How to Prep Your Gunpla: Removing Nub Marks and Other Surface Imperfections [Tutorial]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 พ.ค. 2024
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In this video I go over in-depth technique on how I like to remove gunpla parts from runners; as well as tips and tricks on removing nub marks plus other surface imperfections.
(DISCLAIMER: Some of the below links are affiliate links via Amazon. Making purchases through these links helps me make a small, but highly appreciated commission.)
TOOLS FEATURED IN THIS VIDEO:
Tamiya Sharp-Pointed Side Cutter (affiliate link): amzn.to/3pJawlg
DSPIAE ST-A 2.0 Single Blade Nipper (affiliate link): amzn.to/3DaN97c
Tamiya Modeling Knife w/ Blades (affiliate link): amzn.to/44lpvRc
OLFA Spare Blades (affiliate link): amzn.to/3YvjnDP
Tamiya Sandpaper Sets (affiliate link): amzn.to/3OBL8GC
Tamiya Sanding Sponge Set (affiliate link): amzn.to/3NJONlb
Thin Sanding Sticks (affiliate link): amzn.to/46IzLon
Harbor Freight 10pc Needle File Set: www.harborfreight.com/needle-...
Double-Sided A2 Size Cutting Mat (affiliate link): amzn.to/3pMIo0z
TIMESTAMPS:
00:00 Intro
00:50 Parts Removal (Standard Way)
04:10 Parts Removal (Two-Cut Technique)
05:52 Parts Removal (Rambo Style)
08:01 Nub Mark Removal
09:12 Nubs on Flat Surfaces
13:38 Nubs on Curved Surfaces
15:48 Nubs Between Features/Halves/Tight Spots
20:03 Removing Other Surface Defects
23:21 Outro
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This is a great guide with clear, well-shot presentation and a lot of useful information. I absolutely wish I had been able to find a guide this helpful when I was first starting out getting into the hobby a few months back.
As someone who's still intimidated by doing my own painting, I've found that starting with 800-1000 grit to sand nubs down, moving to 2000 grit to smooth things out, then finishing off with 3000 grit (and possibly a little shining with a non-abrasive sponge afterward as needed) is what consistently allows me to restore the plastic to its natural slightly shiny finish without the need for paint or primer.
I had wanted to ask about two issues I've run into that weren't addressed in this video. First, I've found that oftentimes gates (and therefore nubs) are placed on thin bezels on the outer edge of a part. This is good overall because they're generally less noticeable, but it can make it hard to sand down particularly stubborn nubs/stress marks/knife mistakes without messing up the thin line of that bezel. Do you have any tips in that regard?
The second issue I run into as a perfectionist is after I've perfectly sanded down a nub to be flush with no stress marks... but still find that there's a dark spot of discoloration where the plastic was injected in the mold. Is this something that's even fixable without painting? i.e. can you simply sand deep enough to get to non-discolored plastic, or is that just not feasible?
As far as not losing bevels, I think you're on the right track starting with higher grits. Its also good to shave that nub down with the knife so that you can start close to flat as possible before sanding. Those particular placements can be tricky. Polishing up to glossy plastic though can often lead to oversanding. Its usually why i stop at 800 and just paint or topcoat. As far as those marks from the gates; those remnants of it will inevitably remain in some way, on raw plastic builds especially; even after polishing it super glossy. When I used to do more straight builds, it didnt really bother me. I guess it just depends on how much you care about the aesthetics. And to be honest most arent super noticeable to the untrained eye. It probably looks great. I would say dont get too hung up on it. From one perfectionist to another, enjoy the process. I rarely make anything without some minor defect here and there.
Also, im glad you found the guide helpful, and thank you for the kind words.
I'm new to Gunpla and this was one of my major headaches. I'm working on my 4th kit and I really wanted to start getting the nub removal and sanding down. I don't plan on painting anytime soon so this vid was perfect for me. You have a new subscriber.
Easily the most informative video I've seen when it comes to nub marks and stuff. I built a Deathscythe MG as my first kit a day ago and I had the misfortune if being so full of myself and assembled it all while a lot of nub marks are still on it, lmao. Anyway, I'll do my best to sand the visible nub marks and eventually top coat it. Lastly, you earned yourself a subscriber.
This is the best video I've seen on the topic of nub removal and sanding for beginners. You definitely need more views.
Thank you for the kind words!
The one thing I wish I had or knew about when starting, is how amazing a good quality glass file helps! Also how amazing sanding sponges are for curved pieces.
I have just used glass files recently and they are very convenient for certain areas
such a good video! I was very surprised to see the size of your channel, this is excellent stuff
I have some notes..
First - Safety 3rd.. always (kidding, it should be above first),
B) That is a mighty nice back log!
3rd) Safety.
and lastly, This was a great video with a ton of excellent Info. Cant wait for the next one.
Thanks Josh! Definitely more vids coming!
Thanks for the tips! Ive done a few kits but now looking to up my game. I ordered some replacement blades, sanding sponges, and some other things. I can't wait to make my kits look better than ever!
Im glad to be of service! Love to see it!
