Great video! I have a 2002 Taurus and I was able to flush mine out with minimal disassembly and I didn’t even have to lift my car. I just took off the air intake/throttle body connector like you did for space. Then I just took off the nut on the driver side mounting bracket of the spider hose assembly and undid the two hoses from the heater core. The whole thing probably took 2 hours total and the hardest part was getting the hoses off and back on the heater core tubes. My heat wasn’t working at all and after pumping about 10, 5 gallon buckets of muddy crap out, it works like new! I didn’t have to replace my spider hose but it would probably not be a bad idea if yours is all rusted up. But definitely a much better alternative to pulling off the dash to replace the heater core.
Dude! I have been 4 months trying to figure the same problem out! Thank you so much for explaining that bypass tubing! I thought I had flushed it already by the same way you thought you had done yours the first time. But I still had the same problem... Thank you so much! And being direct and to-the-point
good video, I did the flush, removed the weird hose by pass assembly as you showed, flushed it and cleaned up the hose connections, flushed the core both ways, I used hose connection I got at the hardware store, can be reused for garden stuff. used a long pry bar to get the hoses disconnected (gently) add a little Vaseline on the hoses to ease the reinstall
if you take a vice-grip and pinch off the bypass hose, you don't have to take everything out of the car. I just did it to my daughters car and it worked great.
Can you just pinch the damn thing and leave it to begin with? I've never understood out of all the Ford vehicles I've owned that the Taurus has a bypass hose. Why not like the foxbody, Upper and lower on heater core directly to upper and lower side of the engine... done . Can you just pinch the damn thing and leave it to begin with?
@@REVerbtalk Maybe they used a lower pressure rated heater core so the engineers added a bypass. Sounds stupid but I've came across things like this. I would just leave it how it is. or pinch it off and see, I'm not a real mechanic.
Dude, u got to pinch off that bypass hose with a pair of small vise grips or a hose pincher from an autoparts store. I flushed my heater core just the other day using the more accessable hoses and I even left the pincher on the bypass after I was done. Now I have much better heat in my '01 Merc Sable.
Great tip!! ...Gotta watch sometime it sends the temp gauge all over the place, so I put everything back to normal on my taurus. They have that by pass for extra engine cooling....some weird design..Heat was hot after all was done!
I wanted to thank you for making this. I have this exact same car. The symptoms are the same as well. Same color too. I wanted to know how i could get to flushing this, but it looks like a similar pain in butt as the spark plugs.
Nathan, good video, however you don't need to remove that terrible hose/tubing conglomeration. All that is necessary is to unhook inlet hose at thermostat housing and outlet hose going to water pump, then clamp off the bypass line so no flush will bypass heater core. I use needle nose vise-grips.
I know this is an old video but if you happen to still check I have a question. If I am able to remove the bypass hose assembly off of each of the heater core pipes can I just hook up a hose directly to the heater core? Then just alternate flushing each heater core pipe until it runs clean? I really enjoy your videos! Thanks a bunch!
I was able to flush the core by loosing the two screws holding the hose brackets in place and then pull the hoses off. I used 6ft of heater hose to flush into a bucket. But great video.
Crud in your heater core is coming from the cooling fluid sitting in the engine block. I would flush the block too (there is a screw you open) and keep flushing the block until the water runs clear. Use distilled water when refilling. You would be amazed how much gunk is sitting in that engine block. It comes from iron oxidation.
I've got a 2003 Taurus SES with 150.000 miles in great shape I stole it from my aunt for 1000. I was unaware of no heat due to it being fall. Right before winter I decided to check the heat it was cold thermostat read open on the gauge so I checked the coolant what a nasty sight so I profit me a flush to find nasty rust an settlement from that point I flushed out the heater core for 10 minutes changed out what I thought was a good thermostat it was bad from the corrosion while I was there I changed the upper radiator hose put it all back together used premium gold antifreeze I've got hot heat. Keep in mind I used blue devil radiator flush after I flushed the heater core an preformed five more flushes with water. I've still got a little settlement I plan on a flush a month till its out. Note drain your antifreeze in a drain pan get your gallon jugs a funnel an a rag to strain the antifreeze to catch the settlement an reuse the antifreeze.
TVWXMAN32 yes very crazy seems ford word correct this problem or recall it. I put my moms 99 Ford Taurus with 63.000 miles in the junkyard due to a cracked block an plugged heater core
I just tried clamping the bypass hose with a vise grip and backflushing the core from the top of the engine using the more accessible hoses (off the water pump and near the water overflow tank)...unfortunately, this core is so plugged up that no water passed thru it at all...I've got a new core ordered and will be installing it.
