mount and arm guards for my quad. What's the minimum I can get?
3:36 you can adjust how many bed probing points your printer does in the configuration file
It was hard to find a replacement build plate for your Ender3? Have you never used the site called Amazon? Are you possibly a Bing user?
I literally today went into ur profile to see how u're doing and now it turns out you've uploaded a video
Hello I want to get into fpv and I have never flown a drone, I have a 400$ budget and I would like to buy a controller, goggles, and a drone but I don't know where to start or what to get. What drone, goggles and controller should I get, or should I get a specific rtf kit you recommend? I also want decent equipment that I can use for probably a year or two before I would like to upgrade. Also I am looking for a digital option in my budget, if that's not possible then I understand, because fpv can be a pretty pricey hobby but I just want some recommendations on where to start, thank you
nice review. u got me into making stuff on youtube. your the best thanks
u got along way too go but dont let the comments go to your hart just keep editing all vids and try writing a script
What happends to elegoo neptune 4 with 500m/s?. I have one and its prints amazing even on 500m/s.
Hey Matt, I have a little problem with my Ankrrmake M5. The extruder or nozzle hits my 3D print after a certain time or after a certain layer height. This causes my 3D print to have unclean layers and sometimes the print breaks in some (narrow) places. Any idea what I can do?
Have you never used the Bambu Labs X1? Out of the box prints more than twice as fast- SUPER easy to use! I've had one print fail due to using Carbon PLA and bad layer adhesion for complicated support structure. Would really recommend it
i upgraded my cr10s pro v2s, increased weight with bitumen plates, added z-sync / rods, volcano hotend, cooling, linear rails, 0.9 steppers, klipper. it's a monster now, can literally do 3500 accel Y (x could do 12k) without any ghosting (suggested by resonsance test), 7000 accel with minor ghosting. print speeds ~150mm default for good looking parts, up to 300 if quality doesnt matter. even stock 90mm/s was perfect with this one. biggest upgrade was getting rid of creality motors, when you turn them they are grindy compared to the act motors i use.
An honest review. I like that.
So can you use normal PLA? Or do you need PLA+?? Also random request. Would you be able to tell me the measurements of the base of the printer. Not the bed, but the actual base/frame of the printer? I’m thinking of getting it but I don’t want it to be too big and not fit on my computer desk! Please and thank you!!!
I didn’t know ankermake send their 3d printer premiere out to test for free by average persons (your own words.)
I do appreciate your uploaded information, so thanks for sharing!
You can turn of the AI feature in the slicer under Settings/General. If you do that you won't be bothered with the notifications and a bigger plus for me is that the printer doesn't pause to initialize the first layer. I got my M5 in december and I'm loving it so far. I really like that Ankermake is listening to the users, they pushed out several firmware updates that solved a lot of minor issues and I don't really care about the AI-function anyway to be honest. Hopefully they start shipping the V6 color engine soon, I'm way more interested in that.
idk it be hard for me pay 700+ for printer and not get the features they offered as selling points and be happy about it. I'll wait see if they fix it
@@jamesharris9894 The big reason for me to back the kickstarter was that it looked like a plug and play printer. Since I'm new to 3d printing I was looking for something that just worked out of the box.
It was the first time I ever invested in a kickstarter project. But I own several Anker products and they are all top quality and after it featured on Linus I pulled the trigger. Ordered the V6 color engine as well.
And I have to say. Apart from the AI-feature not working (yet). I has been a really pleasant experience so far.
The printer is set up in less then 10 minutes. The hardware is top quality and I really like the wifi functionality and the auto- bed leveling.
But most importantly, most stl files I find online are printed perfectly and fast with just the default settings. It has been very reliable thusfar.
Sure, I had some failed prints and there are a few things that can be improved upon but they delivered on the most important thing for me and that is ease of use.
I received my printer in december, had it running in half an hour, and it has been printing almost non-stop since then without any need for adjustment. It still uses the first nozzle and the magnetic plate does not have a scratch on it.
So far I am really happy with my M5
Fantastic video man! First time seeing any of your content and wow! really nicely done! Also fully agree with everything you said here about the M5 - rocksolid printer but man oh man does that AI detection stink.
We are exactly the same right now. Never seen Matt's content and it is very high quality! AnkerMake is working on AI detection, thankfully. At least it isnt really really needed. M5 doesnt really fail often
Thanks man! Recently stumbled on a few of your videos too as I got interested in 3D printing. Good stuff!
Lol I printed that boat benchy on my X1C in under 13 minutes and the quality at that speed is nuts how well it come out
Managed to get my Ender 3 v3 to go slightly above this printers, max printing speed completely stock somehow. and the print quality has not been affected.
For the AI detection, add a poster-board behind the printer as a 'Quiet Background' to give it a better chance of accurate detection You may need to play with colors, rinse and repeat.
