3 Ways To Fix A Kingroon KP3S Hotend Clog (And Prevent Them From Happening)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ม.ค. 2023
- The hot end used on a Kingroon KP3S 3d printer has an 'interesting' design that unfortunately makes clogs very likely to happen.
In this video I'll show you why the clogs happen, how to remove a clog and also give you some tips that I have used to prevent them happening again.
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Ricky, you saved my day! I went with the hardest method, thank you for your tricks for detaching the heat block.
Hey Ricky, this video helped me tremendously. This is my first 3D printer, it clogged on me while I was still trying to level the bed. I can't imagine a world where I would have been able to remove the clog without your support. Incredible work, keep it up!
Awesome, really glad it helped👍
Just used this video to help fix a clog on my KP3S, thanks for all the tips!
Hey Ricky, you helped me with your videos multiple time by now, Thank you so much.
Thank you for this guide, it helped me a lot!
Something I noticed when I dissasembled my hotend (during my first clog no less) is that the heatsink has VERY sharp edges both where the filament enters and exits the area right before the "void", these edges slowly grind the filament creating a lot of dust that could potentially clog the nozzle. So I just grabed a phillip screwdriver and gently removed the excess material from those edges until the filament moved smoothly through it.
Great guide! Had it apart and back printing in 30 min 👏
Pretty straightforward video. Just helped me clean up my newbie mistake that clogged up the hot end. Thank you!
I was struggling with clogs for a week now, try to figure out the reason, but you just explained me everything perfectly. Thank. Thanks for the guys for the retraction settings, pretty sure that was the reason. Mine was on 6.5!!! :-) I don't know why. But changed now, will try soon. To be honest, I love this printer. Didn't have problem with it for 2 months. Clogging just started, but thanks guys, hopefully you solved my issue. Ricky, you have a new subscriber. :-)
G'day Ricky, My new KP3s in 4 days, was getting a little worried with all the people on the net saying that they have this blockage trouble, Thanks for taking the pressure off me with your tute, Thanks.
Really helpful, saved my day. Thank you very much
Thank you so much. I was looking for a way to separate the heat throat from the heatsink and here was the answer.
Very helpful video! Thanks a lot!!!
u saved my day thanks
Hey Ricky, I bought this printer because I wanted a smaller unit than what I already had (mega X). Was getting a bit nervous about clogs after watching a few reviews, but after watching this I’m confident it shouldn’t be too much of an issue if it happens.
Really hope that you make a video upgrading the hot end /heat break to get rid of the tubing. Thank you
they designed the hotend that way to make inserting filament go smoothly as the large chamfer will collect the filament end nicely even if its a little bit crooked. The problem is that they thought that this upper portion of the heatsink will stay cool (as it should) and therefore not cause any clogging issues. Apparently thats not the case and even that upper part gets hot enough to melt the filament. There are a couple of ways to fix this. The cleanest way is to buy a different aftermarket heatbreak. Just search for kingroon heatbreak and you´ll find a version with a titanium throat and a copper part that connects to the heatsink. this will not only fix the clogging issue but will enable the printer to print high temperature filaments.
Thanks for your help it helped me a lot...
Thank you a LOT Rick, very helpfull video, can success a hard clog nozzle with your guide!!! many, many thanks man... Keep doing videos like this... I appreciate it...
Great vid!
This did not talk about how to avoid the clogs. Great video though. I have several Kingroons with same head and never figured out until this, why they clog ALL THE DAMN TIME. Thanks for the info. your videos are great.
so much thanks
Saludos desde España. Me quedo por tu canal, pues me interesa mucho esta impresora y tu trabajo. Gracias por ofrecernos tu sabiduría, y tu tiempo. Y esperando a que publiques más vídeos de esta impresora
Gracias por tu apoyo. Siga mirando, tengo videos para esta impresora próximamente.
Hotends always end up being clogged for some reason, I've had all kinds of designs, from the Geeetech ones, Ender, MK8, V6 etc... (not the very expensive ones though) all end up being clogged, its frustrating and its time consuming but what blows my mind is that one of the most popular hotend, the V6 has a round design that makes it rotates by itself while printing..very practical...I can't believe after all these years, 3D printers are getting better screens, are more user friendly etc...but the hotends still have the same flaws and the same designs.
Thanks dude it helped a lot, I didn't had any clog at least when I started watching the video I only wanted to dismantle my extruder to check wich parts buy extra parts. When I got to the tube part I test it with the two nuts it came out I measure the pice and just out of curiosity tried to see what would come out.... An enormous clog of filament came out 😢 I just decided to also clean the tube by heating it and just re armed everything together.