That is the way to do it, but if it won't unplug because someone put stop leak in it, then you don't have much choice but to replace. They sell smooth jaw clamps or clamping pliers you can clamp the rubber part of the bypass hose with that will more gentle on the hose. Clamp that same hose after you have filled it and test drove to open t-stat. Anytime you drain the cooling cooling on these you can get air trapped in the heater core that won't push out because of the bypass. This is common. You will generally have good heat while driving but then heat will get cooler and cooler while stopped at a light. Clamping the bypass and moving the throttle just a few hundred R's above idle will move more coolant through the heater core and push that air out.
I've been abut 5 years with no heat. They did a flush and thermostat change at the beginning. At one point when I turned the heat on after the car was warmed up I would get warm air for a few seconds. Then cool. I really don't want to change the core on this old car. I may check with mechanic and see if they cleared out those lower hoses. Air still works thank God.
I want to make sure I REVERSE flush the heater core to get more crud out. Which of the 2 heater core hose attachments is "in" & which is "out"?? Thanks
I have a 2000 mercury sable. The lady I bought it from had no issues with her heat until she put radiator stop leak into her leaking radiator. She replaced the radiator and no heat from that point on. There is a bypass hose on the sable but cant you just put voice grips on the bypass hose so you can actually clean out the heater core instead of taking the whole bypass hose off?? Or is it a different bypass hose on a taurus?
Nathan Rohrbough -Yeah, makes ya wonder about that stop leak don’t it?! Better find it another home. I’ve fought my daughters 02 Taurus for a year & it’s one problem after another w/ only 100k.
I tried to read thru all the comments to see what people were flushing with. Just water? I had thought about running some muriatic acid in there and letting it set for a minute or so before rinsing it out with water. The idea it to loosen the hard gunk that's built up on the heater core tubes in order to get a better flush. Back in the 70's, they sold a flush that you would put in your radiator, run the car for a few minutes, then had to flush it with water. It was some kind of acid (perhaps a diluted muriatic acid) that was more aggressive on the calcified buildup.
I'm in Idaho in dead of winter...i have no garden hose to flush the core with power...So how can i flush it out?...Can i use my compressor and air blow it out?
My 96 taurus has the DOHC duratec engine and I never seem to see the coolant system rust that the vulcan engines seem to suffer. My heater core has always worked and every 3 or so years I have changed the coolant and just used a coolant flush for 20 minutes. I use green coolant. I think modern coolant is far less prone to turning into tomato sauce compared to what was the norm when these cars were new. I'm about to do a flush, I run the flush with the thermostat out. I'm changing the thermostat from factory 190 to a 180 so the thermo fans don't engage as much. The problem I have seen with the duratec is the water pump, in the housing there is a restriction plate held on my 4 small metal tabs, if you still have the donut shaped restriction plate then remove it! The small retainer clips do let go over time and then that plate will sit loose scraping against the water pump impeller, potentially getting picked up by the water pump and breaking the housing. If you are finding the heater core gets clogged regularly, then I would be looking at blocking off the bypass hose section, that is happening because there is slow flow in the core. Heater cores can take a lot more pressure than some people realize before they burst. Other cars in the past I have used full garden hose pressure to unblock cores, never had one burst. If it did happen to burst, it's probably the plastic ends. You could get a better aftermarket full aluminum or copper core. A full copper core will not block like factory aluminum ones because they are not designed with very narrow channels but they instead are piped in a series of S bends.
Thanks, I have the same problem with my 2001 Taurus. After flushing the heater core, can that bypass assembly be eliminated and just attach the hoses to the heater core inlet and outlet?
Yea......but......it will cause the temp gauge to go all over the place. (I've tried it also) Your best quest is to acquire the current setting for the tubes etc. You can try it of your current thinking but I think you will be troubled on the out come. A little extra work is probably the right way to achieve your goals. Let us know what you do and the outcome ;)
My blend door works, new cabin air filter, no leaks, coolant full.. Everything works fine. It must be my heater core smh. Blowing cold air. Same make and model!
what do you think my issue could be. i have no heat, only cold even on the heat setting, wasn't Thermostat (replaced it), and the inner/outer heater core hoses are both hot as heck. suspecting it was the blend door actuator it because it wasn't turning. i bench tested the unit by connecting +12 and -12 to the unit to see if it move and it does, opened it and seen no busted motor or plastic gears. but it doesn't work when plugged in by the wire harness on the car. i have a manual selection heating system (knob) to me i think it a petentiameter on the heat/ac selector that has failed that isn't sending the signal and maybe a stuck blend door too??
But if you disconnect the lower radiator hose and put a hose in the fill tank then turn the heater on , the entire system will get flushed, that bypass won't matter since the core is circulating water out
So i'm curious, did your heat not really return because you have a video a few months later flushing it AGAIN, then you install a new heater core, recovery tank, etc. So what's the truth here? Why'd you have to end up doing all that again if this flush worked? Thanks for your response.
