Easy DIY - Replace Rear Wheel Bearing (2012 - 2016 Honda CRV) 😲
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2022
- My 4th gen, 2013 Honda CRV has a bad rear wheel bearing. I will demonstrate how a DIYer can perform this work fast and easily in their own driveway. While sharing links to the tools and parts used.
#hondacrv #wheelbearing #milwaukeetools #diy
Rear Hub assembly:
Honda 42200-T0A-951Bearing Assembly, Rear Hub U
www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...
GEARWRENCH 1/2inch Drive Electronic Torque Wrench, 30-340 Nm - 85077
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Kobalt 856839 1/2-Inch Drive 12.5-250 Foot-Pound Programmable Electronic Torque Wrench with Torque-Angle
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Milwaukee 2598-22 M12 FUEL 2-Tool Combo Kit: 1/2 in. Hammer Drill and 1/4 in. Hex Impact Driver
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Milwaukee M12 FUEL 1/2" Right Angle Impact Wrench
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Milwaukee 2457-20 M12 Cordless 3/8" Lithium-Ion Ratchet
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Rear Brake pads
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Rear disc
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Makita XWT08Z 18V LXT® Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless High-Torque 1/2" Sq. Drive Impact Wrench, Tool Only
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I am not paid or sponsored by any company or item I review.
Disclaimer: This video is for entertainment purposes only, TH-cam, edtheoldtechguy and any affiliates are not responsible for any damage, injury, or loss of any kind that may result from following this tutorial. Attempt this at your own risk. edtheoldtechguy assumes no liability or guarantee of any kind.
Do you really need this Gear wrench tool set?
Could, Makita tools, Milwaukee, Dewalt,Craftsman, Snapon, Harbor Freight, MAC, MATCO, be modded? Tool truck tools are better? Milwaukee packout Edtheoldtechguy Home of the best tools reviews on youtube, Made in American made in the USA the best tools on the market shown only on edtheoldtechguy shillarmy! - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Instead of a long socket, I found that a swivel adapter on a standard 17mm socket worked great for getting a wrench in place and getting better leverage.
Bro... I'm doing this tomorrow on the wife's CRV. Thank you for an excellent video. You've probably saved me hours. Thank you. You've got a new subscriber 👍
Thank you! It is great joy to watch this video. You have made this job much easier than it should be. ☺☺
Wow! Thank you! Please consider watchign a few more videos and if it makes sense for what you watch consider subscribing
Done like a pro! Your narration is actually really good!! Excellent vid!!
Wow! You are too kind, Thank you very much.
Excellent. Very well done unlike most instructional videos. Thanks.
Thank you! Just trying to be a helping hand! Please feel free to catch some more of my content, and if it makes sense, please consider subscribing.
Straight to the point well narrated
Thank you!
Thank you brother. You made my job easy. Great instructions.
Glad it helped
Great video brother! Thank you! I am getting ready to tackle that job today.
You got this! Glad I was here to help!
You really did good video,explaining and great job,thanks so much in that way I dare to do it myself .
I am so glad I could help
My Honda had some kind of sealant holding it in. The little love taps don't cut it but a few hards chain pulls worked well.
Wow! sounds like hte bearing ruptured. I havent had it that bad yet
Excellent video. Thank you for doing this!
You are certainly welcome, helping others is exactly what my channel is about!
Well filmed and narrated, thanks.
I am so glad it helped you! Please feel free to search a few more videos and if they fir your viewing consider subscribing it really helps my channel and the over all diy community
Please do a video on CRV front bearing replacement. I followed this video to replace rear bearing assembly on my CRV 😊. Your detail explanations is awesome!
Wow Thank you! I will place that in the list of videos I am planning
Great video, well done and fully explained. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
wow You put alot of work into this 1 good job! good evergreeen content this 1 will get tons of views over the future!
Thanks bro, sadly the video isn't performing but that's OK. Hopefully it helps someone out there.
Great video, great format and great info!
Lindsay you humble me with your compliments, thank you, it means a lot to have a chance to show you what I can do. Knowing you meet with real pros every day.
Great video Ed
Thank you Sir! 😊
🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Thank you, I tried hard on this one.
