How to Assemble a 3D Printer Extruder Nozzle (Stop the Leak!)

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ธ.ค. 2019
  • If you have a leaky 3D printer nozzle, then you'll want to try this method to fix it.
    Tools you need:
    - Vice Grip: amzn.to/2OZvKGh
    - Socket Wrench: amzn.to/2Yvj5Or
    - Various sockets: amzn.to/2Yvj5Or
    3D printer components:
    - Heat Block: amzn.to/2YzBf1L
    - Heat Break: amzn.to/2LqtdTp
    - Nozzle: amzn.to/38gUfWS
    Here's a set: amzn.to/2YzBf1L
    You can also read the full tutorial on my blog:
    www.learnrobotics.org/blog/an...
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  • วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี

ความคิดเห็น • 20

  • @Deneteus
    @Deneteus 4 ปีที่แล้ว +23

    You can't tighten the nozzle down cold. You have to back it off a smidge cold and then tighten it hot. Check the E3D hotend build instructions for details.

  • @jasonhanson6563
    @jasonhanson6563 2 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    Straight to the point, love it.

  • @YaMaNSahiN
    @YaMaNSahiN 8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    it seems like you have fixed my problem 3 year ago. Thank you :)

  • @alcidesmarcano
    @alcidesmarcano ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you so much for sharing this video, was so useful for me. I was strugling with layer shifting for a couple of days on my KP5L and I was doing everything until found this video... You make my day, Thanks again Liz...

  • @NeilAtkinson3
    @NeilAtkinson3 10 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

    Thank you Liz. I learned some valuable knowledge here.

  • @pennerbert1721
    @pennerbert1721 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Thanks for the video,
    As someone who knows that metal expands when heated, I don't understand why everywhere else recommends tightening the nozzle when it's hot. If it's tightened when it's hot, it will be loose when it cools because the metal will decrease, right? No one is saying to tighten the nozzle to 20nm when cold, just tight enough to get a good fit without forcing it.

  • @elisabethgrc
    @elisabethgrc ปีที่แล้ว

    Good instruction, I use your method and recheck it once again when the nozzle is hot.

  • @onestopfabshop3224
    @onestopfabshop3224 10 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    I had a small leak no matter what I did. So I ended up "lapping" the mating surface of the nozzle and the mating surface of the heat break where they meet with 1000 grit wet sanding paper and that finally took care of it. I don't think the surfaces were fine enough to seal. Thanks for sharing.

  • @hammerfallen12345
    @hammerfallen12345 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Deneteus are correct about that...i didn't use this manual i experience this myself when i tighten the brass nozzle cold...after that it leaked. It took me awhile to figure out why it was leaking. It must be because metals expanding differently. Maybe it works with one type of nozzle but when you use another type for example brass nozzle it will maybe not work because the other metals are not close enough when all metal expands. Maybe bad quality metal can be the problem to? But i'm recommending to check the nozzle regularly. Maybe it stays put but as all nuts and bolts it can loosen with time.

  • @rickharrisbrmob4218
    @rickharrisbrmob4218 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Your hint solved the oozing here. The Bowden type needed to replace the internal PTFE tube that was a little burned at its point causing the leak. And I had to handle with the hotend at PLA temperature, it's not working cold. Thank you.

  • @donniem7979
    @donniem7979 7 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    So mine is actually leaking above the heat block you have there … the other part you tightened onto the block to meet the printer nozzle is where I’m getting back spittle up from there whether I do it Hot or Cold tighten… did I just get sent a bad heat unit ? I haven’t seen anyone with my issue in hundreds of videos lol

    • @tarahgudmundson3532
      @tarahgudmundson3532 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

      mine is doing the same. Have you figured it out?

    • @donniem7979
      @donniem7979 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@tarahgudmundson3532 from what I could put together I needed to detach the entire tube zone and print nozzle... make this little half inch bowden tube bit... force it down... then attach the regular one... left a smidge of a hairline gap when screwing in the nozzle then jammed the small tube bit in... followed by the regular distribution tube... held it in as hard as I could and attached that grip at the top to lock it in... then tightly screwed the nozzle in... all while the damn hot end was active lol had to be very careful.... and had to make sure the print nozzle kept the gap at the bottom but was snug to the tubes inside... otherwise it has some weird leak issue... someone on another video said theres a Bi Break attachment for these things but they are 40$ + and not even guaranteed to fix the issue...

  • @egemenegemenegemen
    @egemenegemenegemen 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    THANK YOU.

  • @dosdont
    @dosdont 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Interesting, thanks

  • @hammerfallen12345
    @hammerfallen12345 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    If that's not a different nozzle from what i'm using i would say this clip is mirror image 😂 Maybe it is correct but i'm still wondering 😁 You are tightening in left direction. I think this is the selfie camera 😊 It dose not matter...I check most often when people turn bolts because many people turn the wrong way. It's a work injury I have 😂

  • @ygalion
    @ygalion 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    i did it with heated hotend and still leaking,w ill need to retry

  • @kronk4621
    @kronk4621 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    (A nozzle is a 6mm btw)

  • @ramim.5856
    @ramim.5856 ปีที่แล้ว

    you didn't mention the direction of the throat I think it's important!

  • @carlosmares5796
    @carlosmares5796 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Good information from a beautiful woman , much appreciated 🙌🙌🙌