Sounds like you had a clog waiting to happen! Glad you caught it👍
Hello Ricky, this video also helped me to remove a clog. I was about to send back the machine because the dissamble looked painful and dangerous. I want to say to newbies that it's not such a big deal, i removed everything carefuly without heating anything and pushed the remaining filament that wont melt with a small allen key. Now i'm looking for Prusa slicer profiles as the one you"ve linked are for the pro version... Thanks a lot !
its the same hot end as the 'Pro' version FYI to anyone reading this. Just change the bed size in the slicer and save the setting. The rest (mainboard, extruder) is identical
look into the ender hotend fix. ive got a couple machine that came with v6 hotends, clones i assumed but ive never had a clog on any of them out of almost 6 yrs of use, had partial clogs an had to change nozzles but never had a heatbreak clog on one of the v6 hotend, now for my mk8 style hotend from enders, ive had those clog on ender 3 5 3max aquila pretty much every printer u can have them on ive had them clog. i just got a couple kp3s and kp3s pro really cheap an they both are like new machines. both was sent back an i purchased them as parts only machines but both look like they are brand new an if used was only used once maybe twice. the kp3s was missing the leadscrew so i had to replace that but the kp3s pro was a complete machine an is like new but i notice when setting it up a little piece of filament sticking out the top of the extruder like it was clipped off just above so i figured it was clogged. so this will be my first clogged v6. ive got a couple extra v6 hotends that ive purchased an played with so i know how they come apart but i didnt expect this to be an issue with them. but for a fix im going to try to replace the ptfe lining in the heat break with a longer piece so it will meet closer to the top of the hotend. ive not used one setup in a direct drive configuration so that will be something i have to pay little more attention to but im sure the same type of fix will work with these v6 hotend as the mk8 hotends.
I have two KP5L and one Ender 3 with Kingroon's DD extruder, and never had a single clog while printing (I had a clog when intalling the extruder to the Ender 3, but it was caused by a mistake I made). I think that gap you mention is present in most extruders with threaded throats. I use about 1mm retraction, and it seems suficient to reduce stringing. I would suggest you to check if there is something wrong with the heatbreak's fan. Maybe it's rotation is bellow the specs and it is causing the heatbreak to work hotter than it should be. The stock heatbreak's fans are not very good, I had ratling problems with them (had to dismantle and lubricate).Great video! PS: For those not familiarized with Kingroon products, basically these extruders I cited are the same as KP3S's.
Good to hear your experience, thanks. Yes, I can see how the hotend fans could be a little below par.
In Cura, with this style hotend, I found reducing retraction down to 0.5mm at 25 to 30mm/s reduces the amount of clogs, down to nearly zero. Also helps immensely with zits, or as the cousins over the waters call them, "Boogers!!".
Thanks, yes reducing the retraction does seem to help.
hi, could you please tell me which settings exactly you have changed in Cura (the names) ? thanks
@@marcinwee5278 In the TRAVEL section, check the enable retraction box, and then change retraction distance and retraction speed.
@@imranrazaq632 thanks mate
Great video. I can say that on my Kingroons the clog has only occurred after removing filament to change it to a new spool. Not sure how to reduce that but if you have any tips that’d be great. Thanks again for the video.
I think a video on a general extruder upgrade (like a dual gear) for any printer, would be great too.
There isn't anything wrong with the Titan clone extruder i think. It's not high performance, but neither is this printer. I would not change it. It's weakness is the weird coldend/hotend combination. I have a V6 clone on order ...
@@citronski Nice - I look forward to the new video!
Ricky, two questions:
1. Does the hot end in the KP3S Peo have the same flaw, and
2. What hot end would you recommend using as a replacement?
great video, right on the money!!! thanks for demystifying those clogs for me! They usually happened when I would run out of filament, now I know why - filament melts over inside heat sink and blob is formed - exactly in the place that you described. After I watched your video I verified that blob was formed and that would prevent the filament from extruding.
Was anyone able to find a drop in replacement heat sink assembly? Would some form of e3d clone be able to resolve this issue for good?
It also has a PTFE lined tube that could be burned and needs to be replaced. Anything at 240 could melt and warp the tube. :( I would only really print PLA up to 210 on those.
are put filamen and remove must be on hot position? after print filament must be removed?
Please help! Does the original thermal break have M7 threads on the hot side and M6on the cold side?
I swapped it out for a genuine E3D v6 with a bi-metal heat brake and a CHC I've never had this type of extruder setup before I initially wanted to try with a BMG but I found a kit for my ender 3 on Ali. Was kind of horrified when I looked at the hot end. Kind of surprised it uses mk8 nozzles.
Hey there. Someone knows where can I buy the hotend? Or just how can I find it? I don’t know the model of the hotend for my kingroon kp3s
Overall I did learn a couple of things from this video but I don't have as much trouble with clogs as you say you had. I still use Cura. I only use PLA and TPU. You never mention the shut down procedure. I always make sure the hotend has cooled to below 60 degrees before shutting the printer off. I beleave that if one removes power when the hotend is still hot there is a chance of heat creeping up bast the heatbreak and causing a clog.
Hi, i'm glad you haven't had the same problems. I did consider heat soak as a factor but all of the clogs I had happened while everything was still powered with the hot end fan running. Thanks for the comment, definitely need to be considered.