I recently noticed a "Off Road Tire Sound" and wasn't sure, but as a mechanic that works on other vehicles and now own a CRV, this video is better than some of the classroom videos we saw in apprenticeship... Lol Keep up the great work. I would like to add - it is usually a good idea to replace both sides if one has worn, and I always replace the calipers to to provide max traction control in slippery conditions (rain, snow, slush).
Thank you for the kind words and yes you are right you should do both sides. I replaced the parking brake pads and hardware, and replaced the discs, pads, hardware on both sides. In the interest of time I didn't show it all though.
i 100% agree about replacing both bearing assemblies, but why on earth would you replace a good functioning caliper? That doesn't make any sense. replace the rotor and pads while you have the assembly off....sure, but not the caliper. How does replacing a functioning caliper provide "max traction control"? Great video though!! 👍
Thank you!! Excellent tutorial!!!😊
You are so welcome!
Great video 💯
Great Video again Ed
Thanks again!
Excellent video, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the great video. How did you get the wheel bearing past the silver part of the backing plate. I am having trouble maneuvering the left and right threaded holes around that silver strip on the inside left of the backing plate.
Good video EdTheOldTechGuy 👍. If I had a Honda I could probably get my Son to work on it. 😊
Right on!
Really well done! Thank you 🙏
You are welcome 😊 I am here to help
Best!!! Hands down!!!!
Thank you!
Great and helpful
Glad I could help
A mechanic asked me for $400 today doing this job. I might need to do it for myself. Thank you.
Hope this helps!
You can also use a 1 1/4” socket and just set the parking brake instead of putting the wheel back on and lowering the vehicle
I just want to mention this to people too, because you may not hear the loud grinding/scraping kind of noise when driving.
In our case, I can't hear THAT, but I can hear what to me is like a slight "dragging" sound. Like the bearings are dry.
BUT, here's the thing, what you might notice, as I discovered today, is that the hub gets BOILING hot. I do mean BOILING!
We were driving today and the stupid tire light came on. It does that now and then and always has. It seemed to be related to large temperature swings, like going from cold winter to warmer spring to hot summer. The light would come on and I'd have to stop the car, pull over, put it in park and push/hold the tire button to make it recalibrate.
But today, it did this twice and of course, the tires are fine.
So on the 2nd time, I thought that I had better check tire pressure. All of them were exactly right.
I also touched each wheel to see how hot it was.
When I got to the last one, rear, right, it was sizzling hot! I wasn't sure if it could have been a seized brake caliper, which can happen or the wheel bearing itself.
So I put a bit of water on the brake caliper. No issue.
But when I poured water onto the hub itself, WOW! It sizzled up bad with major steam. Like leaving a frying pan on the stove, forgetting about it, then throwing water into it to cool it down.
So I'm 90% sure it's the bearing.
Hopefully, watching this video and some more, I might be able to DIY this as I usually fix most of my stuff.
However, I will call the dealer tomorrow to see if this is covered under the Honda extended warranty.
A couple of months ago, they did replace the right, front control arm that was loose where the 2 pieces join with a rubber sleeve.
So perhaps, with luck, this is covered as well.
Fingers crossed! 🤞
Thank you for clear and incredibly well narrated guide.
You're very welcome!
This is the best instructional video I think I have ever seen. You remind me of an old friend, Ron Gonzales in Lamar Colorado. He made everything look so simple and he never fumbled or had anything work differently than he said it would work.
Everything went fine for me until it came time to remove the disk. My disk is not coming off at all. What do you recommend? Never mind, I used a bigger hammer :)
Greetings, and thank you. Ensure your parking break is not engaged, and if not, make sure you engage it and then disenengage it. One thing that can happen is that parking break pads will cause friction on the disc. You may need to adjust it and lesson the pressure. If the issue is rust, let's start with making sure you removed the Phillips screw, next spray any mating surface with penetrating spray or trans fluid. Let it sit for 30 minutes or more. You can then take a heavy ball peen hammer and beat the disc out. Note that this will ruin the disc, so don't plan on reusing it. If all else fails I use a bearing remover claw or you can rent a slide hammer, When desperation has set in I have been known to lightly place the tire and bolts back on, lower the car move it back and forth and raise the car again and comense beating. This breaks any binding rust. All of this try at your own risk. Hope it helps
@@edtheoldtechguy It's off. I was being too gentle with it.