For part removal, one thing that I learned a while ago is that it might be worth it to grab the largest ziplock bag you can get and do the work with the sprue you're working on inside the bag...especially with smaller pieces. A clear bag because you need to be able to see through it, but it also prevents a lot of things like tension throws of parts. Most of the larger bags are heavy enough that blades don't easily pass through them unless you push directly against it, and the bag means that you don't have pieces flying everywhere.
Interesting. Ive always just put them into sorting trays. Never heard of this.
@@plamomancer I'm not talking about sorting, it's more of preventing situations where there's still enough tension in the sprue that clipping it might launch the piece off of your desk or work surface, leaving you to need to hunt it down and hopefully find it wherever it ends up.
I'd started that with some wargaming minis that had the same issue, and those are a lot softer plastic with less tension in it compared to the gunpla plastics.
@@AzraelThanatos i might have to try this. Started some minis recently and have admittedly lost bits to the carpet monster.
I would like to say, using a Glass file as well over a metal file can leave a nice sheen behind since it's more pealing away the plastic then scratching it off. I use Gunprimers Raser but even some cheaper ones do a decent job.
great video i just started buildiing so i wll be following you for sure
When trimming the nubs on sandwiched pieces I don't even bother sanding them until I've welded the seam with cement. Saves me the trouble of sanding the part twice.
Thats how I usually do it too. Ill be going over plastic cement in a seperate video.
Really great video. Lots of how tos kind of gloss over stuff or, honestly, take it all so seriously. This was really clear and approachable.
Thank you!
Great video! very helpful!
Im glad you found it helpful!
Clear video for eradicating all the nubs on your plamo 👍
Thank you!
Very nice and informative video. I subscribed.
Thank you!!
this video is super helpful. thank you
You're welcome!
Awesome video. Been looking for a good nub removal video. This should have more views! Keep it up. Also love the Rambo clips =]
I didn’t even know single bladed nippers where a thing !
They had some godhand ones in my local store was tempted but they where nearly £60 DX
Sanding is a bothersome yet enjoyable work :)
Agreed!
I personally use nanoglass files in conjunction with my God Hand nippers to remove nubs pretty easily. The DSPIAE siren, and the gunprimer raser 2 are my particular goto Glass files. I tend to like glass files much better than metal ones, and even sand paper, since they do not leave harsh abrasion marks on the plastic and gives a slight sheen to them that can easily be removed via a buffing stick. However, a tip for all who use these nanoglass files in particular. The best way to clean away the excess plastic powder built up on the file that you rubbed away is to use some scotch tape and pull away all the powder in one pass. I used a toothbrush at first, but as a PSA ... don't be me. Don't breath in microplastic bro, it's not fun. I personally think that using one of these glass files will significantly be a great alternative to whoever may not be completely comfortable with a hobby knife yet. They have certainly helped me.
Ive recently picked up a couple to try. I may have to do a seperate video to showcase them. Really liking the results and time saving. I didnt know about the scotch tape trick to clean them! Ill have to try this.
Great tutorial, I will deffo follow along on my next build. Have u ever done brush painting in a kit ?
Yes. My Turn A Gundam Diorama.
Oh, wait so you telling me i could habe use nippers instead of chew away the plastic of the parts?
Teach me the ways of the DARK ARTS!!! *Arnold voice* Common DO IT!
Good shit. Would have been useful as hell to me when I started a couple years ago.
Thank you! Im glad you liked the video.
Would you be willing to provide tips on removing plastic flash?
I briefly go over this when i talk about removing mould lines. Its essentially the same as flash. Start with hobby knife and finish with your choice of files/sanding twigs/abrasives.
Honestly. Glass file, all day every day. Only tool I use now.
It’s like rough grit sand paper that leaves a surface so shiny it’s better than the mold itself. Every piece I have now has nub marks that look better than the rest of the plastic.
I started using glass files recently myself, total game changer and time saver for general assembly. I still do the traditional way depending on the nub but I also fully paint my kits so definitely depends on your style
Quick tip, if you want to speed up the cleaning process, just cut the part directly off the runner with a nipper if that part won't be seen anyway. Like for example on 3:33, it's just a joint piece that won't ever be seen so there's no need to spend extra time cleaning it
True. And yes I know this. Saves time definitely. I was just using the part for example. Beginners need to know the basics. But good point!
I find that part of the pragmatic approach is to study the guide enough to preemptively identify parts that will never be shown. Hence don't bother de-nubbing :D
@@glui2001 You already develop that knowledge without even opening up the manual after the 40th kit
going chaos side : using nail nipper instead
can u do tutorial top coat next ?
absolutely.
Nub marks guide for titanium finish gundams?
Oof. Thats a tricky one there. I personally dont like those coated kits because of that reason. Nub marks are pretty impossible hide and sanding will probably make it worse. You can try color matching to hide the mark with markers/paint but thats also very difficult. I find it better to just strip and repaint it, but you can just the regular version of the kit and paint it "titanium" finish. But yeah thats my take. If I get my hands on one and find a better way ill possibly do a vid. Sorry I cant be more helpful on that specifically.
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