After the first flush I had Heat, But after a week or so It started leaking on the floor board/wet area. The only fix at that point was the obvious. I've had 3 Taurus's and they all have had heater core issues.
Ok ok. I also see that it was a white Taurus you did the heater core on. But you did end up having to replace this one as well? Thanks man. Love your videos?
Doing this today to a customers 2000 Taurus SE V6 right now... so he calls the shop & says he put stop leak in it, still not getting heat, so he drops the car off with a gallon of antifreeze & new TStat with gasket. I start the car & let it run & the temp gauge is normal, I think the TStat is working, I’m dragging hoses & buckets out now to perform a flush!! Hopefully this works!!
TVWXMAN32 yes you’re correct!! It was Plugged up, just flushed it out & she’s pumping heat beautifully!! Thanks for posting this video, it was a lot of help today!! Thx for the reply my friend!! Hope you and your family have a great holiday!!
I just did it on my 2001 mercury sable and I was getting no herat and know i get 160 degree heat works great the hose was not clear and now works great thanks saved me a bunch of money. thanks again
It may be pretty diffucult to do but you should be able to change your iso settings/ light settings for the camera on the go while recording! hope this helps!
I got my kid a 2002 ford taurus with 128000 miles on it , I bought it 2 months ago when it was 85 degrees out so we just checked that ac worked , got cold and heat comes on for a minute then gets cool , if you give it gas it gets warmer I'm thinking it's same issue you had . there is rust in antifreeze so I was hoping to flush system whilst I clamp bypass, the car was perfect and we couldn't figure out why they got rid of car. I am guessing no heat in new Hampshire is the reason
Hey that's low miles! Yep...you got crap in the heater core! Your going have to flush it. Do a real good flush the first time so you don't have to do it a 2nd time. It will probably make a huge difference!
TVWXMAN32 thanks , I'm a half ass backyard mechanic so I should be ok getting that out, have you had any issues with serpentine belt , I just changed it because it was making noise and it stopped then started again but only when car it cold ,once it warms up it goes away , I checked all pulleys and tensioner and they look good so I'm wondering if it's a defect with design
So you put a new belt on it? If so then there is bearing bad. You have to take off them pulleys and spin them in your hand to feel if one is bad. Or just use a garden hose...one end to your ear and the other on the pulleys and pinpoint the noise. As for the flush....just take your time....you can do it!
Rockautoparts.com has the hose assembly for $30-35. I have the same problem I'm going to replace heater core, thermostat and hoses since my 02 Taurus has 200,700 miles on it.
You could....but by the time you get clamps on the bypass you would have already took the entire Assembly tube off. Its just was easier to pull the Assembly and flush it! You have no heat?
@@FixingWithPassion a pair of hose pinching pliers would take about 10 seconds to pinch off that by-pass in the middle without doing any disassembly. Then all you have to take off are the two, easy to reach hose clamps. The one near the t-stat housing and the at the other end of that pipe assembly, hook up your garden hose, and viola'.
@@dodgeramsport01 But the bypass is what has flow and its the lower branching lines that feed the heater core that are clogged. By pinching the upper rubber bypass hose you are flushing the clogged problem heater core lines.
I'm a noob here but can't you just use a clamp to pinch of the bypass hose and do the same thing? Seems like alot easier to replace that short hose vs all that work. Granted not needing to replace anything other than that hose?
Not really. I tried it and the hoses have a weird design. You'll be just flushing the engine also. You can try pinching them with vice grips but its not going to be 100%
I know I’m pretty late but I just have a question. Can I simply flush out the coolant system by removing the drain plug, letting it all flow all out, washing the coolant reservoir down with a garden hose until the water flushing out is clear, then simply sealing it from the bottom and adding new antifreeze/coolant in it?
