OK so I left something out. Be very careful when you test drive a car. If you don’t get any heat coming out in the dash (defrost) when the car is full temp. That could be a bad heater core - that has been plugged up with massive amounts of stop leak. Stop leak could definitely help plug up a leaking heater core so you don’t get either symptoms of ‘steam up’ inside your window or radiator fluid straight leaking onto your car on the carpet from under the dash. Check for heat and usually you can smell the radiator fluid in the car- bad signs. But if your car has no heat for defrost, as soon as it rains or gets cold outside or foggy when you don’t have heat going up to defrost that Window, you literally cannot see out the front window of your car, You will not be able to drive in the rain or cold or fog because- if you don’t have a way to direct heated air up onto that driver window to get rid of the condensation inside it just makes it impossible to see Some cars, it’s only an hour or so to get that heater core out. Look it up on TH-cam or whatever. It’s an eight hour job to take the heater core out of a Chevy Malibu - so that’s like a $1200 repair That’s how I got one of the nicest Chevy Malibu’s I’ve ever seen for so cheap But when it started raining, a few months later, I couldn’t even drive the car I had to pull over and wipe the interior window as we drove to see out. I bought it, but never Cleaned that radiator / coolant system. After I did, the heater core started to leak bad. That’s when I found out for that vehicle the entire dash has to come off to access the heater core! That’s why the guy sold it cheap. Anyway- something to check, does it put out heat and does it blow up to the defrost. Leaks can show up after you clean a radiator from rust or stop leak being removed. Also, the particles of rust can plug up the thermostat so always replace it at a flush. Also, the Taurus reservoir tank can sometimes get the pathways plugged inside the metal tubes inside the plastic bcuz the particles block flow. So if the reservoir tank is overflowing you can remove and drain it or take out the tiny metal tubes in the plastic - you see them if you look. Rust debris flowing around can get in there loosened from a flush but still in the system.
youtube On these Vulcan engine Tauruses it is even easier and faster to disconnect the hose on the lower passenger side of the radiator. You don't need to remove the shield or anything. There are youtube videos posted on this procedure. Very easy and quick to disconnect, drain, and reconnect.
I have flipped between 50-70 of these models 96-07. IDK about your approach for how I do it. I run water into the Fill Container while removing and replacing the screw in plug after draining it and refilling it multiple times. Then, I put my cleaner / chemical in, run it for 100 miles or so, and repeat the procedure. Then, I put in my fresh radiator fluid after the final draining. So, I do a very thorough cleaning because I know most people will not and I want this repair / maintenance to last many years. Removing and replacing a hose necessarily involves putting the hose back on, which if you're only draining it once, sure. But, I will literally drain it between 4 to 10 times to ensure all the junk is removed. Once in a while, I will do a reverse flow if the Heater Core is plugged up. Usually, the Heater Core is plugged if someone put in some 'radiator stop leak' chemical / product, in which case it might start leaking again. In which case, I will still do a very thorough cleaning, even more so. Then, use a high quality 'radiator stop leak' after I'm done and it usually seals up fine. But, a plugged radiator core can mean loss of defogging ability and that can result in not being able to see out the front window when it's cold, foggy, or esp raining. Also, some cars require removal of the dash board to access the heater core and that's not a dyi job. You can usually "see" radiator stop leak if you check the container / remove the radiator cap because it's sometimes floating on the surface. Not a deal breaker, but it could be a sign the car has overheated, in which case there could be other more serious problems like a "patched up" Head Gasket. Or, an about to go Head Gasket from overheating. A product Steel Seal if used exactly as manufacturer suggestion, not Scotty Kilmer's suggestions, is helpful if there is no water in the oil from a blown head gasket. Steel Seal will actually answer the phone, and answer your questions and it's not applied like Scotty says. Blue Devil or some other products are, but not Steel Seal, which is liquid glass, and can be worth a try.