While it's a nice looking printer, it definitely feels like a big swing and a miss. You can get an Ender 3 S1 pro for $500 cad cheaper. With that savings you can buy a Wyze cam to check on your prints and still have $450 left over to buy filament. It just seems to me like Anker spent too much on getting this up and running and are trying to recoup their money by overcharging their customers. Either way great video Matt, happy to see you're making content again.
Well, yes you can get better perfomance for cheaper, but definitly not get better user experience for new 3d printing noobs. This 3d printer is geared for new people, you will definitly not get even get 150 mm/s without a lot of tinkering, flow calibration, linear advance and pressure advance tuning etc. Also this one is made to look good to consumers, not just for makers. So while it definitly isnt made for you and me, i dont think its a useless product. Its like a prusa, where you pay 1000€ for a normal bedslinger with outdated hardware, but get decent user Xp aswell.
Or you can just get a Bambu p1p 🤷🏻
@@aepfelpfluecker what? For that money you can get a prusa, and there’s nothing more reliable (and has an better out of the box experience) than one of their printers…
@@erebostd The Prusa i3 MK3s+ is a solid printer but the build-it-yourself kit cost $799, as much at the M5. That kit takes 6-8 hours to assemble, assuming the person doing the assembly has some basic mechanical skills. The M5 takes 10-20 minutes to set up and comes with an extra build plate, Prusa will send a second plate for an extra 35-40 bucks. I don't hate Prusa printers and for a long time they were king of the hill but they really haven't been innovating the last 4-5 years and their new large format printer has been plagued with delays and they refuse to release important information about specs and performance. Just to clarify they are taking money, 2000-4000 dollars on pre-orders, and haven't even told people the expected performance of the machine yet.
@@JaredCoiner if the reliability isn’t your concern, I’d get the P1P. It’s faster and has a better print quality than the ankermake. In my view the ankermake has competition on both ends. Prusa if you want a workhorse, and the P1P if you want fast, good prints… th-cam.com/video/5uBBnHZ080w/w-d-xo.html
This is the printer I have! This was my first printer and I love it!
Where is can find that flower pot you showed at 0:19 ?
The content of this video is great, but the editi is SO far beyond amazing and seriously helps convey your points.
Quick question. I'm new to 3D printing. But something you said in this video got me thinking. You mentioned how it is possible to have defects in your print, or even an outright failure.
I'm not sure if these are always from a bad design or something literally just going wrong in the print execution process. But in case of bad design I don't see why someone couldn't develop a print simulator. Something that goes through the motions of printing the design electronically only (not physically). In that way it would only take a few seconds to complete because it is only limited by the speed of the processor and memory.
How do you like the m1 imac
4:43 literally every printer has the extrude and retract feature. With Klipper it’s just a simple with their web based UI and you can do it from your cell phone from across your house.
The autobed leveling doing 49 points is stock in marlin firmware. Pretty easy to change the number of points though
It would be nice if the slicer could detect difficult spots and automatically print those portions of the print slower so you get the advantages of the increased speed whilst not compromising on quality and less risk of failed prints.
Unless thats already a thing and I've just never noticed it lol
The auto bed level corrects issues like this by micro-lifting and lowering around the build plate. As everything wears down you need to auto level regularly. Its like how the Bambu X1C take 10 minutes to start it's prints, which thank god you can turn off... AnkerMake simply doesn't force you to do it.
@@echo-hotel Thats not really what I'm talking about, more so the printer would slow down and maybe print at different layer heights automatically for certain areas of a print. Like it'll print large simple sections of a figurine quickly then slow down for the face.
@@acorgiwithacrown467 You're looking for the variable layer height setting. Otherwise slowing down is just your accelerations: it won't reach high speeds before it has to decelerate. Of course, nothing stops you from slapping on modifiers that set reduced speeds and accelerations for a given print area...
Missing the videos! Just got my first drone with the DJI goggles loving it!
Which 3d software do you use to model?
u know i have an ender 3 s1 and it can print as fast as the ankermake right
I just got my third printer. First was a BIQU B1, second Ender 3 Max, and now Ender 3 V3 SE. The V3 has all these features at a fraction of the cost. It prints fast enough it made me wonder if the filament had time to stick. My print speed is 180 consistently. I’m thoroughly impressed with the Ender 3 V3 SE.
I've had 3 Creality machines. They are good for a few months, MAYBE a year. Then the sub par stuff starts to break and wear out. The M5 is a totally different machine. That entire base is cast aluminum. It's more rigid than any printer I've ever experienced.
you should try a Bambu Labs X1C with AMS...its an amazing piece of machine!
Matt, I work in IT asset management, and we were impacted by the chip shortage, where sub contractors kept moving ship dates due to COVID. This makes sense that Anker had these issues around the same time. Totally not their fault. You can't get blood from a stone.
