How to Remove a 1KZ-TE Cylinder Head (HD) | 1KZ HILUX REBUILD EP01
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video I remove the cyclinder head from my 1KZ Toyota Hilux with out removing the entire engine
This is the beggining of a full engine rebuild series.
1KZTE Engine Repair Manual:
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0:00 Start
1:23 Getting Organised For big Jobs
3:05 Accessories Removal
5:50 Timing Kit Removal
8:06 Inlet Manifold Removal
9:08 Exhaust Manifold Removal
11:25 Head Bolt Removal Sequence
13:24 Assessing the Damage - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
awesome video.. i wish all the mechanical videos were this clear and explained easily. music suits the work too! keep making videos yeew
Thanks a lot! Plenty more to come 😀
Looking forward to your finished block !!
Thanks for watching!
Doing same right now finally someone did a video
Hope you find it useful!
Great video! Thanks from USA
Thanks for watching from Australia
Bloody good to see more decent vids good stuff mate
Plenty more coming! Cheers mate
@@dingeldiy awsome
Fantastic video!
Cheers Tim!
This video is amazing thankyou
Glad you like it!
Thanks to share that!
No problem!
Great video. Out if interest how many Kay’s was on this engine for it to have low compression. Cheers
I'm not sure
I bought it second hand and long story short it had low compression when I bought it. I installed it. Lived with it for a year and then ripped it out and made this video series
Hope you’re still commenting on this. I’m about todo a year down to replace my head gasket And overhaul on my Kzj71. When you put the head bolts back in, did you need to tighten them back down again after 500kilometers of driving?
I did not. There is no way to know what the torque setting is supposed to be anyway because of that last 90 degree tightening sequence that you're meant to do when you install the head.
I've got a 96 hilux surf kzn185 and it might have a worn head gasket. Only just started a week ago, but it starts rough sometimes then runs completely fine. It's like there's hardly any compression at the start and it builds up slowly until the truck hits idle. But yesterday after I put new coolant in it, I noticed white smoke coming out the exhaust, it then stopped and started doing it again. And the radiator fluid started spitting every now and again, when the cap was off when warming up. Does this sound like a faulty gasket?
maybe, do a compression test, and check for bubbles in the radiator and excessive crankcase pressure just to be sure
I watched this video as guidance and also battled getting the intake and exhaust manifold off in situ. Then it dawned on me, why not just undo the turbo, along with all wiring plugs and piping, and just remove the entire head assembly?! It is then a simple matter to disassemble the head on the workbench. After battling with the EGR pipe behind the turbo and stuffing up the nut, I did just that! A lot less strain and time spent on disassembly!
Awesome tip. Taking off the head doesn't need to be so scary and I reckon for the cost of a head gasket and some head bolts it's totally worth it when you can save time and frustration.
Some people have said bubbling in the overflow tank or radiator is normal, it’s not, if you have this your head gasket has failed or head has cracks, I had oil in coolant but no coolant in oil, some smoke but continuing to run a vehicle with this will do damage best to pull the head, thanks for the video!! 👍
Thanks for the smart advice! Have you been working on Toyotas for long?
@@dingeldiy Where did you buy your cylinder head?…what make?… and how much did you pay?…cheers mate
Toyota’s no but have done many a cylinder head on various 4 pot diesel lumps in various truck platforms and the symptoms are largely the same, the viscous fan is what kills the 1kz head that and the slow to react temp gauge, I always advise people to fit an aftermarket coolant temp gauge for back up, digital units are far far more accurate, and are very cheap nowadays and great reassurance, further from that a thermostatic fan kit is the ultimate option, I have the SSRG hilux gen 3 surf sold here in the uk, it has an auto trans so any issues with cooling become a bigger issue very quickly due to the trans adding head to the equation via the heat exchanger in the bottom of the radiator I shall be replacing my viscous for a fan kit at some point, I did this on my Ranger 2.5 and was very surprised at the extra pep it had not driving the fan
Toyota’s no but have done many a cylinder head on various 4 pot diesel lumps in various truck platforms and the symptoms are largely the same, the viscous fan is what kills the 1kz head that and the slow to react temp gauge, I always advise people to fit an aftermarket coolant temp gauge for back up, digital units are far far more accurate, and are very cheap nowadays and great reassurance, further from that a thermostatic fan kit is the ultimate option, I have the SSRG hilux gen 3 surf sold here in the uk, it has an auto trans so any issues with cooling become a bigger issue very quickly due to the trans adding head to the equation via the heat exchanger in the bottom of the radiator I shall be replacing my viscous for a fan kit at some point, I did this on my Ranger 2.5 and was very surprised at the extra pep it had not driving the fan
that damage on the head and valve would have been a broken glow plug. i just put a new head on my 1kz-te and two glow plug tips snapped off inside the combustion chamber. be weary when reusing old glow plugs. i learnt that the hard way.
