Prusa MK3S Hotend Blob of Doom Repair (Common Failure) 3DPD 3D Printer Repairs
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 เม.ย. 2024
- Here's how I fix a common failure on the Prusa i3 MK3S.... the dreaded glob of doom.
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#3DPD #3DPrintedDebris #3DPrinterFarmRepairs - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
best vid yet, had to do just that
Good commentary but would have been 100x more useful if we could see what you were doing at less than 100mph !
Really, you want to see every step in real time? I always thought those videos are so boring.
@@3DPrintedDebris Ha! you are probably right! Sometimes they can help a lot though and you are making it for others - not yourself presumably?
That breakdown is exactly what I’m looking for. I wish it was close up and normal speed. We can always skip ahead ourselves if needed.
@@3DPrintedDebrisThis video is an excellent overview. What it seems many are looking for is closer, more detailed filming of the work to fix the issue. My suggestion would be to film with no audio, do a voice over and maybe quiet backtrack that can go up in volume a bit during b-roll
Would be interesting to see, how you slice some of your products or at least some difficult to print ones… great content!
Great idea!
Been there done that ,the problem is if you have melted a component of the extruded housing, now you dont have a functional printer to print the new part, i had to actually order one from Prusa which took a while. Now I printed extra extruder components and keep them handy for the next meltdown. Larry
I keep a full printer's worth of spares just in case, and then print the replacement with the repaired machine.
I actually didn't realize you could disassemble the extruder without removing it from the rails. I had a blob like this a few months back. I had already printed out the parts for a Pit Stop upgrade, so it ended up being a lucky opportunity.
Yep, I think there are only 4 screws holding the entire extruder to the x carriage.
Hi again. Looked at the description to see if you listed it there, what is an “acid brush”?
Here you go: Acid Brushes: amzn.to/3zPat8d
HOW the heck TH-cam reccommend me THIS exact video right AFTER i dealt with a Blob of Doom with my machine? (took me over 5 hours to clean everything and go through calibration routine)
You tube is always listening.....
I would love to see a video on your Ender 3's! Showing any mods you've done to make them print farm ready. Also comparing them against the Prusa's in terms of best value for money. You can buy Ender 3's with fast shipping for $200. It's a tough decision!
Coming soon!
@@3DPrintedDebris Awesome! Can't wait
Not even close, the Ender 3 beats the MK3S hands down. I have both, and I hate the Prusa. IMO the V6 hotend is literal hot garbage, I don't why filament sticks to it so much
Thank you
You're welcome
Been there. Only I damaged the thermistor wire...
Yeah, not fun. I haven't had any instances since switching to WhamBam PEX plates.
I'm switching the thermistor wire too and having a really hard time loostening the 1.5mm themistor bolt, might be some pla in there, any tips? I can't heat up the nozzle since the thermistor isn't working
Do these silicone socks really work?
I use them mostly for temperature isolation and regulation. I know people tout the ease of cleaning, but that hasn't been the case for me at all.
This happened to me :( completely destroyed my extruder
That SUCKS!
Prusa needs to get to a point where it is "Honda" fixable, not "Chrysler" fixable.
I have to hear this one.... what is Chrysler fixable? 🤣
@@3DPrintedDebris If you ever owned a Chrysler and worked on it you would know, for example if your headlight burns out you need to remove the front end. Lol
@@lindsmith211 LOL, yeah, that's about right.
Why is this such a common problem on the MK3S? This is just BS considering how much they cost
I believe the latest prusa firmware has added a temp profile model that once calibrated should notice that the print head is getting increasingly insulated by the blob of doom.
It's less common for me since switching to PEX plates from WhamBam.