@@thecelticforge Excellent news!
One quick question please. I have hammed old brake drums/disks and to remove them for years and years with no trouble. Why were these so "wonky" after I used my oak hammer to take them off?@@edtheoldtechguy
Do not put the drum hold down screws. Just put a lug nut on hand tight. That will hold the rotor.
Sure that can work but I like to leave things as factory as possible.
Thanks for posting this. I noticed in the description you linked to what appears to be an oem replacement. Do you not recommend an aftermarket hub assembly?
As a DIYer, I want the most compatible parts so I don't run into any surprises that require retrofitting. While more expensive, it saves trouble and time, which makes it worth it. Also, by providing OEM part numbers, it makes it easier for the audience to look the part up. I do use Duralast and other 3rd party parts when it makes sense. For example, duralast gold break pads and rotors with their lifetime warranty is a perfect example of when I go third party vs. OEM. On this part, I suggest OEM to ensure the perfect fit. Thanks for the question.
Hi thank you the video do you have a video with the sound that makes?
because I have 2015 CRV and going above 40mph I star hearing a noise coming from the back I've already checked if the back wheels have any play and they don't I doubt is my wheel bearings
I've seen some videos here and wheel bearings make noise even going at 5mph my doesn't till I get above 40mph.
The bearings on this CRV only made noise on the highway or at speeds higher than local city streets. At high speeds it sounded like a loud rough tire. It was hard to talk to each other in the cabin without raising ones voices. The sound was also described as propeller engine when sitting in the back.
Great video ed but why aint u using the snapon torque wrench u bought
LOL!! Ragin patience videos with it coming soon. Thanks for the compliments, the view, and comment it's truly appreciated.
Wd40?
Left handed drillbits can sure save your bacon 🥓 well at least most of the time, échale ganas Ed
I should have talked about that as well, very good point!
Good job here ed, solid info except for that horrible fright torque wrench,
Millwaukee is your number brand now it looks like
Milwaukee is the brand I am using right now to test the performance myself. I am very impressed with the power you can get with 12v. I am still prodaminantly using Makita for 18v work. Oh and by the way that click torque wrench from Harbor Freight has been my old reliable. It will be replaced here soon though.
@@edtheoldtechguy millwaukee admittedly whoops makita in the 12v line, I have 2 makia cxt saws. Both work well for what i do,And the old model 12vmaxx no longer in production (impacts worth the money especially the 3/8)and (drill not so good). Also makita only has 2 battery sizes 2.0 and 4.0
Well done! But wasn't there a cap on the axle nut?
There was a cap on the rim. At the end of the video, I forgot to show it back on. Good catch. 👍
I have a question about those 2 screws you had to drill out.
First, right now, I have the wheel off of our car so inspect what's causing the boiling hot hub.
One difference that I noticed is that where the one you show has 2 of those screws, ours only has 1 screw.
So my question is, what is the importance of those (or that) screw(s) ??
On this side of the screen, it almost seems like they are used only to "hold" the hub on while you do other work.
Is that is? So if something happens where you have to drill them out and if you don't have new, replacement screws, is it a big deal to install the new hub without that screw? ORRRR is it just a regular screw and if I find one that "fits" then that's ok?
Thanks in advance.
Hi, sounds like you are deep into your DIY project. The screw I drilled out in the video is used in the factory to hold the rotor or disc while they install the caliper holder bracket, caliper, brake hardware and pads. That is the screws only job. Many cars don't even have such screws and a large amount of dealerships never replace the screw on Hondas and Toyotas. It is only, somewhat important when you are replacing breaks to make the install easy. It has no structural importance or significance beyond that. If you like, and if threads are still good. Replace the screw, As an example here are some screws that fit some Hondas: 8-Pack of Rotor Screws for Brake Discs - Universal fit a.co/d/fAoJ3ZK
This may not fit your car so please do your research and make sure to pick the screw that fits your car. I love to do DIY and share with others but please note that as a disclaimer I am not ensuring, garuntee, or warranty anything always make sure to read the disclaimer in the video description.
@@edtheoldtechguy Thanks for that. It is as I suspected then.
Not to worry about disclaimer. I am very aware that there is no guarantee or even a suggestion for people to DIY. Just a guide
As for those particular screws, it appears that they won't fit. On Amazon, there's this
AmazonConfirmedFit
thing, where's I've entered my vehicle info and it does state that these don't fit.