@@stevebutler812 why do you flip these cars? Just curious . It seems like many are neglected and of course these cars require a bit more maintenance than say a honda or toyota but they can be good cars.
can I fill it with the pre-mixed Prestone coolant/anti-freeze? (If I’m not flushing) or do I need to drop in anti-freeze and mix is with water afterwards
Yes. Premix is fine. I just rather buy the non-diluted stuff because it’s not that much more for 100% antifreeze. If you’re not flushing the system, or at least draining the system and refilling it, then your recirculating microscopic chunks of rusted metal, and other things that will circulate, pass the pump and wear out the pump and components sooner. Like every 50,000 or fewer years a flush is good. The antifreeze loses its ability to work, but the wearing away of material and build up of rust causes problems. Also, a higher end car- probably premix is good because it’s not tap-water from a hose but chemically more balanced.
Should catch that antifreeze from the radiator. Gets in the groundwater easily and the water company doesn't use chemicals to remove it. Also, if it's left to puddle up on the ground, pets will lap it up. I lost a dog of eight years, when it found my neighbor's leaking radiator hose. Rushed it to the Vet, but still had to put it down.
You are correct. The chemicals in there are poisonous, and dangerous. That flush is just water and the cleaner chemical. I actually drain and refill the radiator multiple times before I put in the cleaner, then run the car at least 40-100 miles with cleaner. Not a few people who are aware of the "sweet" taste radiator fluid allegedly has use it as a poison to actually attract and kill animals, esp feral cats. So, yeah, you are correct. Sorry for your dog. You'd think the companies that make it could easily add some chemical that is harmless to cars but repels animals? Or, invent an 'animal safe' radiator fluid? There's a million dollar idea for ya.
What a bad idea. Now you have a mess all over the inside of the splash guard. You also created a route for objects to fly through, all to save two or three minutes taking out 9 screws. Yes, you could wash down the splash guard from the top. But that would take longer than the screws and you don't put rusty nasty fluid all over everything. Have fun with that.
@@BIGTBBQ316 Those shields are kind of cosmetic imo. It’s extra time to remove and I usually throw them out. But, this saves me taking it off and it’s easier imo for me to
First, I’m in California, so I was probably fucking high- not probably. But I think I’ve worked on at least 50 or 60 Tauruses. They are so unpredictable because once you clean the transmission fluid, you risk a car that has a slipping transmission And I’ve seen bad transmissions on these Tauruses and sables with less than 50,000 miles But if it wasn’t for the transmissions man, they’re actually decent cars But those tables right there especially the LS in the LS premium sometimes have a little thing on the side of the seat where you adjust the seat, but it just the pedals the brake and gas pedals forward and backwards Disable has a way better suspension system at rides. Super quieter. I shouldn’t say I’ve gotten a sable up over to 130 I think but it handled fantastic. It was the GS know the LS premium or the LS I can’t remember which one better fucking flew Anyway, the sound system the superior sound system inside of a sable is just fantastic If none of the speakers are blown, or you can put the scorpions, or you could do UFO lights out or you could do Eddie Van Halen evolution I mean so many songs you just hear such a crisp sound with their upgraded sound system So yeah it’s a it’s a fun car but I probably done that same routine to at least 75 of those models The transmission is just the deathknell of so many stables
@@stevebutler812 I'm about to change the fluid and filter on my 2001 Taurus I just purchased. It has 120,000 miles on the clock. When I check the fluid on the dipstick it looks clean and smells good. I get old fluid can add a bit of 'girp' on worn clutches, but is there a chance it could slip afterwards if the transmission feels and shifts fine right now?
Great video thanks for the info! 🎉🎉
Thermostat replacement step by step for Vulcan engine
th-cam.com/video/FytpC0kR3sc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=WU2GSo1IXAYq_dZO
OK so I left something out. Be very careful when you test drive a car. If you don’t get any heat coming out in the dash (defrost) when the car is full temp. That could be a bad heater core - that has been plugged up with massive amounts of stop leak.