Mind you all of this is preventable if you do your maintenance. I've got a 2002 Sable LS Premium with 65,000 miles on it and I had the coolant flushed and replaced at 50k miles. Every tank, line, and hose looks brand new. Not a piece of anything in it and will do again at 100k. I also had a brake fluid flush and power steering fluid flush done. Every fluid in my vehicle looks brand new including inside my tanks because I get the maintenance done. It's that easy. 20 year old vehicle and tanks and fluids look like off the show room floor. It's a lot but I follow my maintenance schedule. By 150kmiles there are over 80 services. Oh and I also had my transmission fluid flushed at 50k. Not a pan drop but flushed because i did it in time. I didn't wait until it hit 150k and then the bands and clutches rely on that debris to keep clearances and shift ok. Do the dang maintenance on time and your vehicle will last forever. I may be considered picky but I bought my car new and it's still new today because I do ALL maintenance at suggested times. People think these fluids don't break down, brake and power steering fluids constantly under thousands of pounds of pressure and getting forced through tiny holes and hoses. They break down, coolant gets hot and beat to hell too. Do your maintenance folks. I'm watching this video for my parents Ford Taurus that they never service. I force them to bring their car over so I can do their oil and air filter. Keep telling them to get it in to do their valve cover gaskets that are leaking and you can smell the oil burning when it's running. Car only has 68k but sat for a long time and those rubber gaskets get dried out when the fluids and oils don't get rotated over the rubber seals. Great car but they won't take it in and get EVERYTHING replaced (fluids). Also losing transmission fluid and have to continuously add tranny fluid. @4.99/bottle once a week for a year totaling 260$/yr. Should just drop tranny and replace main seal. Kinda bitching but all it takes is maintenance, drives me crazy when people rely so heavily on these things but then just turn key and operate. Read your owner's manual and follow the sheduled service, you'll have a car forever. Especially these 3.0 DOHC or OHV. I have the duratec and love it. Not a single problem. Rotate my tires every oil change and dealer follows recommended services every time i'm in. Also a plus is if I resell it, all my services are recorded on Carfax, every oil change, tire rotation, and dates I bring the car in. Everything they've done is recorded, instead of trusting that the buyer has done all the service I have the proof right online. Another benefit of bringing it into the dealer. That'll add another 1k to my selling price when I sell it too. But my kids will drive this car in 4 years when my oldest gets his license. Then hand me down from there. MAINTENANCE IS KEY!
Yea its really better this way...its almost impossible to get the hoses out of the way to do the flush. But the assembly is not to hard to take out. You can Do it!!
ive flushed my 2006 3.0l 4 times. it dont have a bypass. just cant get fluid to go threw the heater core. tried changing thremostat and many different burping procedures and still cant get it. im going too try lifting the front of the truck in the air as far as i can and try to burp it that way. but i no for sure the heater core isnt bad. ill keep you all posted.
Great video! I have a 2002 Taurus and I was able to flush mine out with minimal disassembly and I didn’t even have to lift my car. I just took off the air intake/throttle body connector like you did for space. Then I just took off the nut on the driver side mounting bracket of the spider hose assembly and undid the two hoses from the heater core. The whole thing probably took 2 hours total and the hardest part was getting the hoses off and back on the heater core tubes. My heat wasn’t working at all and after pumping about 10, 5 gallon buckets of muddy crap out, it works like new! I didn’t have to replace my spider hose but it would probably not be a bad idea if yours is all rusted up. But definitely a much better alternative to pulling off the dash to replace the heater core.
Nice!!
Dude! I have been 4 months trying to figure the same problem out! Thank you so much for explaining that bypass tubing! I thought I had flushed it already by the same way you thought you had done yours the first time. But I still had the same problem... Thank you so much! And being direct and to-the-point
Nice!!
I agree Paul he is a little bit dry on the personality but Yankees are kind of silly however he saved my life!
This is exactly what I need to do as well I'd bet. I didn't do any of this, while swapping my antifreeze. Thank you I can't wait to try
good video, I did the flush, removed the weird hose by pass assembly as you showed, flushed it and cleaned up the hose connections, flushed the core both ways, I used hose connection I got at the hardware store, can be reused for garden stuff. used a long pry bar to get the hoses disconnected (gently) add a little Vaseline on the hoses to ease the reinstall
I did the same to my Sable Wagon. It worked. Got tons of yuck out of it. Too bad the transmission died a year later. Loved that car. So useful.
Nice!!
Good explanations about what you were doing and why. You fussed about the camera but all came out ok. Thanks.
Nice!
Had the same problem and I just clamped off the bypass hose with a set of vice grips, loosely. Much easier.
Thanks Man,
Good informational video. Gonna giver a try ! Stay warm !
Toasty warmth!
if you take a vice-grip and pinch off the bypass hose, you don't have to take everything out of the car. I just did it to my daughters car and it worked great.
Nice.
Can you just pinch the damn thing and leave it to begin with? I've never understood out of all the Ford vehicles I've owned that the Taurus has a bypass hose. Why not like the foxbody, Upper and lower on heater core directly to upper and lower side of the engine... done . Can you just pinch the damn thing and leave it to begin with?
@@REVerbtalk Maybe they used a lower pressure rated heater core so the engineers added a bypass. Sounds stupid but I've came across things like this. I would just leave it how it is. or pinch it off and see, I'm not a real mechanic.
@@REVerbtalk Why couldn't you put a ball valve in the bypass line ?
But that would also leave junk in the bypass! Defeats the purpose!
Dude, u got to pinch off that bypass hose with a pair of small vise grips or a hose pincher from an autoparts store. I flushed my heater core just the other day using the more accessable hoses and I even left the pincher on the bypass after I was done. Now I have much better heat in my '01 Merc Sable.