However, cool feature, it offers a link to parts that are confirmed to fit and I'm able to get a package of "assorted" screws.
I'm not too concerned. I'll figure that part out..
My problem in my mind is that I'm still trying to figure out (before taking it all apart) if the bearings are indeed bad
OR
if the problem might be the emergency break pads seized and rubbing the inside of the hub, causing friction and the heat build up.
If I try to turn the wheel/hub by hand, I can turn it but I do hear a definite scraping sound.
Also, the fact that the hub made the water boil off fast with steam, to me, indicates that this may be more likely the problem.
So I may have to just buy all the parts and do a full repair on the bearing assembly (just in case), the emerg. break parts and do a major cleanup on the calipers to make sure they are working well and not binding up.
I'm sure glad that I don't do this kind of work for a living. LOL
Take care.
Got one rear hub on but the hub nut on the driver's side won't budge with my impact or 1/2 breaker ratchet. My impact is a 12v Milwaukee and I'm thinking it's just not powerful enough.
What wont budge the bolts? sometimes the hub sticks and you need a slide hammer
@@edtheoldtechguy Meant to follow up. The hub nut was being problematic, but was because that cordless impact didn't have enough torque. Once I brought out a corded with double the ft. lbs, I was able to remove it with ease. Relieved to get this project done and to have that awful noise alleviated so thank you for the instruction! Replaced the brakes while in there with Raybestos Element3's as well.
By the way, if anyone reads this that has that known rattle at cold startup with certain CR-V years (the consensus seems to be it's an issue with the VTC Actuator), know that changing the oil with Amsoil Signature Series and topping it off with Lucas Oil Additive has suppressed the noise...hope it continues to do so of course. I've read in a few places that some think this issue is due to a lack of adequate oil lubrication in that part and so far so good. Amsoil is expensive but many swear on it.
I worked on the rear wheel bearing hub of my 2013 Honda CRV FWD, it DOES NOT have an axel nut. Is this an AWD version? Might be helpful to make the distinction on the title. Imagine my surprise (the good kind though)😊
This is for sure an AWD! Let me ponder on how or where to make the distinction .... hoping visitors read comments to catch your insights here.
Tf and the mechanic charging me for $400 for it i think ill do it myself thanks for this video man
Of course thats what my channel is here for. Hey do me a favor watch a few more videos and if you like them consider subscribing.
Hi Ed. Is this an AWD?? What the inside size (in mm) of the hub is?
It is a Honda 2013 CRV LX AWD the hub sku 42200-T0A-951 hope this helps you
What socket size is needed to remove the axle nut?
Perhaps I missed it. Next time I work on it I will get the size and comment here.
Is it the same way /process on 2017 crv
I am sure it is very similar
local dealer quoted over $900 to replace one rear hub. Thanks
Oh no! If you can do it, I would try it.
Oh no hell no. I've done one on a Mazda 5
Im sure the hub didn't come out that easy , speaking from experience 😊
It came off that easy. If it had been hard, I would have mentioned it. I have absolutely run into frozen hubs so I understand your statement well.
you didn't replace the wheel bearing. you replaced the hub....
Thank you. I appreciate the feedback. I did replace the Wheel Hub and Bearing assembly, but that's not how YT titles work, unfortunately. You have to pick what most people will search for.
I was a fan of this video until I realized you forgot the most important key element to the video. You never put the center cap back on the rim.....rookie
LOL 😆 dang you are right. I figured it was obvious but I should have mentioned it.
You have to me you really did people was complaining you didn't put the dust cap back on but you did Alright by me again thank you so much I really appreciate what you show me
@@ricochetmyers3594 I was just teasing Ed, he's a good friend of mine
Genuine Honda? Honda does not make its own bearing. They outsource that to several companies to make it for them.
Correct thanks 😊
@edtheoldtechguy I know this because I make bearings for a living and we make not only the hub bearing but transmission and differential bearings as well for Honda.
ive stripped those rotor screws with a hand impact screwdriver 🪛 easy fix with a drill
exactly as in the vid
I have absolutely stripped them which is why I mentioned it in the video LOL!
Excellent video! Thank You
You are welcome!