Mine clogged after the first print.. It's my 6th 3D printer, first Kingroon tho
4th way, a small eletrical screedriver with a 1.5mm drill bit from top of the heatbrake. Dismount the whole hotend from the extrusor, don't disassembly and also cold, keep in your hand and from top hole do a small pressure with drill bit on slow rotation, rising pressure bit by bit the material get drilled. Simple and easy my KPS Pro S1 works again.
Hello. It helped me a lot and solved the cloging. I checked the google drive in description. There are 2 folder for Cura and Prusa. Does it mean, the profile setting also available for Cura? Or only for Prusa? Sorry for asking, im new at 3d printing. 😊
I couldn't get any of the Cura profiles to load so I just used the Prusa ones. I haven't looked at them for a while and you may have more joy than me if they've updated in the mean time.
❤ your video, helps me alot, but i got another problem, after reassemble the hotend. it not heats up whenever i turn on the power. it doesn't stop. even i didn't change the temp. i am running klipper
Hi, this will be something in your printer config file. It will be heater or thermistor pins specified incorrectly. Where did you find the config file information?
Hi, could you please help me with my kp3s pro s1. It keeps and getting clogged in the heatbreak and I don't know what to do. Please get back to me.
So I have alot of clogs and was wondering if you or anyone else here can link me with a good replacement for the hotend? One with a better design that doesn't clog as easily? Thanks alot in advance!
Hey I need help my printer was on and then is just started to beep rapidly and turned off
Hi Ricky, Im a long time viewer and Im having problems with bed leveling that I dont think you have adressed yet because your guides focus on features that my printer does not have. After purchasing my ender 5 s1 I've been having problems with leveling my bed. I manually level and when I do this I have to fully tighten the back right adjustment and practically fully loosen my front left adjustment. This is my first concern as this doesn't feel right to me. Once I get it level and then use the auto level it works fine... for about a day. I have to redo this process nearly every day. The front left side always seems to be too far away when this happens. I am not putting force on my bed in any way. I am also not even talking off the build plate. I need help I have no idea what's wrong. I would try to use nuts to lock the screws but there isn't even enough thread on the front left screw to fit a nut on.
Hi, I'd love to help but I don't have an Ender 5. What your printer does have though, is 4 point leveling. It's not ideal as it is possible for one screw to always be too lose if the others are tighter. Try to start with all of the 4 screws giving the same tension to the springs. Some advise tightening them all fully then loosening from there but I prefer to set all springs with zero 'pre-load' which is where the adjuster knob is only just starting to 'grab' and tension the spring before I start tramming. To get there, loosen all adjusters fully first. Once you have this starting point, try to always adjust two screws at a time along a side. For instance, to set some tension in the springs, I would wind the same amount on both fronts and then both rears, I never do large adjustments on just one corner.
Once you have roughly equal tension on each corner, then you can start looking at making adjustments to get the bed parallel to the nozzle movements (tramming). If you need to adjust more than about 1mm then try to again adjust a whole side rather than just one corner. If you are able to do this, you should be able to get your bed trammed whilst also keeping good tension on all springs. Really hope this helps.
an easier but riskier manoeuvre (what I do) is set the temp to 200 and jam something in the heatsink fan... wait for the heat too creep up to the heatsink (3-4 minutes), then tug the filament every few seconds until it pops out. No disassembly required. BUT you may start a fire or melt a fan :)
I effectively tried this by just unclipping the fan from the hotend and heating everything up to max temps but it still wouldn't clear for me.
hi Ricky, do you have experience with TPU filament. i'm trying to push filament out of extruder, but it seems stuck in the middle. while if PLA, it can passthrough to extruder. i'm using 95A. thank you
Yes, I've printed TPU quite a lot with my KP3S. The only time I had the problem you have is when I had the filament 'donut' stuck in the hot end.
in cura part cooling is 100% even with abs... maybe this cause the clogging and in prusa slicer dont have this problem
Saved my printer’s ass
This keeps happening to me.. Ordred a E3D V6 to replace the stock one..
HI , is it working well for you?
Why not just keep the extruder hot after printing and just let the excess plastic drip out?
It doesn't get hot enough even without the fan unfortunately.
lol.they should include a hotgun!
It definitely felt like that after my third time removing a clog!
I solved this by switching to an all-metal break 😁
Hi, which one did you use? I haven't replaced mine yet.
@@RickyImpey I've tried to reply to your question but can't make it stick. I will send to email listed on "About" page
Ricky: Sorry to contact you this way. I subscribe to 30+ channels and your channel's sound level is about 1/3 of all the others. Not sure why. Delete this comment at will.
his sound is great. Smooth and relaxing as his tone of voice. Really enjoy it
Thanks for the feedback. I've just clicked through a few channels and this video does sound a little quieter. I set my sound levels where pros recommend, I think unfortunately that a lot of others set their sound at higher levels so it makes mine sound quiet. I'll give it some more attention in my next edits.
This uploader doesn’t know what he’s talking about he’s not got a faulty heatbreak just purposely set this up for a video.