Great tip!! ...Gotta watch sometime it sends the temp gauge all over the
place, so I put everything back to normal on my taurus. They have that
by pass for extra engine cooling....some weird design..Heat was hot
after all was done!
I was gonna do the same thing to my 97 Taurus. After 3 years do you have any problems?
Having trouble removing the hose smh
I wanted to thank you for making this. I have this exact same car. The symptoms are the same as well. Same color too. I wanted to know how i could get to flushing this, but it looks like a similar pain in butt as the spark plugs.
Yep. Its not fun but, if you car runs great... it worth it. All these taurus's have this issue it seems.
Nathan, good video, however you don't need to remove that terrible hose/tubing conglomeration. All that is necessary is to unhook inlet hose at thermostat housing and outlet hose going to water pump, then clamp off the bypass line so no flush will bypass heater core. I use needle nose vise-grips.
Thanks!
I know this is an old video but if you happen to still check I have a question. If I am able to remove the bypass hose assembly off of each of the heater core pipes can I just hook up a hose directly to the heater core? Then just alternate flushing each heater core pipe until it runs clean? I really enjoy your videos! Thanks a bunch!
Yep. That's a good way to do it!
@@FixingWithPassion Great! Thank you so much for replying!!!!
I was able to flush the core by loosing the two screws holding the hose brackets in place and then pull the hoses off. I used 6ft of heater hose to flush into a bucket. But great video.
Man I've never see so much rust in these cars! Its non stop.
Crud in your heater core is coming from the cooling fluid sitting in the engine block. I would flush the block too (there is a screw you open) and keep flushing the block until the water runs clear. Use distilled water when refilling. You would be amazed how much gunk is sitting in that engine block. It comes from iron oxidation.
Great advice! Thanks!
Thanks for the help and savings :-)
I by passed that hole assembly take off the whole thing and run hoses straight from heater core to the motor
I've got a 2003 Taurus SES with 150.000 miles in great shape I stole it from my aunt for 1000. I was unaware of no heat due to it being fall. Right before winter I decided to check the heat it was cold thermostat read open on the gauge so I checked the coolant what a nasty sight so I profit me a flush to find nasty rust an settlement from that point I flushed out the heater core for 10 minutes changed out what I thought was a good thermostat it was bad from the corrosion while I was there I changed the upper radiator hose put it all back together used premium gold antifreeze I've got hot heat. Keep in mind I used blue devil radiator flush after I flushed the heater core an preformed five more flushes with water. I've still got a little settlement I plan on a flush a month till its out. Note drain your antifreeze in a drain pan get your gallon jugs a funnel an a rag to strain the antifreeze to catch the settlement an reuse the antifreeze.
Good deal! I had to do my expedition 3 times also....crazy isn't it....lol
TVWXMAN32 yes very crazy seems ford word correct this problem or recall it. I put my moms 99 Ford Taurus with 63.000 miles in the junkyard due to a cracked block an plugged heater core
Yankees are kind of silly and this guy's personality is very dry but he is to the point and he saved my life so he's got my vote!
I just tried clamping the bypass hose with a vise grip and backflushing the core from the top of the engine using the more accessible hoses (off the water pump and near the water overflow tank)...unfortunately, this core is so plugged up that no water passed thru it at all...I've got a new core ordered and will be installing it.
Good thing, because middle of December It going to get cold as hell...lol Let us know how it goes!
That is the way to do it, but if it won't unplug because someone put stop leak in it, then you don't have much choice but to replace. They sell smooth jaw clamps or clamping pliers you can clamp the rubber part of the bypass hose with that will more gentle on the hose. Clamp that same hose after you have filled it and test drove to open t-stat. Anytime you drain the cooling cooling on these you can get air trapped in the heater core that won't push out because of the bypass. This is common. You will generally have good heat while driving but then heat will get cooler and cooler while stopped at a light. Clamping the bypass and moving the throttle just a few hundred R's above idle will move more coolant through the heater core and push that air out.
That "sentiment" is bits of head gasket material. Good luck on your constant journey with the water pump, radiator, and heater core
Word!
@@FixingWithPassion Word indeed!
I've been abut 5 years with no heat. They did a flush and thermostat change at the beginning. At one point when I turned the heat on after the car was warmed up I would get warm air for a few seconds. Then cool. I really don't want to change the core on this old car. I may check with mechanic and see if they cleared out those lower hoses. Air still works thank God.
I want to make sure I REVERSE flush the heater core to get more crud out. Which of the 2 heater core hose attachments is "in" & which is "out"?? Thanks
I don't remember been a while...but just reverse the hoses when doing it. You can't go wrong ;)...I'm sure you can google that info...
@Rev. David I've got the same car and have to flush the core.. I'm wondering the same thing.. witch port was the inlet side of the core?