Good tip!
what make of cylinder head did you use where you buy from and how much please mate?…cheers
Second hand Toyota head is what I used but I also have a brand new AMC head in storage if anything goes wrong again. I got that from my local machine shop
I know you did this ages ago but there should be plenty of piston to valve clearance when theres damage from minor artefacts in the combustion chamber for it to not be a concern, it would be odd if there was any metal that went through there unless the engine grenaded then you'd know that. So was likely just a chunk of carbon hard enough to do a bit of damage. The metallurgy of these motors is pretty outdated as far as alloys/strengths are concerned. They wouldn't hold a candle to your average diesel built today, even though theyre still great engines.
Totally agree but in this situation the tip of a glow plugs broke off and caused damage to the valve itself. Yes I could have fixed the valve but it was cheaper to use my second hand head that I already had at home.
Still going strong today
Thanks for watching!
Im from the US and Ive got a KZN130 with a 1KZ that I imported from Japan. The head is cracked. Any idea where I should purchase a new one? I've heard eBay heads are ok but was just seeing if you had some knowledge I don't
I know of AMC brand heads that people see to use but its best to talk to your preffered machine shop!
@@dingeldiy yeah ive heard the AMC heads are good but no one will ship one overseas. ah yes the joys of owning a foreign car.
may i know what manual you used? or the book for your reference?
haynes.com/en-au/toyota/hilux/1997-2005?gclid=CjwKCAjw_JuGBhBkEiwA1xmbRZBL84C3orLkSkZ3BYDQaKCfiryWNh3n-0jNKc-1AsQiLM9UWK5VUhoCd7wQAvD_BwE
the koran
Hey bro I also got 1kz Im haveing a problem with it will go help me out withit
Whats the issue/symptoms?
How many ks do these motors do seem to be always been fixed ? a bit of a lemon for Toyota ? Toyota petrol engines have been very reliable for me ,like my 2rze hiace and camry
any diesel should have its fuel system refurbished especially the pump after 300,000kms. if this is done these engines will last min 600,000 kms and max 1,000,000kms. bad fueling = heat, too many mods without supporting mods = heat
Too much heat = 1kz rebuild
if you have one of these and want to get more power…for anyone interested this is the route i took on mine a 2004 Hilux Odometer 258000k’s…3 inch exhaust…got the EGR and inlet manifold cleaned out…(just those two steps alone and you’ll feel benefits straight away) then off to the tuners… Steinbauer Chip with additional ECU top up tune…new glow plugs..new injectors…while getting the top up tune i also got an EGR delete (not the blocking plate i got them to delete it at the ECU) also included in the top up tune i had the boost turned up to 16psi with ‘dongle’ and added a boost controller to keep everything in check and just to be safe i got a new clutch fan hub installed…..thats it…no intercooler… stock standard radiator…its safe…no overheating no engine lights come on…been to Perth and back to Sydney 3 times since…on one trip back from Perth DID NOT SHUT IT DOWN ONCE…even when pulling in for fuel and didn’t burn a drop of oil…just want to give a shout out to JC Diesel in Narellan…for the tune.
Hei bro my help me pls
how can i help?