Stop leak could definitely help plug up a leaking heater core so you don’t get either symptoms of ‘steam up’ inside your window or radiator fluid straight leaking onto your car on the carpet from under the dash.
Check for heat and usually you can smell the radiator fluid in the car- bad signs.
But if your car has no heat for defrost, as soon as it rains or gets cold outside or foggy when you don’t have heat going up to defrost that Window, you literally cannot see out the front window of your car,
You will not be able to drive in the rain or cold or fog because- if you don’t have a way to direct heated air up onto that driver window to get rid of the condensation inside it just makes it impossible to see
Some cars, it’s only an hour or so to get that heater core out.
Look it up on TH-cam or whatever.
It’s an eight hour job to take the heater core out of a Chevy Malibu - so that’s like a $1200 repair
That’s how I got one of the nicest Chevy Malibu’s I’ve ever seen for so cheap
But when it started raining, a few months later, I couldn’t even drive the car I had to pull over and wipe the interior window as we drove to see out.
I bought it, but never Cleaned that radiator / coolant system. After I did, the heater core started to leak bad.
That’s when I found out for that vehicle the entire dash has to come off to access the heater core! That’s why the guy sold it cheap.
Anyway- something to check, does it put out heat and does it blow up to the defrost.
Leaks can show up after you clean a radiator from rust or stop leak being removed.
Also, the particles of rust can plug up the thermostat so always replace it at a flush.
Also, the Taurus reservoir tank can sometimes get the pathways plugged inside the metal tubes inside the plastic bcuz the particles block flow. So if the reservoir tank is overflowing you can remove and drain it or take out the tiny metal tubes in the plastic - you see them if you look. Rust debris flowing around can get in there loosened from a flush but still in the system.
youtube On these Vulcan engine Tauruses it is even easier and faster to disconnect the hose on the lower passenger side of the radiator. You don't need to remove the shield or anything. There are youtube videos posted on this procedure. Very easy and quick to disconnect, drain, and reconnect.
I have flipped between 50-70 of these models 96-07. IDK about your approach for how I do it. I run water into the Fill Container while removing and replacing the screw in plug after draining it and refilling it multiple times. Then, I put my cleaner / chemical in, run it for 100 miles or so, and repeat the procedure. Then, I put in my fresh radiator fluid after the final draining. So, I do a very thorough cleaning because I know most people will not and I want this repair / maintenance to last many years. Removing and replacing a hose necessarily involves putting the hose back on, which if you're only draining it once, sure. But, I will literally drain it between 4 to 10 times to ensure all the junk is removed. Once in a while, I will do a reverse flow if the Heater Core is plugged up. Usually, the Heater Core is plugged if someone put in some 'radiator stop leak' chemical / product, in which case it might start leaking again. In which case, I will still do a very thorough cleaning, even more so. Then, use a high quality 'radiator stop leak' after I'm done and it usually seals up fine. But, a plugged radiator core can mean loss of defogging ability and that can result in not being able to see out the front window when it's cold, foggy, or esp raining. Also, some cars require removal of the dash board to access the heater core and that's not a dyi job. You can usually "see" radiator stop leak if you check the container / remove the radiator cap because it's sometimes floating on the surface. Not a deal breaker, but it could be a sign the car has overheated, in which case there could be other more serious problems like a "patched up" Head Gasket. Or, an about to go Head Gasket from overheating. A product Steel Seal if used exactly as manufacturer suggestion, not Scotty Kilmer's suggestions, is helpful if there is no water in the oil from a blown head gasket. Steel Seal will actually answer the phone, and answer your questions and it's not applied like Scotty says. Blue Devil or some other products are, but not Steel Seal, which is liquid glass, and can be worth a try.