You CAN when printing your 3D model from the Ankermake Slicer to not generate an AI image, so the AI detection wont be applied
Can you make a review of the Radiomaster Boxer
Me, rocking my solidoodle 4 that's like 10 years old. I slightly modified it. Very accurate.
This video comes across something like an ad. The bed slinging kinematic system, especially with a large heavy bed like this, is the hardest to make fast, and certainly not 5x faster out of the box. Having a "print speed" of 150 instead of 30 is not "5x faster" because the limiting factor is acceleration, and most of the time that giant bed will be moving less than 50 mm/s with typical acceleration settings suitable for it.
My basically stock ender 3 pro prints at 120mm/s rarely any issues (60mm/s first layer)
How is this one compared to Bambu X1C?
This looks like a huge step forward in speed and performance, even though the AI is unfinished.
But, at 4 TIMES the price I paid for my Ender 3 ($200 shipped), at $800, this is not affordable for most people.
TH-cam channel CHEP, has made different printing profiles that significantly speed up the time it takes to print with an Ender 3! Quality is still good too. These profiles may make an 8 hour print take 4.5 hours, so significantly less time and still reasonable quality. Several options too.
Highly suggested!!!! 😎🤘
What a great review, Matt! Nicely done and so detailed! 👍
this man is not gambling with money in the casino but with 3d printers
I have an Ender 3 S1 too with professional cusrom firmware and cure mpox profile any my prints are high quality.
I hope the Anycubic Kobra 2 MAX will be as good if not better than it's first version. I had the original Kobra Max and it was epic, best big pints i had, returned it due to the announcement of the Kobra 2 MAX and it was still refundable via amazon, waiting for the shipment date and currently impatient as i wait.
7:15 Side by side comparison with two completely different models... Nice!
After nine months, what do you think, please? I would like to buy one.
I know a lot of people don't buy the speed thing but go try printing a benchy at 250m/s on an ender 3. Even with tweaking settings and machine mods it's difficult.
Can you use a 3d printer to print a 3d printer?
Please do review on the british drone industries adapter to convert dji goggles v2 into analog, i would like to see what you think of them.
I noticed the lidar on the bambu has issues but so does the ankermake. I wonder if this is cuz its a new type software. Though i think bambu fixed it. Though i think i may get the bambu later on. Anker messed up by not including a usb.
Anker fixed the ai but you have to train it, so I think the bambu lidar is fixed now. Glad Ankermake listened to their community never tried Bambu but I deff want it.
Any such that prints in metal?
Compare with bambulab p1p, How is it?
FYI y'all for this price point you can get a Core XY Printer aka like the Bambu Lab P1S.
There are a lot of new products on the printer market and I think we should try some new ones like Bambu lab or FLSUN v400, they look good and wild.
When thinking about quality, the more points it has the better the calculations of the beds stability.
The default settings on a Bambu X1C only top out at 300 mm/s for PLA and I can assure you the actual speed is MUCH faster than what you show here. Recently tried upping the Bambu's acceleration to 20,000 mm/s^2 from the default 10,000 mm/s^2. Acceleration is the real key to speed, and a bed slinger will NEVER even come close to a CoreXY or Delta, just look at the mass it has to move on the Y? or is it X? axis and the motor it has to move it with - and this changes as you add more mass to the printbed. I'm not aware of any slicer settings that let you slow down acceleration as more mass is laid on the bed, but my CR10 could easily carry several kilograms of plastic on a 300x300x400mm print. Acceleration at 20,000 mm/s^2 makes a Bambu sound roughly like an A10 Warthog chewing through a column of tanks, except MUCH MORE TERRIFYING SOUNDING. Not kidding at all. Sounded like missed steps at that speed, but I tried this on WildRoseBuilds' test cube and the result was perfect, so no, it wasn't missing steps. I just don't want to be in the room when it is printing at that speed. Running some numbers, at 20k acceleration, to slow from 300mm/s and reverse back up to 300mm/s, takes 30 milliseconds. In the time it takes to stop from full speed (300mm/s), the printhead covers 2.25mm. I looked up the CR-10S Pro profile in Simplify3D & it's saying 500mm/s^2 in XY and 100 in Z. 1/40th of the Bambu acceleration! 0 to 300mm/s takes 0.6 seconds on the CR-10, if it could even do it. It takes 90mm to ramp up and 90mm to ramp back down, which for a 300x300 bed, gives you 180mm averaging half-speed (best case) and 120mm at top speed. Given most parts and infill patterns are a lot shorter strokes than this, you can see the print speed is not getting up to the rates they are talking about.
Bro can you suggest me best printer with good speed and good print quality which is of more than 300mm bed size.
nerd
Nobody cares, take your bs somewhere else.