I have a 2000 mercury sable. The lady I bought it from had no issues with her heat until she put radiator stop leak into her leaking radiator. She replaced the radiator and no heat from that point on. There is a bypass hose on the sable but cant you just put voice grips on the bypass hose so you can actually clean out the heater core instead of taking the whole bypass hose off?? Or is it a different bypass hose on a taurus?
👍-thx for video. Those are notorious for blown head gasket. Thx👍
Nice!~
Nathan Rohrbough -Yeah, makes ya wonder about that stop leak don’t it?! Better find it another home. I’ve fought my daughters 02 Taurus for a year & it’s one problem after another w/ only 100k.
I tried to read thru all the comments to see what people were flushing with. Just water? I had thought about running some muriatic acid in there and letting it set for a minute or so before rinsing it out with water. The idea it to loosen the hard gunk that's built up on the heater core tubes in order to get a better flush. Back in the 70's, they sold a flush that you would put in your radiator, run the car for a few minutes, then had to flush it with water. It was some kind of acid (perhaps a diluted muriatic acid) that was more aggressive on the calcified buildup.
I'm in Idaho in dead of winter...i have no garden hose to flush the core with power...So how can i flush it out?...Can i use my compressor and air blow it out?
My 96 taurus has the DOHC duratec engine and I never seem to see the coolant system rust that the vulcan engines seem to suffer. My heater core has always worked and every 3 or so years I have changed the coolant and just used a coolant flush for 20 minutes. I use green coolant. I think modern coolant is far less prone to turning into tomato sauce compared to what was the norm when these cars were new. I'm about to do a flush, I run the flush with the thermostat out. I'm changing the thermostat from factory 190 to a 180 so the thermo fans don't engage as much. The problem I have seen with the duratec is the water pump, in the housing there is a restriction plate held on my 4 small metal tabs, if you still have the donut shaped restriction plate then remove it! The small retainer clips do let go over time and then that plate will sit loose scraping against the water pump impeller, potentially getting picked up by the water pump and breaking the housing. If you are finding the heater core gets clogged regularly, then I would be looking at blocking off the bypass hose section, that is happening because there is slow flow in the core. Heater cores can take a lot more pressure than some people realize before they burst. Other cars in the past I have used full garden hose pressure to unblock cores, never had one burst. If it did happen to burst, it's probably the plastic ends. You could get a better aftermarket full aluminum or copper core. A full copper core will not block like factory aluminum ones because they are not designed with very narrow channels but they instead are piped in a series of S bends.
What size are those red hoses you used to flush the heater core?
5/8" ish
Thanks, I have the same problem with my 2001 Taurus. After flushing the heater core, can that bypass assembly be eliminated and just attach the hoses to the heater core inlet and outlet?
Yea......but......it will cause the temp gauge to go all over the place. (I've tried it also) Your best quest is to acquire the current setting for the tubes etc. You
can try it of your current thinking but I think you will be troubled on the out
come. A little extra work is probably the right way to achieve your
goals. Let us know what you do and the outcome ;)
do not bypass the bypass its there to keep your engine running if your heater core clogs
My blend door works, new cabin air filter, no leaks, coolant full.. Everything works fine. It must be my heater core smh. Blowing cold air. Same make and model!
Yep....
what do you think my issue could be. i have no heat, only cold even on the heat setting, wasn't Thermostat (replaced it), and the inner/outer heater core hoses are both hot as heck. suspecting it was the blend door actuator it because it wasn't turning. i bench tested the unit by connecting +12 and -12 to the unit to see if it move and it does, opened it and seen no busted motor or plastic gears. but it doesn't work when plugged in by the wire harness on the car. i have a manual selection heating system (knob) to me i think it a petentiameter on the heat/ac selector that has failed that isn't sending the signal and maybe a stuck blend door too??
If it makes noise its bad.
@@FixingWithPassion what makes noize, the actuator ??
It looks like it one hose go bad you have to replace all the heater hoses?
No, they are still working.
REPLACE THE RED DEXCOOL WITH THE BASIC OLD GREEN ANTIFREEZE!!
I've done this in the past with no problems at all! 👍
Great tip!
But if you disconnect the lower radiator hose and put a hose in the fill tank then turn the heater on , the entire system will get flushed, that bypass won't matter since the core is circulating water out
What size hose did you use to hook up to the heater core?
5/8" heater hose...
Thank you!
So i'm curious, did your heat not really return because you have a video a few months later flushing it AGAIN, then you install a new heater core, recovery tank, etc. So what's the truth here? Why'd you have to end up doing all that again if this flush worked? Thanks for your response.
After the first flush I had Heat, But after a week or so It started leaking on the floor board/wet area. The only fix at that point was the obvious. I've had 3 Taurus's and they all have had heater core issues.
Ok ok. I also see that it was a white Taurus you did the heater core on. But you did end up having to replace this one as well? Thanks man. Love your videos?