@@stevebutler812 why do you flip these cars? Just curious . It seems like many are neglected and of course these cars require a bit more maintenance than say a honda or toyota but they can be good cars.
can I fill it with the pre-mixed Prestone coolant/anti-freeze? (If I’m not flushing) or do I need to drop in anti-freeze and mix is with water afterwards
Yes. Premix is fine. I just rather buy the non-diluted stuff because it’s not that much more for 100% antifreeze.
If you’re not flushing the system, or at least draining the system and refilling it, then your recirculating microscopic chunks of rusted metal, and other things that will circulate, pass the pump and wear out the pump and components sooner. Like every 50,000 or fewer years a flush is good.
The antifreeze loses its ability to work, but the wearing away of material and build up of rust causes problems.
Also, a higher end car- probably premix is good because it’s not tap-water from a hose but chemically more balanced.
Should catch that antifreeze from the radiator. Gets in the groundwater easily and the water company doesn't use chemicals to remove it. Also, if it's left to puddle up on the ground, pets will lap it up. I lost a dog of eight years, when it found my neighbor's leaking radiator hose. Rushed it to the Vet, but still had to put it down.
You are correct. The chemicals in there are poisonous, and dangerous. That flush is just water and the cleaner chemical. I actually drain and refill the radiator multiple times before I put in the cleaner, then run the car at least 40-100 miles with cleaner. Not a few people who are aware of the "sweet" taste radiator fluid allegedly has use it as a poison to actually attract and kill animals, esp feral cats. So, yeah, you are correct. Sorry for your dog. You'd think the companies that make it could easily add some chemical that is harmless to cars but repels animals? Or, invent an 'animal safe' radiator fluid? There's a million dollar idea for ya.
Same thing but different video of me cutting an access hole-
th-cam.com/video/vL9Ju6LqYjc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1qLB7GY0AZI-r7eb
What a bad idea. Now you have a mess all over the inside of the splash guard. You also created a route for objects to fly through, all to save two or three minutes taking out 9 screws. Yes, you could wash down the splash guard from the top. But that would take longer than the screws and you don't put rusty nasty fluid all over everything. Have fun with that.
@@BIGTBBQ316 Those shields are kind of cosmetic imo. It’s extra time to remove and I usually throw them out. But, this saves me taking it off and it’s easier imo for me to
You sound a little tired.Did this car give you hell?
First, I’m in California, so I was probably fucking high- not probably. But I think I’ve worked on at least 50 or 60 Tauruses.
They are so unpredictable because once you clean the transmission fluid, you risk a car that has a slipping transmission
And I’ve seen bad transmissions on these Tauruses and sables with less than 50,000 miles
But if it wasn’t for the transmissions man, they’re actually decent cars
But those tables right there especially the LS in the LS premium sometimes have a little thing on the side of the seat where you adjust the seat, but it just the pedals the brake and gas pedals forward and backwards
Disable has a way better suspension system at rides. Super quieter.
I shouldn’t say I’ve gotten a sable up over to 130 I think but it handled fantastic. It was the GS know the LS premium or the LS I can’t remember which one better fucking flew
Anyway, the sound system the superior sound system inside of a sable is just fantastic
If none of the speakers are blown, or you can put the scorpions, or you could do UFO lights out or you could do Eddie Van Halen evolution I mean so many songs you just hear such a crisp sound with their upgraded sound system
So yeah it’s a it’s a fun car but I probably done that same routine to at least 75 of those models
The transmission is just the deathknell of so many stables
@@stevebutler812 I had the tranny in my Taurus rebuilt two years ago. They said they updated the flaws. Do you think it will last for a good while?
@@stevebutler812 I'm about to change the fluid and filter on my 2001 Taurus I just purchased. It has 120,000 miles on the clock. When I check the fluid on the dipstick it looks clean and smells good. I get old fluid can add a bit of 'girp' on worn clutches, but is there a chance it could slip afterwards if the transmission feels and shifts fine right now?