Doing this today to a customers 2000 Taurus SE V6 right now... so he calls the shop & says he put stop leak in it, still not getting heat, so he drops the car off with a gallon of antifreeze & new TStat with gasket. I start the car & let it run & the temp gauge is normal, I think the TStat is working, I’m dragging hoses & buckets out now to perform a flush!! Hopefully this works!!
Sounds like the heater core is done or plugged. I'd put a hand on a heater hose to see if its hot under the hood. If so you know whats up! lol
TVWXMAN32 yes you’re correct!! It was Plugged up, just flushed it out & she’s pumping heat beautifully!! Thanks for posting this video, it was a lot of help today!! Thx for the reply my friend!! Hope you and your family have a great holiday!!
Thanks you too! Stay cool...I mean Warm! haha
I just did it on my 2001 mercury sable and I was getting no herat and know i get 160 degree heat works great the hose was not clear and now works great thanks saved me a bunch of money. thanks again
Great! Glad it worked for you!!
I wonder if you could have just used a hose pinch tool on that bypass hose and would only have had to flush via the heater pipping assembly.
I tried it but there was enough water flow or pressure to do any good.;(
we have a 1997 ford taurus believe its the blend door looking to see how to fix going thur the gloves box- its not the actuator its the door
Ouch....should not be to bad to fix!
It may be pretty diffucult to do but you should be able to change your iso settings/ light settings for the camera on the go while recording! hope this helps!
Thanks. I ended up with a new camera. Much better now ;)
Great video,thank you.
Thanks!
I got my kid a 2002 ford taurus with 128000 miles on it , I bought it 2 months ago when it was 85 degrees out so we just checked that ac worked , got cold and heat comes on for a minute then gets cool , if you give it gas it gets warmer I'm thinking it's same issue you had . there is rust in antifreeze so I was hoping to flush system whilst I clamp bypass, the car was perfect and we couldn't figure out why they got rid of car. I am guessing no heat in new Hampshire is the reason
Hey that's low miles! Yep...you got crap in the heater core! Your going
have to flush it. Do a real good flush the first time so you don't have
to do it a 2nd time. It will probably make a huge difference!
TVWXMAN32 thanks , I'm a half ass backyard mechanic so I should be ok getting that out, have you had any issues with serpentine belt , I just changed it because it was making noise and it stopped then started again but only when car it cold ,once it warms up it goes away , I checked all pulleys and tensioner and they look good so I'm wondering if it's a defect with design
So you put a new belt on it? If so then there is bearing bad. You have to take off them pulleys and spin them in your hand to feel if one is bad. Or just use a garden hose...one end to your ear and the other on the pulleys and pinpoint the noise. As for the flush....just take your time....you can do it!
great video!!!! good detail thanx for the help
Like my 2nd video, take your time flushing, its hard to geat all the crap out of the heater core sometime.
I have no heat but I was gonna change heater core!
Heater works if heat works when comes out!
why did you have to take out that assembly? do you not have enough room to unplug the hose from the core?
You can do it without removing the assembly............... but trust me, there's more room to work in.
Rockautoparts.com has the hose assembly for $30-35. I have the same problem I'm going to replace heater core, thermostat and hoses since my 02 Taurus has 200,700 miles on it.
Common Issue....ugh.
Just make it simple run straight hose's I did and it's blowing hot air with no problems
Nice!~
Ahh dang how did u do it...i think I need that... Thanks either way.... Bless..
could you clamp the bypass then flush it regular way you did first time ?
You could....but by the time you get clamps on the bypass you would have already took the entire
Assembly tube off. Its just was easier to pull the Assembly and flush it! You have no heat?
@@FixingWithPassion a pair of hose pinching pliers would take about 10 seconds to pinch off that by-pass in the middle without doing any disassembly. Then all you have to take off are the two, easy to reach hose clamps. The one near the t-stat housing and the at the other end of that pipe assembly, hook up your garden hose, and viola'.
@@miabroberg8611 But that would also leave junk in the bypass! Defeats the purpose!
@@dodgeramsport01 But the bypass is what has flow and its the lower branching lines that feed the heater core that are clogged. By pinching the upper rubber bypass hose you are flushing the clogged problem heater core lines.
@@deezdrama bypass should be properly cleaned also! Not half assed!
Mine's a 05 3.0. Engine looks exact. Same problem no heat.😞
O no!~~~
I'm a noob here but can't you just use a clamp to pinch of the bypass hose and do the same thing? Seems like alot easier to replace that short hose vs all that work. Granted not needing to replace anything other than that hose?
Is there any way to pinch off the bypass line during a flush?
Not really. I tried it and the hoses have a weird design. You'll be
just flushing the engine also. You can try pinching them with vice grips
but its not going to be 100%
I know I’m pretty late but I just have a question. Can I simply flush out the coolant system by removing the drain plug, letting it all flow all out, washing the coolant reservoir down with a garden hose until the water flushing out is clear, then simply sealing it from the bottom and adding new antifreeze/coolant in it?
Yea you can...but it might not be to effective on the Heater core...But try it and see, It can't hurt ;)
TVWXMAN32 thanks for the quick reply!
Did it work?
Mind you all of this is preventable if you do your maintenance. I've got a 2002 Sable LS Premium with 65,000 miles on it and I had the coolant flushed and replaced at 50k miles. Every tank, line, and hose looks brand new. Not a piece of anything in it and will do again at 100k. I also had a brake fluid flush and power steering fluid flush done. Every fluid in my vehicle looks brand new including inside my tanks because I get the maintenance done. It's that easy. 20 year old vehicle and tanks and fluids look like off the show room floor. It's a lot but I follow my maintenance schedule. By 150kmiles there are over 80 services. Oh and I also had my transmission fluid flushed at 50k. Not a pan drop but flushed because i did it in time. I didn't wait until it hit 150k and then the bands and clutches rely on that debris to keep clearances and shift ok. Do the dang maintenance on time and your vehicle will last forever. I may be considered picky but I bought my car new and it's still new today because I do ALL maintenance at suggested times. People think these fluids don't break down, brake and power steering fluids constantly under thousands of pounds of pressure and getting forced through tiny holes and hoses. They break down, coolant gets hot and beat to hell too. Do your maintenance folks. I'm watching this video for my parents Ford Taurus that they never service. I force them to bring their car over so I can do their oil and air filter. Keep telling them to get it in to do their valve cover gaskets that are leaking and you can smell the oil burning when it's running. Car only has 68k but sat for a long time and those rubber gaskets get dried out when the fluids and oils don't get rotated over the rubber seals. Great car but they won't take it in and get EVERYTHING replaced (fluids). Also losing transmission fluid and have to continuously add tranny fluid. @4.99/bottle once a week for a year totaling 260$/yr. Should just drop tranny and replace main seal. Kinda bitching but all it takes is maintenance, drives me crazy when people rely so heavily on these things but then just turn key and operate. Read your owner's manual and follow the sheduled service, you'll have a car forever. Especially these 3.0 DOHC or OHV. I have the duratec and love it. Not a single problem. Rotate my tires every oil change and dealer follows recommended services every time i'm in. Also a plus is if I resell it, all my services are recorded on Carfax, every oil change, tire rotation, and dates I bring the car in. Everything they've done is recorded, instead of trusting that the buyer has done all the service I have the proof right online. Another benefit of bringing it into the dealer. That'll add another 1k to my selling price when I sell it too. But my kids will drive this car in 4 years when my oldest gets his license. Then hand me down from there. MAINTENANCE IS KEY!
Was your oil light on ?
Red
Do you have to take the entire assembly off in order to get the hoses off the heater core? Plan on using this video to help this weekend.
Yea its really better this way...its almost impossible to get the hoses
out of the way to do the flush. But the assembly is not to hard to take
out. You can Do it!!
ive flushed my 2006 3.0l 4 times. it dont have a bypass. just cant get fluid to go threw the heater core. tried changing thremostat and many different burping procedures and still cant get it. im going too try lifting the front of the truck in the air as far as i can and try to burp it that way. but i no for sure the heater core isnt bad. ill keep you all posted.
You said "truck" ...what kind of vehicle are you trying to do this to?
If you would have just used a pair of vice gripes to close off the bypass hose and just flushed with air or a water hose would have been fast and easy
Just clamp off the bypass hose. Then you wouldn't need to climb under there and disconnect the other hoses. Just a thought. Work smart not hard.
Would this work on my 2000 ford Taurus ses?
yes!
TVWXMAN32 cool. was it hard? it looked like it was just time.
Matthew Parker Yea it was time.
TVWXMAN32 I gotta flush my heater core again and your video is how i am going to do it cuz i hate that bypass hose.
Matthew Parker... Yea it's well worth removing it. It pretty easy to do. Gives you more room😄
The people I know so hard uo for money they will say you need a heater core.onlybjust a heater core flush
Yea right on....bigg rippoffs.
we block the by-pass right off the bat!
as in remove the hose install a 5/8 plug and reinstall hose ! some of the later u code taurus's dont use a heater by-pass at all
Cool....Watch your temp gauge! I did that and my temp was all over the place!...Some weird cooling setup for the engine. But I hope it works for you!
That's good to know!
you can drill an 1/8 inch hole in the 5/8 plug.... as a bleed on the bypass hose....
charlie c thanks for the info.
Was about to say lol clamp that damn hose dummy!!
Why do people always have to over explain things it's no wonder there's so many dislikes on videos
Free content...some people are never happy....lol